Steak, Stonewell and Swiss Roll. Highlights of a group lunch in Thompsons

Steak, Stonewell and Swiss Roll. 

Highlights of a group lunch in Thompsons

Is your name on that T-bone?

Seven of us met for a lovely lunch at Thompsons in MacCurtain Street last week. The former bakery is one of the leading lights on the revived street and its surroundings, collectively now known as the Victorian Quarter.

My meal can be easily described with these three words: Steak, Stonewell, Swiss Roll. Of course, there was much more on the menu.

The Himalayan salt dry-aged steaks are a feature here, and you pass a couple of ageing cabinets as you enter the large restaurant. Indeed, some were listed on the specials (for sharing), including the T-Bone, "the Rolls Royce of cuts," cooked on the bone. With prices at €110 for 800g and €130 for the 1kg size, our occasion didn’t quite demand spending that much!

Nonetheless, four of the seven opted for steak in various forms, two for Picanha (the Brazilian cut from the top of the rump and surrounded by a thick layer of fat giving tons of flavour) and one for the Flat Iron (cut from the chuck, nicely marbled with lots of beefy flavour, tender and juicy with minimal fat), The fourth steak was McCarthy's sirloin served with dressed leaves, caramelised onions and chimichurri on sourdough plus fries. All the steaks, supplied by Kanturk’s Jack McCarthy, came in for compliments, especially from an English visitor who was astounded by the flavour.

It wasn't just steak, though. Two picked the Ballycotton Fish and Chips (beer-battered Haddock with fries, minted pea purée, caramelised lemon, and tartar), which also went down very well. The Chicken Ciabatta (miso-glazed chicken from their famous Josper oven, roasted pepper aioli, crunchy lettuce, and tomato confit on ciabatta) also impressed. All sandwiches are served with fries, and  Alternative Bread Co. products are used.

There's a full bar here, so there are plenty of drinks, though sadly, the Cotton Ball beers are no longer available. Quite a selection was ordered, but I stuck with the non-alcoholic Stonewell Cider. This is a very impressive drink, perhaps the best of its class. Highbank's Drivers Cider is also excellent but you seldom see it on sale in the Cork area.

The large restaurant is based in a former bakery. 

A tempting Brownie.

Thompson's Swiss Roll was the most famous cake produced at the eponymous bakery back in its heyday—they had installed a multi-purpose sponge plant to cater to the demand. Of course, the roll heads the dessert menu, and, being of a certain age, most of us opted for the Raspberry Jam & Cream rolled in a classic Victoria sponge base served with fresh berries, vanilla ice cream, and chocolate crumb. 

The Swiss Roll, called Jelly Roll in the USA, didn't necessarily start in Switzerland, though the origin is almost certainly there or in neighbouring countries such as Austria. Anyhow, for us, it was what BBC's Good Food calls "the ultimate nostalgic treat". Yum!

At the entrance to an adjacent building, you'll see a couple of photos from the heyday of the Thompsons bakery showing the workers in action. Apparently, they used to produce up to a mile of it every day! Assuming that an individual roll measures 12 inches, I reckon that was the equivalent of over 5,000 rolls per day, 30,000 over a six-day week! Cork certainly had a sweet tooth! Still has, going by our happy punters at Thompsons!

Just one corner of this very large restaurant.

Taste of the Week with Jack and Janet.

Taste of the Week

Jack McCarthy's Pastrami and Janet's Country Fayre Ploughman's Chutney.

Another visit to the English Market and another Taste of the Week, the superb Jack McCarthy pastrami from On the Pig's Back. We also bought some of Jack's

Time to try The Barn. Spacious and comfortable with friendly service and huge choice of good food

Time to try The Barn. Spacious and comfortable 

with friendly service and huge choice of good food

Jack McCarthy Black Pudding Salad.

If you haven’t been to The Barn recently, you're in for a big surprise. It is big, much bigger than it was less than three years ago. Renovated and expanded, it now has covers for some 300 people - in comfort.

And, judging by our recent visit, it is taking it all in its stride, every day from 8.30pm until late. Its large car park is close to full all the time as patrons stream in for breakfast, brunch and (more recently) dinner.

