All Happening at the River Lee. Afternoon Tea, Harvest Carriage, Jazz Fest

All Happening at the River Lee

Afternoon Tea, Harvest Carriage, Jazz Fest

Petite pieces of finesse and elegance, crowned by this quartet of sweet sensations.
Congrats to the team here as their Afternoon Tea has been awarded best in Munster.

Always a buzz around the River Club in the River Lee. Even more so at present as the riverside hotel steps up another gear - no standing still around here. Latest highlights include a splendid Afternoon Tea and the Harvest Carriage. 

And, for the October Bank Holiday, between the Club and the River Room, there’s a score and more jazz slots, all free, a whole lot of fun from 5.00pm on Friday until 7.00pm on Monday. The excellent New York Brass Band will be here everyday. They are superbly entertaining and watch out too for the Art Crimes Band. But there is something for everyone. Check it all out here 

We were in for the Afternoon Tea last Friday but we also had a look at the Harvest Carriage. The what? Did you know that a three-foot narrow gauge train-line ran from Cork City to Blarney from the late 19th century until it finally ceased service in 1934.

The Harvest Carriage

The Cork and Muskerry Light Railway brought pleasure-seeking tourists from the city to the countryside and ran right through where the River Club now stands. This was the very site of the old Western Road station – in fact you can still see the remnants of the train tracks just under the terrace of the adjoining Grill Room restaurant and two stumps of supporting columns stand in the river outside!

These days, the riverside terrace has been decorated to evoke the good old days of train travel, not so much on the Cork and Muskerry, more like the luxury continental lines. The River Club, in partnership with Fever-Tree mixers, is offering a selection of cocktails to while away the “journey”.

And we started with one! Since we had been assigned to drive the express, the drink had to be non alcoholic. And our host, Pierce Lowney, General Manager, had just the ticket. A seasonal one, based on the refreshing and spiced Seed-Lip, with ginger beer and their own apple and pear cordial. Now, after that delicious Amuse Bouche, blow that whistle and check out the dining carriage for that superb tea.

River Club Bar

The menu follows the traditional three parts: savoury, scones and sweet, all tempting. Four finger sandwiches were Curry Spiced Coronation Chicken, Cucumber and Chive Glenilen Cream Cheese, Focaccia with sun-dried tomato and basil hummus and my favourite Dressed Ballycotton Crab on homemade Guinness brown bread.

The influence of Modern Botany was seen in the very tempting Bramley Apple and Flax Financier in the scone plate and in the sweets as well. There was Camomile and Honey Carrageen Moss pudding, Orange and Polenta Cake with calendula mousseline cream, Earl Grey Chocolate Choux Bun and a joint favourite Pineapple and Coriander Green Tea Tartlet.

We choose the House Tea here, Barry’s Gold Blend, to start with and when that pot was finished I switched to one of the Ronnefeldt Loose Leaf Teas, the delicious balanced Early Grey. And they had more to offer including an Irish Whiskey Cream tea! Coffees too of course.

Speaking of balance, I think that this was one of the best balanced Afternoon Tea menus I’ve enjoyed, not too heavy at all, even that green tea tartlet in the desserts is quite light. So, feeling nicely fed than overly so, off we headed on a leisurely walk downtown. No train going that way now.

Plants and flowers, both wild and cultivated, are at the heart of Modern Botany’s approach to skincare, using the best natural botanical ingredients to promote skin health, including flax, calendula, borage and chamomile. 

These same plants and herbs all feature in this Modern Botany Afternoon Tea at The River Lee. The company is based in Schull and draws on the botanical richness of the Wild Atlantic Way to create their products. And, if you are an Afternoon Tea customer, you’ll get a gift of a Modern Botany travel size gift.  

The River Lee Hotel  

Western Road

Cork

Richy's "No Menu" Night. Huge Success

Richy's "No Menu" Night. Huge Success

Richy Virahsawmy is a happy man this weekend. "The first no menu night was a huge

success, full house !! Thank you all. The next one is on 14/11/2019. Bookings open now!!"

Now wonder it went down well  in the Clonakilty restaurant - just look at these pictures of

 the wonderful dishes created by Richy's Head Chef Meeran Gani Manzoor. You can see

 that this talented guy has learned well from his time spent working in

 Michelin starred restaurants.

