Two Well Recommended Red Wines. An Old Roots Cinsault from Chile and a GSM from Minervois.

Three Well Recommended Wines. Eight Grape Varieties 

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Chile, 13.5%, 

€24.99 Baggot Street Wines, Blackrock Cellar, The Corkscrew, Wineonline.ie, Ely Wine Store (Maynooth).

This juicy vibrant Cinsault has a bright mid-ruby colour. Ripe red and darker berries in the aromas, just a hint of the time in oak, floral notes too. Bright fruit again prominent but acidity too in a harmonious palate, a decent wash of spice, and quite a pleasant mouthfeel too. Plus a persistent finish. This blend - there is 15% Mourvedre there also - is Very Highly Recommended.

Food pairings suggested include: Rabbit stew, slow-cooked legumes such as lentils, and very juicy cuts of red meat and game are ideal with this great wine. Serve at 12º to 14ºC (53º-57ºF).

This southern French variety has been planted in southern Chile for well over 100 years, but has only recently been making wines as good as this juicy, peppery and wonderfully vibrant red, quite a few of the better examples coming from Itata.

This ‘Old Roots’ Cinsault is made from dry-farmed, head-trained vines grown in the Itata Valley, where the first grape varieties were planted in Chile 500 years ago.

Aurelio Montes has been regularly lauded as one of the pioneers of top class Chilean wine. Wines of South America: “It's hard to express in a paragraph the extent of Aurelio’s impact on modern Chilean wine. Rightly recognised as Chile’s patriarch of quality wine-making…”

He is always pushing the boundaries as he said in a recent Zoom masterclass. “If you don’t go to the limit, you won’t know what you can achieve.” Aurelio says he is always seeking quality through innovation, never afraid to employ new technology. See more of this maestro’s masterclass here. 

Domaine Luc Lapeyre “L’Amourier" Minervois (AOC) 2018, 13%, €16.15 Wines Direct

Dark and deeply so. Aromas too speak of dark fruits, rich purple plums and intense red cherries, a hint or two of the wild garrigue, a touch of liquorice. And the fruit-driven palate is no less intense, though the flavours now reflect a softer alliance of berries, soft tannins too, all wrapped in a fresh and attractive juiciness. Open my collar, the better to enjoy this complex harmony. I could be here for a while with my new and Very Highly Recommended ami. 

“ Lapeyre has an unmistakable gift for creating wines that are intriguing, charming, elegant and refreshing.” I cannot argue with that in the face of this excellent blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah. Wines Direct say it pairs well with Pork and Poultry, Hearty Roots, Game plus Beef and Lamb. Reckon it could also handle spicy meals.

Two Highly Recommended Wines From O'Briens

Two Highly Recommended Wines From O'Briens

Emiliana “Amigo Secreto” Valle de Cachapoal 2016, 14.5%, €12.95 on offer, normally €16.95 O’Briens Wine 

This organic blend of Syrah and Mourvedre, from Emiliana in central Chile, has a ruby colour of medium intensity. Fresh cherry and plum aromas. Silky and soft on the palate, generous fruit, tannins are close to smooth and the finish is long. A friendly everyday wine that may be enjoyed with grilled meats and spicy food. Highly Recommended. 

O’Briens say: Made by our long-time Chilean partner, Emiliana, the organically farmed vines for this wine are planted on their own rootstocks in the Cachapoal Valley. In the cellar there is minimum intervention and the wine is aged for 12 months in French and American oak.

Emiliana were founded in 1986 and the Giulisasti family are the major shareholders. They began the move to organic and biodynamic in the late 90s and their “Gé” (named after the Greek word for earth) was Chile’s first certified biodynamic wine (ref: Wines of South America). They run what they term “interactive vineyards” with biodiversity the major factor. 

Many different kinds of plants (employees are encouraged to grow their own to feed their families), many different types of animals ( alpacas, horses, cows, birds, chickens, sandpipers, geese, etc. live together here and also contribute to the compost used on the land), lots of cover plants (that contribute nitrogen and nutrients to the soil while planting of flowers draw insects away from the vines). Read and see more about their organic and biodynamic practices here. 

