Waterford Festival of Food. A tasty West Waterford slice

 Waterford Festival of Food. A tasty West Waterford slice

The Hatmaker Hotel and The Farmgate Lismore

A 24 hour visit to West Waterford turned into something of a food trip - most of them do. The annual weekend Waterford Festival of Food began at more or less the same time we landed in Dungarvan on Thursday evening.

Our base for the night was the Hatmaker Hotel, now creeping up to its first birthday. It is based in a beautiful reconstructed heritage building. And is named after the previous occupant's business. The rooms, 16 in all, are incontestably glorious, the spectacular Peacock tail headboards immediately catch the eye as does the statement bathtub in the spacious bathroom.

Dungarvan

There is no restaurant here but the ground floor café bar, with a sun trap of a courtyard, does quite a good job all day long. After a stroll around town, We dropped in just as they turned from café to wine bar. After quite a lunch in Youghal, the menu of sharing boards was enough for us.

Indeed, the one that we ordered, a mix of cheese and charcuterie, was one of the best around and certainly proved sufficient for us. The wine list, short, is entirely French and I renewed acquaintance with one of favourite whites, the Château Turcaud Entre-Deux-Mers Blanc, a delicious blend of Sauvignon blanc and Semillon. 

Sunny terrace at the Hatmaker

The Hatmaker aim to support local and glad to see that they had a few different bottles of the Dungarvan Brewing company’s beer in the chill and I enjoyed my choice: the Helvick Head Blonde Ale. 

We were back there for our breakfast. No cooked breakfast but the continental offering is more than acceptable. Both of us were highly impressed by the Granola Parfait.

Refreshing ale at the Hatmaker

No restaurant in the Hatmaker but the Michelin starred Cliff House is an easy drive away.

A few hours later, we were up on the Vee. On social media the previous evening I had read of a fire at Mount Mellaray but the buildings looked in good nick as we passed on the road from Cappoquin. I read later the fire was confined to furze bushes on a nearby hill.

After enjoying the views from the Vee (quite an amount of fields in the distance were yellow with rapeseed) and after a few strolls (the wind from the previous day had died down), we took the Lismore road, heading for  a Waterford Festival of Food event at the Farmgate.

Bruschetta starter at Farmgate

It was a lunchtime event and was more or less a sell-out. We had booked just a couple of days earlier but all we could get was a counter seat (they are quite an attraction here) at 2.00pm.

The Farmgate is doing well after the move from Midleton. Everybody gets a warm welcome here. It is quite a neighbourhood restaurant, many customers known by the first name. We enjoyed the relaxed ambience, buoyant and bright.

Lismore Castle

A few chats included one about the frequent Local Link Bus that connects Lismore with Dungarvan in about 30 minutes. One server joked that by night the service is known as the Drink Link.

No cavalcade of choices here, just three starters and three mains.  No dessert included though coffee and tea were on the special luncheon menu at fifty euro a head.

Cod

The Farmgate, as they have for decades, support local and that is obvious from the menu. We enjoyed starters of Croquettes of McGrath’s lamb, mint and yogurt dressing on a bed of Roger Ahern’s Salad leaves, and a Bruschetta with Knockanore mozzarella, roasted Irish vine tomatoes, wild garlic and basil pesto. I didn't know they produce Mozzarella in Knockanore (near Villierstown).

McGrath’s Chicken Supreme was one of the main courses, with a white wine, lemon and  Thyme cream sauce, and served with spring onion champ and a carrot and parsnip puree. The same veg came with our other main dish the Baked Cod with a leek and mussel sauce and we also shared a side dish of seasonal root veg along with some green beans. Each plate went back clean!

Soon it was time for the coffee and then a sunny 45 minute drive back  to Cork via Tallow, Conna and Watergrasshill.

Also in this trip: Welcome Lunch at Clancy's Bar & Restaurant Youghal

Trees on the Vee. Spot the yellow of the rapeseed fields in the distance?

Midleton cruise: bakers and booze. Grumpy Bakers now in old O'Donovan's Restaurant

Midleton cruise: bakers and booze

Grumpy Bakers relocate to old O'Donovan's Restaurant

New lunch menu at Cush

Two old friends at Midleton Distillery

Stout haul from Midleton's No 21

Sunny Welcome to Irish Distillers in Midleton

Had a look at the current lunch menu in Cush.
A few changes including the burgers

Stout haul from No 21

Rueben? Don't think so! The sandwich, usually grilled (though not here), was invented by
a German immigrant Arnold Reuben - there are other contenders!

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Close up of Wednesday's Reuben at Grumpy Bakers, showing
main ingredients: Tom Durcan spiced beef, Hegarty's Templegall cheese,
Sauerkraut, also includes Pickles, and mustard mayo, all on wholemeal Sourdough.
Quite a feed. And a very tasty one. 

