The Ballymaloe LitFest - not the book, just a few posts.

Welcome to the Big Shed

The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine 
- May 2013 - not the book, just a few posts, all in the one place. 


The First Full Day of the Festival.
Neven Maguire at Ballymaloe
Sunday in the Big Shed
The Ballymaloe LitFest Pictorial
Tastings in the Big Shed
Going Natural - New Trends in Wine

Going Natural – New Trends in Wine

Going Natural – New Trends

A talk and tasting with Mary Dowey and Pascal Rossignol

Topics include Natural Wines, Old Vines, Sulphur and Biodynamic Wine

Philippe Chaume. The Vinsobres estate organic since 1997 and certified biodynamic since 2009.
Picture courtesy of  http://www.provencefoodandwine.com

The Carrigaun Room (in the Grainstore) was full as Mary Dowey and Pascal Rossignol began their talk and tasting with a look at Biodynamic wines as part of last weekend’s marvellous Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine.

Mary thought the move to organic and biodynamic was one of “the most positive sides to the wine world” over the past two decades or so. She described biodynamics as “organics with knobs on" and "some very big names have adopted it”.

Our first wine, to illustrate biodynamic, was the Monte Dall-Ora Valpolicella Classico Saseti (Veneto). Pascal told us this came from a 7-9 hectare vineyard, a recent venture, bought as an almost organic vineyard and then they went bio. “It is all care and attention, hand harvested, all small scale so as not to damage the fruit. Almost a labour of love!” 

Pascal Rossignol

The next topic was natural wines. This is “a new level again”...”kind of controversial”...”up in the air”. But it means as naturally as possible. Practitioners try and recreate the natural balance in and around the vineyards. The timing of the harvest is vital as no additives will be used. “These wines have a vibrancy and a natural balance.”

There are no written rules, no classification, but there are some must follow steps and guidelines:

-          Manual harvest

-          Minimum use of sulphites

-          Quick to winery

-          Sulphites reduced as healthy fruit more able to fight oxidization

-          Babysit the process

Mary Dowey

-          Natural yeasts only to be used.

Pascal: “These wines are alive, really agree with you, more magic in the wine and are noted for their digestibility as much as for their drinkability.”

And certainly that seemed to be the case with our second wine, the Breton Vouvray La Dilettante (Loire 2011). Really liked this Chenin Blanc. Breton are very influential in the natural wine making world and I look forward to tasting more of it on its home ground later in the summer.

Now we were on to sulphites*. These occur naturally in wine but it is the use of them during the process at different stages (including the bottling) that add up and give a problem for some people who may be allergic to them. In the world of organic and natural wines, the purists don’t use sulphites but some others might use just a fraction of what is allowed (by the appellation). 

Our chemical free wine was the Alfredo Maestro Tejoro,Vina Almate Tempranillo (2012). It weighed in with a 14.5% abv “but that was the year that was in it”. The producers felt they had enough rules and regulations to follow in making the wine without also complying with the Ribera del Duero classification system so the words Ribera del Duero do not appear on the bottle.

Old Vines. What's the deal?

“The subject of old vines has been gathering momentum in recent years. But what’s the deal?” asked Mary as we reached that subject. What is old? She reckoned it had to be forty years at least and cautioned that not all varieties benefit from older vines. It doesn’t do anything for Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot but Grenache is well suited.

The main benefit is an “intensity of flavour, really concentrated”. And she had the perfect example, the Chaume-Arnaud Vinsobres (Rhone 2010). Vinsobres is a higher level on the Rhone ladder in any event but this wine, biodynamic and from old vines, is a gem, well balanced, with lovely acidity, harmony and soft tannins. Gorgeous.

Pascal’s wine shop in  Kilkenny specialises in these types of wine and you may check it out here. 

Mary spends much of her time in Provence and, as I know from first hand experience, has a terrific website on the area with great tips on restaurants and food producers. Click here.

* Wine is not the only thing that sulphites turn up in. In the US, the FDA has published this list.

Tastings in the Big Shed

Tastings in the Big Shed

Tastings galore in the Big Shed as the Ballymaloe Literary Festival continued on Sunday: Sherry, Whiskey (and cheese), Douro Wines including Ports and a bunch of Rieslings. Haven’t had this much fun in a barn since sneakily draining a few bottles of porter at a threshing about 1960!

Sherry sorting by Ballymaloe's Colm McCann (right).

Ballymaloe’s Colm McCan is a big sherry fan so no surprise that the famous wines of Jerez featured here. The surprise perhaps was that they were introduced by the Irish Examiner wine writer Leslie Williams who did a superb job.

