Muscadet and Sangiovese excel on home ground. A lovely white and red wine for you.

Muscadet and Sangiovese excel on home ground. A lovely white and red wine for you. 

La Fessardière “La Mer qu’on voit danser” Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie (AC) 2015, 12%

€16.00, Mary Pawle Wines, Mannings Ballylickey and Little Green Grocer in Kilkenny 

Melon de Bourgogne, the grape from which Muscadet is produced, is sometimes referred to condescendingly as a “inoffensive grape or a “neutral” one. The Melon grape certainly lacks the boisterous aromas that characterise New World Sauvignon Blanc. But this lack of initial assertiveness is deceiving, especially if it has spent some time on its lees (sur lie, on the label) and, as is also the case here, a little time in oak.

Still, the aromas of this 2015 are reticent. You’ll probably get citrus but you’ll need to work harder to get more. Mid gold is the colour and it’s quite attractive. All the work and care (including a light oaking and 9 months on lees) that has been lavished here, comes through on the palate with its superb texture. Excellent citrus flavours, the fruit rounded, and well balanced by a sprightly acidity.

For decades now, it has been the traditional accompaniment to seafood, especially in this corner of France, though it will do the job just as well in Ireland. An refreshing appetiser as well.

The Domaine de la Fessardiere has produced organic wine since 1997. Michel Sauvion the former winemaker, made this choice in order to increase the quality of its Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine wine and work closer to nature. In 2014, Jérôme & Emeline met Michel Sauvion.… As wine lovers, Jérôme and Emeline were seduced by the wine and Michel’s knowhow and they choose right away to keep producing wine following the organic method. Then, they decided to value the different parts and typicity of the land and the winery through a new range of Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine wines.

Made with love. You’ll love it! Highly Recommended.

And then you can check up on the other Muscadets in the range by the same producer, including the two below, recently reviewed here, also from Mary Pawle:

L’Air Innocent https://www.corkbilly.com/2019/04/lost-in-muscadet-vineyard-in-nantes-and.html

La Gloire De Nos Pères https://www.corkbilly.com/2020/11/a-french-red-and-white-each-very-highly.html

Volpi “Boira” Sangiovese Marche (IGT) 2019, 13%,\

€14.40 Mary Pawle Wines, Mannings Ballylickey and Little Green Grocer in Kilkenny

This charming Sangiovese, not from Tuscany but from Marche (between the central mountains and the east coast), has a lovely ruby colour. Aromas are intense, ripe red fruit, floral and herbal notes too. Flavours are just as bright and intense, full of red and darker fruit flavours, plus a hint of vanilla. Tannins are more or less silky. Dry and harmonious, the Boira has a lingering finish. 

An organic and vegan-friendly wine, it is ideal for the table. Try it with stewed meat and aged cheeses (winery tips); other suggestions include spaghetti bolognese, lamb shank and steak Milanese, Pappardelle pasta with a rabbit and porcini mushroom ragù, Fried chicken livers, Slow-roasted pork with white bean mash. 

Speaking of pork, I had a glass of it the other night with a dish from On the Pig’s Back: Broiled Marinated Pork Chop, Savoy cabbage, Fondant Potato and Mustard Sauce. An excellent match.

Highly Recommended. Very well priced too, by the way. 

Highly Recommended Wines from The Rhone and The Danube

Highly Recommended Wines from 

The Rhone and The Danube

We've got two lovely wines for you, red from the Rhone and white from the Danube. Organic wine-maker Jacques Frelin has vineyards all over France from the Languedoc (where he is headquartered) to the Loire. The Diwald vineyard is about 20 minutes from the Danube; they have been pioneers in organic wine in Austria and are well-known for their Grüner Veltliner.

Contrefort du Delta Côtes du Rhône (AOP) 2018, 14%

€15.62 - Widely available, Fields Supervalu, Skibbereen; Scally’s Supervalu, Clonakilty; Organico, Bantry; Taste, Castletownbere; Quay Co-Op, Cork; Bridge St. Kenmare; O'Donovan's Off Licence; The Grainey, Scarriff; The Connemara Hamper, Clifden, Mary Pawle Wines. 

