Wednesday, May 1, 2024

“One of the best bottles of Verdicchio in the world.” Collestefano Verdicchio Di Matelica.

Collestefano  25 Anni Verdicchio Di Matelica (DOC) 2022, 12.5% ABV 

RRP: €19.25. Stockists: Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

“One of the best bottles of Verdicchio in the world.”

The colour of this outstanding organic white is a pale gold. Aromas are herby, grassy, and minerally, reminiscent of Sauvignon Blanc. With its herbal tang, it is lively and refreshing on the palate, lime zesty with the tartness of green apples and quince. And, like many Italian wines, the crisp acidity means it is superb with food (“seafood ready” is a term I've heard used in connection with Verdicchio from this area). 

More and more

winemakers, such as Collestefano, are allowing their Verdicchio to rest on its lees during fermentation, adding further complexity to the wine.

In Matelica, according to VINO, the diurnal shift “yields crisp mountain whites”. The Valle Camertina is the only valley completely protected from the sea and here “Fabio Marchionni (strict in his application of organic techniques) produces what has to be one of the best bottles of Verdicchio in the world.” And this is one of them!

Verdicchio may not immediately spring to mind when thinking of white wine grapes but it has a long history in Italy. Two areas in the Marche* (central-eastern Italy) are well known for their Verdicchio wines, the Jesi and the smaller more inland Matelica. The wines of coastal Jesi are the better-known known, more popular. But I’ve a grá for the Matelica version and it continues with this one!

Importers Le Caveau love this for its “racy, stony and revitalising mouthfeel”. Sounds like a Sauvignon Blanc to me and indeed Le Caveau recommend using it like a Marlborough SB. It’s not just me and Le Caveau that are impressed. In 2013, the Decanter Italy supplement raved about it: “Italy's best-buy of all time? Unbelievable quality for the price.” 

Eric Asimov, the famed NY Times wine writer, loved the 2020 vintage, noting its “energy and electrifying acidity”, how it offered “plenty of texture and flavour”, and that “it made a lasting impression.

It is organic, has incredible quality and is on our Very Highly Recommended list. 

  • How to pronounce Marche, via You Tube, here

This post is part of a series of Italian wines that are produced by usually small or medium-sized wineries, are organic and made from native grapes. Taking some “guidance” here from the recently published VINO. Mightn’t always net the hat trick but hope to score two from the three each time. I have quite a few lined up but I’m happy to consider any suggestions or help. #OrganicItaly

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