Sunday, May 5, 2013

Today in the Big Shed at Ballymaloe LitFest

Today in the Big Shed at Ballymaloe
 Literary Festival of Food and Wine 

Clockwise from top left: Cooper demo; John McDonnell (Riesling tasting);
L. Mulligan Grocer Whiskey and Cheese pairing; Bradger & Dodo new package;
cameo performance by Susan Boyle; Maurice O'Mahony of
Wine Alliance with Wines and Ports of the Duoro;
Leslie Williams on Sherry;
and Pulled Pork Bap from Woodside.

Neven Maguire at Ballymaloe

A People's Person!

I'm very much a people's person
First boy in school to do home economics
Porridge, with honey, cream and Irish Whiskey, is the most popular dish in the restaurant
Food and GIY go hand in hand
Modern Irish now? Local seasonal ingredients in  different combinations with different techniques...not a mish mash....balance...I like to add Asian influences...don't over-complicate it...
Stars not a priority. Happy with Michelin tyres on my car...stars can be a double edged sword.
Look after your key people....respect!

Neven, a terrific supporter of Irish produce (not to mention a host of good causes), is rightly proud of what he has done in that small village of Blacklion in Cavan. He isn't finished yet. Far from it. Next step is to set up a cookery school.
Well done Neven. We are proud to have you. Enjoy your day off today!


Saturday, May 4, 2013

Ballymaloe LitFest

Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine
Clockwise from top left: Treats Petit; Bill Casey; Anthony Cresswell of Ummera;
Nevin's cheesecake; Neven Maguire; Graffiti in the shed; Lolo's Breton Crepes;
and Tony Farrell's bowl.
Terrific day in Ballymaloe. So much to see and do, to eat and drink and sample. Lots for the kids as well. And it all goes ahead again tomorrow and Monday. Get the details here

Friday, May 3, 2013

The Wine Geese Return in Style!


“The Return of The Wine Geese” Black Tie banquet will bring together wines with an Irish heritage from around the globe with wonderful food in the beautiful Fleming's Restaurant.  
The full line-up of wines that will feature on the night will follow shortly.  Tickets are available from O’Donovans Off Licence Head Office only and are €100. 
Tickets are limited to 4 per booking and are must be pre-paid.  Contact Deirdre or Rose on 021-4296060 for details.

Bringing The Wine Geese Home

Gala Banquest at Flemings Restaurant, Cork City

Saturday 18th May 2013

7.30pm Drinks Reception ~ 8.00pm Seated for Dinner


Pate de Foie Gras
Pate of Foie Gras, served with its own jelly
Tossed leaf salad and melba toast
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Conift de Voalille , wonton de Canard
Home smoked chicken ballotine and wonton of duck confit
Served with a compot of fresh orange
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Paupiette de sole Limande
Paupiette of sole served with pink grapefruit , served with a light saffron sauce
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Sorbet de champagne
Champagne sorbet served with passion fruit and a sweet balsamic glaze
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Longe D’agneau roti
Roast Loin of Lamb , ragout of sweetbread and a light rosemary”jus”
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Trio de Fromage
Tipperary mature Cashel Blue
West Cork Mileens
Cork Hegary’s cheddar
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Dessert
Tart au Citron, vanilla ice-cream and marinated strawberries
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Cafe




This Sauvignon Blanc is a Sophisticated Beauty

Fleur McCree (centre) at L'Atitude
with Beverly (left) and Emma.

Sophisticated Beauty


Little Beauty Sauvignon Blanc Limited Edition 2010, Marlborough (New Zealand), 13.5%, €17.99-18.99,  stockists


Aromatic, with a pale yellow colour, this wine is, they say, “a fine example of an intense and mouth-watering single vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc”.

And it is all that, and a little bit more sophisticated than some of its neighbours. Maybe that is why this fine and elegant wine is holding top spot as the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc at London’s Claridge Hotel. It is also a Gold Medal winner at the Mundus Vini International Wine Awards.

So grab a bottle or two while you can as this is only ever going to be available as a limited release. In fact, so limited “my annual production volume represents a tiny 0.0005% of total market share in the UK”. Very Highly Recommended.

Fleur McCree is the face of Little Beauty wine in these parts and she will be here on Thursday May 16th in Latitude 51 (No. 1, Union Quay) as part of the ongoing WineGeese series.

Fleur will retrace her family steps back to Cork in a presentation and tasting of her wines in association with Maurice O’Mahony of Wine Alliance. Varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. Check with the venue ((021) 239 0219) for tickets details.