House cured salmon with Turmeric, lemongrass & gin, lime fraiche, apple & cucumber gel, wasabi pearls, lemon oil, fermented rice crisps! 

Pumpkin and pink peppercorn brûlée, goats curd, sage and pistachio

Scallops, cauliflower poriyal, tamarind & palm sugar glaze.

Duck, celeriac, red cabbage, carrot and hazelnut 

Chocolate & coffee

Amuse Bouche

Good boy. Now, come on. We have eggs. Let me cook you an omelette.

She pulled a soggy box out of the press, opened it and at once turned up her nose.

Maybe we’ll skip the eggs, she said, and took a good look around the kitchen as though she was convinced a second press, one with proper eggs and other food, was hiding from her. Her scan complete, she shook her head sadly, threw up her arms and yelled, What a dump! As fast again, she jerked her head towards the stereo, her face lighting up at what was coming out of it.

And off she went. De-de doo-duh. De-de doo-duh. Clicking her fingers.

from Ithaca by Alan McMonagle (2017). Very Highly Recommended.

White Gypsy's Tempting Threesome. Limited Edition Brews

White Gypsy's Tempting Threesome

Limited Edition Brews

Smoked Wheat, 5.2%, 500 ml bottle

A traditional Bamburg style beer made from malt that has been dried over fires from beechwood logs. Weyermann Dark Wheat and Pale Pilsner Malts, Saphir hops and Weihenstephan yeast have all been harnessed here.

A delicious mix of fruit, clove too, plus just a hint of smoke from the drying process. Should be good with food, particularly with those from the BBQ. Next time, I may well try it with smoked salmon or trout.

Farmhouse Ale, 5.5%, 500ml bottle

This is Gypsy’s take on a traditional Wallonia style beer brewed by the local farmer to provide his workers with refreshment during the hard work of the summer. Ingredients include Irish Heritage Hunter Barley, Irish Wheat Malt, Mandarina Bavaria Wet Hops and Saison Yeast.

I’d be very happy to working with any farmer that can come up with an ale of this quality. A perfect balance, positively refreshing, and just the job after a hard days work. A superb saison. Wonder if I could sneak one at lunchtime!

Some similarities between Wheat and Ale, including mouthfeel and hints of clove.

Bock Lager, 6.5%, 500 ml bottle

A traditional Munich style beer brewed by Bavarian monks during Lent to provide them with their nutritional needs. White Gypsy say it’s the best excuse they ever heard for drinking beer. Ingredients listed are Weyermann Barke & Munich Malts, Hallertau Traditional Hops and Munich Yeast.

Dark-ish and power packed at 6.5 abv, this lager was originally brewed by those crafty Bavarian monks for nutritional purposes! In fairness, you could say there’s eating and drinking in it. Superb flavours round down the potential alcohol spike; still though, this is one to sip and enjoy rather than glug and regret!

These three superb beers are all produced by White Gypsy in Tipperary. I got mine, for eleven euro, in Bradley's, North Main Street, Cork. White Gypsy beers are widely available and you can check their other stockists here.

Oh What A Wonderful Morgon At La Bonne Tonne

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne

The "Androgynous" Wines of Beaujolais.

Robert Joseph, whose French Wine was a bible for many of us, wrote in the 1999 edition: “There is something deliciously androgynous about Beaujolais that somehow sets it between red and white, with the colour of the former and the easy drinkability of the latter. The region’s unique ménage à trois of the Gamay grape (a variety that never performs as well elsewhere), granite soil, and the macération carbonique process,…. combines to produce wines with vibrant fruit and almost no perceptible tannin.”

Think he’d have been well pleased with Domaine de la Bonne Tonne, who farm a small area of Beaujolais. The Grillet family have been winemakers for 7 generations in Morgon and their vines are of an average age of 65 years. 1.10 ha is grown in Beaujolais appellation including 50 ares in Gamay and 60 ares in Chardonnay. The wines of the area possess a lot of finesse and a wonderfully expressive fruit.

Here is how the Grillets sum it up: “This is the challenge we have embarked on. To come to live off our profession by producing a small quantity of grapes for a great quality of wine and to make finally express itself this soil so rich which does not require less. The 'black gamay with white juice', the only grape variety authorized for red wines in Beaujolais, can thus translate all its complexity of aromas.”

