Amuse Bouche

The seminary was renowned for its food, the produce of its out-farms. Plates of sliced pork, cured ham and pressed tongue were laid out on white tablecloths in the lee of the sand dunes. We poured home-made lemonade from glass bottles. Some of the lads had gathered flotsam and we boiled up the water we had brought.

I had known for thirty minutes that I had made the wrong choice in life.

from The Trout by Peter Cunningham (2016). Very Highly Recommended

Feed Your Senses. Alimenta Tus Sentidos

Feed Your Senses

Alimenta Tus Sentidos 

Delicias Alicantinas

It is a cold night in the city but we are snug inside 27 Washington Street with some warming Spanish food. And downing a glass or two of Juan Gil’s red wine (Monastrell grape) from Jumilla, not normally available by the glass (€6.50). Pleasant and easy drinking, it is one of this evening’s Chef Recommendations (Specials) at Feed Your Senses (or Alimenta Tus Sentidos) a Spanish Tapas restaurant that has been operating here since early 2015.

It is a small place, so we booked. In out of the cold, we had a table by the window as we studied the specials and the full menu, lots of small and bigger tapas. There are various little “bites” and salads but we were seeking warm stuff and went straight to that section.

Spuds and two sauces

 Two dishes came together - we were sharing all through. The Delicias Alicantinas were Fried Dates (with the stone removed and replaced by an Almond “heart" and wrapped in bacon (€5.00). A little piece of Alicante heaven, they promised, and it certainly was.

The other special was Patatas Bravas Two Sauces (€8.00). The sauces were hot brava and alioli and they made it a delicious plateful. Later, I was wondering why we Irish, long-time spud lovers, haven’t taken this dish on board in our homes and restaurants.

"Queen Tapa"

 The Croquetas de Jamón were next up. These Ham croquettes, “our Queen tapa”, “soft and creamy”, were served with home-made Escalivada (8.00). They were indeed soft and creamy, with added flavour from the little crunchy bits of ham. The sauce is of roasted vegetables, somewhat similar to ratatouille.

As we were tucking into the croquettes, the Homemade Meatballs, or Albondigas to give them their proper name, arrived. These Spanish meatballs, are made with Irish beef and pork, onion, garlic, etc., and served with home-made tomato sauce and hand-cut chips. (10.50). A lovely warm dish for the night that was in it.

Meat Balls

 And this time we had room for dessert or at least for the small one we noticed on the recommendations for the day: Strawberry and Crema Catalana (3.00). A vasito of creamy deliciousness each, under a crispy topping, to send us on our way.

The Spanish products do of course come from Spain but the restaurant relies heavily on local producers and number the Alternative Bread Company, Ballycotton Seafood, Kay O’Connell, the Chicken Inn, Hassett’s Bakery among their suppliers in the English Market.

Postre

Feed Your Senses

27 Washington Street West

Cork

Tel: (021) 427 4633

Email: info@feedyoursenses.ie

Web: http://www.feedyoursenses.ie/

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/feedyoursense/

Quality Hat Trick from Karwig Wines

Carl Ehrhard Spätburgunder Blanc de Noirs trocken, Rüdesheimer, Rheingau (DQ) 2011, 12%, €17.80 Karwig Wines

A rosé by any other name. 

Blanc de Noirs: a white wine made from red grapes! The Pinot Noir grapes are pressed and left on the skins for only a small amount of time, giving this red wine a clear colour with a hint of rose. The wine is  fermented 50% in stainless steel and 50% in mature oak barrels giving both a freshness and maturity.

Rose/gold is the attractive colour and you’ll see lots of micro bubbles hanging around.  The inviting floral aromas are the next sign that this is going to be good. And your feelings are soon confirmed by the beautiful concentrated fruit flavours, with a pleasant tingle. It is smooth, with a gorgeous balance. Crisp and refreshing from start to long finish, this is a treat and Very Highly Recommended.

Pair with fresh cheese, salads, poultry, seafood or enjoy on its own.

Chateau Paul Mas Clos du Mures, Coteaux du Languedoc (AOP) 2013, 14.5%, €21.15 Karwig Wines

You’ll see Vinus the heron on the front label of these wines. The story goes he preferred eating grapes grown on the clay and limestone hills of the hillsides of the Hérault Valley to the fish from the river. And so the heron was adopted by Paul Mas as the symbol of the quality of the fruit.

The fruit in this case is a blend of Syrah (majority) and Grenache, “a marriage made in heaven” with the promise “of some delicious pleasures”.

