Taste Tip
St Tola Divine
Twenty Years A-Blogging. Tweets on Food and Drink in Ireland (Cork mostly) including brewers, distillers, farmers markets, food stores, producers, restaurants and hotels.
Taste Tip
St Tola Divine
Clancy’s. A welcome lunch of three tarts, almost!
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| St Tola Tartlet |
After a walk against the wind on the Youghal Eco Boardwalk, with grains of sand stinging the old facial skin, we arrived back at the Front Strand to a welcome lunch in nearby Clancy’s.
It was a lunch starring three tarts, almost. Almost, because the dessert of Creme Brûlée was the traditional and not the tart version.
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| Tempura Prawns |
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| Chicken and galette |
Their Free Range Chicken Supreme €22.90 was an excellent example of the type, not a bite was left. It came with mashed potato, a galette (tart) of Savoy cabbage, bacon and wild mushroom, along with a creamy marsala wine sauce, a winning combination for sure.
I was looking for a good feed after the windy walk and my mains was the Roast Sirloin Of Irish Beef (€19.90). The Yorkshire Pudding wasn’t available (not that I worried too much, not my favourite at all) but I did enjoy the tender tasty beef, the creamed potato and the shared seasonal vegetables. That amazing house jús, a generous pour, played a leading role.
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| Beef |
The Crême Brûlée was shared. The Créma Catalana (€7.90,) to give it its full title, is served with a large cinnamon flavoured cookie (a treat in itself). All in all, a big thumbs up.
What I did notice here, aside from the welcome and friendly service, was their amazing whiskey list. There must be about three dozen Irish types, including plenty from Midleton of course, and then they have bottles from all over, including Japan. We were driving to Dungarvan so had to leave them all on the shelf. Next time.
It would be a great excuse to get the train to Youghal but that service ceased decades ago. Clancy’s have some railway memorabilia around the impressive premises and as we strolled back to the car we could see the old turnable - at least its concrete circumference - where the train engines were turned around to head back to the city.
I used that train many a time on childhood trips to the front stand, my head out the window as smoke and sparks flew by, sometimes setting fire to the vegetation on the cuttings. Choo, Choo. Well it was a different kind of chew in Clancy’s, quite an impressive one at that.
Also on this trip: Waterford Festival of Food, a West Waterford slice.
Goldie Sure Has That Swing.
O🐟ial!
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| Pannacotta |
You can have the best produce. The best equipment in the kitchen. The most comfortable seating. A stellar wine list. All those won't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing.
And Goldie’s Aishling Moore sure has that swing. She gives it everything she’s got and her food sings. Cool or hot, the rhythm is on the spot, taking customers to a different level every single visit and each and every dish.
Just a few years on the scene in the heart of Cork City and Goldie has built a unique reputation for the quality of its fish dishes. But it is not all fish here. There are some very tempting vegetarian dishes and those desserts strike, well let us caress, those sweet spots. Even Michelin agrees. Goldie has a Bib Gourmand and is also on its latest list of the best places to go for seafood in Ireland.
Aishling is quite a conductor, often composing as she goes. The menu changes daily. “Whatever the small boats bring us, we take. We forage on the local coast for sea vegetables and seaweed.”
And there’s some singing in the background too. West Cork’s Singing Frog Gardens are prominent on the menu. Lots of herbs, even wasabi on the cured plaice. That wasabi is of course local and other local suppliers include Rossmore Oysters, Churchfield Community Gardens, Cuinneog (Mayo), East Ferry poultry, Bushby Strawberries, St Tola cheese, Achill island salt and more..
Our server has a warm welcome for us and gives us an enthusiastic run through the menu, highlighting the Red Mullet Anchovies in the Snacks, the Cured Plaice in the 5 Small Plates and the three fish in the 5 Mains.
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| Schnitzel |
We take our time as we make our choices. The Rossmore Oysters for me and the Cod Tail Schnitzel for CL along with a glass of the Angel Stout and Elbow Lager (both made across the road by the Elbow Lane microbrewery, part of the Market Lane group as is Goldie).
Aishling tells us the beers chosen are just perfect for the small plates. Small? In quantity, I suppose the word fits. But the quality is stratospheric! Those oysters, with the Singing Frog lemongrass and ginger granita, are the best I have ever tasted. Quite a beginning, zing and swing.
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| Monkfish |
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| Stout |
Now for the mains, not too easy to relegate the Pan Roast Turbot with Churchfield herb panisse but we choose the Pan Fried Plaice and the Panfired Monkfish.
CL’s Plaice came with Singing Frog Courgette and a chicken and miso butter sauce. Again, everything was just perfect, the courgette a surprising enhancement along with the sauce. Not forgetting some of the shared side of Sea Salt Shoestring Chips (say that quickly!).