The tasting concentrated on the Dry Sherry, Fino and Manzanilla. And the big surprise and a delightful one was the fact that a couple of En Rama, including a superb one by Tio Pepe, were included. The great thing about en rama is that the wine doesn’t go through the Solera system but is bottled in its natural state. It is therefore more intense and a bit more complex. But it does need to be consumed within a few months of bottling.

The bad news about En Rama is that you are unlikely to find it in Ireland but do look out for it in Spain. If you do come across it, get yourself a few slices of Iberico and enjoy!

Strong stuff! Holding on to the Power!

On then to the Single Pot Irish Whiskey demo by the folks from L Mulligan Grocers, matched with Irish Farmhouse cheeses. “Everything on the table is from Cork except for the goat cheese.”

First pairing was the Green Spot single malt and a mature (April 2012) cheese from Coolea. We were up and running and beginning to believe in the pairings. That belief was enhanced with the next tasty double, the traditional Pot Still Redbreast matched with the soft, creamy, mild yet zesty Fivemiletown Goat Cheese from County Tyrone.

The next whiskey was the Power’s, “a bit more punch here than normal with an ABV of 46%, a superb whiskey finished in sherry cask (which are expensive)”. If the drink had power, so too had the Hegarty’s Mature Cheddar. This was the strongest flavoured pairing and, on a show of hands, the most popular.

Great Douro line-up, Dows 85 nearest camera.

New glasses appeared as Maurice O’Mahony of Wine Alliance started his demo of wines and ports from the Douro Valley, “a challenging environment that produces great wines”. And he prove his point with two of his own wines, a smooth and brilliant white and an excellent limited production red, both by Quinta du Judeu.

“I love Port”, said Maurice, as he enthusiastically moved on to that section with two fine examples from Nieport. But the star here was to be the Dows Single Vintage 1985, “the top of the pyramid” made in the very year that Maurice did his inter-cert (not verified) and also the year that the very first mobile call was made.

The label on this bottle looked the worse for wear but there was nothing at all wrong with the stunning contents. Absolutely gorgeous and a pleasure to be there to taste it.

Light, in more ways than one: just 8%

And yet more good things to come, all in the name of Riesling and under the guidance of one of the variety’s most genial supporters John McDonnell. “Riesling is not homogenous,” declared the man form Ballyvaughan. “It has many different styles, which can be confusing, from very sweet to searingly dry. Makes it all the more interesting.”

Started off with the full dry style of the Wolf Blass from Australia. Next was the 2005 Trimbach. This had the deeper colour of its age, more texture and richer. But it also had this whiff of petrol that older Riesling acquires. 

Then came the sweeter but very well balanced style of Willie Haag’s 2004 from the Mosel. Just 8 per cent alcohol and “delicious on a warm summer’s day”.

John McDonnell makes a point!

Finished off with a dessert gem: Mount Horrocks 2001 Cordon Cut. The Cordon Cut refers to the way the vines are trained (also used with other fruit a and superbly illustrated by John holding out those long arms!). This is a good intro to the type. It is lighter and cleaner than most stickies (the name Oz gives to its sweet wines) and John says the acidity keeps it fresh and bright.

A bit of a marathon then in the tasting corner of the Big Shed, so time to head off and get something to eat and head for home. What a day. What a weekend at Ballymaloe! 

The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine Pictorial!

The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine Pictorial!

Ger Buckley (left), Master Cooper at Midleton Distillery, shows how it is done.

Great to meet up with Susan Boyle, volunteer and performer.
 Catch her one woman show A Wine Goose Chase (Kinsale July, Cork August)

Just a few of the Wines by the Wine Geese

The Conroy family of Woodside family fed
the crowds with their free range pork and bacon

Kenny's of Galway brought a car load of books!

The Rocketman (left) was flying and here
many tiring punters got the juice to carry on for
another few hours. Super salads!

Emer(left) and Clare meet Neven.

Today in the Big Shed at Ballymaloe LitFest

Today in the Big Shed at Ballymaloe

 Literary Festival of Food and Wine 

Clockwise from top left: Cooper demo; John McDonnell (Riesling tasting);
L. Mulligan Grocer Whiskey and Cheese pairing; Bradger & Dodo new package;
cameo performance by Susan Boyle; Maurice O'Mahony of
Wine Alliance with Wines and Ports of the Duoro;
Leslie Williams on Sherry;
and Pulled Pork Bap from Woodside.

Neven Maguire at Ballymaloe

A People's Person!

