Tuesday, February 17, 2015

French Film Fest. Food, Wine and Film at Ballymaloe

French Film Fest.
Food, Wine and Film at Ballymaloe
Natural Resistance


Organised by the Alliance Française de Cork, the 26th Cork French Film Festival showcases the best in current French cinema and is taking place in Cork from March 1 to March 8.

A real treat for lovers of food and wine is the screening of the documentary Natural Resistance, directed by Jonathan Nossiter, which follows a group of Italian winemakers dedicated to resisting the prevalent use of chemicals. 

A former sommelier Nossiter’s Mondovino, a documentary about the globalization of the wine industry, was nominated for the Palme D’Or in Cannes in 2004, one of only three documentaries ever nominated in the history of the festival. Nossiter didn't foresee returning to the topic until last summer when he found himself in Tuscany, seated with Italian winemakers dedicated to resisting the prevalent use of chemicals. Nossiter instinctively turned on his camera and continued to follow these subjects against the sun-kissed backdrop of Italian vineyards. 

The screening of Natural Resistance will be followed by a rustic Italian inspired banquet in the Ballymaloe Grainstore paired with 'natural wines' from the growers featured in the film. The wines will be supplied by Pascal Rossignol from Le Caveau while the film and wines will be introduced by Doug Wregg from Les Caves de Pyrenes. 

Tickets to Natural Resistance and the rustic inspired banquet in the Ballymaloe Grainstore are available on www.corkfrenchfilmfestival.com
Jonathan Nossiter

The Wines
Cork French Film Festival

Wines for showing at the film ‘Natural Resistance’, at The Grainstore at Ballymaloe
Friday 6th March 2015

With Pascal Rossignol of Le Caveau, The Specialist Wine Merchant, Kilkenny, Ireland and Doug Wregg of Les Caves des Pyrene, Artington, UK

Bubbly:
Coste Piane Prosecco NV
Casa Coste Piane is a tiny 6-ha, in Santo Stefano, heart of the Valdobbiadene area, owned and run by Loris Follador. For generations their wine had been sold in bulk, but since 1983 they decided to bottle the production themselves. The organically-run vineyards lie on slopes close to the cellar. The vines are on average 60 years old (some are pre-phylloxera!!) and their roots can grow up to 30-40 metres long. This Prosecco is a gem, it is one of the few made in the champenoise method wherein the second fermentation takes place in the bottle.
Harvest is usually between the last week of September and the first week of October.
In April the wine is bottled without the addition of yeast and sugar, subsequently the indigenous yeast contained in the wine starts a second spontaneous fermentation that lasts for approximately four weeks.
After this the wine spends a further four weeks ‘sur lie’. The process of “disgorgement” is not practised, therefore the yeasts are still present in the bottle… any haziness is entirely natural.
This is very Champagne-like, with great purity and frankness; the aromas are of apple, acacia flowers with an interesting mineral twist and subtle yeastiness.

White:
Stefano Bellotti Degli Ulivi ‘Cortese’ Vino Bianco 2013
Cascina Degli Ulivi in the words of owner Stefano Bellotti:
‘We are a farm with 20 ha of vineyards, cereals, animals, B&B and a restaurant using exclusively biodynamic and organic products, mainly coming from our farm.
We have been practising biodynamic agriculture for 30 years now and we consider the soil as a living organism belonging to the cycle of every living thing; we promote soils health and in turn the plants produce excellent fruit. The soil is nourished by green manure using pulses, cruciferous and graminaceous plants with up to 30 different species. Treatment sprays are limited to the use of sulphur and bordeaux mixture in very limited quantity (about 2 Kg of copper per hectare, per year) and, of course, biodynamic preparations. We strive to make wines that are the true expression of the vintage, the terroir and the personality of the person behind them. The grapes are harvested by hand in baskets; pressing is soft and fermentation takes place naturally, without using any oenological additives (yeasts, enzymes, fining agents). Wines ferment in big wooden barrels. We do not carry out any fining; we just lightly filter when bottling. The total sulphur content is low because we don’t add any. The yield per hectare averages 6 tons’
This little natural wine shows clean acacia flowers, hints of beeswax and mint. Mouth filling aromas of fresh white fruit, honey, with pronounced citrusy character. Very clean, neat flavours ending with crisp grip. Lovely wine
Will go with food like salads, seafood, fish, poultry and pork




