Two Winners. A Malbec from its Cahors home and a Hawkes Bay Syrah

Two Winners. A Malbec from its Cahors home and a Hawkes Bay Syrah

You've heard of flying winemakers. You're more
likely to find Pedro Parra in the ground.

Causse Du Theron Terrasse Malbec Cahors (AOC) 2018 13.5%, 

RRP € 23.99 The 1601 The Cinnamon Cottage Cork Simply Delicious wineonline.ie

In 1947, a few growers founded this cooperative in Parnac. Their goal was to revive Malbec, the grape of Cahors. They succeeded.

I’m always interested in a wine that has had input from Pedro Parra, the renowned expert on soil and vineyard mapping. Always interested also when I come across a wine from Cahors. And here I have both, together!

In the summer of 2010, I was meandering lazily, like the River Lot, through the vineyards of Cahors and the ancient Cathar fiefdom of Luzech before getting down to buying some wine in the little village of Parnac. Here the Cave Cooperative du Vignoble de Cahors (you saw Les Cotes d’Olt on the signs) have a massive cave with a fine shop.

Founded in 1947, it has also been credited with the revival of winemaking in the area which had fallen on hard times. The  Cahors vineyard and its Auxerrois (Malbec) was fading having had survived for at least 600 years.

Led by the Syndicate, then "headed by Abel Baudel, and by the new actor that is the cooperative cellar, Cahors wine received its first quality label, the VDQS in 1951. …On April 15, 1971 the classification decree (AOC) appeared. Cahors enters the elite of French wine.”

And while Malbec is now very much associated with Argentina, Cahors remains one of its best vineyards. Indeed, the ongoing revival, even this bottle, has been boosted by an Argentine touch. 

Causse du Théron is a project started by Antonio Morescalchi of Altos Las Hormigas in Argentina and his friend Pedro Parra, the renowned expert on vineyard mapping in South America. 

Following their first visit to Cahors in 2013, they became fascinated by the origins of Malbec and the region’s diverse soils, especially the vines planted on Kimmeridgian limestone. They selected two vineyards owned by a local family as the wellspring of their Cahors Malbec project. The name, Causse du Théron, translates to ‘hills of Theron’, causse meaning hill in the local dialect.

Wines from Cahors were, over the centuries, known as “Black Wine” but this one is light, an alluring and bright mid ruby. Cherries and herbal notes head the aromas. Tart berries and cherries backbone the fruit-driven wine on the palate where a fresh acidity is an outstanding actor. Concentration is high - the vines are forty years old. Silky tannins underline its refreshing quality and the slightly spicy finish is lengthy. Elegance over power. Very Highly Recommended - just as well after the build-up! 😉

Fermentation took place in temperature-controlled, stainless-steel tanks using ambient yeasts. The wine spent between 15-21 days on its skins with gentle pump overs to aid extraction. The wine then aged for 18 months in cement tanks to allow it to mellow into what is the top Malbec I’ve enjoyed in a long while.

Food pairings: Malbec is a beaut with leaner red meats (try steak and mushrooms or buffalo burgers and mushrooms). Beef Brisket, Lamb and BBQ Pork Ribs also come up trumps.

Geek Bits:

Closure: Agglomerated Cork

Alcohol (ABV): 13.5 %

Acidity: 5.55 g/l

2018: an ideal vintage.

Oak: none

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Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2018 Hawkes Bay New Zealand 12.5%

RRP € 34.99 wineonline.ie The Corkscrew Avoca Handweavers Shops Mitchell & Son Clontarf Wines

In 1993, Trinity Hill was one of the first to plant grapes on the Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay in 1993. The Gimblett Gravels, located on the former bed of the Ngaruroro River, is now a highly sought-after sub-region renowned for the quality of its wines, particularly those made from Syrah.

Colour here is quite a dark crimson, lighter around the rim. Jammy fruits and pepper in the aromas. That fruit is prominent on the palate, with subtle oak in the background. This Syrah lives up to its French name with an elegant restraint. Tannins are ripe and the natural acidity is another plus factor. Finish is smooth and long. Great purity and freshness here and Very Highly Recommended.

The wine was aged for 14 months in a mixture of new and older French oak 228 litre barriques and 5,000 litre oak ovals. This barrel ageing regime, more typically used in the making of Pinot Noir, includes lees stirring and very minimal racking. It was bottled in early 2019.

They say: Our premium wines made from hand-picked fruit exclusively sourced from estate vineyards in the Gimblett Gravels grape growing region. These wines are elegant yet powerful and reflect the very best expression of the vineyard and winemaking team. They are made with food in mind (great with red meat dishes but especially good with game, particularly with duck and venison) and lend themselves to mid to long term cellaring.

