Farm Restaurant, Clonakilty. Well Worth A Visit.

Farm Restaurant, Clonakilty.

Well Worth A Visit.

Clonakilty’s Farm Restaurant has made a big impression in less than six months. Produce from the local seas and farms features strongly on the menu in the Ashe Street venue, right in the middle of the town. Comfortable seating and friendly service, along with top class cooking, makes for an excellent dining experience.

We were in last week and, with a chocolate tasting coming up immediately afterwards, decided to go for two courses of their early bird menu. While reading the menus, we got a cone full of pop-corn and a basket full of gorgeous breads (including a particularly delicious one with onions and Dubliner in the mix - what a tasty crust this had).

Delighted to see so many local names listed, including Clonakilty, Staunton’s, Dan Moloney, Caherbeg, Skeaghanore, Toons Bridge, along with craft beer by Dungarvan and cider from Stonewell.

The Clonakilty Black Pudding featured on my starter, served with Crispy Pancetta salad with celeriac, Pear and Apple Coleslaw. Delighted with that opener, excellent flavours and textures, and CL was more than pleased with her Crisp vegetable and chicken confit spring roll with Szechuan Dipping sauce, another tasty combination.

 It just got better after that. My mains was the Pan-roasted free-range chicken wrapped in Clonakilty Bacon and stuffed with Caherbeg Sausage meat. There was an explosion of flavours here, including a great sauce, and the sausage meat added a bit of herby spice.

The other mains was Skeaghanore confit duck leg with marmalade sauté potatoes and that had CL purring. Another empty plate. Oh, by the way, the included sides of creamy mashed potato and vegetables were also cooked to perfection and very much appreciated as well.

Must call back some day when we have no other eating commitments and get stuck into the A La Carte! 

Amuse Bouche

A-  A happy group of us drank our Patrick’s Pot in Fr Seamus Hennebry’s, the parish priest’s house. We had fresh cod’s head, salted marinated ling, smoked salmon, and fresh trout, with green cabbage and fragrant cheese with our meal. We had white wine, port, whiskey and punch in plenty….

B- We have ‘cobbledy’ for dinner today. It is not right to call it cál ceannann (white topped kale) for there is neither kale nor white cabbage in it, but white potatoes, fresh milk, good salted butter, salt as well, and pepper and onions warming it up. Myself, my children and my poor dear wife are gobbling it up - we have plenty of it, but not too much. 

 from The Diary of an Irish countryman 1827-1835 by Humphrey O’Sullivan. 

Cork International Airport Hotel. Enjoyable Meal At New Yorker

Cork International Airport Hotel

Enjoyable Meal At New Yorker 

Outside the mist-laden wind was blowing and the famous (notorious) Farmer’s Cross fog was making ghostly shapes in the car park lights. But inside at the New Yorker restaurant of the Cork International Airport Hotel, it was a different climate with warming fires and diners tucking in to some lovely food in a very comfortable room indeed. We revisited last Friday and absolutely enjoyed our dinner as we had on previous occasions.

We were soon seated - not too far from one of the fires - and studying the menu, quite an extensive one, based on local produce and geared for locals and travellers alike. We picked from the main menu though there is a very good set menu on offer as well.

They had three specials on the night and CL went with one of those, Smoked Salmon with avocado, for her starter, a superb choice as it turned out as this was a very successful pairing indeed.

And I too was off to flier with the Crispy Duck Spring Rolls, served with an Asian style salad with sweet chilli dipping sauce. This was a delightful combination, light with gorgeous contrasts of flavours and  textures. One to watch for in the future.

The starters had certainly brought the taste buds to attention and two excellent main courses maintained the standard. Moroccan Spiced Lamb Rump, served with Couscous, steamed broccoli, and a Lamb Jus was CL’s choice and soon she was singing its praises, delighted with all the parts.

Mine was the Pressed Slow Roasted Pork Belly and that came with Celeriac potato puree, rhubarb and ginger compote, glazed carrots and red wine jus. The pork had been pressed into a kind of roulade with a herby skim in between. Quite  serious eruptions of flavours here, excellent textures too. Perfect overall, another superb example from the repertoire of chef Hugh Bailey.