We were there for lunch on a showery Tuesday afternoon and it was busy, not packed, just busy. Lots of couples, family groups (it was still school holiday time), birthday parties,  larger groups, and no shortage of smiling chatty efficient staff to deal with it all.

They spotted us quickly and soon we were seated. Had we been here before? We answered no and they quickly and concisely explained how it works. The carvery is up there on the left. Otherwise your order can be taken at the table. Or you can  scan a QR code at your table and send your own order and then pay for it, all over your phone. Oh and by the way, this is a cashless restaurant.

Some of the staff and much of the comfort of the old restaurant remains and there is a great buzz about the place. It is huge, really huge but you don’t really feel that you are in a large “barn” as the long building, all on a split level ground floor, is informally broken up into about six different dining zones. We were in #4 (these are not signposted or anything like that, it is all a bit casual but all very efficient) and our table was T410.

Apple Tart

You have a Breakfast menu (8.30-11.30 am), a Brunch menu (8.30am- 4.00pm), the Carvery (from noon until 7.00pm), an All Day menu (from noon until 7.00pm), and recently a Dinner Menu (from early evening until 9.00pm). Add in an impressive bar service and you’ll be well taken care of, no matter what time you come, as will the kids.

From the bar, you can may get wines (a short list, but all by the glass), lots of bottles of beer (including a couple of craft from the local brewery), mainstream beers on draught, spirits of all kinds plus quite a list of cocktails. And on some nights, they have music (that old piano has a prominent position!).

That carvery has been key to the Barn’s operations and popularity since it reopened last year and so we just had to try it out. CL was the volunteer and she got  terrific help from behind the counter (all the food is held under glass, the customer won't be breathing on it or touching it) and the server fills your plate for you. And than means “fills your plate”. 

Tiramisu

CL came back with half a chicken and all the bells and whistles. All their meat is Irish (Kanturk’s Jack McCarthy and Macroom’s Michael Twomey are named on the menu as suppliers) and you may have beef, pork and lamb with all kinds of trimmings and sauces. And her piled plate was of excellent quality and proved very satisfactory indeed.

I was picking from the Day Menu and had all kinds of choices: burgers, salads, fish ’n chips, sandwiches, pizzas, and pasta dishes (not to mention sides). My pick was the Jack McCarthy Black Pudding Salad with roasted walnuts, boiled egg, Baby Spinach and home-made bacon and apple jam. Delicious from start to finish, every element from the well known prize-winning pudding to the well dressed salad and that appetising bacon and apple jam.

The feel good factor was high at this point and there was no resistance when desert was mentioned, even though often enough in some restaurants, this final course can be the disappointing one. They have some list here, over a dozen I think. We ordered, rather cautiously, the Apple Pie and the Tiramisu. But again the Barn kitchen came upon trumps with two excellent sweets. Happy Days.

In another contrast with the “old days”, when they ignored all social media requests, the current team make full use of Facebook and Insta and so on and you’ll have no problem checking the menus and the opening times before you go. The website has all you need and you’ll find it here. The restaurant itself is between Mayfield and the New Inn school on the Glanmire Road and has been there for about 40 years.

On The Pig's Back Menu Sings The Season’s Songs. A mellow melody for misty days ahead.

On The Pig's Back New Menu 

Sings The Season’s Songs.

A mellow melody for misty days ahead.

There is a new menu at On The Pigs Back in Douglas, gorgeous and extensive, plates over-brimming with something delicious for everyone, based on the best of local produce from the bounty of the current season, with a French influence, naturellement, and expertly curated by head chef Paul Siglar and his team and no shortage of expertise either in the cooking and presentation.

Just reading its two pages is a tonic for the appetite. But why walk when you can fly! Tempted by the long list of delightful dishes, I certainly “flew" down to the venue and may well have caught the new menu, with its marvellous melange of meats, breads, vegetables, fish, cheese, and eggs of course, on its debut day. It won’t be my last visit for this menu!

As they say themselves: "As the seasons change so does our menu, ensuring we use the best in season produce while staying exciting to our customers.” Variety is the spice of life and no shortage here.

