Top Food and Drink Posts

Top Food and Drink Posts

(12 months to end of June 2014)

Schull Country Market, new to the list.

1 Happy Gaggle of Wine Geese

2 Happy New Beer at The Cotton Ball

3 Electric. Easy to book. Hard to leave.

4 The Square Table - Great Addition to Blarney

5 Dining Al Fresco at Cobh’s Titanic Bar

6 Tapas at The Greenroom

7 The Chapel Steps Celebrates

8 Pride of Ireland Awards 2013/14

9 Dining in Style at Pier 26

10  Jack McCarthy Butchers. An Afternoon in Kanturk.

11 Schull Country Market

Art, Craft and Food Naturally at Ballymaloe

Art, Craft and Food Naturally at Ballymaloe

Palais de Poulets

Ballymaloe is a working farm, producing magic by the moment. I went through the looking glass last Wednesday and, in a few short hours, sampled this incredible place.

With Colm McCan as our guide, we passed the Palais des Poulets and stepped into a one acre bubble where all kinds of vegetables grow organically under the warm shelter. And so too do a selection of vines, though even the enthusiastic Colm knows that more magic will be needed if the fruit of these East Cork plants is to be turned into wine.

A fertile Allen imagination is at work in the calm warm place. One segment of the shelter has a newly laid carpet, of grass. Here later in the month, one hundred people will sit down for the Long Table Dinner, a night of fine food and conviviality.

Under cover clockwise from bottom left:
tomatoes, passionfruit flower, Colm with grapes,
and borage in the herb garden

Many tales illustrate the 30 year old story of Darina Allen’s Cookery School and we mingle with the students for lunch. The starter is pea soup. Sounds mundane enough. But it was excellent and the main course, with the Belly Bacon an outstanding feature, was incredibly delicious.

And the magic was sweetly evident on the dessert plate, emphasized by that natural cream from the Jersey cows, a memory of good times past but very much part of the present reality here in Ballymaloe, provided by six Jerseys that yield the milk for the table and for the students to make their butter, cheese and yoghurts.

Man does not live by bread alone, though I could think of a worse diet than that emanating from the Ballymaloe ovens. Colm now directed us to the gardens, starting with the herb garden, based on the legendary gardens of Villandry. May not have quite the scope of the Loire chateau but Ballymaloe has its surprises, including that unforgettable After Eight Mint (one of many varieties, including Banana and Orange).

Dinner. Check out that Jersey cream on the dessert plate!

Soon we were into the herbaceous border, a magnificent example of the type, and heading for the  Shell House, hardly a house, just a very small building but unforgettable. Here, some 20,000 shells have been artistically arranged (by Blott Kerr Wilson in 1995). You'll never look at mussel shells or scallop shells in the same way again. The gardens and shell house are open to the public and there is a charge.

Back in the main house, built around the remains of a 15th century Fitzgerald castle, part of which still stands, we went down to the wine cellar in the rock on which the buildings stand. Here lay treasure! Colm handled some of the great wines of the world with care and, like a good Corkman, I just looked, eyes and mouth open!

Time now for a reviving cup of coffee and where else would you go but to the tig beag, the roasting house of Mark and Golden Bean, right next to the well known wine and entertainment venue, the Grain Store. Mark was roasting a few kilograms of Ethiopian beans so we waited for the crack and soon we were sampling, via his AeroPress, the freshest coffee we had ever tasted. Mark, by the way, has a new outlet for his excellent coffee and soon you'll be able to buy and drink it at the Princes’ Street store, just opened (02/07/14), by The Rocket Man.

Mussel shells in small sample from Shell House

Now for a little cultural exercise, in the environs of the house and the field outfront. Colm introduced us to Richie Scott, the exhibition's coordinator. Richie would be our knowledgeable guide on the sculpture trail which features a walk into the middle of the cornfield to see some of the exhibits.

Richie first assembled FORM for Mount Juliet last year and now this revised version will be in Ballymaloe until September 28th. There is something for everyone here: some humorous pieces, some severe, large scale pieces and small, abstract and figurative. You may not like every piece but do bring the kids and let them loose; take your time as you walk around and let your eye wander and allow the magic in.

