Taste of the Week. “Windvane” Irish Cider

Taste of the Week

The Cider Mill “Windvane” Irish Cider Farmhouse Draught

Another revival (and celebration) of the Irish cider heritage by Mark Jenkinson, the man who brought us the outstanding Cockagee. This Windvane, named after a wind indicator once seen working on many Irish farmhouses, is smooth and rounded, crisp with “the right balance of tannins”. 

The pleasing mid-gold colour draws you in. The rich juiciness of the ripe fruit keeps you sipping and the luscious mellow finish tastes like more. A definite Taste of the Week as was his Cockagee  three years back.

ABV is  5% and, like most Irish craft drinks, is available in Bradley’s of Cork. It comes in a 500ml bottle and costs €4.50. Bradley’s also have the Cockagee.

The Cider Mill

Cornanstown House

Stackallan

Slane

Co.Meath

The web address on the bottle is given as www.thecidermill.ie but it was broken when I tried it at the time of writing.

Lingering by the Waterfall at Greene's Tasting Lunch

Lingering by the Waterfall at Greene's Tasting Lunch

Lamb 

We started lunch in Greene’s last Friday with a glass of Prosecco. This was a rather special lunch, one with a tasting menu, and the bubbles were included. Based on local and seasonal produce, as is always the case here, it was superb from start to finish.

Pickled mackerel snack

And, as often happens here, it was the smaller elements that caught the attention of the taste buds:   the pickled dillisk with the monkfish, the Sweet Woodruff Kefir, the carrot purée with the lamb, the flecks of apricot with the Coconut White Chocolate. Of course, the major items, the fish and the meat were superb as well.

After the bubbles, the breads arrived. And then a selection of “snacks”: pickled mackerel with dillisk and wild garlic, Purple potato chip with paté and elderflower jelly, Beef beignets with oriental mayonnaise, and a Mexican cracker sandwich. All small, all perfectly formed, all easily dispatched.

The starter was a little bit bigger: torched mackerel, asparagus, shallot, herb velouté, cucumber oil, dill leaf and wild garlic flowers. Now we were up and running, flavours galore yet all combining superbly. Time then for a Lychee and Lime (with Matcha Tea powder) palate cleanser.

Torched mackerel

Our main fish course was next: monkfish with a creamy dashi, spinach and that outstanding pickled dillisk, dashi powder and also a small cube or two of Morteaux sausage. A perfect melange of textures and flavours, immaculately presented and faultlessly cooked.

By the way, you don’t get a written menu. The offering can change from day to day so your server will tell you exactly what’s on your plate. And our server did that with precision and good humour and if there’s an error in these paragraphs than I’ll hold my hands up.

Dessert

Sorbet time now. We got a Lemon Sorbet with salt and, in a separate glass, a mouthful or two of that amazing Sweet Woodruff Kefir. Amazing on its own but even more so, surprisingly so, in combination with the sorbet.

We got lamb two ways in in our mains: the shoulder was cooked low and slow, the chop was also perfectly cooked, loved the carrot purée and the grilled asparagus and carrot. Not a spud in sight and it wasn’t missed either as we happily murmured our way through this delightful combination.

“Two desserts,” our server announced. “One big, one small.” Woodruff and rhubarb were the main elements in a dish that included espuma, meringue and a ginger sorbet. Big yes but also light and, at this stage, eminently digestible!

The truffles (the “small” dessert!)  came with their excellent coffee. One was a Coconut White Chocolate perked up with those littles bit of apricot and the other was a Dark Chocolate juiced up with a drop of Jameson. Cheers to chef Bryan and to all the team at Greene’s. Quite a lunch!

• Quite often it pays to keep an eye on social media. I spotted somewhere a few months back that Greene’s were selling a voucher for this lunch at a 40% discount. I’m glad I pounced then!

Greene’s Restaurant 

48 McCurtain Street

Cork

021 455 2279

In Spanish Wine Week: A Couple of Compelling Spanish Reds

A Couple of Compelling Spanish Reds

El Coto Crianza Rioja (DOC) Garnacha 2015, 14.5%, €15.05 Karwig Wines

The first thing you’ll notice about this wine is that Garnacha is displayed prominently on the front label. This is to distinguish it from the more usual Tempranillo. El Coto has six or seven vineyards in Rioja and these grapes come from their Los Almendros vineyard.

