Amuse Bouche

‘Yuck’. He fishes out a tiny piece of tinfoil that he accidentally chewed and removed the rest of the packaging from the roll.  ‘I got you one too’, he says… ‘It’s on the counter. It’s vegetarian, just eggs and mushrooms in a wholegrain roll.’

I remember when I used to worry about being healthy.

‘I got them to put Ballymaloe Relish in it instead of ketchup….. Right, Emmie?’

Stop calling me Emmie, I want to say. I am the Ballinatoom girl how. I am That Girl.

from Asking For It by Louise O’Neill (2016). Very Highly Recommended.

A Specials Evening at The Oyster Tavern

A Specials Evening at The Oyster Tavern

Lamb

The Oyster Tavern may have been established in 1792 but while nostalgia for the (more recent) good old days (and nights) will gain you some goodwill you've got to keeping putting quality on the table. And in April 2018, The Oyster is doing just that. During our visit last week, we enjoyed two of the best main courses that we've come across in a long while. Working under renowned local chef Kate Lawlor, the team’s Pan-fried Halibut and Rack of Lamb were absolutely outstanding; and neither of the evening’s specials needed a heavy sauce.

Carpaccio

That rack of lamb, like much else here, comes from the English Market next door. And Tom Durcan's rack was perfectly cooked (pink) with pearl barley, cabbage stew and turnip purée, Irish food at its best. Great flavour from the tender meat and I reckon I'd have eaten a bowlful of the accompaniment on its own.

I enjoyed every bit of that but think I was beaten to the line by CL who hardly spoke, just purred now and then, as the fish disappeared. The Halibut, a lovely piece of fish lovingly handled in the kitchen, its delicate flavours respected, was served with charred tender stem broccoli, pickled beetroot and oyster sauce. And there was a tasty side of crushed potato with dillisk and tarragon.

Cheers!

The main choices also included a range of steaks (from Tom Durcan), baked sea-bream, two vegan friendly dishes Cauliflower Steak and Char-Grilled Aubergine Charlotte, a Chicken Cordon Bleu (from the market's Chicken Inn) and more.

We began our guest visit with a couple of lovely cool draught beers, both by Franciscan Well, the Chieftain Ale and Rebel Red, and a look at the menu. No shortage of starters: soups, chowder, oysters (of course), scampi, a Knocklara Cheese Salad included. 

CL enjoyed Durcan's spiced beef carpaccio, with cracked black pepper and sea salt on a bed of rocket leaves while I was also impressed with the flavours and textures in the Pork and Onion Croquettes (Clonakilty black pudding and apple sauce).

We were in early on the Tuesday after Easter Monday and had a chance to have a “good look”. Great welcome by the barman downstairs, a bit of chat and then he guided us to the lift, and that kind of service continued right through upstairs, and at the very end when the same friendly fellow engaged us again in a bit of banter. The restaurant looks fantastic, the island bar a feature as is a secluded area off to your right as you enter (great for a large private party). The main area has lots of booths with very comfortable seating, some lovely chairs around the bar as well (see Oyster pic below). 

This gorgeous dining area gets lively at weekend nights, with some of the musicians known to strut their stuff on the counter! Mightn't be the best time for fine dining then but you may still eat here as platters are part of the late night service. There is a separate weekend menu (including steak and eggs) and also a Pre-Theatre menu.

We finished up though with a couple of desserts, a Sherry Trifle and a Tarte Tatin and a lovely chat with Chef Kate Lawlor who joined last October and is very much enjoying her new challenge here. Earlier, we met up with restaurant manager Deirdre Caldwell.

Check a previous visit (last September) to the Oyster here.
And keep an eye for our chat with Kate Lawlor - coming soon.

Spain, and Karwig Wines, keep surprising!

Spain, and Karwig Wines, keep surprising!

Cunas Davia Ribeiro (DO) 2016, 13.5%, €21.15 Karwig Wine

Spain keeps surprising. From Galicia, the green Spain, this Cunas Davia white is an impressive newcomer to the Karwig portfolio and Very Highly Recommended. It is a blend of Treixadura (70%), Albarino (20), Godello (8) and Lado (2). Valdavia is a small family farm using biodynamic production methods on its two hectares.