All The Sun In The World But Pedro Parra Wants Cloud. He'll Go To The Ends Of The Earth For The Right Soil.

All The Sun In The World But Pedro Parra Wants Cloud.

He'll Go To The Ends Of The Earth For The Right Soil.

Pedro Parra is a renowned soil and vineyard mapping expert with a Masters and PhD in Precision Agriculture and Terroir from the Institut Agronomique National in Paris. As a consultant to many well-known wineries across the world, the Chilean has spent much of the past 20 years discovering new sites, digging ‘calicatas’ (pits for soil analysis) and transforming the way wineries manage their vineyards. 

A calicata

However, he always dreamed of one day making his own wines from old Pais and Cinsault bush vines in his native Itata. A fantastic storyteller with a unique and fascinating career, Pedro told us, during last Thursday’s Liberty Wines online masterclass, about his own project and how he has used the knowledge and experience gained working in vineyards in Burgundy, Europe and the Americas to make his own low-intervention wines from the oldest wine region in Chile.

This renowned consultant is now, it appears, on his way to being a renowned winemaker. The desire to make his own wine took root in Burgundy while he was doing his soil studies in France. “It was in 2002”, he recalled. “I was extremely lucky, I knew nothing about wine when I stayed at a producer’s house. My palate was immediately and strongly influenced by the wines I tasted there.”

Then he started to wonder why Chilean wines were not as good, why they were so soft. “Why? Was it the winemaker? Was it the soil? What else? I figured it was a mix of everything.” “So, from 2004 to 2010, I worked hard as a consultant to open minds, to get people to look at other options, always with the idea to make my own wine, but where?”

“I knew where not to go, not Limari, not Elqui, not Casablanca. I wanted terroir with cloudy weather so I was looking to the south of Chile which has more wind, more cloud.”

And then there was the question of terroir. “Terroir has been very important in my career. Ninety per cent of the best wines come from just five different soils. Limestone is one. There is very little limestone in Chile but we do have fantastic granitic soil.” Again, the south fitted the bill.

“My grapes though were still a mystery and, in any case, my wines were to be about the place, not so much about the grape.” But he was drawn to two grapes. One was Pais, brought by the Spanish 400 years ago and widespread. The other was Cinsault, though that was grown only in one small town in Itata.

Pedro on screen from Conception last Thursday

He started in 2013. Not being a winemaker, he was not confident. “You don’t have the security,” he said. But then an experienced friend told him that not all good wines were made by winemakers and eventually he built up the confidence to make wines the way he wanted them made, once he selected the sort of granitic soil he required. He dug his calicatas and avoided clay. “Unless I have the  very best clay, I’d prefer not to have it all. Bad clay is horrible.”

“Little by little, I understand the plateau in Itata.”  And in 2013-15 he researched many plots to find the ones he really likes. “By 2016 I had found some places I now work, where I can apply my ideas. I use the horse, 2 or 3 times a season, to keep the soil in trim. It is not expensive, it’s a beautiful thing to do, I can go with the family.

A handful of quartz

Now he produces about 30 different wines. “My goal is a maximum of 5,000 cases. I don’t want to go more. Over that would be hard to control for our three person team. We are economical. Our destemmer is not new - you don’t need to spend €40,000 on a destemmer.”

“Great wines come from great terroir. Maybe I was too focussed on Burgundian methods at the start. It took me years to understand my method of extraction.” A tip from a Spanish winemaking friend put him on the right road with the extraction. He is getting the fruit and the wine he wants, the kind of wine he’d like drinking himself. “I am so happy. 2020 has been the best quality so far.”

I’ll be looking out for that 2020. I thought his 2018 “Vinista” was a cracking wine made from Pais. Colour is light to mid ruby. Wild red berries feature in the aromas, with herb notes in the background. Refreshing bright juicy fruit on the palate, a hint of spice too. String quartet rather than full orchestra, it is immediately harmonious right through to the engaging finalé. And this gem, the fruit sourced from 120 year old vines planted at 300 m above sea level, is one of the results of Pedro’s amazing dedication and expertise. The wine has spent one year in untoasted foudre and then spent 8 months in bottle before release. Time well spent!

As were the 90 minutes of that superb masterclass.

Links to Previous masterclasses in this current series, all recent:

Biodynamic winemaking with Austria's Fred Loimer

With Giovanni Manetti in Fontodi Chianti Classico

In the Swartland with Charles and Charl. The Spice Route and Fairview.