Took us a while to make a decision! Just so many choices. On the meat side, you may well go for Jack McCarthy's Free-Range Ham Sandwich with Bandon Vale Cheddar Cheese, Green Leaves, Pickled Cucumber, Tomato & Onion with a Red Pepper Relish on Arbutus Sour Dough served

with house salads.

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Dining out in Ireland? Cork in particular? Check out our up to date reviews here. Restaurants, cafés, and trucks included.

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Cheese? How about the Irish and French Cheese & Charcuterie Board with Apple and Carrot Chutney, Crackers and Fresh Bread. Prefer fish? Then the Smoked Salmon and Prawn Salad with Mixed Leaves, Maryrose Sauce, Pickled Red Onions, Brown Bread Croutons may be the one for you.

Treat the Vegetable lover in you to the Hot Braised Lentil and Rainbow Beetroot over Mixed Leaves, Red Onions, Toasted Hazelnuts and Maple Vinaigrette. And you can hardly get more seasonal than the Pumpkin Spiced Butternut Squash, Poached Pears, Watercress and Spinach Salad with Mulled Wine Dressing. How about those eggs? The Welsh Rarebit on Arbutus Beer Bread with an Arugula and Boiled Egg Salad is just one example

There’s bread everywhere: sourdough, baguettes, brioche, and more. Most irresistible though is the Arbutus Brioche French Toast Whipped Chantilly Cream and Blackberry Compote. There’s tea and coffee and soft drinks, of course, all served with a chat and a smile

I had read the menu online and had narrowed my choices down to two by the time I sat down and then made my mind up to go for the Bourguignon Beef Baguette: Braised Beef Brisket, Mushrooms, Bacon and Pearl Onions on Toasted Arbutus Baguette with Red Wine Jus. Just five-star lunch-ing, spot-on for the cool day, quite a warming ensemble robed deliciously in the red wine jus.

I devoured the Croque Madame back in May and it is obviously so popular it continues now and for a long time to come, we hope! This time CL enjoyed it. It comes in Arbutus Toasted Brioche with Free-Range Glazed Ham, Emmental cheese & Mornay Sauce topped with a Fried Free-Range Egg. Again, every little bit on that beguiling plate pulling its weight, the quality of the ingredients shining through, nothing there just for decoration (though of course, presentation is neat and tidy).

So that was it. We had been thinking a pastry for dessert but decided to leave well enough alone and it was two very happy customers that headed off for the hills, promising ourselves we’d be back again, so much more to enjoy!

On the Pig's Back in Douglas have both a café and deli.
Situated in Douglas Woollen Mills with free parking for up to two hours.

More details here.

Taste of the Week. Jack McCarthy's Ham and Outregious Lettuce

Taste of the Week

Jack McCarthy's Ham and Outregious Lettuce 

We doubled up for this Taste of the Week. Well more than just two elements, but Jack McCarthy's cooked ham via On the Pig's Back in Neighbourfood and the well named Outregious Lettuce from Brown Envelope Seeds (via the Roof Top Farm Shop) were the stars on the plate.

Jack's ham is free range. The Kanturk butcher then delivers to On the Pig's Back in Douglas and there it is "cooked in our kitchen with onions, peppers, cloves and bay and finished off with a honey and whole-grain Dijon mustard". It is a lovely ham and can be enjoyed on its own.

Jack's Ham!

But we made up a salad with various leaves from the garden, tomatoes and hard-boiled eggs. One of the lettuces was the Outregious, described by Brown Envelope as "an upright salad variety which forms a loose head. An outrage of red in the salad bed". And very nice on the plate and palate as well. It certainly grew well for us.

Lots of variety in our Taste of the Week!

Rosti. Medjool. Boozey Tiramisu. Jack McCarthy Blackpudding All on the menu at Jacques where local gets an international twist.

Rosti. Medjool. Boozey Tiramisu. Jack McCarthy Blackpudding

All on the menu at Jacques where local gets an international twist.

Rosti featured on my lunch plate at the welcoming Jacques Restaurant in the centre of Cork City last week. I think the first time I came across the Swiss speciality was in Zurich in 2007, during a dinner at the Movenpic Airport Hotel. 

