Chapter One. A Chef and His Suppliers

Chapter One

A Chef and His Suppliers

Japanese Pearl Tapioca

When visiting a restaurant for the first time, I look at the suppliers list. Quite often, I need look no further. Here’s why: Our location on the Northside of Dublin was a notoriously difficult place to trade. Yet people who cared about food came, and suppliers who were passionate about their uniquely Irish produce came too – integrity of produce was what united us. We rely on their drive, passion and determination to achieve so much of what we do here.

The words in italics are from the website of Chapter One. So, okay, I'd have to be living in cloud cuckoo land not to have heard of Ross Lewis, the chef there. But I know him, met him for the first time late last year, and met him again the other night where his restaurant is;  the location - under the Dublin Writers Museum - explains it name.

Chilled Clarenbridge Oysters

But I have known most of his suppliers for much longer and it is they who give me the confidence to go to Chapter One and to many other restaurants around the country. As Ross says, the influence of the suppliers cannot be underestimated. Check here for a full list (and some photos) of the Chapter One suppliers.

But Chef Lewis brings the produce to another level here and so we come, and so do so many more, to the basement at north end of O'Connell Street. Lots of little stories here, including the fact that Mary Robinson met her husband-to-be in the National Ballroom more or less next door. Those of us of a certain age have our little and big stories of the ballrooms - I credit The Freshman with mine, but it's a long, many decades long, story!

Jumbo green asparagus

But time now for the food and the wine, the superb tasting menu and the matching wines at Chapter One. Service, as you might expect, was impeccable.

We started with the Japanese pearl tapioca with matured Gabriel cheese, peas and truffle and the wine was Lustau, Los Arcos, Dry Amontillado. Lustau is perhaps my favourite sherry producer and this was a magic match.

****

Lobster

Course Two was Chilled poached Clarenbridge oyster with Mulloy’s smoked haddock, seaweed jelly. Domaine Chatelain, ‘Les Charmes’ Pouilly Fumé 2011 was the excellent wine, matching the dish.

Then came the Roasted jumbo green asparagus with shellfish and lemon butter.

Heinz W, Joseph Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal; the Austrian wine, a favourite of ours and of our server, was just perfect with the asparagus.

*****

Loin of rabbit

Course Four was Lobster with fermented horseradish and cauliflower. This was an upgrade from scallops and the stunning young Burgundy, Domaine Jean-Baptiste Ponsot, Rully 2013, which was aromatic, fresh and delicate, enhanced the flesh.

****

Now we were back on Terra Firma (almost!).  Pig’s tail stuffed with Fingal Ferguson’s bacon and Dublin bay prawn, basil purée and citrus mustard fruit. Patrice Cacheux et Fils, Hautes Côtes de Nuits ‘Tilles’ 2013. Some terrific wines all through but this Pinot Noir was outstanding.

Irish Coffee on the way!

Last of the meat was Loin of rabbit and Parma ham farce wrapped in pancetta with parsley and barley risotto, roasted balsamic carrots, poached spring onion and crumble. The Simone-Joseph, Beaumes de Venise ‘La Vigne Corbée’ 2012, was fruity, dry and refreshing and boasted a long finish. Just the job for the delicious rabbit.

****

The gorgeous sweet course was Baked lemon curd with praline mousse, meringue crisps, buckwheat ice cream and hazelnut tuille and that was accompanied by Miguel Torres, ‘Nectaria’ Botrytis Riesling, Curico Valley 2009.

Might have expecting a sweet Beaumes de Venises after the previous wine but we were in for another lovely surprise with this Nectaria, highlighted in a shortlist by Evan Goldstein in his Wines of South America (2014). What other treasures has Chile in store for us? This is a gem worth seeking out.

****

Jack McCarthy (left), one of Chapter One's suppliers,
pictured with Yours Truly in Kanturk.
Jack's castle is in the background!

As we nibbled our way through the chocolate rich Petit Fours, we gave thanks to Mr Lewis and his friendly and efficient staff, front of house and in the kitchens, to the suppliers up and down this land - again I quote from the Chapter One website - a land that is the inspiration “that enriches the work of poets, artists, farmers and chefs”.

Long may the customers continue to come to the door of Chapter One. They will be well fed and fed well in this Michelin starred restaurant.

