Sardinian Seafood Pasta a Highlight of Market Lane Lunch

 Sardinian Seafood Pasta a Highlight

 of Market Lane Lunch

Orzo pasta centre right of pic (via Couleur on Pixabay)

Sardinian Seafood pasta was the highlight of a recent lunchtime visit to Cork's marvellous Market Lane Restaurant which has been feeding us well in Oliver Plunkett Street since 2007. It was founded with the aim of sourcing much of their incoming produce from local suppliers and the nearby English Market.

The full description of my dish was Sardinian Seafood Pasta, featuring prawns, mussels, hake, and braised squid in a tomato and chilli ragu, served with orzo pasta and pangrattato.(€23.00

I could see that my Orzo pasta is a type that resembles large grains of rice. It's typically made from wheat and is often used in Italian cuisine, also in neighbouring countries (such as Greece). Its small size makes it a versatile ingredient that can easily absorb flavours.

Had to do a bit of research to find that out! I had an idea, though, that the following word, pangrattato, would have something to do with bread. Considering its musical name, I was hoping for something more glamorous than breadcrumbs, even toasted and seasoned! I’m something of a sucker for those magical Italian names that have graced our football fields for many years, names such as Fabio Cannavaro and Alessandro Del Piero. You’d really have a head start in romance, whatever about football, with monikers like that!

Mossfield Gouda and asparagus tartlet

Back to the stellar Pasta dish. It may not have been the most glamorous to look at, but its performance on the plate was faultless, a formidable mix of fish with the chilli and juicy tomatoes playing a blinder, backed to the hilt by that Orzo and even by those humble breadcrumbs.

Hard to believe that back in 2009 Bord Iascaigh Mhara felt the need to mount an extensive promotion campaign to get people to ask for hake and other lesser-known fish.

Nowadays, hake appears on virtually every restaurant menu in the country. It is a favourite with CL, and no big surprise when she picked the pan-fried hake, potato, parsnip, and rosemary gratin, tenderstem broccoli, dry cider, and fennel sauce (€23.20). It was well-cooked and presented, and earned a big thumbs up.

Also in contention! Korean bulgogi steak sandwich on a sourdough baguette, with chilli, sesame, and soy marinade, carrots, spring onions, and lime mayo, served with house chips. I enjoyed this here previously and can highly recommend it.  

While the hake may have been familiar, that was not the case with the starters and my Mossfield Gouda and asparagus tartlet, asparagus salad, shaved parmesan and chives (11.90) was a beauty with a distinctive flavour and texture. 

That starter was vegetarian while CL’s Cauliflower croquetas, butterbean and green herb purée, sun-dried tomato sauce vierge, toasted pumpkin seeds, crispy cauliflower leaves  (11.50) was vegan and also excellent, even though the cauliflower leaves were far from crispy.

There’s always a terrific choice, both at lunch and dinner, at Market Lane. Also in contention as a starter was the Frenchman’s Heaven: French Onion Soup with Coolea cheese and sourdough croutons. I was very tempted, as it's a favourite, but I decided to try the tartlet instead!

Suppliers included: Churchfield Community Trust, The Singing Frog Garden, Mealagulla Orchard, Bushby Strawberries, and the likes of Mr Bells and The Chicken Inn (two from a half dozen from the English Market). A little further afield, you’ll note Blasket Lamb (Kerry), Tom Baldwin (Waterford), and Crowe’s Farm (Tipperary).

Speaking of local, they have their own superb beers, produced next door at their Elbow Lane Brewery. The stout is my favourite but I certainly wouldn’t refuse any of them.

More pros at Market Lane.

If you buy a voucher, you’ll be giving the lucky recipient a choice of the five restaurants in the group: Elbow Lane, Goldie, ORSO, Castle Café and Market Lane itself (which has a city centre location and a friendly and helpful staff on the floor).

SPRING SINGS FROM THE NEW MENU AT ORSO

SPRING SINGS FROM NEW MENU AT ORSO

 now open 6 days a week from 11 am until late, including Monday

Cork City’s little gem of a restaurant, ORSO, renowned for its flavour-filled Levantine cuisine, has put seasonal produce from local producers and growers centre stage of its new spring menus.  At the same time, its newly renovated dining room is now full of light and uplifting colours, reflecting the fresh-forward, seasonal direction of the food.