Colour is a deep purple and there is an intense nose, mainly of dark fruits. On the palate it is rich fruit, some spice, toasted notes and fine tannins; it is well balanced and the finish is strong and long. This smooth customer certainly delivers on pleasure and is Very Highly Recommended.

Food pairing suggestions: 17 to 18°C with preferably pasta dishes, beef stews, red meat, game, pate and soft full flavour cheeses.

Jerome Quiot Gigondas (AC) 2010, 14%, €25.15 Karwig Wines.

First things first: decant this dark red, a delicious blend of Grenache and Syrah, vinified “according to traditional methods”. Serving temperature should be about 16 degrees and do serve it “in large glasses”. Matches recommended are cooked pork, lamb, red meat, duck and olives, cheeses.

Rich fruit and warm notes of the local scrub (garrigue) abound in the aromas. All that is found too on the palate, some spice too; quite a Rhone classic really with a long finalé. Very Highly Recommended.

Taste of the Week. Loughbeg Farm Oat Bread

Taste of the Week

Loughbeg Farm Oat Bread

From Loughbeg Farm, west of Schull, comes a by now rather famous Oat Loaf, our Taste of the Week. Famous because it has filled a gap in the gluten free market and because Walter Ryan-Purcell, the man behind the venture, made a memorable appearance on Dragon’s Den last year, leaving with the support of not one but two of the dragons.

It started off on a very small scale with Walter and wife Josephine experimenting with the recipe in their farmhouse. But gradually they got it right and then Loughbeg benefited from the Supervalu Food Academy and now the loaf is widely available. 

The ingredients are milk, gluten free oatlets (41%), olive oil, bread soda, lemon juice and salt. I picked up a loaf in Bradley’s (early supporters of the venture) recently and enjoyed it very much indeed. The early versions were very crumbly but this holds very well together and is full of flavour with a gentle crunch. I like a slice with a good cover of butter but you can add any spread you like. Enjoy.

And when you do come across it, ask too about their delicious Oat Tea Brack (soaked in tea and cider!). 

Gonna be A Burger of a Week. Big and Bad Boys to Rock Cork

Gonna be A Burger of a Week

Big and Bad Boys to Rock Cork

The first Cork Burger Festival runs from January 30th until February 5th. The local cafes and restaurants have climbed aboard in impressive numbers and, if you love your burger, you are going to have some tremendous choices over the week. Below you'll find a selection of what is on offer. More details on the Festival Facebook page here. 

The White Horse in Ballincollig have a Seven Day Burger Battle on, with a tasty clash each night. Friday's duel between the Texan and the Mexican looks saucy with a repeat thrown in on Saturday if you want to switch sides.

Soho Bar have joined in the fun with their Three Rebels, three different sliders and a pint of beer for a tenner.

If you’re in Son of a Bun, watch out for the Wonka ticket. Each burger special you order on this fantabulous week will be hiding a Son of a Wonka ticket. If you happen to be the lucky winner of one of their 7 golden tickets you will be in for a treat! “For the next 5 months you will get to have our burger of the month on us!”  Limit 1 burger each month per ticket holder.

New Douglas restaurant, 12 Tables, are running a Burger Battle Royale. On one plate you've got the Mick O’ and, on the other, its The Big Fella. That’ll take some sorting.

If you’re up to big, then maybe the Oliver Plunket is the place to be. Here’s the challenge. The Big Boy (he who dares, WINS) 32oz burger topped with Bandon Vale cheddar, lettuce, tomato, onions served with a side of fries; €30, finish it and it's FREE!

If you can't make it to a restaurant, Davidson’s Craft Butchers have offers on burgers all week. Keep up to date here.

You’ll find the Great Griffin in Dripsey at Griffin's Garden Centre. It looks tempting. Check out their Facebook page for giveaways.

And be sure too to tie up the horse at the Bad Boys where you can tuck into their 8oz Smoked Rodeo Burger topped with Chilli Con Carne Cheese and Sour cream. Bad!

The Meatball Place are also on board with a selection of Speciality Burgers, not just for the week, but for the month!

Nine Market Street in Kinsale are doing a four-course Burger meal (dessert is an ice-cream burger). A fab meal at a great price of €25.00 the lot. Date is Saturday the 4th from 6.00pm.

Lots more places involved including the Silly Goose (with Ali’s Kitchen). Check it all out on festival’s Facebook page here.  

Salt Wine & Food on Victoria Road. A Winning Docket!

Salt Wine & Food on Victoria Road

A Winning Docket!