Thursday, May 2, 2013

Cork French Food and Wine Festival

Cork French Food and Wine Festival

The Cork French Food and Wine Festival returns to Cork this May being hosted in St Patrick's Woolen Mills, Douglas, Cork. 

The three day event is set to be an interesting mix of the Best of French Cuisine, French wines with French cabaret and Music and add a certain 'je ne sais quoi' at the Douglas venue. It also includes a French Food trail in Cork City as Cork Favourite restaurants are including a French dish on their menus. 

Thursday 9th at 7pm: BANQUET A LA FRANCAISE.
A Suprise seven courses menu prepared by chef Michael Flemings of Flemings restaurant. - Price = 50€ - Bookings at 021-4617832 

Friday 10th from 5pm : MARCHE NOCTURNE and WINE FAIR.
 - Free entry 
At 9pm : Music and dance with 'Two Time polka' - Tickets = 10€ 

Saturday 11th from 11am to 18.00. : 
C'est La fete!! : Festival day, with French dishes prepared by Cork restaurants, Wine Fair, Pigs on the Spit,... And many activities for Kids and Adults organised by Frankfield Petanque Club, Artlink, Art in the park,, Enfants Francophones de Cork, Eurochild.. and many more... 

Saturday Night from 8pm:
 Cabaret Night with French Singer Caroline Moreau. 
Tickets = 16 € including a glass of wine. (See www.frenchfoodfestival.com

For more info, see www.frenchfoodfestival.com and our facebook page at Cork french food and wine festival. 

Food and Drink Spotting: Castle Hotel a winner!


Food and Drink Spotting

Castle Hotel & Leisure Centre Scoops  ‘Best Customer Service’ Award
The boutique 4 * Castle Hotel in Macroom, Co. Cork beat off stiff competition and was voted best ‘customer service’ hotel in Munster by the Restaurant Association of Ireland (RAI) in its annual restaurant awards.

The prestigious awards which are the largest in the country are run on an annual basis by the Restaurant Association of Ireland (RAI) and are highly sought after by industry professionals. The ‘best customer service’ award recognises establishments who go beyond the call of duty in a consistent and industry appropriate manner.
 Owner, Don Buckley said “The Irish Restaurant Awards are renowned for recognising and rewarding achievement and excellence within the Restaurant and Hospitality industry. It is a lovely surprise and boost for management and staff. It will spur us on in continuing to exceed customer expectations- after all customer is king!”
The Castle Hotel is no stranger to awards was recently ranked 12th within the top twenty five hotels in Ireland in the “customer service” hotel award category by the world’s largest travel community, Trip Advisor. Other accolades include a Certificate of Excellence for 2011 and securing best “bargain” and “family” hotel in 2012.
 Industry category nominations will be judged by the National Awards Academy in late May and independently assessed by KPMG. County winners will then go on to compete for the Regional and All Ireland title which will be announced in the Burlington Hotel on 10th June 2013.

Laurenz V Charming Takes Generation Grϋner Title
At Exclusive Blind Tasting Event In Dublin


Laurenz V Charming has been crowned number one GrÏ‹ner Veltliner at a recent ‘Generation GrÏ‹ner’ blind tasting event held at the Shelbourne Hotel.

Organised by Dieter HÏ‹bler and Laurenz Maria Moser, partners in Austria’s GrÏ‹ner specialist producer Laurenz V, Dublin was the forth leg of the Generation GrÏ‹ner tour to be held all over the world, preceded by London, Zurich and Vienna with further tastings planned for Dubai, Hong Kong and Asia later this year.

Laurenz V Charming beat 23 other wines from eight countries including Austria, Germany, France, Australia, New Zealand, Slovakia, USA and the Czech Republic. This same wine came second in London so went one better in Dublin to take the title!

The top five Grϋner Veltliner wines resulting from the blind tasting in Dublin were:

·         Laurenz V Charming Grüner 2011 (AUT)
·         Weingut Hammel Pfalz 2011 (GER)
·         Bott Frigyes 2011 (SK)
·         Yealands Estate 2012 (NZ)
·         Weingut Weegmüller Vom Balkon der Pfalz  2012 (GER)

The wines were scored out of 20 and the scores for each wine were tallied at the end of the tasting. The judging panel included seven of Ireland’s respected wine journalists as well as Julie Dupouy, Ireland’s Sommelier of the Year 2012.  Austria has now claimed the best wine on two occasions tying with Germany who has also claimed two victories.

Laurenz Maria Moser of Laurenz V said: “We are delighted that LAURENZ V Charming has taken the Generation GrÏ‹ner title in Dublin. We are happy to have started this initiative to evaluate the different styles of GrÏ‹ner produced around the world, and to find out what might exist beyond the Austrian styles. Having a look at the development of GrÏ‹ner on a world scale might help to broaden the horizon for Austria’s GrÏ‹ners.”