I'm very much a people's person
First boy in school to do home economics
Porridge, with honey, cream and Irish Whiskey, is the most popular dish in the restaurant
Food and GIY go hand in hand
Modern Irish now? Local seasonal ingredients in  different combinations with different techniques...not a mish mash....balance...I like to add Asian influences...don't over-complicate it...
Stars not a priority. Happy with Michelin tyres on my car...stars can be a double edged sword.
Look after your key people....respect!

Neven, a terrific supporter of Irish produce (not to mention a host of good causes), is rightly proud of what he has done in that small village of Blacklion in Cavan. He isn't finished yet. Far from it. Next step is to set up a cookery school.
Well done Neven. We are proud to have you. Enjoy your day off today!

Ballymaloe LitFest

Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine

Clockwise from top left: Treats Petit; Bill Casey; Anthony Cresswell of Ummera;
Nevin's cheesecake; Neven Maguire; Graffiti in the shed; Lolo's Breton Crepes;
and Tony Farrell's bowl.

Terrific day in Ballymaloe. So much to see and do, to eat and drink and sample. Lots for the kids as well. And it all goes ahead again tomorrow and Monday. Get the details here

Ballymaloe International Literary Festival of Food and Wine

Ballymaloe International Literary Festival of Food and Wine

Welcome to Ballymaloe from Chefs Rory O'Connell, Darina Allen and Rachel Allen 

Ballymaloe House and Ballymaloe Cookery School, Shanagarry, to host
the first Ballymaloe International Literary Festival of Food and Wine
from 3-6 May.



Leading figures from the world of gastronomy will converge on East
Cork for the first Ballymaloe International Literary Festival of Food
and Wine, to be held at Ballymaloe House and Ballymaloe Cookery
School, Shanagarry, Co Cork, 3-6 May.



Hosted by celebrated cook and author Darina Allen, the festival
promises to delight lovers of food and wine with a feast of over 40
events, big and small, over a three-day period. Its densely packed
programme incorporates cookery demonstrations, wine tastings, panel
discussions, garden and foraging walks, book readings and much more,
showcasing the talents of a galaxy of gastronomic stars.



Among those flying in to participate are:

Madhur Jaffrey, world-renowned for her books and television programmes
on Indian food

Claudia Roden, acclaimed expert on Middle Eastern and Spanish food

Alice Waters, trailblazing founder of the famous Californian
restaurant Chez Panisse

David Thompson, restaurateur, author and eloquent ambassador for Thai food

Stephanie Alexander, one of Australia’s best known and best loved cooks

Claus Meyer, founder of Copenhagen’s Noma, voted No 1 restaurant in the world

David Tanis, prominent American chef and New York Times cookery writer

Joanna Blythman, leading British investigative food writer and broadcaster

Stevie Parle, dynamic head chef at London’s Dock Kitchen

Jancis Robinson MW, one of the worlds’s most respected wine writers



This glittering international cast will be matched by a strong Irish
presence including cookery queen and bestselling author Rachel Allen;
restaurateur and record-breaking television chef Neven Maguire;TV
cook, food writer and blogger Donal Skehan; virtuoso vegetarian chef
Denis Cotter; authoritative food commentator John McKenna; food and
farming expert and Ear to the Ground presenter Ella McSweeney;
broadcaster and historian John Bowman; and Irish Times wine writer
John Wilson.



‘We are thrilled that the festival should attract such an exciting
line-up,’ says Darina Allen. ‘It will give lovers of food and wine an
unrivalled opportunity to meet internationally acclaimed writers in
these fields face to face – and it is sure to result in a wonderful
fusion of ideas.’



The programme for the weekend incorporates over 40 strikingly diverse
events, ranging in scale from major cookery demonstrations to intimate
tea parties. In addition to the main programme, there will be a fringe
festival in The Big Shed at Ballymaloe, offering food enthusiasts of
all ages an array of other activities. Gardeners will rub shoulders
with cooks; foragers with food historians; critics with musicians;
artisan producers with bloggers in a continuous melting pot of eating,
drinking, speaking and thinking.  It will be a place for new ideas,
inspiration, learning and fun.The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food
and Wine is a unique event in a very special place.



 Bord Bia, Irish Distillers, Kerrygold and
Sodexo as the Premium Sponsors for this event.



For more information and tickets please visit www.litfest.ie or call
            021 4646785      . Updates are available on
www.facebook.com/BallymaloeLitfest or @BallymaloeLit .

Coming soon: Bordeaux to Ballymaloe

Visit of Jean-Charles Cazes, of Chateau Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, and the Cazes Family Selection Wines, to Ballymaloe on Sunday, 10th March 2013

The Grain Store, Ballymaloe, 6.30pm, Sunday 10th March €18

Wine tasting & presentation, by Jean Charles Cazes, showing a selection of different wines from the Cazes Family Selection wines, including Chateau Lynch-Bages. Advance booking strongly advised. Special rates also available for accommodation.