Expect to see fruit and vegetables such as Jerusalem artichokes, cauliflower, fennel, pea shoots, blood oranges, pomegranate and beetroot highlighted in dishes such as ‘cauliflower with caramelized fennel cream and sauerkraut’. New season lamb appears in mains such as a hearty ‘Lamb Harira with black olive and chorizo’.  As well as a delicious Seafood Cioppino, there is a daily changing fish special.

Cocktail syrups, dressings and desserts are also homemade using fresh flowers, herbs and fruit from growers.

While it is well known as a lunch destination, ORSO has also made the night-time its own and is now open 6 days a week from 11 am until late, including Monday.  Dee Munnelly, owner-manager of ORSO, says “As we have evolved into a lunch and evening venue to cater for the changing needs of our diners, so too have our menus.  As well as vegetarian dishes we also have great options for meat and fish lovers.  Our wine list has expanded; we serve our estate exclusive Elbow Lane beers and cocktails have become a speciality.

"All produce at the restaurant is sourced from local producers, where possible from the larder of The English Market.  Spices are prepared in-house daily, and all of our bread is freshly baked to order. Some of our growers are hyper-local to us and we love working with what they provide us with each day."

Orso is part of the award-winning Market Lane Restaurant Group, which also includes Market Lane, Elbow Lane Smokehouse & Brewery, goldie and Blackrock Castle Café.

press release

CORK'S MARKET LANE GROUP; ONLY RESTAURANTS TO PLACE ON LIST OF IRELANDS BEST WORKPLACES 2025

press release

CORK'S MARKET LANE GROUP; ONLY RESTAURANTS TO

 PLACE ON LIST OF IRELANDS BEST WORKPLACES 2025

A moment to celebrate the award for Market Lane co-owners. 

From L to R:  Mark O'Shaughnessy, Tracey Corbett, Judy Howard and Conrad Howard  

The progressive, Cork-based Market Lane Restaurant Group has received a major boost to its 2025 recruitment drive by being named one of Ireland's Best Workplaces 2025, after a thorough and independent analysis conducted by Great Place to Work® Institute Ireland. The newly selected companies were announced on Wednesday 26 March 2025. The

Market Lane Knows Its Onions

 Market Lane Knows Its Onions

I’ve been enjoying the French Onion Soup at Market Lane since 2009. The current version, featuring Coolea cheese and sourdough croutons, is one of the best yet and was served as a fantastic starter during

AISHLING MOORE OF GOLDIE WINS 'IRELAND'S BEST CHEF 2024' AT RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION OF IRELAND (RAI) AWARDS

press release

AISHLING MOORE OF GOLDIE WINS 'IRELAND'S BEST CHEF 2024' 

AT RESTAURANT ASSOCIATION OF IRELAND (RAI) AWARDS

The ultimate accolade for a chef in Ireland has been awarded to Aishling Moore of Goldie Restaurant in Cork, who was named ‘Best Chef Ireland 2024’ at the Restaurant Association of Ireland’s Annual Awards which were announced last night, Monday 20 May 2024, to a

From gill-to-fin, Aishling Moore has the Whole Catch covered in her new book

Red Gurnard and, below, on the plate at Goldie.

 

#10 WHOLE CATCH

Aishling Moore

Blasta Books

Published 25^th April, £13/€15

#10: WHOLE CATCH introduces you to pioneering young chef Aishling Moore, one of Ireland’s biggest advocates for regenerative aquaculture and a promoter of the gill-to-fin approach.

 

At 24 years old, Aishling opened Goldie, a seafood bistro in Cork. In just two years,

Double Win for Cork's Market Lane Group at Failte Ireland Awards

Double Win for Market Lane Group at Failte Ireland Awards

 

Pictured at the awards are (l to r) Jenny de Saulles (Fáilte Ireland), Jerry O'Sullivan
 and Judy Howard (both Market Lane)

Cork’s Market Lane Group of Restaurants has taken two of the top gongs at The Fáilte Ireland Employer Excellence Awards 2024. 