Kitchen Garden Workshop

Elke of Bia Sasta tells me that Kitty is returning to The Cottage of Bia Sásta, to continue “to share her skills and knowledge with us to ensure that we all have a fab kitchen garden. We will learn how to transplant seedlings, how to plant directly, how to keep weeds at bay and how to enrich your soil. All this is topped with a lunch prepared by me and I have planned something nice for you. You will go home with a pile of new knowledge, information material, a full tummy and a little gift. If you like to join us on Saturday, 11th May at 10am near Grenagh, please email me on biasasta@hotmail.com to reserve a place for €20 inkl. all the above.”  

Ben & Jerry on Tour! Ben & Jerry’s flavour fans will get the chance to experience the new flavours in the most delicious surroundings as The Core Tour returns to Dublin with not one but two events in Dublin on the 9th & 11th May. The Core Crusader van will hoof it to two locations alongside a brand spanking new Ben & Jerry’s barn area, where fans can enjoy their chosen scoop of their favourite Core flavour while chilling on hay bales, enjoying the sunshine and listening to top tunes from some of Ireland’s best up-and-coming bands! Get all the details here

Shorts

Loire Lesson #3. Loving Cabernet Franc.


Loire Lesson #3
Domaine de Roncée, Chinon 2007, 12.5% abv, €17.95, Karwig 

Agreeable aromas of dark fruits greet you, some spice also. This red, produced from the Cabernet Franc grape, is juicy and fruity, fresh, light and well balanced with an excellent long finish.

The official description says it is “tender and easy to drink”. Easy to drink for sure, even though it seems stronger than its 12.5%. But I would be inclined to dispute “tender” as there is a fair bit of backbone in this one. Very Highly Recommended.

By the way, the Christophe Baudry and Jean-Martin Dutour, named on the front label are mentioned among the top Chinon producers by Hugh Johnson in his 2012 handbook.

And the lesson? Well, it is easy to love Cabernet Franc. And I’m looking forward to trying it out on its home soil when I visit Chinon later in the summer. Still looking for tips for the Loire area.

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Tapas at Skibbereen’s Riverside Café


Spanish delights in Skibbereen evening sun
Albarino, almost same colour as the olive oil behind
Having spent a day in the West Cork sun last Saturday, and having walked every step in the exhilarating MizenHead experience, I was looking forward to dinner in Majella O’Neill’s Riverside Café in Skibbereen.

Had checked out the fish specials and thought they were just what were wanted. But there was a change of plan on entry to this lovely restaurant. The lady looking after us was from Galicia and so too was the chef. We noticed the Tapas Tasting menu on a board and went for it.
Seafood Bon Bon
We were seated close to the windows with a nice view over the River Ilen. Indeed if the weather had been a degree or two warmer we’d have been sitting at an outside table. Still we enjoyed the sun inside and indeed there were times when we could have done with the sun glasses. All very Spanish as we waited for the tapas.

But first a decision had to be made on the wine. The French and Italian were on a loser here and we choose the Atlantik Albarino, Rias Baixas, Spain (of course), and priced at seven euro a glass. I liked their description: While it may slake the thirst of many a Camino pilgrim, this Albarino is far from penitential. Really enjoyed it and it had an outstanding colour almost as gold as the olive oil alongside it (see photo).

Duck Pate
We were to enjoy four tapas on the Tasting Menu that cost €18.50. First up was a Sea Food Bon Bon, served in two little shot glasses with a garlic and olive oil mix. A great mix of flavours and we were on our way to the North West of Spain.
Pig's cheek
Our second plate saw the arrival of their Homemade Duck Liver Parfait, served with salad, caramelised red onions and crostinis. That didn't last long either!

Pig’s cheek is making a comeback in these parts and we were about to get the Galician version: Pork Cheek Confit, Truffle mashed potato, Savoy Cabbage, carrot chutney and Port salsa. Pig’s head with spuds and cabbage in other words. In one word: gorgeous! In two words: super tasty.
Lamb
And the best was yet to come: Roast Rump (had lump down first!) of Lamb, served with aubergine Zaalouk and sauce of red peppers. Superb stuff indeed.
Lemon Pudding
And still room for dessert (not included in the tapas menu). We each went for the Lemon Pudding, served with chocolate cigars and meringue (€6.00). Delighted with that too and finished off with a pot of loose leaf Earl Grey before stepping out into the sunshine and a long enough walk to the car. If you do book the Riverside (and I recommend that you do visit), remember that Saturday is mass night in Skibb and, with the church very close to the Riverside, all the nearby parking will be taken.

