The Farmgate Cafe. Where hearty tradition thrives

 The Farmgate Cafe. Where hearty tradition thrives

Beef Cheek Stew

The teenager remembers the table setting, especially those flowers floating in a bowl. She is sitting with her mother in a room overlooking the Front Strand in Youghal in the mid 1960s. It is the house of her mother’s friend and soon dinner is served. The meat was boiled leg of mutton and the 16-year old was given a bit of the nap of mutton as a treat. 

“I never forgot that meal,” Kay Harte told me some time back. “It was my first time at an adult meal and it was absolutely divine….That was my first realisation that plain simple Irish food can be so sophisticated.”

Kay couldn’t have known then that she would go on to found the Farm Gate Restaurant in Cork’s English Market in 1994 and that the restaurant would thrive on serving traditional Irish food and that particular tradition itself would thrive under her guidance. The Farmgate has now entered its 4th decade with Kay’s daughter Rebecca at the helm.

Cod

The cuisine here is not so much traditional as timeless. As long as local producers and growers maintain their high standards and as long as the café survives then these treasures of the ages will be available to visitors and locals alike in an uniquely Irish tradition, enhanced with new influences in this dynamic multicultural food market and port city experience.

Christmas Pudding

 “A restau­rant rooted in good things and fine tastes, all served with plea­sure and good nature”. Read the review here by famous critic AA Gill  

As it happens, we were in there last Friday week for lunch. We had of course booked in advance. Glad to report that that the good-natured service is still a key part of the experience here. Everyone we met from start to finish was calm, courteous and effortlessly efficient. And one or two were well able to introduce a little humour to break the ice and put the customer at ease.

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On our way up the stairs we read the short list of specials, the traditional stew, fish of the day, soup of the day (apple and celeriac) and also a quiche (which had sold out when we arrived at 2,30pm).

Apple Tart

Once seated in the glass-walled restaurant section, overlooking the floor of the English Market below, the staff filled us in on the specials again with some extra detail. We nibbled at a little bowl of Toonsbridge Atlas green olives and some of the Farmgate's brown soda bread. 

We had been hoping to get some of superb white loaf at the shop downstairs but we were too late. It is very popular towards the weekend and goes quickly! Quite a list of starters included Ardsallagh goats cheese ciabatta, balsamic roasted onions, kale and walnut pesto; Moroccan spiced chicken sandwich, ras el hanout mayonnaise & cucumber; and Toasted sandwich, loin of bacon, scamorza cheese, onion marmalade.

Sometimes you hear: Ireland’ has no food culture. - don't repeat that to Kay!!! Her more gentle response will be to ask you to read Humphrey O’Sullivan’s “The diary of an Irish countryman, 1827-1835 “. Humphrey was an “enjoyer of good food and drink”  and the book records the good food that was around at the time. The hot ticket of a Sunday was to stroll up to the local Parish Priest’s house, once you had an invite of course.  

The book is available in local libraries and, if my memory serves me well, they have a copy at the Farmgate. The main cultural exhibit in café though is “the poetry wall’, which is on per­ma­nent view in the din­ing room. This unique col­lec­tion of handwritten poems, by Cork, Irish and inter­na­tional poets, was com­mis­sioned by the Far­m­gate n 2005 to cel­e­brate Cork’s year as Euro­pean Cap­i­tal of Cul­ture.

Elderflower Fizz

Anyhow, time to return to our lunch. Our top class mains were the cod (Fish of the Day) and the Beef Cheek Stew and, as always, there’s a side of those balls of flour, potatoes from East Cork. Other mains on offer included: Irish lamb stew; Risotto - Ardsallagh Phantom Ash, pea, basil and hazelnut; Braised lentil pie with olive oil mash, roast root vegetables; Free-range supreme of chicken, fennel & lemon sauce; and of course, the old Cork favourite of Tripe and onions with Drisheen, also with Ladysbridge potatoes.

When it came to dessert, there was a surprising "extra" still on offer: Christmas Pudding and Custard. I gave that an immediate nod and it made for a superb conclusion to a lovely meal. By the way, their Bread and butter pudding is a regular and highly recommended.

Dining on the balcony

Fish Box's a winner as we sample the superb fish offerings of Kay’s Kitchen, a new hot food stall in the English Market.

Fish Box's a winner as we sample the superb fish offerings of Kay’s Kitchen, a new hot food stall in the English Market.

Large array of fishy delights

The place may be small, but there's a large array of fishy delights at the new Kay's Kitchen in Cork's English Market. With Kay, fish, and English Market in one sentence, you'll likely guess that the legendary K. O'Connell's Fish Stall (established 1962) has something

Savour the Flavours of Culture Night. After Hours at Cork’s Historic English Market

press release 

Savour the Flavours of Culture Night 

After Hours at Cork’s Historic English Market

Preparations are underway for a vibrant evening of culture and community at the English Market, a culinary hub in the heart of Cork City. This Friday, September 20th, from 6:30 PM until 9 PM, the market will open its historic doors after hours for a

Taste of the Week with Jack and Janet.

