Wednesday, January 6, 2016

S. Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 competition is live!




Phase One of the S. Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 competition is live. As of the 1st of January until the 31st of March all young chefs across the globe will have the opportunity to submit their applications together with their signature dish via www.finedininglovers.com. Fingers crossed we’ll have another successful year this year, as last year’s winner was our own, Mark Moriarty.


WORLDWIDE SEARCH BEGINS FOR S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF 2016
Following the resounding success of its first year, S.Pellegrino announces
its new search for the best Young Chef, the successor to the 2015 winner, Ireland’s Mark Moriarty


23rd November, 2015 – Following a majorly successful first year with more than 3,000 applications submitted, S.Pellegrino—an ambassador of Italian taste and fine dining around the globe—is proud to launch S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016, the global scouting project to find the best young chef in the world.

In 2015, Ireland’s Mark Moriarty made history as the inaugural winner of the competition, wowing the judges with his Celeriac Baked in Barley and Fermented Hay and Cured and Smoked Celeriac with Toasted Hay Tea.

The unique initiative, dividing the world into 20 areas and involving around 100 top chefs as jurors across the globe, 20 young chef finalists, 20 chef mentors and a stellar chefs jury, reflects S.Pellegrino’s commitment to supporting emerging talents. Applications will start on 1st Jan 2916 onwww.finedininglovers.com.

Irish chef Mark Moriarty, winner of the 2015 edition, commented on his positive experience: “I was delighted and honoured to be named S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2015. The journey was an unforgettable and one-off experience that I will never forget. I met so many fantastic chefs along the way and the title has made an incredible difference to my career as a whole”.

S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016 will feature a renewed panel of judges, the Seven Sages, which will be responsible for selecting the most talented young chef of the world. The jury will be composed of some of the world’s most renowned culinary masters, such as David Higgs, Carlo Cracco, Gaggan Anand, Elena Arzak, Mauro Colagreco, Wylie Dufresne and Roberta Sudbrack.

S.Pellegrino Young Chef is a global competition has several different different phases.

Phase One - Online Application
From the 1st of January 2016 until March 31st , all young chefs across the globe will have the opportunity to submit their application together with their signature dish in English viawww.finedininglovers.com, the online magazine for food enthusiasts proudly endorsed by S.Pellegrino and Acqua PannaApplying young chefs must be no older than 30 and are required to have at least one year of experience working in a restaurant as chefs, sous chefs or chefs de partie.

Phase Two – Selection of Regional Shortlist and Regional Winner…
All candidates will be divided into 20 regions* according to their geographic origin, and their submissions will be evaluated by ALMA, the world’s leading international educational and training centre for Italian Cuisine (www.alma.scuolacucina.it). Throughout the month of April, ALMA will select the first ten finalists for each region following five Golden Rules: ingredients, skills, genius, beauty, and message.

…and Regional Finals (Phase Three)
The selected ten finalists of the 20 geographical areas will then move on to the Local Finals, where live competitions will be held locally in each region from the May 1st to August 15th. During these events, the area finalists will have to cook their signature dishes for an exclusive regional jury composed of independent top chefs, who will taste the dishes and select the winner, following the five Golden Rules. 

The selected ten finalists for each market will move on to the Local Finals, where live competitions will be held locally in each region from 1st May until 15th August. During these events, the area finalists will have to cook their signature dishes for an exclusive regional jury composed of independent top chefs, who will taste the dishes and select the winner, following the five Golden Rules.  The 2016 UK & Ireland judging panel includes fantastic chefs, such as Claude Bosi, Ollie Dabbous, Ireland’s JP McMahon of Aniar in Galway and Ross Lewis of Chapter One in Dublin.

By the end of August 2016, the 20 Best Regional Young Chefs from each world region will be announced as the official finalists. Each finalist will be assigned a Mentor Chef: a member of the regional jury, who will provide the young chefs with suggestions to improve their signature dishes and to help them prepare for the global finals. The UK & Ireland mentor chef will be two Michelin starred chef and owner of Hibiscus, Claude Bosi.

Phase Four – Grand Finale Event
On October 13th 2016, all the Young Chef finalists will gather in Milan for the final phase, which will consist of a two-days intense cooking competition in front of the international panel of judges, the Seven Sages, that will award the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016.

The complete contest regulation and the application form will be available onwww.finedininglovers.com. The e-magazine will cover also each local and international phase of the project with exclusive contents, including the Live Grand Final in Milan.

Follow the competition via hashtag #SPYoungChef to never miss an update on the event. 