Ophalum Albarino Val do Salnes Rias Baixas (DO) 2018, 13%, €18.95 (12.95 at time of purchase) O’Briens Wines

This zesty Albarino, made from young vines, has a light straw colour with a little splash of green. White fruit (“doughnut” peach) feature in the moderately intense aromas. And more white fruit, citrus too, as the fresh wine moves over the palate, quite a fruity finish too. Highly Recommended.

Producers indicate it is ideal with all kinds of seafood, oriental and vegetarian cuisine. O’Briens themselves say the crisp acidity “is an ideal pairing to cut through oily fish or tapas dishes”. We tried it with the delicious smoked chicken crown from Skeaghanore and a garden salad and it worked perfectly well. Serving temperature: 8 – 10 °C.

O’Briens: made exclusively for O'Briens by the Paco y Lola winery in the Salnés Valley, the largest cooperative in Galicia's Rías Baixas region. It has the typical pear and citrus fruit profile of Galician Albariño with a saline mineral note on the long tropical fruit finish. 

All The Sun In The World But Pedro Parra Wants Cloud. He'll Go To The Ends Of The Earth For The Right Soil.

All The Sun In The World But Pedro Parra Wants Cloud.

He'll Go To The Ends Of The Earth For The Right Soil.

Pedro Parra is a renowned soil and vineyard mapping expert with a Masters and PhD in Precision Agriculture and Terroir from the Institut Agronomique National in Paris. As a consultant to many well-known wineries across the world, the Chilean has spent much of the past 20 years discovering new sites, digging ‘calicatas’ (pits for soil analysis) and transforming the way wineries manage their vineyards. 

A calicata

However, he always dreamed of one day making his own wines from old Pais and Cinsault bush vines in his native Itata. A fantastic storyteller with a unique and fascinating career, Pedro told us, during last Thursday’s Liberty Wines online masterclass, about his own project and how he has used the knowledge and experience gained working in vineyards in Burgundy, Europe and the Americas to make his own low-intervention wines from the oldest wine region in Chile.

This renowned consultant is now, it appears, on his way to being a renowned winemaker. The desire to make his own wine took root in Burgundy while he was doing his soil studies in France. “It was in 2002”, he recalled. “I was extremely lucky, I knew nothing about wine when I stayed at a producer’s house. My palate was immediately and strongly influenced by the wines I tasted there.”

Then he started to wonder why Chilean wines were not as good, why they were so soft. “Why? Was it the winemaker? Was it the soil? What else? I figured it was a mix of everything.” “So, from 2004 to 2010, I worked hard as a consultant to open minds, to get people to look at other options, always with the idea to make my own wine, but where?”

“I knew where not to go, not Limari, not Elqui, not Casablanca. I wanted terroir with cloudy weather so I was looking to the south of Chile which has more wind, more cloud.”

And then there was the question of terroir. “Terroir has been very important in my career. Ninety per cent of the best wines come from just five different soils. Limestone is one. There is very little limestone in Chile but we do have fantastic granitic soil.” Again, the south fitted the bill.

“My grapes though were still a mystery and, in any case, my wines were to be about the place, not so much about the grape.” But he was drawn to two grapes. One was Pais, brought by the Spanish 400 years ago and widespread. The other was Cinsault, though that was grown only in one small town in Itata.

Pedro on screen from Conception last Thursday

He started in 2013. Not being a winemaker, he was not confident. “You don’t have the security,” he said. But then an experienced friend told him that not all good wines were made by winemakers and eventually he built up the confidence to make wines the way he wanted them made, once he selected the sort of granitic soil he required. He dug his calicatas and avoided clay. “Unless I have the  very best clay, I’d prefer not to have it all. Bad clay is horrible.”

“Little by little, I understand the plateau in Itata.”  And in 2013-15 he researched many plots to find the ones he really likes. “By 2016 I had found some places I now work, where I can apply my ideas. I use the horse, 2 or 3 times a season, to keep the soil in trim. It is not expensive, it’s a beautiful thing to do, I can go with the family.

