Monday, September 14, 2020

Clonakilty’s Historic Fernhill House Hotel: Lovely Lunch and Visit

Clonakilty’s Fernhill House Hotel: Lovely Lunch and Visit
Salmon


An invitation to visit Fernhill House Hotel in Clonakilty was immediately taken up and we spent an very interesting few hours here, much of it in the company of our host Michael O’Neill, the fourth generation of the family who have been here since the 1940s. The original house itself was built in 1826 and the hotel has grown up around it. And it all sits in the middle of 14 acres of gardens in 3 sections, one managed, another semi-wild, and the other part more or less wild. Michael took us through the house and gardens.


Fernhill has historic connections. The man credited with the foundation of social justice in Australia was born here. His son, Lord Atkin, is credited with the initiation of compensation for civil claims, the famous case of the snail in the bottle of ginger ale. Michael Collins, who lived close by, visited here and, during WW2, the Irish army were billeted here. 


Strong literary connections also, ranging from Margaret Wolfe Hungerford, the Victorian novelist, credited with the phrase “beauty is in the eye of the beholder” to Louise O’Neill author of the bang up to date “Asking for it”. We’ll return to the house and gardens in future posts.


After our tour we sat down for lunch in the bright and airy dining room. The menu was encouraging, full of local produce, from the likes of Gubbeen, Cashel Blue, O’Neill’s Black Pudding, Shannonvale, Toonsbridge, Macroom Buffalo, Michael Twomey, Union Hall, not to mention herbs, veg and fruit from their own garden.


Loads of choices in the starter section. Everything from soup to large plates and also sandwiches and salads and various combinations on offer. 

Featherblade


CL picked the Citrus Cured Union Hall Salmon (shaved fennel and orange, marinated beetroot, mixed leaf salad, orange vinaigrette). Union Hall, another family firm, are highly regarded in West Cork and the Fernhill kitchen certainly made the best of the salmon.


And my Salt Cod Fishcake (chorizo and sun-dried tomato dressing, confit garlic aioli, pickled  mussels) was also excellent. A superb combination of flavour, texture and colour, a class or two above your regular fishcake offering.


The Beef Burger, with Michael Twomey’s Wagyu beef starring, was a very tempting dish on the mains, again quite a list of choices. My pick though was the Roast Agnus Feather Blade of Beef (crushed potatoes, creamed carrot and horseradish, rainbow carrot, jus roti). Very happy with that too, since again the accompaniments enhanced the leading element.

Duck



And contented sounds too from the other side of the table where CL was tucking into her Slow Cooked Barbary Duck Leg (sautéed potatoes, confit onions, buttered Savoy cabbage). Both dishes were excellently presented, nothing too fancy but neat and tidy.


We had seen apples and white raspberries growing in the garden during our tour and they turned up in the dessert menu. The Fernhill Orchard Apple Lattice Tart (served with crème anglaise, Ice-Cream, and apple crisp) made the most of the freshly picked apple while the raspberry appeared in the fruit that came with the Peach Crisp, also served with crème anglaise, Ice-Cream plus a shortbread biscuit. Lovely and warm, just like the sunny scene outside.



If you come here in the winter, or in future winters, the heat you notice originates in the garden. The O’Neills are very much into sustainability. On the walk, Michael pointed to a series of terraces on a slope near the river in the glen. Here, trees are being planted and each terrace will be harvested (and replanted) in rotation with the timber going to the hotel’s wood-burner.

Apple


There is so much going on here…

In the garden alone, you’ll see a stone circle (where Yoga sessions are held), an Ammo bunker from WW2, lots of apple trees interplanted with support plants, permaculture, those terraces of timber, and the impressive wedding facility. The plans of garden designer and artist Mary Reynolds are taking shape here but it is early days yet. You can take you’ll be seeing more and more native Irish flowers, plants and trees. So much to look forward to. 


Read more about the house and its superb gardens here.


BANANAS STILL TOP CHOICE BABY SNACK

 BANANAS STILL TOP CHOICE BABY SNACK




It’s official. For the sixth year in a row, bananas are top of the list for Irish parents when it comes to choosing a snack food for their baby or toddler, according to the results of a National Parenting Product Awards competition.

 

Based in large part on a survey conducted by Millward Brown amongst parents and experts in Dublin, Cork and Limerick, Irish banana importer Fyffes’ popular ‘Freddy Fyffes’ pre-packed bananas emerged as the Gold Award winner in the Food and Feeding section of the competition.

 


Accepting the award at a virtual prize-giving ceremony, which was hosted live online, Fyffes marketing manager, Emma Hunt-Duffy thanked competition organisers adding: “it’s great to see that the natural and nourishing qualities of bananas continue to be recognised and appreciated, especially at a time when parents are so conscious of the food their child.