Colour  of this C-d-R is ruby, slightly lighter towards the rim. Aromas are not shy and speak strongly of soft red fruit. And that pleasing red fruit is found in the soft and velvety mouth, a confident true expression of the grapes and the region, with round tannins and a persistent aftertaste. Highly Recommended.

The label is brief but gives quite a lot of info: No sulphites. Organic wine. Produced by Jacques Frelin. Well rounded and aromas of red fruit. Matches well with red meat, spaghetti Bolognese or cheese. Serve at 18 degrees.

Frelin, whose company is called Terroirs Vivants has, for over thirty years now, been at the forefront of the organic wine movement in France. While organic is often associated with small, this is not the case with Frelin who has vineyards all over the country, in the Languedoc (where he is headquartered), in Bordeaux, in Gascony, in the Rhone and Provence and the Loire.

Many of the wines reviewed on this blog are organic and I often take for granted that everyone knows what organic is. Just in case you don’t, here’a a pretty good definition from the producer website:

Organic wine is made from organically grown grapes in accordance with the rules of organic farming, which specifically excludes the use of artificial chemical fertilisers and pesticides.

The winemaking process must then comply to European regulations, which limit the use of SO2, ban certain physical processes and insist on the use of organically-sourced materials. All organic producers are audited each year by an independent body, which makes the European organic logo a trustworthy seal.

Diwald Grüner Veltliner Alte Weingärten Wagram 2014, 13%  

€27.00 - Organico, Bantry; Mary Pawle Wines.

Light straw, with a touch of green, is the colour of this 2014 Grüner. Spice notes in the aromas, white pepper and rocket. Vivacious on the palate where’ll you again meet the spice, also fresh flavours of apples and pears. Complex, elegant and precise and Highly Recommended.

Mary Pawle: “These vines are about 30-40 years old and the grapes are harvested in November. Would work very well with roast pork or asparagus”.

The Diwalds (Paula and Hans) are pioneers of organic wine-growing in Austria (1980), with their roots in the region of Wagram, and the younger generation is now running the show. The Alte Weingarten is Martin Diwald's top Grüner from the oldest vineyard in the village. Painstaking selection of the best grapes all the way into October pays off with this gem.

Today, the Diwald wine style follows a simple credo: the wines – whether white, red, rosé, orange or cloudy – should be lean, elegant and cheeky, but still offer depth and body. They are individual wines which speak to our – and your – taste buds…. this Gru-Vee is just one example. By the way, their other wines from this grape are also excellent and Mary Pawle has quite a few on her list.

Iberian Aces From Mary Pawle. One Spanish Tinto. One Portuguese Branco.

Iberian Aces From Mary Pawle. 

One Spanish Tinto. One Portuguese Branco. 

Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto, Vino de la Tierra Castilla 2019, 13%, €13.15, Mary Pawle.

Pinuaga Tinto Stockists include:

 

Taste, Castletownbere

Olive Branch, Clonakilty

Mortons of Galway

Little Green Grocer, Kilkenny

The Grainey, Scarriff

Colour of this Spanish red is a mid ruby. The aromas are full of red and darker fruit. Very promising and that promise is fulfilled on the palate. Vibrant, with  fruit galore, expressive with a touch of spice, good acidity to balance. Young, yet with character, the blend is very approachable, all the way through to the finish. Your lips will tell you the tannins are still a factor. Nice touch of smoothness though in the mouthfeel. Very quaffable and should have no problem pairing with the suggested salads, tapas, pintos and bbq (serve at 12 degrees). Good idea to have a few of these bottles in the cellar or in your usual cool dark spot! Highly Recommended. Very well priced too by the way.

This wine comes from a single vineyard of 5 Hectare of Grenache and 3 Ha of old, Tempranillo bush vines. The Tempranillo clone is called Cencibel and it produces smaller grapes with very soft and silky skin and has a much longer ripening period. Hand harvested in early September, the wine is fermented with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks.

In 1960, the first generation of Pinuaga winemakers established the winery in the village of Corral de Almaguer, province of Toledo.