Red:
Elena Pantaleoni La Stoppa Trebbiolo Rosso 2012
Barbera 60% Bonarda 40%
Elena Pantaleoni owns this wonderful 50-ha organically-tended estate where wild herbs grow freely between the rows and no chemical fertilizers, weed killers or pesticides are ever applied.
Trebbiolo Rosso is a natural wine matured in stainless steel tanks. The nose is fresh with cherry and red berries mingling with wilder notes. Lively and juicy, the palate bursts with sweet/sour morello cherries and hints of spices. In all, it is a lovely, fresh, lively and fruit-driven wine which is best enjoyed with food.
‘La Stoppa seem to delight in doing the unexpected: whites that aren’t white, that age and reds for drinking young. This is the first vintage of the Trebbiolo (named after a local river) that isn’t frizzante  although there is certainly a little bit of residual CO2.
Wild, earthy, yeastiness on the nose, incongruously like fresh vanilla pod with its earthy sweet-leathery notes.  Aromas of small berries, blackberries, myrtille. Dryish on palate, which  is meaty, earthy, spicy. Youthful and vibrant with a slight fizz on the tongue.
Cries out for a big plate of charcuterie and cheese and some top class air-dried hams.
  
Orange:
Orange wines, or amber wines as they are often called are actually white wines produced more like reds – with prolonged contact with the grape skins, resulting in a deeper colour from the pigments found in grape skins. Rather than being orange, they are actually more a deep amber or tawny colour and on the palate possess the texture, body and tannins of red wines with the fruit and minerality of white wines
Giulio Armani Dinavolino 2012
25% each of Malvasia di Candia Aromatica, Marsanne, Ortrugo, and an as-yet unidentified variety from the lower slopes of the vineyard
Giulio Armani is the winemaker at La Stoppa (Emilia Romagna). This wine comes from his own  biodynamically tended vineyards. Having reached perfect ripeness, the grapes are hand-harvested and left to macerate with their skins for 7 to 10 weeks, giving the wine wonderful complexity, structure, little tannins and its light orange colour.
Neither filtered nor fined, the slightly cloudy appearance leads to a floral nose with apple, orange flowers, orange skins and pear hints. The palate is richly layered and intense, with gorgeous apple and honeyed flavour wrapped in impeccable acidity and minerality.
Great with most foods salads, fish, white meat & most cheeses


For afterwards, we will have two little organic Sicilians Ciello rosso and bianco -Inexpensive, but beautifully made and full of authenticity!

Cantine Rallo, Ciello Bianco ‘Catarratto’ Terre Siciliane IGP
Made from organic grapes, fragrant and crisp, Ciello Bianco Catarratto is amazingly fresh and vibrant, delicate flavours of white fruit, hints of peach and lemon zest mid palate and soft notes of marzipan on its bright finish.

Cantine Rallo, Ciello Rosso ‘Nero d’Avola’ Terre Siciliane IGP

Made from organic grapes Ciello Rosso Nero d’Avola has freshness and energy, dark red colour, hints of black plum, coffee and chocolate on the nose, pleasant spiciness in the mouth with smooth dark fruit flavours
The dynamic Vesco family took over the winery 10 years ago and have since revolutionised the viticultural practices and invested heavily in cutting edge technology for the winery and bottling line. Their hundred hectares of organic vineyards are located high up in the hills above Alcamo.
The wines are all certified organic and planted on south-east facing slopes on sandy soils 150 – 300m above sea level. The climate is clearly suited for producing the best quality grapes.
The vineyards in three main sites: Alcamo for Catarratto and Nero d’Avola; Marsala for Grillo and Pantelleria for the Zibbibo which that produces their delightful Passito di Pantelleria. The grapes tend to be picked earlier in the year than many of their neighbours which produces their customary bright, fresh style of wine.
The results are evident in the fragrant, crisp Catarratto and perfumed, fresh Nero d’Avola. These wines are a million miles from the overripe styles made by many of their peers. Night harvesting and modern temperature controlled fermentations result in bright, fresh, modern wines.
Fragrant and crisp, Ciello Bianco Catarratto is amazingly fresh and vibrant, delicate flavours of white fruit, hints of peach and lemon zest mid palate and soft notes of marzipan on its bright finish.