My favourite, in this first walkabout, was perhaps Holger Lonze, especially The Large Seabird. Enjoyed too the quirky pieces, mainly in Kilkenny Limestone, by Eileen McDonagh. And what about that stranded surfboard, high and dry at the base of the big tree? Go see for yourself. No charge.

Almost ready. Mark checks a roast.

After quite a packed few hours it was time to say goodbye. But we’ll soon be back. Already the first date is confirmed. On Thursday, 24th July, at 7.00pm, a Krug Champagne tasting with Nicole Burke, Krug USA Brand Ambassador, will be held in the Ballymaloe Cookery School (note venue). Contact colm@ballymaloe.ie for further details and bookings.

And all that magic? Probably the usual formula: 5% inspiration, 95% perspiration.

Some upcoming Ballymaloe events

Ballymaloe Garden Festival, August 30th and 31st. www.ballymaloe.ie

Feel Good Food: Let’s Cook, one day course with Chef and Nutritionist Debbie Shaw at the Cookery School, Monday July 21st. www.cookingisfun.ie

Master It with Rory O’Connell, Two Day Course which sees Rory teaching a slection from his book. Wednesday Jul;y 30th to Friday Augist 1st.  www.cookingisfun.ie

On the FORM trail.

A Sweet Exception

A Sweet Exception

Chateau Tour de Calens, Graves Superieures 2010.

The big sweet wines of France are pretty well known. Sauternes will top most lists but next door in the Dordogne you’ve got Monbazillac. In the Loire, they’ll boast of their Layon and more. 

But the French do make many sweet wines, not all as intense as those previously mentioned, and you'll find gorgeous and versatile moelleuxs (semi-sweet), such as the white of Jurancon and the red vin doux naturel (naturally sweet) of Rasteau, all over the place.

I was up and down Bordeaux’s left bank a few times recently and, of course, a call to Sauternes (what a tiny little place) was on the cards. Before that though, I made a couple of visits to the Maison des Vins de Graves in Podensac and got educated.

While Sauternes (and its entwined neighbour Barsac) are on the left bank, their wines were not on sale in the Maison. But that doesn't mean there is no sweet wine produced in the rest of the area. Indeed, there are quite a few and they are labelled Graves Superieures.

I got to taste a few of the fifteen they had in stock, including Chateau Rougemont 2006 and Chateau Cherchy Desqueyroux 2011. Enjoyed both and also the winner of their 2013 Gold Medal for the category, Chateau Brondelle 2011.

But the one that caught my sweet tooth was the Chateau Tour de Calens 2010, the category winner in 2012. “This is the exception that proves the rule,” said my hostess as she poured. All the others are from land adjoining Sauternes or Barsac to the east (where you'd expect the Botrytis cinerea mould that gives the sweetness to occur) but the Calens is out on its own in the west. It is produced on the bank of the Gironde in the environs of the town of Beautiran, closer to Bordeaux itself than to Barsac. 

The Doublet family are the producers and offer both Red Graves (75% Cabernet Sauvignon) and White (a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon blanc). In exceptional years, “a few feet of vines, harvested in late fall, allow the development of the Graves Supérieures : a soft sweet wine with a rich palette of candied fruit”.

I bought a few bottles and one made it home. Sipping it now, the €8.80 I paid for the half litre was money well spent. But where will the replacement come from? Pretty sure it is not on sale in Ireland.

* There are a few ways of producing sweet wines. Noble Rot (Botrytis cinerea), as in Sauternes, is probably the best known. The other main method is Late Harvest (Vendage Tardive), used in Alsace for example. Read more on the subject here.

Two drinks events, cider and champagne.

* The multi-award winning Franciscan Well Brewery is proud to host its first Summer Cider Festival from 4^th July to 6^th July. Cider makers showing include MacIvors, Tempted Cider, Craigies, Cork’s very own Stonewell Cider and Little Island Cider and Scott's Irish Cider, to name but a few.   The Cider Festival will open at 2pm on Friday 4^th, Saturday 5^th and Sunday6^th. 
Admission is free.

* On Thursday, 24th July, at 7.00pm, a Krug Champagne tasting with Nicole Burke, Krug USA Brand Ambassador, will be held in the Ballymaloe Cookery School (note venue). Contact colm@ballymaloe.ie for further details and bookings.

Taste of the Week. A cup of joe.

