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Sunday, July 17, 2022
BAR OF THE YEAR AWARDS 2022; National Finalists Announced. Vote for your favourite!
Saturday, July 16, 2022
The Swiss Cottage at Cahir. And don't miss the castle and the Apple Farm.
The Swiss Cottage at Cahir
Don't miss the castle and Apple Farm.
Perhaps the first thing to say about Cahir’s Swiss Cottage is that it is not Swiss at all, not even related! Apparently some local said the 1810 house reminded him or her of a Swiss chalet and the name stuck.
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| Bridge to the cottage |
You will see a signpost for the cottage in the castle car park in the Tipperary town. In fact, there are two more or less parallel paths. The lower one, nearer the golf course and river, is also the Fairy Path, so keep your eyes open! The other is a little higher up and is paved. Both end up in the same place. Of course, you may drive to the cottage (by the Ardfinnan Road) but the 2 kilometre walk is a pleasant one by the banks of the Suir.
The paths are signposted all the way. You keep the river on your right and cross when you come to a white bridge. The cottage (in the care of the OPW) is built on a little height so there are some steps involved, not too many though.
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| A magic shed on the Fairy Path |
One of the beds is quite interesting and is termed a campaign bed. The campaign came from its original army use, a fold-up easily transportable bed for the officers, and led to the well known camp bed. None of the furniture is original but most is very close to it.
What is original though are some of the wallpaper panels which amazingly have survived for over 200 years. All the rooms are elegantly decorated with nature the main theme.
It has been beautifully restored and looks more like the original that it did in the middle of the previous century. No photography is allowed inside but it certainly makes a pretty picture on the outside.
By the way, the proper term for this type of structure is a cottage orné. According to Wikipedia, similar buildings exist at Burrenwood, Co. Down; Derrymore, Bessbrook, Newry, Co. Armagh (National Trust); and the Petit hameau de la Reine at Versailles.
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| Fishing is important around here! |
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| There's a large town centre car park alongside Cahir Castle. The castle is open to the public and worth a visit. |
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| Geese were introduced to the castle and its environs in 2019. They sleep as a group under the walls and are multiplying! |
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| Wildflowers by the cottage path. |
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| When in Cahir, be sure and visit the Apple Farm and treat yourself to some of their delicious produce. |
Thursday, July 14, 2022
Taste of the Week. Cherries from The Apple Farm
Cherries from The Apple Farm
The juicy and delicious cherries grown on Con Traas’s Apple Farm are simply superb! It's been four years since I featured these beauties as Taste of the Week.
Easy to appreciate these juicy fruits. But not easy to grow. If that were the case, you’d find them in every farmers market. When grown in Ireland, cherries need protection for a number of reasons, and typically most growers use some form of simple tunnel to grow them in.
Thanks to Con and his team for making the extra effort. Put these cherries on your list if you’re anywhere near the Apple Farm, just a few minutes off the M8 on the N24 (Cahir-Clonmel Road)! Lots of other fruit available too, in season.
We bought a few boxes during a recent visit and, of course, the first thing to do is to eat a few simply as they are. Step it up a bit by making the classic French dessert flan called Clafoutis.
This time, I "discovered" another delicious way. As the Clafoutis was being prepared, I remembered I had a bottle of Rutherford Muscat produced by the Pfeiffers of Rutherford Glen in Australia. The Glen is rightly famous for its dessert wine and you'd be hard pushed to find a better wine to go with the Tipperary cherries!
As I write this, I'm finishing off the final cherries - the Clafoutis long gone. The wine from Oz is also almost gone. So I enjoy the last few sips with raw cherries. Cheers and cherrio!
Wednesday, July 13, 2022
Radisson's Brasserie Features Irish Producers. Andarl Farm A Star
Mayo's Andarl Farm A Star
Radisson's Brasserie Features Irish Produce
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| Andarl Farm. Masterfully executed dish. |
With many restaurants, mainly because of staffing difficulties, choosing not to open on Mondays and Tuesdays, its becomes more difficult to find meal on those days. The solution, for us, on a recent Tuesday, was the nearby Radisson and its Brasserie. The sun was shining as we arrived and the car temperature (it had been parked facing the sun, was some 27 degrees!.
Indoors, in the large Brasserie, it was much cooler; they had doors and windows open. It was on the cusp of a menu change when we arrived. We worked off the lunch menu; had we waited 20 minutes longer, we would have had the dinner menu in front of us. Perhaps because of the changeover time, service was a little slow, nothing serious though and it was well up to standard when extra staff arrived as dinner-time approached. All by the way were friendly, helpful and efficient.