The mains had been accompanied by wine from their short list.  The Marques de Plata, Tempranillo/Syrah/ Cabernet Sauvignon blend from Valencia, nice and fruity, went well with the lamp while my Chianti Colli Senesi from Tuscany, aromatic and well balanced, did the job with the Pork Belly.

Service was friendly and excellent. There was a delay with our shared dessert - a Lemon Mousse Tart - but when we pointed it out (no complaint) it soon arrived to smiles all around and indeed we were pleasantly surprised to hear our server say there’d be no charge for it. Good PR for sure and much appreciated, as was the experience overall.

Your Weekend Whites. Trio with Brio!

Your Weekend Whites

Trio with Brio!

Georg Muller Stiftung, Edition PW Riesling trocken, Rheingau 2013, 13% €19.40 Karwig Wines

Colour is a very light gold and there are fruity aromas. On the palate you’ll find concentrated fresh fruit (nectarines, apricots), a slight tingly mouthfeel. Superb, this well balanced wine needs to be sipped and a sip will go a long way! Very Highly Recommended. 

This has the VDP eagle displayed on the neck, “a guarantee of pure wine pleasure”, not a bad start. The stiftung means a foundation and for many years the winery was a foundation for the benefit of the town of Eltville in the Hattenheim region. In 2003, it came back into private ownership. Peter Winter, a one-time boss and long-time friend of Joe Karwig, is the new owner and kept the existing name.

Hugel Gentil 2013, Alsace, 12.5%, €13.99 Bradley’s

This gorgeous wine, an “assemblage” of all the local grape varieties, is Hugel’s best seller, available throughout the world. The grapes are hand-picked and the blend is 15% Riesling, 19% Gewürztraminer, 2% Muscat, 24% Pinot Gris and 40% Sylvaner & Pinot Blanc. Closure by the way is also rather unusual as they us the DIAM method.

Not strong on colour, a light silver and traces of green, and there are attractive aromas (including fruit and floral elements). On the palate, is has a soft and supple feel, is full of flavour, dry and with a great finalé. The well balanced gem is “a delicious bargain” according to Hugh Johnson. Very Highly Recommended. 

Mas Peuch Picpoul de Pinet 2013 (Languedoc), 12.5%, €10.00 SuperValu

Light gold in colour, this aromatic wine, a refreshing mouthful, has white fruit and good acidity. Tart enough but no sign of the lip-stinging. Excellent as an aperitif and fine too with this evening’s sea-bream from Ballycotton Seafood in the English Market. 

Picpoul means lip-stinger in the local dialect and refers to the zestiness and almost salty tang. The grape is often blended to moderate the sting! I have come across some strongly acidic examples but there is nothing extreme in this one; it is moderate and is Highly Recommended.

Taste of the Week

Taste of the Week

Hassett’s Coffee Mocha Mousse Cake

Hassett’s Bakery, already in Carrigaline, Crosshaven and Adelaide Street, have recently moved to the city centre and you’ll find them in the middle of the English Market, right across from the Chicken Inn.

Lots of good things in this little stall, including a big range of breads (sourdough, spelt, rye and more) and chocolate truffles and, of course, their famous pastries. Their small cakes are a huge temptation. Couldn’t resist this little Coffee Mocha Mousse number at the weekend and it is our Taste of the Week.

Top Posts for last 18 months.

Top Posts for last 18 months

Coqbull

Coqbull, with close to 5,000 hits, is the most popular post on this blog over the last 18 months. New restaurants always seem to draw attention and this is reflected in the list below. My own choices may be seen at No.13.

1 Cork's Coqbull On An Early Charge

2 Happy Gaggle of Wine Geese

3 Aroi. Asian Street Food in Cork City

4 Huguenot. New French Bistro

5 The Square Table - Great Addition to Blarney

6 The Sultan of Penrose Quay

7 Happy New Beer at Cotton Ball

8 Island of Asian Street Food at Phô

9 Electric. Easy to Book. Hard to leave.

10 The Chapel Steps Celebrates

11 Taste of the Week: Baklava

12 Dining in Style at Pier 26

13 Top Ten Dinners, Top Lunches

14 Top Wines 2014

Riedel A Winner At Ballymaloe. Can’t Beat A Proper Glass.

Riedel A Winner At Ballymaloe

Can’t Beat A Proper Glass.