Monday, February 16, 2015

Cloughjordan Cookery School. Layers of Knowledge.

Cloughjordan Cookery School

Layers of Knowledge

Puff Pastry is widely available and everyone, including top chefs, goes out and buys it. Why teach the art of making it? Why make it at all?

The answer is understanding. The extra knowledge will enhance your pastry skills. It’s a bit like photography. Why bother to learn about aperture, shutter speed, ISO, when a digital automatic will do it all (well, 90 per cent) for you? Again the answer is knowledge and gaining the understanding to do that awkward 10 per cent!

Knowledge and understanding. And that’s what the Cloughjordan Cookery School and Colleen teach. The knowledge is here and they pass it on in a gorgeous 400 year old farmhouse in North Tipperary (Nenagh to the west, Roscrea to the east) and very near to the Offaly border with Birr fairly close, right in the middle of Ireland. Your hosts are Sarah (founder of the cookery school and still paying a leading role there) and husband Peter Baker.
Top: croissants, before and after.
Middle: blind baking and Salted Caramel Chocolate Tart.
Bottom: lots of butter and Colleen with yours truly

And if you are there for a course, or B & B, or a wedding, the food will be local. And will also be very good, if our breakfast is anything to go by. They grow lots of fresh fruit and vegetables in their walled garden, and what the garden doesn't provide, they source from artisan producers, the local butcher and local farmers.


During a small break and after sampling the delicious croissants, the course participants went out to the nearby muddy paddock to see four newly arrival bonhams (piglets). Immediately, the curious crew arrived, the quartet dashed off to the far end and hid behind a row of trees. They had every right to be suspicious. Must have heard the oohs and ahs as we tucked into the tasty sausages a few hours earlier.
The course was entitled “Sweet Things” and the sub headings were Puff Pastry, Salted Caramel Chocolate Tart, Choux Pastry, Croissants, and Italian Biscuits. Colleen took us through the lessons and handed out a few general tips as well. Knife handling skills were illustrated with the hint “fold your fingers back while chopping, that way you won’t lose a finger-tip!” and she recommended using Doves Farm Yeast which is widely available; check here .


Top: the Cookery School.
Bottom: Colleen, big welcome (yes, tail is wagging) and shy little piggies.

There was an immediate practical result from our Puff Pastry efforts as we each ended up with at least two tarts, one topped with caramelized red onions (from the garden) and goats cheese or Brie, the other with leeks and mushroom mixed with crème fraîche and cream. And this was our tasty lunch! Our chocolate tart was also ready at this point but in most cases we had been well satisfied by the savoury tarts and the chocolate came home with us along with a Glenisk Goody Bag!


Courses generally start about 10.00am and finish around two o’clock. And, like us, quite a few of the participants stayed at the house on the previous night. And from what I gathered, we all slept well in comfortable beds and bedrooms. We had a meal at the nearby Fairway Bar and Orchards Restaurant (in Kilruane) before coming back to the sitting room where, in front of a warm stove, I sipped a lovely glass of Bordeaux before enjoying meeting and chatting with other guests as they came in from various parts of the country.
It is a friendly place and that starts with the Baker family themselves. If you are traveling in the area, do keep it in mind for B&B which they offer from April to October. Looks like a very enjoyable experience indeed. For more info on Cloughjordan weddings, B&B, and cookery courses, see the excellent website where the videos will give you a hint of the warm welcome that awaits.