The Grumpy Bakers have just opened up in the previous O'Donovan's Restaurant (Main Street),
which hadbeen closed since 2020. They have now vacated their smaller premises at nearby
Broderick Street. They operate also in Washington Street in Cork City. Grumpy are already
well-known for their superb Sourdough Breads, their pastries (sweet and savoury) and coffee.
I must admit I was quite surprised to see so many people in there last Wednesday
coming up to lunchtime, some buying to take away but many settling in for a cuppa
and something from the shelves! They have much more room here than in
Broderick Street and it looks as if they will need every square foot.

An "opened-up" view of the very popular 'The Mediterranean’ with
Chicken, House sun blushed tomato pesto, Basil mayo and
Yellow Belly farm leaves on Focaccia. The portion on top right is a Reuben.🍗 

A tempting Focaccia

 

Going to be enjoying my stout this year and underlined this aim with a handy treble
at No 21 Off-Licence in Midleton. Tipperary's Whitefield (our Beer of the Year 2025) is one of the best in the country while 9 White Deer and Dungarvan are also well up in the ratings

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Made a quick call to the shop at Midleton Distillery
and met these two old friends.
Just had to invite them home.

On the craft trail with Tom Crean and Dungarvan Brewing Company.

On the craft trail with Tom Crean and Dungarvan Brewing Company

Tom Crean’s Family Six Magpies Stout, 4.2% ABV, 500 ml bottle, O’Donovan’s Off Licence

“We want to produce beer that doesn’t cost the earth” - Bill Sheppard co-founder

Six Mapgpies Stout from the Tom Crean Family brewhouse is a multi-grain cracker, also a multi-award winner.

It pours black as a bog hole with an inviting tanned Lacey head. You don't have to wait to fill your glass for those traditional caramel coffee aromas as they waft straight up once you flip the cap. And all the early promises are fulfilled in the mouth with a perfect feel. Note also the subtle hops and malts getting together in a smooth dance that ends in the most refreshing way.

A terrific stout which is “all-natural, no additives, chemicals and vegan. The healthy option, drink in moderation…. a traditional Irish stout, triple hopped and reminiscent of stouts before the addition of nitrogen.”

It has been a while since I enjoyed one, and I'm glad that the local O’Donovans have stocked this and other beers from the Kenmare brewery, founded and owned by the dynamic duo Aileen Crean O'Brien and her husband, Bill Sheppard.

The stout combines 6 grain types, but that’s not where the name comes from! So where did the name come from? Brewer Bill was trying to settle on a name when he heard an almighty racket overhead. Looking up to the trees, he saw a bunch of pesky noisy magpies, six in all. He was aware of the old saying about the noisy bird: one for sorrow, Two for joy, Three for a girl, Four for a boy, Five for silver, Six for gold, And, of course, it just went and won gold, twice, at Blas! Very Highly Recommended. The beer, that is, not counting magpies!

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Dungarvan Helvick Head Irish Blonde Ale, 4.9% ABV

refreshingly easy to drink

Our Irish Blonde has a deep golden colour and a soft white head. It’s a well balanced beer with fruit and hops to the fore, the fruitiness in the aromas, the hoppiness more on the palate. “Our blonde ale is not a bland ale,” they rightly declare. It’s a flavour-packed ride all the way to a refreshing dry finish.

They say: Helvick is a great summer’s day drink, perfect for cracking out at the barbeque. Enjoy at cellar temperature (8—14°C) or cooler for a great warm-weather thirst quencher. It’s an excellent beer to pair with food.

And that food? Good with spicy foods, or try it with seafood — the citrus of the cascade hops provides the perfect accompaniment to fish and shellfish without overpowering the flavours. Goes well with a variety of cheese also. Check it all out here.

The craft beer beginner will find some other beers better to start off with but this complex ale, with its firm and bold flavours, will keep the more experienced very much onside. It is much touted as a summer beer but I’ve found it quite the perfect companion in the other seasons. Highly Recommended.

Enjoy at cellar temperature (8-14°C) or cooler. As with all our beers, Helvick Gold contains a vitamin-rich yeast sediment in the bottle which is a by-product of the natural carbonation. To pour a clear pint, pour out in one go and leave the last drop in the bottle. However, this is purely for aesthetic reasons and the sediment is absolutely fine to drink.   

Geek Bits -

Style: Blonde Ale

ABV: 4.9%

Hops: Cascade, East Kent Goldings, Northern Brewer

IBUs: 41

On the craft trail with Dungarvan Brewery and Elbow Lane

On the craft trail with Dungarvan Brewery

Russel Garet
Elbow Lane brewer

and Elbow Lane

Elbow Lane Angel Stout 4.4% ABV, on draught in Goldie

Available in Market Lane restaurants in bottles (all), in draught (some)

A stout made for the restaurants' food!

Great to renew my acquaintance with Angel Stout at a recent dinner in Goldie Restaurant (Cork). 