A handful of quartz

Now he produces about 30 different wines. “My goal is a maximum of 5,000 cases. I don’t want to go more. Over that would be hard to control for our three person team. We are economical. Our destemmer is not new - you don’t need to spend €40,000 on a destemmer.”

“Great wines come from great terroir. Maybe I was too focussed on Burgundian methods at the start. It took me years to understand my method of extraction.” A tip from a Spanish winemaking friend put him on the right road with the extraction. He is getting the fruit and the wine he wants, the kind of wine he’d like drinking himself. “I am so happy. 2020 has been the best quality so far.”

I’ll be looking out for that 2020. I thought his 2018 “Vinista” was a cracking wine made from Pais. Colour is light to mid ruby. Wild red berries feature in the aromas, with herb notes in the background. Refreshing bright juicy fruit on the palate, a hint of spice too. String quartet rather than full orchestra, it is immediately harmonious right through to the engaging finalé. And this gem, the fruit sourced from 120 year old vines planted at 300 m above sea level, is one of the results of Pedro’s amazing dedication and expertise. The wine has spent one year in untoasted foudre and then spent 8 months in bottle before release. Time well spent!

As were the 90 minutes of that superb masterclass.

Links to Previous masterclasses in this current series, all recent:

Biodynamic winemaking with Austria's Fred Loimer

With Giovanni Manetti in Fontodi Chianti Classico

In the Swartland with Charles and Charl. The Spice Route and Fairview.

Chilean Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes

The Day The Vines Died in Alto Piemonte with Luca de Marchi

Matt Thompson's Blank Canvas in Marlborough

Portuguese Grape Varieties with Antonio Braga

Australian Chardonnay with Shaw+Smith https://www.corkbilly.com/2020/06/how-australias-supportive-winemakers.html 

A masterclass from Tuscany by wine-maker Paolo De Marchi

Rebooting Armenia's Ancient Winemaking with Zoric Gharabian

Barolo 2016 with Franco Massolino and Giuseppe Vajra

Biodynamic Californian Winemaker Ted Lemon of Littorai

Charles Heidsieck is "freshened up" by Cyril Brun

Cellar Master Émilien Boutillat Details Climate Change Challenges.

Jane Eyre. Winemaker in Burgundy and Australia.

Nino Pieropan fondly remembered in son Andrea’s Masterclass

Behind the scenes at El Bulli with the men behind the versatile wins of Gallina de Piel

Les Frères Bréchet busy making wine in Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas

Pedro Parra and Pais the links in this very highly recommended Chilean double

Pedro Parra and Pais the links in this very highly recommended Chilean double

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018, 13%, €23.99 

Blackrock Cellar, Redmonds, The Corkscrew and www.wineolnline.ie

This wine from southern Chile is a light to mid ruby. Wild red berries feature in the aromas, with herb notes in the background. Refreshing bright juicy fruit on the palate, a hint of spice too. String quartet rather than full orchestra, it is immediately harmonious right through to the engaging finalé. 

A young beauty from ancient Pais vines. Don’t say no just because you’re not familiar with the Pais grape (also known as Mission). I’m loving this one. Very Highly Recommended. I’m also putting his Cinsault on my list. And I read somewhere that Gamay may also be considered by Pedro.

Pedro Parra (see also Clos de Fous below) is a renowned soil and vineyard mapping expert with a Masters and PhD in Precision Agriculture and Terroir from the Institut Agronomique National in Paris. There are photos of him all over the internet, with 99% of them showing him climbing out of a 6’ deep hole, holes he excavates for soil analysis purposes. No wonder he is also known as Dr Terroir!

He has spent decades working internationally but bit by bit realised he really wanted his own vineyard and winery and so he set up in Itata near the ocean, 500 kms south of Santiago, the capital of Chile. And this gem, the fruit sourced from 120 year old vines planted at 300 m above sea level, is one of the results. The wine has spent one year in untoasted foudre and then spent 8 months in bottle before release. Time well spent!