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| Another ace dish, this time the chicken shines in a superb sauce. |
I had already checked the menu online and had put my eye on a dish featuring the produce by Andarl Farm, the Castlebar home of Velvet Pork that has been making a name for itself in restaurants around the country. There was a fairly similar dish on the evening menu.
Anyhow, I ordered the Roast Bacon Cutlet (Andarl Farm pork, Sautéed greens, spiced carrot Grain mustard reduction, all on cream potato). And I did hit the jackpot! Right on the money with amazing flavours and texture, superbly executed and very neatly presented indeed. Nothing redundant here, all the elements, including the mustard and veg, played a role and all that was left was a very clean bone! Well priced too, I thought, at €15.50.
Chicken Supreme and Braised Thigh Chasseur (19.50) was CL’s dish. It was served with plum tomatoes (some puréed, some whole), forest mushrooms, silver skins onions, Tarragon cream and creamed potato. Quite a plateful! More or less half a chicken, good quality and lifted by that gorgeous sauce, the only downside being that the two whole baby carrots could have done with a fraction longer in the pot.
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| Moretti. Not bad at all. Would have preferred a local craft beer. |
They have a nice selection of sides including Salad, Creamed potatoes, Skinny skin on chips, Roast root vegetables, and Cheesy garlic bread. We did share a tub of the chips and they were just perfect.
Aside from Andarl Farm, they do support quite a few Irish producers including Ardsallagh, Hegarty’s, Mozzarella from West Cork, Gilligan Farm beef, West Cork beer (in their batter), Loughnane’s of Galway, and their cheese board is a selection from West Cork. They say: All our beef, chicken and pork is of Irish origin unless stated otherwise.”
The Drinks List features a terrific selection of local gins: Beara, Bertha’s Revenge, Cork Dry, Method & Madness, Mike, Kinsale and Míl. So I was hopeful that they’d have an Irish craft beer especially when I saw two by Franciscan Well listed. But they didn’t have either of those and that was it.
Studied the list a bit further and I eventually settled on a bottle of Peroni (which I’ve seen praised by one of the top American beer writers recently). So my server went and came back, again empty-handed. No Peroni! At least, I knew now that they had Moretti as CL had one in front of her! So I settled for that well known Italian beer. They’ve been making it since 1859 so they must know a thing or two about it. And I was indeed well pleased with it, its flavour and refreshing qualities, especially on such a lovely warm evening!
Really well pleased overall with the comfort of the place, the friendliness of the staff and the quality of the food.
Tuesday, July 12, 2022
A Quart of Ale± #112. On the craft journey with Third Barrel, Kinnegar, Clonakilty and Trouble Brewing
On the craft journey with Third Barrel, Kinnegar, Clonakilty and Trouble Brewing
Third Barrel Day Drinkin Simcoe Session IPA 4%, 440 ml can Bradleys
Day Drinkin is the first of a series of “summer slammers” by Third Barrel. It’s a hazy lemon colour with a soft bubbly head that loses volume slowly. And with Simcoe taking the solo hops role, you can expect aromas of citrus and pineapple.
And it starts with the nose, pineapple and orange zest popping out of the glass. And more of the duo on the palate as the engagement gets a little more serious (in a good way!). No letting go now, as Wayne Wonder might have sung. Well he did sing it:
Got somebody she's a beauty
Very special really and truly
Take good care of me like it's her duty
Want you right by my side night and day.
Not too sure about night and day but Day Drinkin, at the 4% abv, would certainly make for a good session, night or day. As they say themselves: “be sure to pick up a few for your next bbq, camping trip or even just sitting on your own in the kids paddling pool.”
Kinnegar Brewers at Play #24 Summer Ale 4%, 440 ml can Bradleys
Colour is close to lemon, topped by a soft foamy head that sinks slowly. And a soft citrus breeze wafts up from your glass. This is summertime and the soft and supple citrus continues its merry way on the palate.
You deserve refreshment at the end of a hard hot day and this Donegal Summer Ale opens the door to a relaxing interlude whether in the newly opened Kinnegar taproom or in your own back garden. And, at four per cent, you and your buds could well have a summertime session. It’s a won won situation as someone might say.
One thing that is not immediately apparent, not that anyone is trying to hide it mind you, is that this beer, number 24 in the excellent Brewers at Play series, is a wheat ale. But be aware too that this is a once off. You get one chance. Jump aboard and sip in that rounded citrus experience.
They say:“Brewers at Play presents new beers designed to keep our brewers on their toes and our customers on their tenterhooks.” I say: “Keep ‘em coming!”
Ingredients: Water, barley, wheat, hops, citrus peel, yeast.
(No bergamot then?)