Press release

Gold on the treble for Kinsale Gin in San Francisco

press release 

Kinsale Gin tops the charts at the International 2020 Bartender Spirits Awards winning gold in three categories


 


 

Kinsale Gin has completely surpassed expectations at the Bartender Spirits Awards in the USA by taking gold across three categories.

 

Kinsale Gin was awarded Gin Of The YearGin Producer Of The Year, and a Double Gold at highly prestigious international awards. This small-batch, premium Irish Gin has been distilled with local botanicals and derives its flavour from the Kinsale country-side. With elegant amounts of juniper, notes of meadowsweet, elderflower combine with aromas of lemon verbena and germanium. Other interesting and unusual botanicals underscore Kinsale Gin's complex personality. Very versatile either in a G&T or your favourite gin-based cocktail.

 

The Bartender Spirits Awards aim to provide independent and honest reviews for brands who are looking to enter the U.S. on-premise industry. The judging panel consists of some of the most renowned names in the U.S. bar industry, all of them with extensive expertise within the on-premise industry. The results serve as a relevant and practical source of reference for bartenders, bar managers, bar owners, and other industry professionals when making purchasing decisions for their establishments, opening many doors internationally for this Cork brand.

 

Speaking about this outstanding achievement for Kinsale Gin, publican and entrepreneur Ernest Cantillon says “We are really delighted with the awards as they couldn’t have come at a better time - we have just launched both Kinsale Gin and Red Earl in the US. These awards are based in San Francisco so the US credibility and press are invaluable.”

 

The competition recognizes that bartenders are the true influencers – their passions and tastes provide direction for the consumer, especially via their guidance with wine, beer or spirit recommendations. “We really wanted a way to recognize those spirits that would be a great addition to any bar and that are completely on-trend in terms of packaging and price,” said Sid Patel, Founder and CEO of Beverage Trade Network. “Whether bartenders are looking to plug a very specific gap in their existing spirits inventory, or construct an entirely new cocktail menu from scratch, what better advice could they get than from fellow bartenders? Medals were awarded to those spirits that meet very specific judging criteria, with a goal of identifying spirits that should become additions to bar inventories. Each spirits brand was evaluated on Mixability, Balance and Versatility, Taste, Mouthfeel and Finish, Package and Price.

 

Kinsale Gin was one of 7 double gold winners which scored 96 and more points. The 2020 competition saw submissions from 34 countries including some new additions like Lebanon, Kazakhstan, Switzerland.

 

‘Covid-19 has had a huge impact on the industry,’ explained Sid Patel, CEO of Beverage Trade Network, the Organizer company of BSA, ‘and when we come out of this, we hope to see a strong rebound in the hospitality sector. The increased number of quantity in 2020 submissions truly demonstrated the faith our industry has in the long term outlook of our hospitality industry’.

 

Kinsale Gin is owned by Cork’s Kinsale Spirit Company - co-founded by Ernest Cantillon, Colin Ross, and Tom O’Riordan - all current or ex-publicans who have spent their lifetimes serving drink and building extensive experience in the hospitality and beverage sectors.

Other drinks in their portfolio include the recently launched Red Early Whiskey, the first of the company’s ‘Battle of Kinsale’ series of whiskeys. The company is currently planning a new distillery for Kinsale, Co. Cork, due to open in 2021.

 

 

 



Sunday, September 13, 2020

Top-notch Gru-Vee on the double from Blank Canvas and Fred Loimer

Top-notch Gru-Vee on the double
 from Blank Canvas and Fred Loimer

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013), 13%,
 €22.99 WINEONLINE.IE LTD; Ely Wine Store, Maynooth; The Corkscrew


Colour is quite a rich gold, with the odd flash of green. Aromas are also strong (yet restrained), exotic fruits (mandarin is mentioned on the label). White pepper also mentioned but didn’t get that, though there was a teeny hint of the diesel one normally finds in Riesling. That spice is certainly present on the fulsome palate along with stunning fruit (mandarin, peach), an amazing mouthful, and an equally amazing and long-lasting finish. Very Highly Recommended.

Experienced winemaker Matt Thompson and partner Sophie Parker-Thomson are the duo behind Blank Canvas and they conducted a recent zoomed masterclass for Liberty Wines. Grüner Veltliner is a relative newcomer to the Blank Canvas portfolio. “It’s fun to make it, totally different,” enthused Sophie. Oak has been used but they affirm that “the subtle influence of new and seasoned French oak puncheons .. provide weight and texture”.