They say that Garnacha was, for years, “a disparaged variety due to its complex viniculture, but prepared and aged in barrels matched to its delicate and complex character, it results in very pleasant wines, with a lot of fruit and a good body, very much in line with the demands of the consumer of today.”

I certainly liked it very much. It has a mid-ruby colour with a lovely sheen. Pretty intense red fruit aromas, hints of vanilla. Juicy and fruity (cherry and more), fresh with balsamic notes, good acidity, fine tannins in a long finish. A vibrant harmonious wine, easy-drinking and Very Highly Recommended.

The character of the fresh fruit has been carefully respected during its 12 months in 225-litre American oak barrels (followed by six months in bottle). It comes to you silky and velvety with good intensity. Serve at 16 to 18 degrees. Perfect, they say, with white meat, certain fish (especially cod), veal and mild cheese.

Casa los Frailes Trilogia Valencia 2011, 14.5%, €19.00 Mary Pawle Wines, 

This compelling organic wine from the south east of Spain is a blend of Monastrell (70%), Cabernet Sauvignon (20) and Tempranillo (10) and aged for 12 months in Hungarian oak. 

It has a dark ruby colour and the legs are slow to clear. Rich powerful aromas with blackcurrant perhaps the more prominent. Super concentrated flavours of ripe fruits, fresh acidity and more than a touch of spice. This layered award winner finishes dry and long. Could be kept for a few years yet but it gives great pleasure right now and is Very Highly Recommended. 

Casa Los Frailes “was certified organic in 2000, being one of the very first ones in Spain. 15 years later, we are convinced that we do not only need to respect and sustain the land, but also transform it and make it a livelihood. As a result, we embrace biodynamic agriculture as an inspiration pattern and model.”

This is Spanish Wine Week in Ireland. Check here for details of the main events.

Delicious Food and No Plastic at Kinsale Street Feast

Kinsale Street Feast

The All-Ireland Chowder Cook-Off will take pride of place in Kinsale today (2.00pm) but yesterday it was the turn of the Street Feast. Lots of good food and fun and a big "NO!" to  plastic. I got down there early but not early enough to get one of the 150 lobster rolls that Bastion sold out in an hour! But there were plenty of other excellent offerings to taste and enjoy.

Best in show. This superb bowl of Chorizo and Bean Stew was my favourite on the day, served up by Chef Daniel Horgan from Man Friday. It was full of flavour and helped lessen the chill from the wind and good value too at €4.00. Also enjoyed the Fish Crumble from Fishy Fishy, the Mussels with Thai style sauce from Finns' Table, and the Moroccan Lamb Stew from Max. Most restaurants had at least two dishes on offer.

Julie Finn (right) serving.

"Not too much of that street food down here!"

The Barrett burgers were popular!

High Tide

Claire O'Brien (Gan Gluten) greets an old friend

Fishy Fishy's Fish Crumble

Gubbeen chorizo and cheese from Black Pig Wine Bar.

Street corner musicians

Bastion Sold out their lobster rolls in double quick time. But they did have Prosecco on tap!

Gourmet Pantry

Choices!

Amuse Bouche

Of course, many old wines disappointed. You never knew, until you opened it, how a bottle would be. When Broadbent tried an 1875 Margaux, he rhapsodised about its “extraordinary nose like crystallised violets and clean bandages!” At another event, however, he glumly lamented the state of an 1858 Mouton, wincing at its “incredibly awful creosote, tarry smell” before jotting in his notebook the ultimate condemnation” “Not tasted”. 

from The Billionaire’s Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace (2008). Highly Recommended.

The Celtic Ross Hotel. A West Cork Jewel

The Celtic Ross Hotel 

A West Cork Jewel

Well placed to visit
the treasures of the West Cork coast

Situated between Clonakilty and Skibbereen, the Celtic Ross is a jewel in the West Cork coastal necklace. This is a gem that exudes warmth in every aspect of its hospitality: reception, touring help, accommodation, food and drink. 

The hotel overlooking the Rosscarbery estuary has a splendid location and not just for the immediate views. It is one of the most central places from which to visit the West Cork highlights, from Clonakilty to the peninsulas in the West.