The hotel meal was Rosti and veal in a mushroom sauce and it was very enjoyable. That Rosti came flat from the pan and covered half the plate. But the Jacques version was in a high-sided wedge shape. And it was excellent as was everything else during our pleasant interlude.

It was lunchtime and in some ways, the Cork Rosti had aspects of a brunch dish based solidly, of course, on local produce. The Potato Rosti came with soft-boiled eggs, hollandaise, slaw and a choice of Jacques Ham, Portobello Mushroom or Jack McCarthy’s Black Pudding (13.90). I never turn down a chance to eat McCarthy’s and that was my pick and the ensemble was a wondered mix of textures and flavours, everything perfect, including that finely chopped slaw.

It was well cooked, well presented and brought to the table at just the perfect temperature as was the case with our other mains, the eye-catching Smoked Mackerel Salad, roast beetroot, pickled egg, horseradish, watercress and crisp bread (14.90). Another combination to get the taste buds excited, with that pickled egg a tasty feature.

The Jacques Lunch menu allows the punter to construct his or her meal in a number of ways. For instance, you can pick from the selection of Nibbles: Marinated Olives, Salted Almonds, or a Selection of dips, crusty bread and sourdough crackers.

You could follow that up with your choice of small plate: Soup, Roast Beetroot and Beetroot Borani with Cashel Blue crumb etc; Arancini (West Cork Crab, Salsa verde) and a few more. 

Perhaps you’d like to share a board. They have a Meat and Cheese Board (includes Ham Hock Terrine and Drunken Figs) or go for the Cheese Board (Coolea, Durrus, Cashel and more Drunken Figs!).

Our two dishes came from the Big Plates. And there were quite a few others to pick from including a tempting Chicken, Leek and Mushroom pie; Steamed Mussels; Fresh Fish ’n Chips; and a Root Vegetable Makhani with rice Pilaf. A little list of sides also available from which we picked the Twice Cooked Chips to share.

Sometime last year, we missed out on the legendary Boozey Tiramisu here. It wasn’t going to happen on this occasion. And we shared one (7.50). I don’t know what booze they use but the moist dessert was made with generous hands and every bit as good as anticipated!

We’ve had some versions of the dates and blood orange dessert here too over the years and one of those was also ordered, also 7.50. The Blood Oranges, Medjool Dates stuffed with Mascarpone, with Pomegranate and flaked Almonds was another winner. The tangy citrus of the oranges goes so well with the soft flesh and mildly rich and pleasing flavours of the Medjool.

Also available were Chocolate and Salted Caramel Tart and Caramelised Apples, Vanilla Ice Cream and Hazelnut Praline. Next time!

And Jacques is a great place to chat and hear what is going on around town. Culinary Chairs! Who is on the move from one restaurant/café to another? From Lancaster Quay to MacCurtain Street. From that street to Bridge Street. And from Bridge Street to MacCurtain Street.  And there’s someone on the move too from Oliver Plunkett Street to a happy retirement! Some of those moves are already made of course.

To stay up to date with Jacques  (menus, opening times and more), click their Facebook posts here.

Union Quay - ready for outside dining!

On The Pig's Back. 'Cork Fayre with French Flair'

On The Pig's Back.'Cork Fayre with French Flair' 

Founded in 1992 by Isabelle Sheridan, On The Pig’s Back has a major presence in the Cork and indeed wider food scene, coupling the best of local produce with an undoubted French Flair - Isabelle is French - as is their motto.

No better way to put it to the test than visit the restaurant in Douglas for brunch or lunch. The menu illustrates the motto very well indeed with local produce from Ardsallagh Goats and Jack McCarthy Butchers often highlighted. It is an expansive menu and I for one could happily eat there everyday for a few weeks without repeating a dish.

When I sat down the other day, having had my covid certificate scanned and telephone number recorded, I had quite a bit of reading to do on the long menu. Found it hard enough to make up my mind but, in the end, went for the Croque Madam (no “e” in the Madam, must be a Cork spelling!). You’ll know there is also a Croque Monsieur but without the egg.