It has a light straw colour. And a lovely intense nose where floral and herbal notes mingle with ripe white fruits. Rich, long and balanced on the palate, fruit and fresh acidity in perfect harmony and there is a long citrus led finalé. A pleasure!

“Ribeiro is building a reputation for fresh but elevated Treixadura-driven wines made from grapes planted on hillside terraces. A combination of Atlantic and Mediterranean influences gives Ribeiro wines more body and floral richness than Albariño from Rías Baixas.” So wrote winemag.com in 2016. I agree!

Herdade Do Esporão Quatro Castas, Vinho Regional Alentejano 2014, €20.95 Karwig Wine 

Okay, a few clues for you. Quatro Castas means 4 types, 25% each of Touriga Franca, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Alicante Bouchet (a red fleshed grape named after its breeder). Blend varies from vintage to vintage and picking the four grapes and then getting the blend right is the annual challenge to the winemakers.

All four are vinified separately. The first and third spend 6 months in American oak, the Cab Sauv 6 months in French oak, and 6 months of stainless steel for the AB. The year, 2014, provided very favourable weather conditions for red wines with high quality concentrated grapes resulting in fresh aromatic intense wines with an excellent equilibrium.

This deep ruby red wine has concentrated red fruit aromas, also a little spice and a little vanilla. Fresh, fruity and spicy on the palate with a very acceptable balance. Lovely mouthfeel and long finish. Just another beauty from this area of Portugal and Very Highly Recommended.

Velenosi Rosso Piceno (DOC) 2016, 13.5% abv, €15.50 Karwig Wines

This engaging blend of Montepulciano (70%) and Sangiovese (30) is part of Velenosi’s organic line, “a line that will surprise and charm you”. This red is pretty good and Highly Recommended.

It is a mid to dark ruby colour, with a lighter rim. There are fairly rich aromas, red fruit mainly. Fresh on the palate, it is soft with a good body, some spice, excellent acidity, strong and pleasant right through to the long finish. An elegant wine, well made in “typical Velenosi style”.

When Angela Piotti Velenosi and her husband founded their winery in 1984, cooperative wineries and bulk wine reigned in her local area of the Marches and Piceno. They started with just five hectares. Three decades later, the vineyards stretch to 105 hectares and produce 2.5 millions bottles, “of which a large share is exported to five continents”. Quite a lot it makes its way here to Ireland and Karwigs have quite a selection.

Read more about the Velenosi wines here 

Taste of the Week. Burren Smokehouse Oak Smoked Organic Irish Salmon with Honey and Dill

Taste of the Week

Burren Smokehouse Oak Smoked Organic Irish Salmon with Honey and Dill

Our Taste of the Week comes from the Burren Smokehouse via the Simply Better section of Dunnes Stores. You’ll find it difficult to find the Burren Smokehouse on the label (back). I really don't know why supermarkets don’t sell local products with the producer’s proper name highlighted on the front. Would make shopping a lot easier.

But, in this case, it is well worth it. Birgitta Curtin is the smokehouse owner and her smoking technique plus the addition of the dill and honey makes for a gorgeous rich texture and flavour, a flavour that is both deep and long.

You need very little else. Indeed, it's probably best to follow the simple serving suggestion on the back label: separate the slices of salmon 20 minutes before serving to allow it reach room temperature and then simply serve, with lemon wedges, on some fresh brown bread (preferably homemade, as was the case here, thanks to the official blog chef!).

If you want something a bit more complex, then get your hands on the current edition of Simply Better with Neven Maguire; he has a tempting recipe there for Eggs Benedict using Birgitta’s salmon.

Excellent Lunch at Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder

Excellent Lunch at Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder

Fill your own bottle

Three of us visited the Celtic Whiskey Bar and Larder in Killarney for lunch last week. And not one of us tasted a drop of whiskey! Despite being surrounded by 100s and 100s of bottles from Ireland, Scotland, United States and the rest of the world.

Actually, it can be quite difficult to make a choice on the spot. My advice would be to check out the many whiskies on their website and make a short list. Then you’ll be ready for action.

Not just whiskey

You can use that same website to make a reservation too for your food and even for their whiskey masterclasses. I used it last week and it worked like a dream, as it had on earlier occasions.