Taste of the Week. A Cup of Joe.

We all love a winner!

Sitio do Rochedo Yellow Bourbon Coffee Lot #22.

Taste of the Week comes from Brazil and this cup of joe has more power and finesse than Jo and Fred, their misfiring World Cup strikers.

While the forwards could well prove me wrong by the end of the tournament, the coffee, the latest offering from the Robert Roberts Connoisseur Club, is already a champion. The Rochedo was an award winner in the Brazil Cup of Excellence 2013, the most prestigious award given to a fine quality coffee.

The Cup of Excellence is “unmatched anywhere for the level of scrutiny”. Over three weeks, thousands of cups are evaluated and only an amazing coffee, such as this, comes out on top. And it is a gem, one that ambushes the morning routine, makes you stop and linger with your cuppa.

Robert Roberts taster Garath Scully agrees with the judges view and I must say I’m enjoying cup after cup of this medium bodied, well balanced and rounded coffee from the Matas de Minas region. Outstanding. Goals change games, Gilesie repeats. Coffee like this can change your day!

Packed Aisles at Cork Kerry Food Fair

Packed Aisles at Cork Kerry Food Fair

Left to right: Sam of Cloudberry Bakery, Crisp makers Sandra and John,
Just Food's Deirdre,and Maurice of Ballyhoura Apple.

Fish seemed to be the main theme as I worked my way through the packed aisles of Monday's Cork Kerry Food Fair, that followed the morning’s forum, in the City Hall. Not surprising that the seas featured so much considering that the two counties have such a long coastline between them.

Let’s start in the east, in Youghal where Yawl Bay Seafoods have set a high standard. They are well known for their smoked fish products, especially smoked salmon, but the one I tasted at the City Hall was their Cooked Irish Crab Claws. Very good indeed. Worth watching out for in their distinctive packages, the map of Ireland prominent in the design.

Just across the aisle I met the family behind Beara Seafoods. Their tasty Mussel Bites were going down well with the punters.

Those of you who eat out every now and then will probably have noticed Irish Shellfish Butter in your dish, maybe in the likes of Fenns Quay or The Weir (at the River Lee Hotel) And not just at home. This amazing product is now being used by top chefs abroad, including one that pairs it with snails. Director James Grimes tells me the ingredients are Organic Shellfish, foraged Dillisk and pure Irish grass-fed creamery butter, all 100% natural. Get your hands on some of this amazing and very versatile product.

The well established Ummera Smokery also had a stand where Anthony Cresswell was under pressure trying to keep up with the demands for his products which include smoked fish (such as salmon) and poultry (duck and chicken).

James Grimes of IASC

The fish theme continued even into the cheese stalls, of which there were quite a few. You know, from a previous post, that I’m partial to Carrigaline Cheese and that was convincly confirmed again when I tasted their Dillisk Cheese. Gorgeous stuff. Other top cheeses on show included Coolea, Durrus and Ardsallagh. The region is amazingly blessed with the quantity and quality of its cheesemakers.

And if Munster people love their fish and cheese, they also adore their sweet things. There were cookies with delicious toppings from Sam and her Cloudberry Bakery. You’ll be able to order online soon but in the meantime, their sweet things are available at the Food Emporium in Brown Thomas. Check out their Facebook page for up to date news and other outlets.

Gorgeous offerings too from Midleton's Bite Size (loved their Portuguese Custard Tart), from O’Conaill’s Chocolate of Carrigaline (can recommend that big creamy bar with cranberries!) and also from Killarney Toffee (much more than plain toffee!).

It wouldn't be Ireland without a bag of crisps. Meant to get a pack of Joe’s Farm Crisps in Midleton last Saturday but drove home without them. No forgetting this time and I have a big brown bag of Beetroot, Parsnip and Carrot crisps on the desk alongside me right now. The crisps are grown and cooked by Sandra Burns at Ballycurraginny Farm in Killeagh and the farm has a regular stand in markets such as Mahon and Midleton.

There was a nod also to the healthy side of eating with Bio Salt prominent. This salt, infused with Irish Kelp (can’t get away from the sea!), is said to have 68 per cent less sodium than regular salt. But you’ll have to wait for it as it won't be on sale until September. Had a few tasters in the City Hall and it certainly seems to have much of the flavour of regular salt.