See also:
The National Botanic Gardens visit
Teeling Distillery visit
Dinner of Delights at Restaurant Forty One

44 Hours in Dublin

44 Hours in Dublin

Well over 2000 years between the Meathman (below) and Jedward. But look at the hairstyles. Gel (probably imported from Spain or France) was used, certainly by the Meathman! The Meathman, one of bodies recovered from Irish bogs, may be seen in the Museum of Archaelogy, Jedward in the Wax Museum (Dublin) 

I spent a pretty “busy” 44 hours in Dublin this week. My base was at Albany House, an elegant Georgian guest house just off St Stephen's Green. The 3 star establishment, about one hundred yards down Harcourt Street, was so well placed for the events I needed to get to and at a total of €108.00 for the two of us (two nights B&B), it was also very economical.

They do not have an elevator in the building, but offer all the other amenities you would expect from a modern 3-star city centre guest house. Well kept clean rooms (much bigger than you'd find in city centre hotels in Paris or Rome) include free Wi-Fi throughout. An extensive continental breakfast is available every morning, and is included in all room rates.

That breakfast, by the way, is taken in a gorgeous room. You’d easily imagine you were in Ballymaloe or Fleming’s but for the green Luas purring by on the street outside. There is 24 hour reception and the staff are very friendly and helpful. Easy to reach too from Heuston Station. If you have some baggage, you'd be better off to get the 145 bus to the green; travelling light, and with time on your hands, you might opt for the red Luas to the city centre and then cross the river and stroll up through Temple Bar and Grafton Street.

No blogger was harmed during taking of this photo.

Our first call (after a 2.00pm check-in) was to the Wax Museum in Temple Bar. Spread over four floors, it is pretty cramped but very interesting. It has a children's section (with a crawl through tunnel), an eye-opening hands-on Science and Discovery Room (a tribute to the many Irish pioneers), a Chambers of Horrors, even a recording studio, all included before you reach the Grand Hall of Fame, the museum’s best display and a tribute to the stars of movies and music. There is an admission charge.

That evening, we headed off to the other side of the green towards Ely Place and dinner at the ely Wine Bar. See separate post here.

Wednesday was to prove a packed day. First up was the Liberty Wine Portfolio Tasting in Fallon and Byrne. After a pleasant couple of hours we left there and made our way past the green to Leeson Street Lower and eventually to lunch at the Forest Avenue Restaurant, see post here

Ardagh Chalice

Our next call was the National Museum of Archaeology in Kildare Street, again quite close to Stephen’s Green. No admission fee here but there really should be. It is a superb building - take  a look at the ornamented interior doors as you go around and do look up at the magnificent domed ceiling in the entrance hall.

There are many enthralling exhibitions here including The Treasury (which includes rare finds such as the Ardagh Chalice and the Derrynaflan Hoard) and Ireland's Gold (an amazing amount of it, and in so many amazing shapes, including huge box earrings!)

Gold Collar (Co. Clare), 800-700BC

Perhaps the outstanding section is the Kingship and Sacrifice exhibition that concentrates on a number of recently found bog bodies dating back to the Iron Age. Here you come face to face with your ancient ancestors, some of them cruelly dispatched.

The evening ended on a much lighter note, some very high ones actually. We went to see New Jersey Nights at the Gaiety, the story of Frankie Valli and the four seasons, song and dance from start to finish, including numbers such as Oh What a Night, Bye Bye Baby, Sherry, Rag Doll, Walk Like a Man, Big Girls Don't Cry. Lots of big girls in the audience too - they outnumbered the much quieter fellas by about nine to one, out-sang them too. Great night out and then it was a short stroll back to Albany House.

Good Food Ireland Conference. And Awards

Good Food Ireland Conference
And Awards

Pádraig Ó’Céidigh

Didn't expect a clinical psychologist to be the star speaker at the annual Good Food Ireland conference in the Shelbourne Hotel (Dublin) yesterday. But that psychologist was Dr Maureen Gaffney and she took the room by storm as she looked at the Feel Good Factor.

Must admit I’m one of those people who just love to see a smile. Maureen says smiles “are all important”. “People are ready to co-operate with you..work on it.. smiles help to form that very important first impression. We all have bad days .. act positively especially when things are bad.” She said there is  evidence that shows that smiling even helps the smiler. “It triggers (even fools) your brain”.