Colm McCan of Ballymaloe: "We are delighted to be welcoming Jean-Charles to Ballymaloe, in association with Michael Barry and all the team at Barry & Fitzwilliam. Château Lynch-Bages, needs no introduction in Ireland – one of the best known, respected, collected and followed, of the ‘Irish Wine Geese’ Château of Bordeaux. Born in Bordeaux, Jean-Charles Cazes grew up in Pauillac in the heart of the family vineyards at Château Lynch Bages, and since 2006, taking over from his father, Jean-Michel Cazes, he has been in charge of all the family vineyards, in France and abroad."

 (The tasting and presentation in The Grain Store is followed by a wine dinner in the dining room in Ballymaloe House, with Jean Charles Cazes, showing a selection of wines from the Cazes Family Selection wines, including Chateau Lynch-Bages, at Ballymaloe House 8.30pm €95 **Please note, the dinner is now waitlisted– but please do leave details if you would like to be contacted in case there are cancellations (there are still places available for the presentation |& tasting in the Grain Store at 6.30pm) **)

As part of The Gathering 2013, there will also be a series of other wine events, which are being planned for Cork City and County, throughout the year, with many other ‘Irish Wine Geese’ winemakers from all over the wine world, ‘flying home’ Further details here on this link: www.bringingthewinegeesehome.com

Château Lynch-Bages at Ballymaloe

Château Lynch-Bages at Ballymaloe

Jean-Charles Cazes, of  Château Lynch-Bages, Pauillac, Bordeaux, is coming to Ballymaloe, Sunday 10th March 2013

Colm McCan of Ballymaloe has been in touch with great news for local wine lovers.

"Château Lynch-Bages, needs no introduction in Ireland – one of the best known, respected, collected and followed, of the ‘Irish Wine Geese’ Château of Bordeaux. We are delighted to be welcoming Jean Charles to Ballymaloe – and as part of The Gathering 2013, there will also be a series of other wine events, which are being planned for Cork City and County, throughout the year, with ‘Irish Wine Geese’ winemakers from all over the wine world, ‘flying home’.

Born in Bordeaux, Jean-Charles Cazes grew up in Pauillac in the heart of the family vineyards at Château Lynch Bages, and since 2006, taking over from his father, Jean-Michel Cazes, he has been in charge of all the family vineyards, in France and abroad.

Join Jean Charles at Ballymaloe, for one, or both, of the following events – a wine tasting & presentation in the Grain Store at Ballymaloe, followed by a wine dinner, with the wines of Château Lynch Bages and The Cazes Family Collection wines"

Wine tasting & presentation, by Jean Charles Cazes, at The Grain Store, Ballymaloe, 6.30pm, Sunday 10th March €18

Followed by a wine dinner, with Jean Charles Cazes, in the Yeats Room dining room, at Ballymaloe House 8.30pm €95

Special rates available for accommodation.

Advance booking advised.

Ballymaloe House,
Shanagarry,
Co. Cork,
Ireland

Tel:             00 353 (0)21 4652531    

Contact colm@ballymaloe.ie

Perfect Sunday Lunch Experience at Ballymaloe

Perfect Sunday Lunch

 Experience at Ballymaloe 

Ballymaloe seem always to get it just right. The balance is always so perfect. Did you ever try the relaxed Sunday lunch there? You should. The warm welcome, understated class and under bottom comfort, the perfect easy going service, and, of course, the most natural seasonal foods served up with care and love, ensuring that the quality from the farm and garden is carried through to the table.

They do, however, make sure that you arrive on time. This is a buffet and they want you to enjoy it at its best. So do yourself a favour and arrive a few minutes before 1.00pm, the appointed time. That is the end of the “pressure”, the beginning of a relaxing dining experience.

And you never know who you might meet. A family, kids and all, out for a quite celebration, other groups and couples. And I was lucky enough to meet up with Paulo Tullio. Had a nice chat. He told me he had enjoyed his meal in town on the previous evening and was very impressed with the amount of fish on offer in Cork restaurants saying they don’t get it as much on the East Coast.

After the warm welcome, we were guided to our reserved table. Two adjoining high ceilinged rooms, each comfortable with plenty of space between the tables, serves as the dining area with a long table in an adjoining room carrying the buffet.

But first came the soup course. We had a choice of two. One was Pea and Chill while the other, the chosen one, was the Celeriac. This was a superb creamy tasty warming blend, a promising start indeed.