And you may well come across that GV pepper in their Syrah which is co-fermented with 7.5% Grüner Veltliner skins. Matt: “I preferred the white pepper character of the Grüner to the riper Viognier fruit.”

Matt continued: “When I discovered Grüner Veltliner was available for planting in New Zealand, I jumped at the chance to be among the first to produce it. Looking at the similarities between the Austrian and Marlborough climates I know this was a very exciting opportunity not to be missed.”  

The Thompsons have no vineyards, yet, and they choose very carefully where and who they work with. Note too that all their wines are single vineyard.

Check out more details from the interesting Black Canvas masterclass here…. Some very interesting remarks on the use of sulphur.


Loimer “Lois” Grüner Veltliner 2018, 11.5%, 
€18.70 WINEONLINE.IE LTD. The Wine Centre, Kilkenny. Ely Wine Store, Maynooth. The Corkscrew

Colour is an attractive light to mid gold. Moderately intense aromas, fruit (apple, peach) and a herbal spice. Spice and fruit too on the lively palate where a bracing acidity makes the taste buds stand up and pay attention. Very refreshing and Very Highly Recommended.

Interestingly, Fred Loimer uses oak also but to a much lesser extent than Blank Canvas. Here, fermentation is spontaneous, 95% in stainless steel tanks and just 5% in used oak barrels, 2-4 weeks by 20° – 22°C. Ageing: in stainless steel tanks on fine lees for 4 months.

Food recommendations: Rice and pasta dishes with white meat or fried fish
Fred is a biodynamic wine-maker and, interestingly from an Irish point of view, says that “Cow manure is the best you can find for composting.” Cows have their fans across the wine world.  During the series of Liberty Wines organised masterclass, endorsements for our bovine friends by Aurelio Montez (Chile) and Giovanni Manetti (Chianti Classico) were followed up by Fred’s.

“You cannot separate plants and animals, nature works in a holistic way, together they have composted over the years to create the soil we have today,” said Fred. Biodiversity is another essential plank. “Monoculture is a big problem today. It is necessary to create as much biodiversity as possible. Not one hundred percent vineyard but always bushes, trees and grassland over the whole area.”

“Herbicide is a disaster. There is life in our soil. Always something going on, even in a small square, something like 60,000 lives in there, all doing something. We cover our soils, green cover, blooming cover. Our own compost is getting better and we spread it in the autumn…”

Check out more details from the very interesting Loimer masterclass here, terrific insights into the nuts and bolts of the biodynamic vineyard.

Saturday, September 12, 2020

World’s Best World Beer Award for Sunburnt Irish Red

 World’s Best World Beer Award for Sunburnt Irish Red


 

World’s Best Pale Amber for Sunburnt Irish Red, Gold for Citra Single Hop IPA, Bronze for Full Irish Single Malt IPA and Black Ball Metric Stout at the 2020 World Beer Awards


It's just been announced that Eight Degrees Brewing's Sunburnt Irish Red has been named World's Best Pale Amber at this year’s World Beer Awards. 


“We’re delighted with the news,” said Eight Degrees founders Cam Wallace and Scott Baigent. “Sunburnt Irish Red is the second beer that we ever brewed - back in 2011 - and it’s been a core part of our range ever since.”  


The verdict on the beer from a panel of international respected judges was: "Dry, a distinctly deep coppery red in colour, and full-bodied with a good head. There are some bitter, burnt raisin aromas, and it’s distinctly hoppy but with malts still present. Very assertive on the palate, with light carbonation and multi-layered flavours." 


Citra Single Hop IPA was chosen as a Gold Medalist in the highly competitive IPA category.


Eight Degrees also took Bronze for Full Irish Single Malt IPA and Black Ball Metric Stout.

 

The World Beer Awards’ judges tasted through more than 2,200 entries from over 50 countries in 2020. The judges blind tasted and scored the entries across three rounds of judging. Traditionally, all tastings are held in person, but this year the beers were brought to the judges. Black-wrapped and sent across Europe, Asia, Canada and Brazil, the judges tasted the beers at home and connected for each session over Zoom.

Amuse Bouche

 


The tea overflowed the cup and gushed over the edges of the saucer Marjan was holding. With a noisy clatter, she released the samovar’s lever… The commotion.. did not wake Father Mahoney from his own reverie. He was brewing softly over his abgusht, his round cheeks rosy and full of life. Marjan finished cleaning the spill tea and leaned against the counter, not wanting to disturb the priest. She understood exactly what was happening to Father Mahoney.


from Pomegranate Soup by Marsha Mehran (2005). Highly Recommended

Thursday, September 10, 2020

Taste of the Week. Hederman's Smoked Mackerel

Taste of the Week

Hederman's Smoked Mackerel

Frittata with Hederman's Smoked Mackerel

You get some excellent examples of the Spanish Frittata in the local Cork restaurants. But sometimes, it can be a bit on the bland side.