Taste of the Week

Jack McCarthy's Pastrami and Janet's Country Fayre Ploughman's Chutney.

Another visit to the English Market and another Taste of the Week, the superb Jack McCarthy pastrami from On the Pig's Back. We also bought some of Jack's

Taste of the Week. Steam Cooked Chicken by the Chicken Inn

Taste of the Week. 

Steam Cooked Chicken fillet by the Chicken Inn

Our lettuce plants didn't get off to a great start this year but now they are flourishing with a second lot rapidly catching up. As a result, salads are regularly on the

Taste of the Week. Tuna Poké Bowl by Maki Sushi.

Tuna Poké Bowl

Taste of the Week. 

Tuna Poké Bowl by Maki Sushi

Back to the English Market for this Taste of the Week, an amazing Tuna Poké Bowl by Maki Sushi. Full title is Ahi Tuna Bowl and it consists of Fresh Tuna, Mango, Avocado Wakame, Edamame and

Tasty barbecue offerings available at The English Market

press release

Tasty barbecue offerings available at The English Market 

With summer finally heating up, the traders at the English Market have been busy preparing and curating the best of local offerings for a sizzling summer feast. 

Below are a selection of traders offering a variety of options to suit all tastes this barbecue season. 

On The Pigs Back

Doing what they do best, On The Pig’s Back has a selection of

Convenient Food from the English Market!

Convenient Food from the English Market!

You want to avoid being stuck in the kitchen on a hot summer's day - and we will have them! You'd prefer to be in the garden enjoying some nice food. 

Here's one suggested meal solution, based on a quick visit to the English Market. "Ingredients" include the always superb Smoked Chicken from Ummera (buy at the Good Food shop). The Sushi is available from the Maki stall. The olives were a present from Spain while the Glenilen Mango and Passionfruit Cheesecake is widely available from various farmers' markets and Dunnes Stores.

Ummera Smoked Chicken is added to

Taste of the Week. Hederman's Whole Smoked Mackerel.

Taste of the Week. 

Hederman's Whole Smoked Mackerel.

Salad days are here. To stay? Well, we did get a few beauties last weekend and should get quite a few more in the months ahead.

When the sun shines, you want to be out, at a picnic by the beach or at a table in the garden. You don't want to be stuck

Farmgate Cafe: A Cork Institution Where Market-Fresh Reigns Supreme

Farmgate Café. Pure Cork. Market-Fresh Guaranteed!

A Cork Institution Where Market-Fresh Reigns Supreme

We Irish may hold a special place in our hearts for lamb stew and potatoes, but sometimes, you crave something a little different. Thankfully, the Farmgate Cafe, nestled above the bustling English Market, offers a haven for those seeking alternative delicious and innovative dishes made with the freshest local ingredients. Still, when I saw the stew and potatoes arrive on a nearby table, I was beginning to have regrets.  

A Legacy of Quality

For decades, the Farmgate has been a cornerstone of the Cork culinary scene. I vividly remember a visit with American bloggers nearly 13 years ago, where founder Kay Harte showcased the magic of Irish cuisine. Her enthusiasm for "balls of flour" – those glorious Golden Wonder potatoes delivered from her longstanding East Cork supplier – was infectious, and the dish that arrived at a nearby table during my recent visit confirmed their enduring appeal.

While the menu was slightly reduced due to the post-holiday Tuesday lull, the quality remained exceptional. My companion opted for the Garryhinch Mushroom Vol au Vent with Walnut and Lemon Pangrattato, a delightful twist on a classic, and the verdict was a resounding "top notch."

I succumbed to the Toasted Sandwich with Loin of Bacon, Scarmorza Cheese, and Onion Marmalade. It was a medley of flavours, the smoky cheese and succulent bacon beautifully complemented by the sweetness of the marmalade. This winning combination, amplified by the equally impressive soup on the side, earned a well-deserved five stars.

Sweet Endings and Market Charm

After much deliberation, the classic Bakewell tart emerged victorious from the dessert debate. Its generous central layer of smooth and delicious plus its topping of perfectly sliced almonds, the ensemble in warm custard, provided a sweet and satisfying conclusion to the meal.

The Farmgate's post-Covid customer queueing system flowed seamlessly. Despite being close to capacity, the atmosphere was calm and convivial. The well-trained servers navigated the space with practised ease, projecting a sense of relaxed efficiency amidst the lively hum of conversation and the inherent buzz of the market itself.

More Than Just a Cafe

The Farmgate Cafe transcends the typical lunchtime haunt. It's a testament to the enduring power of fresh, seasonal ingredients and the importance of supporting local producers. It's a place where generations of Corkonians have gathered to enjoy good food and company, all within the vibrant tapestry of the English Market.

