A right royal booze cruise in the Kingdom

A right royal booze cruise in the Kingdom 

Kerry comes up trumps with beer and whiskey.

Always enjoy a visit to Kerry and last week's visit was no exception, even if the weather played spoilsport. 

If you visit only one off licence in the county, then the Carry Out on the Muckross Road is the one. I've been visiting regularly for the past few years and they never let you down. It is well stocked and local beers are prominently displayed. This time I bought a bunch of cans from the Dingle Brewery (Dick Macks), some Tom Crean and Sullivan's Red Ale. As we drove off, the boot already had the sounds of a wine-buying trip on the Loire or the Rhone or Dordogne.

After a very enjoyable private visit in Killarney, we made our way to the Parknasilla Resort, our home from home for the next three nights. More on the hotel and its many facilities here. The drinks list came in for immediate scrutiny and I was delighted to note that they had no less then four craft beers on tap, a lager and IPA from Tom Creans (over the road), a Pale Ale from Blacks of Kinsale and the Red Ale from Sullivans of Kilkenny. It is the first time I've had that red ale on tap and it was magnificent. Sullivans don't dabble in a multitude of styles but the few they produce are top notch.

From Carry Out, Muckross Road, Killarney

Quite a selection also of Irish whiskey, as you'd expect, including the local favourite, the Dingle Whiskey Single Pot Still, a very enjoyable dram indeed. I was one of the early visitors to Dingle where the witty guide, an ex-guard, relieved me of ten of my euro, a fee I was glad to pay after an engaging visit. Good to see how the distillery has come on over the years. On the other hand, it is sad to see the newer Killarney Distillery in limbo but hopefully that will change some time soon.

Dick Mack's IPA

On the third night of our visit, we had dinner in the second of the Parknasilla restaurants, the Eliza Doolittle, named after a character in the George Bernard Shaw play Pygmalion.This is a relaxed place,  the social heart of the resort, and also serves excellent food (lunch and dinner). It is also the hotel's bar and the same drinks list is available here. Our sips for the night included a pint of that irresistible Sullivans and a drop of the Method and Madness Single Malt whiskey.

Excellent seasonal cider at Carry Out, Kenmare

There is so much to do here that you really don't have to travel outside the 500 acres osf seashore and woodland of the estate. But I had a hankering to walk to the top of Bray Head on Valentia Island. The pathway up has been much improved since my last visit but the fog was bad this morning and we had to turn back about two thirds of the way up this usually spectacular walk. On the way down, we stopped in the very friendly Skellig Seafront Restaurant for a scone and pastry and a cuppa and I noted they also sell the Waterville brewed McGill beer. Recommended if you find yourself strolling around Portmagee.

Foggy walk

Also recommended is a visit to Portmagee Whiskey with its unusual domed enclosures that include, a big surprise to me,  a traditional Seine Boat, boats that you may see in competitive action, with 12-man crews, at the Portmagee Regatta, the ultimate race of the season for an "uniquely localised sport". A few years back, a Bantry man told me, as we bumped across an angry bay in his rib, how he crewed one (they are distinctive and may also be called a long boat) from the town. Indeed, I have seen a bunch of them in competitive action once, not in Portmagee but at the mouth of the Bidasoa River as it enters the Atlantic Ocean between Hendaye in France and Hondarribbia in Spain.

The domes of Portmagee Whiskey and, below, the impressive Seine Boat that is displayed here.

We didn't of course forget the purpose of the visit and called to the shop onsite where, having sampled a few, I decided on one of the 9-year olds. Looking forward to trying that in due time.

Glass of Rosé in Eliza Doolittle

The booze cruise wasn't quite over yet and the Tom Cream brewery in Kenmare was our next stop. Here, on Saturdays, you may book a guided tour and hear the story of Tom Crean, Ireland's famous Antarctic explorer and of course taste their award-winning beers, including their latest, an non-alcoholic beer, with the apt name of Last Man Standing.

I've known these beers, brewed by Bill and Aileen, fairly well over the years and stocked up again, just to add to the tinkle of glass in the back of the car. Slainte! Or should I say Santé?