*THE 20 REGIONS
1.       Italy
2.       France
3.       Germany-Austria
4.       Switzerland
5.       Spain-Portugal
6.       UK-Ireland
7.       Russia/Baltics/CIS (ex Soviet Union)
8.       Scandinavia (Norway/Sweden/Finland/Denmark)
9.       East Europe
10.   BeNeLux
11.   Med Countries
12.   USA
13.   Canada
14.   Africa-Middle East
15.   Latin America - Caribbean
16.   Pacific (Australia/NZ/Pacific Islands)
17.   China
18.   Japan
19.  Northeast Asia (South Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Philippines)
20.   Southeast Asia (India, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Cambodia and Maldive)


THE PHASES OF THE PROJECT

PHASE ONE: ONLINE APPLICATION – January - March 2016
Any young chef in the world can submit their application together with their signature dish atwww.finedininglovers.comThe chefs must be no older than 30 and are required to have experience of at least one year working in a restaurant as a chef, sous chef or chef de partie. The complete list of requirements will be available on the website.

PHASE TWO: GLOBAL SHORTLIST – April 2016
All candidates will be divided according to their geographic origin, representing 20 regions total*. ALMA, the world’s leading international educational and training centre for Italian Cuisine (www.alma.scuolacucina.it), will then select from the online applications the first 10 finalists for each region, according to five Golden Rules: ingredients, skills, genius, beauty, and message.

1.                   INGREDIENTS: Successfully selecting the best of what the market has to offer with regards to quality, freshness and uniqueness.
2.                   SKILLS: Successfully handling and transforming raw materials into a finished dish that respects its original essence.
3.                   GENIUS: Successfully exploring inedited, inspiring, unexpected prospects/outlooks, connected with fine dining culture with a personal and contemporary style, while maintaining a perfect balance of tastes and shapes.
4.                   BEAUTY: Dish presentation is part of the charm.
5.                   MESSAGE: Successfully communicating a clear message through work and personal vision.

PHASE THREE: LOCAL CHALLENGES – May 1 – August 15, 2016
The 10 finalists of each area will have to compete during a local event: each region will have a jury composed by at least independent famous chefs that will taste the signature dishes of the finalists and choose the best one, always according to the 5 Golden Rules.  By the end of August the 20best young chefs from all the regions of the initiative will be announced.

FINAL PHASE: S.PELLEGRINO YOUNG CHEF FINAL  – October 13 – 15, 2016  
In October in Milan, S.Pellegrino will host the final event to celebrate the best young chefs who have competed. An international jury of famous chefs will award the S.Pellegrino Young Chef 2016. 

press release

Tuesday, January 5, 2016

Christine - The Pastry Queen. Let The Sweet Things Reign

Christine - The Pastry Queen
Where The Sweet Things Reign.
La Spoon, the new domain of Cork pastry queen Christine Girault, is in Cross Street, at the side of the Courthouse between Washington Street and Liberty Street. If you hurry, you may still get an example of her Galette des Rois.
Galette des Rois? I’ll let Raymond Blanc explain: This dessert is only served once a year and every child in France is waiting for 6 January (Epiphany). To honor the Kings who traveled thousands of miles to welcome our Saviour…maybe a white lie! It was probably organized by an opportunistic pâtissier who saw the opportunity of a huge market. It is a marvelous party dessert as it is the custom to hide two little figurines in the almond cream. The ones who find them will become the King and Queen for the day and of course have all of their wishes realised.  Two crowns would be perfectly befitting the winners. It is also a remarkably simple dessert as you can buy the puff pastry and the almond cream takes just a few minutes to make. - See more here
 Not too sure what figurines you'll find in Christine’s galette. But you will certainly find quality, the same quality that you’ll see and taste in all her pastries and cakes. Here, in Cross Street, you may linger over one (or two) with a cup of coffee, perhaps sharing or, if you’re on your own, reading a chapter or two from the cafe’s John Grisham library.
 Now that the Christmas rush is over - Christine was busy making Buche de Noel and Christmas Logs and then the Galettes - she'll be concentrating on the smaller treats: Pain aux raisins, macaroons, brownies, lemon cake slices, various apple tarts and cakes, caramel slices, and strawberry cake slices, madelines and lots of chocolate stuff (including pain aux chocolat) and more. And do watch out for the occasional surprises: Brioche and butter pudding, for example.
La Spoon
Cross Street
Cork
087 648 1452
Opening hours: 8.30 to 4.30, Monday to Friday.

Monday, January 4, 2016

Taste of the Week. Watermelon Rind Pickle

Taste of the Week

Watermelon Rind Pickle
Watermelon Rind Pickle on Cashel Blue
Hadn't heard of this Watermelon Rind Pickle until Michael Creedon recommended it to me in Bradley’s, North Main Street, before Christmas. I was chasing cheeses and he told me that this was a brilliant match with blue.