Cork may boast about its good things, and rightfully so, and the Farmgate Cafe stands out as a true gem, a market treasure offering an experience that goes far beyond "balls of flour" (though those are pretty darn good too)!

Cool station in La Boqueria St Josep, Barcelona.

We are not alone though. Quite a few well-loved cafés are located within large markets around Europe, similar to the Farmgate (but maybe without those balls of flour)! Here are a few.

La Boqueria, Barcelona, Spain: This world-famous market has several cafes lining its sides, offering everything from fresh tapas and pintxos to seafood paella and refreshing sangria.

Campo de' Fiori Market, Rome, Italy: This bustling market has several cafes and restaurants where you can grab a table and enjoy fresh pasta dishes, cured meats, and local cheeses all sourced from the market stalls.

Lisbon Mercado da Ribeira, Lisbon, Portugal: This recently renovated market offers a variety of trendy cafes and restaurants, many focussed on fresh seafood and Portuguese specialities like Pastel de Nata custard tarts.

Borough Market, London, England: This historic market is home to a few cafes serving delicious meals made with fresh, seasonal ingredients. Visitors can enjoy everything from a classic full English breakfast to lighter options like salads and sandwiches

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul, Turkey: The Grand Bazaar has numerous small eateries serving  Turkish staples like gözleme (stuffed flatbreads), kebab wraps, and refreshing glasses of Turkish tea.

These are just a few examples, and many other cafes are located within markets all over Europe. They offer a unique way to experience the sights, sounds, and flavours of a local market while enjoying a delicious meal; in that regard, Cork is as good as any.

Barcelona.

Taste of the Week. Juicy Pears from The Roughty Fruit King

Taste of the Week. 

Juicy Pears from The Roughty Fruit King

Calling all fruit lovers!

Today, we're featuring a taste sensation that's sure to tantalise your palate: unsprayed pears from The Roughty Fruit King at the English Market.

While you might be reaching for chocolate this weekend, don't underestimate the power of a gorgeous pear. These juicy and flavourful beauties are bursting with freshness and haven't been treated with any sprays.

Enjoy them your way! Bite right in for a burst of flavour or, as I did yesterday, slice them up for an extra dose of deliciousness. They're also perfect for poaching in red wine for a warm and comforting dessert.

Don't miss out on this taste of pure, unadulterated goodness! Head over to Margo Ann's Roughty Fruit in the English Market and grab your own bag of unsprayed pears today. Fairly priced too, by the way!

Cork's Farmgate Café. Where time doesn't stand still and tradition thrives.

Cork's Farmgate Café. Where time doesn't stand still and tradition thrives

As we queued for lunch behind a small group of French speakers and others on the stairs up to the Farmgate Café in Cork's English Market, we began to get a little worried. You have to reach the top to see how many are in and if there are vacant tables. 

We could have had booked and would have had if it had been a Friday or a Saturday. But this was a Wednesday (after the Jazz Weekend) and we thought we’d be okay. As it turned out we did find a table, just for an hour we were told. There was no rush in the end but I’ll be more persistent on the phone the next time!

The delay was slight, to be honest, and we didn't really have time to study the menu (that had been handed to us as reached the top of the stairs) until we were seated and enjoying two of their breads, including the marvellous white soda that we occasionally buy at their stall downstairs - it is one of our favourite breads in the city.

The menu doesn't change all that much but we were here for the traditional plates - I had already pencilled in the Irish Lamb Stew. CL went for their Chicken Supreme and our dessert was Bread and Butter Pudding. All three are not so much traditional as timeless. As long as local producers maintain their high standards and as long as the Café, now with Rebecca Harte at the helm (having taken over from her mother Kate (the café’s founder), then these treasures of the ages will await you.

But don't worry, there is plenty of variety in the short menu. They are open to outside influences. How could they not be with so much of the market below also enhanced by flavours and spices from many countries and cultures and so you will see Atlas Green Olives, Pork Rillettes, Moroccan spices, and  Scarmorza, sitting on the menu along with longstanding staples such as Loin of Bacon, Ladysbridge Potatoes, Tripe and Onions and Barry’s Tea.

While you are waiting for your food to arrive and or between courses, take a look over your shoulder and see which poet is looking down on you - Seán Ó Tuama's work was at my shoulder. 

In the area, where you can book a table, there is, since 2005, the Poetry Wall. 

An ini­tia­tive of poet Gerry Mur­phy and Kay Harte, it is a unique col­lec­tion of poems, by Cork, Irish and inter­na­tional poets, com­mis­sioned by the Far­m­gate Café to cel­e­brate Cork’s year as Euro­pean Cap­i­tal of Cul­ture.  In 2018 Pres­i­dent Michael D Hig­gins vis­ited and added his own hand­writ­ten com­po­si­tion Star­dust. Where else would you get that with your spuds?