Also on this trip

Meals at Parknasilla Resort a highlight of three-day trip to County Kerry

Turkish Delight In Baltimore Last Saturday. Chef Ahmet conducts a symphony for the senses in Baba’De

Turkish Delight In Baltimore Last Saturday

Chef Ahmet conducts a symphony for the senses in Baba’De

Squid Eriste

At Baltimore's Baba’De last Saturday, presentation was mesmerising, particularly with our opening dishes, the spring rolls and the Squid Eriste and the following plates didn't disappoint either. Of course, while the presentation can dazzle and puzzle, it is what behind it that counts and here every single note was precise, all coming together in a virtuoso performance by the chef and his team.  

Spring Rolls

For us a serendipitous discovery. But this symphony of looks, textures and flavours owes nothing to accident, rather it's the results of years of learning by Chef Ahmet, his insistence from day one on finding the best local produce along with his judicious use of sauces and spices (used more to enhance the flavours than add heat) from his native Turkey. I suppose the serendipity comes in the fact that he did end up here in Baltimore.

West Cork beef köfte 

So what is Baba’De? It is the second restaurant in Baltimore with Chef Dede at the helm, with Maria Archer leading out-front. Dede at The Custom House is just a few steps up the street and already displays two Michelin stars. Baba is still in its infancy but the prodigy has already been recognised with a Michelin bib.

Baba'de-style fried chicken 

And indeed the menu follows Michelin lines, even the shortened one at lunchtime that we enjoyed. There are no starters as such, though you may enjoy Soup (Turkish red lentil - - garlic buffalo yogurt, sourdough, almond & garlic - on our visit) and/or Ali’s Hummus (fresh chickpeas & tomato casserole, paprika & cumin, sourdough).

Baba'de-style fried chicken 

Here you  are invited to pick what you like to begin and then order again and again. There’s quite a wine list here, local drinks too including craft beers, and cocktails of course. As we were driving back to the city immediately afterwards we picked a couple of non alcoholic favourites, the Stonewell Cider and the Fierce Mild beer; neither disappointed.

We started with a couple of dishes from the Sea section including those spectacular Langoustine spring rolls, with basil, sesame seeds, and chilli. A delight for the eye and the taste buds. Next up was the Squid Eriste (pasta served with oregano & red pepper velouté almond), another eye-catching and very satisfying dish. Eriste, by the way, is a type of Turkish pasta. Both dishes were shared, and that was the plan, until dessert!

Another look at the menu for round two and we ordered a couple of dishes from the Pasture section. First up was the Baba'de-style fried chicken (fried buttermilk chicken thigh, spice mix & brown butter dip). Might sound a bit prosaic but once again it was poetry on a plate from the kitchen. And that same standard continued with the amazing West Cork beef köfte with aromatic rice, barbecue beef, pickles, tomato and yoghurt sauce.

Time for dessert

And then to dessert where the sharing arrangement broke down, We were in agreement though that, of the two on offer, it just had to be Annemin sütlaçi (dede's mother's warm rice pudding, brown butter ice cream, hazelnut). We each had one and it turned out to be a great decision. I enjoyed every little grain though I had to promise that I would try and compare it with CL’s version featuring Blackcurrant jam (plenty of it) and a shake of nutmeg - looking forward to that!

We had had our stroll out to the Beacon earlier and, having been well fed and thoughtfully served by the excellent staff at Baba’de, we walked down to the pier and carpark, said au revoir to Baltimore, and were soon on our way home, reminiscing every now and then on that gorgeous meal.

Ferries for Sherkin and Cape Clear

The Beacon, about 30 minutes walk from village.
Five by car.

What we ate: 

Langoustine spring rolls €18

Squid Eriste €15

West Cork beef köfte €16

Baba'de-style fried chicken €13

Annemin sütlaçi €13

More on Baba'De here

Proby’s Kitchen. My kind of restaurant

 Proby’s Kitchen. My kind of restaurant

Proby's, from Elizabeth Fort

When you walk into a restaurant and read the menu and realise that you could enjoy every single dish here, then you know you are at home. That’s the feeling I had when I had “studied” the dinner menu at Proby’s Kitchen last Friday evening. Certainly, my kind of restaurant. 

Cod

And it's jut just the food. It is a welcoming and comfortable place (good space between the tables, nicely lit and with a superbly efficient service, not just efficient but calm and courteous and those so important smiles!

Stonewell. My favourite non alcoholic drink

They offer dinner three evenings a week, from Thursday on. The deal is two courses, starter and mains, for €39.00. If you fancy dessert, it will cost €7.50 extra.