On the “vee" between Monahan Road and Victoria Road, there is an undistinguished low level building, close to a tool hire operation. It once housed a bookie’s office where you could lose your money on a nag without getting a run for it. At least nowadays, you’ll get value for your hard-earned cash as the modest building (maybe it looks better by day!) is now home to Salt, a wine bar and café with quite a distinguished menu of food and drink. I certainly felt like a winner as I left after a recent visit.

Tacos

It was a cold night and we were glad of the warm welcome inside. In no time at all we were seated and going through the evening menu of tapas (they also do breakfast and lunch, and brunch at weekends). The evening's specials were pointed out to us and they all looked tempting.

And speaking of temptation, the wine list is full of it, quite a selection of new and old world bottles and bubbles too. Some excellent gins too, Bertha’s Revenge and Dingle among them, and craft beers (both local, Eight Degrees, and imported, Brewdog). We settled on a glass each of the refreshing Real Compania Verdejo Tiera De Castilla (Spain) and of the aromatic Butterfly Ridge Riesling Gewurtz (South Australia), both very enjoyable indeed.

Watch out too for their occasional music nights (Flamenco during the Jazz Fest) and Wine Tasting Events (they included Italian and New Zealand nights last autumn) and they also held a Dine in the Dark Night. So lots happening here on the Victoria Road.

Coco Catalan

We ordered three different tapas to share. Now, as in most Irish cafes and restaurants, these are the bigger tapas (known as Racions in Spain), not the small ones that you devour with a bite or two. The three dishes, all excellent, and the two glasses of wine came to a few cent over forty euro.

We found each enjoyable but my top one was the Coco Catalan: Roast butternut squash and onion, confit garlic, nuts (can vary), raisins and pecorino on a lovely flat bread. This looked great and tasted every bit as good, quite a substantial dish too, bigger than your average starter.

CL was delighted with the Crispy Fish Tacos, cod served with fresh tacos, kimchi slaw, mango salsa, guacamole. She loved the colour, the texture, the flavours. Just goes to show, we don't always agree! Though I gave the nod to the Coco Catalan, I too was very happy with my half (well, almost half) of the Tacos!

We always enjoy Spanish tarts so the Tortilla del Sol was on our order. This Spanish omelette cooked with roast potatoes, confit onions, Espelette pimentos and garlic served with avocado, was served in four large pieces, ideal for sharing as indeed were all three tapas that we had. Ideally, a group of three or four is required here and then you can taste quite a few, including specials such as the three that were on offer the other night (see pic).

Service was top notch, friendly, chatty, helpful.

Mini Burgers. Pic by Salt

Salt

Victoria Road, Cork

Phone: (021) 239 0430

email : info@saltcork.ie

website: www.saltcork.ie 

Facebook: @saltcork

Twitter @saltcork

Opening Times (seasonal)

Mon-Tue 9.00-5.00

Wed-Fri 9.00-11.00

Sat 10.00-11.00

Sun 10.00-5.00

Directions here 

Amuse Bouche

I’ll say quickly what..brought me to America but I don’t feel much in the way of saying too much. Least said soonest mended is the old saw…

My father was a butter exporter in a small way sending butter in barrels out of Sligo port into England. All good things were sent there. Cows, beeves, pigs, sheep, goats, wheat, barley, English corn, beets, carrots, cabbages, and all the rest of the paraphernalia of existence. All that was left in Ireland was the potato and when the potato was lost there was nothing left in old Ireland.

from Days Without End by Sebastian Barry (2016). Very Highly Recommended.

Ribera Del Duero. Special Land. Special Wines

Ribera Del Duero

Special Land. Special Wines

Tempranillo, in many Irish people’s minds, is the grape of Rioja. And it is. But, now, the bodegas of Ribera Del Duero, all 300 of them operating over 22,400 has of vineyards, are also laying a strong claim to the grape by making some excellent wines with it.

Wine has been produced in this beautiful region since Roman times, though it became well known outside of Spain only in the 1990s. North west of Madrid and south west of Rioja, in the Castilla y León region, the vines grow on a flowing swathe of land that’s approximately 115 kms long and 35 kms wide. 

The vast majority (including Fuentenarro, near La Horra) grow in the province of Burgos but some too in Segovia, Soria (Antidoto, for example) and Valladolid. See the map here. 

Two related factors that make Ribera different are the average altitude of 850 metres and the big variations in summer between the heat of the day and the cool of the night. The heat of the day promotes the ripening, the chill of the night preserves acidity. 

This is a land of sudden storms, dismal winds, intense frosts (often in late spring), a hot (42 degrees in summer, though it can dive to minus 29 in winter) and dry environment. 

But the best wines are often made in extreme conditions, on the edge between possible and impossible, and I think we have two very good examples below, even if neither is a Crianza or Reserva.

