From gill-to-fin, Aishling Moore has the Whole Catch covered in her new book

Red Gurnard and, below, on the plate at Goldie.

 

#10 WHOLE CATCH

Aishling Moore

Blasta Books

Published 25^th April, £13/€15

#10: WHOLE CATCH introduces you to pioneering young chef Aishling Moore, one of Ireland’s biggest advocates for regenerative aquaculture and a promoter of the gill-to-fin approach.

 

At 24 years old, Aishling opened Goldie, a seafood bistro in Cork. In just two years, Aishling gained the restaurant a Michelin Bib Gourmand, among many other awards - most recently Food & Wine’s Chef of the Year 2023.

Aishling in Ballycotton

The name of the restaurant is a nod to the much loved ‘Goldie’ fish-shaped weathervane that sits on top of the famous Shandon Bells at the ancient St Anne’s church in Shandon, just north of the city centre.   The weathervane symbolises the historical importance of fishing to Cork.

As well as taking the whole catch, Goldie operates a ‘gill to tail approach’, using as much of the fish as possible.  Some of the most notable dishes are fish spines served with house togarashi, made with hops from Elbow Lane’s brewery and Pollock collar Teryaki.  The ultimate aim is to utilise as much of the fish as possible, with an emphasis on serving parts that are usually discarded.

Catch

 

Cooking only what the boats bring in that day, Aishling’s approach to using the WHOLE CATCH has gained her a loyal customer following, taught her how to plan a well-stocked larder in the event of bad weather, and be resourceful when it comes to foraging from the seabed. Without complicated techniques, expensive equipment, or unfamiliar fish, Aishling will inspire readers to attempt recognisable dishes that make the most of the whole fish. Try Goldie’s famous fish trim nuggets, buttermilk fried tails, karaage hake, shime-style marinated cuts and mussel escabeche to make ahead and store in the fridge.

Alongside step-by-step instructions, buying and storage tips, Aishling introduces clear ways to clean, prepare and cook commonly found flat fish, round fish, shellfish, even tinned fish (!), converting even the wariest and novice cook into a confident seafood handler.

Sardines at Goldie

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

 

Aishling Moore is one of Ireland’s most exciting young chefs. Her fish restaurant, Goldie, has pioneered gill-to-fin cooking in Ireland. In 2019, Aishling was named Chef of the Year by John and Sally McKenna. Goldie achieved Michelin Bib Gourmand status in 2021 and in 2022 was awarded Best Casual Dining in Ireland 2022 by both Food & Wine Magazine and the Restaurant Association of Ireland. In 2023, Aishling was named Young Chef of the Year in the Food & Wine Awards and became deputy head of the Euro-Toques Ireland Food Council, an organisation that endeavours to preserve Irish culinary heritage by supporting traditional cooking methods and promoting producers of local and seasonal artisan products. 

To keep up to date with here follow @aishlingmoore

 

Double Win for Cork's Market Lane Group at Failte Ireland Awards

Double Win for Market Lane Group at Failte Ireland Awards

 

Pictured at the awards are (l to r) Jenny de Saulles (Fáilte Ireland), Jerry O'Sullivan
 and Judy Howard (both Market Lane)

Cork’s Market Lane Group of Restaurants has taken two of the top gongs at The Fáilte Ireland Employer Excellence Awards 2024. 

The group’s Elbow Lane Smokehouse & Brewery took the overall Award for Best Employer Food & Drink, and Goldie restaurant took the award for Best Employer Ireland’s Ancient East.  They were the only restaurants to win in any of the 14 categories announced on the night, and the only business to win two Awards.  

The Market Lane Restaurant Group is Recognised as Top Employer by 'Great Place To Work'

The Market Lane Restaurant Group is Recognised 

as Top Employer by 'Great Place To Work'

From L to R:  Margaret Keane, Grace Maduka, Ozgur Canpolat, Gavin Corrigan and Natalia Machado representing the five restaurants that comprise Cork's Market Lane Group

The Group has also won a Failte Ireland Employer Excellence Group Award

The Market Lane Group of Restaurants in Cork is honoured to announce that it is one of only a handful of companies in the Irish hospitality sector to be certified as a ‘Great Place to Work 2024’. The Group has also won a prestigious Failte Ireland ‘Employer Excellence’ Gold Award 2024, recognising it as an “outstanding employer” in the tourism sector.

“We are proud and humbled to receive these Awards,” said head of the Market Lane Group, Conrad Howard.  

“‘Great Place to Work’ (GPTW) found that 94% of staff said they would be proud to tell others they work with us and 92% think the company is a great place to work,” he said.