I have never had a bum tip from Michael and this proved to be another winner. I meant to try it with his Wicklow Blue but that was sold out. In the meantime, I won a Cheese hamper in a Sheridan's Competition and that included a large piece of Cashel Blue, one of my all time favourites. The match was brilliant, no doubt about it. And it also went well with 15 Fields, a mature cheddar that was also in the hamper. Lucky me!

The pickle is by made by Passion Preserved, based in Ballinderry (between Lisburn and Lough Neagh), the idea coming from the southern states of the USA. This Dixie Delicacy takes three days to make. Try it with pork chops! Also in cocktails, wrapped in bacon and baked, even with ice-cream. They make a whole range of preserves, including Rhubarb and Date, Kasundi (spicy Indian), Sunchoke Relish (another from the southern states) and more. Check them all out here or at Bradley’s.


Friday, January 1, 2016

Amuse Bouche

The bitter tang of quinine, that’s what I love about a cold gin and tonic. Tonic water should be by Schweppes and it should come out of a glass bottle, not a plastic one. These pre-mixed things aren’t right at all, but needs must. I know I shouldn’t be doing this, but I’ve been building up to it all day. It’s not just the anticipation of solitude though, it’s the excitement, the adrenaline. I’m buzzing, my skin is tingling. I’ve had a good day.

from The Girl on the Train by Paula Hawkins (2015)

Thursday, December 31, 2015

Amuse Bouche

Karine arrived over with a bag stuffed with goodies: two chicken salad rolls, four packets of Taytos, handfuls of chocolate bars, tobacco and Rizla, a two-litre bottle of Coke and, best of the lot, a bag of pick ‘n mix as big as a baby’s head.
Ryan said, ‘You absolute lasher, D’Arcy,’ and she rolled her eyes and said, ‘You’d better remember this when you’re rich and famous.

from The Glorious Heresies by Lisa McInerney (2105)

Twelve Great Food Days 2015

Twelve Great Food Days 2015
One Day’s Eating or Drinking or Both each Month!
Charcuterie by Krawczyk




Deep in Midleton distillery


April: From Power With Love. A Persian Dinner. Gorgeous. Generous
Highbank blossoms


June: All White on the Night. Al Fresco Dining in Cork City
Diamond in Dublin

August: Ballymaloe Garden Festival. 22-23 August 2015
Ballymaloe. Plants for sale.

September: My place of belonging is West Cork. Frank Krawczyk

October: Italian Night at Farmgate. Umbria & Valtellina Combine
Hoping for lunch at Longueville

December: Square Table Excellent2

Salmon at Bastion (Kinsale)


Wednesday, December 30, 2015

Three Fine Bubbles to Ring in the New Year.

Three Fine Bubbles
To Ring in the New Year

Champagne can be expensive, sometimes very expensive indeed. But there are some excellent alternatives out there at more attractive prices. And I’m not talking Cava or Prosecco here. The three below come from France, Germany and England. And one, the Saint Hilaire, was being made a hundred years before champagne and indeed I’ve read that Dom Perignon may well have learned a trick or two here. Don’t know how much truth is in that one.
Saint Hilaire Blanquette de Limoux brut 2010 (Languedoc-Roussillon, France), 12%, €23.35 Karwig Wines

This is France’s oldest sparkling wine, produced by the Methode Traditionnelle where it is naturally fermented in the bottle. It was first created by the Benedictine monks of the Abbey of Saint Hilaire over 450 years ago. Written records survive from 1531. The abbey is 25 miles south of Carcassonne.

The main grape in the blend is the Mauzac which is called Blanquette locally. This accounts for ninety per cent of the mix with Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay also used (up to a maximum of ten per cent). White fruits (peaches, apples) feature in the aromas. The palate is fresh and fruity, rather intense in flavour with no shortage of fine bubbles, persistently on the up. This is real bubbles. Think non-vintage champagne at a fraction of the price! Very Highly Recommended.

Furst von Metternich Riesling Sekt  (Rheingau, Germany), 12.5%, €23.50, Karwig Wines

Riesling, believe it or not, is the grape here, one hundred per cent, displaying its amazing versatility in a rather elegant wine, “a wine for special moments”. You’ll note the fountain of extremely fine bubbles, always a good sign, rising through the pale yellow colour. This is a serious sparkling wine, with a fresh fruitiness (peach and tangerine), and again Very Highly Recommended.

Not sure that Karwig Wines carry them but the producers also do a sparkling Chardonnay and a sparkling Rose made from Pinot Noir.

This German winery also has quite a history, over 300 years, though their sparkling is more recent, dating from the mid 19th century, the current brand from the 1920s. The Schloss Johannisberg headquarters was destroyed in a 1942 bombardment and rebuilt by 1965.