So I had Croque Madam on Arbutus Toasted Brioche, with On The Pigs Back Free-Range Glazed Ham, Emmental Cheese and Mornay topped with a Fried Free-Range Egg. Cost, including a small bowl of a superbly-dressed salad, was €12.90, Monsieur (less well endowed) comes in at a euro less. Money well spent I thought; there are pubs in the area who charge much the same for a lack-lustre roast of the day.

It was l’amour at first bite, the delicious ham, the yielding brioche, that super velvety mornay plus the crowning egg and then that mixed salad on the side adding its own texture and the occasional tarty bite of a thin slice of olive. Mornay is an offshoot of the well known Béchamel (widely regarded as one of the five major French sauces, a mother sauce from which others spring) and is distinguished by its cheese element. You get a lot in this dish for your €12.90!

Madame CL also had a choice to make and her pick is a variation on what has become a local classic over the years, beetroot and goats cheese. Full menu title: Oven Roasted Beetroot Salad with Candied Walnuts, Rocket leaves and Crumbled Ardsallagh Goats Cheese.

The description is a bit understated as this was another well executed and lovely dish, again for €12.90. Two different coloured beetroots featured, there was also a beetroot purée an a few beetroot crisps (probably from Joe’s Farm). Never a problem with that excellent Ardsallagh and those walnuts provided the sweetest bite.

The café and deli in Douglas produces a range of delicious food, supporting local food producers, and is also a busy spot for Artisan food shopping, lunch, food tastings and special events, as diverse as art exhibitions, concerts, plays, food festivals & much, much more. Keep an eye on their Facebook page for updates.

They are of course still going strong in the English Market, Isabelle’s original venture. There is no cafe here but you will find Farmhouse Cheeses, Charcuterie, Fresh Breads, Irish Artisan Food, and French Gourmet Food Specialities and more, including some of their own produce such as award-winning Pâté and Terrines.

Add in wines and their very large cheese business and you’ll see that this operation (retail and wholesale) has hugely expanded from that single stall back in the 90s. Check it out here at the website.

The Oliver Plunkett’s A Specials Kind Of Place

The Oliver Plunkett’s A Specials Kind Of Place

Be sure and keep an eye on the specials when you dine at the Oliver Plunkett, on the Cork street of the same name. And, yes, for this month, you will be dining on that street! There is quite a bit of shelter here and that came in handy as the evening we visited wasn't at all sunny. Yet we two for sure and most of the punters nearby seemed to thoroughly enjoying themselves and even a light mist later on did little to dampen spirits!

The Oliver Plunkett chef Fred Desormeaux is well-known for his fish dishes and when I saw tuna on the specials list, I knew I was on to a good thing. And so it proved. The Pan Fried Fresh Tuna & Prawns on warm baby potatoes and chorizo salad, with a Cherry sun blush tomato pesto was absolutely amazing, perhaps the best tuna I’ve ever tasted. Don’t think you’ll see this or its likes in many restaurant, not to mention bar, menus.

Tuna & Prawns

I ordered it medium, though Fred himself prefers it rare. It was flavoursome and juicy and so easy to slice. The salad was a highlight on its own, the prawns fresh and delicious. What a combination of flavour and texture. Go for it if you see it listed.

The Oliver Plunkett kitchen supports local and its fish comes from Pat O’Connell in the English Market who gets most of his from the boats that work out of Castletownbere. I had also started with the produce of the sea: Fresh Crab Roll (Fresh Crab, Lemon Mayonnaise, Pickled Cucumber, Salad Leaves, Roast Garlic Aioli). Another perfect combination, right down to the beautiful Brioche buns on which it was served!

Crab

CL was in the sea as well as we started, her choice the Panko Crumbed Atlantic Prawns with Mango & Sweet Chilli, Lime Coriander Mayo & Side Salad. Very happy with that though she had also eyed the special of Grilled Dublin Bay Prawns in Lemon and Garlic butter, with toasted Rosemary & Sea Salt Focaccia. 

And as we moved onto the mains, her final choice was between the recommended special of Roast Stuffed Chicken Supreme Black Pudding wrapped in streaky bacon, creamy mash served with Chicken jus and the regular Lamb Shawarma (Slow Cooked Spiced Shredded Lamb Shoulder in Buttermilk, on a Flat Bread with Hummus, Pickled Onion, Spicy Wedges, Mango & Sweet Chili Yoghurt). She picked the lamb and enjoyed the mix of flavours, again top quality and quite a substantial dish.