Whole Smoked Mackerel by Hederman, also delicious

If you're cooking one at home, here's one surefire way to pump up the flavour factor. Use a couple or three of the delicious Smoked Mackerel fillets from Frank Hederman, available in his stall at the English Market and in various farmers markets (eg Midleton).

Hedderman mackerel fillets

The official Blog Chef recently did one and the smoked mackerel (
one fillet was plain, one chilli and one chive) worked a treat. We got our latest lot via Neighbourfood (six is the minimum order here but, don't worry, you'll get through them quickly). A superb Taste of the Week.

Check out NeighbourFood and check out Mr Hederman!

Wednesday, September 9, 2020

Sparkling Guest At Supervalu French Wine Sale




Sparkling Guest At Supervalu French Wine Sale
Simonnet-Febvre Crémant De Bourgogne (AOC) Brut NV, 12%, €24.59 (29.50) SuperValu

Delighted to see this Crémant featuring as a Guest Wine in the current Supervalu French Wine Sale that runs until September 23rd.
Sometimes, those of us who regularly dabble in wine assume that other people, who may not dabble as much, will recognise all the terms. Take Crémant, for example, and Methode Traditionelle.Delighted to see this Crémant featuring as a Guest Wine in the current Supervalu French Wine Salethan runs until September 23rd.
Crémant is the term used to classify French sparkling wines produced, using the Méthode Traditionelle, outside the boundaries of the Champagne region. The method, also known (within Champagne) as méthode champenoise, involves disgorgement and a second fermentation in the bottle and you can read more here.  

With that out of the way, let us get into this one from Chablis in Burgundy. Not alone is it made in the traditional way but two of the usual Champagne grapes, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, are used here to give quite a lovely sparkling wine.  
Toasty fruity rather intense aromas are followed by a dry (brut) creamy palate - it has spent quite a spell on lees. It is deliciously complex with fruit and biscuity flavours and that long dry finish. Recommended serving temperature is between 6° and 8°C.
Quite good then on its own, as an aperitif (chilled if you prefer) and it may also be used in cocktails. Kir is one famous French drink, the basic one mixing Creme de Cassis with white wine. Move up a step now to the Kir Royale where the blackcurrant liqueur may be added to champagne or to this crémant. 
And I’ve taken it a step higher recently with a French Liqueur called Chambord, named after a very large royal chateau in the Loire Valley. Chambord is a “black raspberry” liqueur and may be used in a variety of cocktails - there’s usually a bunch of recipes tied to the neck of the bottle. But my current favourite is the Kir Chambord where you mix one part of the Loire drink to six parts of sparkling wine and this Crémant certainly fits the bill. Salut!
Of course, Bordeaux and the Loire also have their own sparkling wines but many of the French crémants, there are 9 or 10 in all, come from the eastern half of the country, including this one; others to note here, near the mountains, are Alsace and Jura.
* If you’d prefer champagne, or if you’d like to do a head to head with the crémant, why not pick up a bottle of the Pierre Darcys champagne, also reduced (from 29.50 to 22.62).

Georges Duboeuf Moulin-A-Vent (AOP) 2018, 13%, €11.80 (18.68).



Georges Duboeuf is known for its long-term drive to popularise Beaujolais wines. In the 1970s, Georges Duboeuf himself pushed and publicised the popular November event “Beaujolais Nouveau”. He is, of course, a major producer, not alone of Nouveau but throughout the region. No wonder he has been granted "titles" such as Le Roi du Beaujolais (The King of Beaujolais) and Pape du Beaujolais (Pope of Beaujolais).

This particular Beaujolais has a mid to dark ruby robe. Black berried fruit mainly on the nose, floral (violet) notes too. Beautiful on the palate: juice, fruit, those floral notes again and some spice too and that deliciousness continues right through to the finalé. This is a wine - a terrific food wine - that makes your taste buds sit up and take notice.

“Good Beaujolais is delicious: mineral, focussed, with fruit of raspberries, black pepper, cherries; it's never overstated or blockbusting, but it has character, balanced acidity, lightness and freshness”. Reckon Oz Clarke and Margaret Rand got it more or less correct there. And Supervalu have an excellent example here. At an excellent price too.


According to Wine-Searcher, “Moulin-a-Vent is arguably the most noteworthy of the ten Beaujolais crus, located in the very north of the Beaujolais region. Moulin-a-Vent wines, made from the Gamay grape variety, are known for being some of the most concentrated and tannic made in Beaujolais, a far cry from the light, simple Beaujolais Nouveau wines.” Gamay and granite go well together and there is no shortage of the ancient stone in the area.