We are in the Grainstore at Ballymaloe and sampling various wines in glasses made by Riedel, “the Rolls Royce of glassware”, according to our guide John Hinckley, UK based Business Manager with the company. He takes us on quite a drive!

Glassmakers since 1700, things looked grim for Walter Riedel and his family when he returned to Austria in 1955 after imprisonment in Russia. Their home and factories had been confiscated by the  Czechoslovakians.  But help was at hand. The Swarovski family, close friends of the Riedels, offered Walter and his son Claus Josef a new start in Kufstein, where they took over a glassworks and started producing mouth-blown products in 1956.

Later they started work on wine glasses and, in 1973, introduced the hand-made Sommelier range, the first varietal specific glassware. Other ranges have been added in the meantime - they even make one for Coca Cola and John had it with him in Ballymaloe. 

‘Look at the glasses,’ he said. They're so light, yet so well balanced they never rock." But the sceptics were wondering would one variety really do better in one glass than in another. The doubters soon had their answer in their own hands. It is a glass made especially for Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. We had a classic New Zealand Sauvignon poured into this narrow glass with a tallish “chimney”. 

The Framingham 2014 was instantly recognisable, the freshness unreal and “its distinct fresh taste” helped massively by being in this glass, marked B on our card. Then we poured it into glass A, a big bowl of a thing, and that beautiful aroma had vanished, the fruit smells, so strong in B, were marked absent in A. B was built to emphasise the fruit.

But ugly duckling A  would soon have its day! “It may be the least elegant of our glasses but also possibly the most important glass in our repertoire." Soon it was loaded with a 1er Cru from Burgundy, Ladoix’s Les Grecians 2012.

John: “This is the finest example of its kind, the finest mouthfeel, unique, ripe grapes, a serious wine and needs to be treated accordingly. This is the perfect glass for it”. So we sniffed and sipped and were inclined to agree. Then we poured it into B and that made John’s point for him. You just wouldn't recognise it as the same wine! There was quite a rush to return it to A and soon the happy oohs and aahs were heard again.

Then it was the turn of glass C , specifically for Pinot Noir, the glass quite similar, but with a taller chimney than A. “This wine is not for watching TV,” said John, in between sniffs. “You need to concentrate on it with food.”  And glass C will help do just that, get the best from the wine. We poured it into A. Here the aromas were not great, the elegance had more or less vanished and there was an over emphasis on the acidity. So quickly back to C. 

Dinner at Ballymaloe, Beef Cheek on top!

I guess you could say John and Riedel were winning here and that trend continued with glass D and a gorgeous Chateau Milles Rozes (Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon) from the upper Medoc. A big wine, big flavours, rich, with tannins. John advised pouring just about 100 ml into the 800 ml glass, the better to appreciate the qualities of the wine. 

And then he brought out his decanters, well two of them. And we were now able to compare the wine poured from the bottle against the sample that had been decanted. In a straw poll, it was agreed that the decanted wine produced even better aromas and flavours.

So now, you have to go out and buy glasses and decanters! And it doesn't stop with still wine glasses. They also make glassware for sparkling wines and for many types of spirits but find it difficult to come up with one for spirits with mixers. And of course we all sampled the Coca Cola glass but not the Nespresso glasses. No, not a misprint. They make two glasses for the coffee.

You may read the whole story at Riedel and see the full range. Glasses are on sale locally at Ballymaloe and at Brown Thomas. And if you didn't make it to the Grainstore, there are a number of Riedel videos on You Tube.

Breakfast at Ballymaloe, with a very local buttery treat!

Amuse Bouche

The coffee machine hisses and sputters the final drops….

She opens the refrigerator door… She takes out the quart of skim and pours a splash into her mug. She grabs the plastic handle of the carafe and fills the mug with hot, viscous, bitter, bracing caffeination. She takes a small sip, then a larger one. She tops up the mug, and again wipes away tears.

from The Accident by Chris Pavone

IWFS Launch 2015 Programme at Jacques. Ardsallagh Cheese The Five Course Star

IWFS Launch 2015 Programme at Jacques

Ardsallagh Cheese The Five Course Star

Dessert, with Ardsallagh!

A totally unexpected gift from a travelling salesman started Jane Murphy’s long term love of goats and led to the beautiful Ardsallagh cheese that so many people know and love today.