Did you know that the Gamay grape is an exile? In 1395, it was outlawed by Royal decree as being “a very bad and disloyal plant”. Sixty years later another edict was issued against it. And so it was pushed out of Burgundy and south into neighbouring Beaujolais where it has thrived on the granite based soils. Wonder what those royals, Philippe the Bold and Philippe the Good, would make of these beautiful authentic wines from Bonne Tonne.

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC)  “Grands-Cras” 2017, 14%, €25.75 Mary Pawle  

Colour is mid-ruby with the tears reluctant to disappear. Inviting aromas of freshly crushed strawberry and blackberry, floral notes also. All lead to an expected big kiss of concentrated sensation on the palate. A perfectly harmonious experience though, thanks to the acidity and those silky tannins. Loveable all the way to a very satisfactory finish indeed. Very Highly Recommended.

Wine Enthusiast gave this 93 points saying: “The Grillet family's organically grown wine shows delicious, pure flavors of jammy blackberries cut with acidity. It comes from old vines in one of Morgon's cru vineyards, giving both concentration and a mineral structure.”  

Grands Cras is one of the three climats in which the the Grillet family operate in Morgon, the others being Cote de Py and Charmes. Les Grands Cras is at the foothills of Cote de Py.  Charmes is a granite area in the west part of the cru Morgon.

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC) “Les Charmes” 2017, 14%, €27.00

Again mid-ruby is the colour. Rich jammy aromas of dark berries. And again we get those pure and delicious flavours of the fruit, plus the usual fresh acidity, smooth and velvety all the way to the excellent finish, a harmonious trip from initial attack to the finalé. 

Made from 100% Gamay grapes from vines with an average age of 65 years, it is vinified naturally with natural yeast and no added sulphur in the wine making. This wine, like all the Bonne Tonne bottles, is made with authenticity and aplomb, and little else. No herbicides, no pesticides here. No filtration and a minimal dose of SO2 is added to the bottling to avoid any degradation of the wine during transport.

Domaine de la Bonne Tonne Morgon (AOC) “Cote du Py” 2015, 14%, €28.75 Mary Pawle  

Colour: Mid ruby, tears slow to go. Intense and rich and inviting dark berry aromas, fresh and complex. And that all follows through to the immediately loveable palate, rich and rounded, seamless harmony all the way through to a long intense finish. Very Highly Recommended.

The Morgon "Côte du Py", is the most famous climate of the vineyard. There are ten crus in the Beaujolais region and Morgon, as you probably know, is one of them. With the typical acidity, these wines can match a range of foods. One suggestion that I fancy is Moroccan Lamb Tagine with apricot.

World famous for its exceptional soil resulting from ancient volcanic activity, the soil of the Py hill is composed of decomposing volcanic elements, with the presence of iron oxide and manganese. The blue rock is friable, and so the locals have been known to claim that the best Morgon are made on this land of  terre pourrie (rotten rock)! 

And more good news from Mary Pawle...

Mary Pawle will soon have this gem (due by end of the month); she already has the Energies on her list. I'll be ordering! The review above is from November's Decanter.

GOLDIE AIMS TO MAKE A SPLASH IN CORK'S CULINARY SCENE

GOLDIE AIMS TO MAKE A SPLASH IN CORK'S CULINARY SCENE

- Cork city’s burgeoning culinary reputation has been boosted with the opening of a new restaurant on the bustling Oliver Plunkett Street -

Goldie is a small restaurant aiming to have a big impact on Cork's dining scene, serving the freshest and most exciting fish dishes in the city. It is the result of an exciting collaboration between Aishling Moore (25), former head chef of Elbow Lane, and Stephen Kehoe, (39) executive chef of the Market Lane Group (pictured right). 

Goldie sources its fish from the day boats that operate out of Ballycotton in East Cork and the English Market. The restaurant takes the ‘whole catch’ from these boats (so they take whatever is caught on the day, regardless
of the quantity and species) ensuring a daily changing menu featuring the freshest produce available.