And just on its doorstep it has the beautiful villages of Glandore and Union Hall and coastal walks galore. And if you like a bit of height as you stretch the legs why not head up to Carrigfadda where you get the most splendid 360 degrees views inland and over the sea.

Warren Strand, within walking distance

And another thing about the Celtic Ross, under manager Neil Grant, is their huge involvement in and support for local events, including A Taste of West Cork, the Clonakilty Street Carnival and the prestigious West Cork Sports Awards to name but three. 

And more recently, they have thrown their weight behind a new initiative, the West Cork Farm Tours, that gives you the chance to visit one of five farms in the area. We did a tour recently and you may check it out here.

There is a wide range of outdoor activities available in the area including horse riding, cycling, golf, pitch and putt, woodland trails, garden visits and water sports such as kayaking and stand up paddle boarding.

Dinner in the Celtic Ross

And after all that touring and walking and other activities, you might well like to relax in their leisure facilities.  Let the aches of the day evaporate in the steam room or sauna, take an invigorating swim (15m pool) or unwind with a hot stone massage. As they say: “When you visit us you’ll find everything you need to make your stay as laid-back or as active as you want it to be.”

Celtic Ross is an active participant in the delightful Clonakilty Street Carnival

They support local drink producers in the hotel bar. Whiskey from the West Cork Distillery in Skibbereen and gins from the Beara Distillery are given pride of place here along with quite a few other Irish spirits. And local breweries too are highlighted with beers from Baltimore’s West Cork Brewery and Mitchelstown’s Eight Degrees available, some on draught, some in bottle. And when the sun shines, they have outdoor facilities where you may snack and sip.

Breakfast

And the food is splendid here, its reputation gradually built up over the past few years by hard-working General Manager Neil Grant and Executive Head Chef Alex Petit. Alex now has the considerable assistance of Head Chef Shane Deane. We enjoyed a terrific dinner here recently, details here. And we were able to choose between two very tempting menus indeed. Breakfast is excellent too, mainly from an assisted buffet where everything is kept at optimum temperature. 

They have 66 bedrooms and many enjoy beautiful water views over Rosscarbery Lagoon or Rosscarbery Bay. As well as the double, twin and triple rooms, they also have family rooms, interconnecting rooms and rooms with built in accessibility features.

During our recent stay (March 2019), our room had a view over the lagoon and had everything we needed, including tea-making facilities, iron, hair-dryer, safe. Of course, it had a splendid comfortable bed and was restfully decorated. The bathroom too was top notch. Indeed, the room was faultless, just like the well-maintained hotel itself.

You might see these two on a West Cork Farm Tour

You may check the room rates here at their website. It may be getting on in the year now but do keep an eye out for offers. I spotted my chance in a January Black Friday sale and the B&B cost me about fifty six euro. A very good deal indeed!

Also on this 24-hour trip:
A day out with West Cork Farm Tours
Super Food at Ardfield's Mountain Bar
Celtic Ross Dinner

Gilbeys with Bibendum Showcase Their New Wine Offering At Irish Venues.

Gilbeys with Bibendum Showcase Their New Wine Offering At Irish Venues.

Michele, proud of the Perusini wines

Gilbeys and Bibendum introduced their new partnership to existing and potential Munster customers at a major tasting in the Kingsley Hotel last Tuesday. This week’s other tastings saw them in Galway (yesterday) and, today Thursday, they'll be in Dublin's Merrion Hotel. As part of the C&C Group’s ownership, the partnership will combine the best of Bibendum’s premium and artisanal wines with the established Gilbeys wine brands popular in the Irish market.

In a press release from Bibendum, Gilbeys Sales Director Duncan Millar said the partnership is about opening new doors. “Bibendum’s portfolio offers a huge variety of countries of origin that you don’t really find in Ireland. Access to these wines gives us the opportunity to expand conversations with luxury hotels, Michelin-star restaurants and premium, wine-led venues.”

“Through partnership with Bibendum, we’re hoping to increase the business we do on the island of Ireland – doubling the wine business over the next three years.”

Michel, keeping the French end up!

