Goldie's star shines on brightly in Cork City centre

 Goldie's star shines on brightly in Cork City 

The gold fish on Shandon (left)
and another "goldie",  the angel on
St Finn Barr's

The gold salmon at the top of Shandon is a landmark for visitors and natives in Cork City. The fish restaurant, named Goldie, in the flat of the city, is already in an elevated position when its comes to matters fish on the plate.

Goldie opened its doors in 2019 and quickly grew in popularity as Chef Aishling Moore’s ever varying menu drew high praise from the beginning. Goldie uses every bit of the fish and also uses only fresh fish, mostly landed by small boats in East Cork. For more on her methods, try her book Whole Catch.

Oyster Paté

You know you’re in the right place when your server chats and smiles and enthusiastically details what’s on offer. And we knew straightaway as we entered the upstairs room. Downstairs had seating also and you can see the kitchen there as well.

Our server was full of info as well as a courteous enthusiasm. We heard, as they spoke to the table next to us, that no, the salt cod was not salty and told us that the Brandade did feature corander but in a mild way, that if you wanted a “good feed” you would be as well to add a side (the Colcannon is a dish in itself!), that the chilli with the Megrim was not too hot and that any of the Killahora shorts would go well with the blue cheese.

Salted Cod tartlet

So we were well advised by the time we got to choose, the drinks beginning with a glass of the excellent Pecorini di Chieti, a great match with fish, and a glass of their top notch Angel Stout to pair with the oyster paté.

Oyster paté? You may well ask but that starter is one of the kind of surprise that await you here and indeed had the stout, made by their brewery across the road, is listed as an ingredient. The full description: Rossmore rock oyster paté, fennel and pickled dill, Angel Stout and apple treacle loaf. Meanwhile, across the table, the Salt Cod Brandade tartlet (with salsa verde and Churchfield tomatoes) was received with relish.

Sole

There was an appropriate relaxed pace to the service. And the 16 people in the room were all made to feel at home and got their food, and drinks, as required. No fuss, no rush.

I’ve seen quite a lot of Megrim (also called Cornish sole) on the French west coast but this may have been my first time eating it in Cork. iIt’s been on the Goldie menu for a few years and I did enjoy a Megrim Soup produced by Ciaran Scully who also featured a Witch fish on an evening meal  in the Bayview in Ballycotton.

Megrim

Goldie’s version: Pan roast Megrim, mange-tout, tomato and chilli butter sauce (25.5). Just one look and I knew it was good, and  then it was love at first bite. Happy tunes too from across the table as CL enjoyed her Pan Fried Lemon Sole, caramelised chicory chutney and café de Paris butter (28.50).

We were pacing ourselves to a degree and shared a serving of the excellent Sea Salt Shoestring Chips. We were glad we didn’t overdo it with the sides as two gorgeous desserts lay ahead.

Strawberry dessert

You just don’t ignore any chance to eat these super Bushby Strawberries and these came with a Macroom ricotta pavlova. I had a little chat with our server about which drink to take with the Wicklow Blue with slices of a superb fruit and seed loaf. I was pointed towards the The Niepoort Senior Tawny but I stuck with supporting local and enjoyed it with a glass of the Killahora Pom’o Port (finished in a Roe and Co whiskey cask).

Not a match made in heaven but in a foodie paradise. Go visit soon but be sure and book as it is a busy spot.

Wicklow Blue. That fruit and seed loaf was delicious.

By the way, while the menu is short, meat eaters and vegetarians will find something to suit. On our visit, Roast East Ferry chicken and a Summer Savoury Polenta (with grilled courgette and basil) were on the menu, along with the three fish dishes of Sole, Cod and Megrim.

Taste of the Week. Wicklow Blue Cheese

Taste of the Week

Wicklow Blue Cheese

Try this with a glass of Sauternes!

A delicate hand crafted creamy blue made using pasteurised cows milk and vegetarian rennet. This exceptional cheese has claimed gold, silver and bronze awards and has recently won Best Irish Cheese in the World, The World Cheese Awards Dublin 2008, alongside acclaim from food writers.

This is how the Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese describe their Wicklow Blue, our Taste of the Week. The soft cheese is deliciously creamy, slightly tangy and salty. Indeed, the blue element is moderate, not high and, quoting from the recent Sheridan’s book on cheese, may well provide a path into the category “for those who find the traditional blue cheeses a little too strong”.

This beautiful cheese is fresh and flavoursome and has won a string of awards, both at home and abroad, and is used by top chefs. Be sure and check out their other cheeses as well, particularly the companion Wicklow Bán.

I bought my Wicklow Blue in Bradley’s but Wicklow Farmhouse Cheeses are widely available, including in the main supermarkets. Check stockists here.

Pairing tip: Try it with a glass of Sauternes!

Taste of the Week. Watermelon Rind Pickle

Taste of the Week

Watermelon Rind Pickle

Watermelon Rind Pickle on Cashel Blue

Hadn't heard of this Watermelon Rind Pickle until Michael Creedon recommended it to me in Bradley’s, North Main Street, before Christmas. I was chasing cheeses and he told me that this was a brilliant match with blue.

