Life's A Beach in Arcachon

Life's A Beach in Arcachon

Visited one or two of the local beaches today. Spent some time here
at Plage Pereire, west of Arcachon and facing Cap Ferret.
Great facilities here, including ample car parking.
no shortage of bicycle lanes and lanes too for
walkers and some well maintained green areas for picnicers.
After a few hours in the sun, we walked down
though the next beach, Plage des Abatilles, to
Moulleau and it's beach. Back then to the car and took
the short trip to Pyla before heading "home".
No inclination to head out to dinner this evening - temperatures
are touching the 30 mark at 6.00pm - so we've called to the
nearby traiteur and picked up a few tempting pieces
including a pork curry as main course. Bon Appétit!

Hang gliders visible on the magnificent Dune du Pyla.
Picture taken from the pier in Moulleau

Notre Dame in Moulleau.

On Top of St Emilion

On Top of St Emilion

Mon 16th June 2014

St Emilion chateau, from the tower

Finally made it to St Emilion and too did tout le monde. The season has started here for sure and the tourists, including this Irish pair, are out in force. And the wine-shops are ready, ready to deal in dollars or yen, en premiere and any wine investment you fancy.

Not for me. First priority was to find a parking space and this we did, within yards of the local Maison du Vin. They have a big selection here but no tastings. Not very well up on St Emilion so I stuck to 2009 and 2010. Had some notion that Chateau Haut Rocher was a good one and got some, though the most expensive purchase was the 2010 Chateau Haut La Grace Dieu. Also picked up a few cheaper ones from Lussac.

St Emilion vineyard

With the tourists in, prices are up. For instance, an espresso here costs €2.50 as against €1.50 in Arcachon. Don't think it cost me that to get to the top of St Emilion. Had a lovely chat with the young man in charge of the entrance to the tower - he is coming to Cork as he loves the Irish women. It was a fantastic climb to the top of the Bell Tower of the Monolithic Church (I kid you not!) with some great views out over the Cote Pavie slope and more.

St Emilion

Much of St Emilion is classed as Cultural Landscape by UNESCO since 1999. Has France stolen a march with these UNESCO bods or has Ireland been slow off the mark?

Back down then for a visit to the ancient church and its intact cloisters, also a stroll round that part of the town, some slippery shiny paving stones there in the narrow streets (bring decent footwear), and a quick look at an art Expo before heading for “home”.

Passed through Entre Deux Mers today

 Earlier, in Podensac, we had renewed acquaintance with our friendly server in the Graves Maison du Vin. We loved our initial haul here and that drew us back. One of the stars this time is the Rochemorin blanc 2010. We bought a few bottles for just €11.95, knowing that the same bottle cost us fifty euro in a local Arcachon restaurant (Le Patio). As we left with our haul, our friendly server, another who now wants to come to Cork, gave me a “Daddy Day” pressie, some Graves drop stops. Merci beaucoup!

Graves vineyards, near Podensac

As we approached Arcachon, we were getting a little worried about dinner as many restaurants and shops close on Monday. But our traiteur friend in Chez la mere Catherine came to the rescue with his plat du jour, Axoa de veau (€10.12 for two), a Basque dish that we regularly enjoyed during a stay two years back in Hendaye. He also supplied dessert: Fondant a L’Orange (€5.60 again for two). Sipping a superb refreshing Chateau Bauduc rosé (by Gavin Quinney) as I anticipate dinner and maybe a World Cup match (must check what’s on!).

A bientôt!

Easy on a Sunday. Man who Walked Above Water.

Easy on a Sunday. Man who Walked Above Water.

Sun 15th June 2014

While taking a walk around the outer road (Quai Goslar) of the Arcachon marina this morning, something caught my eye out in the water. Not a boat - there were quite a few. But this looked like a man above the water without any visible means of staying up. It was a bit far for the camera but the lens picked him up and showed the secret. He had me fooled for a while! See the pictures

It was an interesting walk in the sun, though this day wouldn't prove quite as warm as the previous few, with exceptions such as our front garden, down in a dip and quite a sun trap. I’ve mentioned the amount of boats in Arcachon quite often since coming here and today I saw something unusual. In one big yard in the marina area, there were two huge “shelves”, three boats high, all ready for sale I presume or else a way of docking them as the marina is almost constantly full.