Back in the late 70s, that insurance salesman in County Carlow wasn’t getting the best of receptions from Jane. During the conversation, he noticed, “couldn't help but notice”, that her children had ecxema and said that goals milk would be a help. Jane said thanks very much for the tip and sent him on his way.

An hour or so later, she sighed as he returned. This time with a gift. He lifted a goat out of the boot, presented her to Jane and carried on his way. She never saw that salesman again but the goat led to greater things, she recalled, as she introduced her current cheeses at the launch of the International Wine and Food Society Munster branch 2015 programme at Jacques restaurant in Cork on Wednesday evening.

With the help of a library book, Jane started rearing goats for their milk. Then she had too much milk and that led to cheese production. Then she had too much cheese and started giving it away. In the 90s they spotted a farm and a large goat herd for sale in East Cork and with the help of her “enthusiastic husband”, Ardsallagh was created.

This small family run business has grown steadily, and you can buy their products not only in local farmers markets, but also in national supermarket chains. Ardsallagh products can also be found on the menu of many well known restaurants across Ireland. The whole family contribute toward the smooth running of the farm and dairy. They use the ladle method, slowly and carefully, making a beautiful cheese that is easily digestible.

Oh, by the way, the eczema cleared up!

The Ardsallagh cheese was highlighted by Jacques with no less than five different plates of it presented, starting off with a Baby Gem Cup with Ardsallagh, apple, green onion, and Highball Orchard Syrup. Next up was a delightful Middle Eastern Beetroot, pureed with a little potato and yogurt and cumin and topped with Ardsallagh and Hazelnuts.

The dishes just got better. The guests were next impressed with Portobello Mushrooms stuffed with soft herbs, red onion, and Ardsallagh with Spicy Granola. No skimping by Jacques and soon we were tucking into the delicious Lamb Cutlet, tapenade, Salsa verde and Ardsallagh.

What would the innovative Jacques team come up with for dessert? Another delicious surprise: Medjool Date stuffed with Ardsallagh, Almonds and a full circle of Blood Orange. A beautiful sweet note to finish the evening.

It was a well attended encouraging launch for the local IWFS committee that consists of Colm McCann (chair), Eithne  Barry (vice chair), Beverley Mathews (secretary), Richard Scott (treasurer) and Billy Lyons (PRO). Next event is the Beer v Wine Smackdown at L’Atitude (Mar 19th), featuring Caroline Hennessy and Colm McCan.

Other events, dates to be confirmed, include A Day (and meal) at Lismore Castle, a visit to the Belvelly Smokehouse, a visit to the Leinster Branch, a summer road trip, a harvest visit to Longueville House, and an Italian Evening at the Farmgate Cafe. Don't forget to return your membership forms to Branch Secretary, Beverley Mathews, International Wine and Food Society, c/o L’Atitude 52, 1 Union Quay, Cork.

See also: IWFS 2015 Programme
Interested? Email iwfsmunster@gmail.com or complete this Contact form

Southern Spice Coming To A Food Near You. Rebel Chilli On The March

Southern Spice Coming To A Food Near You

Rebel Chilli On The March

Just enjoyed a great week on the food front. Just about everything I’ve had on the plate has been enhanced by a touch of Rebel Chilli. Started in 2009, Rebel Chilli was the brainchild of Ken Moore. Having lost his job during the "Great Recession", his passion for hot sauce spurred him to experiment with recipes at his local farmers market in Cork. 

To do is to dare is the motto of the Spurs football club and the Moores (Ken has been joined by younger brother Paul) did and dared and now Rebel Chilli is a household name in these parts. Speaking of dare, have your tried their Chillionaire, their hottest sauce? Mind how you pronounce it and also how you use it!

I’ve started at a milder level, with two samples, Red Sweet Chilli (left) and the Jalapeño and Raspberry jelly, and got on very well with both, even if I have a slight preference for the jelly. My first use of the jelly was with pork steak and I was delighted with the delicious and immediate enhancement and went on to use it with other meats.

The Jalapeno and Raspberry is certainly different and has a unique flavour thanks to the combination of the two main flavours. It has a sweetness which is balanced by the heat from the jalapeños. This pepper jelly is great with cooked meats like chicken, steak, burgers and lamb. It is wonderful with some cheese, especially melted brie! A bit of this in a sandwich is so good that you need to taste it to believe it.