Of the three, one was a Killarney resident and had not been here before. I reckon they have a new fan, well impressed with the food. By the way, while browsing the listing, my eyes spotted the Blackwater Distillery's Gin with Barry's Tea.

Blue cheese & pear

I had that in mind for a lunchtime tipple and our server said, yes, they had it and that it was proving very popular. I had missed out on it during the Christmas lunch and was delighted to get a taste, even if I had to share it!

You may eat as much or as little as you like here in this friendly place, anything from soup of the day to a substantial pie. Speaking of which, one of our choices was the very tasty Chicken, Leek and Mushroom pie (11.00).

Chicken, leek & mushroom

I was on the look out for a dish I had througoughly enjoyed on a previous visit: the Lamb Liver, with streaky bacon and slathered in a delicious onion gravy and served with sourdough toast.

This time, with no sign of the lamb, I choose the Roast Barbary Duck Salad (11.00). The duck is warm and very flavoursome and is served with a fresh and crunch salad of Apple, Fennel and Celery and also a mustard vinaigrette. Recommended!

Duck salad

CL was also well pleased with her pick: Pear and Blue Cheese Salad (8.00) which combines these classic ingredients in a slightly innovative and tasty way. The pear is sliced. It comes with pickled walnuts and watercress and those nuts were quite outstanding. Again, the salad, just like mine, was excellent, well prepared.

For details of a previous visit, a little more whiskey involved, click here.  

Celtic Whiskey Bar & Larder

93 New Street, Killarney, Co. Kerry

Tel: 64 663 5700

Take your pick!

See also

Quinlan's Seafood Bar Killarney
Visiting Killarney's Big Houses
Dine and Stay at The Brehon Hotel Killarney

The Yew Tree at The Muckross Park Hotel
36 Hours in Killarney, inc Killarney Brewing

Greene’s Team Bowl Them Over At The Mardyke. Classy Brunch (plus Gin Bonus) in Cricket Club

Greene’s Team Bowls Them Over

Classy Brunch (plus Gin Bonus) in Mardyke Cricket Club

Crab and haddock

The punters were on a winner here, even if the “game” was a friendly. Very friendly and informal as Greene’s sommelier Frank Schiltkamp pointed out in his few words at the start, saying we weren’t going to get quite the same treatment as we would at his MacCurtain Street base, a point quickly underlined when the opening offerings for this five course tasting brunch came in cardboard containers. 

Cardboard or not, it’s hard to beat class and Chef Bryan McCarthy and his team have that in abundance and they again played a blinder at the opening brunch of the Spirit of the City Festival in the Cork Cricket Club at the Mardyke.

Scrambled eggs and smoked salmon

Before, and during, the meal, there was gin, Beara Ocean Gin from West Cork to be exact. They include botanicals, Salt Water and Sugar Kelp, from the Atlantic among their botanicals for their standard gin. And add Rosewater and Cranberry for their Pink Ocean Gin. The Pink was a special for Valentine’s Day but proved so popular, it is still with us.

Pink Ocean Gin Cocktail

 We started with a cocktail: the Pink Ocean, Prosecco and Fever-Tree’s Aromatic Tonic. Very nice indeed, especially with the sun shining on the cricket grounds outside. Later, I tried the standard Ocean Gin with the regular tonic. Will have to sample them again though without all the ice, the lemon and the lime, even juniper berries. I prefer to get down to basics see what my drink really tastes like!

Smoked spuds and black pudding

 Speaking of basics, my favourite dish had three basic ingredients: smoked potato, Jack McCarthy’s Black pudding and pancetta, plus a delicious Truffle Mayo. It was the three basic items that stole the show, fantastic flavours and textures that combined to keep the palate very happy.

With the place full and after a few words from the busy chef, we had started well with Crab and Smoked Haddock, Cucumber Pickle, Chilli, Lime and Coriander, all on brown bread (and in a cardboard container!). Super ingredients and a superb combination. 

Course number two was also small(ish) but again perfectly formed: Scrambled Eggs and O’Connell’s Smoked Salmon, Grain mustard and Honey Spelt Toast. Very tasty again, right down to the toast.