Sunday, February 15, 2015

Amuse Bouche

A guest who came to lunch on the second or third day of the presidency remembers an array of cutlery which would do justice to a state banquet, and a staff member standing behind each chair - and that was in response to Mary’s request for soup and sandwiches. ‘The food, the style of catering was over-elaborate,’ she says. ‘We kept simplifying it’

from Mary Robinson by Olivia O’Leary & Helen Burke

Friday, February 13, 2015

Chilling Out at Greene’s. Supper Club Is Launched

Chilling Out at Greene’s
Supper Club Is Launched

Some very surprised expressions on diners’ face in Greene’s Restaurant  last night as the McCurtain Street venue launched their Supper Club. The surprise came when customers put the Tomato and Parmesan Cheese straight into their mouths after it came out of Chef Bryan's McCarthy's liquid nitrogen container. But that pained surprise soon turned to pleasure as the coolness vanished and the flavours spread around the palate.

The supper club was up and running and manager Arthur Little said it would be run on a monthly basis. He hinted it won't always be a dinner and wine matching event. He suggested they might do a little mushroom foraging, maybe seaweed foraging, and then come back and eat the bounty. “It is your Supper Club too,” he told the packed restaurant. “We are open to suggestions, and looking for ideas from customers”.

The wines for the event came La Bascula and they were ably represented by ED Adams MW. La Bascula works with vineyards and producers around Spain and Ed takes an active part as winemaker.

But it was a wine that they didn't make that he praised most highly on the night and that was the Casta Diva Muscatel 2011. “This is very special,’ he said. “El Bulli had it on their own label and we are delighted to be able to sell it. It comes from near Benidorm. Aromas of orange and almonds and it is very fresh, a very lovely natural pure wine. Take it with any blue cheese and you have a match made in heaven.”
Chef Bryan and Manager Arthur keeping an eye on the Liquid Nitrogen.
It was served with the chocolate course but we kept a sip for the cheese board, all top notch Irish cheese, and it did indeed go very well with the Cashel BLue. The wines are distributed in Ireland by Tindal's who had Damien Archer-Good on hand.

Another highlight for me was the Heights of the Charge Rueda with two of my favorites grapes, Verdejo (70%) and Viura, in the gorgeous blend. Indeed, all the matches were spot on right down to the lovely drop of Dow’s Nirvana Port that we finished on.

The multi-course meal was, as you’d have expected, packed with good things from Bryan McCarthy and his great team. Many of you will know of his Pork Belly, of his Feather Blade, and his chocolate desserts. Wasn't that Miso Glazed Rump Cap, on the same plate as the beef, delicious?

Hard to say but I think the highlight was the Marinated Tuna, a magnificent treatment of that big fish. And the good news is that you’ll be seeing it on the menu in the immediate future. So do watch out for it and for future Supper Club Events. You may join the Supper Club, for free.

The Bascula team tasting Viura and Verdejo.
On the right, Pork Belly and, bottom, the very cold Tomato & Cheese.
Wine Tasting Dinner

Cava on arrival.

Tomato, Parmesan cheese.

Local Rare Breed Pork Belly, Black Pudding.
Apple, cider, crackling popcorn.
with Turret Fields Monastrell (75%), Syrah, 2012

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Dashi custards, Marinated Tuna.
Picked seaweed, Soya Jelly.
with Heights of the Charge Rueda, 2012.

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Passion Fruit Sorbet, Lychee Foam.

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Duo of Miso Glazed Rump Cap and Feather Blade.
Carrot, onion, Leek ash, Black Cabbage, Kale.
with the Charge Tempranillo 975%) and Garnacha, 2011.

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Star Anise, White Chocolate, Mandarin confit.
Epsom of Creme Catalan.

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Chocolate Praline Creme Tart.
Salt caramel, Vanilla ice-cream
(made with Alto El Sol & Ivorian Single Estate Barrie chocolate)
with Casta Diva Muscatel 2011.

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Cheese Board
with Dow's Nirvana Port.






Thursday, February 12, 2015

Cully & Sully’s Heart Soup. Helping Ireland’s Little Hearts

Cully & Sully’s Heart Soup

Helping Ireland’s Little Hearts


You’ve got to love this: two good things in the one package from Cully & Sully.

First - they've come up with a Magic Bean Soup. It is good for your heart.