The Red Sweet Chilli is also very versatile and was a success with most of my try-outs, including cheese. This has a medium heat with a lovely strong and fresh flavour from the lemongrass and ginger. It’s great over seafood, chicken, pastas and salads. It’s also great to add to sandwiches, wraps and to use as a marinade or a dip. Add a splash to a curry or stir fry for a burst of flavour. This sauce won Gold at Blas na hEireann last October so it’s quite popular.

I was speaking this week to the owner of one of the shops that sell Rebel Chilli products and was told that the Green Chilli is his favourite, especially with fish and chicken. You can check out all the products, with their new packaging, here.  The products are available from Bandon to Belfast, from Sligo to Dublin. Check out the full list of stockists .

It is not easy going for the Moores. Paul, for instance, is also in his final year at college. But he is looking ahead: “We are a growing food brand and are taking our first steps into the larger retailers like Supervalu at the moment which will allow us to grow even quicker. All the support we get from new and existing customers and people like yourself is very much needed and appreciated!”

Keep up to date with Rebel Chilli on their Facebook Page. 

.

Rebel Chilli, 

48 Halldene Grove,

Bishopstown

Cork, Ireland.

+ 353 (87) 2451925

hello@rebelchilli.com

Taste of the Week. Elderberry Syrup from Wild Irish Foragers

Taste of the Week

Elderberry Syrup from Wild Irish Foragers

Wild Irish Foragers are a farm based family business in Shinrone, Birr, Co Offaly, and frequently seen at food fairs and festivals; their products are also available in the English Market and the Village Greengrocer in Castlemartyr. They will have a stall at the big Shed for the 2015 Ballymaloe LitFest. There is a full list of stockists here.

I always enjoy products from the elderberry tree, even though I often get a headache if I handle the wood itself! So it was on the cards that I’d like this Elderberry Syrup. I sure did, particularly drizzled over the morning porridge. Very flavoursome and my Taste of the Week. The following paragraph is from their own Facebook page.

Elderberry Syrup (Silver Award Winner - Blas na hEireann 2013)

A powerful antioxidant, black elderberries have been used to traditionally combat illness since ancient times and have twice the natural antioxidant capacity of blueberries and almost twice that of cranberries. Rich in Vitamin C. Excellent for boosting the immune system & helps to lower cholesterol.A great preventative against flus etc For health benefits take one 5ml teaspoon per day (a months supply per bottle). Can be taken neat off the spoon or added as a topping to breakfast porridge/ natural yogurt etc or drizzle a teaspoon over a fruit salad.Can also be taken in warm water or added to a black or green tea to make a fruit tea

Also excellent mixed with still / sparkling water (dilute to taste) or as a mixer with white wine or spirits

Both Syrups are a great tonic for both children & adults alike

Check here for a  full list of the products from Wild Irish Foragers, including other syrups, Wild Shrubs (drinking vinegars), preserves, sauces and much more.

Burgundy, Loire, Bordeaux and more

Burgundy, Loire, Bordeaux and more

Feature in SuperValu Sale

Final week of SuperVale French Wine Sale

Vaillons La Chablisienne 2011, Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy, 13%, €20.00 SuperValu French Sale

This is the native land of Chardonnay and this is an excellent expression of the grape, pure and perfect.

Colour is a light yellow and there are complex aromas, including floral and fruit strands. The aromas persist on the palate where you can taste the brilliant purity, the flinty flavours; quite an elegant wine with a long finish. Crisp and mouth-watering, one of the very best in this sale and Very Highly Recommended.

Lorgeril Les Terrasses Viognier 2013, Pays D’Oc IGP, 12.5%, €10.00, SuperValu French Sale

Lovely aromas and a light gold colour. This is one of the winemakers’ “Collection Fruitée” and it lives up to the name. Fruity (peaches, pears), well balanced, fresh and crisp and very refreshing. Recommended.

Bersan Saint Bris Sauvignon 2012 (Burgundy), 12.5%, €12.00, SuperValu French Sale

Colour is light straw, clean and bright, with fruity aromas. On the palate, there is a nice fruity tang, melons and gooseberries to the fore, with good acidity and a crisp dry finish. Recommended.