And they have certainly acquired some excellent wines, many of them on show at the Kingsley, a showing that was well attended. First up were the bubbles, from France, Spain and Italy. I said to myself: Why not England? 

The prompt had come from seeing some Nyetimber bottles on the first stand and an invitation to sample. Nyetimber, where accomplished Limerick winemaker Dermot Sugrue got his first job, are one of the pioneers of English sparkling wine, one of the first to use the classic Champagne grapes of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.

And these three featured in their Classic Cuvée with its fine bubbles. complex aromas (more than three years on lees)  and an intense palate with a long finish. Superb! As was the Rosé which was every bit as charming. Let us hope that Brexit doesn’t throw up any thorns.

The French are never far from the English and I started the still wines there with a 100% Chardonnay, not from Burgundy but from Languedoc. The Jeff Carrel Morillon Blanc Pays D’Aude has a surprisingly good structure, a little hint of the wood, very dry and recommended for the likes of scallops and foie gras.

The Bago Amarelo Albarino was very approachable, fresh, clean and fruity, more or less at the good standard we’ve come to expect from Rias Baixas. More surprising was the Terras do Cigarrron Godello Monterrei, intense on the nose and palate and with a long persistent finish, this one certainly took my fancy. “People just need to get to know the grape”, said my enthusiastic server.

Some impressively fresh tasting wines from Germany and Austria also, with Slovenia, Croatia, Turkey and Hungary, getting a look in at the same table. The pair I enjoyed were the Peth Wetz Crauer Burgunder Rheinhessen and the Singing Gruner Veltliner. The GV is produced by  Laurenz V a firm dedicated exclusively to the production of world-class wines from the famous Austrian grape.

Winter in New Zealand

I found another super white in the Americas table, with Des King in charge. This was the Norman Hardie Chardonnay from Ontario. The vineyard is close to Niagara and the wine, unfiltered, is really beautiful with a caressing mouthfeel. Norm is a vinous celebrity the world over, and his wines are served at top restaurants in every major city in Canada, America and across the world.

Not easy being a wine-maker here. The vineyards are located in Prince Edward County and they employ unusual methods of protecting vines during the freezing winter months, when temperatures can plummet to -20C. This process involves surrounding the vines with a small trellis, which is then covered with earth, burying the vines so that they can survive the worst of the cold.

Tanunda

And more excellent whites from down under, two featuring Viognier. I loved the uncomplicated Millton Riverpoint from Gisbourne (New Zealand). This organic gem is nice, soft, delicate - very good company indeed.

Over then to Chateau Tanunda in Australia’s Barossa for a sunny blend of Marsanne, Roussane and Viognier. Nicely scented and, after 11 months on lees, almost creamy. A harmonious wine and another to take home! I should also mention another shy one, soft and smooth too, and that is the Prophet’s Rock Pinot Gris, very nice!

The Hunter’s Chardonnay, from Marlborough, is excellent, very well balanced and mellow, 15% per cent raised in new oak. Finished the whites here with the top notch Craggy Range Sauvignon Blanc, a Marlborough classic. Unoaked, hard to beat.

Some of the Italian wines at the Kingsley

Time then for a trip through the reds and, I’ll tip you off that most were Pinot Noir. There was no Pinot Noir at the Italian table but there was no getting past Michele either. He plied me two of his reds. The first was a Perusini Merlot from Friuli-Venezia. Using their own clone, they produce a fruit packed juice. The second, their Rosso di Postiglione (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot), is more restrained, fresher, more acidic.

Concentration!

There was a terrific trio of Pinot Noirs in the down under corner, beginning with the Prophet’s Rock Home Vineyard, fruity with a smashing body, really excellent.

Expected good things from the Craggy Range PN from Martinborough and they arrived in force in this unoaked gem, lighter of colour and more fruit forward than the Prophet, pretty perfect.

Pinot Noir in Yering

And the high standard continued with the switch to Oz where I encountered the Little Yering Pinot Noir, very impressive and close to matching the Craggy Range. Love to try the three of them in a longer session.

I finished this mini-Pinot tour in France, not in Burgundy but in Languedoc-Roussillon, with a now busy Michel pouring from the Jeff Carrel Pinot Noir en Coteaux bottle, fresh, fragrant and juicy. By the way, Jeff Carrell is noted for offering great value in both red and white.