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| Plaice |
Panaeng is a lovely mild curry named after tropical Penang and that was what my Monkfish came in, along with a tasty sunflower seed relish. The Panaeng can be spiced up with chillis but this was perfect as it was and the whole dish was another hit from the Goldie repertoire. Just to mention that those fries were also top-class.
Desserts are often an afterthought if they are thought of at all, in many restaurants, and you often have the usual suspects to choose from and nothing innovative in sight. Not here. Even though the list is short, just three, they are rather special.
A duo of sweet beauties highlighted the finalé, with Rosscarbery fruit growers, Bushbys, featuring deliciously in both. Mine was the Singing Frog basil pannacotta with Bushby’s strawberry sorbet and meringue. What an ensemble! And CL’s was another hit from the Goldie playlist, a beautiful combination of the St Tola cheese ice cream, with Bushby raspberries and beetroot molasses.
We relaxed, serene in foodie Nirvana. Very Highly Recommended. Very well priced also, by the way. Put it on your list and put this song on your playlist!
“Yes, it don't mean a thing, if it ain't got that swing
Well, it don't mean a thing, all you got to do is sing
It makes no difference if it's sweet or hot
Just give that rhythm everything you got”
(It Don't Mean a Thing by Duke Ellington and Irving Mills)
Burren Gold’s the star of the Aillwee Cave Farm Shop that highlights the best of Irish Food.
There’s a bunch of cows, Holstein Friesians and Fleckviehs (an Austrian breed), grazing on the tough fields around the Caherconnell Stone Fort in the heart of the Burren in County Clare. The Fleckviehs have arrived in the last couple of years.
Not easy for a cow to get a decent biteful here; grass is not plentiful, far from it, but the cows also eat some of the famous herbs and plants that grow in the crevices in the great pavement of the Burren rock. And that hard-earned mix of flavours goes to make Burren Gold, a Gouda style cheese for which Aillwee is rightly famous.
So both Aillwee and the farmer have benefited from the inclusion of the Austrian breed. They have been making the cheese here since 1985. So why haven’t we heard more about it? The main reason is that over 90 per cent of it is sold right here in the Farm Shop and the rest locally.
Burren Gold is a firm textured Gouda style cheese with a rich creamy taste. It comes in a variety of flavours:- Plain, Smoked, Cumin, Garlic & Nettle, Black Pepper and for something a little more exotic—Piri Piri.
They also age some of the cheese. You can see the racks of wheels in a glassed off section of the cheesemaking shop (you can also see the cheesemaker in action), one for 12 months, another for 24. These mature cheeses are splendid and we bought ourselves a piece that was just over 12 months. And it seems every bit as good, if not better, than it was on our last visit in early 2019. And you’ll soon be able to buy even older cheeses here.
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| Some of my shopping! |
With all the sales at the cave, I thought they would have been lower numbers of cheese purchases because of Covid restrictions. But not a bit of it! Dave: “It has been our busiest summer ever.” But they did take steps to make sure sales stayed up. They introduced online sales and also a Cheese Club and both have been very successful. Check it out here.
When we spoke on September 1st, Dave was keen to let me know how the shop itself had changed over the past two years, stressing that the range of produce and products available had changed. Before, much had been imported. Now “it is 95% Irish” and he is rightly proud of this and the fact that many local Clare people have an outlet for their work.
Dave pointed to soaps by Airimid from Kilfenora and those under the Moher name (made by an ex employee), local jams including some from the Clare Jam Co in Doolin. They have beautiful occasion cards by Lamblittle (see lamblittle on Insta), coffee by Anam, seaweed products by WASi, colourful pottery by Bridget Shelly, dairy free chocolate by Nobó, beeswax food wraps by octogenarian Mary Wall of Cutra Bees and much more.
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| Dave with a 5-year old wheel |
When you visit Aillwee, be prepared to spend some time there, not just on the shopping. You may of course visit the famous cave, part of the Burren Geo-Park. You may buy a combined ticket that will enable you see the Birds of Prey put through their paces in the arena. And if you want to interact closely with one of nature's top predators, then sign up for the Hawk Walk (you’ll need to do this in advance). This walk also includes admission to the cave and the Birds of Prey. More details on my August 31st Hawk Walk here.
Taste of the Week.
St Tola's Goats Cheese Ash Log
The St Tola Ash Log is a premium product so no wonder that it features in our Taste of the Week every now and then. It is in the spotlight again this week with a bit of enhancement from other local products.
I bought my cheese at Iago in Princes Street last Saturday morning. A few minutes later, in the English Market, I purchased a bunch of pears from Margo Ann of Roughty Foodie, having no idea at all that both would end up together on the same plate.
The coming together happened on Tuesday evening, following a day trip to Tipperary where I bought a bottle of the Highbank Organic Orchard (Apple) Syrup (the 3rd leg of the amalgamation) at the Apple Farm.