And she also pointed out that a negative mood in the team leader can have a negative influence on the staff, your staff. This is a “high risk” to business. So learn to smile. Cheese!

“Get your self right..then you'll get a whole lot more right. Learn, achieve, grow. Vision is vitally important, start with your vision. Values are really important, not just accessories...There is evidence that people driven by a higher set of values do better.”

Maureen Gaffney (left) and Xanthe Clay

Set challenges, she urged. “Keep learning, growing, have projects, invest time and effort in them. And connect! Not just on digital platforms but also in the real world, family, friends, clubmates. These real connections will provide “personal experience and insight, contextual information, personal recommendations”.

So get social,and get connected, she urged. And she ended with a reminder about that smile. “Nurture your optimism!”

Xanthe Clay, author and journalist, spoke on the fickle British market, especially the fickle press. One day they headline that coffee is good for you, a week later they say it is bad for you. She urged irish producers to give value for money and highlighted the importance of trust (especially after the rocky year that saw the horse meat scandal gallop across the headlines). “Be open, she said. “Show people what you do. If you do add an additive to your food, list it, explain it.” Much better than your customers ambushed by the news in the press later on.

Asked what were the outstanding Irish qualities, she didn't hesitate: “Tradition, warmth, quality. These never go out of fashion.”

Coming into fashion is Origin Green, Bord Bia’s new programme to enhance and promote sustainability and explained on stage by Una Fitzgibbon. This was quite a sombre presentation, no jokes here. Great to see producers such as the Apple Farm’s Con Traas and Stonewell Cider’s Daniel Emerson being very enthusiastic about it on a short film. “This is a big deal,”said conference chair Darragh McCullough. “Only going to get bigger.”

Margot Slattery of Sodexo started with some very impressive numbers: purchases of some 18 million euro in Ireland every year. 420,000 employees worldwide and growing. “We stand for sustainability and fresh food” as client companies are looking for healthy weight and healthy life for their employees. Sodexo run gyms, even detox programmes.

Siobhain from Kalbo's and Yours Truly

Margot said they feed 50,000 a day in ireland. “Not frozen food, these are cooked, from scratch, on a daily basis.”

Just before a break for lunch, there was a panel discussion on Digital Marketing and two bits of advice emerged, at least two that I noted. Check out the recent changes in YouTube as they make it more interesting to business. And also have a look at Vine for short video promotions.

If Maureen Gaffney was the morning star then Pádraig Ó’Céidigh caught the attention in the afternoon. The founder of Aer Arann took us on a flight. He started in the Comfort Zone, then challenged us to enter the Stretch Zone before warning us about the perils of the Danger Zone (here, you can damage yourself, he reported, from experience).

Kevin and Réidín from Sage

Citing the small beginnings of what is now the Kerry group in 1972 and the choice made by Clonakilty Black Pudding’s Colette Twomey to run the company after the death of her husband as examples of leaving the comfort zone.

And Padraig is optimistic right now. “This is a great time to be an entrepreneur. There is great optimism out there, great opportunities. Time to leave the comfort zone.”

“There have never been such a demand for good quality food. Be solid on your own two feet, use what’s between your ears. No reason why we can't have another Kerry.”

The world will go on with you or without you. Make sure it’s with you. Believe it and go for it. Never forget your roots and use that little bit of Gaeilge!”

An afternoon panel discussion on our food future produced some interesting points. Martin Shanahan thought too much of our fish is being exported. Country Choice’s Peter Ward urged the industry to be creative, to re-invent our own Irish produce. Chapter One’s Ross Lewis says he sees confidence building in young Irish chefs, “not necessarily mimicking foreign chefs.The industry has changed more in the last three years than in the previous thirty.”

Minister for Tourism Alan Varadkar launched the Good Food Ireland prepaid MasterCard, a food travel passport for visitors to the county’s producers, shops and restaurants and said he was encouraged by progress in tourism numbers this year and employment growth in the industry. He lauded the “great decision” by government colleagues to retain the 9% VAT and acknowledged that lobbying had had its effect and confirmed that there were no plans to increase the rate in the future. We are very much in recovery mode.”

