The Papaya Czar on Eighty-Sixth Street and Third Avenue is my kind of place - bright orange and yellow signs pasted on every available surface screaming, Papaya is God’s Greatest Gift to Man’s Health! Our Frankfurters are the working Man’s Filet Mignon! We’re polite New Yorkers, We support Mayor Giuliani! And so on. Papaya Czar’s walls are so layered with language that I find myself immediately calmed inside their doors, as though I’ve stepped into a model interior of my own skull.
from Motherless Brooklyn by Jonathan Lethem (1999). Very Highly Recommended.