The group’s Elbow Lane Smokehouse & Brewery took the overall Award for Best Employer Food & Drink, and Goldie restaurant took the award for Best Employer Ireland’s Ancient East.  They were the only restaurants to win in any of the 14 categories announced on the night, and the only business to win two Awards.  

The Market Lane Restaurant Group is Recognised as Top Employer by 'Great Place To Work'

The Market Lane Restaurant Group is Recognised 

as Top Employer by 'Great Place To Work'

From L to R:  Margaret Keane, Grace Maduka, Ozgur Canpolat, Gavin Corrigan and Natalia Machado representing the five restaurants that comprise Cork's Market Lane Group

The Group has also won a Failte Ireland Employer Excellence Group Award

The Market Lane Group of Restaurants in Cork is honoured to announce that it is one of only a handful of companies in the Irish hospitality sector to be certified as a ‘Great Place to Work 2024’. The Group has also won a prestigious Failte Ireland ‘Employer Excellence’ Gold Award 2024, recognising it as an “outstanding employer” in the tourism sector.

“We are proud and humbled to receive these Awards,” said head of the Market Lane Group, Conrad Howard.  

“‘Great Place to Work’ (GPTW) found that 94% of staff said they would be proud to tell others they work with us and 92% think the company is a great place to work,” he said.

“We are lucky that we have such an excellent team at the Market Lane Group, and we are very proud that they feel so positively about their working environment. We have always made staff welfare and professional development a priority and these findings show that this commitment has been very worthwhile.

  
“Being recognised as a great place to work is also a huge asset; it's good for staff and suppliers, good for customers and good for business.  As far as we know we are the only restaurant group to have achieved both awards” he added.

Ozgur, with cocktails.

Comprising 5 restaurants including Market Lane, Elbow Lane Smokehouse & Brewery, ORSO, Goldie and Castle Café Blackrock, the Market Lane Group employs up to 200 staff in the hospitality sector in Cork and its restaurants look after thousands of diners every week.  As well as catering for locals, the company also prides itself as an integral part of the quality tourism offering in Cork’s city centre.

Staff recruitment and retention are key to maintaining high standards, and the group is delighted that it can now use these awards to help attract new employees into the industry and to show that it can provide them with really rewarding, longstanding careers.

Grace Maduka and Natalia Machado

 
The GPTW programme operates as part of the Tourism Ireland Employer Excellence scheme by undertaking a detailed employee survey and feedback process on behalf of employers. Strict criteria need to be met to qualify for certification and companies have to score highly across several key employee satisfaction indicators such as trust in management, training and development opportunities, pride in the workplace, remuneration and diversity and inclusion practices.

 
The Market Lane Group will now go on to take part in the finals of Failte Ireland’s annual Employer Excellence Awards which spotlights the top operators in key tourism sectors across the country.  The overall winners will be announced in May 2024.

press release

Superb Lunch Dishes And Service At Market Lane

Superb Lunch Dishes At Market Lane

Saturday 9th March 2024

Catalan Suquet fish stew of mussels, squid, hake and smoked haddock with saffron
 and paprika braised potatoes and crusty sourdough

Dal Vada lentil cakes, forbidden rice, cashew yogurt, broccoli,
sweet-pickled cucumber, chutney and dukkah.

 It was a busy Saturday in Market Lane yet the food and the service were superb. With the restaurant packed, the people out front did a magnificent job. Courteous and helpful throughout yet no pressure on the customers to hurry up at all. Indeed, it was more or less the opposite. You are given ample time to decide on your choices and no shortage of helpful info either. No rush but very efficient, so there was no delay and the service overall was as smooth as could be.

The menu is extensive with no less than ten main dishes available. Vegan and vegetarian dishes are marked and there is also a Gluten Free menu (just ask!)

This pic via Market Lane.