* Pais is a red grape variety of great historical importance. According to Wine-Searcher.com it was the first Vitis Vinifera grape variety to be exported from the old world to the new world in the 16th century.

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016, 14%, €19.99

Blackrock Cellar, Grapevine, Green Man Wines, Martins , The Corkscrew and www.wineolnline.ie

Mid Ruby is the colour of this Itata blend (of País, Carignan and mostly Cinsault). It boasts a nose full of red berries, some spice too. There is quite an arresting reveal on the palate, berries and cherries, generous and silky, and there’s a lively acidity in the mix, a harmonious wine, with fine tannins too in the long finish. Very Highly Recommended

The name is a cheeky French expression, to describe the stash of wine the producer is keeping to drink himself (for my gob and my gob only!).  Quite a few French words on the  label including assemblage (blend).

Clos des Fous is about four friends, four crazy guys that have chosen to ignore the experts about where to plant vineyards and to trust their own instincts. But don’t worry, the four are experts themselves, experts with a mission. The four are winemaker Pedro Parra (see his wine above), François Massoc (extensive experience in Burgundy), winemaker Paco Leyton (Altos las Hormigas, Puculan) and businessman Albert Cussen (strengths in admin and finance). 

They are about growing wines over “the Chilean extreme, fresh and unpredictable places, looking for natural balance”. “This is a unique and groundbreaking project based on a delicate and novel terroir selection. Following the Burgundy philosophy, our focus is to achieve wines with minimal intervention, letting the terroir express itself.” 

Clos des Fous (the madmen’s vineyard) is highly praised in Wines of South America: “Their approach produces wines that distinctively express their terroir, made with organic fruit and using techniques that are so minimalist that the wines are vinified without ‘safety nets such as fining or filtering'.”

Looks like they have a good thing going here at Clos Des Fous. Already they have built up quite a portfolio - Pinot Noir is their signature wine -  and you can expect more as they build on Pais, Cinsault, and Carignan. There is granite here so perhaps Gamay and Grenache will be added to the list!

Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes Takes It To The Limit One More Time

Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes

 Takes It To The Limit One More Time

Down here, you don't pay tax on the part of the building that stands in the water!

Aurelio Montes, noted as one of the pioneers of top class Chilean wine, is taking it to the limit one more time. “If you don’t go to the limit, you won’t know what you can achieve,” he told us on last Tuesday’s Liberty Wine organised masterclass. Thanks to the magic of Zoom, Aurelio (wearing beret and poncho) was talking to us from a cool southern Chile on his way to the Chiloé Archipelago to check on his latest vineyard, this one on an island.

“I have known Aurelio for 7 or 8 years,” said Liberty MD David Gleave as he introduced him. “Known of him for much longer. He is always looking out for new areas, always pushing the barriers. It gives his wines an extra dimension. He is still full of energy and enthusiasm and a man of great knowledge.” 

Before

Aurelio said he was always seeking quality through innovation, never afraid to employ new technology. “Happy we have achieved so much. I enjoy too much what I do.” And then he took us through his Chilean vineyards. (He also has an international presence).

He has had an eye for a good location from his university days. As a 21 year old he visited a place (150km south of Santiago) and began to dream of making vine in Apalta. “Time went on,..” before, years later, with his partners, “we bought a bit of land”. “We planted the vineyard and were totally correct. The quality was amazing. Then we started planting on the hillsides and the neighbours thought we were crazy. Year by year though it was good - for Syrah, Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon and more. Then we started getting noticed.” And Montes began to grow - they have no less than three pages of wines in the Liberty catalogue.

After

“I’m a moving kind of guy.. never stay still.. just can’t stay in one place. Why not move to the coastline?” And so they did, to Marchigüe. “Just 6km to the coast, more gentle slopes, a rolling landscape and the temperature of course is more coastal. .. mainly reds but a little Chardonnay, Viognier. Results here were even more encouraging, wines with character and personality, really fantastic. We are now trying Touriga Nacional, Tannat, more. We were the first ones there and it’s been an amazing experience. A beautiful place. I take a look every week and I never get tired of it.”