Clonakilty Foxy Red Ale 5.0%, 500ml bottle O’Donovan’s
Clonakilty’s “fierce” independent brewery are the producers of Foxy, a Red Ale. They have stopped short of proclaiming it as an Irish red ale.
Colour is a murky red brown with a bubbly white head that won’t keep you company for long. Aromas are pleasant and mildly malty; they have oats in here as well as barley. And it continues on its modest way on the palate, smooth of texture and smooth of flavour, the malt, with the slightest hint of sweetness, leading the way to a refreshing and satisfactory conclusion. One to note, methinks.
Ingredients: Well water, Irish malted barley and oats, hops, yeast and lots of passion.
Just one hop used, the East Kent Golding, brewer Frank Fredriksen told me.
He had bad news: It’s was a seasonal beer last autumn, only did a few batches of it, you might still find it a few places, but we're not stocking it at the moment.
And he had good news: Might brew it again in a few months though as many are asking for it.
They say: We are passionate about making beer with no compromise, brewing small batches with big personality. Using locally sourced grains, the best hops and water from our own well, our beers are handcrafted with care in our Brewhouse in Clonakilty by head brewer ‘Thirsty’ Frank Fredriksen and his team.
Clonakilty is at the centre of such a positive mix of beautiful scenery, amazing food, interesting characters, quirky local stories and strong town spirit. We consider ourselves hugely lucky to be able to make our beer here and become part of the tapestry of this place. It also pushes us to brew beer that stands with the best and make the town proud of what we do.
Trouble Brewing Trick Of Light IPA 6.3%, 440 ml can Bradleys
This recent Trick of the Light IPA from Trouble pours a hazy orange in the glass and there’s a soft white head that stays around for a spell. Tropical aromas rise up to greet you. And there’s a tropical posse on the palate also, along with the none too subtle spice of the rye, no shortage of citrus either, as all the hops contribute. Quite a forceful palate actually before a lip smacking finish.
The Kildare brewery, who also added oats here, say: “…Trick Of Light, a 6.3% IPA that has been dry hopped with Azacca, Cascade & Idaho 7 to deliver a big fruity blast of orange & grapefruit pith. The Idaho 7 gives a hint of pine that balances beautifully with the spiciness of the rye malt.”
Trouble Brewing was founded in 2010 by three friends: Paul, Tom and Stephen. Tom had been homebrewing for years (there’s always one!) and insisted on sharing the fruits of his labour with Paul and Stephen. On nights out, he dragged them to drink pints of various styles and flavours at pubs like the Porterhouse and the Bull and Castle beer hall, both Mecca’s for great beer in Dublin.
Paul soon developed an interest in brewing himself, and it wasn’t long before he realised making beer was a relatively inexpensive process and buying it was quite the opposite. With this in mind he approached Tom and Stephen with the idea of setting up a brewery of their own. It could provide an income for the three and get them out of the unfortunate situation of working for “the man”. They gathered up all the money they could (about €45k between them) and borrowed the same from the bank with the help of a well prepared business plan. Then they set about putting together a functioning brewery.
And they are functioning very well indeed, thank you!
Monday, July 11, 2022
Stunning Vermouth by Bodegas Robles and a gem from Ermitage
Stunning Vermouth by Bodegas Robles
Bodegas Robles VRMT Vermut de Robles NV 15%
€28.00 (1 litre) Manning’s , Ballylickey// Toon’s Bridge Dairy// Good Food Store, Dublin// Mary Pawle Wines
Amazing aromas with strong hints of the Oloroso sherry base and a “top-up” of Pedro Ximenez. Layers and layers of flavours on the rich palate, an appealing blend of freshness and maturity. The ten aromatic plants foraged in the locality have their say . An amazing liquid with a superb balance of sweetness and bitterness with the acidity playing a key role as the caravan of flavour rolls on and on to the heavenly finalé.
And we owe this taste of the past and the present and perhaps of a future paradise to Bodegas Robles and Michelin-starred chef Paco Morales who have produced this luscious vermouth with Robles’ 8-year old Oloroso as the base, and then that later light touch of the PX. The aromatic plants add a sense of terroir while other Paco additions such as clove and cinnamon echo the cuisine (of the Moorish Al-Andalus period (8th -15th century), all adding to the sense that this is indeed a special one!
Pairings recommended by the producers are:
A good pairing for nuts, fruits such as orange or lemon, a cheese and raspberry cake. Any sea food and all kinds of fish: tuna, cod, salmon, anchovies. It's perfect with sweet flavours, especially those with more sweet and dark flavour. Olives, cheeses, ham, sausages, smoked meats, mussels, clams.