*By the way, the Riverside is a great supporter of local produce. “Our list of suppliers changes with supply and demand but among our regular sources of products are:
Ballyburden Meats, Busby Strawberries, Caherbeg Freerange Pork, Carbery Milk Products, Clona Milk Products, Cork Coffee Roasters, John and Mary Cronin Feirm Ur Milk & Yogurt, Durrus Cheese, GlenIlen, Gubbeen Smoke House, House of Tea ,Independent Irish Healthfoods, Lorge Chocolatier , Milsean Artisan Chocolatiers , Pandora Bell, Seafood Cuisine, Shannonvale Chicken, Skeaghnore Duck, Thornhill Organic Farm,,Valleyview Freerange Eggs, Woodcock Smokery.."






Monday, April 29, 2013

Amuse Bouche. Palestinian Picnics.


We spread a red and white checked cloth over the rock and placed on it different salads and vegetable dishes that we had brought with us. We ended with a colourful display, all entirely vegetarian. There was beetroot salad, baba ganoush [an aubergine dip], goat’s cheese, a bowl of carrots, tomatoes and broccoli, different kinds of patties and fruits. We settled down to eat, the men from the group opposite left the women and children to search for dry wood for their barbecue of kufta and lamb chops.
From Occupation Diaries by Raja Shehadeh.

Dining at Liss Ard


Dining at Liss Ard

Visited Liss Ard Estate near Skibbereen for the first time recently and decided to join a few of the other residents for dinner in the main house. Head Chef Cliona McCarthy uses lots of produce from local suppliers including Caherbeg, Gubbeen, Glenilen and Sally Barnes. The food on the table is, as they say themselves, “simple uncomplicated food bursting with freshness and flavours”.  It is also fairly priced.

We started off with two salads (7.50). My pick was the Caherbeg Crispy Bacon and Potato Salad. Some really fresh leaves here with excellent flavour from both the bacon and potato. It was much the same with CL’s Warm Chicken Salad with Glenilen Yoghurt and Mint Dressing, another very simple yet satisfactory plateful.


You don’t have a great choice here but there is no shortage of quality in the five starters and five main courses. We both settled on the same mains: Roast Union Hall Cod with Lemon Herb Butter and a Mussel Risotto (about 18/19 euro). This was as fresh as you’d expect and the risotto was really well executed.

The wine list is also rather short but appropriate to the demands on the restaurant and again there is quality there. We certainly enjoyed our Main a Main Chardonnay from the Pays d’Oc, unoaked with a gorgeous gold/yellow colour, fresh and fruity and a balancing citrus zest, all for €25.00.

The evening’s dessert was a New Season’s Rhubarb Fool with homemade shortbread (6.50). Again, quite a simple dish but delicious.

Service was excellent at dinner but more hit and miss at breakfast time (two bookable sittings 8.45 and 9.45). For instance, you do have to make your own toast. No big imposition but the toaster (and remember you can have maybe more than twenty people in the room) is your ordinary domestic two slice job and the bread slices are supplied in drips and drabs. So you may have to visit the hall more than once and then be lucky to have bread and access to the toaster at the same time.


Some of you might like to know that there is no bar here. But they do have an “honour bar” from which you may help yourself to a bottle of beer or wine and sign for it on the nearby blackboard!

The estate itself is huge with many woodlands paths that lead you to different features such as the Water Gardens and a Wild Flower Meadow, both of which will probably look better in another month or so. By the way, there is a unique long term approach at work here with the gardens as a whole  expected to reach maturity in thirty to fifty years time!

 The main feature of course is the Irish Sky Garden, also growing and developing, where you’ll experience the giant earth and stone works, The Crater, by famed artist James Turrell, with its contemplative 'Vault Purchase' or plinth (below) at its centre.
                                                    
There is also a large lake in the grounds, used for various sports including canoeing and fishing. We stayed in the Lodge that overlooks this lake. So too did a ten strong group who had exclusive access to the lounge there. If we needed to lounge (we didn’t really), we'd have had to travel up to the main house (either by car or by a pleasant short walk through the woods). You also have to "travel" for breakfast and dinner but we knew that!
 One other handicap in the Lodge (some may not regard it as such) is the lack of a decent signal for your mobile phone – even our receptionist who showed us our splendid room there had to go back to the main house to check something out because she had no reception. Needless to say, the Wi-Fi, available in the main house, doesn’t extend to the lodge. Ideal, if you want to get away from it all!