Clockwise from top left: Coolea, Wicked Desserts, Durrus, Bite Size.

And then there was McCarthy’s Natural Dairy and their well known Lemon Labneh. Now, in conjunction with the Rocket Man, they have some different flavours. I particularly enjoyed the pistachio. Check out these and their other nautural products on their Facebook link.

While it was great to see newcomers making their mark, it was a delight also to meet some of the more established producers such as McCarthy Butchers of Kanturk. Timmy proudly told me they are exporting their Biroldo to Germany. Next it will be Italy! McCarthy's were close to On the Pig’s Back and the ever courteous Isabelle Sheridan, one of the ladies of which local food can be so proud.

Another is Deirdre Hilliard, the founder of Just Food in Cobh in 2004. Check out the site to read all about her widely available soups, made from organic produce. The company, with its kitchens in Rushbrooke, is a shining example for many of the newcomers.

I didn't get to all the stands, sometimes the crowds were just too much. Sorry if I didn't reach you but I’m sure we’ll meet up again at a local farmers market or at another fair like this.

After all the talking and walking, it was time for lunch and I found that just across the road in L’Atitude 51 where a hearty smoked salmon sandwich and a bowl of soup (spinach and potato from Horizon Farms) cost a very reasonable seven euro.

Read, in the press release below, how your local food producers is creating jobs, lots of them!

300 JOBS CREATED IN IRISH FOOD STARTUPS

300 New Jobs To Be Created As A Result Of Irish Food Startups Getting Listings In Their Local SuperValu Stores Through Food Academy Start Programme

·      More than 300 jobs are being created in food business startups as a result of the Food Academy Start programme,  a collaborative initiative between the Local Enterprise Offices,  Bord Bia and SuperValu;

read more..

Dining On the Banks. Excellent River Lee Hotel Experience.

Dining On the Banks. Excellent River Lee Hotel Experience.

Friday evening and we are shown to our riverside table in the aptly named Weir Restaurant in the city centre River Lee Hotel. We are early but soon the large comfortable room fills up; the nearby bar is already full of groups, large and small, enjoying the food and the drinks. Our menu is promising, from regulars such as Roast Supreme of Skeaghanore Duck to specials like the Ballinwillin Wild Boar Chop.

We meet some of the team, including Head Chef Shane O’Sullivan (sometimes it pays to turn up early), and we are left to make our choices. A glass of ruby red fruity French Merlot (Croix des Vents) and CL’s vibrant New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc (Ribbonwood) are sipped as the choices are made.

Great to see so much local produce on the menu and I go for the Panfried Castletownbere Scallops in Lemon foam with a seafood cracker. It is superb. The scallops are as fresh as can be and the Lemon foam, not just for show, plays a complementary role. The other starter, perhaps more substantial, is the Chicken Liver Pate, with Foie Gras and Rosemary Butter, pickled apple chutney and walnut bread crostini, quite an engaging mix of textures and flavours and is also very well received.

The sun gets low to the west and the restaurant team pick the right moment to drop the window shades and so diners continue in comfort. Service here is friendly and knowledgeable, all eager to help.

I get something of a surprise when my main course arrives. The day’s special, the Wild Boar Chop, is rather large! But not to worry, it is dispatched with some pleasure, aside from some of the opulent fat that is left on the plate. The chop is served with steamed asparagus, beetroot puree, sweet potato chips and an amazing warm rhubarb relish. Ballinwillin House is a country house, (with a Hungarian counterpart), near Mitchelstown. Check it out here .

CL often goes for seafood and her mains choice was no exception. Her Grilled Castletownbere Langoustines, the chef’s June Seasonal Signature Dish, was accompanied by a Pea, Asparagus and Seafood Risotto and finished with Iasc Seafood Butter. Another top notch dish.

They serve a great Cork cheese board here but we went for the sweet stuff! And enjoyed it, every bit. My dessert was the Raspberry Tiramisu. Raspberries also featured on the other dessert, the Baked Alaska, one that you don't see too often nowadays. Both were excellent and it was two happy diners that headed off down the sunny street.

Amuse Bouche

Revie would recall how Duncan would wait at the ground...for his young apprentices to return from their day jobs - bricklaying, in his case. He’d then take them to his house - there were usually eight or nine of them… - and feed them with his own special recipe of Scottish broth.