Today, the second and third generation of the Pinuaga family, Valentin and Esther, maintain the old vines with much care and pride, following a minimal intervention philosophy, using natural and artisanal winemaking processes and recovering indigenous clones. The quality of the wines is driven by the characteristic of the soils, age of vines, grape variety and organic farming practices; all of these parameters are present in every wine, making them singular and unique.

Altitude is a key factor here, as it is in much of Spain. According to the World Atlas of Wine, “a good 90% of all Spanish vineyards lie at altitudes higher than any major French wine region” and this, especially in Castilla y Leon, helps maintain acidity enough to keep the wines relatively fresh. The altitude benefit means “growers can depend on cool nights to ‘fix’ colour and flavour in the grapes ripened during the torrid summer days”.  

Casa De Mouraz Encruzado Vinho Branco DãO (DOC) 2016, 13%, €21.00 Mary Pawle Wines

Little Green Grocer, Kilkenny

+ selected Restaurants  

Leading Portuguese winemaker Antonio Braga admits to falling in love with the  Encruzado grape variety, the noblest white variety of the Dão: “It grows in complexity as it ages, is great for oak ageing. It has a wonderful gastronomic ability to cut through fatty foods. It is an autumn wine, a fireplace wine. It may not be in fashion but it is a wonderful variety, wonderful to work with.”

In 1997, Casa de Mouraz became the first biodynamic winery in the Dao. Portuguese grapes aren't that well known individually in this country. Encruzado, the grape here, is “potentially the best white grape of the DAO” according to Grapes and Wine. Barrel fermentation and lees stirring help bring out the character. It is indigenous and regarded as the most important white grape in the region and this particular wine has had eight months on fine lees with batonage.

Colour ion this 2016 vintage is a mid-straw. Aromas of medium intensity recall white fruits and citrus, floral notes too, and I noticed a slight whiff of a Riesling-like diesel. Fresh fruit flavours (apricot, peach), excellent mouthfeel, acidity enough to nudge it towards crisp and a decent citrus-y finish too. Mineral and  floral, fresh and structured, it is quite harmonious and Highly Recommended.

Food pairings include: Oven baked fish (such as codfish, salmon or tuna). Also very good with white meat and some vegetarian dishes like pasta with pesto or cheese sauces. Aside from handling full flavoured fish dishes (also the Portuguese favourite bacalao), it is excellent on its own. very versatile indeed. Serve at a temperature of 11-12ºC

The first thing you’ll note is that the cork is covered with a wax. Just remove that with the blade on your corkscrew. It is fairly soft but be careful! Alternatively, warm the top by rubbing it with the palm of your hand. Then plunge in the corkscrew as usual and it should all come away. If you get it right, just a little disc of the wax will come  away with the cork. Video demo here. 

A Strongly Recommended French Double

A Strongly Recommended French Double 

Château Petit Roubié Picpoul de Pinet, AC Coteaux du Languedoc 2019, 13%, €14.50 Mary Pawle

Fairly widely available including Organico, Bantry; Mannings, Ballylickey; Field’s Supervalu, Skibbereen; Taste, Castletownbere; Quay Co-Op, Cork City; The Little Green Grocer, Kilkenny; The Connemara Hamper, Clifden; Ardkeen Food Store, Waterford; The Good Food Store (Toon’s Bridge Dairy) Dublin.

Light gold, with faint green reflections, is the colour of this Picpoul. Aromas of the wine are somewhat shy but mainly floral. Crisp on the palate, no shortage of acidity either yet, with white and citrus fruit on the palate and its excellent mouthfeel, it is more harmonious than you’d expect for the grape. Dry for sure, especially towards the finish, and obviously an excellent match for oysters and shellfish (which are abundant in the area).  Serve at about 8 degrees for best results. I think this is even better than the previous vintage, so Very Highly Recommended.

Importer Mary Pawle says it is often referred to as the Muscadet of the South. Indeed, you’ll almost certainly come across Picpoul more than Muscadet on Irish restaurant lists these days.

The Picpoul is grown on a clay-limestone terroir not far from the large Thau lake, on the edge of the Med. While regarded as a lake, it has very high salinity.