Elbow Lane’s Angel Stout is one of the best, a superb combination of hops and malt, made with the Market Lane restaurant's food in mind. Both Goldie and Elbow, along with ORSO, Castle Café and Market Lane itself make up the five in the group.

My very first sip the other evening confirmed previous impressions as the roasted malt showed well in the flavour. The hops - Hercules Germany, Pilgrim UK and Willamette USA - go in early in the process, and their bittering qualities make for a lovely balance, a delicious pint and even better with the dishes that follow.

It has a distinct malt character and pronounced hop bitterness, typical of the style. Dark roasted malts contribute to the bittersweet chocolate notes, while a generous hop addition lends to a dry but smooth finish. This stout will suit robust dishes like steak, stews and curries. And I found it went very well with their Oyster Paté, a relatively new dish from renowned Head Chef Aiushling Moore.

Elbow Lane is one of the few Irish breweries that strictly adheres to the principles of the ancient German Purity Law, “Reinheitsgebot”, which means that only four ingredients are used: malted barley, hops, yeast and water. There are no additives and the fermentation of the beer is not artificially accelerated, nor is it filtered – so it is all totally natural. 

Dungarvan Mine Head American PA, 5.5% ABV

 one for your short list

The brewery had a plan as they developed Mine Head. It would be dry-hopped, a process of adding whole leaf hops into the fermenter. This gives more of a hop aroma to the beer and a fresh initial hit of the hop flavours. 

And, with the Cascade hop the only one used, that is exactly what happened.

Cascade, of course, goes hand in hand with the American Pale Ale. Here, you notice it straightaway with that initial hoppy hit in the aromas, rising from an amber body topped by a soft white head. That hoppy hit is easily confirmed by the old finger-in-the-head test - stick it in and suck it!

Then, it is citrus all the balanced way, with a teeny touch of marmalade sweetness later on and that bitter at the end but nothing over the top. A pleasant and harmonious beer indeed. Another one for your shortlist.

Food pairings suggested by Dungarvan are spicy Thai or Vietnamese food, or “keep it American with a burger! Works great with lighter fish or with earthy meats such as lamb or beef. Great with a creamy camembert-style cheese or a tart sheeps cheese. Best served lightly chilled, from 8-12°C”.

The name: Mine Head is a high headland west of Dungarvan; it and its lighthouse form a dramatic landmark on the Atlantic Coast.

Geek Bits - 

Style: American Pale Ale

ABV: 5.5%

Hops: Cascade

IBUs: 38

Brewer Cormac returns to Dungarvan. On the craft trail with Kinnegar and Dungarvan Brewing.

On the craft trail with 9 White Deer, Kinnegar and Dungarvan Brewing.

Brewer Cormac returns to Dungarvan

Good news from Dungarvan Brewing where Cormac (left) has returned to the brewery as Head Brewer and Customer Relationship Manager.

Cormac: “I'm thrilled to be back to join such a passionate and dynamic team. The commitment to quality and community is something that really resonates with me, and I’m eager to help bring our craft beer to even more people. I look forward to brewing new & innovative beers with the team, whilst also respecting the core range of beers people have grown to love over the years. Working closely with our customers to ensure the best possible experiences – Now, that’s something that excites me!”

Kinnegar Devil’s Backbone, Amber Ale, 4.9% ABV, 440 ml can, Bradleys

refreshing hoppy backbone

Amber / Red is the style on the website, amber on the can. Kinnegar themselves: ”A refreshing contemporary take on a traditional Irish red. Versatile with food and equally enjoyable on its own.” And the important bit to confirm its that it is indeed very enjoyable.

My first “meeting” with the Devil’s Backbone was back in 2013 at a The Cove Restaurant in Port na Blagh (near Dunfannahy, County Donegal). It certainly impressed that night as indeed did the other Kinnegar beers that were on sale there, confirming its versitality with food, all going on to become core beers.

It is still an impressive beer. First sip introduces you to its refreshing hoppy backbone and you realise this is a serious drink, pretty robust too, a full-bodied and full-flavoured drink you can’t ignore. A very satisfying bitterness as well (hops are a mix of European and American) and then there’s a lip-smacking dry finish to boot.

Dungarvan Comeragh Challenger Session PA, 3.8% ABV, 500 ml bottle

Floral, light… easy-drinking.

Light and easy drinking, yes, but this Comeragh Challenger has strong flavours as well, the balance provided by the moderate bittering. Challenger hops, all on its own, has indeed given this lovely session beer quite a bit of character. 

This delicate and understated English-style Pale Ale, brewed exclusively with Challenger hops, is ideal for barbeques. At just 3.8%, it’s a sessionable beer, perfect for a session or any occasion where you want a lighter, easy-drinking option.  It is also certified gluten-free and deeply refreshing. Highly Recommended. It is best served at a lower temperature, from 8-12°C.