The delegates assembled in the same room for a cracking dinner in the evening. Skeaghanore Duck and Clare Island salmon were the centrepieces, all washed down by superb wines from Classic Drinks.

The awards were announced as the desserts were being served and the large Cork contingent had plenty to cheer about with Midleton's Sage Restaurant, URRU Culinary Store in Bandon, MIlleens Cheese, Kalbo’s Cafe in Skibbereen and Kinsale’s Fishy Fishy all winning their categories.

One of the loudest cheers of the night went to Ballymaloe’s Rory O'Connell who was declared Ambassador of the Year, mainly for his part in feeding, at short notice, 10,000 delegates at the recent Web Summit. Mount Juliet won three awards including the Supreme Award and Restaurant of the Year Award.

All the awards were presented by An Taoiseach Enda Kenny who smilingly indicated there were three women he must listen to: Mrs Kenny, Angela Merkel and Margaret Jeffares (the dynamo behind Good Food Ireland).

Enjoyable Eating at BT Dublin

Eating at BT Dublin

Parmesan crusted chicken

Shop ‘til you drop they say but there really is no need to go that far, especially if you are in the Brown Thomas Store in Dublin. Here they have a superb in-house restaurant on the third level, run by the sisters Peaches and Domini Kemp. It is a stylish bright area with stylish bright food but the style is always accompanied by a genuine substance, much of the food locally sourced. Service is really excellent and the seating is comfortable, toilets nearby.

Had a lovely lunch there recently. Had a great mix on the plate: Parmesan crusted free-range Irish chicken, sautéed potatoes, shallot and tomato dressing, and rocket. At €17.50 it was the most expensive dish on the menu but well worth it.

Goat cheese salad

Warm Fivemiletown Goat Cheese salad with Puy Lentils, roast beetroot, baby spinach, micro herbs and roast hazelnuts was another lovely plateful, priced at €15.90, and thoroughly enjoyed by CL. They have a great choice of mains, including Pasta of the Day, Asian spiced crab cakes and Soy and Ginger glazed salmon.

CL went for the healthy dessert option, quite a colourful and tasty one: Raw energy fruit salad – pineapple, mango, grapes, melon and mixed berries (6.90). I didn’t have the energy for that so settled for large cookie and a great cup of coffee. Back to the shopping after that enjoyable interlude!

By the way, the Kemp sisters also run the restaurant in the Brown Thomas store in Cork. Must check it out!

Quality and Value at Toscana

Quality and Value at Toscana

Warm colours outside and a warm welcome inside. That was the experience at Toscana in Dublin’s Dame Street last week. And it didn’t flatter to deceive as I enjoyed a really good lunch at this city centre Italian restaurant, established over a decade ago.

Had a good look at their lunch offer of two courses for ten euro. You could pick from four starters and seven main courses. But since we were on a break and had time to spare we picked from the A La Carte which went way beyond the normal pasta and pizza lists.

Pollo

 I settled on their Pollo alla Toscana: Chicken Supreme with Spinach, Three Cheeses, wrapped in Parma Ham and served with a white wine and mustard cream (€16.95). I was given a choice of sides and went for their salad. Must say I thoroughly enjoyed this light and tasty dish and that salad.

Most of their fresh produce (vegetables and salads) comes from their own farm (in Wicklow) and not too many restaurants can say that. CL ordered the Duck Salad (€16.75) which consisted of warm fresh duck, rocket and mixed leaves, sun ripened cherry tomatoes, sweet balsamic and parmesan shavings. Another substantial plateful and a really satisfying one.

They have many menus here so it is well worth checking out the website before you go. And there is no shortage of choice on the wine front either, the vast majority of it from Italy. If you are going by the glass, you have four choices in red and four in white, but, if you are going by the bottle, you could be a while making up your mind as the wines come from all parts, from the north to the south and not forgetting the islands!

Duck Salad

The place is neat and tidy and the wall decor consists of large black and white photos of Italian characters going about their daily lives, not the film stars you sometimes see in Italian restaurants. The place can cater for couples or larger groups and I would like to go back there by night as I reckon you’d have a great atmosphere, especially on Sunday when a singer entertains.

Service is friendly and efficient and the prices are reasonable for the excellent quality delivered to your table. Definably worth a try.

