Restaurant Reviews. Food. Markets. Wine. Beer. Cider. Whiskey. Gin. Producers. . Always on the look-out for tasty food and drink from quality producers! Buy local, fresh and fair. The more we pull together, the further we will go. Contact: cork.billy@gmail.com Follow on Twitter: @corkbilly Facebook: Billy Lyons
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Roger Ravoire Wine Dinner at Donnybrook Fair
Lubernon vines with Ménerbes in background |
Roger Ravoire Wine dinner at Donnybrook Fair
Olivier Ravoire (above) from Roger Ravoire will host a wine dinner on Wednesday 19th October at 7.45pm in The Restaurant @ Donnybrook Fair. Olivier will introduce a selection of wines from his family’s winery located in the heart of the
Monday, September 12, 2011
APPLE RECIPES
Apple & Blackberry Cobbler |
APPLE RECIPES
It is the apple time of year, lots of them now becoming
available at fruit farms and in the farmers markets. Thanks to our friends at
All Recipes UK and Ireland, we’ve got no less than 482 apple recipes for you!
More than an apple a day.
Find apple recipes for all of your favourites -
apple cake, apple crumble, apple pie. They have savoury ways with apples, too -
apple-stuffed chicken breast, apple and cheese bruschetta and more.
So get picking and peeling and click right here
LES GOURMANDISES: Premiere classe
LES GOURMANDISES
With recent Food & Wine kudos for both the chef and the sommelier, you’d have thought we were on a good thing when we visited Les Gourmandises at the weekend. Well, we were but we knew that even before the awards were announced as this Cook Street restaurant is, and has been for some time now, one of the very best in Cork.
Started with the Les Gourmandises tasting plate: Parsnip Soup, Black Pudding with Foie Gras and breaded John Dory with green puree. The Parsnip soup was delightful; the Black Pudding outshone the Foie Gras while the fish was spot on. A good start is half the battle.
Next up for me was the Roasted duck leg confit with confit potato and cherry. A beautiful piece of duck, so well cooked. It also looked fantastic, a tempting light colour, and it fell away from the bone at the slightest touch. Tasted as well as it looked, much better than similar efforts I ate in the Dordogne in the summer of 2010.
CL was also very happy with Fillet of Cod with Celeriac and Apple puree and mushrooms. The fish and puree combination was top class, every little bit welcomed onto the palate. We both got a side dish of sautéed potatoes, shaped into small globes, not much bigger than marbles (or glassy alleys, as we say around here).
We each had the same dessert: Red Berry Jelly and Lavender Panacotta, with a Lemon Madeleine. I’ve had some variation of this here previously. It was fresh and lively, a really smashing way to finish off a meal, the combination of sight and taste sending two happy customers on our way into the night.
We were on the Prix Fixe menu which is priced at €27.50 for two courses, €29.50 for three. Do the math and you’ll see that the dessert cost just two euro! Two glasses of Lombeline wine, one Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire, the other Syrah/Grenache from the Gard, brought the bill to €72.70.
No complaints with the wines, each was excellent. The following day, by chance, I spotted that The Wine Store sells the Sauvignon Blanc for €10.99 a bottle. The glass at Les Gourmandises is priced at €6.85. The Bridge Bar and Grill in Dublin internet site lists their glass price at €7.00, their bottle at €24.00. These would all seem to be rather large mark ups.
And the other thing about Irish restaurants selling wine by the glass is that you are rarely told how much wine is your glass, whereas in some European countries, Austria for example, you have the choice of one or two decilitres and, in some cases, the glass is marked.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
MIDLETON FOOD FESTIVAL
Midleton Food Festival 10.09.11. Click on image to enlarge. Post to follow... |
MIDLETON FOOD FESTIVAL
Had really been looking forward to this year’s Midleton
Food Festival and neither the food on offer nor the people offering it let me
down in any way. A stroll down (and up, and down and up again) the main street this
Saturday morning was a foodie pleasure.