The name of the restaurant is a nod to the much loved ‘Goldie’ fish-shaped weathervane that sits on top of the famous Shandon Bells at the ancient St Anne’s church in Shandon, just north of the city centre.   The weathervane symbolises the historical importance of fishing to Cork.

Moore and Kehoe show excellent form.  Under their stewardship, Elbow Lane regularly appears in the top 100 list of the best eateries in Ireland and they were arguably at the vanguard of open fire cooking in Ireland.  With Goldie, the pair have spread their wings and created a mostly fish menu that will delight and surprise.  Dishes include the likes of ‘Pan-fried Ray with fennel and langoustine butter sauce’ and ‘Salt fish brandade with dillisk cracker and Churchfield tomatoes’.

The interior of the restaurant is contemporary chic and the atmosphere is intimate and relaxed.  The duo has kept price points extremely accessible; snacks start from €2, small plates from €7.50 and large plates from €18

As well as taking the whole catch, Goldie operates a ‘gill to tail approach’, using as much of the fish as possible.  Some of the most notable dishes are fish spines served with house togarashi, made with hops from Elbow Lane’s brewery and Pollock collar Teryaki.  The ultimate aim is to utilise as much of the fish as possible, with an emphasis on serving parts that are usually discarded.

Elbow Lane’s beers feature on the drink’s menu alongside a small, but carefully chosen wine list. Says Moore "While it has been extremely hard work opening my own restaurant, it has also been so enjoyable and is absolutely a career highlight for me.  To be doing so with Stephen as a business partner, who has been such a huge influence on my cooking, is a dream come true”

 Opening times are Wednesday – Sunday from 5 pm until late.  For further information please visit www.goldie.ie.

Press release

Taste of the Week. Grace O’Malley Blended Irish Whiskey

Grace O’Malley Blended Irish Whiskey

Pirate queen Grace O’Malley has had a recent Irish whiskey named after her, quite a few in fact, all finished by a company set up by Stephen Cope (deeply proud of his West of Ireland heritage) and his partners Stefan Hansen and Hendrick Melle.

They have tied down a large supply of stock from the John Teeling-owned Great Northern Distillery and Paul Caris, cellar master and blender at French company Alteroak, has been recruited to oversee maturation and finishing of the spirits.

“We’re not a distiller and we are not trying to be. That isn’t what we are about. Our whiskey comes from Great Northern and we’re very proud of that as we see them as specialist at what they do,” said Mr Cope, quoted in the Irish Times. The company, Inis Tine Uisce, are head-quartered, appropriately enough, in Westport, where they reportedly intend to open a maturation warehouse in a year or two.

Their whiskey is being sold in three different ranges, beginning with the introductory Grace O'Malley Crew. Move up then to the Navigator Range and next to the Captain’s Range (their finest bottles).

I recently tasted a sample (provided) of their 3-year old Blended Irish Whiskey. The blend, a special blend, combines multiple batches of whiskey of varying age statements from three to ten years old, including, unusually for Ireland, a high content of double-distilled malt.  Each batch of whiskey is aged in different barrel types including French Oak, American Oak, Bourbon and Rum Casks.  These casks are hand selected and matched to each whiskey’s characteristics for maturing and finishing. 

So what’s it like? Colour in the glass is not quite as dark as it appears in the squat bottle. Nose is quite intense, quite spicy. On the palate it is light and fruity, spicy too (not as prominent as you might expect from the aromas). Nice harmony between all the various elements (and there are a lot of them), all the way towards a very pleasant finish indeed, smooth and fruity with a slight sweetness.

A World Of Wine Coming To Cork Next Month. O'Briens Wine Festival

A World Of Wine Coming To Cork Next Month.

O'Briens Wine Festival 

The Lingenfelder brothers from Germany

They’re coming from many corners of the world, from California, Chile, Argentina, from South Africa, from New Zealand and Australia, all coming to Cork on Thursday November 7th. People will be there too from the Old World, all heading to the O’Briens Wine Festival at the Clayton Hotel in Lapps Quay, Cork. And watch out too for Kate and Denis from the local Kinsale Mead Company - they’ll certainly have something for those on your Christmas present list (including yourself!).

Wine Masterclasses are an additional feature this year. There will be three of them on the night, including one by Jose Maria Fraile of Tandem. This winery in Spain’s Navarra is one of my favourites. 