Dame Street - Opposite Dublin Castle, Dublin 2.
Hours
Mon - Thu: 12:00 pm - 11:00 pm
Fri - Sat: 12:00 pm - 12:00 am
Sun: 12:00 pm - 11:00 pm
Phone (01) 670 9785
Email damestreet@toscanarestaurant.ie

Enjoyable Stay at Dublin’s Ashling Hotel

Enjoyable Stay at Dublin’s Ashling Hotel

The four star Ashling Hotel  in Parkgate Street, just 200 metres from Heuston Station, was my base for a recent short stay in Dublin. With the station so close, and two Luas stops nearby, and visits to the Zoo and the Guinness Storehouse on the agenda, it was a convenient location.

And also a very good one. The staff, day and evening, were brilliant, at reception, in the restaurant and in the bar. The place was bright and smart and there was very comfortable seating in the public areas.

Anyone for Breakfast?

Chesterfield Avenue is nearby and takes you to the Zoo and the hotel restaurant has the same name. It also has lots of good Irish produce. I thoroughly enjoyed my Silver Hill Duck and Quail Salad. And that was followed by a delicious falling-off-the-bone shank of Galway lamb. The choice at breakfast, also served in Chesterfield’s, was huge, quality all the way.

Chicken and Gammon Sandwich in the bar.

 This being Guinness country, the busy spacious bar is named the Iveagh Bar. No Irish craft beer here but did enjoy a few pints of Erdinger and found the bar food excellent on the one occasion we ate there.

Restaurant dessert

 They are strict enough about check-in and check-out time but will hold your luggage for you, which is a handy facility. There are quite a few attractions in the immediate area, including the gaol and museum in Kilmainham. But it is very easy to get to the city centre. You’d walk it in about 20 minutes; the Luas is very convenient and so too is the bus.

Highly recommended.

Silver Hill Duck and Quail Salad in restaurant

Guinness Storehouse Visit

Guinness Storehouse Visit

Got a terrific welcome as we arrived in the multi-storey Guinness Storehouse in Dublin last week. The place was surprisingly busy for the time of year but there was still time for the personal touch. The staff that we met were top class, friendly, helpful and informative. Chatty too and unhurried. Take a bow folks.

The Atrium is the central focus of the building and is in the shape of a giant pint glass. Some pint! 14.3 millions pints to be exact.

Water - a key ingredient

The self guided tour has a variety of sub headings. The ingredients (the brewery buys 100,000 tonnes of Irish barley annually) and craft of brewing, cooperage and transportation, advertising and sponsorship are among the subjects covered.

Lots of info. Not just words and images. See the actual machinery as well

As you move up the floors (via a combination of stairs, lifts and escalators), you’ll come to a spot where you’ll learn to pour your own perfect pint. Too many waiting there so we moved on up and had a look at the Brewer’s Dining Hall where a visitor can sample their “world famous” Beef and Guinness stew.

Good old days. I liked this cheeky one.

The Gravity Bar takes over the top floor and there is a 360 degree view of the city to be enjoyed, if you can find a space. We were patient with our free pint and eventually found a chair and enjoyed the views.

You can check all this out before you go on a well illustrated very informative and comprehensive website. You may also book your tickets online at a discount. Having your tickets in advance will save you from joining the bigger queues on arrival.

The view from the Gravity Bar.

Good Food Ireland pop-up; Dublin Gourmet Stroll

Experience GOOD FOOD IRELAND Pop up at Kildare Village Summer time Festival

For the second year the Good Food Ireland Pop-up will be at Kildare Village for the designer outlet shopping village’s Chic Summer Festival. The Good Food Ireland pop-up will showcase the very best of high quality, Irish-produced food with Irish ingredients. You will be able to dine around Ireland in one location by enjoying delicious food from Good Food Ireland-approved providers every weekend from 7th July to 19th August.

This is a rare opportunity to meet the people behind the food from the cheese maker to the chef, to the sausage maker to the restaurateur while enjoying at the same time the best of designer shopping. Dishes will range from Prime Hereford Steak Ciabatta, Artisan Sausages, and Warm Bacon Blaas as well as lots more sumptuous treats!