Enjoyed my chat with Claire of Amandine who make sweet temptations from the most gorgeous French style pastries
to personalised birthday cakes. Two of her pastries, Pear & Almond and
Lemon Meringue Tarts, have been shortlisted for the 2011 Irish Food Awards in Dingle
and they were the two we bought.
One of the pleasures of these festivals, especially
if you go early, is the opportunity to chat with the stallholders and we
compared notes with Claire on Provence (where she is from and where we, and
she, holidayed this year). Bonne chance in Dingle, Claire.
Also had a chat with Jon Ward and Kevin Aherne from the
inventive Sage Restaurant who played a big part in the festival with a few stands out on the street
as well as one in the courtyard.
Also called to the regular Farmers Market which was also running and delighted here to meet up with Noreen and son Henry
from Woodside Farm and also the busy and ever inventive Deirdre Hilliard of Cobh’s Just Food
.
Back to the food now. Let’s start with the bread, a
lovely sourdough (already tested) from the Granary who have a pleasant permanent
position just off the main street. Three lots of cheese came back to the city:
two from the Old Irish Creamery and
one from Ardsallagh .
Isabelle Sheridan was manning the On the Pig’s Back stand
and here we helped ourselves to some Chicken liver pate and to a slab of Venison
Terrine. Also a box of Victoria plums from the Rose Cottage Fruit farm .
At the Farmers Market, we bought the veg from Ballycurraginny
Farm (regulars at Mahon Point), got some Pork and Apple Burgers from Woodside
and a Muesli and pot of Ratatouille from Just Food.
Madeline from Pure Sushi told
me she was delighted with her award at the Mitchelstown Festival and we treated
ourselves to a six pack for this evening. Some sweet stuff too. In addition to
the cakes from Amandine (who have a permanent stand in the Mahon Shopping complex),
we spoiled ourselves with a bag of gorgeous mixed chocolates from Benoit Lorge .
As you know, I regularly buy Irish, buy local. But
it is not always easy. Lorge has quite a reputation in the chocolate field and
many of you may have seen Eve Chocolates from
Dennehys Cross highlighted in the Evening Echo during the week.
Yet last week, at the English Market, two US travel agents
told me they were disappointed to find only two Irish chocolate products on
sale in an otherwise well stocked chocolate shop there.
Thursday, September 8, 2011
SOUTH AUSTRALIA GEMS FROM MORAMBRO CREEK
Click to enlarge |
SOUTH AUSTRALIA GEMS FROM MORAMBRO CREEK
Brad Rey, Brand Manager at
Morambro Creek, the
home of Jip Jip Rocks and Mt Monster, was
at Karwig Wines in
Carrigaline last Wednesday and oversaw one of the most fascinating tastings
I’ve ever been at.
And it wasn't just because of
the wines, which included a few surprises for this punter and were all of
outstanding quality, that I’ll remember Brad. It was mostly for his convictions
about wine and his common sense.
The Canadian born and raised
Brad brought a breath of fresh Rockies air to the proceedings.
“Most of New World Chardonnay..is concocted
crap.”
“Oak shouldn't be the dominant
characteristic. Wine is made from grapes and should taste of the fruit.”
“The earth is like a tea bag.
All that grows in the vicinity...elephant fennel, wild
rosemary..eucalyptus..finds its way in.....and ends up in the glass.”
“Don't wash your wine glass
with water (fluoride in Ireland!). Wash it with wine, maybe bottled water.”
There were three sparklers on
the table. A Mt Monster brut, an easy drinker, something like an
“Aussie Cremant” was the first. Then came the Jip Jip Cuvee from 2009. Very
pleasant indeed and again easy drinking.
Brad maintains that Aussie sparklers
are on the up and up. They were up too, many moons ago. They’ve been making them
since 1890s and they were extremely popular in Oz in the early 1900s, then
seemed to lose their way but are now on the firmly on the way back.
