New names added to the lineup for Inaugural Ballymaloe Festival of Food, 17th - 19th May

New names added to the lineup for Inaugural Ballymaloe Festival of Food, 17th - 19th May

Tulips in May at Ballymaloe House

New names have been added to the interesting and eclectic list of speakers and chefs participating in the inaugural Ballymaloe Festival of Food, running at Ballymaloe from Friday, May 17th to Sunday, May 19th this year. This celebration of 60 years of Ballymaloe House, as Myrtle Allen and her husband Ivan opened The Yeats Room at Ballymaloe back in 1964, with a clear message — one of sustainability, and a return to the roots of that original farm to table movement— with interesting and engaging talks from some key experts, producers and advocates telling the crucially important story of sustainable local food.

Those new additions to the exciting lineup include award-winning food writer, cook and presenter from North London via Greek Cyprus, Georgina Hayden, chef from the Galápagos and co-founder of Firemade, bespoke fire kitchen-makers, Ana Ortiz, and Shivi Ramoutar, Caribbean-London cook and author, described by The Guardian as a “Caribbean food supremo”.      

Also new to the lineup is Mark Anderson, culinary director of Gather & Gather, as well as Bristol-based chef Freddy Bird, an alumnus of Ballymaloe Cookery School, who brings his generous, unpretentious, and relaxed style of cooking from Bristol’s littlefrench and 1 York Place to a pop-up dinner in Ballymaloe House Hotel.

The full programme is available to download on the website, and there are events happening across the Grainstore Kerrygold main stage, the Woodshed Restaurant, Cook the Books stage, the Drinks Theatre, Change We Must stage in the Big Shed, the Food Emporium and special Guest Chef dinners in Ballymaloe House Hotel itself.

     

The Woodshed Restaurant pop-ups include Lee and Kate Tiernan of London’s Black Axe Mangal with Gubbeen’s Fingal Ferguson, as well as JP McMahon of Aniar and Nico Reynolds of Lil’ Portie. Guests on the demo and main stages range from Matt Tebbutt, host of Saturday Kitchen to Ross Lewis, Clodagh McKenna, Aishling Moore of Goldie, Rachel Allen in conversation with Marco Pierre White, Lily Ramirez-Foran of Picado Mexican and many more, including Ali Dunworth, Oisín Davis, Dee Laffan, Niall Sabongi, Michelle Darmody, Madeline McKeever, Graham Herterich and Rory O’Connell.

Speakers in the Big Shed on the Change We Must stage include Barrie Quinn of Portnoo Market Garden, Madeline McKeever from Seed Savers, Lisa Fingleton from Creative Solutions Food & Art and Chris Fahey of Wildflour, among others. Workshops are taking place all over the weekend with Karen O’Donohue of Happy Tummy, Sarah de Brun of Oysome, Laura Pusceddu from Bia Cultures and more.

Ireland’s newest festival will have three jam-packed days of cooking demos, talks, pop-up dinners, walks, producers’ stalls and activities celebrating the journey of good food from the soil and sea to your plate.

With wine tastings and cocktail making, all day dining opportunities featuring the best local and international talent, this weekend focuses too on everything that is great and innovative about modern Irish food. From beekeepers, oyster farmers and cheesemakers to local whiskey distillers and artisan bakers, chefs from around Ireland and the UK will come together for a fantastic weekend of exploration and pleasure. 

Sponsored by the Local Enterprise Office, South Cork, there is also an exceptional list of Irish food, drink and craft vendors at the Ballymaloe Festival of Food, some of the region’s finest artisanal producers, along with wonderful vintage, crafts and garden stalls. Be ready to be inspired and to take a little bit of the festival home with you. 

There’s something for everyone to enjoy throughout the weekend. An enjoyable, engaging and, most of all, delicious few days in the heartland of Ireland’s farm-to-table movement, there will be live music too, and there will definitely be dancing… Get your tickets today!  

Weekend tickets for all three days are €65 per person, individual day tickets on Friday are €20, with Saturday and Sunday tickets for €25 per person, including the Cook the Book Demos, Drinks Theatre, Walks and Talks, Big Shed Stage, Food Producers area, and more. Evening-only tickets on Friday or Saturday evening are €12, and the Woodshed lunches and dinners by guest chefs are €75 and €85 per person respectively. Children under 12 go free. There will be a shuttle bus from Midleton and Ballycotton to the festival and car parking is also free.