Look closely at the photos and you'll see a tube under the man, probably clearest in the bottom shot.
This is connected to a boat and provides the propulsion.

Continued our walk to the very end where this outer road meets the exit neck of the marina. The traffic there, inwards and outwards, was amazing, all kinds of boats, engine and sail driven, work boats yes but mainly pleasure craft today, some very small, some quite large, all in all quite a spectacle that kept us entertained for a spell.

Off the shelf. Boats to go!

To our rear, and sharing this slightly elevated viewpoint, stands a large monument, dedicated to those who have perished at sea.. Apparently, the local fishermen say a prayer as they sail out. On this good day and in the sheltered bassin, the pleasure boat people didn't seem to be visibly worried at all and only a few children wore life jackets.

Comings and goings

All this walking - we would go to the beach in the afternoon - makes one think of food and we called to out traiteur and picked up some Veal in Rice for dinner. By the way, just to return to yesterdays Rabbit with Prunes. We got a good chunk for €12.90 at the market and had enough left over to serve as lunch today and it was just as delicious cold.

The monument.

Lazy Saturday. In Beer, Banish the Bland!

Lazy Saturday. In Beer, Banish the Bland!

Sat 14th June 2014

When in France, we tend to take it easy at the weekends, avoiding the crowds in the popular areas and the traffic on the major roads. Today followed that pattern. A late rise was followed by a leisurely visit to the local market where Stuffed Tomatoes were bought for lunch and Roast Rabbit for dinner.

On the way home, we called to a local speciality shop and bought a few presents and also a few bottles of local craft beer by Aquitaine brewery E2B. Enjoying one of those now, the red beer, as I type. The earlier one was compared to a Pale Ale. Both so far are excellent but different. The Red Beer, for instance, contains black grape juice and cane sugar, so you get different flavours. But that is par for the course and one of the attractions of craft beer. In English or in French, the message is the same. Banish the big and the bland!

With the aromas of the Roast Rabbit rising from the kitchen below, I don't want to go on too long with this post. Just a line or two to say we spent the afternoon on the beach and in the waters of the Bassin. Surprisingly windy but that gave a welcome cooling and the waters are warm.

The amount of boats in the marina here is staggering and even more staggering is the traffic on the Bassin. In daylight hours, between fishermen’s boats, excursion boats, ferries, yachts, even jet-skis, there is never a dull moment on the water.

Bye for now. That rabbit is proving irresistible!

In the Medoc today. €1439.80 wine. €14.00 lunch.

In the Medoc today. €1439.80 wine. €14.00 lunch.

Fri 13th June 2014

Cherry Cake

I have neglected talking to you about the Menu du Jour in French cafés. You’ll have no choice but you’ll have a very satisfying meal for somewhere between ten and fourteen euro.

Our latest example came today in the Medoc wine village of Listrac. They had a board outside offering the Plat du Jour for €7.50. We had already bought some local wine there, from the small Listrac and Moulis appellations, before sitting down for lunch in Le Relais de Listrac. The Menu du Jour offered the first two courses for €11.00 euro, the dessert for just three.

The opening salad was promising. The main part was a tasty duck terrine and the salad leaves were fresh and every well dressed and the gherkins added to both the textures and the flavours.

Starter

The main, Sautée de Veau, was a little gem. The perfectly cooked veal was accompanied by some excellent Medoc mushrooms (full of flavour) and a spoon or two of mash, all in a lovely sauce.

We were offered desserts off the other menus but I had a feeling that the one cooked for today would be good and so it proved. It was a cherry cake, according to the friendly waitress. In fairness it is packed with cherries and served with a cold custard. I think we met everyone in the house, including the chef who shook hands with the two of us as we left.