And the third sparkler seemed
to confirm this. It was Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz, a medium bodied mouth friendly
wine. A very pleasant surprise indeed and Brad recommended using it with pork
or duck or “anything you’d use Pinot Noir with”. Must try that.
After knocking much of the New
World Chardonnay, Brad opened his own bottle. “I try to let the fruit speak,
let Mother Nature do the job.” And this unoaked bottle spoke the fruit. Gorgeous
and refreshing with a little richness added through limited contact with the
lees, perhaps another lesson from the Loire which Brad knows and likes.
And France was in his mind too
when making the Jip Jip 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. Citrusy and soft, fresh and clean
and well balanced, made that way because Brad doesn't like high acidity.
He was delighted with his Mt Monster
Shiraz of 2008. “Good, the way I want to see it. Very minimal oak. May be
served slightly chilled. It is light fruit, blueberries and raspberries and the
tannins are fruit tannins. This is about balance and reminds me of the joven I
used to make in Spain.”
Then we moved on to a more
traditional Shiraz, the 2009 Jip Jip, a multi medal winner that has spent quite
a while in 2, 3 and 4 year old French oak. But the oak doesn't dominate. “Drink
it on its own; it is easy drinking.”
He was quite proud of the next
one also as it has been his “first go” at Morambro Creek Shiraz. This 2008 had
been in 20% US oak but from now on it will be 100% French barriques. The annual
spend on oak is now massive, well over a million Australian dollars. Good wine,
though!
The finish was a beautiful Mt Monster
Cabernet Sauvignon 2008. No oak, lovely and bright, not heavy, tannins enough
and easy drinking, according to Brad who admitted to being “chuffed by that”.
Remember, Brad hasn’t seen most of these wines for a while as they are
long gone from Morambro.
The fennel is in here, fresh
mint, cassis, blue and red fruits, all in a rich texture with velvety tannins.
It has been getting a great reaction.
Morambro is certainly a name
(three names really) to watch out for and to make it easier, you can get all
three at Karwig Wines.
Wednesday, September 7, 2011
Karwig Wines: Cannonau di Sardegna
Stella & Mosca’s Cannonau di
Sardegna
Barriques |
Cannonau di Sardegna DOC Vendemmia*
2008, 13.5%, €11.95 (Karwig), 3.5 stars.
This
island wine held my interest from start to finish. Colour is a weakish medium
red but this is Grenache with muscle: mouth filling, juicy, fruity, spicy,
straight-up. A lovely lively wine made from the Cannonau grape, a cousin or
clone of Garnacha. I’m deliberately using the Garnacha here as it was the
Spanish who planted up the island many
moons ago.
This
rugged island version is some distance from the smooth and polite Grenache you
find on the Rhone and none the worse for
that. Variety is the spice of life and this Sardinian effort underlines it.
Shop |
Cannonau di Sardegna DOC Riserva 2007,
14%, €15.25 (Karwig)
Noah, it is said, used
a garnet lantern to help him steer his ark through the dark night. Garrnet is the
colour of this wine and I wouldn’t mind having more of this in the dark nights to
come.
It is a while since I
smelled violets so I can't confirm the label’s description of the bouquet
except to say it is quite a pleasant one. But the mega pleasure comes when the
wine hits the palate. It is like velvet.
The basic Cannonau
above may be Grenache with muscle; this Riserva doesn't lack muscle but let us
say that it is extremely well toned, supple and subtle, positively smooth and altogether
very attractive.
It is a beautiful
mouthful, the finish long and delicious and there are subtle spices from start
to end. One to note, for sure.
·
Vendemmia = Harvest or
vintage.
·
The Cannonau, with a
big load of flavanoids, may be good for your health. Check it out here.
Tuesday, September 6, 2011
TOP NOTCH SANTA RITA RESERVAS
FIRST CLASS SANTA RITA WINES
Carlos (right) and yours truly at Isaacs |
Carlos Gatica, Chief Winemaker
with Santa Rita, the
second biggest wine producer in Chile, was in Cork yesterday and brought a
strong line-up to the Gilbeys Wine Tasting Lunch at Isaacs.