Back from Tipp, and after a satisfying lunch in Mikey Ryan's, we weren't exactly hungry in the early evening but were thinking of a little snack. Say no more. Sliced one of those delicious pears very thinly, sliced the cheese (not very easy to do, it's very crumbly) and layered them in a not very precise way. Then, gently squeezed on a few drops of the syrup and, bingo, we had a superlative Taste of the Week.
The three parts are easy to obtain around Cork city. You can get the Highbank syrup in both Roughty and Bradley's and probably in quite a few other outlets. Just realised there as I was typing that Sean Calder-Potts of Iago is a brother of Rod from Highbank! Small world, but a tasty one!
Taste of the Week
St Tola Goats Greek Style Cheese
To give it its full title our Taste of the Week is St Tola Gold with Newgrange Chili and Garlic Rapeseed oil. They also add peppers and dried thyme. This delicious new product is, like all their cheeses, produced from the pasteurised milk of their renowned herd of goats looked after on their Inagh farm in County Clare.
I spotted it on the extensive cheese offering from On The Pig's Back as detailed on the Neighbourfood site and got it in last week's delivery. So what would I do with it? Just thought of checking their website and they had a few answers: Great as a pizza topping, in salad or just straight from the jar!
As it turned out, pizza was on the menu. We made up the dough from the regular Gozney recipe and the first addition was the outstanding pizza sauce from the West Cork Food Company. Some Kalamata olives and semi sun-dried tomatoes were then added before the chunks of the St Tola were generously scattered around.
A few minutes later, we were tucking into a couple of superb pizzas, our Taste of the Week playing a starring role. We haven't made that many yet on the Gozney but, as novices, we were extremely happy with this one, with its combination of outstanding flavours, and the recipe will be repeated!
As it happened, there was still some left in theSt Tol jar and that went down well with a salad on the following day.
Ballymaloe Box illustrates dining “At Home” gets better and better.
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| Starter |
Dining “At Home” just keeps getting better and better. Our latest box, from Ballymaloe House, was just superb, from the beautiful presentation, to the quality of the produce, to the ease of putting it on the table once you had it At Home!
Ballymaloe by the way are just getting into their stride on this front as this is just their second “At Home”. The meal underlined the quality that the Ballymaloe kitchen, under Head Chef Dervilla, turns out day after day, course after course.
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| Beef Cheek |
The star factor began at Ballymaloe itself, the box coming decorated with freshly picked tulips, which, once home, were quickly found a role as a table decoration. No bother involved and no bother later on either as only the main course required any heating at all and here the meat and potatoes were each timed to come to perfection at the same time. Some “At Homes” are much trickier, more troublesome.
But first, the starter, featuring asparagus that was picked that morning by gardener Mags in the Ballymaloe walled garden along with the garlic and rocket leaves, was already cooked for us. Better give you the full description: First of our season’s Walled Garden Asparagus Salad, Wild Garlic, Lemon Olive Oil, Roast Grantstown Cherry Tomatoes and Pine Nuts. So we assembled this, according to instructions. Very easy, every simple and simply delicious along with some Ballymaloe bread and their rich Jersey Butter. A great start and that standard continued all through.
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| Ballymaloe Cider also on At Home Menu |
The mains: East Cork Beef Cheeks with Gremolata was the basic description. Much more than that though including Boulangéres & Thyme Potatoes, Bay Scented Carrots, Mushrooms & Tarragon and that garden salad (which we lightly tossed with their Honey & Muscatel Vinegar Dressing). Finally, the Beef was sprinkled with the Gremolata. Again, totally pleased with this one, perhaps the best beef cheeks we’ve had in a long time.
The additions here were crucial and most came in their own little glass jars. As did the dessert: Panna Cotta and Espresso Jelly with Pistachio Langues de Chat. A very impressive Panna Cotta with that jelly a star. Happy out after that, like the cat that got the cream!
We did, by the way, take decent gaps between the courses, savouring the earlier ones and looking forward to what was to come. Next was the the cheese course. And, of course, it featured an all Irish line-up: St Tola Goat (from County Clare), Coolea Cow (from hills above Ballyvourney, Co. Cork) and Crozier Blue Sheep (from the Grubb family, the same people that make Cashel blue in rural Tipperary), all accompanied by Ballymaloe Cheese Biscuits and Membrillo Paste (each perfect and perfectly suited to the plate).
And that wasn’t quite it. There was a little jar of truffles, though to be honest, they were kept to go with the mid-morning coffee on the following day!
The box also contained next week’s menu:
Ballycotton Day Boat Crab and Garden Asparagus with Lemon Aioli;
Ballymaloe White Bread and Farm Butter;
Free Range Duck Breast & Ballymaloe Pork Belly with Marsala Jus, Wild Garlic Mash;
Bay Scented Carrots & braised Garden Green Onion, Shanagarry Green salad with Rosé Vinegar & Honey Dressing.
Chocolate St Emilion with Cocoa Nib Nougatine & Cream.
Fancy that? Order online or ring 021 4652531.
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| Just about to tuck into dessert! |