The area of Saint Bris is unusual; its wines are made from Sauvignon blanc rather than Chardonnay which is grown throughout the rest of Burgundy.

Domaine Balland Chapuis Coteaux Du Giennois Montagnes Blanches 2013 (Loire), 12%, €10, SuperValu French Sale.

This Sauvignon blanc is from Giennois, a little known Loire region and neighbour of the famous Sancerre.

Colour is a light straw and there are inviting fruity aromas. There is a sharp and tingly introduction to the palate, then white fruit flavours (apple, pears, hints of citrus, though apple more prominent on 2nd sampling 24 hours later), all fresh and lively and a good dry finish. Recommended.

Chateau Manon La Lagune, Blaye Cotes De Bordeaux 2012, 13%, €9.00, SuperValu French Sale.

Gironde estuary

This well priced red is a excellent blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30) and Cabernet Franc (10). Many Irish families have holidayed in the Charente campsites close to Royan. Some will have seen the timber hut in the village of La Palmyre selling wines from Blaye which is not too far away in the Bordeaux direction.

A nose of blackcurrant aromas is followed by  refreshing black fruit flavours on the palate, some spice too, with a soft and smooth mouth-feel. Any prejudice I had about Blaye maybe not being good enough because it is in the edge of the Bordeaux appellation geographically, was quickly and pleasantly soothed away, all that before a good finish. Highly Recommended.

Saint Emilion

Les Hauts De Gros Caillou 2012, Saint Emilion, 13%, €14.00, SuperValu French Sale

The wines of Saint Emilion are much better known here than those of Blaye. This is again mainly Merlot (about 65%) and the balance is Cabernet Sauvignon.

Red fruit aromas and the colour is a little darker than the Blaye. In the mouth, there are fruity notes galore in this typical Saint Emilion, good acidity too, of course, all leading to a well balanced wine. Young but drinking really well and Very Highly Recommended.

Piedmontese Steak Highlight of Tipp Top Meal.

Piedmontese Steak Highlight of Tipp Top Meal

Why not putt into the Fairways sometime?

Often had samples of the Irish Piedmontese beef at food fairs and festivals and it was great to be able to order a sirloin steak, all for myself, at the Fairways Bar and Orchard Restaurant in Kilruane (near Nenagh) recently.

And, glad to say, it was excellent, tender and full of flavour, quite a treat, served with a mini-saucepan of serious garlic butter and an excellent selection of vegetables. The meat and the veg were cooked to perfection.

The Fairways - it is near a golf club - is famous for its fish and usually has quite a selection. CL went for her favourite Hake and she too hit the jackpot. Nice selection of accompaniments on the plate too and the red-currants were a surprisingly outstanding contributor. Again, the fish was properly cooked and presentation all round wasn't bad either.

The menu features lots of local produce and, after an unexpected and well received amuse bouche, we enjoyed our starters (each €7.50). CL plumped for the Bluebell Falls Honey & Thyme Goat’s Cheese With Cumin, Baked in Kataifi Pastry, Coriander, Mango & Chilli Salsa. Quite a plateful and a very good one, excellent flavours and nicely presented.

Must admit mine looked like a full Irish when it arrived:  Tournafulla (West Limerick) Black Pudding, Soft Poached Egg, Garnished With Rocket & Bacon Flakes, Gooseberry Sorbet. The pudding was excellent, the flakes a nice touch. A terrific starter and indeed, both plates went back without a speck of food.

No room for desserts though after the excellent courses. The pub/restaurant, a few miles east of Nenagh on the Cloughjordan road, is spacious (over 50 covers) and has lots of memorabilia, some of it golf related but there is much more, including an old postman's bike mounted on a small mezzanine to the side of the bar. Quite a nice place. You’ll get a lovely warm welcome here and excellent grub. Recommended if you find yourself in North Tipperary. Well worth a call or even a detour!

The Fairways Bar and Orchard Restaurant

• Kilruane, Nenagh Co Tipperary
• Lunch, Dinner, Coffee and Drinks
• 06741444
• thefairwaysbar@eircom.net
• www.thefairwaysbar.ie

  
  

  See also: Cloughjordan Cookery School
  Cloughjordan Eco Village