Fuentenarro Vendemia Seleccionada, Ribera del Duero (DO) 2011, 14%, €23.70 Le Caveau

This one hundred per cent Tempranillo is from old vines (average age 56 years) grown at 840 metres with organic principles applied. It spends 12 months in French and US oak and a further twelve in bottle (in a cellar 8 metres underground) before release.

It has a very dark ruby colour. Aromas are complex, plum and other dark fruits, chocolate notes too. You find the same dense combination on the palate, spice too; it is soft and smooth, with tannins very much in play and boasts a long and dry finish. Needs food though, venison perhaps! Highly Recommended.

Hernando y Sourdais Antidoto, Ribera del Duero (DO) 2011, 14.5%, €22.15 le Caveau

Again, organic principles are employed and other similarities with the Fuentenarro include old vines, ancient (60 year old Tinto del Pais, the local name for Tempranillo), grown between 750 and 1000 metres.

And yes, Antidoto means antidote, as winemaker Bertrand Sourdais envisages this creation as an antithesis of big heavy “international” style Ribera wines. You’ll find a much more prosaic dictionary meaning on the label. The wine has matured for 12 months in barrels, previously used to make Haut Brion.

The colour is a very dark but glossy red. Aromas are a mix of plum, blackberry and spice. On the palate, it is noticeably very smooth; the plum and blackberry combine, spice again, tannins too (not as obvious as in the Fuentenarro) and a dry persistent finalé. Smooth and elegant, a most delicious “medicine”, and Very Highly Recommended.

You'll note both wines above are 2011. It was a good year!

 JESÚS SASTRE'S GUIDE TO VINTAGES IN RIBERA DEL DUERO

• 2004. “Outrageously ripe”. Reds had low pH and very high alcohol levels, up to 16%”. 
• 2005. “Fantastic vintage, one of the best in the past 15 years with balanced alcohol levels”.
• 2006. “A good, abundant vintage, yet fine and balanced. Relatively early expression but it is coming along well”.
• 2007. “Awful. We suffered hail and then frosts in September.  Out of our top reds we only produced Pesus, which didn’t reach 14.5% of alcohol. Production was very low”.
• 2008. “A very cool vintage, grapes hardly ripened and botrytis was an issue”. No premium reds were made. Their grapes were destined to the Crianza and those usually used for the Crianza went to the entry-level Roble.
• 2009. “Acidity was a bit low, but it was a remarkable vintage”.
• 2010. “Cool, high-acidity vintage but with no botrytis at all. Very good”.
• 2011. “A really great vintage and the very best since 2005”.
• 2012. “A balanced vintage but it didn’t reach the level of the more powerful 2011. Wines were really easy to make and I find our Crianza outstanding”.
• 2013. “Very much in line with 2008, perhaps worse”.
• 2014. “Mind-blowingly good; all the grapes were fine and we had quantity as well; it could be as remarkable as 2005 and 2011”.
• 2015. “Another good, easy vintage for us, perhaps more tannic and less abundant than 2014, but the quality is high”.
• 2016. “Similar to 2015 and to 2006; the wines show good balance”.
• An extra tip: “Vintages finished in ‘7’ have a poor reputation in the area: 1967, 1977 and 1987 were very bad: 1997 was even worse; 2007 was terrible”. Could 2017 break the trend?

This guide is taken from a recent edition of The Spanish Wine Lover. Much more info on Ribera here. 

Taste of the Week. Seymours Biscuits

Taste of the Week

Seymours Biscuits

So you like coffee? Well here is the perfect partner, Chocolate and Hazelnut biscuits from Seymours.

We go the extra mile by freshly roasting the hazelnuts beforehand, using Belgian chocolate chips, stone ground local oatmeal, fresh eggs and butter and a nice splash of bourbon vanilla to finish! Each biscuit is seriously wholesome and the flavours come to the fore when eaten with coffee for those well deserved relaxation moments.

Seymours Irish Biscuits is a family owned specialist bakery producing individually hand-cut biscuit products. Their bakery, in Bandon town,  is about 8km west of their dairy farm from where the fresh milk goes in to making the creamery butter for the biscuits, "imparting a genuine taste difference no other biscuit bakery can match".

That Chocolate and Hazelnut is our Taste of the Week. It is exquisite. But there are quite a few more where that comes from. You can taste the butter in the shortbread and, if you want something really special, try Social Circles. I got mine in Bradley's, Cork, but these treats are available in Ireland, Europe and the US. All the details here. 