I see also that the Lingenfelder brothers, the double act of Georg and Karl, will be in attendance. Not too sure whether both will be doing the masterclass or just one but one way or the other you’ll have a laugh along with some very interesting wines to taste. 

The third masterclass will be given by Maison Schröder & Schÿler (they’ll have three reps at the festival) and they have some terrific Bordeaux wines under their wing, including Châteaux Kirwan (classified Grand Cru Classé in 1855); should be interesting!

Kangarilla's Charlie O'Brien (centre) pictured a few years back with his parents Helen and Kevin.

The Delicato Vineyards are one of the leading family producers in the US and produce under a variety of labels including Gnarly Head that you will see in Ireland. They’ll have Jonas Hillergen in attendance.

What’s going on in Chile these days? Check it out with Javier Letamendi from Viña Leyda (DO Leyda Valley). You won’t have to trek over the Andes to check out the wine scene in Argentina as Bodegas Norton from Mendoza will also be in Cork.

We recently highly recommended the Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch (South Africa) 2018, relatively new to O’Briens, and this excellent South African producer will have Louw Strydom on hand to tell you all about it and their other wines.

A beauty!

Looking forward to meeting Charlie O’Brien of Kangarilla Road in Australia’s McLaren. Hope he’s got some of the Devil’s Whiskers with him! New Zealand wines are always welcome here as are the country’s producers. Sacred Hill’s man at the Clayton will be Ben Stuart.

There’ll be bubbles of course, perhaps to begin the evening. Check the champagne by Champagne Beaumont des Crayères. Gilles Francois will have it at the perfect temperature.

And would you like to finish with a drop of Port? Ah, go on! The person to see is Lorna Rouse of Taylor's & Fonseca.

Tickets are selling fast for this outstanding event (199 wines, 45 winemakers). Check at your local O’Brien’s or order online here. Cheers, Cork!

It’s Blasket Lamb Time at Market Lane Group.

It’s Blasket Lamb Time at Market Lane Group.

Uan Blasta at ORSO, Castle Cafe and Elbow Lane

Lamb Shank

It’s that time of year again. The Market Lane’s precious quota of delicious Blasket Lamb has arrived in Cork and the chefs at ORSO, Elbow Lane, Castle Café and the parent restaurant itself are trying to outdo each other with tasty expressions. Every bit of the lamb will be used and there’ll be quite a variety of offerings to choose from.

Diners can look forward to dishes such as ‘Spicy Lamb Sausage, grated tomato, red onion, parsley pine nuts, mint, and sumac served with flatbread, ‘Slow Roasted Lamb Neck Shawarma with tahini, green peppercorn and pickled squash, ‘Braised lamb breast with black garlic mash, wild mushroom and Tawny cider jus’, and ‘Loin of lamb with pancetta and potato terrine, aubergine puree, winter vegetables and a lamb jus’.

When I got the call to try out the dishes at Elbow Lane, there was no hesitation. We got in early on Friday evening last and enjoyed two fabulous courses from their famous grill and some of their own superb beers as well.

Lamb Cutlet

Not too many restaurants use kidneys nowadays, maybe the customers are reluctant. But we had no hesitation when our fantastic server detailed this starter dish for us: Blasket Lamb Kidneys, with Quince, Rhubarb and Kombucha glaze and sautéed Chard.

Kidneys with Chard

Quite a hat trick on the plate. The glaze was unreal, the green Chard provided an extra texture (and flavour of course) and the interaction with the kidneys rounded the potentially robust and rustic dish into a very sophisticated mouthful indeed. Quite a few mouthfuls actually!

The sauce in the next dish, a preserved lemon and marjoram beurre blanc, was another standout. You could have either Lamb Leg (no bone) or Lamb Chops. Both had the same sauce and also a crunchily delicious caper roast cauliflower. 

So one of us  had the Chops, the other the Leg, and there was a bit of swapping going on. If it had been a contest, I think I’d have given the chops, with their amazing fat enhanced flavour (or was it the Angel Lane stout factor), the edge. Must admit I know little about the grill here but it sure delivers fantastic flavours.