Ballymaloe Festival of Food is proudly sponsored by Local Enterprise Office, Cork County Council and Failte Ireland, Cully and Sully and Kerrygold.

See ballymaloegrainstore.com for more.

Highlighting a Lake Garda Gem: Guerrieri Rizzardi Cuvée XV Bardolino Classico

Guerrieri Rizzardi Cuvée XV Bardolino Classico (DOC) 2022, 13.5% ABV.

€15.95 O’Briens Wine 

Highlighting a Lake Garda Gem: Guerrieri Rizzardi Cuvée XV Bardolino Classico 2022

Escape to the picturesque shores of Lake Garda, Italy, with the Guerrieri Rizzardi Cuvée XV Bardolino Classico 2022. This delightful red hails from a region known for its stunning scenery and, of course, its delicious wines. While its neighbour, Valpolicella, may steal the spotlight, Bardolino offers a lighter, equally captivating red waiting to be discovered.

Crafted primarily from Corvina and Rondinella grapes, the lifeblood of Bardolino wines, this DOC Classico boasts a decades-long heritage.  Guerrieri Rizzardi's meticulous approach shines through, with grapes reaching the crusher within ten minutes of picking, maximising freshness – a cornerstone of Bardolino Classico.

Bardolino. Image by Tommy from Pixabay

A Feast for the Senses:

Expect a beautiful light ruby colour that sets the stage for an enticing bouquet of mixed red berries. The first sip unveils a delightful fruitiness, a wine light-bodied and approachable. Delicate tannins and bright acidity create a perfect balance, lingering pleasantly on the finish. Highly Recommended

This versatile red pairs beautifully with an array of lighter fare. Think vegetarian dishes, chicken, turkey, or a delectable charcuterie board.  Imagine enjoying a glass alongside a stunning lakeside view – pure Italian bliss!

A Budget-Friendly Delight:

At €15.95 at O’Briens Wine, the Guerrieri Rizzardi Cuvée XV Bardolino Classico offers exceptional value. So, next time you're seeking a refreshing red that won't break the bank, consider venturing beyond the usual suspects and exploring the charm of Bardolino. After all, sometimes the hidden gems offer the most delightful surprises. If you’re shopping for it and come across a rosé from the same area known as Chiaretto, don’t be shy! One of each, please!

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On the craft trail with Mescan, Western Herd and Bullhouse.

On the craft trail with Mescan, Western Herd and Bullhouse

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Western Herd Blue Jumper IPA, 6.2% ABV, 440 ml can

The bright amber colour and all those little bubbles of this Western Herd IPA is quite a come-on. The beer’s name is apparently a Father Ted reference: “Do you remember when you were drinking Blue Jumper?”

There’s a citrus and tropical fruit presence in the aromatics, plus a hint of pine and resin, even a little dankness as well. And that vibrant hoppy edge continues all the way. After all, as the brewery indicates, India Pale Ale, or IPA is a bigger, hoppier version of a pale ale. 

This one certainly is and that background bitterness is with you right to the finish, quite a good finish as it happens, with the malts having a say in the outcome ensuring that it is not all about the hops. But make no mistake, this a hoppy beer.

Another excellent beer from Western Herd and Very Highly Recommended. 

Brewer’s note on IPA: India Pale Ale, or IPA is a bigger, hoppier version of a pale ale. It is commonly believed that this beer was originally brewed for the East Indian market in the 1800’s, and therefore hopped more heavily and brewed to a higher strength to help preserve the beer’s freshness during the shipping. The colour ranges from pale yellow to amber with a malt flavour meant to balance the firm bitterness and very forward hop flavour

Geek Bits

Style Indian Pale Ale

Colour/Appearance Amber in appearance with a clean white head

Aroma Orange and other citrus, pine, and light peach

Flavour Candied orange and a background bitterness

Hops Citra, Idaho 7, Centennial

Malts Pale, Stout Mix, Caramunich I, CaraPils, White Wheat

Yeast LAX

Original Gravity 1.059

ABV 6.2%

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Mescan Westport Blond, 4.8% ABV, 330ml bottle No 21 Coburg Street 

Our Westport Blond pours a lovely golden colour and is rather hazy with quite an eye-catching white head that tends to linger. First impressions are excellent. And so it continues. Hops are modest but have enough to perfectly balance with the malt flavours and it is harmony all the way (even if the fruitiness is slightly ahead of the bitterness) with this clean, crisp and flavoursome beer, so very well made.