Taste of the Week. Killenure Castle Dexter Beef Salami

Taste of the Week

Killenure Castle Dexter Beef Salami

Taste of the Week is a gem: Killenure Castle Dexter Beef Single Estate Salami, to give it its full title. The cattle are raised in Dundrum, Co. Tipperary.

It is salami and you may eat it in much the same way as you’d enjoy any other salami. But this is not just another salami as it has got its own amazing texture and flavour thanks to the heritage beef and “a heritage curing process”.

Killenure have returned the native Irish breed to its “original birthplace in Dundrum”. The salami is not the only product. Watch out for their “Boutique Beef” and “Dexter Dripping”. Nothing is wasted: they also do leather and bone crafts. Must see if I can visit!

Glad I recently ordered the #IrishFood hamper to raise awareness & funds for #RearingtoGo @TeacTom via @gingerbreadmiss , as that’s where I came across the salami. Not too sure about stockists but you may purchase direct from the castle.

Killenure Castle 

Knockavilla,

Dundrum,

County Tipperary.

• E: info@killenure.com
• T: + 353 (0) 62 71498
• M: + 353 (0) 87 640 2664

Ninja Sushi Bento Can Brighten Up Your Day!

Ninja Sushi Bento Can Brighten Up Your Day!

There’s a new ninja in town, hanging out in Daunt’s Square (opposite the Roundy) since the start of the year.

They do sushi here, lots of it. Buy yourself a box, take it home or eat in-house (there are a few seats). They also do Hot Bento, again many choices including Japanese Beef Curry, Chicken Kara-age and Seafood Cha Han. Various ramens also and a selection of salads, even desserts (anyone for Dorayaki Green Tea Custard?)

I called in there at the weekend. Previously, manager Hilda McCarthy told me that the best time to come in is from 12-3, “because our sushi is fresh made on the day, once they are sold out they are gone!”.

The place is beautifully maintained, both inside and outside (where there are also a few seats. I was in at twelve on the dot and the display of sushi was eye-catching. I intended to bring mine home and eat it out in the garden with the sun shining so I was concentrating on the Bento. (A Bento by the way is the word for a decorated Japanese Lunch box).

If you’d rather make up your own selection, that is easily done because most of the elements and others pieces are sold individually. For instance, a Sushi rice ball with a slice of fish will cost between €1.00 and €1.35 and there are about 20 different ones available. Check out the menu for other choices including Hosomaki and Uramaki, also Futomaki and Temaki. There are also a few Sushi Wraps available.

With guidance from Hilda, I took a look at the Sushi Bentos. Six different sets were on offer, some small, some larger.  There is a very tempting Salmon Lover’s Set but I settled for the Hana Set where the main feature was the half dozen Sushi Nigiri (fish slices on rice balls). Much more in it as well as you can see from the photo. All for €12.00. Last week also they had an offer of two free healthy drinks with each Bento purchase. Vegetarian and vegan options also available.

It all went down very well in the garden, a delicious lunch. Extras such as toasted seeds, soya beans, wasabi, ginger, and soy sauce are all included in the price. And those free drinks, a blend of apple and pineapple juices, were gorgeous.

They open at noon every day, including Sunday, and closing time has been extended (from April 1st) to 9.00pm. Keep an eye on their Facebook page for updates and offers. And do call in; enjoy the food and the friendly and helpful service.

Ninja Sushi Bento

1 Grand Parade

Cork

021 241 1878

www.NinjaSushiBento.ie

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Ninja-sushi-bento-348466749318091/ 

Enjoyable Lifeboat Inn Wine Dinner. Fabulous Food. Superb Wines. Best of Company!

Enjoyable Lifeboat Inn Wine Dinner

Fabulous Food. Superb Wines. Best of Company.

Monkfish and Ripasso de Valpolicella 

I think many of the customers at last week’s superb Rizzardi wine dinner in Courtmacsherry’s Lifeboat Inn had Amarone on their minds. And when the 3CRU 2013 came, it didn’t disappoint. It was introduced, like all the previous wines, by Giuseppe Rizzardi and he gave us a few tips.