Château Petit Roubié has been practising organic farming since 1985. Floriane and Olivier Azan have owned the estate since 1981 and have developed, thanks to a judicious choice of winemaking, a very attractive range indeed. Their lands are in a historic area; if you visit, you can still see vestiges of the Via Domitia (the Roman road) in their scrubland. And those Roman engineers were building on top of an even older “road”. The wine is presented in a distinctive Neptune bottle though that, as far as I know, has nothing to do with the Roman god of the sea.

Emmanuel Giboulot “En Grégoire” Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes De Nuits (AOC) 2017, 12%, 

€41.00 New to the range but available online at Mary Pawle. 

This light and perfumed biodynamic 2017 Burgundy, mid to dark ruby in colour, has plenty of berries in the aromas. The attack is fresh with lots of fruit coming on strong, more gentle as the smooth finish is reached and fine tannins dry the lips. Very Highly Recommended.

The producers confidently assure us that "En Grégoire" "can accompany a beautiful plate of cold meats, grilled meats, a dish

exotic. Its complexity will do wonders."

An excellent Pinot Noir then. Par for the course in these parts, you might well say. Except that, as recently as 2014, this winemaker Emmanuel Giboulot was fined and threatened with a jail term for sticking to his principles.  He was convicted for refusing a government order to spray crops with pesticides, following fear over an outbreak of golden rot, only to have the decision reversed on appeal.

Emmanuel met the problem of agricultural practices and its impact on wine and human health head on - Prison rather than poison - and is now a prominent advocate for organic and biodynamic viticulture. His wines reflect his principles and the widely acknowledged exceptional Burgundy terroir.

The Young Ones! Bojo Nouveau. Plus a lovely White Tempranillo

The Young Ones! Bojo gives us Spring in Autumn. Plus a lovely White Tempranillo

Bonne Tonne “Bojo” Beaujolais Villages Nouveau (AOC) 2020, 12.5%, €18.00 Mary Pawle 

“A Taste of Spring in the heart of Autumn” is how the producers Bonne Tonne describe Beaujolais Nouveau in general.  And it aptly sums up the style. A style that has a long history, ups and down too, and recently on the up again, possibly not as high as before but likely on a more sustainable bearing (especially with organic producers such as Bonne Tonne leading the way).

Mary Pawle: “This is a light and fruity Gamay to celebrate the new vintage.” And instead of coming to us next summer, we get to enjoy it from the end of November (hence the Autumn above). 

Made from 100% Gamay grapes, Beaujolais Nouveau is the most popular ‘vin de primeur’, fermented for just a few weeks and then officially released for sale. Beaujolais Nouveau owes its easy drinkability to a winemaking process called carbonic maceration, or whole-berry fermentation. This technique preserves the fresh, fruity quality of the wine. Very Highly Recommended.

The Beaujolais Nouveau tradition, then quite a long long time in existence, was firmed up in 1951 and marketing boosted the wine, result in it selling unexpectedly well outside as well as inside France, with races organised to get the first of it to certain towns and cities and countries.

Why continue with this tradition? Our producers, Thomas and Anne-Laure, again: “Because this celebration and especially this new wine, allow a moment of sharing and human warmth, as we love them in Beaujolais! The birth of a wine, of a vintage! In any case, we are very attached to this tradition which is ours!”

“Admittedly, it is a young wine which is not necessarily to everyone's taste because it has not had time to age in the cellar or in the bottle! But it brings freshness, fruit, lightness and it is also very digestible! In short, it brings joy and warmth in the cold and gloom!” 

No point then in getting too technical about Bojo produced with indigenous yeasts from chemical free light and fruity Gamay grapes. Be happy and enjoy this young wine.

* The Beaujolais launch hasn’t always provided happiness. Eastbourne on the south-east coast of England was the scene of a tragedy on 13 November, 1984. Then a light plane carrying 8 passengers crashed. The eight, including four Irish journalists covering the “race”, plus the pilot, were killed. See the RTE report here.