Many of you will be familiar
with the Chilean winery’s 120 series and Carlos referred to the story (with a
strong Irish connection) behind the 120 and you may read more on that here.
Santa Rita’s current mission
though is to “educate” their Irish sellers, including hotels and restaurants
who were well represented here, in an effort to broaden the appreciation of the
better Santa Rita wines and particularly their reservas.
The introductory handshake was
a very pleasant concentrated white: the Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010. This was
accompanied by a selection of tempting tapas.
Could have happily stayed with
those tasty bites but move on we did and Carlos then presented their 2009 Gran Reserva
Medalla Real Chardonnay,
This has quite an intense
bouquet and is a well balanced wine with silky texture and went down well with
a warm salad of Marinated Chicken, smoked bacon and rustic potatoes.
Now it was on to the steak and
the first of the reds. This was the superb Pehmén Carménère 2007 made with grapes from an old vineyard in the
Apalta Valley. Aging is in 100% French oak barrels for 18 months. Really liked
this flavoursome persistent wine.
The cheese made its appearance
as it was time for the piece de résistance: a vertical tasting of the classic
Casa Real. This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon “seeks to obtain the maximum expression
of the Alto Jaheul terroir”. New French oak barrels are used.
Many of you will know that
vertical tasting means tasting the same wine from different years. The vintages
at Isaacs were 2007, 2002 and 1999. The still young 2007, marginally higher in
ABV @ 14.5%, was of excellent quality, the fruit concentrated after a good
year, but was overshadowed by the other two.
The very elegant and
concentrated 2002 (14.4%) was perhaps my favourite. Well balanced with ripe
flavours and tannins, it has a full body and “a sleek finish”.
No vote was taken but the
number one choice was the 1999 (4.3%), an “opulent” wine from an “opulent”
year. The winemaker’s comments covered it all: "As a terroir concept, the 1999
vintage has been undoubtedly considered as the maximum expression of a 100%
Cabernet Sauvignon to date.”
Maipo Valley |
Interesting to note that Santa
Rita has a presence in six wine areas of the country, allowing it to grow many
different kinds of grape and expand its portfolio. Some of their areas are
north of Santiago de Chile, some to the south (Carlos lives in Curicó), some
are close to the coast, others in the foothills of the Andes. The valleys are
Limari, Casablanca, Leyda, Rapel, Maipo and Apalto.
Credit to Gilbeys for putting
on this excellent event “the first of many around the country”. Well done also
to Carlos for his descriptions and humour and for bringing such a stunning selection
to Isaacs.
Monday, September 5, 2011
IRISH MISSING OUT ON PECHARMANT
MISSING OUT ON PECHARMANT
Bergerac's wine museum (with large shop in front) |
According to winesearcher.com,
quite a few Irish merchants stock wines from Bergerac but none stock Pecharmant,
the best red from the area. Just finished off the last of my 2010 holiday
purchases the other day, hence the reason for the search.
Of course, I could have kept it
– they age well – but I was tempted by “drink it now for the pleasure of its
fruit” on the label. Really a pity that it is not available here as it gives
many highly rated and more expensive Bordeaux a run.
Iron in the soil of this sub
region of Bergerac gives the AOC wines (they make only rich red ones)
minerality and grip.
Château de Tiregand Pecharmant 2007, 13%. The blend: Merlot 54%,
Cabernet Sauvignon 23%, Cabernet Franc 18% and Malbec 5%.
Colour is dark red with elegant
aromas of dark fruit. Doesn’t quite match the grip of the Peyretaille (below)
but, in the mouth, it is a beautiful rounded ensemble. The 12 months on oak has
played a part. No wonder, in earlier centuries, the boys of Bordeaux didn’t
want these wines reaching these islands via their port.