I did try the vermouth with Macadamia nuts and Valencia almonds, each from Olives West Cork (via Neighbourfood). The suppliers say “addictive and really shouldn't be shared, these Spanish Almonds are crunchy and far superior than the typical almonds on offer. Lovely on their own, in rice dishes tossed with fresh herbs, salads or breads.”
The macadamia nuts come from Australia and are “top grade”. Crunchy on the outside and softer on the inside. The soft, buttery core immediately gives you an idea of it's oily content with 85% mono-unsaturated fatty acids. Quite delicious indeed.
It also paired very well with the creamy Wicklow Bán, a Brie, not so well with a Dunnes Stores extra mature Cheddar (not a reflection at all on the quality of the cheese).
Very versatile, as you can see. But enjoy it too as an aperitif, 40ml or so over ice, is a lovely introduction before sipping it neat with any of the above. I also found it makes a superb Negroni with the usual suspects Gin and Campari, each accounting for a third of the drink. Still experimenting - just as well it comes in a one litre bottle!
Ferraton Les Dionnières Ermitage (AC) 2006, 14%.
Popular in restaurants. Info at Mary Pawle Wines
Deep ruby is the colour with a lighter rim. Aromas are engaging from the minute you extract the cork (this one has been in place for 16 years!). Lots of dark fruit for me but also a floral cloak (violets). Amazing on the palate, complex. With a gentle power. The aromas continue of course and those fruits and spice are echoed on the palate. And the finish, with that spice outstanding, just goes on and on. Very Highly Recommended.
The Ferraton wine story begins in 1946 in the Rhone Valley with Jean Orëns Ferraton, a vigneron, and son of a vigneron. Michel, his son, inherited the same passion. He decided to give a new dimension to his father’s vineyards and that began in 1998 when Michel Chapoutier, a close friend of the family, shared his know-how. And from the old traditional ways, a path is laid to organic viticulture. An audacious step for Maison Ferraton Père & Fils.
Wine Folly say “the hill of Hermitage is famous for its emboldened Syrah wines that usually need around 5–10 years before you open them”. Reckon I timed this one fairly well. Probably too late to get your hands in this one now but the 2009 and 2010 are worth looking out for.
They continue: “Wines from L’Ermitage do not come cheap.” Ermitage? We need to reverse here, about 1,000 years. An ex crusader had become a hermit on the hill and so it was called Ermitage (meaning hermit’s hill).
But when the English came, it seems their tongues couldn’t quite handle Ermitage so they added the H. And the new name stuck and is still with us though the old name will appear on some labels as is the case here.
And then there’s Crozes-Hermitage. This is a larger area bordering the famous hill but without the hill’s favourable exposure to the sun and its wines are not as highly regarded. In good harvests though, the Crozes wines can be great value.
Speaking of names, the grape is known as Shiraz in Australia where it is the second most planted red variety. France tops the world rankings for the amount grown with Australia in second spot.
Aside from Syrah, the number one crop in eight of the Northern Rhone’s crus, the other famous grape here is Viognier, about the only grape grown in the other two crus, Condrieu and the minuscule Château-Grille.
Geek Bits
GRAPE VARIETY -100 % Syrah. 30 year old vines grafted in situ.
SOIL - Clay and limestone, with round pebbles at the surface.
South facing.
VINIFICATION - Grapes are destemmed. Maceration in concrete vats, used to slow the change in temperature, for about four weeks (depending on vintage). Extraction made by pumping over and punching down.
MATURING - In oak barrels for 14 to 18 months depending on the vintage (20 to 30% in new oak).
CORK COOKS INVITED TO JOIN ‘MOST IMAGINATIVE MEAL-MAKERS’ SEARCH
CORK COOKS INVITED TO JOIN ‘MOST IMAGINATIVE MEAL-MAKERS’ SEARCH
In a competition open to all the family, home cooks throughout Cork City and beyond are being invited to join a search to find Ireland’s most imaginative meal-makers.
Leading the search is well-known television cook, Donal Skehan, supported by banana importers Fyffes, whose previous collaborations led to the discovery of Ireland’s most creative banana bread bakers and banana dessert makers.
In the competition two years ago, Cobh mum, Gillian Carney was chosen as the nation’s overall ‘best banana bread baker’.
This year, Skehan has broadened his search to include any dish on the menu from first to final course, his invitation being to create the most delicious dish, savoury or sweet, in which a banana is the key ingredient.