One of the most refreshing beers around, its soft fruit and floral notes combining so well with the modest hops, all getting on very well with the malt in the background. Harmony reigns through the crisp and clean finish. They recommend serving at between four and six degrees - take heed!

Blond or Golden Ales “are the ultimate European session beer and a great opening to the pale ale pathway” according to Craft Beer for the People. Yet many of these are more than easy-drinking and this Westport is one of the outstanding ones.

Very Highly Recommended

This blond was the first beer from Mescan’s Cillian and Bart and has become a firm favourite with the public. Blond beer, with its accessible character, combines well with most dishes. Mescan recommends steaks, burgers, chicken, sausages, also  noodles, pasta Bolognese, and Salade Niçoise.

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Bullhouse Pie Face West Coast Pale Ale, 3.7% ABV, 440 ml can Bradleys

This West Coast Ale from Belfast has a clear mid-gold colour, zillions of micro-bubbles and a soft white head. Hops lead the aromas that include a good streak of dankness. “Classic West Coast hops” have been packed in and the IBUs are “bumped up”. 

Those hops are very evident on the palate which is crisp with notes of pine. In the end though,  this ale is not as satisfying as other examples of the style but should go well enough with the suggested pizza. Excellent Irish examples of the style include Blacks Kinsale Pale Ale and Siege by Western Herd and, internationally, the pioneering Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.

A Hospitality Symposium : Topic - mental health and gender challenges in commercial kitchens

 A Hospitality Symposium

 A Hospitality Symposium : Topic - mental health and gender challenges in commercial kitchens will be held in University of Galway on the 15^th of May. 10am-2pm (Networking coffees from 9am and a light lunch after the event).

 

Deirdre Curran (UOG) is hosting the day and Dr Shelagh Mooney from University of Auckland who also represents Global Hospitality and Research Alliance is the keynote speaker.

 

Hopefully some interesting and thought-provoking discussions will be had on the day.

 

See link to register and there is also a QR code on the flier to register.  Register here!: Topic - mental health and gender challenges in commercial kitchens will be held in University of Galway on the 15^th of May. 10am-2pm (Networking coffees from 9am and a light lunch after the event).

 

Deirdre Curran (UOG) is hosting the day and Dr Shelagh Mooney from University of Auckland who also represents Global Hospitality and Research Alliance is the keynote speaker.

 

Hopefully some interesting and thought-provoking discussions will be had on the day.

 

See link to register and there is also a QR code on the flier to register.  Register here!

The perfect lighter red if you want a smooth and not too heavy Italian. Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano

Avignonesi  Rosso di Montepulciano (DOC) 2019

€25.00 Bubble Brothers. ABV is 13.5%

The perfect lighter red if you want a smooth and not too heavy Italian.

This light ruby Rosso di Montepulciano introduces itself with red and darker berries aromas. It is well-balanced on the palate, lively and smooth, fruity with a touch of spice.  A lively acidity also features as the wine heads towards a pleasant finish. Pretty faultless from start to finalé, this vibrant and approachable red wine from Tuscany is Very Highly Recommended.

As importers and sellers Bubble Brothers say: “This is the perfect lighter red to choose if you're looking for something Italian that's smooth and a little spicy, but not too heavy.” It is one hundred per cent Sangiovese and is also organic. It pairs well with roast meats, meat pies, and strong cheeses.

The wine is aged for nine months in large oak barrels before bottling and then rested for a further three months in the bottle before release.

Avignonesi, founded in 1974, is a leading winery in the Montepulciano area of Tuscany and enjoys a prestigious reputation in the winr world. They are obviously happy with this Rosso: “With its abundant, upfront fruit and bright acidity, Avignonesi’s Rosso di Montepulciano is a typical example of Sangiovese from Tuscany.”

Avignonesi were one of the driving forces as Montepulciano began to gain momentum in the eighties, according to Vino Italiano. The family may well have made Montepulciano famous  (they are very proud of their own Sangiovese clone) but their most sought-after wine is probably their Vino Santo. This luscious sweet, and expensive, vino is also available from Bubble Brothers.  

This post is the first in a series of Italian wines produced by usually small or medium-sized wineries, are organic and made from native grapes. Taking some “guidance” here from the recently published VINO. Mightn’t always net the hat trick but hope to score two from the three each time. I have quite a few lined up but I’m happy to consider any suggestions or help. #OrganicItaly

• Montepulciano is both a town and a grape, which naturally leads to confusion. The Montepulciano grape is used in the wines known as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. As you’ve seen above, the grape in our Tuscan Rosso is Sangiovese. Abruzzo is in the east of Italy, Tuscany in the west.