Chateau Peyretaille Pecharmant 2007, 12.5%. The blend: Merlot 40%,
Cabernet Franc 40%, Cot 10% and Cabernet Sauvignon 10%.
A typically rich red; moreish,
with a long length; very impressive and not surprised that it won a Silver
Medal at the Grands Vins de France 2009.
Colour is a healthy looking
black cherry red and the lovely fruity nose is very inviting. In the mouth, the
red and black fruit are again prominent and a pleasure. There is a grippy
texture in this excellent well balanced bottle.
Looks like I’ll have to make
another trip to Bergerac!
SPANISH WINE TASTING OFFER
Spanish wine tasting In the Imperial Hotel Cork
Thursday 15th September
5.30pm – 7pm
ONLY €20 Per person
Group offer – Book 4 places and bring 2 more for FREE (Only €13 each)
The embassy of Spain commercial office in association with FOOD&WINE Magazine would like you to join us for a fun night of fine wines and traditional food.
You will have the opportunity to taste up to 150 wines. Meet Ireland‘s leading Spanish wine importers. Ask questions about the wine learn facts and find a new favourite.
Plus sample some of Spain’s finest meats and cheese bought you by Corks very own Horgan’s delicatessen.
So don’t miss out – if you enjoy wine and want to learn more about your favourite Spanish varieties come along with friends, family and colleagues for a Spanish wine tasting extravaganza – In Cork
To book your place, please contact Sarah Currey
On 01240 5387 or emailscurrey@harmonia.ie
Thursday 15th September
5.30pm – 7pm
ONLY €20 Per person
Group offer – Book 4 places and bring 2 more for FREE (Only €13 each)
The embassy of Spain commercial office in association with FOOD&WINE Magazine would like you to join us for a fun night of fine wines and traditional food.
You will have the opportunity to taste up to 150 wines. Meet Ireland‘s leading Spanish wine importers. Ask questions about the wine learn facts and find a new favourite.
Plus sample some of Spain’s finest meats and cheese bought you by Corks very own Horgan’s delicatessen.
So don’t miss out – if you enjoy wine and want to learn more about your favourite Spanish varieties come along with friends, family and colleagues for a Spanish wine tasting extravaganza – In Cork
To book your place, please contact Sarah Currey
On 01240 5387 or emailscurrey@harmonia.ie
Sunday, September 4, 2011
KARWIG: TRYING TO KEEP THE SUMMER ALIVE
Domaine Houchart 2010, Cotes de Provence Rose, 13%, Karwig.
In Roussillon in Provence, built from stone from nearby ochre quarries, I bought the beautiful rosé below left. |
Fair play to Karwig Wines.
They are trying hard to keep the summer alive and this rosé will bring you a
little sunshine from the Midi even if it is dull outside.
They have a great selection on offer and I was tempted by the
Bandol (over a fiver off) but, having tasted a string of Provencal beauties
this summer, I picked the Domaine Houchart Cotes de Provence.
Marcus Gates was helping me make the choices and he says that
the rosés have been flying this summer and the offer will
continue for quite a while yet.
This vineyard is located in Puyloubic, a little village close
to Aix-en-Provence, and has been producing “for more than 100 years famous rosé, red and white wines”. Not too sure about the fame of the
village but rosés in Provence are generally good, even if not always famous.
This pale pink effort by Houchart doesn't disappoint. Nothing
weak about this dry rosé as it roams the taste buds, exciting interest as it gently
rolls. Nice sharpish flavours of white fruit that hit home.
Saturday, September 3, 2011
OYSTERS AT THE RISING TIDE
THE CORK OYSTER FESTIVAL AT THE RISING TIDE
Made a quick visit to Glounthaune's Rising Tide this afternoon to sample the oysters from Haven Shellfish. Trish (left, in photo) was on hand with loads of helpful info on the bi-valves. By the way, if you don't fancy them raw, they are also available cooked and they are delicious. Plenty of time yet to enjoy the crack here as the festival continues to-night and tomorrow Sunday. Great credit to the Rising Tide and Sandra Murphy for putting on this festival on the city's doorstep and credit too to their very courteous and helpful staff.