Bao Eggs Benedict

 Couldn't quite say the same about the Bao in the Eggs Bao Benedict that followed the smoked spuds. The eggs were accompanied by a dry cured bacon, wild Garlic leaves and Hollandaise. The Bao, by comparison with the earlier breads, was rather anonymous at the bottom, handy for soakage though. The eggs and the bacon on the other hand were top drawer, well equipped with both flavour and texture to take on the world on their own.

What would the team in the kitchen come up with for the final over? They bowled us over with a colourful and sweet dessert: natural yogurt, rhubarb compote, and granola. 

Dessert

So well fed and nicely ginned, we got the jackets on and headed out to see what the rest of the festival was offering. Not a great deal at that early stage (about 2.15pm). Thought we might knock across a few gin producers in the big tent. But no sign of any and with the prices set at cricket score proportions, we decided to up sticks and exit gracefully.

Up the Dyke on Saturday: Bridge over the Lee with St Vincent's Church (Sunday's Well)

Amuse Bouche

Create a new user. If only it were that easy in the real world.

In the real world, all the students at Björke School have to eat breaded fish. It should be good, but the breading was so disgusting that they figure the lunch ladies made it especially to torture them, so it was called “Punishment Fish” by everybody.

In the real world, Karro had come back to school. “Have you made yourself extra disgusting today or did I just forget how ugly you are?” Karro sneers ….while they stand in the lunch line.

from Wonderful Feels Like This by Sara Lövestam (English translation 2017). Very Highly Recommended.

Best of the Wild Atlantic in Quinlan’s Seafood Bar Killarney

Best of the Wild Atlantic in
 Quinlan’s Seafood Bar Killarney

Got a lovely welcome and a lovely lunch as well when we stepped into the bright and airy Quinlan’s Seafood Bar on High Street Killarney on a recent wet Thursday. It was quite busy, but the one or two bottlenecks were dealt with capably by the friendly front of house lady, working calmly on her own.

We got a seat by the window that looks out on to the street in this long narrow restaurant that also does takeaway. A banquette, at right angles to the street, provides much of the seating up the long side and opposite that you have the counter for service and takeaway. By the way, there is no wine or beer licence here but you’ll get plenty of water, teas, coffees and soft drinks.

Soon we were studying the menu. We needed no more than the main course so skipped, a little reluctantly, the promising Valentia Chowder. No shortage of fish and chips here - they are famous for them. You have quite a choice of fish: Whiting, Plaice, Haddock, Cod and Hake. No shortage of sides either: chips, onion rings, garden salad, mushy peas.

CL had heard only good things about their own smoked salmon for which the family has won quite a few awards and she picked the Open Sandwich. Here the salmon is served on brown bread and comes with a straightforward salad and lemon wedge, all for €11.95. The amount of “smoking” is nicely judged and the flavour of the salmon itself is not diminished but rather enhanced by its engagement with Irish oak. A lovely dish indeed. And do watch out for that smoked salmon at the Quinlan's fish shops.

Most of the fish here comes from the nearby Atlantic coast, much of it caught by Quinlan’s own boats. They have been at it since 1963 and export fish “all over the world”.  They have had fish shops in Killorglin and Caherciveen since the late 1980s and added two in Tralee and Killarney in 2009, with the Tralee shop winning National Seafood Specialist of the Year in 2011. Now, with the fish-bars, it is out of the blue and straight to you from people who know what they are doing.

Now back to my lunch. I could have had Portmagee Crab Claws, Dingle Bay Wild Squid, Homemade Fish Cakes, an Open Shrimp Sandwich but, in the end, couldn't resist the Deep Water Atlantic Prawns (14.95) in a light tempura batter. Chips were an option but I choose the salad. The Prawns were magnificent. Indeed, there was so much looking across the table at the other’s dish that we swapped plates half-way through, both of us very happy with this very tasty lunch.

Quinlan’s Seafood Bar,  (opposite Quills Woollen Market). 

77 High Street, Killarney, Co. Kerry

Tel: 064 662 0666

Opening Hours:

Monday   -  Sunday  12pm - 9pm

Summer Hours may vary.

Quinlan's Seafood bars also in Tralee, Killorglin, Kenmare and Cork City.