To supplement their diet and build up their strength, he’d also send eggs and sherry to their digs, and big bags of oats so they could have porridge with milk every morning before training.

from Clough and Revie by Roger Hermiston

Chatting My Way Around the Midleton Farmers Market

Chatting My Way Around the Midleton Farmers Market

Filling a few bags as well!

Immaculate King Oyster from Ballyhoura Mushrooms

Looks like quite a few of the traders from the Midleton Farmers Market are heading to the City Hall on Monday for the Cork Kerry Food Forum and Artisan Fair. The afternoon session, from 12.30pm on, is open to the public and you’ll have  a chance to sample and buy the products.

In the morning, there might well be a question or two about rulebook regulation hampering the development of small producers. That was certainly a topic in Midleton on Saturday. There is agreement that regulation is needed but so too is common sense.

Heaven's Cakes

The difference between shopping at a market and elsewhere was heavily and pleasantly underlined for me on Saturday. So many stops, so many chats, even a recipe from one producer. Bought one of Frank Hederman’s smoked mackerel (I know lots of you love the fillets but you must try the whole fish smoked on the bone) and Frank himself gave us a few tips on making the best use of it.

Cobh's Just Food started off at a corner of a stall in Midleton and it was great to see Deirdre Hilliard back in the market and supporting the stall-holders. She’ll be in the City Hall on Monday as will Jane Hegarty of Ardsallagh Goats. I was gossiping away to Jane as she handed out samples and one of them stopped me in full flow. It was a mature cheddar, four years old, delicious. She hasn't much left though and when its gone….

Deirdre’s nieces, Lilly and Roisin Higgins, were ”breakfasting” at the market but I don't think they got too much at all as their kids weren't inclined to leave any of the gorgeous pizza after them! Had a chat too with Lucy from Ballyhoura Mushrooms but forgot (too much gossip going on) to go back and buy some. Next time Lucy!

Mackerel, smoked on the bone.

Bumped into Colm and Aoife McCann from Ballymaloe and Peter Corr of Febvre Wine, and children. Colm is busy as usual lining up great wine events for Ballymaloe and has high hopes for the visit of the amazing Riedel Wine Glasses Show in November. That’s a long way off but there’ll be plenty of tastings and so on in between and we’ll let you know as soon as Colm has confirmed.

Also stopped to say hello to Noreen Conroy of Woodside Farm. They now have two stalls in the market, the second selling their delicious hot food.

We did manage to buy a few other bits and pieces, including (under instructions from Mr Hederman) some Ballycotton spuds from Willie, irresistible strawberries from Rose Cottage Farm  and, of course, bread from Arbutus. Another chat (French themed!) here of course with Declan and Deirdre before we retreated back to the city with one of their delicious Almond and Saffron Rings in the bag. Half of it is gone already and I don't think it will last the day!

Almond and Saffron by Arbutus

Clodagh McKenna's "Homemade" Cookbook Dinner at The Crawford

Clodagh at the Crawford Gallery Café

Homemade Cookbook Dinner

Thursday next 7.00pm

Clodagh McKenna is in Cork City next Thursday for the local launch of her book "Homemade". The launch, in the Crawford Gallery Cafe, takes the form of a dinner, five courses no less, and you get also get a  signed copy of the revised book, all for forty five euro. We got our hands on a copy of the menu and I've booked my ticket.

Reservations essential email crawfordgallerycafe@gmail.com 021 4274415

Ferry Nice Magneau Double

Ferry Nice Magneau Double

Graves vineyards, near Podensac

Came home from the recent holiday in Bordeaux with a stash of wine. Nothing unusual about that! The advice that came it was to leave it rest for about three weeks after its travels. Could have done with three weeks rest myself!

Three weeks without touching the St Emilion and Sauternes could be fairly frustrating, I thought. On the day home though, I spotted (invented?) a solution in the wine shop on the Brittany Ferry Pont Aven. They had a well priced double, a 2011 red and white from Bordeaux’s Chateau Magneau. These are used to traveling, I thought, and so, with that flimsy excuse, the pair were the first to be opened.