There is a lot going on in Liss Ard even though driving up the bumpy main driveway, you might be wondering what you are letting yourself in for. But there is a philosophy at work here, allowing you to experience the “beauty, wonder and tranquillity of Irish Nature”. We did see a fox running along the same driveway!

See also Stunning West Cork in yesterday's sunshine.


Friday, April 26, 2013

Tomas Clancy: Wine Geese were "on the make"!

Tomas Clancy at The Crawford
We are not impressed.
John Hogan's statue of
William Crawford looms over the wines.
In the Crawford Art Gallery last night, wine lover Tomas Clancy dispelled any romantic notions we might have had held about the early Wine Geese, saying that these Irish were “people on the make”. They had tried it in Ireland and indeed there is some evidence that some left their Irish loves behind for richer pickings abroad, particularly in France: “They married well, mainly to the daughters of the aristocrats, some even to the rich widows.”




In some leisurely moments before the talk, part of the series of Wine Geese events in the Cork area, Tomas had time to wander upstairs in the Gallery and was struck by the juxtaposition of two portraits, one of the merchant and the Lord Mayor of Cork (1776) Hugh Lawton and the other of a stern Roy Keane. Only in Cork. Lawton by the way will feature in another Wine Geese event later in the year.

Colm McCan pours for Ted Murphy
Tomas has visited many of the Wine Geese and says that they love to see the Irish coming all the way to see them; he has found this a common expression around the world whether the winemakers have been in situ for hundreds of years or for just a few decades.

Wine historian Ted Murphy, the inspiration and perspiration behind the international wine museum in Kinsale (well worth a visit), was in the audience. He and Tomas are great friends and Tomas took the opportunity to point out that while many nations have as many and in some cases more wine geese than we have, it was Ted who “brought it all together” mainly through his book The Kingdom of Wine.

Tomas made some terrific points too about how Ireland, for much of the 20th century, shut out many of its famous and very successful exiles as it nurtured its infant sense of nationhood. He reckons now, that the shutters are gone, that it is entirely appropriate to look again at the achievements and the achievers aboard.

“Aer Lingus should use wine geese wines” he stated. And why not, particularly on flights to and from the wine producing countries where we have engaged (most of them!).

Maybe we should even look at characters like the Duke of Wellington, an Irish MP for over 25 years. He too had a wine connection for it was he who secured a large area where Port is made for the British!

On to the wines then and we started with L’Abeille de Fieuzal, Pessac-Leognan, Bordeaux 2009, but the big story in the whites came with the next bottle, the Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, Napa Valley 2010.

Jim Barrett from Waterford, who started his working life shovelling coal off the back of a lorry and, having been a US marine and lawyer, bought the winery and then had the satisfaction of seeing his 1973 Chardonnay win the famous Judgement of Paris against the best the French could offer.



Something of an interruption then as the time at the Crawford came to an end and, with huge thanks to Victor Murphy of the prize-winning House Cafe in the Opera House next door, we were all accommodated for part two.

Chateau de la Ligne (Bordeaux 2008) was next up. Tomas has been there and said that owner Terry Cross has, among other interesting items in his collection, an enormous Celtic Cross on the estate driveway. The wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, “has another few years to go” and Tomas advised us, while waiting, to get our hands on their Cuvee Prestige (05 or ’06).

The Barton family story is pretty well known so it was no surprise to see of their wines, the Chateau Leoville Barton, St Julien, Bordeaux 2004, included. “Here”, said Tomas, “The Irish roots will never go away”.

But what was the Irish connection with Château Musar, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon 2004, the mystery wine? Well, it was Ronald Barton who joined the army in WW2 and ended up in the Lebanon where he got to know the family and helped the chateau in the ways of making fine wines.

And to round it all off there was yet another Irish connection. On arrival, we had been served the El Comandante Chardonnay from Argentina. Founder of this winery was the late Michael Lynch. As a UN officer in Lebanon, he too helped Musar by using some Irish blarney to get their harvested grapes through an Israeli roadblock to the winery, thus saving the vintage.

The wine geese are here, there and everywhere!

Next event: Thursday May 16th at L’Atitude 51 where Fleur McCree of Little Beauty in Marlborough, New Zealand, will retrace her family roots back to Cork.

Food to feature in Ring of Cork Fest

Food will be one of five themes featured when the Ring of Cork festival is held in Midleton next month...
There will be live cookery demonstrations by renowned Cork chefs including food writer and cook, Lilly Higgins. Artisan food producers and stalls from all over the South and East Cork area will showcase the finest delicacies and delights on offer in the Region. Tastings and market stalls will ensure that visitors really get a taste for the Ring of Cork. Read more here.