Seymours Fine Foods Ltd, 

2 Cloughmacsimon Business Park, Bandon, Co. Cork.

Contact Philip O'Connor 

Land line: +353 21 733 1129

Mobile:       +353 86 330 9378

 

e-mail:  info@seymours.ie

Superb Red and White Double from de Brau

Superb Red and White Double

 from de Brau

The Taris, Gabriel and Wenny, of Chateau de Brau, are too close to the Languedoc ground to get carried way with the romantic cliches that winemakers (and their sellers) use willy nilly. 

They farm in the area of Carcassonne, a town known to Irish holiday makers and rugby followers. It is not sunshine all the way: "Not all vintages are exceptional. There are the weather conditions. And the weeds that we will never overcome. And the little beasts and larger animals who demand their share."

That they share with the little and larger of the local animal world gives you the clue that the work here is more in cooperation with nature than against it. The effort made in the vineyard to obtain healthy and well balanced grapes is thus optimised in the cellar for the vinification and maturing of genuine wines. And it is that effort, and no little skill, that has produced these two beauties. And more.

Domaine de Brau PURE Pinot Noir, Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2015, 14%, €16.60 Mary Pawle Wines

This organic wine is part of the winery’s PURE range, started in 2006. Other single varietals include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah along with Viognier, Egiodola, Petit Verdot, and Fer Servadou. Some unusual grapes there!

It has a lovely ruby colour, a degree darker than usual. Aromas are more raspberry than strawberry, herbal hints too. More like cherry on the palate, a full and generous mouthfeel, tannins still in play as this approachable wine, more supple than some Pinot Noirs, moves to a long finalé.  The Languedoc may not be the usual place for Pinot Noir but this is a winner all the way and Very Highly Recommended.

By the way, love the brevity of the winery's summation: griottes, ample, et généreux. 

Domaine de Brau Chardonnay, Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2011, 13.5%, €16.50 Mary Pawle Wines

This lightly oaked 100% Chardonnay organic wine has a lovely bright gold colour. The aromas are of white fruit, honey and spice notes too. It is rich and round, with an almost creamy mouthfeel; there are fresh tropical fruit flavours in a beautiful elegant wine with a long dry finish. Surprisingly very good indeed and Very Highly Recommended. 

Brook Inn’s Abuzz

Brook Inn’s Abuzz

Salmon starter

Sallybrook’s Brook Inn is busy and buzzy at 6.00pm on a Friday evening. The fact that it’s just after Christmas and the day before New Year’s Eve may have something to do with it and we see quite a few families enjoying the food, and the festive lights, both inside and outside. The place is close to full so just as well that we had booked in advance.

Soon, we are seated comfortably at our table and studying the menus, they have an early Bird as well as the A La Carte. The Early Bird looks like good value but, on this occasion, we go with the A La Carte. 

Hake

We soon have an opportunity to order our drinks. They have some Irish craft beers here and also some Irish gins. I haven't tried the Gunpowder before so I order that and indeed enjoy the gin as the evening goes on.

From a good choice of starters - you may see the menus online here - I pick the Slow Cooked Crispy Pork Belly with Toffee Apple puree, Black pudding, Hazelnut, star anise. 

Duck (and beetroot!)

Mine is well cooked and presented and goes down well and the same could be said about CL’s Citrus Cured Salmon with Pickled Cucumber, Rock Samphire, Pink Grapefruit, Saffron Aioli. Both starters are of a very good standard indeed.

And that standard is maintained as the mains arrive. I'm very impressed indeed with the Crisp Barberry Duck breast with Confit Potato, Beetroot Textures, Spinach, Roast Jus served with a Salad of Pomegranate, Pickles, Pink Grapefruit, Mango, Organic Leaves and Feta Cheese. The spelling may not have been great (it’s Barbary lads!) but it was a terrific mix of flavours, textures and colours!

And the report from the other side of the table is also glowing as CL tucks in to the Pan roasted fillet of Hake with Celeriac Puree, Potato Terrine, Mussels, Samphire, Baby Spinach, Chive Oil, Grilled Prawn, Shellfish Cream, slow roast Tomato. Again well cooked and well presented.

And well served too. We met three or four different servers during the busy evening. All were helpful and efficient and even had time for a chat as the early wave of diners began to make way for the second wave. Very enjoyable experience in a very comfortable venue.

Brook Inn

Sallybrook, Glanmire, Co. Cork

Tel: (021) 482 1498

Web: http://www.thebrookinn.ie/

Facebook: @brook.inn.58

Twitter: @thebrookinn

Hours -

Mon-Thu: 10:30AM - 11:30AM

Fri-Sun: 10:30AM - 12:30AM