Made a quick visit to Glounthaune's Rising Tide this afternoon to sample the oysters from Haven Shellfish. Trish (left, in photo) was on hand with loads of helpful info on the bi-valves. By the way, if you don't fancy them raw, they are also available cooked and they are delicious. Plenty of time yet to enjoy the crack here as the festival continues to-night and tomorrow Sunday. Great credit to the Rising Tide and Sandra Murphy for putting on this festival on the city's doorstep and credit too to their very courteous and helpful staff.
Sandra Murphy (far right and centre) is ready for you in the Rising Tide. Well worth a visit. |
Friday, September 2, 2011
Winemaker Dinner at Ballymaloe House
Winemaker Dinner at Ballymaloe House
with owner/winemaker Dave Palmer, Skillogalee, Clare Valley
8pm, Friday 16th September, 2011
Skillogalee is a small family-owned, highly acclaimed, award-winning boutique winery, owned and run by winemaker Dave Palmer (pictured), and his family, set amongst wooded hills in one of the most picturesque parts of the Clare Valley, in South Australia.
Ballymaloe's Colm McCann: "We are delighted to be welcoming Dave Palmer to Ballymaloe, for his first ever winemaker dinner to be held in this part of Ireland, with a great line-up of his wines for the evening – from Sparkling wine, to dry whites, rosé, red wines, and a sweet wine to finish off the evening!
The wines include a Sparkling Wine; a Dry Riesling and the Reserve ‘Trevarrick’ Riesling (sealed under Vino-lok; a glass stopper); a Gewurztraminer; a Rosé; a Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc – labeled ‘The Cabernets’; a Shiraz; and a Liquer Muscat, with a menu to match."
‘Our favourite South Australian winery’ Lonely Planet
‘5 star wines; delicious, complex, and multi-dimensional’ – Decanter Magazine, September issue, 2011
‘Australian Top 100’ – Matthew Jukes
Friday 16th September, 8pm,
€75 including dinner and wines.
Special rate available also for accommodation.
Ballymaloe House, Shanagarry, Co. Cork,
MAHON MARKET VARIETY
MAHON MARKET VARIETY
Click to enlarge |
Many of you will know the Old Millbank stall at the Mahon Point Farmers Market . It is a regular stop of mine, usually for the fine
Irish Organic smoked salmon, sometimes for the salmon fishcakes and also for
the delicious salmon pâté.
Yesterday I noticed a different product there: hummus. There were two
types, one with chilli. I had a taste of both and went for the regular type. They
had a chart (pictured) on the stall detailing the benefits of Hummus. Looks a
good bet!
Moved on a few yards and what did I see but more hummus, this at the Real Olive stall .
They also had two varieties. Bought some semi-dried tomatoes here and also a scoop
of olives.
Also called to the Natural Food Bakery stall and bought one of their white yeast loaves. A lovely bread and absolutely ideal
for use with good quality jams, such as those from Follain in West Cork.
Barry Tyner was in great form as usual. Never a shortage of
tasty pâté
samples here and delighted to get myself a big chunk of that chicken and
brandy one, a lively starter to any meal! No shortage of vegetables in Mahon. Called
to the Ballycurraginny Farm this time and a fiver bought a bunch of carrots, a bunch
of parsnips and a turnip
.
Iain O’Flynn has quite an array of food on his stall; soups,
pates, jams and prepared dishes. On this occasion, I was tempted most by the
Lamb Tagine. Had this before and it is terrific.
Queues at the fish stalls but I was on the lookout for meat
on this occasion and stopped at Martin Conroy’s Woodside Farm ( @Woodside_Farm ) for a great looking pork steak
and a good chat. Another chat at the Glenilen stand before we went off with one of their gorgeous cheesecakes.