There are seven starters to choose from. I had been looking online at the Salad of Quail or the Stacciatella but in the event picked the Prawn Cocktail, served with their delicious Proby’s O’rly sauce and mixed leaves. That sauce was delicious and I used the bread “for the table” to mop up every last drop. 

Duck

CL, who had earlier narrowed it down to two, eventually skipped Proby's fish cakes for another night and went with the Warm salad of scallops with citrus beurre blanc, another terrific starter. By the way, most (if not all) dishes here, can be made gluten free. Some are vegetarian, some vegan. So something for everybody!

We continued to sip our drinks, Stonewell zero cider (one of of the very best non-alcoholic drinks around) and a Kolonie Dry Riesling,  fruity and light, from the Mosel (also alcohol free). 

Soon, we tucking into our mains. By the way, the mains come with sides. Not just any old sides. We got parsnips (cooked in curry oil, a mild one), green beans and Gratin potato.

Tasty sides

The super standard continued with my  Skeaghanore duck breast with spiced pumpkin puree. I’ve known for a long time of the high quality of the West Cork duck. Enhanced by the Francatelli sauce (invented by Queen Victoria's chef, Francatelli), the duck was even tastier. CL's Fish of the day was Cod and that too was perfectly cooked and served with a red pepper salsa and an outstanding celeriac purée.

No shortage of drinks here. They have cocktails galore. Local brewers and cider-makers (including 9 White Deer - their beers are gluten free - and Stonewell ) are supported, along with quite a few local food producers. Some good wines there too and do look out for the regular specials. There’s an Austrian Grüner Veltliner (by Huber) and an Italian Cabernet Sauvignon (by Tuscany’s Frescobaldi) on special currently.

Opened in November 2023, the principals at Proby's are Marianne Delany  and Denis O'Mullane from Café Gusto & Liberty Grill, along with Pat Browne, formerly of Ballymaloe Cookery School. They say: “Proby's Kitchen shares the same commitment to fresh, seasonal, and healthy food made from scratch, as in our other establishments, with a focus on a shared passion for a sustainable future”. 

The building, a neighbour of St Finn Barre’s Cathedral, was previously used by the Brick Oven, Proby’s Bistro and La Dolce Vita. The Kitchen now serves Brunch, Lunch and Dinner. More on Proby’s here. 

‘The Renaissance of Irish Apple Brandy – A landmark Event Heralds a New Era in Irish Craft Spirits’

‘The Renaissance of Irish Apple Brandy – A landmark Event Heralds a New Era in Irish Craft Spirits’

A new chapter in Ireland’s rich drinks heritage was officially opened in Dublin last week at

The Renaissance of Irish Apple Brandy, a landmark event celebrating the birth of a new

drinks category: Irish Apple Brandy.

Proud Irish Apple Brandy Producers - The Apple Farm, Tipperary; Boann Distillery, Co.

Meath; Longueville House Distillery, Co. Cork; Orr Irish Apple Brandy, Co. Cork; and

Tipperary Boutique Distillery, Tipperary together hosted the first official launch of Irish Apple

Brandy and united in their mission to elevate Irish-grown apples into world-class apple

brandy expressions.

Distinguished members of the Irish food, drink and hospitality sector were treated to a

guided sampling of the four producers’ brandies under the expert guidance of renowned Irish

Food and Drinks Journalist and Founder of the Irish Food Writing Awards Suzanne Campbell

who mc’d the event.

Attendees were treated to a personal account of the origins and distillation process by the

Producers behind each Apple Brandy beginning with Cornelius Traas of the Apple Farm and

Jennifer Nickerson for their collaboration on ‘The 80’ Irish Apple Brandy, which recently won

the Silver Medal at the prestigious Berlin International Spirits Competition 2025.

This was followed by William O’Callaghan from Longueville House who spoke about the

legacy of Longueville House Irish Apple Brandy, which is made entirely on their own estate

from their own cider with their apples grown in their orchard in the Blackwater Valley Co.

Cork.

Quite a line-up!

Peter Cooney from Boann Distillery was up next with an exclusive sampling of Boann’s new

make Irish apple brandy spirit and a further tasting of their established 1848 Apple Brandy

which combines the best of France’s Calvados with Boann’s own triple-distilled Irish apple

brandy.

The event was rounded off with an introduction to the newly released Orr Irish Apple Brandy

by Diarmuid Madden. Orr Irish Apple Brandy is the most recent innovation from the team

behind the highly acclaimed and multi award winning Cork based Stonewell Cider and

Nohoval Apple Wines.