I had made the acquaintance of the wines from this Graves chateau in the Maison des Vins de Graves on the outskirts of Podensac and had confidence in its quality. I drank an elder cousin of the rouge but hadn't tasted either of the 2011s. I wouldn't be disappointed! 

On board value, for wines in general, was pretty good too. Can’t find the receipt but the two bottles cost about £17.50 (about 25 euro). If you’re taking the ferry to France this year, keep an eye out for this and similar offers. Staying on dry land? Then, From Vineyards Direct have some interesting Graves here and so too have Curious Wines.

Chateau Magneau Graves rouge 2011

Grape variety here is 50% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. It has spent 12 months in oak casks (1/3 new) for 12 months. It has rich aromas with hints of red fruits and it is full-bodied with an elegant mouthfeel. Tannins are well-blended and all in all it is a very pleasant wine indeed, a good complement for all red meats and cheese and likely to be even better in a year or two.

Chateau Magneau Graves blanc 2011

I do like a decent bit of Semillon in my Bordeaux whites and this, a local gold medal winner, has 40%. The other varieties, both traditional in the blend, are Sauvignon (45%) and Muscadelle (15). This, with complex aromas,  was probably the more satisfactory of the pair, well structured, elegant, fruity with a long lasting aftertaste, the perfect mix of full body and intensity.  A lovely aperitif and likely to be a good match with seafood and fish.

Mine is not the only stamp of approval! Magneau wines are produced under the method of cultivation known as Terra Vitis:  " the stamp of French vinegrower-winemakers who respect nature and Man and who craft wines to please the taste buds."

Taste of the Week. Fresh from the Island

Fresh from the Island - Taste of the Week

As luck would have it, I arrived at the Fresh from West Cork stall in the English Market just as Mairtin O’Mealoid from Cape Clear Farm was making a delivery of his salads, picked early that morning. A couple of bites later - not the Chiellini type - and I was happy I had my Taste of the Week.

The huge bag of mixed salad leaves is great value and fantastic quality. Try it. But do try and get yours hands on some of his other leaves. You've often heard that Rocket is peppery and have often been disappointed when you tasted it. You won't be disappointed with the flavour of Mairtin’s island grown variety. And another one to watch out for is their Thai Basil - unbeatable flavours and aromas (top right in photo).

And it is not just salads. The farm also do flowers, tomatoes, asparagus and other vegetables, all grown using natural methods (earthworms play a major role!). Check the farm out on Facebook above or on their website here.

Sherry Baby. Sorry, I’m Late.

Sherry Baby. Sorry, I’m Late

Missed Sherry Week - didn't have the nerve to ask for one in Bordeaux - but made amends immediately on returning home by opening a bottle of Lustau’s Palo Cortado. Palo Cortado is one of the ten (at least) styles of sherry, coming midway in the range between light and dark, between Fino and Pedro Ximenez, "combining the delicate bouquet of an Amontillado with the body and palate of an Oloroso".

The Lustau Solera Reserva Palo Cortado Peninsula, to give it its full title, is a terrific example of the style. It has an ABV of 19 per cent (usually about 15 for a Fino) and its inviting bouquet is followed by rich nutty flavours.  

I bought mine at Bradley’s, North Main Street. They sell it in a handy 37.5 cl sized bottle - you don't want your sherry hanging around too long. In the “olden” days, the Sherry bottle was kept from Christmas to Christmas. God knows, maybe the postman knows, what it tasted like after five years in the back of the cupboard!  Sherry, presumably in good condition, has been described by Alexander Fleming (the discoverer of penicillin) as the best remedy against disease.

I’ve seen a recommendation, from those that know, that this style, once opened, should be kept tightly corked in the fridge for no more than 6 weeks. No excuse for keeping a 37.5 cl bottle that long though. Unlike other wines, the sherry bottle should be stored upright in order to reduce the surface of wine exposed to oxidation to a minimum.

And oxidation does kick in immediately, so don't put off finishing your bottle. Lots of appropriate moments to enjoy your Palo Cortado. Use it as an aperitif and other recommendations from the folks in Jerez (the only place in the world where Sherry is made) include using it with nuts, cured cheese, cold meats, tuna, game, and stewed meat. Ideal serving temperature is 12-14 degrees celsius.

Now, in which corner of the fridge did I leave that Lustau?