Reckon that lot will keep us going for a day or two. Maybe
three!
Thursday, September 1, 2011
WINE DATES TO SAVE!
September 15th, September 15th, September 15th
...Save this date!
October 10th, October
10th, October 10th .......... Save this date too!
September 15th is the date for the first ever
Wines from Spain Tasting in Cork City. Here is your first chance to see
what is on offer in Cork......
The Economic and Commercial Office of the Embassy
of Spain is pleased to announce their first ever Spanish Wine Tasting to
members of the wine press and trade of Cork. The Wines from Spain: Changing
Ways, which will take place on the September 15th at the Imperial Hotel, Cork
City.
Over 180 wines, will be on show at Wines from
Spain Tasting with the collaboration of 17 Irish importers of Spanish Wine.
To view all importers and wines participating this year and download
pictures, please view the Wines from Spain's Irish blog: spanishwineweek.ie
October 10th is the date
for the Annual Wines from Spain Tasting in Dublin, this is the event's 7th year running in Dublin. The Wines from
Spain: Changing Ways will take place at the Shelbourne Hotel.
2011 sees the return of the ever popular
Christmas Stars competition, this year the competition will be on the best
Sherries available in Ireland. The results of which will be sent in time for
all Christmas publications. Another first this year is the introduction
of a Jerez Room exclusively showcasing the best Jerez wines in Ireland.
Over 350 wines, the
highest number yet, will be on show at Wines from Spain Tasting with the
collaboration of 19 Irish importers and 15 Spanish wineries seeking
representation. To view all importers, wines and
wineries participating this year and download pictures, please view
the Wines from Spain's Irish blog: spanishwineweek.ie
WELL FED AT BLAIRS INN
BLAIRS INN
All the hanging baskets and window boxes were catching the sun as I
landed at Blairs Inn in Cloghroe yesterday for lunch.
Blairs bills itself
as a traditional pub and restaurant and is popular with tourists and locals
alike. It is regarded as one of the top gastro-pubs in the country and you’ll
be well fed here.
Dishes in Blairs are quite substantial, so we skipped the starter and,
while waiting for the mains, enjoyed a bottle of that splendid Stonewell cider
(€5.50) from Nohoval. The Braised Shank of Lamb on a basil mash, served with a
Redcurrant and Rosemary jus, arrived and looked good in the dish.
Then another dish arrived! With the vegetables: turnips, broccoli and
carrots, all cooked to perfection. And that wasn't all as there was also some
top notch baked potatoes (smooth roosters) there. Quantity for sure and quality also.
Took my time with that lot but there was zilch left on the main plate
and that pleased our hosts no end. Service, with a smile,
was excellent and courteous and no pressure to take dessert or coffee. Beyond
me, in any case.
The bill, for two lamb and two cider, came to €46.90.
Wednesday, August 31, 2011
HANDSOME SICILIAN
Feudo Montoni Catarratto Sicily 2009, IGT, 13%, €15.50 (Bubble
Bros)
Catarratto is one of the most
heavily planted grape varieties in Italy and yet is found only in Sicily but
you’ll be hard pressed to find anything good written about it.
One of the most “positive”
sentences I’ve seen on it comes in Hugh Johnson’s 2011 Pocket Wine Book:
“Sicilian white grape with as yet unrealised potential”.
The winemakers at historic Feudo
Montoni (well known for their Nero D’Avola reds) have realised some of that
potential in this bottle and credit too to Bubble Brothers, who
also sell the Nero D’Avola, for going with it.
Indeed, they are quite proud of
it: “This is a feather in our white wine cap, and no mistake. Made from
old vines set high above sea level in north-eastern Sicily, Fabio Sireci's
Catarratto combines citrus freshness with the substantial body and mellowness
of Catarratto when grown with a special varietal wine in mind.
Despite taking full advantage of the torrid Sicilian sun to offer ripe, peachy fruit, this is a crisply focused dry wine with more edge and minerality than you might expect from the island, and a persistent finish in keeping with the overall impression of refined, opulent craftsmanship.”