Excellent Elbow Lane Continues Leading Smoking and Brewing Role as 10th Anniversary Approaches

Excellent Elbow Lane Continues Leading Smoking and Brewing Role as 10th Anniversary Approaches

Duck breast

The Sharpe brothers, Ronan (manager) and Harrison (chef), have recently been appointed to the two top roles at Elbow Lane, Cork’s iconic Smokehouse and Brewery as it moves to celebrate its upcoming 10th anniversary. 

But it was an old favourite that I first turned to on last week’s visit.

I’ve often said here, and elsewhere, that their Angel Stout is one of the very best, a superb combination of hops and malt, made with the restaurant's food in mind. My very first sip confirmed previous impressions as the roasted malt showed well in the flavour. The hops  - Hercules Germany, Pilgrim UK and Williamette USA - go in early in the process and their bittering qualities make for a lovely balance, a delicious pint and even better with the dishes that follow.

Duck in blankets

The menu is written daily and is divided into Snacks, Small Plates and Mains. Of course, there are sides too and you could well have an enjoyable meal from that list which includes the likes of Blue Cheese Creamed Greens with almonds; King Oyster Mushrooms in panko crumb with Chorizo and aioli; and Baby Potatoes, crème fraiche, malt syrup and fine herbs.

To get up and running, we picked one from the Snacks: the Duck in Blankets, Berbere, herb yoghurt and one from the Starters, the Confit Octopus, roasted salsa, pickled red onion and ancho mayo. Berbere, a spicy mix, is a key ingredient in the cuisines of Ethiopia and Eritrea. And it is their use of spices, seasonings and sauces from around the world that really set Elbow Lane apart. Both the duck and octopus benefitted from their judicious application the other night.

**********

On Friday, 19th August, as part of Cork on a Fork Fest, Elbow Lane Brewery will showcase its limited-edition range of award-winning beers. Join head brewer Russell Garet for an informal, informative and FUN tasting in the restaurant. More details here.

**********

Outstanding Deep fried pork belly

Pork Belly

I was pleasantly surprised to be offered a taste of the deep-fried pork belly with fish sauce caramel, chilli and peanut. This starter is a testament to the skill of Chef Sharpe (at work less than 2 metres away) who is able to create such a delicious and flavourful dish with just a few simple ingredients. 

The pork belly is perfectly cooked, with crispy skin and tender meat. The fish sauce caramel adds a sweet and salty flavour, while the chilli and peanut provide a bit of heat and crunch. If it is on whenever you call, it is well worth considering. I’ll certainly be ordering it next time as it is probably the best expression of pork belly that I've ever come across.

For our main courses, we chose the lavender honey duck breast and the wood-grilled ribeye steak. Both dishes were outstanding. The duck breast was tender and juicy, and the lavender honey sauce gave it a unique and delicious flavour. The ribeye steak was cooked to perfection, and the smoked cascade butter added a touch of richness. A serving of the excellent Elbow Chips (another of the sides) also embellished the meats as did a sip or two of that excellent stout.

Dessert

Aside from Skeaghanore Duck, Elbow Lane also supports local producers such as the Allshire Family, Tom Durcan, K. O’Connell, Rossmore Oysters, Churchfield Community Gardens, Singing Frog Gardens, The Olive Stall and On the Pig's Back (both for cheese), Irish Gourmet Butter, Glen Farm (for goat), Mr Bells (spices and seasonings), Minch Malt, Killahora Orchards, Stonewell Cider, local gins, and also 9 White Deer (gluten-free Kolsch).

Ice wine by Killahora

Speaking of drinks, another that we enjoyed over the evening was their own Elbow Lager. They don’t over-process, and use old German brewing methods. The lager has a slight haze, is unfiltered and takes 6 weeks overall. This continental-style lager is particularly refreshing and owes its flavour to Pilsner and Munich malts and "Noble" hop varieties imported from Germany and Czechia. It weighs in at 4.4% ABV (same as the stout) and the hops used are Saaz, Hersbrucker (for its subtle aromas) and Hercules (for its bittering qualities) and is recommended for lighter dishes.

Dessert? Yes, please. Our choice was the Elderflower and mascarpone sorbet, pistachio crumble, white chocolate rice pudding, strawberries, and long pepper syrup. Lovely sweet amalgam, easily eaten at a relaxed pace. Of course, that pleasant sensation was infinitely enhanced by a glass of the Killahora Rare Apple Ice Wine. Just the job after an excellent meal.