Prawns

Dessert? Always the question and always a hesitation! So why not share our Raspberry Creme Brûlée? Why not indeed? And again we hit the jackpot. Studded with juicy fruit, this was perhaps the very best dish of its kind we’ve ever tasted. So that (along with the Tuna) makes two of the best ever on one menu. Not bad going at all.

By the way, watch out too for the breakfast here. Chef Desormeaux bases his selection on the renowned produce supplied by McCarthy Butchers in Kanturk. There’s also the possibly of a Sunday brunch being offered in the near future. Watch this space!

Lamb

The Oliver Plunkett  

Oliver Plunkett Street

Cork

Taste of the Week. The Big Cork Salad with Jack McCarthy, ORSO, Olives West Cork, Purple Squirrel, On the Pig's Back, Neighbourfood.

Taste of the Week. 

The Big Cork Salad.

Salad with Jack McCarthy, ORSO, Olives West Cork, Purple Squirrel, On the Pig's Back, Neighbourfood.

How many hands does it take to make a lively tasty salad at the start of spring. Quite a few as it turned out last weekend. But it turned out very well indeed. Quite a Taste of the Week!

The leaves, a lovely mix, came from Purple Squirrel Farm. There was Sweet Pickled Onion from ORSO, adding a delicious kick. From Olives West Cork came Freshly Marinated Koroneiki Olives (big plump and superb) and Semi Sundried Tomatoes (big juicy Sicilians that had to be cut down to size with a scissors). 

The main star of the dish was Jack McCarthy's Pastrami (left), all the way from Kanturk, and supplied to Neighbourfood via On the Pig's Back. Indeed all the ingredients came via Neighbourfood, illustrating once again how this organisation is helping small producers and at the same time giving customers the chance to taste the very best around.

O'Mahony's Looked To The East And Netted Dim Sum Hat Trick. This Week, They Focus On Mexico

 O'Mahony's Look To The East And Net Dim Sum Hat Trick. This Week, They Focus On Mexico*!

Mexico Menu at bottom

Okay, we've got quite a few Dim Sum aficionados in Ireland. And, on the other hand, quite a few who know very little about this element of Chinese cuisine that has spread worldwide. Dim sum itself refers to a style of Chinese cuisine, served in small bite-sized portions, including but not limited to dumplings.

Cantonese dim sum culture developed rapidly during the latter half of the nineteenth century in Guangzhou. It sum was based originally on local foods. As dim sum continued to develop, chefs introduced influences and traditions from other regions of China and this was the start of a wide variety of dim sum. Dim sum restaurants typically have a wide variety of dishes, usually totaling several dozen.There are over one thousand dim sum dishes in existence today.

And that 1000 plus would not include this Watergrasshill version from O'Mahony's, solidly based on top class local produce, including Carrigcleena free range chicken and duck, Fitzgerald’s pork belly, Ballyhoura mushrooms, Jack McCarthy’s and Hanley’s Black Pudding and more. I got mine at the weekend. It was their third offering and all sold out. This week, I'm told the focus will be on Mexico. Check their Facebook page for details (from today Tuesday) as I'd expect something of a rush. 

I'm always amazed with how Asian cuisine in general makes the very best of vegetables. And the team 
at O'Mahony's didn't let me down, serving up a Cashew Matsu Slaw and a Cucumber & sesame salad. One of the highlights of the meal.

Chicken, pork and mushroom, all wrapped up in delicious little parcels!

Jack McCarthy Black Pudding on the right with
Carrigcleena duck on left. Both delicious.

According to Wikipedia, Okonomiyaki is a Japanese savory pancake containing a variety of ingredients in a wheat-flour-based batter; it is an example of konamon. The name is derived from the word okonomi, meaning "how you like" or "what you like", and yaki meaning "cooked".

There were quite a few elements in the package, including Adam's Egg Fried Rice
and a terrific dipping sauce as well. Oh, I almost forgot the Miso Soup.

This week's menu - Rápida Rápido