“We are lucky that we have such an excellent team at the Market Lane Group, and we are very proud that they feel so positively about their working environment. We have always made staff welfare and professional development a priority and these findings show that this commitment has been very worthwhile.

  
“Being recognised as a great place to work is also a huge asset; it's good for staff and suppliers, good for customers and good for business.  As far as we know we are the only restaurant group to have achieved both awards” he added.

Ozgur, with cocktails.

Comprising 5 restaurants including Market Lane, Elbow Lane Smokehouse & Brewery, ORSO, Goldie and Castle Café Blackrock, the Market Lane Group employs up to 200 staff in the hospitality sector in Cork and its restaurants look after thousands of diners every week.  As well as catering for locals, the company also prides itself as an integral part of the quality tourism offering in Cork’s city centre.

Staff recruitment and retention are key to maintaining high standards, and the group is delighted that it can now use these awards to help attract new employees into the industry and to show that it can provide them with really rewarding, longstanding careers.

Grace Maduka and Natalia Machado

 
The GPTW programme operates as part of the Tourism Ireland Employer Excellence scheme by undertaking a detailed employee survey and feedback process on behalf of employers. Strict criteria need to be met to qualify for certification and companies have to score highly across several key employee satisfaction indicators such as trust in management, training and development opportunities, pride in the workplace, remuneration and diversity and inclusion practices.

 
The Market Lane Group will now go on to take part in the finals of Failte Ireland’s annual Employer Excellence Awards which spotlights the top operators in key tourism sectors across the country.  The overall winners will be announced in May 2024.

press release

Superb Lunch Dishes And Service At Market Lane

Superb Lunch Dishes At Market Lane

Saturday 9th March 2024

Catalan Suquet fish stew of mussels, squid, hake and smoked haddock with saffron
 and paprika braised potatoes and crusty sourdough

Dal Vada lentil cakes, forbidden rice, cashew yogurt, broccoli,
sweet-pickled cucumber, chutney and dukkah.

 It was a busy Saturday in Market Lane yet the food and the service were superb. With the restaurant packed, the people out front did a magnificent job. Courteous and helpful throughout yet no pressure on the customers to hurry up at all. Indeed, it was more or less the opposite. You are given ample time to decide on your choices and no shortage of helpful info either. No rush but very efficient, so there was no delay and the service overall was as smooth as could be.

The menu is extensive with no less than ten main dishes available. Vegan and vegetarian dishes are marked and there is also a Gluten Free menu (just ask!)

This pic via Market Lane.

Excellent Elbow Lane Continues Leading Smoking and Brewing Role as 10th Anniversary Approaches

Excellent Elbow Lane Continues Leading Smoking and Brewing Role as 10th Anniversary Approaches

Duck breast

The Sharpe brothers, Ronan (manager) and Harrison (chef), have recently been appointed to the two top roles at Elbow Lane, Cork’s iconic Smokehouse and Brewery as it moves to celebrate its upcoming 10th anniversary. 

But it was an old favourite that I first turned to on last week’s visit.

I’ve often said here, and elsewhere, that their Angel Stout is one of the very best, a superb combination of hops and malt, made with the restaurant's food in mind. My very first sip confirmed previous impressions as the roasted malt showed well in the flavour. The hops  - Hercules Germany, Pilgrim UK and Williamette USA - go in early in the process and their bittering qualities make for a lovely balance, a delicious pint and even better with the dishes that follow.

Duck in blankets

The menu is written daily and is divided into Snacks, Small Plates and Mains. Of course, there are sides too and you could well have an enjoyable meal from that list which includes the likes of Blue Cheese Creamed Greens with almonds; King Oyster Mushrooms in panko crumb with Chorizo and aioli; and Baby Potatoes, crème fraiche, malt syrup and fine herbs.

To get up and running, we picked one from the Snacks: the Duck in Blankets, Berbere, herb yoghurt and one from the Starters, the Confit Octopus, roasted salsa, pickled red onion and ancho mayo. Berbere, a spicy mix, is a key ingredient in the cuisines of Ethiopia and Eritrea. And it is their use of spices, seasonings and sauces from around the world that really set Elbow Lane apart. Both the duck and octopus benefitted from their judicious application the other night.

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On Friday, 19th August, as part of Cork on a Fork Fest, Elbow Lane Brewery will showcase its limited-edition range of award-winning beers. Join head brewer Russell Garet for an informal, informative and FUN tasting in the restaurant. More details here.