From gill-to-fin, Aishling Moore has the Whole Catch covered in her new book

Red Gurnard and, below, on the plate at Goldie.

 

#10 WHOLE CATCH

Aishling Moore

Blasta Books

Published 25^th April, £13/€15

#10: WHOLE CATCH introduces you to pioneering young chef Aishling Moore, one of Ireland’s biggest advocates for regenerative aquaculture and a promoter of the gill-to-fin approach.

 

At 24 years old, Aishling opened Goldie, a seafood bistro in Cork. In just two years, Aishling gained the restaurant a Michelin Bib Gourmand, among many other awards - most recently Food & Wine’s Chef of the Year 2023.

Aishling in Ballycotton

The name of the restaurant is a nod to the much loved ‘Goldie’ fish-shaped weathervane that sits on top of the famous Shandon Bells at the ancient St Anne’s church in Shandon, just north of the city centre.   The weathervane symbolises the historical importance of fishing to Cork.

As well as taking the whole catch, Goldie operates a ‘gill to tail approach’, using as much of the fish as possible.  Some of the most notable dishes are fish spines served with house togarashi, made with hops from Elbow Lane’s brewery and Pollock collar Teryaki.  The ultimate aim is to utilise as much of the fish as possible, with an emphasis on serving parts that are usually discarded.

Catch

 

Cooking only what the boats bring in that day, Aishling’s approach to using the WHOLE CATCH has gained her a loyal customer following, taught her how to plan a well-stocked larder in the event of bad weather, and be resourceful when it comes to foraging from the seabed. Without complicated techniques, expensive equipment, or unfamiliar fish, Aishling will inspire readers to attempt recognisable dishes that make the most of the whole fish. Try Goldie’s famous fish trim nuggets, buttermilk fried tails, karaage hake, shime-style marinated cuts and mussel escabeche to make ahead and store in the fridge.

Alongside step-by-step instructions, buying and storage tips, Aishling introduces clear ways to clean, prepare and cook commonly found flat fish, round fish, shellfish, even tinned fish (!), converting even the wariest and novice cook into a confident seafood handler.

Sardines at Goldie

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

 

Aishling Moore is one of Ireland’s most exciting young chefs. Her fish restaurant, Goldie, has pioneered gill-to-fin cooking in Ireland. In 2019, Aishling was named Chef of the Year by John and Sally McKenna. Goldie achieved Michelin Bib Gourmand status in 2021 and in 2022 was awarded Best Casual Dining in Ireland 2022 by both Food & Wine Magazine and the Restaurant Association of Ireland. In 2023, Aishling was named Young Chef of the Year in the Food & Wine Awards and became deputy head of the Euro-Toques Ireland Food Council, an organisation that endeavours to preserve Irish culinary heritage by supporting traditional cooking methods and promoting producers of local and seasonal artisan products. 

To keep up to date with here follow @aishlingmoore

 

Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary

Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary 

Day 1

Smoked Haddock Beignets with Crab Mayonnaise and Pickled Cucumber at Nua Vista 

Beautiful ware by Ross Kenmare

We had three days or so to check out the eating and drinking scene in the Kingdom. Well, more like in Killarney and Kenmare. It would take much more than three days to sample the full county!

Headed off from Cork for Kenmare on a good enough day. The "new" driver made excellent progress, aided no end by the completed Macroom by-pass. Soon, we turned onto the Kilgravan road and arrived in Kenmare.

Killarney Brewing and Distillery in Fossa.

First stop was the Nua Vista restaurant at the Ring of Kerry Golf Club near Templenoe. The restaurant, owned and managed by the Sheen Falls Hotel, enjoys a fine view over Kenmare Bay as does the golf club. But there were very few around. A shame because the food was excellent. 

The highlight was the Thornhill Confit Duck leg with Sweetcorn, Leeks, and Oyster Mushroom, perfectly cooked and presented. The Smoked Haddock Beignets with Crab Mayonnaise and Pickled Cucumber also fell into that category while the Calamari Rings with Garlic Aioli can also be recommended.

The Ring of Kerry Golf Club is on an elevated site overlooking Kenmare Bay.
Nua Vista is on the first floor - you can spot the outdoor dining area on the balcony.