By the way, it is not all meat here. There are vegetarian options and also a fish option (it was John Dory on the bone the night we were in). Add in the excellent friendly and helpful staff (they know the menu), always the case here, and you are on a winner. 

Check the menu here. 

Elbow Lane is part of the Market Lane group that also includes Market Lane, Goldie, ORSO and the Castle Café.

On Friday, 19th August, as part of Cork on a Fork Fest, Elbow Lane Brewery will showcase its limited-edition range of award-winning beers. Join head brewer Russell Garet for an informal, informative and FUN tasting in the restaurant. More details here.

Local Shellfish Takes Center Stage at Goldie for Cork on a Fork Festival (16-20 Aug 2023)

Local Shellfish Takes Center Stage at Goldie for Cork on a Fork Festival (16-20 Aug 2023)

Oysters. Pics by Ruth Calder- Potts

For the highly anticipated Cork on a Fork Festival (16 – 20 August), award-winning seafood restaurant, Goldie (Oliver Plunkett St), will showcase the county’s rich bounty of sustainable shellfish with a mouthwatering menu on Thursday evening 17^th August 2023.  Guests can tuck into a feast of locally landed mussels, oysters, crabs, prawns and lobster cooked with Goldie’s signature flair to bring out their unique tastes and textures.

 All profits on the night will go to Ballycotton RNLI.

Head Chef Aisling Moore

“As well as being delicious, we want to highlight how shellfish can help create a healthier marine environment,” says Aishling Moore, Head Chef of Goldie. "It is also a good opportunity to show our support of Ballycotton RNLI. We are acutely aware of the invaluable service they provide to the small fishing community of Ballycotton where we source the majority of our produce for the restaurant. We look forward to a long, fruitful relationship with them” she added.

Sustainability is at the heart of operations at Goldie which has held a Michelin Bib Gourmand since 2021. The restaurant is famous for using every part of every fish to create its menu. It also operates a ‘whole catch’ approach by creating new dishes daily based on what arrives on the day boats from nearby Ballycotton harbour, so there is no wastage.

The menu on the 17th August illustrates what an important role shellfish plays in fostering the health of our coastal waters. Both farmed and wild shellfish, particularly oysters and mussels, improve water quality by removing nitrogen, sequestering carbon and increasing biodiversity. Other varieties such as lobsters and crabs are most often caught in traps and pots, which is a low-intervention method of fishing. These pots are designed to allow undersized fish to escape and have little impact on the seabed.

There will be two sittings on the night at 5.30pm and 8pm.

Where's the Beef? Ten of the best in Cork City

Where's the Beef?

Ten of the best in Cork City

(beef round-up for 2022/23)

Brown's Brasserie at BT Jan 2023 €15.50
French Dip: Rotisserie North Cork Sirloin, Emmental Cheese,
Caramelized Onion Emulsion, Red Wine Jus, ODB Sourdough

Impressive steak salad at Liberty Grill Aug 22

Cork City has had a long, and continuing, history in beef. Such was the scale of the trade here in the 18th century that it was known as the slaughterhouse of Ireland. 

And it wasn’t just Ireland. In 1756, France and Britain were at each other’s throats in the Seven Years War and “the Great Ox-slaying city of Cork” emerged as the Royal Navy’s preferred supplier for beef, pork and butter.

So where’s the beef now? Let me take you on a lunch-time tour of the city and check out what is on offer. Some terrific beef-based dishes in Liberty Grill, Market Lane, Nua Asador, Oliver Plunkett, On The Pig's Back, Sketch at The Imperial and Woodside Farm, Bella Napoli and L'Atitude 51and all were enjoyed over the past few months.

We’re starting with a beauty at Liberty Grill on Washington Street: a seared beef salad (vodka and chilli marinated fillet strips, chargrilled on leaves with balsamic onions, rustic potatoes, red peppers and toasted pecans) was outstanding, a highlight being the palate pleasing combination of the meat and balsamic onions. A terrific dish for €15.50.

