Monday, June 29, 2020

Taste of the Week. Yum Gelato's Raspberry Sorbeto

Taste of the Week.
Yum Gelato's Raspberry Sorbeto

How about a summer treat to brighten up these Covid days? Yum Gelato has just the job. 

Our latest Taste of the Week is Raspberry Sorbeto. An amazing concentration of real flavour in a cool tub of Italian style ice-cream made right here in Cork by Marcus Hodder. 

We added a few loganberries from the back garden (before the blackbirds could take them), spooned on the sorbet. Yummy! We could have been at the counter of the World Ice-cream Champion in San Gimignano.

Marcus has a whole range of flavours and they keep changing. Favourites stay around and new ones are added. They are widely available. I got mine in Bradley's, North Main St., Cork.

Yum Gelato also caters for private functions, weddings, confirmations & other events. Call Marcus at 086 884 1222 or check his Facebook https://www.facebook.com/yumgelatocork/

Sunday, June 28, 2020

Glad I Got The Glass Curtain At Home

Glad I Got The Glass Curtain At Home


From Thursday next, MacCurtain Street’s Glass Curtain will be welcoming the public back into their lovely new (more or less) restaurant. Like many others these past few months, they have been serving up dishes via a call and collect system and I’m glad I gave it a try at the weekend. It was superb and also that bit different.

Golden goujons
Their Friday menu offered: Fish Tacos - Panko breaded cod, pico de gallo, sweetcorn salsa, shredded cabbage, flour tortillas, bravas potatoes with lime chipotle aioli, fish skin chicharrones. Dessert was White chocolate and strawberry iced parfait. All for €40.00 for two people. Actually portions were quite generous and we had more than enough.

Cotton Ball Beers were available too and they also suggested a wine off their list: the lovely Verdejo by Bodegas Menade. And there was also the offer of their Pineapple Mezcal Margarita from the cocktail list. The drinks on the Saturday night were along the same lines with a Tempranillo from Castilla instead of the Verdejo. That red would have paired well with BBQ Brisket, house slaw, jalapeƱo cornbread, mac n’cheese  for two. Dessert: Chocolate chip cookies salted caramel sauce. On both nights, the Veggie Option was Veggie Tacos Panko.

In our case, there was, of course, a little bit of cooking to be done. The tortillas had to be rolled out and cooked in the frying pan while the patatas bravas were heated up in the oven. Simultaneously, the goujons were frying in oil, turning golden in no time. Indeed, the whole thing was ready in about 15 minutes.

Dessert
And then we tucked into the feast, assembling the tacos with a bit of everything, the shredded crunchy white cabbage, the delicious grilled corn salsa and the tasty pico de gallo. The eight large goujons were top notch, the cod was a glistening white wrapped in its slightly spicy coating. No shortage of spicy bits but nothing too extreme once mixed in, not even the chipotle aioli and excellent spuds. And those fish skin chicharrones also added to the ensemble. Haven't had cod skin close to this since we enjoyed one on a baked white onion in Nerua, the Michelin starred restaurant in the Guggenheim in Bilbao.

Very happy with the Glass Curtain mains and we allowed a decent gap before tackling the dessert which had been in the freezer. And there was no letdown here either with the big tub of White chocolate and strawberry iced parfait. Very enjoyable and plenty of it, indeed so much that we left close to half for the following day!

The restaurant opened last December. Brian Murray and his team were doing very well indeed as we found on our January visit (check it out here). And then Covid put in a full stop. No wonder, they’re “delighted to be welcoming the public back into the restaurant from Thursday 2nd July. We will be starting with limited availability to ensure all possible steps are taken to protect patrons and staff alike.”  You may book your table now by visiting their website and clicking the reservations button here.

* Must say that our At Home (or Call & Collect) offerings over the past few weeks have all top notch. We stayed pretty local as we collected from Greene's, Micro's, and the Glass Curtain. Good Day Deli delivered and their offering was also of the highest quality. Best of luck to all the restaurants opening up this week. And do look out too for Call & Collect as these could well continue for some time to come.