The event finished with a lively Q&A session where the valuable contribution of Irish Apple

Growers was highlighted by all Producers as an important and critical aspect of the Irish

drinks industry at a time when sustainability and traceability is key. This historic gathering

marked a pivotal moment for Irish Spirits – a renaissance not only in name, but in the

dedication to innovation and authenticity that defines Irish Apple Brandy.

www.orrbrandy.ie

www.boanndistillery.com

www.tipperarydistillery.ie

www.theapplefarm.com 

Steak, Stonewell and Swiss Roll. Highlights of a group lunch in Thompsons

Steak, Stonewell and Swiss Roll. 

Highlights of a group lunch in Thompsons

Is your name on that T-bone?

Seven of us met for a lovely lunch at Thompsons in MacCurtain Street last week. The former bakery is one of the leading lights on the revived street and its surroundings, collectively now known as the Victorian Quarter.

My meal can be easily described with these three words: Steak, Stonewell, Swiss Roll. Of course, there was much more on the menu.

The Himalayan salt dry-aged steaks are a feature here, and you pass a couple of ageing cabinets as you enter the large restaurant. Indeed, some were listed on the specials (for sharing), including the T-Bone, "the Rolls Royce of cuts," cooked on the bone. With prices at €110 for 800g and €130 for the 1kg size, our occasion didn’t quite demand spending that much!

Nonetheless, four of the seven opted for steak in various forms, two for Picanha (the Brazilian cut from the top of the rump and surrounded by a thick layer of fat giving tons of flavour) and one for the Flat Iron (cut from the chuck, nicely marbled with lots of beefy flavour, tender and juicy with minimal fat), The fourth steak was McCarthy's sirloin served with dressed leaves, caramelised onions and chimichurri on sourdough plus fries. All the steaks, supplied by Kanturk’s Jack McCarthy, came in for compliments, especially from an English visitor who was astounded by the flavour.

It wasn't just steak, though. Two picked the Ballycotton Fish and Chips (beer-battered Haddock with fries, minted pea purée, caramelised lemon, and tartar), which also went down very well. The Chicken Ciabatta (miso-glazed chicken from their famous Josper oven, roasted pepper aioli, crunchy lettuce, and tomato confit on ciabatta) also impressed. All sandwiches are served with fries, and  Alternative Bread Co. products are used.

There's a full bar here, so there are plenty of drinks, though sadly, the Cotton Ball beers are no longer available. Quite a selection was ordered, but I stuck with the non-alcoholic Stonewell Cider. This is a very impressive drink, perhaps the best of its class. Highbank's Drivers Cider is also excellent but you seldom see it on sale in the Cork area.

The large restaurant is based in a former bakery. 

A tempting Brownie.

Thompson's Swiss Roll was the most famous cake produced at the eponymous bakery back in its heyday—they had installed a multi-purpose sponge plant to cater to the demand. Of course, the roll heads the dessert menu, and, being of a certain age, most of us opted for the Raspberry Jam & Cream rolled in a classic Victoria sponge base served with fresh berries, vanilla ice cream, and chocolate crumb. 

The Swiss Roll, called Jelly Roll in the USA, didn't necessarily start in Switzerland, though the origin is almost certainly there or in neighbouring countries such as Austria. Anyhow, for us, it was what BBC's Good Food calls "the ultimate nostalgic treat". Yum!

At the entrance to an adjacent building, you'll see a couple of photos from the heyday of the Thompsons bakery showing the workers in action. Apparently, they used to produce up to a mile of it every day! Assuming that an individual roll measures 12 inches, I reckon that was the equivalent of over 5,000 rolls per day, 30,000 over a six-day week! Cork certainly had a sweet tooth! Still has, going by our happy punters at Thompsons!

Just one corner of this very large restaurant.

Stonewell Sting. Drink of the Week. Maybe drink of the summer!

Stonewell Sting. Maybe the drink of the summer!

Stonewell Sting Limited Edition Craft Cider, 5.50% ABV, Ballymaloe Food Festival

One of the most refreshing drinks of the summer.

I'm pretty sure I was the first person, aside from the Stonewall crew, to taste this exquisite cider, now our taste of the week. I got that first "sting" at their stall in the Ballymaloe Food Festival earlier this month.

Colour is pale gold, with a few