Other Wines in the Sale
Aside from the guests listed below there are scores of other French wines on offer in the sale. And there's a mini-focus on the Rhone with three of the crus featured: Chateauneuf du Pape, Vinsobres and Vacqueyras. Chateauneuf is no doubt the more famous but I've enjoyed some excellent reds from the other two. Indeed, I enjoyed a bottle of the Vacqueyras earlier in the year. Colour is ruby red and ripe dark fruits abound in the inviting mix of aromas. There is a great balance between the ripe fruit and spices, plus a hint of liquorice, impressive texture, full bodied and rounded. Pair with lamb and hard cheese. 

Bordeaux of course just has to feature. One that you might note is the Les Hauts De Gros Caillou , Saint Emilion. The wines of Saint Emilion are well known and, like many here, this is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Red fruit aromas and in the mouth, there are fruity notes galore in this typical Saint Emilion, good acidity too, of course, all leading to a well balanced wine.


The Guests
The Special Guest Wines that will be available in SuperValu for a limited time during the French Wine Sale are:

George Duboeuf Moulin-à-Vent €11.80 (18.68);


La Perriere Mégalithe Sancerre €21.64 (€31.48);
Domaine Laffitte Sauvignon Blanc Reserve €7.87 (11.80)
Domaine Laffitte Rosé €7.87 (11.80)
Domaine Laffitte Cabernet-Franc Malbec €7.87 (11.80)
Simonnet-Febvre Cremant de Bourgogne €24.59 (€29.50);
Meursault Blanc Louis Latour €39.95 (€68.85);
Gustave Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve €11.80(€18.68);
Hommage du Rhone Vinsobres €11.80 (€15.73);
Alma Cersius Coteaux de Béziers €9.84 (€14.75).

Tuesday, September 8, 2020

A Cork gin, GF beer, Tandem Wines at O'Briens. And more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #20

A Cork gin, GF beer, Tandem Wines at O'Briens.
And more on wine, beer and spirits in Cheers #20
Bhagya and Robert



Rebel City Distillery is a boutique distillery situated in the heart of Cork’s Docklands. Founded in 2020, Rebel City Distillery is the first distillery in Cork city for almost 50 years. Over the last year we have painstakingly renovated the old Ford Building and transformed it into a fully functional distillery where we create, distil and bottle a unique range of spirits on-site. The distillery will produce premium spirits, which draw inspiration from around the world. Read more here.



UNIQUELY CRAFTED BEERS FROM 9 WHITE DEER

We have a range of uniquely crafted beers; our renowned pale ale, a beautiful Irish red ale, an award winning black IPA, the best stout you've ever tasted, our balanced IPA and seasonals such as our Pilsner Ól-e. Everything we do is 100% gluten free.    

Check all the latest here


MEET THE WINEMAKERS WHO SUPPLY O'BRIENS WINE 

TANDEM IN NAVARRA, SPAIN

Bodega Tandem was founded in 2003 by Alicia Eyaralar (right), José María Fraile and a small group of wine-loving friends. The winery is situated in the Yerri Valley in the northern Spanish region of Navarra.
Winemaker Elicia Eyaralar uses traditional, minimum intervention winemaking techniques in the modern boutique winery. The tanks are gravity fed and the wines undergo minimum filtration to give the best expression of the grapes. Stainless steel tanks and French oak barrels are used for winemaking and maturation.
Discover more about their wines at O'Briens here.




We'd like to remind visitors to Micil Distillery that you can rest assured you are in safe hands when you visit our distillery.
Our team are members of the Fáilte Ireland COVID-19 Safety Charter and have completed training to operate all of our tours and tastings in line with current public health advice.
Since reopening, we've reduced the capacity on our tours to ensure the safety of our guests.
This, of course, means spaces are limited so booking is advisable.
To find out more about the Micil Distillery Experience, and how you can book your spot, visit www.micildistillery.com. #MakeABreakForIt #MicilDistillery #TheSpiritOfGalway

Game of Thrones or Game of Rhônes?
Laurent Plantevin from Domaine Plantevin gets hands on with this years' harvest.


Lords and ladies, brothers and warriors — Wine is coming!

Game of Rhônes is the celebration of the great grape varieties of the Rhône Valley. The Rhône Valley has a reputation that precedes itself. It has been a hub of wine culture since Roman times and has earned an international standing for rigorous production that yields outstanding wines. Wines Direct are in the Rhone game and have 6 and 12 bottle cases here.