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Outstanding Deep fried pork belly

Pork Belly

I was pleasantly surprised to be offered a taste of the deep-fried pork belly with fish sauce caramel, chilli and peanut. This starter is a testament to the skill of Chef Sharpe (at work less than 2 metres away) who is able to create such a delicious and flavourful dish with just a few simple ingredients. 

The pork belly is perfectly cooked, with crispy skin and tender meat. The fish sauce caramel adds a sweet and salty flavour, while the chilli and peanut provide a bit of heat and crunch. If it is on whenever you call, it is well worth considering. I’ll certainly be ordering it next time as it is probably the best expression of pork belly that I've ever come across.

For our main courses, we chose the lavender honey duck breast and the wood-grilled ribeye steak. Both dishes were outstanding. The duck breast was tender and juicy, and the lavender honey sauce gave it a unique and delicious flavour. The ribeye steak was cooked to perfection, and the smoked cascade butter added a touch of richness. A serving of the excellent Elbow Chips (another of the sides) also embellished the meats as did a sip or two of that excellent stout.

Dessert

Aside from Skeaghanore Duck, Elbow Lane also supports local producers such as the Allshire Family, Tom Durcan, K. O’Connell, Rossmore Oysters, Churchfield Community Gardens, Singing Frog Gardens, The Olive Stall and On the Pig's Back (both for cheese), Irish Gourmet Butter, Glen Farm (for goat), Mr Bells (spices and seasonings), Minch Malt, Killahora Orchards, Stonewell Cider, local gins, and also 9 White Deer (gluten-free Kolsch).

Ice wine by Killahora

Speaking of drinks, another that we enjoyed over the evening was their own Elbow Lager. They don’t over-process, and use old German brewing methods. The lager has a slight haze, is unfiltered and takes 6 weeks overall. This continental-style lager is particularly refreshing and owes its flavour to Pilsner and Munich malts and "Noble" hop varieties imported from Germany and Czechia. It weighs in at 4.4% ABV (same as the stout) and the hops used are Saaz, Hersbrucker (for its subtle aromas) and Hercules (for its bittering qualities) and is recommended for lighter dishes.

Dessert? Yes, please. Our choice was the Elderflower and mascarpone sorbet, pistachio crumble, white chocolate rice pudding, strawberries, and long pepper syrup. Lovely sweet amalgam, easily eaten at a relaxed pace. Of course, that pleasant sensation was infinitely enhanced by a glass of the Killahora Rare Apple Ice Wine. Just the job after an excellent meal.

By the way, it is not all meat here. There are vegetarian options and also a fish option (it was John Dory on the bone the night we were in). Add in the excellent friendly and helpful staff (they know the menu), always the case here, and you are on a winner. 

Check the menu here. 

Elbow Lane is part of the Market Lane group that also includes Market Lane, Goldie, ORSO and the Castle Café.

On Friday, 19th August, as part of Cork on a Fork Fest, Elbow Lane Brewery will showcase its limited-edition range of award-winning beers. Join head brewer Russell Garet for an informal, informative and FUN tasting in the restaurant. More details here.

Local Shellfish Takes Center Stage at Goldie for Cork on a Fork Festival (16-20 Aug 2023)

Local Shellfish Takes Center Stage at Goldie for Cork on a Fork Festival (16-20 Aug 2023)

Oysters. Pics by Ruth Calder- Potts

For the highly anticipated Cork on a Fork Festival (16 – 20 August), award-winning seafood restaurant, Goldie (Oliver Plunkett St), will showcase the county’s rich bounty of sustainable shellfish with a mouthwatering menu on Thursday evening 17^th August 2023.  Guests can tuck into a feast of locally landed mussels, oysters, crabs, prawns and lobster cooked with Goldie’s signature flair to bring out their unique tastes and textures.

 All profits on the night will go to Ballycotton RNLI.

Head Chef Aisling Moore

“As well as being delicious, we want to highlight how shellfish can help create a healthier marine environment,” says Aishling Moore, Head Chef of Goldie. "It is also a good opportunity to show our support of Ballycotton RNLI. We are acutely aware of the invaluable service they provide to the small fishing community of Ballycotton where we source the majority of our produce for the restaurant. We look forward to a long, fruitful relationship with them” she added.

Sustainability is at the heart of operations at Goldie which has held a Michelin Bib Gourmand since 2021. The restaurant is famous for using every part of every fish to create its menu. It also operates a ‘whole catch’ approach by creating new dishes daily based on what arrives on the day boats from nearby Ballycotton harbour, so there is no wastage.