Friday, June 26, 2020

Amuse Bouche

A young swan, neck curled and beak resting on her wing, lay on the gleaming silver. Surrounding the cygnet were medallions of meat soaked in black sauce……
‘My goodness, the talent of your cook. It looks still alive.”
We had never eaten swan before. Alice was showing her guests that she was as good as royal, heeded no churchman’s law, and neither should they.

from Her Kind by Niamh Boyce (2019). Highly Recommended.

Wednesday Walk on Corrin Hill

Wednesday Walk on Corrin Hill
Near Fermoy. 24th June 2020
Never very much colour in this wood. These "Foxgloves" are nearing the end of their display

Cuckoo Spit. That was our name (last century!) for this foamy stuff

A watery web on the briar





Fermoy, between the hill and the mountains


Looking NE (approx)


Looking south

See the motorway in middle of bottom half

Black Boar, Black Tower, JJ Corry. And more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #9

Black Boar, Black Tower, JJ Corry. And more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #9

Barrel Aged Black Boar and Barrel Aged Heather Ale Release
White Hag have finished packaging the Bourbon barrel aged Black Boar, and in a sign of the times this is the first time we have ever canned this beer. It will be available in a 330ml can.

In addition, our Beann Gulban Barrel aged Heather Sour is also being released. Having been packaged a number of weeks back, it has been bottle conditioned to perfection. It is available in a 375ml bottle, with cork and cage.  Read more here.

The JJ Corry Experience

Ireland's first modern Whiskey Bonder, J.J. Corry Irish Whiskey, has announced it will open its doors to guests from July 6th on their farm in Cooraclare. Pre-Bookings can be made now at www.jjcorry.com/experience.  The tour is strictly for over 18's but Dogs of any age on leads are welcome. Spaces are strictly limited and due to social distancing rules are by appointment via the website only.  



Spring into summer with Black Tower!

If you're lusting after just the right bottle for these sunny days and balmy nights, look no further. World-famous German wine brand, Black Tower is releasing a gorgeous limited-edition bottle for the warmer months. Adorned with delicate anemones, Black Tower Fruity White is sure to be a crowd pleaser at picnics and BBQs alike. 

Set to be this year's pick of the whites, Black Tower Fruity White is singing with flavour. Bursting with hints of fresh pineapple and lime flavours, Black Tower Fruity White is also great for washing down spicy chicken tacos or a sweet pork and chilli stir fry.
Widely available including Dunnes, Tesco, Supervalu,retailers nationwide, priced at €8.


Red Nose Wine - New Opening Hours
More details here on the hours, plus take a browses through all those lovely wines that Gary has lined up for the coming months.

Kinsale Mead Opens for Tours Again Mon 29th

Curious about Mead? Planning a Day Trip or Staycation to Kinsale?

Kinsale Mead Co. has been a hive of activity recently getting ready to re-open for their popular meadery tours and tastings on Monday 29th June. They are following the latest guidelines so their visitors can experience the tour safely. More details here


Cork Hotel Manager Honoured With Prestigious National Award

Cork Hotel Manager Honoured With Prestigious National Award

Cork’s Carrigaline Court Hotel are re-opening their doors with a spring in their step as they were honoured with three prestigious Irish Hotel Awards earlier this week, with general manager Jerry Healy (above) scooping the coveted national Hotel Manager of the Year Award.

The hotel, which will open its doors to the public again on Monday June 29th, also came out on top in two other categories, with Cosmin Trip winning the national award for Kitchen Porter of the Year, while Kate Goulding won Receptionist of the Year in the Munster region.

General manager Jerry Healy said the hotel were thrilled to have received the awards in advance of re-opening, and were very excited to welcome guests back to the hotel.

He said: “I’m delighted to have received the award and I see it as a recognition to the entire hotel team and the service they provide to our guests.

“We are very excited about reopening the hotel to both visitors and guests of our bar and restaurant and we’d like to extend our sincere thanks to all of our staff for working with us to help us get ready to open our doors again.”

The hotel will be opening in line with Government recommendations, with accommodation stays welcomed.

Collins Bar and the Bistro Restaurant will both re-open and residents and non-residents will once again be able to enjoy fresh morning pastries, breakfast, lunch and dinner at the hotel.