Chateau Haut Breton Larigaudiere

By the way, not too much white in the Medoc but do look out for the Chateau Saransot Dupre 2012. This is a quote from the chateau website: The Château produces an excellent dry white wine from old Sémillion, Sauvignon and Muscadelle vines. The harvest is vinified and aged in oak barrels. This wine, which enjoys a great popularity among connoisseurs recalls the fine white wines that Listrac produced in the second half of the 19th century, wines that were almost as famous as the commune's reds. Well worth a try. If the proprietor of the Relais had produced it earlier we might have bought it but by then our reds were safe in the car.

The roads in the Medoc were quiet, just as they had been last Monday and you wonder what kind of landscape you'd see here if there wasn't a wine industry. We headed for the village of Margaux, one of the capitals of that industry, and for Maison du Vin in particular.

On the wine route

The tourist office is also incorporated in this fine building and they sell a large range of the local wine. But they don't do tastings here. We worked our way through the display. By the way, the bottles are empty. I checked the Chateau Margaux Premier Grande Cru Classé 2005!

We reckoned Margaux could do without our custom but we did buy a selection across the range, including a Chateau Kirwan 2010. We Irish have to stick together!

Got a few photos around the town and, with the temperatures again up around the 30s, headed “home” to Arcachon, buying a kilo of mussels (€4.95) on the way. That should keep us going through the World Cup. A bientot!

Sun, Sand and Steps

Sun, Sand and Steps

Arcachon. Thursday 12th June

From the top of the Cap Ferret Lighthouse, a view of the "neck" of the Arcachon Bassin Bassin d'Arcachon Tourisme On the far side, you see Arcachon itself; on the near side are boats just lifted off the mud by the incoming tide at Cap Ferret. On the right, in the middle band, you can just make out some oysters beds.

The mighty old sun is still hanging around these parts. The sand is always here. And the steps are the 258 it took me to get to the top of the 174 foot high Phare du Cap Ferret. Tough enough going up but the views from the lighthouse were fantastic, in over the Bassin itself, then towards Arcachon and the magnificent Dune du Pyla and finally out over the Atlantic. The Cap Ferret peninsula, a thin strip of sandy land, shelters the Bassin from the worst of the ocean weather.

We had the option (still have!) of going across by ferry from Arcachon but thought the car might be handy for the lighthouse (it was), so we made the trip around the Bassin, avoiding the major roads and taking it nice and handy. Those fantastic views, both from the beach below and from the tower above, made it all worthwhile.

Another view towards Arcachon (above). The white sands of the
Dune of Pyla stand out (below)

The tide was out when we first arrived. So we carried the gear out towards the edge, passing little and big pools left behind by the tide, with kids and adults paddling and walking in them. Then we went in for a dip but we were hardly in when our gear were threatened by the incoming tide. So we had to beat a hasty  retreat as did many more. 

Their boats may have been stranded but still some fishermen were working, bringing bags of oysters by tractor to their boats for distribution on the Bassin once the water was high enough.

Back  to base then and the first beer of the holiday,  Kronenbourg blonde. She’s cool and that’s what’s needed right now, the street gauges showing the temperatures at 30 degrees (the main reason why we didn't go to Bordeaux today).

Starter and Dessert

This evening’s food comes from the local traituer, Mickael Levacher (Charcuterie Rotisserie du Port). He operates on Boulevard de la Plage, opposite Le Patio (last night’s restaurant). For starters we have a lovely savoury tart, including tomato, onion and cheese and with the anchovy on top;Veal with olives provides the main plate, while dessert is a promising Apricot Tart. Looking forward to that!

Superb Le Patio Dinner. But how does a 12 euro wine become a 50 euro one?

Superb Le Patio Dinner.

But how does a 12 euro wine become a 50 euro one?

Day 10 in Arcachon

Le Patio Restaurant, a couple of hundred yards from our base in Arcachon, comes highly recommended. Even Mr Michelin is a fan. We strolled down there in the evening sunshine yesterday (had made a reservation with Maitre D’ Sebastien on the morning) and now we are big fans of the food and the friendly service.