See also
Celtic Whiskey Bar and Larder
Visiting Killarney's Big Houses
Dine and Stay at The Brehon Hotel Killarney

The Yew Tree at The Muckross Park Hotel
36 Hours in Killarney, inc Killarney Brewing

Six Reasons to put Sligo on your Food and Drink list for 2018

Sligo. On the Food Trail

Sligo. October 2017

Lough Gill Brewery
Strandhill Food Festival
Sligo Cafés

Embassy Steakhouse
Rugantino
The Swagman

Braupakt Hefeweissbier. A Flavoursome Duet with Weihenstephaner and Sierra Nevada.

Weihenstephaner Braupakt Hefeweissbier 6% abv, 35 IBU, 50cl bottle at Bradley’s of Cork*.

Those behind this collaboration between Weihenstephaner (the world’s oldest brewery, 1040) and Sierra Nevada (of much more recent vintage, 1979) have noted a trend away from ultra-bitter beers towards a more aromatic hoppy offering. Scott Jennings, head brewmaster at Sierra Nevada and Weihenstephan’s head brewmaster, Tobias Zollo, have produced this “perfect match” between the revered German hops and the newer American ones.

The name has nothing to do with the cool bear (I first thought it was a St Bernard!) on the front label. Braupakt (literally translated; Brewery Pact) merges “old world” purity standards and brewing methodologies with “new world” innovation and hop flavours. The collaborators say the name also plays on America’s “bro pact”.

This naturally cloudy amber Hefeweizen has a lasting foamy head. Peach, apricot and citrus on the nose, hints of clove too. The pleasant mix of aromas continue in the mouth, banana touches here too and a refreshing grapefruit from the American hops plus sweetish notes from the caramel malt. The beer is balanced and has a moderate tartness that melds into a harmonious mouthfeel on the finish. Very drinkable indeed.

They recommended pairing this wheat beer with exotic and spicy-hot fish, meat and seafood dishes.

The hops used are Hallertauer Tradition, Amarillo and Chinook. Hallertauer, often spelt without the final “r”, has a long history in German lagers. Malts: wheat malt, light and dark barley malt, caramel malt.

An interesting note on Sierra Nevada. When the brewery was founded in 1979 it was the 42nd in the USA. Today, there are close to five and a half thousand. Just shows how far craft beer has come in a relatively short time. Speaking of “short time” this is a limited edition! Well worth a try.

More Weihenstephaner stockists here

Three Well Recommended Wines from South America

Three Well Recommended from South America

Altos Las Hormigas Valle de Uco Mendoza Argentina Malbec Terroir 2015, 13.5%, €25.99 Wine Online

The ants (Las Hormigas) love newly planted vines. But the owners didn't want to poison them, after all the ants were the original inhabitants; they lived with the nuisance and then found that the ants had no interest in the vines once they began to grow. (Source: Wines of South America by Evan Goldstein.)

The fruit for this one hundred per cent Malbec comes from the Valle de Uco, an area known for its fine fruit and floral bouquets. It can age for up to five years. Fifty per cent is aged in cement piletas (pools) for 12 months, 25% in stainless steel vats and 25% in untoasted large oak foudres.

Colour is a mid to deep ruby and there are aromas of plum and cherry. So smooth, fresh and spicy too, the perfect introduction. And so it progresses harmoniously across the palate, the lively acidity playing its part, all the way through to the long finalé. This is a marvellous Malbec, from producers well known for their Malbec, and is Very Highly Recommended.

Montes Alpha Malbec Valle de Colchagua (DO) 2013, 14.5%, €22.99 JJ O’Driscoll’s Wine Online

This wine comes from the Colchagua Valley in the centre of Chile. The Montes vines are irrigated under a Sustainable Dry Farming regime that has led to a 65% decrease in their water footprint.

It has a dark ruby robe, the legs slow to clear. The aromatic nose gives ripe dark fruits, toasty notes, hints of vanilla too. Palate is quite complex and intense, plums now prominent in the flavours, sweet notes too, though more or less well balanced. From a dry and sunny terroir, with outstanding fruit and aromas, this is a great example of Malbec from Chile and Very Highly Recommended.

According to the Wines of South America, Montes (founded in 1988) is credited for its pioneering work in the Colchagua’s Apalta district, the first to realise its potential as one of the best locations for red wines in Chile and “is among the most important wineries in Chile today”. As a further endorsement, their Alpha “M” (very limited production) is listed as one of the top 20 South American wines to drink before you die.