Then we were invited to fill our plates at the long table. Choices, so many I can hardly remember. Salads, pizza slices, quiche slices, cheese croquets, gorgeous temping vegetables, a fish dish and no shortage of seafood (mussels, calamari, etc), roast potatoes (well it was Sunday) and juicy joints of meat.

I made the lamb the centrepiece of my plate but couldn’t resist adding a little bit of the bacon and its special sauce (lots of sauces). The lamb was juicy and tender and indeed the whole plateful was spot on, all helped on the way by a glass of Pena Roble (Ribero del Duero, Spain). If you didn’t get enough food first time, don’t worry, you are welcome to visit that long table again!

But I was happy enough with my amount and relaxed for a while before the dessert trolley was rolled out. Now I was on full alert again! Quite a few choices but settled for some of the Lemon Roulade and the Apple and Blackberry Tart. Quite a contrast here with the sophisticated mix of the roulade and the rustic crusty tart. Both brilliant!

Time then for a coffee or two before heading out into the Autumn sunshine, weak but welcome!

Sunday lunch at Ballymaloe costs €38.00 per person. 

Outstanding New Zealand Wines

Outstanding New Zealand Wines at Ballymaloe

Sunday afternoon’s trip to Ballymaloe  proved to be a very rewarding one. Not alone did we taste some terrific wines from New Zealand but we were entertained and educated by two of the beautiful country’s top winemakers, Larry McKenna of Escarpment and John Hancock of Trinity Hill.

Ironically both are Australian and went to High School together. They later combined in an early venture in New Zealand before going their separate ways. They are still great friends and a terrific combination at evenings such as this.

While John recognises the importance of terroir Larry, also known as Larry McPinot, is “unashamedly a terroiriste” and tries, very successfully, to emulate Burgundy.

The pair were introduced to the Grain Store audience by Anthony Tindal of the Tindal Wine Company, their distributors in Ireland. John told us that Trinity Hill has been established for just 15 years as he introduced the first pair of his wines.

The first up was the Hawkes Bay Pinot Gris 2011. Beautiful aromas, “Turkish delight!” John said. Even though the wine is a dry one, it has a magnicient texture and fullness and “makes food look good”. This is perhaps the best Pinot Gris I’ve tasted.

Then we tasted the Gimblett Gravels Viognier 2011, another standout wine and again one of the best Viogniers I’ve tasted. Loved its apricot and floral aromas, the rich and soft texture. John recommended trying it with Asian food.

The first of the Trinity Hill reds followed, a Hawkes Bay Merlot 2010, 87% Merlot to be exact, the balance of the blend shared between Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. This, with an abv of 14%, is “more about the fruit. It was a very successful year. This is good value and a great seller in New Zealand. Try it with lamb and rosemary.”

The next wine, the Gimblett Gravels ‘The Gimblett’ 2008, was built to last longer than the Merlot. Is uses the traditional five varieties of Bordeaux (Cab Sauv 43%, Merlot 41%, Petit Verdot 7%, Malbec 6& and Cab Franc 3%). 

“The fruit is from low yielding vines. It is more intense, more concentrated. It is made to age and needs it. It spends 18 months in oak, has good depth, is well balanced and will age for another five years. A food wine!"

All along the evening, the pair had some good discussions and good answers to questions from the audience. Larry told us that almost all the wine is made on the sheltered east coast as the NZ weather comes from the west, just like Ireland’s.

John explained that tannins come predominantly from the skins, also from the seeds and pips, and give the wine that grippy feeling while Larry said that, without tannins, wine has no backbone.

While Larry grows Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Chardonnay on the Escarpment, the site is “a great place to grow Pinot Noir”. It is a bit of a Prima Donna – Larry described it as genetically instable – but he does very well with it, as his four examples underlined.

First up was Escarpment The Edge, Martinborough 2011. “No oak, simple..fruit driven..for immediate drinking.” Simple maybe but still full-bodied and with a lingering finish.

The Escarpment Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2010, was a “step up in quality” “it was a good year, very healthy grapes...we picked when we wanted to pick over a number of sites. This is what we call a district blend and a fantastic example of what we should be doing.”

The first two were good but the second two, each from a single vineyard, were even better, described as absolutely beautiful by Anthony Tindal and virtually everybody else I spoke to.

The Escarpment Te Rehua Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2010, showed how well Larry emulated Burgundy, though his site has its own characteristics of course. Made from 25 year old vines the wine showed unique complexity along with the usual black cherry and plum flavours.

Really good and then came another gem: Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir, Martinborough 2010. “The density of planting in this vineyard, our oldest, is similar to Burgundy” and the wine was ”impressively velvety and supple...huge concentration of flavour...I am very happy with it..and really looking forward to seeing the Kupe in 25 years time!”