“The Good Food Ireland Pop Up is an amazing experience for Shoppers, the opportunity to meet the people behind the food from all around Ireland and enjoy their food while taking in the best of designer outlet shopping”, says Margaret Jeffares, Managing Director Good Food Ireland.

With such a selection to choose from, breakfast, lunch and dinner are all taken care of and these are not just tasters, they offer amazing value. For more information on the Good Food Ireland Pop Up visit www.goodfoodireland.ie

THE DUBLIN GOURMET STROLL WITH MATT FULLER…

June 2012: This summer treat yourself to something special with a city break at the Five Star Fitzwilliam Hotel Dublin. Dublin’s premier boutique hotel has created four luxurious packages, perfect for a stylish Summer city break in the heart of Dublin.

Foodies love to touch, they love to smell and most of all they love to taste! This tactile bunch will meet their match with Fitzwilliam Hotel Dublin Head Chef, Matt Fuller. The Dublin Gourmet Stroll gives guests at the hotel the chance to walk through the city, under the close eye of Matt, who will ‘dish’ the dirt on the hidden tricks of the trade, ever wondered where Ireland’s top chefs go seeking inspiration? Matt is ready to lift the proverbial lid!

Once you have sampled the delights of Dublin’s burgeoning food scene, and learned of the best cheesemongers, sommeliers, & baristas in the area, the gastronomic adventure continues in Citron Restaurant at The Fitzwilliam Hotel, where Matt will talk you through a delicious three course meal with culinary highlights including;  Hand Dived Scallops with vanilla potatoes, passion fruit air & carrot saffron purée,  and a Pigeon & Foie Gras with creamy cep rice, apple, blackberry purée & artichoke.

Before you are enveloped in the cool crisp Egyptian cotton sheets of your Deluxe Executive Suite, enjoy a well- deserved Digestif in the hotel’s Inn on the Green bar.

The Dublin Gourmet Stroll package also includes a hearty breakfast on the day of departure,  car parking facilities, wireless internet access and all rates and service charges and costs €275 pps. Price available on request. www.fitzwilliamhoteldublin.com  / www.facebook.com/fitzwilliamdublin  / www.twitter.com/fitzwilliamdub

PICHET SCOOPS SANTA RITA AWARD

Top restaurants announced at

The Dubliner 100 Best Restaurants 2012 in association with Santa Rita

Santa Rita People’s Choice Award goes to

Pichet while Derry Clarke scoops the

Santa Rita Chef’s Chef of the Year Award

Pichet has been announced as the winner of the Santa Rita People’s Choice Award at the launch of The Dubliner 100 Best Restaurants 2012 in association with Santa Rita, the must-have annual guide to the best eating out destinations in Dublin.

The Santa Rita People’s Choice Award ten most popular restaurants in Dublin, as voted by the public, are as follows:

1. Pichet
2. The Exchequer
3. Junior’s
4. Chapter One
5. Eatery 120
6. Dillinger’s
7. Jo Burger
8. Dax
9. Saba
10. The Trocadero

Each year, chefs and restaurateurs nominate the Dublin chef they most admire and this year’s Santa Rita Chef’s Chef Award goes to Derry Clarke of L’Ecrivain. Honourable mentions included:

·         Ross Lewis, Chapter One

·         Kevin Thornton, Thornton's

·         Padraic Hayden, Camden Kitchen

·         Dylan McGrath, Rustic Stone

The Dubliner 100 Best restaurants, in association with Santa Rita, which is now in its 10^th year of publication, features a host of dining options across the capital, including fine dining, casual eateries, family friendly venues, local favourites and hidden gems.

Copies of the 2012 guide to the 100 Best Restaurants are on

sale in bookshops across the country.

Sallyanne Cooney, General Manager of Gleeson’s incorporating Gilbey’s, which distributes Santa Rita wine in Ireland, says:

“Santa Rita, the leading Chilean wine in Ireland, is delighted to be associated once again with The Dubliner 100 Best Restaurants guide for the tenth year running. The ‘Santa Rita People’s Choice Award’ continues to be the most sought after accolade for Dublin restaurants, as it is voted for by the public – the toughest critics of all! We’d like to offer our heartfelt congratulations to Pichet, Derry Clarke and indeed the 100 Best Restaurants in Dublin for 2012”