In line with current Government restrictions, the bar will only be able to host guests that wish to avail of food offerings on a table service basis. Guests will be encouraged to reserve a table in advance by contacting 021 4852100.

Mr Healy also said that the hotel was committed to keeping guests safe as a priority and have been working behind the scenes on developing new safety and hygiene practices known as the ‘Stay Safe’ approach.

He said this approach was taken to provide additional reassurance to guests:

“Perspex screens have been erected at the reception desk upon check-in, we also have a number of hand sanitiser stations on the premises. We have also enhanced our cleaning procedures and have introduced a one-way walking route to manage the flow of people, along with numerous other measures,”

“All staff have also been provided with the latest up-to-date training and information through the Staff Education Programme,” he added.

“To celebrate our reopening, the hotel is offering 20% off accommodation for stays across the Summer.” Mr Healy concluded.

Press release.

Thursday, June 25, 2020

Gleeson’s Roscommon win another prestigious award. Great boost leading up to post-COVID opening

Gleeson’s Roscommon win another prestigious award
Great boost leading up to post-COVID opening 
Eamonn, Cait and Mary Gleeson.

Gleeson’s Roscommon has just been awarded the HotelsCombined Recognition of Excellence Award for 2020. This award is a recognition for consistently achieving the highest standards of customer satisfaction worldwide. The boutique townhouse hotel achieved an outstanding score of 9.1 out of 10 based on customer reviews from the Australian-based hotel price comparison website. 
“We are absolutely thrilled with this news”, said Cait Gleeson, General Manager and daughter of founders Eamonn and Mary Gleeson, “We pride ourselves on giving a really personal service to our guests and an award like this, based on guest reviews, is a wonderful endorsement of our staff.” This award is a recognition for consistently achieving the highest standards of customer satisfaction worldwide
“We are thrilled to be working with the best hotels in the Ireland. Gleeson's Roscommon has proven its place among them with this award and its commitment to providing high-quality services to all guests,” said Melinda Balazs, Hotel Awards Programme Manager at HotelsCombined. Gleeson's now joins an elite group of hotels around the world that have been awarded the HotelsCombined Recognition of Excellence. 
Looking well!
Gleeson’s is currently closed, like all other hotels and restaurants but the Gleeson’s have not been idle during the lockdown period. They’ve been busy refurbishing the restaurant as well as getting the entire premises ready for post-COVID opening. “As always, our guests are our first priority”, emphasized Eamonn Gleeson, “We’ve been busy making sure we adhere to all guidelines while still keeping that special Gleeson’s experience intact. We’re looking forward to opening and seeing all our friends and customers again.”

Gleeson’s Roscommon, in a listed building dating from 1872, is a well-known cafĆ© and restaurant with period guestrooms. It’s well known for excellent food and hospitality which is underlined by this prestigious new award.
Media release

A Trio Of Interesting Whites To Enjoy. Sancerre. Sauve. Pay D'Oc.

A Trio Of Interesting Whites To Enjoy

J

Jacques-Frelin Sancerre (AOP) 2018, 12.5%, €26.60 Mary Pawle Wines


Sancerre is a small wine district in the Loire Valley, famous for its crisp, aromatic white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc. This one has a light gold colour with a tint of green. The pleasant aromas of this organic wine are both floral and mineral with gooseberry. A bracing acidity makes the taste buds sit up and take notice and what they notice is the apple and pear and citrus flavours, nothing over the top, all’s in balance. 

As it happens, there is a famous goats cheese (Chavignol) in the Loire Valley, a perfect match for the wine, which will also go well with fish and seafood. I’m certain the likes of Ardsallagh and St Tola would also pair well with it. Very Highly Recommended. Serving temperature is 10-12 degrees.

For over thirty years now, Jacques Frelin has been at the forefront of the organic wine movement in France. While organic is often associated with small, this is not the case with Frelin who has vineyards all over the country, in the Languedoc (where he is headquartered), in Gascony, in the Rhone and the Loire.



Fasoli Gino “Borgoletto” Soave (DOC) 2018, 12.5%, €15.55 Mary Pawle Wines


Mary Pawle imports quite a few well-priced wines and this 100% organic Garganega is one of them. It has a light straw colour, a pleasant bouquet both floral and fruity. Fresh and fruity on the palate, quite full-bodied, no shortage of acidity, with a long and dry finish. Highly Recommended.