Nice stories too behind the labels and you can read all about them here. For more info on John’s wines check Trinity Hill.

Alain from the Vanilla Grape in Kenmare enjoyed his trip to Ballymaloe and he stocks the wines. There is a discount available at present and to see more about the wines in Ireland check Tindal Wines. Remember when using the internet that while a company may have with 100s of wines in stock, they may not all be listed on the site; sometimes you may have to phone.

Cricket, Surf, Wine and Harvest Supper

Cricket, Surf, Wine and Harvest Supper
A Margaret River event at Ballymaloe

 Ballymaloe's Colm McCan tells me they have a special coming up at the end of the month:

"We are delighted to announce this unique wine, food, & sporting event, to take place on Thursday 27th September, at Ballymaloe House which connects two lovely coastal areas of the world - Margaret River, Western Australia and Shanagarry/Ballycotton Bay, East Cork.

Afternoon  - Cricket with the East Cork Cricket Club, in association with Cricket Ireland, who will give a demonstration on the lawn at Ballymaloe, and explain the rules of the game to all. Have a go yourself – ‘learn the basics whilst trying out the game’. There will also be a demonstration on the sport of kite surfing – linking in with the theme of the day – Margaret River comes to East Cork!"

Evening 7.00pm - Wine tasting & Harvest Supper
Enjoy a Margaret River wine tasting & presentation, with iconic Australian winemaker, David Hohnen, in The Grain Store, Ballymaloe featuring the wines of McHenry Hohnen, followed by Wildside’s Ted Berner’s ‘Fire-cooking’ Harvest Supper.

Thursday 27th September 2012 €35
Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Co. Cork
Tel:             021 4652531       res@ballymaloe.ie

Harvest in Ballymaloe

Old Vine special and Ballymaloe event

Beso de Vino, Old Vine Garnacha 2010, Cariñena DO Spain, 13.5%, €9.00-11.00 stockists

I’m a sucker for old vine wines and this medium red, with its aromas of dark fruits (cherry and plum) is no exception. It is a delicious mix of fruit, spice and herb flavours, with an excellent balance and a long kiss goodbye.

Indeed it is a little like that little bull Antonio that gets his pic on all the bottles: forward, but in a nice kind of way. An excellent wine at a brilliant price. Highly recommended.

===============================================================

Ballymaloe Wine Event, next Sunday

 ‘A New Zealand Wine Adventure in Ballymaloe’, Sunday 16th September, 4.30pm

With New Zealand winemakers Larry McKenna, Escarpment Wines, Martinborough & John Hancock, Trinity Hill Wines, Hawkes Bay.

Meet the winemakers, listen to their story, and taste their wines with a wine tasting given by the winemakers. A great way to learn more about New Zealand and its wonderful wines. This Sunday, at 4.30pm, in The Grain Store, at Ballymaloe. € 15 (includes wine presentation and wine tasting). Tel:             021 4652531       colm@ballymaloe.ie

Three Clare champions at Ballymaloe

Three Clare champions at Ballymaloe

Birgitta

Fit for a queen

Met three champions from Clare at Ballymaloe last evening. The first, Skillogalee founder Dave Palmer, comes for the Clare Valley in Australia, while the other two, Birgitta Curtin of the Burren Smokehouse and Siobhan Ni Ghairbhith of St Tola, come from our own County Clare, after which the Australian valley is named. It was a promising line-up and they delivered big time.

Colm McCan of Ballymaloe greeted us all with a Skillogalee Sparkling Riesling. “A very unusual wine, only four or five are made in Oz,” said Dave. “It is light, dry and refreshing and aromatic. It is a properly made sparkler, bottle fermented and aged on its lees.” Great start.

Siobhan

Hard

Ash

Dave then took to the stage at the Grain Store to introduce his two whites for the evening: the Riesling 2011 and the Gewurztraminer 2011. “These are cold climate wines. We pick pristine fruit and try to preserve it all the way through”. These were matched with the soft goats cheeses and the smoked salmon. “Matches made in heaven,” according to Dave. “I think the lemon and lime flavours in the wine is one of the reasons.”

Next on the wine list was the Rosé (a Cabernet Malbec blend) 2011, a rosé “with attitude..brings out the summer berry characters”. Delightful all the way through from its initial beautiful strawberry bouquet.

Two Gold medal winning reds followed as the high standard was maintained: The Cabernets 2007 and the Shiraz 2008. Quality control is vital in Skillogalee and you won’t find The Cabernets 2008. They didn’t make it as the fruit wasn't good enough.