Chilean Wine Maestro Aurelio Montes

The Day The Vines Died in Alto Piemonte with Luca de Marchi

Matt Thompson's Blank Canvas in Marlborough

Portuguese Grape Varieties with Antonio Braga

Australian Chardonnay with Shaw+Smith https://www.corkbilly.com/2020/06/how-australias-supportive-winemakers.html 

A masterclass from Tuscany by wine-maker Paolo De Marchi

Rebooting Armenia's Ancient Winemaking with Zoric Gharabian

Barolo 2016 with Franco Massolino and Giuseppe Vajra

Biodynamic Californian Winemaker Ted Lemon of Littorai

Charles Heidsieck is "freshened up" by Cyril Brun

Cellar Master Émilien Boutillat Details Climate Change Challenges.

Jane Eyre. Winemaker in Burgundy and Australia.

Nino Pieropan fondly remembered in son Andrea’s Masterclass

Behind the scenes at El Bulli with the men behind the versatile wins of Gallina de Piel

Les Frères Bréchet busy making wine in Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas

Pedro Parra and Pais the links in this very highly recommended Chilean double

Pedro Parra and Pais the links in this very highly recommended Chilean double

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018, 13%, €23.99 

Blackrock Cellar, Redmonds, The Corkscrew and www.wineolnline.ie

This wine from southern Chile is a light to mid ruby. Wild red berries feature in the aromas, with herb notes in the background. Refreshing bright juicy fruit on the palate, a hint of spice too. String quartet rather than full orchestra, it is immediately harmonious right through to the engaging finalé. 

A young beauty from ancient Pais vines. Don’t say no just because you’re not familiar with the Pais grape (also known as Mission). I’m loving this one. Very Highly Recommended. I’m also putting his Cinsault on my list. And I read somewhere that Gamay may also be considered by Pedro.

Pedro Parra (see also Clos de Fous below) is a renowned soil and vineyard mapping expert with a Masters and PhD in Precision Agriculture and Terroir from the Institut Agronomique National in Paris. There are photos of him all over the internet, with 99% of them showing him climbing out of a 6’ deep hole, holes he excavates for soil analysis purposes. No wonder he is also known as Dr Terroir!

He has spent decades working internationally but bit by bit realised he really wanted his own vineyard and winery and so he set up in Itata near the ocean, 500 kms south of Santiago, the capital of Chile. And this gem, the fruit sourced from 120 year old vines planted at 300 m above sea level, is one of the results. The wine has spent one year in untoasted foudre and then spent 8 months in bottle before release. Time well spent!

* Pais is a red grape variety of great historical importance. According to Wine-Searcher.com it was the first Vitis Vinifera grape variety to be exported from the old world to the new world in the 16th century.

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016, 14%, €19.99

Blackrock Cellar, Grapevine, Green Man Wines, Martins , The Corkscrew and www.wineolnline.ie

Mid Ruby is the colour of this Itata blend (of País, Carignan and mostly Cinsault). It boasts a nose full of red berries, some spice too. There is quite an arresting reveal on the palate, berries and cherries, generous and silky, and there’s a lively acidity in the mix, a harmonious wine, with fine tannins too in the long finish. Very Highly Recommended

The name is a cheeky French expression, to describe the stash of wine the producer is keeping to drink himself (for my gob and my gob only!).  Quite a few French words on the  label including assemblage (blend).

Clos des Fous is about four friends, four crazy guys that have chosen to ignore the experts about where to plant vineyards and to trust their own instincts. But don’t worry, the four are experts themselves, experts with a mission. The four are winemaker Pedro Parra (see his wine above), François Massoc (extensive experience in Burgundy), winemaker Paco Leyton (Altos las Hormigas, Puculan) and businessman Albert Cussen (strengths in admin and finance). 

They are about growing wines over “the Chilean extreme, fresh and unpredictable places, looking for natural balance”. “This is a unique and groundbreaking project based on a delicate and novel terroir selection. Following the Burgundy philosophy, our focus is to achieve wines with minimal intervention, letting the terroir express itself.” 

Clos des Fous (the madmen’s vineyard) is highly praised in Wines of South America: “Their approach produces wines that distinctively express their terroir, made with organic fruit and using techniques that are so minimalist that the wines are vinified without ‘safety nets such as fining or filtering'.”

Looks like they have a good thing going here at Clos Des Fous. Already they have built up quite a portfolio - Pinot Noir is their signature wine -  and you can expect more as they build on Pais, Cinsault, and Carignan. There is granite here so perhaps Gamay and Grenache will be added to the list!