The producers are also obviously very happy as they say, on the label, that it is “an ode to the terroir”. It is indeed a lovely easy-drinking wine and Fasoli Gino produce more Borgoletto than any other wine in their range. 

Their back label has most of the info you need, nicely and economically laid out: Vino Biologico. Hand picked 100% Garganega. Drink up to three years. And their social media addresses are also listed.

A dry, crisp, fruity white wine, Soave's naturally refreshing appeal led it to phenomenal popularity in the second half of the 20th century (pretty sure it was our wedding wine back in the day!). Wine-Searcher.com say it “is arguably the most famous white wine DOC in Italy”. But I think, most current Irish wine-drinkers would nominate Pinot Grigio as the most famous Italian white.





Domaine de Brau Chardonnay Pays d’Oc (IGT) 2018, 14%, €16.50 Mary Pawle

Colour is a lovely mid-gold. Fairly intense aromas of white fruit and a hint of honey. A pleasant burst of tropical fruit finds it way across the palate, rich and round, with an almost creamy mouthfeel it finishes well with increasing citrus notes. Lightly oaked and organic, this fresh and surprising Chardonnay is Very Highly Recommended. Well priced too and that’s a bonus!

This is made from 100% Chardonnay and fermented and matured in oak. A great food wine! Serve fresh at 10 - 12°C, with white meat, poultry and fish, grilled or in sauce.

Gabriel and Wenny Taris, of Chateau de Brau, are too close to the hard Languedoc ground to get carried way with romantic cliches - it is not sunshine all the way: "Not all vintages are exceptional. There are the weather conditions. And the weeds that we will never overcome. And the little beasts and larger animals who demand their share."

That they share with the little and large of the local animal world gives you the clue that the work here is more in cooperation with nature than against it. 

Kinsale Meadery Tours Reopening Monday June 29th at 1pm

Kinsale Meadery Tours Reopening

 Monday June 29th at 1pm


Curious about Mead? Planning a Day Trip or Staycation to Kinsale?

Kinsale Mead Co. has been a hive of activity recently getting ready to re-open for their popular meadery tours and tastings on Monday 29th June. They are following the latest guidelines so their visitors can experience the tour safely.

“We are really delighted to be welcoming visitors back to the meadery. It’s been way too quiet here for the last few months and we really miss meeting everyone,” said Denis Dempsey, co-founder.

Explore the making and tasting of Mead, the drink of Celtic Ireland’s Kings and Chieftains at Kinsale Mead’s family run meadery. Mead, also known as "honey wine," is believed to be the world's oldest alcoholic drink, dating back to 6500 BC.

During the fun-filled hour you will meet the Mead Makers of Kinsale Mead and hear stories of ancient legends and the colourful history of mead in Ireland. Indulge in a tasting of three different raw honey types while learning about the life of the honeybee. Explore the production area and follow the process of modern mead-making, from fermentation through to maturation and onto bottling. Revel in the opportunity to sample three different award-winning varieties of this ancient drink, with great tips for food pairing and mead cocktails.

The Meadery has been running tours since 2018 and has received a TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence last year. Previous visitors have said the “Informative and fun” tour lead by “Very friendly and knowledgeable” staff is “A must for your trip to Kinsale”.

Tours run at 1pm, 3pm and 5pm. Tickets cost €14 per adult. Please pre-book to guarantee your place at www.kinsalemeadco.ie/kinsale-meadery-tours/ or call 021 477 3538.

Me(a)d-ia Release

Wednesday, June 24, 2020

The Sweetest Wine. Rain, Fog, River combine in Sauternes. The winemaker tells the story.

Rain, Fog, River combine in Sauternes. 
The winemaker tells the story.

Jean-Christophe Barbe is a professor of oenology at the University of Bordeaux, and his specialist area is noble rot, and that was the focus of Tuesday’s Liberty Wines Masterclass via Zoom. He has plenty of first hand experience with this, as he and his family own the 14 hectare estate, ChĆ¢teau Laville, in Sauternes. The ChĆ¢teau Laville Sauternes is a frequent recipient of awards including a Gold at the latest Decanter World Wine Awards – showing Jean Christophe not only has a huge knowledge on the subject of botrytis, he knows how to work with it to create outstanding wines.