Second - it is good for someone else too. Cully & Sully have pledged a donation from sales of this limited edition to the Heart Children Ireland charity, a support group for parents and families of children with a Congenital Heart Disorder.

The Limited Edition Soup has just launched ahead of Valentine’s Day with Cully and Sully hoping, in this traditional time of love, to raise awareness of the charity who do their work nationwide with no government funding. So keep an eye open over the next while for the distinctive black and red package and spread the love!

And the soup? Well I’ve just had a sample and it is red, robust and warm, perfect for these end of winter days. Great flavours and texture and packed with healthy beans (cannellini and butter) in a tasty tomato broth.

So there you are, two good reasons to try this top notch soup.
First - you’ll enjoy the soup, and so will your heart.
Two - you’ll also enjoy helping Ireland’s little bravehearts.

Taste of the Week. Comeragh Mountain Lamb

Taste of the Week
Comeragh Mountain Lamb


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No doubt about this one, Taste of the Week is Comeragh Mountain Lamb. Had not tried it before but you’ll know when you have it as the texture is great and the flavours are amazing, all those mountains herbs and grasses coming through to the pleasantly surprised palate. Well worth trying to get your hands on this unique meat. Won't be easy though as there is not that much of  it available and the top chefs are all chasing it. More info, including outlets and online purchase info, here.

Wednesday, February 11, 2015

The West’s Awake. Find it Fresh in Bradley’s

The  West’s Awake.

Find it Fresh in Bradley’s

Opening day in Bradley's
Fresh from West Cork is back in town and you’ll find it installed in Bradley’s, North Main Street. Walter, familiar to many of you from his stint last year in the English Market, fronts the operation and is as enthusiastic as ever.

And why wouldn't he be? He has some great produce in Bradley's; all the familiar names are there including Irish Atlantic Sea Salt, Rosscarbery Recipes, Gubbeen, Ummera, Glenilen, Sally Barnes (he especially recommends her smoked mackerel, “a big seller”), West Cork Pies, Culture Foods (the Sauerkraut people, who are now exporting) and more.

June Kingston’s Soda Wheaten loaf is a best seller and there are tasty apple tarts from the Walshes of Caheragh (near Drimoleague). And don't forget the Loughbeg Tea Brack and be sure to get some Glenilen clotted cream to go with that! Then you have yogurts and Lemon Labneh from McCarthy’s Dairy not to mention the many fish products from Union Hall including Smoked Mackerel Paté and Smoked Salmon Paté.

No shortage of honey and jam. The honey comes from Noel and Patricia Love of Knockeen (Skibbereen) while jams are supplied by Kathleen McCarthy of Drimoleague and Eithne McCarthy from Skibbereen. And watch out too for the Loughbeg chutneys, quite a few but the star is the Yellow Zucchini Relish which was adored by a bunch of “nine Michelin chefs from London when they sampled it at the English Market last year”.

And the good news is that you can get these six days a week, from 8.00am to 9.30pm! And more good news. If you like your vegetables fresh (and who doesn't?), Colm O’Regan of Horizon Farms will be making three deliveries a week to North Main Street.

And from next Friday, you'll be able to get raw pressed juice here: carrot, beetroot and a vegetable and fruit blend! “And the week after that, we'll have mini-meals,” he said. I looked puzzled! “Especially for toddlers,” he clarified. So there you are. Walter and Fresh from West Cork will feed you all, big and small.


Tuesday, February 10, 2015

Carignan, Mourvèdre and Bourboulenc. Not Just Good Blenders!

Carignan, Mourvèdre and Bourboulenc.
Not Just Good Blenders!


Carignan, Mourvèdre and Bourboulenc are not normally let out on their own, not in Ireland.
The three grapes are best known for their role in blends, in the Rhone, Provence and Languedoc. Mourvèdre is probably the most familiar in Ireland as it is the “M” in the GSM wines of the Rhone where G is Grenache and S stands for Syrah. All three come from the Languedoc/Roussillon area; if you’re a rugby fan, think Narbonne, Perpignan and south to the Pyrenees.