“Don’t decant,” he said. “By all means, open it a few hours in advance but don’t decant! Also, don’t serve it too warm. It is our most prestigious wine. Amarone is not a grape, not a region, it is a method, a process. The grapes are picked and then put into boxes that hold 4 to 5 kgs. Some 15,000 to 18,000 boxes are left to dry out in a large room in a method known as appassimento. It takes 2 to 3 months and you end up with less fruit but with more concentrated tannins, more colour, more sugar. It then spends two years in barrel.”

The Rizzardi version, a 2013, was excellent and fantastic match with the Beef Cheek and the pairing was heartily endorsed by the winemaker. But Giuseppe told us that not all Amarones are the same. “Too often is it very sweet and that sweetness covers the lack of other qualities.”

Giuseppi, enjoyed the craic
in Courtmac

Giuseppe is quite familiar with Ireland and did a few summer jobs here in the 1990s and of course he's a regular visitor now to O'Brien's Wine, his distributors here. On arrival the guests were treated to a glass of Rizzardi Prosecco, the famous sparkling wine made from the Glera grape. “This one is smooth and dry, with a little bit bit of character.” He told us they use it as a base for cocktails, “especially Bellini.”

The Italian enjoyed the food and was intrigued by the local Mozzarella in our starter. Pinot Grigio is quite a well-known Italian white and we started our meal with that. “It is not barrel aged, is quite light, made with fruit from the region of Soave. It’s ideal as an aperitif and will go well with soups.” And it went very well indeed with our delicious opener.

Indeed Giuseppe, like the rest of us, was every impressed with the starer, surprised to hear that the cheese was locally sourced “very interesting texture, very impressed”. He told us that a lot of Soave, our next wine, is made but much of it is just for everyday. Theirs comes from a beautiful fortified village in the Classico area and the Gargenega vines are grown on volcanic soil. “Again it is unoaked, a little bit of Chardonnay is blended in.” And he advised against serving this too cold. “You get more flavour as the temperature goes up.” It was paired with the scallops, local and absolutely superb.

So don’t serve the Amarone too warm, don’t serve the Soave too cool. What next? Well a red wine with fish! And the Roast Monkfish paired with the 2013 Ripasso de Valpolicella was a match made in a Courtmacsherry heaven. Again, Ripasso is a method with the grapes “refermented on the skins of the Amarone and then 12 months in big barrels”. “This is a red wine that can be poured cool, at about 14 degrees,” he advised. “Great freshness and acidity and it provides a link between simple Valpolicella and Amarone.” 

And it did indeed go very well with that splendid Monkfish dish. Front of house here is David O’Halloran and he had been giving us some extra details on the dishes. He told us it was a “purposeful decision” to pair the Ripasso and the Monkfish “to show that fish and red wine will go together”. Referring to the Amarone he said that here, in a reversal of the norm, they picked the food to go with the wine, not the other way round. Chef Martin Buckley got out later on and thanked Giuseppe, saying “it was special to have him here tonight”. 

And there was another surprise when it came to the dessert, an excellent chocolate offering as the wine was, believe it or not, a Merlot, the 2016 Clos Roareti. An unusual choice. And an unusual project, according to Giuseppe, that began in 1999 in a region near Verona where there was no Merlot. But they succeeded and produced their first bottles in 2006. “Now (we were drinking the 2016) the vines have matured, there is a good richness and concentration but not too much. It has spent 12 months in barrel and this 2016 is still a baby. Production is limited and the bottles are individually numbered.”

The Menu

Heritage Tomato, Macroom Mozzarella, Hazelnut, Balsamic Dressing

Pinot Grigio 2018

West Cork Scallops, Parsnip, Gubbeen Chorizo, Blood orange

Soave DOP Classico 2016

Roast Monkfish, Risotto Nero, Parma Ham, Confit Tomato

Valpolicella Ripasso 2013

Haulie’s Beef Cheek, potato, Wild Garlic, Grilled Sprouting Broccoli and Carrot

3CRU Amarone della Valpolicella Classico 2013

Guinness and Chocolate Cake, Salted Caramel Ice Cream

Clos Roareti Rosso Veronese (IGT) 2016

The Lifeboat Inn
Courtmacsherry
Co. Cork.
For more on the Rizzardi wines, please check the O'Brien website