This is the midweek menu (€35.00pp)

Les Huîtres d’Olivier Laban : Les 9 Huîtres du Bassin

or

Tomate, Mozzarella, Basilic : Pain rôti au Beurre salé, Profiteroles de Tomates, Pignons de Pin et Ail croustillant

-------------------

Cabillaud : Le dos rôti, Caviar d’Aubergine et Sorbet Fenouil, Jus à l’Absinthe

or

Boeuf : Tartare de Bœuf et Foie Gras cru,

Arrosé d’un Bouillon chaud au Kafir et Artichaut Breton

-------------------

Pressé de Chèvre au Concombre confit

Ou

Sélection de Fromages (Rénald Fromager affineur)

-------------------

Cerises : soufflé chaud Pistache et Cerise

ou

Poire : Pochée, Crémeux Nougat et Chocolat, Glace Vanille-Whisky Petites Friandises

I started with the oysters while CL enjoyed her Tomato and Mozzarella (especially the surprise of the presentation). More presentation surprises and more fine dining came with our main course. We each choose the Cod (Cabillaud). It was superb overall. The fennel sorbet added an unusual yet complementary element and I enjoyed the Absinthe sauce!

Again, we each choose the Selection of Cheeses, all famous French names, including Reblochon, Chevre, Tomme de Savoie, Livarot, Bleu de Gex (maybe), and more. Desserts were also fabulous. CL was surprised by the size of her Cherry and Pistachio souffle but that didn't hinder her as she polished it off while I enjoyed the combination of chocolate with my poached pear.

Overall, we thought the food was very good value. The drinks though raised an eyebrow or two. Two gorgeous Kirs cost €18.00. But the big eyebrow raiser was the wine. The Chateau de Rochemorin was fifty euro and one of the less expensive on the list. It is from the Pessac Leognan AOC and was absolutely delightful. But the delight changed a bit when we got back to the house and, while browsing through some literature, saw that the same 2010 bottle of white was on sale at Maison des Vins de Graves for €11.95! How does 11.95 become 50.00?

Before all that, we had been out enjoying the sunshine and indeed, for a change, spent some real time on the beach. Around midday, we headed south to Biscarrosse-Plage, half-intending to visit a nearby Seaplane Museum if the weather stayed dull. But the sun came out and so to the lively beach. Lots of waves rolling in from the Atlantic, great for the surfers but not so good for swimming. Actually, I don't think I saw anyone swimming. Lots of people in the water but just walking and jumping around.

Later in the afternoon, we went inland to the town of Biscarrosse itself which is situated at the northerly end of a large lake, a beautiful one. Here we lingered a while, relaxing in the sun and watching some of the activity on the water.

Bordeaux’s Chateau Bauduc. Hail and Terroir. My 159 Steps.

Bordeaux’s Chateau Bauduc. Hail and Terroir. My 159 Steps.

Day 9 in Arcachon 10th June

Gavin Quinney knew about terroir but was somewhat sceptical when he started winemaking at Chateau Bauduc fifteen years back. Hail stones weren't in the wine equation then. But they sure are now. Fifteen years on, Englishman Gavin believes in hail and terroir. And much more besides.

Gavin checking Merlot

Chateau Bauduc is found in the area known as Entre deux Mers, the wide strip of land between the Dordogne and the Gironde. Bauduc couldn't be more entre. Gavin, and his dogs, took us around his 25 hectares of vines, some quite young, some quite old (Semillon planted in 1947). Vines are like people, mused Gavin as he pointed out the gnarly old Semillon and its lack of vigour (though not necessarily of quality). Seems though, they will not be here much longer.

This is a working vineyard and in between Gavin had chats with various people - work goes on. And it is detailed work, labour intensive, hands on. He pointed to his many rows of vines, including Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and Cabernet Sauvignon, and said each single plant would be visited by man or machine at least twenty times over the year

After all that hard work we retreated to the steps of the chateau itself for the tasting. Having seen so many museum like chateaux in France, it was some change to see a lived-in one! On the steps and in the sunshine we met his wife Angela.