The SuperValu French Wine sale that starts tomorrow (Feb 12th) gives us the chance to see the three on a solo run and, at ten euro or less per bottle, it is an opportunity worth taking for those looking to see what else is out there aside from the more common Chardonnay and Merlot.

An old vineyard tractor pictured near Narbonne a few years ago.


Domaine De Simonet Bourboulenc 2013, 13.5%, €10.00 SuperValu from Feb 12th.

Bourboulenc is an ancient white grape and, according to the Hugh Johnson Handbook, “makes some of the Midi’s best wines”.

This one, from the Midi, has refreshing white fruit flavours, pear rather than apple, citrus also included and a slight smokiness (a characteristic of the grape, I’ve read); there is a vibrant mouthfeel and a decent finish as well. Nice acidity here too and I think it might go well with a half dozen oysters! Highly Recommended.

Claude Vialade Carignan Vieilles Vignes 2013, Cotes Catalanes IGP, 13.5%, €10.00 SuperValu from Feb 12th.

Colour here is dark red and there are dark fruit aromas. On the palate it is fruity and vibrant, not unlike the Mourvèdre but with a slightly heavier body and slightly stronger flavours. It has an excellent finish. It is recommended for meats and cheese. I tried it with a creamy Durrus Og and they do get on! While rarely seen here on its own, Carignan is widely grown in the South of France and elsewhere around the world, including Chile where it has a long history. Highly Recommended.

Domaine De La Condamine l'Eveque Mourvèdre Cotes de Thongue IGB 2012 - €9.00 SuperValu from Feb 12th

A dark red wine with dark fruit aromas. Stewed dark fruit flavours, quite intense, some spice also; very pleasant overall and a half decent finish as well. Lovely rich warm wine and great value. They say this, with its screw cap closure, is suitable for early drinking, so don't be holding on to it! Highly recommended.


Monday, February 9, 2015

Midleton Distillery Tour. Happy Angels Hover Over 1.2m Casks

Midleton Distillery Tour
Happy Angels Hover Over 1.2m Casks

In Warehouse 39B
“This is the biggest Pot Still in the world,” said David McCabe, our guide on a tour of Midleton Distillery. The copper giant that he showed us in the old distillery has a capacity 143,872 litres and is no longer in use. Copper has some key properties that make it highly suitable for the task: it is easy to shape, has good conductivity and removes impurities.

In the new distillery, Midleton has the biggest operating stills in the world. And the three copper giants that we saw are due to be joined by another three later in the year. It is amazing to see these three in action, their contribution coming after the milling, the mashing and the fermenting.

And when they have their work done, the triple distillation (most Scotch whisky is distilled twice), the infant whiskey is piped out to holding tanks before being moved again to mature in casks, 1.2 million of them at last count! The giant warehouses make quite a “town”. For more details on how whiskey is made, and we are talking Irish here, the one with the “e”, see here.
The old distillery
Then anothering mind-boggling figure as we sipped from 24 year old and 17 year old whiskeys in one of the warehouses. The evaporation of the alcohol into the air, known in many cultures as the “angels share”,  amounts to some 24,500 bottles of Jameson per annum! Happy angels but there's some harmless pollution, a dark dust that settles on the warehouses. I have also seen it at the Remy Martin distillery in Cognac; hard to miss it there, as the buildings are white.

The difference between our tastings was not just the age factor. The 24 year old had been matured in bourbon casks while the 17 year was from a sherry cask so there was a colour and flavour difference as well.

The colour difference is easily seen at the Irish Distillers Pernod Ricard Whiskey Academy, the pride and joy of David, our Whiskey Ambassador. It is based in a restored building in the old distillery. Back to figures briefly. The old distillery take up about 12 acres while the new one is ten times larger.
The Academy class-room is state of the art, though David also uses the old chalk from time to time too to illustrate a point. Pupils are taken through the process, step by step, and get the opportunity to blend their own whiskey which they can take home with them.

But the theory lessons are short and you won't be bogged down with detail. In between, you are taken out and about on the site to see the practical side of the whisky making business. Check out those Pot Stills. Hands on. See and taste. Lots to see. You’ll notice the Americans and Spaniards put their bungs on the side of the cask, the Irish on the top because the casks are stored in an upright position here.