And speaking of spuds, those Ladybridge potatoes are superb, the traditional balls of flour. Quite a few years back, Kay Harte and I were entertaining a couple of high-ranking US bloggers here and they too were bowled over by the potatoes and the phrase. Back in those days, the spuds from the same supplier were stored on the stairs. I don't think that’s the case now but they are as good as ever.

They came, large and floury, to be shared between us. The stew, with a selection of seasonal root vegetables, was superb, just what I expected. CL was more than happy with a beautifully cooked (large) piece of chicken, that too enhanced by the same veg and potatoes. 

Both dishes are very highly recommended by the way. Other choices on the day included regulars such as Tripe and Onions with Drisheen (and those potatoes!);

 Ardsallagh Goats Cheese Ciabatta, Balsamic Roasted Onions, Rocket & Walnut Pesto; Sourdough Sandwich with Moroccan spiced Chicken and Coriander Mayonaise; and a Toasted Sandwich (Loin of Bacon, Scarmorza Cheese, Onion Marmalade). 

A favourite bread!

There were a couple of tempting specials as well: a Chicken, Bacon and Mushroom Pie; and Pan-roasted Hake.  Oh, I almost forgot that Bread and Butter pudding was very enjoyable. As simple as could be, just the basic bread and butter and sultanas in a generous pool of "creamy" custard. Another thumbs up from us for tradition!

Lunch is served from 12.30pm to 15.30pm  (Tuesday to Friday) and the phone number is 00 353 21 427 8134. On Saturday, hours are as above but breakfast from 08:30 and lunch until 16:00. Be sure and check their socials for updates.

Instagram: farmgatecafe

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/FarmgateCafeCork

Web: https://www.farmgatecork.ie/ 

Music and Food and Good Humour Abound as Culture Night takes over in the city.

 Music and Food and Good Humour abound 

as Culture Night takes over in the City.

L'Atitude Beverley and Simone in the open-air kitchen. Their burger,
from the best of local ingredients, was amazing, out of this world! 

The Goldie Angel, in the evening, (from the walls of Elizabeth Fort)

Spic and span modern buildings, the northside in the distance,
from a viewpoint on the walls of the 17th-century fort.

Shandon, with its Goldie Fish, and the tower of the North Cathedral (left)

Ukranians (part of a large choir) sing Danny Boy (and much more) at City Hall.

Mayfield Men's Shed Choir at Cork City Library, Grand Parade.

Mayfield men in full voice!

Lots going on in the English Market with quite a few traders pulling out all the stops, food and entertainment in all the aisles. Found it hard though to get past the Roughty Foodie stall where a varied menu and singer Amanda Neary proved a major draw. While Margo Ann welcomed the visitors out front, Gerry stayed cool, calm and collected in the background.

Heading home after a superb evening in the city.

Greenwich Café Brunch A Perfect Finalé To Cork On A Fork Festival

Greenwich Café Brunch A Perfect Finalé To Cork On A Fork Festival

Eggs Royale: O'Connell's Smoked Salmon, Poached East Ferry Farm Eggs and Hollandaise sauce. The best Eggs Royale I've tasted in a long long time and Evin (of Brunch Cork), at the table with us, agreed. The ingredients were superb. The smoked salmon was a light and delightful surprise, so much better than what you get in many hotel breakfasts, you know those that come with a punchy aroma that dominates everything else on the plate.

Greenwich café chef patron Dermot O'Sullivan supports local all year round at the popular Caroline Street venue. So it was no big surprise to see him do it again with his Cork on a Fork Brunch special last Sunday, fittingly entitled "A Celebration of The English Market with Kinsale Gin". No surprise either to see the event sell out. 

It was quite a gin weekend for us and
the Kinsale version kept up the
standard in this welcome G&T
just after arrival.

CL enjoyed her tasty plate of Irish mushrooms on Pana sourdough toast, Parmesan shavings and slow-roasted tomatoes with basil pesto. Again the ingredients were key. The mushrooms and tomatoes were packed full of flavour and there was no shortage of moisture to soften the sourdough crust. Thumbs up again!

We had recently enjoyed the third dish on this special menu and knew the Strawberry Crumble Challah Bread French Toast using challah bread from The Alternative Bread Company, new season Irish strawberries, whipped mascarpone and oat crumble / or Rosscarbery bacon with maple syrup is another gem from the little kitchen here.

French Toast (from a previous visit)
is a regular on the menu here

Felicity Roberts of the Greenwich team heading to the sunny terrace
during last Sunday's A Taste of The English Market Brunch
 with Kinsale Gin during Cork on a Fork Fest. 
Pic: Joleen Cronin.

Supporting local is ingrained here in Greenwich. Just check out all the local names on the regular menu below.