Dermot (left), pictured with wine writer John Wilson
and Simon Tyrell (right)

Wiston Estate Blancs de Blancs NV (South Downs, England), 12%, €53.00 Le Caveau

The Wiston Estate has little by way of wine history but the South of England has in a few decades carved out quite a niche for itself in the high end of sparkling wine and one of its leading men is Dermot Sugrue from County Limerick, the winemaker at Wiston. Amazingly, the first Wiston Vines were not planted until 2006 and the first grapes picked in 2008. There are now 16ha of vines planted on the chalk slopes (same chalk as Champagne).

I won this rather expensive bottle at a pre-Christmas dinner raffle and I am keeping it for the big night - not long now! I’ve tasted it before and it is a notably agreeable companion!  

This Blanc de Blancs NV has been voted the best in England and Dermot himself told us all about it. “It has a sense of richness that belies its youth. It is one hundred per cent Chardonnay, mostly 2011 plus reserve from 2010 and has spent 18 months on its lees.” It has indeed a delicious palate, a depth of flavour with excellent balance, bubbling all the way with finesse and elegance. Again, Very Highly Recommended. Happy New Year.

Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Taste of the Week. 15 Fields Cheese

Taste of the Week
15 Fields Cheese

Our Taste of the Week is the 15 Fields mature cheddar cheese. It is a cooperative effort between Eamonn Lonergan of Knockanore Cheese and Sheridan’s. The name refers to the fifteen fields of Eamonn’s West Waterford farm. The cheese is produced from “great raw milk” in Knockanore and is then transferred to the maturing room in the Sheridan’s warehouse in Meath.

Many of you will have noticed at various tastings that it is usually the young cheddar that gets the popular nod ahead of its mature cousin. Generally the reason given is people don't particularly like the usually very dry texture of the mature. Sheridan’s seem to have got over that hurdle with 15 Fields (matured for 14 months).

It is their first venture as affineurs and, while it is early days yet, they “are really happy with how it is going”. I tasted it over the Christmas (having won a hamper in a Sheridan's online competition!) and it is terrific, a lovely Cheddar, mature but not dry, full of great flavour and our Taste of the Week.

Sheridan's recent book Guide to Cheese classes cheddar as a Pressed Uncooked Cheese and you’ll also see it classed as a Scalded Hard Cheese. The group is large and varied and includes Farmhouse Gouda, Cantal, Raclette, Pyrenees, Tomme de Savoie (and other Tommes) plus most of the English county cheeses such as Red Leicester, Wensleydale, Cheshire and Double Gloucester.

They are particularly good for use in cooked dishes, the stronger flavoured ones giving the best results. Don't overcook or apply strong heat or the cheese will become stringy and leathery. They are also ideal for light meals and snacks, especially picnics and packed lunches. Versatile!
Visitors at Knockanore Farm

Sunday, December 27, 2015

Star Anise. Parfait. Toujours.

Star Anise
Parfait. Toujours.
Our last lunch before Christmas was perfect. It was in Star Anise which was very busy on Christmas Eve. But still time for the warmest of welcomes, the most engaging service and a meal that was impeccable and then too time taken to say goodbye and exchange Christmas greetings. Parfait. Toujours.

And if you’d like to experience the lunchtime magic of this sunny place (sunny even on a rainy day), then you’re in luck as they are open for lunch this week on Wednesday & Thursday. Bookings on 0214551635. And if you can't make lunch, their regular dinner service begins this very evening (Monday 28th).
It was a set menu (€32.00 for three courses with tea or coffee). But there was no shortage of choice, Five or six starters, mains and desserts. And, as always, some lovely wines to choose from, a glass of Merlot (Languedoc) for me, a glass of Sauvignon blanc (Loire) for CL.

Took us a while to settle on the starters from the six in the line-up. And it was the fish that won. I picked the Chowder that arrived with a crown of mussels and a terrific warming flavoursome combination of haddock, salmon and prawns, not to mention potato, in the bowl. CL was delighted too with her Crab Crumble. Crab dishes can often be fairly bland but the Star Anise version was that bit different and full of flavour.
And we continued with the marine theme through the main courses. Aside from the tempting duck Confit (terrific version here) and more, they had not one but two fish courses. Her Cod, with green beans and sweet potato wedges, and my Monkfish with potato croquettes, were both well cooked and beautifully presented, each a delight to dispatch. No shortage of veg either with much the same mix of crunchy carrot, diced parsnip and Romanesco on each plate.

There was even a special on the dessert list and that was brilliant: a Passionfruit Posset with some orange segments and an orange tuille. I went for the Pear “Belle Hélène” with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice-cream, another winner. So after all that joyous food and coffee we enjoyed the Joyeux Noel bises and headed out to the sunny street with a spin home near at hand. Happy day.
Star Anise
4 Bridge Street
Cork
021 4551635