Market Lane: Korean bulgogi steak sandwich
Dec 2022

Now (a different day, of course!), it is the turn of Market Lane and their superb Korean bulgogi steak sandwich on sourdough baguette, chilli, sesame and soy marinade, carrots, spring onions, lime mayo and with a helping of excellent house chips (€16.90). The marinade is key here and the kitchen certainly did it well and the meat was top quality; the sourdough was moistened as well and they all worked so well together, enhanced by the crunch of carrot strips and the onions, the salad leaves and those very tasty fries. A terrific dish and well priced.

Picanha Steak by Nua Asador May 2022

We make a visit to the Marina Market and the Nua Asador stall where Chef Victor Franca, in partnership with Tom Durcan Meats, serves up, without gas or electricity, just fire, the best of Irish beef in a Brazilian style. You’ll really enjoy the Picanha Steak with sourdough bread, grilled baby potatoes, chargrilled onions, Farofa, and Chimichurri Sauce (13.00).

Oliver Plunkett's Seared Steak Sandwich July 2022

It was a visit to the Oliver Plunkett that started me on this beef trail. Here’s why: Seared Steak Sandwich was worth every cent of the €18.95. Four generous slices of beef wrapped in Garlic Ciabatta, with a red onion and Smoky Bacon Jam, Pepper Jack Chips, Brandy Pepper Sauce and a Little Salad.

I wasn’t letting go of this, clinging on until the last bite. It was sensual, an enthralling mix of textures and flavours. The steak was ace,  cooked to perfection and so easy to slice. And then the enhancement, that garlic ciabatta, the onion and the bacon jam. The Brandy Pepper Sauce was another major player on the palate, deeply enticingly enhancing everything else. The salad too was perfect and then those Pepper Jack Chips, cheesy, tasty, delicious.

On the pig's back with Bourguignon Beef Baguette Oct 2022

Next stop is Douglas to visit On the Pig’s Back and enjoy their Bourguignon Beef Baguette: Braised Beef Brisket, Mushrooms, Bacon and Pearl Onions on Toasted Arbutus Baguette with Red Wine Jus. Just five-star lunch-ing, spot-on for the cool day, quite a warming ensemble, robed deliciously in the red wine jus. Love the French touch!

Delicious steak at Sketch Oct 2022

Here we are in Sketch, the bright and airy dining room in the lovely Imperial Hotel, a room where new executive chef Ali Honour is making her mark. There was a group of us and the Steak Sandwich (6oz Sirloin, Onions, Garlic Butter, Focaccia, Lettuce, Tomato, Fries) for  €19.00 proved very popular, ordered by three of the seven adults. The meat and the Focaccia were absolute top notch and all three were well satisfied.

Beautiful! Beef Burger by Woodside Farm Oct 2022

Alphabetically, Woodside Farm is our final destination and they are found every Thursday in Mahon Point Farmers Market (and at other markets on other days). They are perhaps best known for their magnificent free range pork but they also do a highly rated Beef Burger and serve it with relish and salad in a lovely bun, for 8 euro  (if I remember rightly). Superb meat and great value.

All their offerings are cooked and filled in front of you, and there's a chat as well, as the salads and relishes are added. And, if necessary, they even provide a tailor-made insulated envelope to take your purchases back to the office or home.

Bella Napoli Dec 2022

Bella Napoli came up Rigatoni with Ragu Napoletano with six-hour braised beef in an onion and tomato sauce served with rigatoni pasta and bruschetta (17 euro). I hit the jackpot here. This was beautifully cooked, the quality of the beef was top class and plenty of it as was also the case with the ragu. Very happy with this one.

L'Atitude pic Dec 2022

Slow-Braised Beef Cheeks, Celeriac Mash, Spiced Pickled Cranberries (a cool inclusion) was one of the highlights of a recent visit to L'Atitude, a superb dish in an impressively expanded menu and well worthy of inclusion here. More details at https://www.corkbilly.com/2022/12/wine-and-dine-at-latitude-huge-choice.html

* All these dishes enjoyed relatively recently but remember that menus and chefs change.