Winning creations, to be judged by Skehan, will see rewards presented to the overall winner and best in category entries - including junior entrants, best breakfast, savoury, dessert, no bake and vegan. Entries close August 4th. Details on Facebook (www.facebook.com/
press release
BALLYMALOE HOUSE CHEF LAUNCHES SWEET BOOK WITH CREATIONS FROM THE DESSERT TROLLEY
BALLYMALOE HOUSE CHEF LAUNCHES SWEET BOOK
WITH CREATIONS FROM THE DESSERT TROLLEY
“Ballymaloe Desserts” is filled with stories and delicious recipes using local ingredients and tips
The historic Ballymaloe House in County Cork, renowned for top quality Irish food, has launched a book with a collection of its famous desserts from its dessert trolley. Ballymaloe Desserts is a celebration of sensational, sophisticated, yet achievable desserts and of the legacy and traditions behind them. Throughout the book, award winning pastry chef JR Ryall who’s based at the much-loved foodie destination, shares recipes currently used in the pastry kitchen at Ballymaloe House throughout the year.
Chapters feature recipes for an array of eye-catching sweet treats made with the finest of local and seasonal ingredients. JR’s methods are easy to follow and will help the home baker create 140 recipes from frozen desserts to biscuits to old-fashioned puddings. The style of the book will make it possible to perfect some Ballymaloe House favourites, such as a delightfully retro Ice-cream Bomb, Rhubarb and Custard Tart, or for the ultimate indulgence, Almond Meringue Gateau with Chocolate and Rum Cream.
JR said: "I’m absolutely thrilled to share the repertoire of recipes behind the Ballymaloe dessert trolley in this book. The idea for the project came about almost 10 years ago when Hazel Allen asked if I’d be interested in writing a little book to sell from the hall table in Ballymaloe House. I waited a few years, until I felt the time was right and I was ready, and now the idea for that little book has become something a bit bigger, and I’m very excited to share it with the world. Working with Phaidon as publisher and Cliodhna Prendergast as photographer has been a dream come true for me. I hope you all enjoy using this book as much as I enjoyed writing it."
JR joined Myrtle Allen in the kitchen at Ballymaloe House when he was still at school and has been there ever since he was 15 years old. In 2010 took the reins to oversee the dessert menu. Each year, he travels for two months in search of new culinary ideas around the world. He has also staged at The River Cafe, Ottolenghi, Chez Panisse, and Tartine Bakery, among other esteemed restaurants. Now an internationally acclaimed pastry chef, he has been working on Ballymaloe Desserts since the start of Lockdown.
Ballymaloe House, in County Cork, Ireland, is heralded as the birthplace of modern Irish cuisine. There, visitors are treated to JR’s daily array of seasonally inspired treats, wheeled through the dining room on a vintage dessert trolley. Recipes are built to be adaptable, highlighting Ballymaloe's commitment to seasonality and fresh local ingredients. His thoughtful advice appears throughout the book, revealing the best method for whisking egg whites, serving tips for adding major and 'wow' factor, and more.
Ballymaloe Desserts comes with a forward from world-renowned American Chef and writer David Tanis, and is available on pre-order at Phaidon.com
Ballymaloe House is situated on 300 acres of farmland and country house gardens in East Cork. It is still owned by the Allen family and Myrtle’s daughter offers residents complimentary house and family history tours. Ballymaloe House continues to offer the very best of Irish hospitality and seasonal locally sourced food and retains its reputation as an original Irish country house experience.
press release
Wednesday, July 6, 2022
May He Rest In Peace
The death has occurred of Thomas (Tom) Lyons
8 Norwood Court, Cobh, Cork / Glounthaune, Cork
Late of Rougrane, Glanmire (Glounthaune), Eircom and Leeside AFC Peacefully, at home surrounded by his loving wife and family. Beloved husband of Marie (née Twomey) much loved father of Mike, Tomás, Niamh and Liam and dear brother of Billy, Ann, Helen, Josephine and Mary. Sadly, missed and lovingly remembered by his wife, sons, daughter, grandchildren Oisín, Muireann, Tomás, Joe and Billy, daughters-in-law Kate, Lucy-Jane and Aoibhin, son-in-law Patrick, brothers-in-law, sisters-in-law, nephews, nieces, relatives and a wide circle of friends. May Tom Rest In Peace Tom will repose at his home 8 Norwood Court, Cobh,Co.Cork on Thursday 7thJuly from 5pm with prayers at 7pm. Reception into St. Colman’s Cathedral on Friday July 8th at 10.45am for 11am Requiem Mass followed by cremation at The Island Crematorium Ringaskiddy. Tom’s Requiem Mass will be livestreamed on www.cobhcathedralparish.ie Family flowers only, please. Donations in lieu, if desired, to Marymount University Hospital and Hospice. Messages of comfort and support can be left for Tom’s family in the condolence section below. |
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