Elbow Lane Smokehouse and Brewery, as you may know, is not the biggest, but the crew here make the very best of it, whether it’s the chef is his very confined quarter or the front of house people explaining the various dishes, helped diners make their own choices, in the narrow dimly-lit space,  and it all runs very smoothly indeed. Quite an enjoyable customer experience and highly recommended, especially for couples and foursomes.

Just a bit of background on the Blasket Lamb….

The habitat on the islands is what makes this product so special. The animals mostly graze on the small island of Beginish, a natural bird sanctuary, which makes the soil incredibly fertile.  There, the animals graze at leisure in a marshy meadow full of heather, grasslands and wild herbs.  They have even been known to nibble on the seaweed which washes up on the natural beaches that provide access to the island.  The grass is salty from sea spray and this gives the lamb its highly valued flavour.

Donnacha (farmer) and Jerry (butcher) inspect the sheep as they arrive on the mainland.

As the animals are free to roam uninterrupted, there is no forced ‘fattening’.  This means that the lamb is leaner, ‘creating a near-perfect fat to meat ratio’ says award-winning Dingle Butcher, Jerry Kennedy.  “Fortunately, there is no liver fluke on the islands, so the lamb is not treated for anything other than worms.” 

Conrad Howard, head of the Market Lane Group, who has been supporting Blasket Island lamb for many years now says “We are delighted as a group to highlight this very special produce.  The impeccable provenance of this lamb is reflected in its superb quality and flavour. We are also very proud to be the only restaurants to serve it to our customers. Our chefs begin creating their dishes in August in the anticipation and hope that the lamb will arrive.”

Amuse Bouche

It was essentially a debriefing on the killing and there were high fives all around. It didn’t matter to Thompson and his associates that a young girl had heard the shots being fired and ran out to find her father lying in a pool of blood. The fact that Thompson brought his associates out just a few hours after a man’s life had been taken shows just how callous he really was. They enjoyed a good meal, drinks and posed for photographs. It was simply a party to celebrate a murder.

from Fat Freddie by Stephen Breen (2019). Very Highly Recommended (but not for the faint-hearted)

Catherine Fulvio joins judges at 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards

media release

A Question of Taste:

Catherine Fulvio among team of expert judges as the 2019 CÁIS Irish Cheese Awards welcome over 200 entries from 50 Irish farmhouse cheese producers

The biennial Irish Cheese Awards has once again become the talk of the town among the Irish food lovers’ community. With less than one month to go until the prestigious ceremony, it was finally time for the group of expert judges to come together this week (Wednesday 9^th October) to select a worthy list of winners and decide upon the best in class for 2019.

Now in its eighth year, the Irish Cheese Awards is organised by CÁIS (Association of Irish Farmhouse Cheesemakers) in association with sponsors Ornua, Pallas Foods and Bord Bia, the latter of whom has supported the initiative since its inception. It is the only competition dedicated entirely to Irish cheese. The event highlights the talents present in this country in the field of cheesemaking, with entries open to both artisan and large-scale cheese producers within the 32 counties on the island of Ireland. The comprehensive judging process took place at Bord Bia’s Dublin headquarters, where famed TV chef Catherine Fulvio was joined by 13 of her fellow judges, including Ross Lewis, Head Chef and co-owner of Chapter One restaurant in Dublin; John McKenna, Editor of McKennas’ Guides; Aoife Carrigy, food, wine and travel writer; Enda Howley of Ornua; and Russell James Alford and Patrick Hanlon of GastroGays.

Following this all-important judging phase, 18 Irish cheeses have now been selected as Gold winners in their relevant categories, with the results to be announced and winners commended during the Irish Cheese Awards ceremony and gala dinner, which will take place on Thursday 7^th November at The Metropole Hotel in Cork.    

The exclusive event will be attended by judges, competing cheesemakers and members of the public eager to be the first to catch a glimpse of this year’s award winners, while enjoying a gourmet 5-course dining experience in the process. The bespoke menu will showcase a selection of 2017’s winning cheeses, with a range of dishes carefully curated by The Metropole’s Head Chef Stuart Dardis, who has garnered rave reviews from avid food lovers since taking over at the helm of the famous Cork hotel. MC for the evening will be journalist and broadcaster Helen Carroll from RTÉ’s Ear to the Ground.