Osoti Tempranillo Blanco & Sauvignon Blanc Rioja (DOC) 2019, 14%, €14.80 Mary Pawle

A light straw is the colour of this bright organic white wine from Rioja. It is a blend made from Tempranillo Blanco and a small percentage of Sauvignon Blanc. White Tempranillo grapes make a young and fresh wine, with floral and white fruit (pear) aromas and that is the case here. Soft and rounded on the palate with a touch of sweetness. Acidity is subtle and the wine is nicely balanced. A young and pleasant wine with a pleasant finish to boot. Highly Recommended.

Good guidance as to food pairings from the producers with young and semi-mature cheeses, olives, smoked tapas, carpaccio, fresh salads, mushrooms. artichokes, asparagus or cold soups being recommended along with fish, rice, seafood and meat.

Though a brand of Bodega Viñedos Ruiz Jiménez, Osoti produce a full range of young and aged wines, including whites, reds, and rosés.

Festival Food & Drink Favourites #3: Bodegas Robles Vermouth VRMT

Festival Food & Drink Favourites #3

Bodegas Robles Vermouth VRMT, Recetta Andalusi, 15%,

€28.00 (1 litre) Mary Pawle Wines  Available also from URRU in Bandon and there may still be some in Toons Bridge in Dublin. 

A Sensational Vermouth That Has Been A Long Time In The Making.

Based on sherry wines that are aged eight years in oak barrels and enhanced by aromas and memories of the Andalusi cuisine (from Al-Andalus period, 8th to 15th centuries), this Vermouth is superb.

Thanks to Bodegas Robles and Michelin Star Chef Paco Morales who have recovered “the tradition of vermouth macerated by time and the work of our winemaking team who enjoy researching their own path and creating new sensation”. 

Its balance between sweet, bitter and acid allows a prolonged presence on the palate. The clove and cinnamon are the main spices responsible for the warm Andalusian aroma characteristic of this vermouth. This is a must try and one of our favourites over the festive season. It is imported by Mary Pawle Wines and comes in a 1L size bottle.

The base of VRMT Robles is organic Oloroso wine that has aged for eight years in oak barrels. A light touch of Pedro Ximénez wine displays a wide range of aromas of quince jelly and honey tones. The intriguing “solera” system mixes very old wines with younger wines thus mothering the young wines. A unique experience of maturity and freshness.

Bodegas Robles’ vineyards have the air of a wildly romantic garden, overrun by a layer of lavender, poppies, clover and wild plants, buzzing with bees and other insects. VRMT Robles is macerated with ten of these aromatic plants in an attempt to translate a real sense of our terroir into the vermouth

The study of Andalusi spices has been fundamental, following the indications of an anonymous manuscript of the thirteenth century: “The knowledge of the use of spices is the main basis of the cuisine, because they are the foundation of cooking and it is built on that basis.” The clove and cinnamon are the main responsible for the warm Andalusi aroma characteristic of our vermouth.

Pairings recommended by the producers are:

A good pairing for nuts, fruits such as orange or lemon, a cheese and raspberry cake., Any sea food and all kinds of fish: tuna, cod, salmon, anchovies., It's perfect with sweet flavours, especially those with more sweet and dark flavor. Olives, cheeses, ham, sausages, smoked meats, mussels, clams.

Very versatile, as you can see. But enjoy it too as an aperitif, 40ml or so over ice, is a lovely introduction before sipping it neat with any of the above. I also found it makes a superb Negroni with the usual suspects Gin and Campari, each accounting for a third of the drink. Still experimenting - just as well it comes in a one litre bottle!

Festival Food & Drink Favourites #1Fabulous Festive Feast from The Glass Curtain

Festival Food & Drink Favourites #2 Eight Degrees Devil’s Ladder Belgian Tripel

Top Wines 2020 Short List. Look to Chile's Itata for red, to Spain's Navarra for white

 Top Wines 2020 Short List

Found my Red in Itata, White in Navarra

Hard work in Itata - from a Liberty Wines Zoomed Masterclass 2020.