Amalaya Blanco de Corte, Valle Calchagui Argentina 2017, 12.5%, €17.99 JJ O’Driscoll’s Cork, Wine Online

Amalaya make only blends and this is a mix of Torrontés (85%) and Riesling (15%). In Salta’s high dessert, Amalaya vineyards begin a mile above sea level and are well known for Torrontés and Malbec. The journey up “is not for the faint-hearted” according to Wines of South America, who recommend Amalaya as a top producer in the area.

Colour is a mid-straw yellow. White fruits feature in the moderately intense aromas. Beautiful fresh flavours, grapefruit and citrus, on the silky smooth palate, the crisp acidity provides balance. Fruit stays to the finish where mineral notes are much in evidence. Highly Recommended.

Taste of the Week. Claire’s Homemade Seville Marmalade

Taste of the Week

Claire’s Homemade Seville Marmalade

This is going to be short as I have very little information on Claire Trihy, the producer of our Taste of the Week, an outstanding Seville Orange Marmalade.

I was in Mahon Farmers Market the week before last and realised I was running out of marmalade when I saw this pot on a stand - can't even remember which stand! 

But I bought it straightaway. When I opened it up a few days later and tried it on some Arbutus sourdough, I just had to stop and savour the magnificent tangy flavour - lots of peel in here! It is one of the very best Seville marmalades I've ever come across and just had to make it Taste of the Week!

The small label attached to the jar gives the ingredients and little else. The address though is there: Whitfield, Butlerstown, Waterford. Might be easier to find the marmalade in Mahon next Thursday.

Eight Degrees Can Three Of Their Range

Eight Degrees Can Three Of Their Range

Eight Degrees are the latest brewery to can their beers. The Mitchelstown based firm launched three cans this March, two with established favourites and one with a newcomer. Very colourful cans they are too, joining a myriad of other colourful cans on the shelves. Canfusion for me but luckily Michael Creedon in Bradley’s always knows where the one you want is situated.

Brewery co-owner Scott Baigent said: “We've definitely seen an increased demand for cans in recent times and, despite our ongoing love for the 330ml bottle, are releasing three of our beers in 440ml cans.”

Neon Velvet Kiwifruit and Lime infused FPA, 5.0% abv, 39 IBUs

This is the newcomer, a limited edition beer, and only available in cans or on draught. This cloudy beer  is a golden colour. Aromas are bright hoppy. Very pleasant smooth intro. Infused with kiwi and lime and more flavour from the Citrus and Amarillo hops, all before a dry hopping with New Zealand hops Pacific Jade and Motueka. A lovely fruity ale, “hazy, silky and fruity” as they say themselves and with a dry finish.

Lots of food pairing suggestions on the Eight Degrees site but the one I fancy is: “a chunk of good Irish farmhouse cheddar will play off the fruit flavours in both elements of the pairing”.

Citra Single Hop IPA, 5.7% abv, 62 IBUs

Tropical fruit aromas and flavours on display from the get-go here with this pale orange coloured beer. Hoppy notes too in the aromas. The Citra hop holds up well on this solo run, its tropical flavours scoring all the way through, the malt also playing its part in quite a flavoursome drop indeed, fruity and juicy and a good finish as well.

Think I'd like to try that with the suggested “grilled spicy fresh Gubbeen chorizo sausages”.

Full Irish Single Malt IPA 6.0%, 65 IBUs

This excellent beer is well known at this stage, having gathered award after award following its 2014 launch. They describe this as “a hop bomb” and so it is but the bitterness in this pale gold drink is rounded. No shortage of hops in the aromas with citrus and floral notes in there too. Local barley is the malt hero here but the hops (Ahtanum, Centennial, Citra, Amarillo) share the limelight as this clean tasting well-balanced IPA makes its journey across the palate before you enjoy that rounded bitterness at the finalé. Quite a few food suggestions again; I’m inclined to go for the smoked duck, especially if it's Ummera.

So there you go. An excellent way to pass an evening watching Champions League on the telly. Just as well, Barca stopped at three against Chelsea!

Stockists: Eight Degrees beers are widely available in Ireland. Also in Italy, France and the Benelux countries. See stockists here. I got my three (for a tenner) at Bradley's Cork.