Since opening its doors in February 2013, the Irish Whiskey Academy has become the dedicated whiskey institute of Irish Distillers Pernod Ricard, hosting courses that focus on the production and heritage of Irish whiskey produced at Midleton. It started off to train the distillery sales force but now there are courses to suit everyone and many students come from abroad. Check it out here  and give yourself a present!

Guess which came from the sherry cask!
One type of whiskey, the Single Pot Still, is the real Irish. This spirit almost died a death, for many reasons, but is now on the up and up.  Check the story of this premium product out here where you’ll read that Jameson is not a Single Pot Still but Redbreast is. 

If you join the Stillhouse (no fee), you’ll get special offers from time to time. I just ordered one bottle of a limited edition of Mano a Lámh, a Redbreast made in special sherry casks. But you’d better act quickly as I believe there are not very many left! Must say though, aside from the odd offer, there is a wealth of information on the site and it is well worth a look.


After that, why not take a trip to Midleton to take the distillery tour. Details here.

Cheers. David and Yours Truly,
after breaking in to the 24 year old!
Evidence is evident!


Saturday, February 7, 2015

Amuse Bouche

Foccacha is much the same as Italian focaccia, a bit like a croque-monsieur, a toasted ham and cheese sandwich, only made with pizza dough. Inside you put whatever you feel like. And you serve it hot. This evening it was raw ham and mozzarella. Just like every day over the three years since Toinou had died, she’d got a meal together for me. She had just turned seventy and she liked cooking. But she needed a man to cook for. I was her man. And I loved it. I got into the boat, with the foccacha and a bottle of white Cassis - a ‘91 Clos Boudard - beside me.

from One Helluva Mess by Jean-Claude Izzo

Friday, February 6, 2015

Greene’s Supper Club Launch. No Stone Unturned!

Greene’s Supper Club Launch

No Stone Unturned!
Chef Bryan and one of his recent dishes
Bryan McCarthy, Head Chef at Greene’s, is eagerly looking forward to the launch of the McCurtain Street restaurant’s Supper Club series next Thursday evening. And his menu (below) has me and and others anticipating the event where the wines will be supplied by Tindal’s.

Arthur Little, General Manager of Greene's and Hotel Isaac: “The concept behind Greene’s Supper Club is to introduce our members to some of the new trends in food today, be it foraging or using ocean vegetables; different cuts of meat or even going back to the ‘Ark of Food’ and introducing traditional favourites.   We will bring experts in a variety of food related areas to meet, discuss and enjoy what Greene’s has to offer”.

The guest of honour on Thursday will be the master winemaker Ed Adams from La Båscula wines in Rioja, an Englishman who is working closely with the winemaker. They have vineyards in both the north and south of Spain so you can expect a variety of exciting wines and indeed some exciting names such as Catalan Eagle, Heights of the Charge Rueda, Turret Fields Monastrell/ Syrah and No Stone Unturned with the beef. And the something sweet with the pud will be Casta Diva muscatel.

To book, please call 021 455 2279
For bookings by email please send your enquiry to greenes@isaacs.ie
Concentration from  master winemaker Ed Adams
Wine Tasting Dinner
€59.00

Prosecco or Cava on arrival




Amuse Bouche
Liquid Nitrogen Tomato, Black Olive, Parmesan Cheese


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Local Rare Breed Pork, Black Pudding & Seared Scallop
Apple, Cider, Crackling Popcorn, Celeriac Slaw


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Champagne Sorbet, Lychee Foam, Lemon Gin, Meringue


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Duo of Beef Short Rib & Fillet Steak (C)  
Paris Brown Mushroom, Waterfall farm Spinach, Celeriac Puree, Fondant Potato, 60/60 Hens Egg

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Chocolate Praline Crème Tart  
Hazelnut, Praline Ice Cream, Chocolate Textures
(Made with Alto El Sol & Ivorian Inaya Single Estate Cocoa Barrie Chocolate)


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Tea or Coffee

Cheese Plate & Port