And the coast was the draw again for his next move, to Zapallar “an expensive summer resort, in the Aconcagua Valley”. They were by the sea but there was a lack of water, a worldwide problem due to climate change, he said. “So thinking of the future, we started a programme of dry farming, we built a reservoir and we have two deep wells and deliberately keep the yields low. Results are great, fantastic concentration, great expression and personality plus acidity. It’s been a wonderful challenge, a big vineyard and we are always exploring”. And they’ve had success with Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.

“It is totally coastal influenced. In morning there’s mist and fog and then a shy sunshine from mid day. The vines grow happy. The grapes ripen slowly.” And you can find these coastal beauties in the Outer Limits range, also imported by Liberty. Aurelio was sipping the Pinot (possible best in Chile) as he spoke.

As he said, they are always exploring. He is delighted with the “little bit of Syrah, looking fantastic, a lighter coastal wine, lot of character and freshness.” And David Gleave endorsed that opinion.

The reservoir

“We are fearless,” continued Aurelio. “We don’t stop always trying things.” Albarino is next on the list. He related how he was in Spain about 3 years back and “fell in love” with Albarino and “is moving some here as Zapallar is like Rias Baixas”.

Coastal viticulture has been good to Aurelio and so the next logical step for this regular yachtsman was to set up on an island and he found it in Chiloé, 1200km south of Santiago. “You have to go to the limits to discover how far you can go! It is beyond the viticultural limits.”

You’ll often hear of the cooling influence of the Humboldt current off the Chilean coast. Fortunately, for Aurelio, the current doesn’t get in around the Chiloé Archipelago and so the temperature on the islands is a few degrees higher than you might expect! Otherwise it would probably be too cold for the vines.

“The soil is volcanic, one metre deep, fertility not that big. There are 120 inhabitants, 10 kids in school and there is a culture of fishing. We decided to plant seven varieties.” That was in 2016. No harvest yet but 2021 will tell what the Mechuque vineyard (which runs down to the sea) is capable of. Knowing Aurelio’s record, you wouldn’t be betting against him!

Where next for Aurelio?

* All pics are screenshots from the masterclass.

Previous masterclasses in this current series:

The Day The Vines Died in Alto Piemonte with Luca de Marchi
Matt Thompson's Blank Canvas in Marlborough

Portuguese Grape Varieties with Antonio Braga

A masterclass from Tuscany by wine-maker Paolo De Marchi

Rebooting Armenia's Ancient Winemaking with Zoric Gharabian

Barolo 2016 with Franco Massolino and Giuseppe Vajra

Biodynamic Californian Winemaker Ted Lemon of Littorai

Charles Heidsieck is "freshened up" by Cyril Brun

Cellar Master Émilien Boutillat Details Climate Change Challenges.

Watch for these excellent wines in O'Brien's November - December Sale!

Two excellent wines from South America feature in O'Brien's current promotion.

Dozens and dozens of wines are reduced in the current O'Brien's promotion that runs up to the end of the year. I've picked a few and have a couple of South American beauties below for you. Some of the others are pretty good too and I'll come to those in the next week or so. In the meantime, check out this magnificent Malbec from over 1,300 meters in the Andes foothills - that's higher than Carrauntoohill. The other, a Cinsault, a very pleasant light red, comes from the highly regard Di Martino winery in Chile.

Once upon a time, we bought red and white and maybe rosé. But now you'll see organic, biological, natural, even orange on labels. Can be confusing, I know. O'Brien's have put a handy leaflet together to explain the terms and I'll reproduce parts here from time to time. The first two are below - hope they help!

Casa de Uco El Salvaje Malbec Los Chacayes (IG) 2016, 13.5%, €16.95 (19.95)

Purple is the colour of this organic wine from a high altitude vineyard in the Mendoza region of Argentina. The rich aromas of ripe dark fruit rise to meet you. And on the palate the big flavours (plum, dark cherry and blackberry) are matched by an excellent acidity, a harmony relayed to the decent finish (not overly long). An immediately engaging wine and Very Highly Recommended. Just 2,500 bottles are produced and the wine has been fermented in large concrete eggs.