My favourite salt!

Back in the few miles to Kenmare and heading for Killarney. Had almost passed Molls Gap when I realised that the Avoca shop there is one of the very few stockists of West of Dingle Sea Salt, one of the very best, in the Killarney area. Stocked up with that and our bag of other goodies also included Lady’s Kisses by the West Cork Biscuit Company, plus chocolate from Skelligs and a couple of jars by Janet (Wicklow), one with a Red Pepper Relish, the other with a Ploughman’s Relish.

Time for pause at a busy Torc Waterfall which didn’t disappoint before going out towards Fossa and a call to the impressive Killarney Brewing and Distilling Facility. Disappointment here though! I had been hoping to get a few bottles of their superb Casey Brothers Stout. But they don’t bottle it at all! I had the consolation of getting my hands on a large bottle (75cl) of their Export  Stout and a similar-sized bottle of the well-named Spailpín Fánach Saison along with regular bottles of most of their beers.

We made a quick visit to the Gap of Dunloe before heading back the road to our Aghadoe base, the Killeen House Hotel and Rozzers Restaurant. We settled in there for the evening and had an excellent dinner (including a couple of bottles of the Killarney Blond). More on that visit here.

Gap of Dunloe

Three Days in the Kingdom.  Food Diary

Day 2

Two Albarinos at the Stables.

Our second day started well with a splendid breakfast in Killeens House, highlights being their delightful Spiced Pears to start with and the “mains” of Hake with juicy cherry tomatoes.

Later that morning, we were off on that twisty road to Kenmare again, this time heading for the Sheen Falls Hotel and their new Stables Brasserie. A very impressive brasserie indeed and the food was excellent also. The lunch menu, not surprisingly, was fairly similar to that at Nua Vista. The Thornhill Confit Duck Leg was here also, this time with Savoy Cabbage, Lentils, and Smoked Bacon. Very enjoyable! 

The Stables Brasserie. Classy dining room and, below, the exterior

Quite a wine list included a non-alcoholic Albarino (7.00) by Spain’s Hollow Leg, which was enjoyed by the driver, not bad at all. The alcoholic Porto da Ria Albarino (9.50), with its crisp acidity, citrus fruits with hints of tropical fruits was lively and well-balanced and a long way ahead of its cousin.

After the short spin to see the actual Sheen Falls, we enjoyed a wee walk around the town. Shame to see the likes of Packie’s (latterly Anois) lying idle and also the Purple Heather, another once lively and well-loved venue, up for sale.

Urban Farm

Later on that evening, we enjoyed a very interesting tour of the Killarney Urban Farm, an initiative of the O’Donoghue Ring group, and then moved over to their Killarney Plaza to enjoy the produce from the farm and from their local producers. More on that enjoyable event, including the dinner in the Tan Yard here.  

   

Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary

Day 3

An Síbín

The day started with a lovely late-ish breakfast at Killeen House and a very short trip up the road to the viewing facility for the spectacular lakes and mountains. It has its own car-park, alongside the Aghadoe Heights Hotel. It didn’t disappoint!

The Reeks, including Carrauntohill from the heights of Aghadoe.

Our next halt was at the National Park, the Muckross House area. Didn’t have that much time but we strolled over to the gardens to see an amazing display of tulips, the best I’ve seen this spring (sorry Blarney).

Tulips in gardens at Muckross House.

Lemon Meringue Pie
at An Síbín

Into Kenmare then and a shortish drive to Lauragh for a lunch stop at An Síbín, situated on the Beara Penisula at the foot of Healy Pass and about halfway between Kenmare and Castletownbere. They serve food all day in a very comfortable room (and outdoors when the sun shines) and also have a few rooms if you want to stay in the area.

It looks like a country pub, a well-maintained one, but there is no beer licence, just one for wine, though you can get a non-alcoholic beer. We fueled up for the return home with a hearty open Castletownbere Crab Sandwich and a large St Tola Goats Cheese Salad. Not to mention a large dessert as well! 

Next, and last, on our trip here was a drive to the top of the magnificent Healy Pass, between Lauragh and Adrigole. We were lucky that the weather was bright and settled and were able to fully enjoy the views.

The nearly two-hour journey back to Cork, via Glengarriffe, Keakil and Crookstown (mostly on the R585) went smoothly as did the whole experience in Kerry. We’ll be back.

Almost home!