For the first time in almost 10 years, CÁIS has appealed to the general public to share their valued views, inviting cheese lovers to cast their vote for their favourite Irish farmhouse cheese. Nominations will be accepted until Monday 21^st October and members of the public can cast their vote by visiting www.irishcheese.ie/publicvote. The winner of this exciting new category will be presented with their award during the black-tie event next month. A further two new categories have also been brought to the table for 2019, namely ‘Best New Cheesemaker’ (entrants must have entered the market since 2016) and ‘Best Raw Milk Cheese’.

With 20 categories overall, including this year’s addition of the public vote, judges were put through their paces as they endeavored to select the best on the block. Each cheese entered was judged and assessed under three key criteria: flavour and aroma, body and texture and overall appearance of cheese, while packaging and branding was also taken into consideration within the ‘Retailer’ and ‘New Cheesemaker’ categories. While undoubtedly an enjoyable job, the judging process was also a thorough, in-depth exercise, with each judge working hard to ensure the efforts of the country’s finest cheesemakers were accurately highlighted and commended.

Speaking as the competition officially got underway on Wednesday, expert cheese grader and judge Enda Howley of event sponsor Ornua, said: “At Ornua, we work collaboratively with Ireland’s cheesemakers to select and grade the finest cheddar to export all around the world. Ireland’s reputation as a quality food producer is greatly enhanced by our cheddar-making expertise coupled with the quality milk from grass-fed cows, our farmers’ produce. I am honoured to join the esteemed judges for this year’s Irish Cheese Awards, which demonstrates the incredible talent among our cheesemakers in Ireland.”

Also commenting as the 2019 judging process came to an end, chef and judge Ross Lewis said: “Ireland is currently experiencing a wonderful food movement and Farmhouse Cheeses have a strong position within this movement. The Irish Cheese Awards are not only celebrating these cheeses but showcasing the high standard of the Irish cheese sector, especially artisan cheese but also larger cheese companies. I am delighted to be part of the judging panel for the 2019 awards and it was a tough task to choose the best, as most of the cheeses we tasted today deserve recognition. At Chapter One, we have championed Irish produce since the beginning and are delighted to see how Irish food is now recognised beyond our shores.”

Originally formed in 1983, CÁIS has spent more than three decades educating its members in everything from the art of cheesemaking to business development and hygiene. Their promotion of cheese competitions has been a key factor in pushing Irish producers to showcase their work and as a result, increase brand awareness and knowledge and appreciation of local, artisan produce both nationally and internationally. Similarly, the Irish Cheese Awards recognises and highlights the talents present in this country in the field of cheesemaking, offering a prestigious platform to homegrown brands and promoting them among Irish consumers, encouraging shoppers to choose locally made produce.

Tickets for the 2019 Irish Cheese Awards cost €69 per person and can be purchased on Eventbrite or through the website, www.irishcheese.ie/irish-cheese-awards. For more information on CÁIS and the Irish Cheese Awards 2019, visit www.irishcheese.ie. For social media updates, follow CAISIreland on Facebook and @caisireland on Twitter or follow the conversation using #IrishCheeseAwards

Taste of the Week. Longueville House Irish Apple Brandy

Taste of the Week

Longueville House Irish Apple Brandy

The Longueville House Irish Apple Brandy, our Taste of the Week, is quite a while in the making. In Autumn, the apples, all from their own estate, are crushed and pressed within hours of harvesting. Four months of fermentation produces a cider and that is double distilled on site in copper pot stills. A four year maturation follows in French oak. Then it is bottled and sold.

No need for a mixer. “No mixer needed,” says Rupert Atkinson of Longueville Beverages.“It is very smooth, no burning and good for digestion, best after a good meal. If it feels a little cool, just warm it in the palm of the hand.” 

I can agree with all of that as I paid a lot of attention to my most recent encounter with this marvellous spirit. Certainly there is a hint of orchard in both aroma and flavour but there is more too, some spice included, all before a lingering and pleasing finish. No rush here, just sit back and savour each little sip!

There are 25 acres of apples and the orchard is close to 25 years old. No pesticides are used. One way they counter the aphids, a tiny bug that can do enormous damage, is to encourage the hoverfly by planting the likes of Fennel, Angelica and Yarrow. These attract the hoverfly, a natural enemy of the aphid.