Los Chacayes is one of four wine areas in Tunuyan in the Uco valley. The vineyard Casa de Uco is located in the valley, tucked against the foothills of the Andes Mountains, and close to Mendoza. El Salvaje (wild) also figures prominently on the label and is the overall name given to a series of organic wines that also includes, among others, a Pinot Noir and a white blend.

This wine is 100% Malbec from certified organic vineyards located at 1300 metres above sea level. This elevation maintains the fresh acidity in the grapes. Unoaked, this is a pure expression of the Uco Valley terroir. 

Enjoy with beef, lamb or char-grilled vegetables. In Argentina, I’m told they pair it with juicy Sirloin of pork, Braised lamb shoulder with roasted parsnips, or Fillet steak with chimichurri. Wine Folly says the perfect Malbec Food Pairing is Black pepper buffalo burgers with blue cheese mushrooms and rosemary infused garlic kale chips. Sounds great to me.

Alberto Antonini, Winemaker Casa de Uco, is enthusiastic: "After 16 years of experience in the Uco Valley, I can affirm that this is the exact area where the best wines of Mendoza are produced. The proximity to the Andes Mountains, the ideal day to night temperature ranges, and the fertile soil with excellent drainage, make this land exceptional to produce high end wines and develop the viticulture and enology in the most natural way possible"

De Martino “Gallardia” Cinsault Itata (DO) 2017, 13%, 14.95 (19.95)

This delightful 100% Cinsault is a light ruby, quite like Pinot Noir. Aromas are rather intense: red fruit (including raspberry) mainly, plus floral elements. Mouthfeel is soft. Smooth and fresh on the palate, the raspberry prominent again, good acidity too, and a pleasing finish as well. Highly Recommended. Maybe Very Highly Recommended if you love these light dry reds as many people do nowadays.

De Martino say this, from their Guarilihue vineyard (22km from the sea), “is a tribute to the coastal vineyards located by the southern region of Chile; it is the cradle of the country’s viticulture, with vines dating back to 1551…. A sustainable agriculture, including dry farming and ploughing with horses are practiced in our vineyards.”

Wines of South America has a very high regard for De Martino and have included some of their wines in Top Ten varietal lists. De Martino winemaker Marcelo Retamal is one of the country’s most accomplished and is known as el doctor.  “He uses no new oak, preferring larger older casks, nd promotes the use of the old ceramic tinjaras, clay amphorae, for fermentation. There are no cultivated yeasts, no filtration, and no intervention.”

My Picks from O'Brien's October Promotion

My Picks from O'Brien's October Promotion

O'Briens October promotion is now in full swing, with reductions on dozens of wines from around the world ranging from 8 to 40 per cent until 28th October. Watch out too for their upcoming Italian Sale (16th to 28th October). My three top picks include a couple of loveable Italians.

Vola Volé Trebbiano D’Abruzzo (DOP) 2017, 12.5%, €13.95 (17.95)

There’s a bee dancing on the label here, letting other bees know the orientation of a food source. I’ll do a little dance too and let you know about a very lovely wine indeed. The wine in the bottle is influenced by the bees also, with the fermentation yeasts carefully selected from the pollen the bees collect in the wildlife parks surrounding the vineyards.

Very light straw colour, clean and bright. Aromas are of light intensity, more floral than fruity. Lightly apple flavoured (more citrusy if it warms up a bit in the glass) with a noticeable acidity, it is light and crisp and easy to drink. Light seafood dishes are a suggested match. Perhaps with a Goatsbridge trout salad.

This wine comes from Cantina Orsogna in the mountainous Abruzzo region of eastern Italy. This cooperative specialises in crafting organic and sustainable wines from local grape varieties. The Vola Volé range of wines are dedicated to the protection of bees by protecting their habitat from pesticides and herbicides and is certified by Biodiversity Friend.