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca Navarra 2019 Mary Pawle

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty

While most of the wine I drink these days comes from Europe (much of the red from France), it seems my favourite red wine area for 2020 is Itata in Chile. Light reds are emerging as a personal favourite and here in Itata, with the likes of Pedro Parra, Aurelio Montes and Leonardo Erazo working their magic, we are enjoying beautiful bottles based on País but also Cinsault. The four listed above are superb and I'm not inclined to pick any one over the others.

Aside from the Itata wines, Beaujolais, Burgundy and the Loire (Cabernet Franc), will also feature on my shopping lists. Indeed, the Passetoutgrains below is a gem. Navarra has some outstanding winemakers including Azul y Garanza and Tandem. Also in Spain, Bodegas Pinuaga made a big impression on me early in the year.

No Itata equivalent in the whites but the two from New Zealand  are outstanding and are distinctive examples of Grüner Veltliner and Pinot Gris. Austria is, of course, the home of Gru-Vee and Diwald come up with the goods year after year as indeed does Judith Beck. The three French whites featured are each worth looking out for. And Spain has come up with a stunning Garnacha white, by Azul y Garanza, pipping the Kiwis for my white of the year!

The Short List 2020

RED

Chile

Pedro Parra “Vinista” Itata Chile 2018 Liberty

Clos des Fous “Pour Ma Geule” Itata Chile 2016 Liberty

Montes “Outer Limits” Cinsault 2017 DO Valle del Itata Liberty

Leonardo Erazo “A Los Viñateros Bravos” Volcánico País 2018 Itata (Chile) Le Caveau

France

J.M. Cazes Domaine des Sénéchaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape (AOC) 2016 O’Brien’s

Domaine Lacour Bourgogne Passetoutgrains (AOP) 2017 Le Caveau

J-C Regnaudot Pinot Noir Bourgogne (AOC) '17 Le Caveau

Château du Cèdre Héritage Malbec, Cahors (AOC) 2016 Le Caveau

Domaine de Brau PURE Pinot Noir, Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2015 Mary Pawle

Italy

GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty

Spain

Bodegas Pinuaga Tinto “Colección” Vino de la Tierra de Castilla  2016 Mary Pawle

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014 O'Brien's

Azul y Garanza  “Naturaleze Salvaje” Navarra (DO) 2017 Mary Pawle

Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC)  Douro Tinto 2017 Liberty

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WHITE

Spain

Azul y Garanza Naturaleza Salvaje Blanca 2019 Mary Pawle

New Zealand

Blank Canvas Grüner Veltliner Marlborough (2013) Liberty

Ata Rangi “Lismore” Pinot Gris Martinborough 2018 Liberty

France

Meyer-Fonné Gentil Alsace (AOC) 2018 Le Caveau

Bertrand Ambroise Lettre d’Eloïse Chardonnay “Coteaux Bourguignons” (AOC) 2017 Le Caveau

Rijckaert Chardonnay Arbois (AOC) 2018 Bradley’s/Wine Mason

Germany

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018 O’Briens

Portugal

Casa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro (DOC) Douro Branco 2019 Liberty

Austria

Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

Beck Weissburgunder Austria 2019 Le Caveau 

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Red and White Doubles

Fancy a good pair of red and white on your table at Christmas table or indeed at anytime? Why not try the Le Caveau pair, the Passetoutgrains (16.95) and the Gentil (18.00), listed above.

Lingenfelder Riesling Trocken Kabinett Freinsheimer Musikantenbuckel Pfalz (DP) 2018

Tandem Ars Nova Navarra (DO) 2014. Both from O’Brien’s

Diwald Grüner Veltliner (Wagram, Austria) 2018 Mary Pawle

De Brau Pure Pinot Noir Pays D’Oc (IGP) 2018 Mary Pawle

GD Vajra Nebbiolo Langhe (DOC) 2018 Liberty Wines

Pieropan Soave (DOC) Classico 2019 Liberty Wines

Andre Goichot Fleurie (AOC) 2018 Supervalu

Guy Saget Sancerre (AOC) 2018 Supervalu 

See the Long List here. 

And the Good Value List here.

Both should help you you in your quest for good wine in the run-up to Christmas and well into the New Year.