The brandy comes from apples grown in the orchards of Longueville. The apples used are cider apples namely, Michelin (Normandy) and Dabinett (Somerset), grown in their orchards in the beautiful Blackwater Valley.

Harvest time at Longueville 

Hospitality Alive and Well at The Wicklow Heather

Hospitality Alive and Well

 at The Wicklow Heather

At first glance, the inside of the Wicklow Heather, looks like something from a previous century: paintings in gilded frames, old posters for food and drink on the walls, even on the rafters along with copper pots and black bastibles. But then you meet the modern multi-national crew and you realise this place is full of chatty people all determined in the politest friendliest way to make sure you have a memorable meal in this roadside pub in Laragh in the beautiful heart of the county.

Babaganoush starter

And that was exactly what happened during our evening meal. Irish produce well cooked in a variety of styles - everything from Irish stew to Babaganoush - and served with a smile. Quality and yes, quantity too, on the plate. And since there is a full bar here, they have all kinds of drinks. I usually look for the local and enjoyed Glendalough Whiskey (a tasting trio) and an IPA from Wicklow Wolf.

And at the end there was a surprise. “Would you like a drink? On the house.” Yes of course, and we gladly accepted the Bailey’s. Cheers to the Heather and all that sail in her.

We were back for breakfast - they have B&B rooms about 100 metres away. And here that generosity was present again, firstly in a glass, a large glass, of freshly squeezed orange juice. Then a gentleman who had just finished his breakfast met two friends as he was about to exit. So he told the waitress he’d sit and talk with the friends for a while and she made sure he had a cup of tea or coffee while he chatted.

Seafood Salad: a massive plate of warmed grilled fish, smoked salmon Gravlax with avocado and King Prawn with Marie Rose sauce and more!

After breakfast, we had a chance to take a look at the three adjoining dining rooms here (not possible the evening before as the place was packed). The biggest is the amazing Irish Writer’s Room with books and memorabilia displayed on the walls including a first edition first issue of Gulliver’s Travels (the oldest book here, printed in 1726)! Plenty more from the likes of Joyce, Yeats, Keane, Heaney and more! Indeed they also have a first edition, first issue of Ulysses by James Joyce. And if you’d like a drink while you take in the books, then their famous Irish Whiskey Bar is in the corner of this room.

Local venison (above) and beef feature on the menu.

The Heather’s B&B units are excellent. You have your own “house” in a small terrace. Basically, ours was one rather large room, neatly divided into a sitting area with sofa and TV; a corner with sink, fridge, kettle and espresso machine; and two sleeping section (one double, one single). And, we also had a spacious bathroom with toilet, sink, plus separate bath and shower. Very comfortable all round. Everything well maintained and in good working order (lights, heating, TV, Wifi). If you’re heading to Wicklow then the Wicklow Heather is Very Highly Recommended. We paid ninety euro for the B&B on October 1st.

Custard tart

This, our second day in Wicklow, saw the heavy rain still around as we left Powerscourt Hotel. But rain or no rain, we were determined to see the Powerscourt Waterfall (video below). Paid the entry fee and reached the car park. That is a few hundred yards away from the falls, so we walked in. It was absolutely spectacular - no doubt the flow was enhanced by the recent rains - and well worth the walk and the soaking. Luckily, I was able to use the toilet block to change my pants.

Sitting area in the B&B

On these kind of trips, you should always put some place on your list as a rainy day option and we had earmarked Sea Life on the promenade in Bray. The wind was wild - whipping the waves that crashed onto the shore - as we walked the few hundred yards from the car park, lucky that the rain was taking a break. 

It is not the biggest aquarium you’ll come across but has much of interest. No guide as such but there is a friendly pro-active person going around who’ll give you all the information you need and will also round up visitors at feeding times. They have all kinds of fish here from the tiny guppy to rays and sharks. You’ll also see a softback turtle.

The rain was back when we returned to the car but this time the Wicklow Heather and its warm welcome was just about 30 minutes away and after that the day just got better and better. The sun was even shining as we checked out the following morning and we had fine views as we drove through the Wicklow Gap heading for the motorway back to the south.

The sheep lane on the Wicklow Gap

Also on this trip:

Powerscourt Hotel

Powerscourt Distillery visit