The menu on the 17th August illustrates what an important role shellfish plays in fostering the health of our coastal waters. Both farmed and wild shellfish, particularly oysters and mussels, improve water quality by removing nitrogen, sequestering carbon and increasing biodiversity. Other varieties such as lobsters and crabs are most often caught in traps and pots, which is a low-intervention method of fishing. These pots are designed to allow undersized fish to escape and have little impact on the seabed.

There will be two sittings on the night at 5.30pm and 8pm.

Where's the Beef? Ten of the best in Cork City

Where's the Beef?

Ten of the best in Cork City

(beef round-up for 2022/23)

Brown's Brasserie at BT Jan 2023 €15.50
French Dip: Rotisserie North Cork Sirloin, Emmental Cheese,
Caramelized Onion Emulsion, Red Wine Jus, ODB Sourdough

Impressive steak salad at Liberty Grill Aug 22

Cork City has had a long, and continuing, history in beef. Such was the scale of the trade here in the 18th century that it was known as the slaughterhouse of Ireland. 

And it wasn’t just Ireland. In 1756, France and Britain were at each other’s throats in the Seven Years War and “the Great Ox-slaying city of Cork” emerged as the Royal Navy’s preferred supplier for beef, pork and butter.

So where’s the beef now? Let me take you on a lunch-time tour of the city and check out what is on offer. Some terrific beef-based dishes in Liberty Grill, Market Lane, Nua Asador, Oliver Plunkett, On The Pig's Back, Sketch at The Imperial and Woodside Farm, Bella Napoli and L'Atitude 51and all were enjoyed over the past few months.

We’re starting with a beauty at Liberty Grill on Washington Street: a seared beef salad (vodka and chilli marinated fillet strips, chargrilled on leaves with balsamic onions, rustic potatoes, red peppers and toasted pecans) was outstanding, a highlight being the palate pleasing combination of the meat and balsamic onions. A terrific dish for €15.50.

Market Lane: Korean bulgogi steak sandwich
Dec 2022

Now (a different day, of course!), it is the turn of Market Lane and their superb Korean bulgogi steak sandwich on sourdough baguette, chilli, sesame and soy marinade, carrots, spring onions, lime mayo and with a helping of excellent house chips (€16.90). The marinade is key here and the kitchen certainly did it well and the meat was top quality; the sourdough was moistened as well and they all worked so well together, enhanced by the crunch of carrot strips and the onions, the salad leaves and those very tasty fries. A terrific dish and well priced.

Picanha Steak by Nua Asador May 2022

We make a visit to the Marina Market and the Nua Asador stall where Chef Victor Franca, in partnership with Tom Durcan Meats, serves up, without gas or electricity, just fire, the best of Irish beef in a Brazilian style. You’ll really enjoy the Picanha Steak with sourdough bread, grilled baby potatoes, chargrilled onions, Farofa, and Chimichurri Sauce (13.00).

Oliver Plunkett's Seared Steak Sandwich July 2022

It was a visit to the Oliver Plunkett that started me on this beef trail. Here’s why: Seared Steak Sandwich was worth every cent of the €18.95. Four generous slices of beef wrapped in Garlic Ciabatta, with a red onion and Smoky Bacon Jam, Pepper Jack Chips, Brandy Pepper Sauce and a Little Salad.

I wasn’t letting go of this, clinging on until the last bite. It was sensual, an enthralling mix of textures and flavours. The steak was ace,  cooked to perfection and so easy to slice. And then the enhancement, that garlic ciabatta, the onion and the bacon jam. The Brandy Pepper Sauce was another major player on the palate, deeply enticingly enhancing everything else. The salad too was perfect and then those Pepper Jack Chips, cheesy, tasty, delicious.

On the pig's back with Bourguignon Beef Baguette Oct 2022

Next stop is Douglas to visit On the Pig’s Back and enjoy their Bourguignon Beef Baguette: Braised Beef Brisket, Mushrooms, Bacon and Pearl Onions on Toasted Arbutus Baguette with Red Wine Jus. Just five-star lunch-ing, spot-on for the cool day, quite a warming ensemble, robed deliciously in the red wine jus. Love the French touch!

Delicious steak at Sketch Oct 2022

Here we are in Sketch, the bright and airy dining room in the lovely Imperial Hotel, a room where new executive chef Ali Honour is making her mark. There was a group of us and the Steak Sandwich (6oz Sirloin, Onions, Garlic Butter, Focaccia, Lettuce, Tomato, Fries) for  €19.00 proved very popular, ordered by three of the seven adults. The meat and the Focaccia were absolute top notch and all three were well satisfied.