When I last visited Sauternes, I actually bought the 2001 vintage of Chateau Laville in the village. That was back in 2014. Things have moved on since then of course. Jean-Christophe reckoned that the best recent vintages were those of 2009 and 2011 with 2010 well up there as well and said his personal favourites are the ’09 and the ’16. “We’ve been lucky, we’ve had lots of good ones over the past 30 years.”

He has been managing the estate for the past 20 years, following five years of working there with his family. Sauternes, as I found out on my visit, is quite a small area, “just five villages” according to Jean-Christophe. The River Ciron is an important factor in the development of botrytis or Noble Rot in Laville (while for other growers, the Garonne is closer). Sauternes is in a slight depression and the river and the regular fog bring “a lot of wetness” and that “fog is powerful for botrytis”. 
The Ciron

But nature needs a helping hand. All that dampness could lead to mould that would just rot the grapes. Jean-Christophe explained: “The wine grower must be clear on the evolution of botrytis as grey mould is not botrytis.” To get the desired Noble Rot, good aeration is required and that can be obtained through judicious pruning and the vines must be properly managed to “have well positioned bunches”.

And then, in the later stages, lots of patience is required. At a certain point, the fruit is ripe enough to make a normal still wine but it will take up to 30 days beyond that and sometimes more before the harvest is completed. And there’s the danger that botrytis could go too far in the riper bunches. Once enough grapes are ready the picking can begin, all by hand, grape by grape, not bunch by bunch (though that may happen in the later stages). A few passes (painstaking picking, berry by berry) are required as grapes will have different maturities. Up to five different pickings are possible.
The 0 is the point (day) at which you'd harvest to make normal white wine. The grapes in the hand show the evolution of
botrytis. The bunch on the right is well advanced.


Where did the love for sweet wine come from? Jean Christophe first told us a “story” that it was born centuries ago when the owner of Chateau d'Yquem went off on a long trip to Russia and gave orders that no wine should be made until he returned. That return was delayed and when he got back to the chateau, the rot was everywhere. But being winemakers, they decided to harvest and were so surprised with the beautiful wine that they decided to wait for the rot every year after that.

“That story is too nice,” laughed Jean-Christophe and then he related the “historical fact”. In the late 17th century, the vineyards were run by tenants and the landlords took their rent in wine and, what’s more, the owner choose the barrels himself. "There is a lot of information on this in writing.”
The bunches here show different stages of botrytis and therefore the need for multiple pickings

After the revolution, there was concerted action by the tenants and that year the harvest was late. The landlords were impressed with the quality of the wine and the price they got for it and they now wished to have wine with a lot of sugar as there was a market for it. That market was between Bordeaux and the Dutch who were indeed looking for sweet wines. So while local conditions made the wine, the market (the Dutch may already have had a taste for sweet wine) allowed it flourish.

Later in the Q&A, Jean-Christophe was asked what did he think of countries who were inoculating the mould to make sweet wines.
“They are perfectly managing their situation, in those areas, they are also able (allowed) to irrigate. But we rely on nature, the river, the fog, the rain."

Another answer revealed that that the industry has problems closer to home. Jean-Christophe: "In France, there has been a drop of 15% in dessert wine consumption as compared to a drop of 30% in overall wine consumption. Often, it is the older drinkers who drink it though the younger people are coming back to it. Some estates are turning to making white wine but at the moment not a very high volume, more a diversification.”
Shot of my 2001 taken in Sauternes in 2014

* My 2001 Laville was one of the very good ones. Here’s what Jancis Robinson had to say about it. “The rain that spoilt the reds encouraged botrytis to such an extent that this is a truly magnificent long-term vintage…..”. So I got lucky when I called to the Maison Du Sauternes in the village and bought four bottles, though just one of the 2001. The helpful man there helped me wade through the catalogue that had many Sauternes on offer, from twelve euro to twelve hundred!


* For a really detailed account of Sauternes, please click here