Trebbiano is known as Ugni Blanc in France, grown mainly for the Cognac and Armagnac distilleries.  According to Wine-Searcher, its high acidity acts as a natural antiseptic, keeping the grapes and wines free from bacterial spoilage, a natural substitute for sulphur, handy as sulphur is not compatible with brandy making.

Cortese “Nostru” Nerello Mascalese Terre Siciliane (IGP) 2017, 13%, 12.95 (14.95)

This is another Italian bottle with an eye-catching design. The agave grows widely in Sicily and the relatively new owners here took inspiration for the Nerello Mascalese design from the plant as a symbol of the Sicilian landscape. Indeed, the designs on all the Nostru range are based on symbols of local culture and life, as expressed in authentic Sicilian Majolica ceramics. 

Likewise, the wine is made “in the most traditional and natural way to reflect the true character of the estate’s terroir and its grape varieties” Their methods include fermentation in terracotta. And their ambition is to rediscover precious varieties from Sicily’s past including this “Nerello Mascalese grape, the prince of native red grape varieties of Mount Etna.”. 

Eye-catching label aside, this fresh and light wine has a ruby robe, towards the dark side. Red berries and a hint of spice in the complex aromas. It is fresh and lively, again that spice and fruit, elegant with silky smooth tannins, harmony throughout right to a very satisfying finish. Another excellent Italian.

Emiliana “Indigo” Viognier Gran Reserva, Valle Casablanca (DO) Chile, 2018, 14.5%, €11.95 (16.95)

Emiliana are the largest producers of estate grown organic wines in the world and this organic Viognier comes from their Casablanca Valley vineyards.

Thirty-five per cent of it is aged in French oak for 5 months. I remember drinking Viognier first years ago down in the Languedoc area during family holidays. I was probably buying the cheap stuff from the bottom shelf and didn’t particularly like the sweetish flavours of the liquid. At the time, I was never sure either about the pronunciation (vee·o·nyei - hear it here). But you need have no worries about this beauty.

Light straw colour with hints of green, very bright and clean looking in the glass. Aromas are complex, exotic fruits (mango, pineapple, etc) with blossom notes as well. Palate too is intense, lush fruit and a touch of honey but also well balanced through to a long and pleasant finish.

Other tips!

Louis Jadot Fleurie

Jadot make wines in Burgundy and also in neighbouring Beaujolais. Fleurie is one of the ten crus in the latter region and straightaway you notice its bright light red colour. It is one hundred per cent Gamay. Red fruits, acidity, some tannins, well balanced. A lovely drop as we might say around here.

Astrolabe Pinot Noir

The province of Marlborough has long been recognised as ideal for the growing of Pinot Noir and here winemaker Simon Waghorn takes full advantage of the local advantages: leafy vineyards, ripe fruit and cool climate growing. 

Aromas are cheerful, ripe fruits (cherry and berry). Full bodied, flavours of plum and brambly fruits, well balanced, the oak (11 months of it) harmoniously integrated, supple and silky in a long and totally satisfying finish.

Tons de Duorum

From Portugal’s Duoro comes the gorgeous Tons de Duorum Red. No shortage of ripe fruit flavours on the elegant palate, refreshing with a little spice there too, fine tannins and a lovely soft finish.

Gaia Assyrtiko Wild Ferment

The grapes are grown high up in circles around the top of the craters on Santorini, one of the Greek islands. Sometimes wines from hot climates lack acidity, but that is not the case here. Try it with shellfish, also smoked fish. Well worth a try!

La Côte Blanche de Sophie Bertin Sancerre

This is a star from the Loire. Not that you’d know it from the pale straw colour. The magic starts with the aromas, intense, white fruit and floral notes, minerality and more, full of promise. And that promise is handsomely delivered on the palate.

Tacchetto Bardolino Classico 2014, 12.5%

This has a very light red colour and indeed is nice and light in many respects, including the fragrant fruity aromas. It is fresh and fruity too on the palate, a little spice too, good acidity and quite a long finish, a beautiful light, smooth easy-drinking wine, good either with or without food.