The reds were matched with the St Tola Hard Cheese, just three months old. Very good now, like Gouda, but Siobhan promised it will get better as it matures (more like Parmesan in the end).

Dave

Quite often, the language of wine maker and food producer is the same. They are one and all affected by factors outside their control including the obvious one of the weather. They are one and all dependent on their terroir. Siobhan knows that if she were to transport her 200 plus goats to an inland county that the cheese flavours would be different.

“We have a peaty soil near the Atlantic. The St Tola Log cheese is quite natural, a little fruity, hints of the peat and undertones of salt. The St Tola Ash is made in the same way but in smaller log and is rolled in a food grade charcoal to produce the Ash rim. The Ash makes it stand out on the cheeseboard and keeps it fresh.”

The hard cheese is weather dependent, made only in summer with surplus milk. In a good year, St Tola make it from May to July/August but this bad summer they were curtailed to making it from June to mid July.

It soon became obvious that you really need to know what you are doing with hard cheese. “Timing is very important. If done wrongly, it can even explode!” With its beautiful taste and texture and creaminess, it proved a great match for the Cabernets.

Just like Dave and Diane Palmer, Birgitta and Peter started their Clare business about 23 years ago. Now the Burren Smokehouse is internationally recognised and its products are stocked in speciality food shops in places such as London, US and Kuwait. They too set high standards and their excellence has been regularly recognised and many awards have come their way.

They love their location but even here there are challenges, like the scarcity of wild salmon. She told us the wild salmon is a little drier and the flavour lingers a little longer. They get theirs from a fisherman on the Nore and it ends up in the most unexpected places. Like the Queen’s table, for example. Last year, during the Queen's visit, Ross Lewis choose Burren Smokehouse Wild Salmon for the state banquet. Another honour for Birgitta and company!

Birgitta is Swedish and explained that hot smoking is prevalent in her home country while cold smoking is more common in Ireland. She showed a selection at Ballymaloe, including the Donegal Silver (fresh, sweet and full of Omega3) and the slightly paler Clare Island.

Her Hot Smoked Organic Salmon “is slightly spiced, fully cooked and more meaty.” Birgitta suggested it is a good way to get young people interested in smoked fish though she suspected that “the real fish eaters might prefer cold smoked”.

The Burren Smokehouse is quite a tourist attraction. “Some 30,000 people visit us each year, 10,000 of them from France. Please call in!”

A terrific entertaining and informative evening was drawing to a close but, with Dave Palmer on hand, there was to be a sweet ending, a tasting of the famous Skillogalee Liqueur Muscat, made like a Tawny Port, the fermentation stopped at the right point (the tricky part) leaving a 25% sugar content. Great nose and great flavours, not at all cloying and with a long lingering finale.

Thanks to Dave and Dianne Palmer, to Birgitta and Siobhan and indeed to Colm and all at Ballymaloe.

Gubbeen. “A gentle and fertile corner."

At Ballymaloe, l to r: Fingal and Giana Ferguson, yours truly and Rory O'Connell 

Gubbeen. “A gentle and fertile corner.”

“We are dairy farmers and farm over 200 acres in West Cork, with Mount Gabriel behind us and the Fastnet out in front of us. We have a mixed herd...but are very proud of our Kerry cows,” said Gubbeen’s Giana Ferguson as she addressed those of us privileged to be in the attendance at the Trimbach Wine and Cheese evening in Ballymaloe last week.

It was a very special evening in the Grain Store, so much more than the sum of its advertised parts: wine from Alsace, charcuterie and cheese from Gubbeen and the blue cheeses of Cashel and Crozier. But put these special families together, the Allens, the Fergusons, the Grubbs and the Trimbachs, as Ballymaloe's Colm McCan did, and you have the perfect mix for a few magical hours.

Instructive too. For these family “businesses”, more a labour of love, have a certain honesty and simplicity, not forgetting an abundance of hard work, not just in the day to day tasks, but also in acquiring and maintaining the necessary skills, that put together enable them to reach the highest of standards. They don’t boast about it either but they are a shining example to us all.

Take the Fergusons at Gubbeen where they have been farming for many generations now. Like many farmers, they have cows, they have pigs, they have poultry and they have a kitchen garden. But here, they have been put together in a rather special way by a family who work hard, respect the land, their animals and their customers.

And just like the engaging Jean Trimbach, they too know their terroir: the acidic soil, the salty winds from the Atlantic, the early grass (thanks to the Gulfstream).

They started making cheese in the 70s and these first generation cheesemakers were taking a step into the unknown.