Despite taking full advantage of the torrid Sicilian sun to offer ripe, peachy fruit, this is a crisply focused dry wine with more edge and minerality than you might expect from the island, and a persistent finish in keeping with the overall impression of refined, opulent craftsmanship.”
The colour is that of pale
honey with a pleasant if moderate aromatic nose. On the palate, you have a rich
texture and perfect balance of fruitiness and acidity and a pleasant lengthy
finish. Perhaps the fact that it is made from fifty year old vines had something
to with the quality here.
If you are looking for a change
from the usual white grapes, then this is well worth a try. Why not drop down
to Bubble Bros in Centre Park Road and see if they have it on their
multi-bottle temperature controlled tasting device?
By the way. I have added it to My Favourite Wines 2011.
By the way. I have added it to My Favourite Wines 2011.
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
THE RETURN OF THE CHEF FACTOR
Chef Factor is
back for 2011!
L-R: Sully, last year's winner Christine Crowley, Rachel Allen and Cully. |
Colum O'Sullivan, of Cully & Sully, has been in touch with the news that the Chef Factor is to return this autumn.
"We’re proud to say that its return has
been widely tipped as one of the hottest events in food to watch out for this
year. The prize is the same as last year- a place on January’s coveted 12
week Ballymaloe cookery course including accommodation, together worth over
€12,000 euro and will include two weeks with myself and Cully to learn the
ways of the food business. Lat year's winner Christine is doing really well now, running her own tearooms and everything!"
"Again we’re
really trying to get across that Chef Factor is for anybody who wants to
learn how to cook and develop their own career in food. You don’t need to
be a good cook to enter as the prize is professional training in one of the
world’s leading cookery schools. We are simply looking for someone who really
wants to win this once in a lifetime opportunity. You can enter anything
you like-from beans on toast to
a risotto, from steak to a cake!"
"We are also
trying to remind entrants that Chef Factor is not all about online votes, as
while three finalists will be determined by public vote, two wildcards will be
handpicked by Cully and I to go through irrespective of votes and all finalists
will be on an equal footing at the final. Everybody stands a great chance of
winning the top prize!! Entrants are accepted from September 5th, 2011 and the
winner is expected to be chosen in Ballymaloe on Saturday the 26th of November."
Entering is the
same as last year- EASY PEASY! All
you have to do is upload a simple photo of a dish with the words “Cully &
Sully” somewhere in the image and submit this to cheffactor.ie along with a brief explanation of the
dish and the reason why you deserve to win!
Mas de la Dame La Stèle Blanc 2010
Mas
de la Dame La Stèle Blanc 2010, Vin de Pays des Alpilles, 13.5%, €9.20 at
the vineyard.
“One day, the sea will recover the land and will
stop at the Stèle (stone marker) of Mas de la Dame. So spoke Nostradamus.
The sea could well one day sweep up the flatlands
of the Camargue and head for the historic farmhouse (mas) of la Dame. So I
thought I’d help myself to some of their organic wine this summer during my
hols in Provence.
This white is a blend of Rolle (80%) and Clairette.
It has the colour of a well watered down whiskey and an aromatic nose. Dry and
tasty, this classy fresh wine has a smooth and rounded mouthfeel with a mix of
white fruit flavours spreading gently all over the palate, enough to allow a generous seepage
into a lovely finish.
Aside from being mentioned in
the predictions of Nostradamus, Mas de la Dame was painted by Van Gogh, and
referred to by Simone de Beauvoir (famed 20th century French
author-philosopher).
We had a lovely visit here in
June and after tasting bought this white and some Stèle rouge 2006. They also
do Olive Oil but we had already shopped for that at the nearby Castelas.
Unfortunately this fabulous
wine is not available for sale in Ireland. But if you are in France, keep an
eye out for it and grab some while you can. That Nostradamus fellow might just
be correct!
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