I have never had a bum tip from Michael and this proved to be another winner. I meant to try it with his Wicklow Blue but that was sold out. In the meantime, I won a Cheese hamper in a Sheridan's Competition and that included a large piece of Cashel Blue, one of my all time favourites. The match was brilliant, no doubt about it. And it also went well with 15 Fields, a mature cheddar that was also in the hamper. Lucky me!

The pickle is by made by Passion Preserved, based in Ballinderry (between Lisburn and Lough Neagh), the idea coming from the southern states of the USA. This Dixie Delicacy takes three days to make. Try it with pork chops! Also in cocktails, wrapped in bacon and baked, even with ice-cream. They make a whole range of preserves, including Rhubarb and Date, Kasundi (spicy Indian), Sunchoke Relish (another from the southern states) and more. Check them all out here or at Bradley’s.

Quelle Fromage! Bradley’s Cheese Board

Quelle Fromage!

Bradley’s Cheese Board

It’s late in the evening and you are supposed to have the cheese board under control. You had this one job and blew it! Maybe not. In a flash of inspiration, you remember that Bradley’s in North Main Street (Cork) are open when the cheese specialists are closed. And, to make it even better, Bradley’s have quite a selection, including Watermelon Rind Pickle (by Passion Preserves) that you won't find everywhere!

You’ve been told not to overdo the number of cheeses, four has even been mentioned as a max. So okay, let's take a look at the shelves here. Maybe start with a soft cheese. It's okay to mix the milks. And you spot the Ardsallagh Goats Cheese from East Cork. Chalk it down. If you think your guests might prefer a cow’s cheese, then Cooleeney is your man (maybe I should say woman!).

Wheels of freshly made cheese at Lonergan's Knockanore farm

Now to pick a semi-soft cheese. The choice is large here and the quality is high. Pick from three West Cork classics: Durrus Og, young Gubbeen or Milleens. Not easy.

Now, we’re onto the harder cheeses and Bradley’s carry various offerings at this level from Knockanore, Bandon Vale and Carrigaline. You’ve been warned not to include flavoured cheeses so that cuts the choice a bit. How about a change of colour here, Leicester from Bandon Vale or Red Cheddar by West Waterford’s Knockanore. Then again, many would be thrilled with Hegarty’s Mature Cheddar.

Can’t have a cheese board without a blue onboard. Many good ones now in Ireland though my favourites are still the Tipperary pair of Cashel (cows) and Crozier (sheep). But neither is available at Bradley’s, but happy to pick the Wicklow Blue. The cow's milk cheese has the rind pierced and the Penicillium roqueforti begins its work. Sheridan’s new book says this type of hybrid blue, moist and soft, “is a great introduction for those who find the traditional blue cheeses a little too strong.”

You’ll also need some bread and crackers. Bradley’s are stockists for Arbutus and their sourdough is a favourite with cheese. No shortage of crackers here either. Among others, you’ll find the Sheridans range, the chunky Gubbeen Cheese Oatcakes and the Carrigaline Cheese Biscuits made by Seymour’s of Bandon.

Chutneys in Bradley’s include:

Sheridan's range (Chutney for Cheese, Onion Marmalade, Chutney for Everything,

Christmas Chutney).

A great range too from Passion Preserved, including a fab Watermelon Rind Pickle, which is great with blue cheese!

Now you have everything you need and the guests are due in about half an hour or so. Where’s the cheese? In the fridge? Get it out, quick - you need to serve it at room temperature. Just before the doorbell starts to ring, cut that cheese (avoids leaving the mess that can happen if everyone cuts their own bits). Cut yours into wedges and strips (making sure the rind is evenly distributed), taking your cue where practical from the original shape.

And remember, when the compliments start coming in, that you got all this in Bradley’s in something of an emergency. Next time, why not consider the North Main Street shop for your cheese even if there is no emergency.

I’ve confined the cheeseboard to Irish products but there are also some international stars available in the venerable shop, founded as a dairy in 1850, including classics such as Mont D’Or (we had fun with that last week…), Parmigiana Reggiana, Stilton, and Manchego.

And cheese is just one of the many Irish artisan products available here and that’s all before you ever hit the off-licence at the back where you have wines from all over the world and beers and spirits (many of them Irish) galore.

The Bradley’s Cheeseboard

1 - Ardsallagh Goats Cheese

2 - Gubbeen (young, unsmoked)

3- Knockanore Vintage Red Cheddar.

4- Wicklow Blue

Seymour’s of Bandon Cheese Biscuits.

Passion Preserved Watermelon Rind Pickle (great with the blue).

Sheridan’s Chutney for Cheese.

Lisanley Honey (also in Bradley’s) for drizzling.

A few grapes and thin slices of apple will also be appreciated.

We’ll leave the wine and the beer, maybe a port, up to you (no shortage of the drinks or indeed advice in Bradley’s)