Beautiful! Beef Burger by Woodside Farm Oct 2022

Alphabetically, Woodside Farm is our final destination and they are found every Thursday in Mahon Point Farmers Market (and at other markets on other days). They are perhaps best known for their magnificent free range pork but they also do a highly rated Beef Burger and serve it with relish and salad in a lovely bun, for 8 euro  (if I remember rightly). Superb meat and great value.

All their offerings are cooked and filled in front of you, and there's a chat as well, as the salads and relishes are added. And, if necessary, they even provide a tailor-made insulated envelope to take your purchases back to the office or home.

Bella Napoli Dec 2022

Bella Napoli came up Rigatoni with Ragu Napoletano with six-hour braised beef in an onion and tomato sauce served with rigatoni pasta and bruschetta (17 euro). I hit the jackpot here. This was beautifully cooked, the quality of the beef was top class and plenty of it as was also the case with the ragu. Very happy with this one.

L'Atitude pic Dec 2022

Slow-Braised Beef Cheeks, Celeriac Mash, Spiced Pickled Cranberries (a cool inclusion) was one of the highlights of a recent visit to L'Atitude, a superb dish in an impressively expanded menu and well worthy of inclusion here. More details at https://www.corkbilly.com/2022/12/wine-and-dine-at-latitude-huge-choice.html

* All these dishes enjoyed relatively recently but remember that menus and chefs change.

When Market Lane cook for you, Resistance is zero

When Market Lane cook for you,

Resistance is zero

Rhubarb Crumble

The proof is in the pudding and so the best test of a restaurant is to eat their food. It is a test that Market Lane passes time and time again. As they did at lunch last Wednesday.

Rhubarb Lemonade

Just as well we had made a reservation. Their outside dining area on Oliver Plunkett Street was full and so was their even larger area on Beasley Street. It was packed and buzzing inside as well and we were fortunate to get a large table by a window.

It was one of those heatwave days so a drink was required. Not one with alcohol, even though I am a big fan of their own Elbow Lane beers! They have quite a choice of soft drinks including the usual suspects but also Wild Orchard Apple Juice and a couple of Fentiman’s (Trad. Ginger Beer and Curiosity Cola). Also a selection that they make themselves and from which I picked the delicious and refreshing Homemade Rhubarb Lemonade (€3.20).

The menu is a longish and varied one, even at lunchtime. Main dishes vary from a Vietnamese Chicken Salad to a Slow cooked Rosscarbery bacon collar, from Fish and Chips in an Elbow Lane batter to Pan Fried Hake with a smoked mussel and tomato sauce. And they also offer no less than eight side dishes.

My choice was the Korean bulgogi steak sandwich on sourdough baguette, chilli, sesame and soy marinade, carrots, spring onions, lime mayo and with a helping of excellent house chips (€16.90). A terrific dish and well priced. 

The marinade is key here and the kitchen certainly did it well and the meat was top quality; the sourdough was moistened as well and they all worked so well together, enhanced by the crunch of carrot strips and the onions, the salad leaves and those very tasty fries. Very Highly Recommended. I have tasted quite a few steak sandwiches this summer and oddly enough the two best are within metres of one another; my other favourite was a special at the Oliver Plunkett. Must have a head to head sometime!

We passed on the starters. They have six available ranging from Pea and Courgette fritters with Toonsbridge Fete, mint chutney and labneh to the more substantial Confit Lamb Croquettes with salad and more. You can choose from a range of sandwiches and there’s also a Soup and Sandwich Deal.

But I wasn’t going to pass on the desserts! The lists includes their well loved Orange and Vanilla Bread and Butter pudding, custard and whipped cream. Strawberry Glory, with Bushby’s Strawberries, also caught my eye as did most of the others to be honest.  How about the Ferrero dessert cocktail with Jameson Whiskey, Nutella and espresso garnished with more Nutella and hazelnuts? 

Market Lane photo (via the restaurant)

Having enjoyed the rhubarb drink earlier, I stuck with it for the sweet in the shape of a Roasted Rhubarb and walnut butter crumble with a little jug of warm custard €6.80). Outstanding, another toothsome recommendation for you.

After that it was out into the roasting afternoon, staying on the shady side of the streets as we headed across the north channel and the road to the hills.

Restaurant Info

Opening times:12-late 7 days.

Tel: 021 427 4710,

email: info@marketlane.ie,

Web: MarketLane.ie,

Insta & Facebook: /marketlanecork

Twitter: @market_lane