We started with his 2012 Bordeaux blanc, all Sauvignon blanc, and a real beauty. Then we moved onto the lightly oaked Clos des Quinze 2012 Bordeaux, a classic blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Just sipping a glass of it again now as I type and it is just perfect, a great balance of fruit flavours and acidity.

From the 159th step!

They just kept getting better.  Next up was the 2010 Les Trois Hectares, a Bordeaux superieur Merlot. Marvellous. And the good thing about these wines, unlike many that I write about on these trips, is that they are available in Ireland via Curious Wines http://www.curiouswines.ie.

Crossing the Gironde at Langoiran

Bauduc is near the town of Créon and here we enjoyed a lunchtime sandwich and a drink in a bakery recommended by Gavin. Headed on then to a local landmark, the Abbaye de la Sauve Majeure. It is now a ruin but much of the shell remains as does the bell tower. The receptionist more or less dared me to take that on and, with some power from the Bauduc wines, I scaled the 159 steps in record time.

Had been hoping to visit a top restaurant in Arcachon but it closes on Tuesday. Luckily for us, we found another traiteur just across the road and the madame here was welcoming and smiling. We liked that and liked her food as well, including a main course of beef tongue. Three courses costs us about twenty one euro. And we had lots of Bauduc to wash it down! Say no more.

Lunch in Bages.

Lunch in Bages

Day 8 9th June

If we took it easy yesterday, the French did so today, virtually nothing stirring this holiday Monday as we drove through the countryside from Arcachon to the village of Bages on the outskirts of Pauillac in the Medoc.

Indeed, we were wondering if we would even get lunch anywhere. On the way back, we had a different worry: where would we get petrol? In any event, both “problems” were solved.

It seems that more outlets close on a French National Holiday than close on a Sunday. We were originally heading for Moulis, one of the smallest appellations in the Medoc. In particular we were looking for the Maison du Vin in the village.

The thought struck us as we neared that it could be closed and a quick look at our Michelin Wine Regions of France confirmed the sinking feeling. Since we were so close, we said we’d take a look as the book was published a few years ago. The Sat-Nav found the correct street but we couldn't see any sight of the Maison. A mystery.

Carried on further up the road, with the village of Bages, at the gates of the Lynch Bages chateau, our next target. The run-down village has been reconstructed and revitalised by the winery and has some thriving food and drink related shops, adding value to the chateau’s core business. Luckily for us, the restaurant was one of the few premises open and we called in and asked for a table.

It is popular restaurant and we had to wait a spell for a table (inside, none available outside) to be cleared. It was well worth the short wait and we enjoyed a three course lunch for 28 euro each. Started with the Chef’s own Galantine of duck and foie gras, very flavoursome and quite substantial for a starter.

Iced Nougat.

The main event saw CL go for the Pan-seared Hake, Lemon Beurre blanc and ratatouille. She was delighted with that and I was very happy indeed with my Traditional Chicken Fricassee and Dauphinoise Potatoes. Hardly earth-shattering dishes but the produce was top notch and was really properly cooked and presented. Service all round was friendly and excellent.

Desserts were Iced Nougat with caramelised almonds for me and a Mango Passionfruit Cheesecake for her. An excellent finish and the apres digestif was a walk around the village, the chateau (walls!), and the the nearby vineyards.

The petrol gauge dipped lower and lower on the way back but again the villages were sleepy, action only evident as we approached the major roads, though even here a large Leclerc station was shuttered. Eventually, relief came in the  shape of an very busy Auchan Supermarket close to Arcachon. Here, I stuck in the credit card, followed the instructions (not too difficult) and filled her up, all ready for Chateau Bauduc in the morning.

Grand Puy Lacoste
One of the oldest properties in the Médoc.

Now, if only that thunderstorm outside would move away. The one in the morning did and gave us a lovely day again with temperatures up around the thirty mark.