But there was help and support from two of Cork’s leading food families: the Allens of Ballymaloe and the Ryans (now in Isaac’s), a support warmly acknowledged by Giana: "The Ryans and the Allens stood by us and kept us going."

Gubbeen chorizo

And they have travelled a long way, without ever leaving Gubbeen, without ever getting “big”. The add-ons are organic. Their pigs have the best views of any pig farm and son Fingal has taken a keen interest here. He admitted to being “fascinated by meat curing” and is “always looking to learn more in the future” Already, he has over fifty products, most from the versatile pig.

Daughter Clovisse has also added to the productivity of the farm.  She is a bio-dynamic gardener and, with a terraced acre and four tunnels, she supplies several local chefs and is the source of fresh salads, vegetables and fruit for her customers.  Her herbs are the key flavours in Fingal's cures for his smoked meats, and in the summer - if you get down early enough - you can buy her salads at the Schull or Skibbereen Farmers’ Markets.

Parents Tom and Giana have been the pioneers, Tom as the herdsman and Giana as the cheese maker; she also keeps poultry in the yards.  Special people making special food. A regional and national treasure.

• Don’t forget to visit the Gubbeen site here.

Trimbach, family run since 1626!

Colm McCan (left) and Jean Trimbach

Vendanges Tardive 2002

Trimbach, family run since 1626!


Close to four hundred years ago, a Swiss called Jean from the village of Trimbach (not far from Basle) left and crossed the Rhine to Alsace and in 1626 the young man, now called Jean Trimbach, founded the wine business that stills bears his name.

Last night in Ballymaloe, his descendant, also Jean Trimbach, took us through four flights of their top class wines and matched them with charcuterie and cheeses made by two of Ireland’s leading food families, the Fergusons of West Cork and the Furno’s of Tipperary.

There was so much went on in the Grainstore last night that I think I will reserve the Ferguson and Furno stories, even if they do not go back to 1626, for future posts. Watch this space – I won’t delay! Well, except for a family wedding tomorrow.

Jean first showed three Rieslings, “all bone dry”. The 2006 Reserve was “creamy, crisp, refreshing, very versatile with food”. Then came the Cuvée Frederic Emile 2004, named after his great great grandfather: “..dry Riesling at its very best, voted top dry in the world, a serious wine”.


Serious work too he said because of the steep slopes on which the wines are planted. If you don’t watch your step and your bucket while picking, you could well accompany it in a roll down the hill.

The third, the Clos Ste Hune 2004, was a real treat for us. “Just 800 cases for the world. Just beautiful. One of the finest in the world. Collectible. The one to collect right now is 1985.” The match with these three was the Gubbeen chorizo.

Then Jean presented two Pinot Gris, at pains to point out that this was originally a grape from Burgundy and not Pinot Grigio as some people might think. This is fuller, richer, creamier, great with Foie Gras. They were matched with the impressive Crozier Blue (8 weeks).

First was the Reserve 2008, “a bring me home tonight wine and value for money”. Then we had the Reserve Personnelle 2001, which is not produced every year. “This,” said Jean, “was bottled in April 2002 but it looks as if it was bottled yesterday.” It went very well indeed with the cheese.

The next flight was two of the Trimbach Gewürztraminer. Gewurz means spicy, he told us. We first tasted the 2009: “elegance, finesse, focus. Just like the cheese, a beautiful match”. The cheese this time was Gubbeen smoked which also went well with the Cuvée des Seigneurs de Ribeaupierre 2005, a wine deemed worthy enough to pay “homage to the counts of the village”.

We ended the evening with a couple of dessert wines. The Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardive 2000 was paired with the Cashel Blue (14 weeks) while the Gewurztraminer Vendanges Tardive 2002 was matched to the Crozier (16 weeks), both perfect pairings.

Jean explained about Botrytis (the Noble Rot) and praised his brother Pierre, the Trimbach winemaker, as indeed he had throughout the evening, in his management of this dodgy process.

Balance is everything. As the rot sets in, the sugar goes up and so too does the acidity. But at a certain point, they can get out of synch and the winemaker must make his own decision, daily testing, to pick the shrunken fruit at the optimum time. “Sweet yes but think about balance.” I think everyone agreed that Pierre got it right with this pair as he did with all the others.

Next, a surprise as Jean came back to the mike and, accompanied by Ballymaloe’s superb sommelier Colm McCan, treated us to a song. Then we all moved outside to the Wildside Catering barbecue. A superb evening and more about the charcuterie and cheeses in posts over the next few days.

The visit was arranged through Des King and Claire Lomasney of Gleesons/Gilbey Wine Merchants and enjoyed our table chat with them and also with Eileen and Michael Fleming, long time friends and supporters of Jean.