For your Weekend: One White, One Red

For your Weekend: One White, One Red

Vina del Sopie Verdejo DO Rueda 2013, 13.5% abv, €13.95 Karwig Wines

Venture away from the usual white grapes and you'll be richly rewarded. Especially if you try this one which is one hundred per cent Verdejo (pronounced Ver-deko) and all the grapes are from fifty year old vines.

It is yellow in colour with green tones and looks clean and bright. The nose is rather expressive, white fruits combine with floral aromas, for me it was love at first sniff. And the affair intensified when it hit the palate, smooth and round and again those fruits and indeed floral characters, ending in a long and fruity finish.

The Spanish vineyard recommend pairing it with Mediterranean dishes, vegetables, rice and seafood and flavourful fish and I can agree when they say it is exceptional as an aperitif. Quite delicious all round and very highly recommended.

If you’d like to pick up a red while you’re in Karwigs, check out the Caldora Montepulciano and the Caldora Sangiovese. I’ve had these recently and they are two really lovely reds and each is well priced.

Chateau Lezin, Bordeaux Superieur 2011, 13%, €10.00 (down from 19.99), SuperValu.

Merlot (69%) certainly dominates the blend here. Soft and lush on the palate, the fruit flavours and hints of spice are well balanced, tannins are just about noticeable and it all ends with a persistent finalé.

The renovated winery are very happy with this one, describing it as powerful and complex. Not sure I'd go that far but I'd have no hesitation in recommending it as an excellent example of Bordeaux red.

With the French wine sale still on in SuperValu, you might be tempted to get your white here as well and the one I’d recommend is the Michel Lynch Barrel Select Sauvignon blanc 2012 .

Dipping into Bordeaux and its 6000 chateaux. The easy way!

Dipping into Bordeaux and its 6000 chateaux.

The easy way!

In Bordeaux last June, while I was searching in vain for a particular local wine, a wine-shop proprietor said to me, by way of excuse for not having it in stock: “You know there six thousand castles in Bordeaux”. That is a lot of wine, hard to get around to all those chateaux.

But you don’t don’t even have to go to Bordeaux at the moment as the Supervalu French wine sale kicks off this week. Most areas of the France are covered and there are quite a few wines on sale. While Bordeaux often gets a bad press because of “gambling” at the higher end, it is hard to go wrong with a regular wine from the area. The sale starts tomorrow (Thursday September 25th) and goes on until October 10th.

No need to go to Bordeaux!

Chateau Haut Bertinerie, Blaye Cotes de Bordeaux, 2011, 13.5%. (12.00, down from 15.99)

A blend of sixty per cent Merlot and forty per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, this has dark fruits (plums mainly) and traces of spice on the nose. It is good and fruity, smooth and elegant, tannins barely noticeable. It is an excellent well balanced wine, with second glass appeal.

This is a rather special wine for the chateau, a “terroir cuvée” produced from a selection of their oldest vines, the fruit hand-picked and sorted. Lots of TLC too in the wine-making which includes 12 months in new French casks. I reckon all the effort pays off. Very Highly Recommended.

Saint-Emilion

Les Hauts de Gros Caillou, Saint-Emilion 2011, 13% (14.00, down from 27.99)

A different blend here: Merlot (65%) and Cabernet Franc (35). This beautiful dark red wine has an inviting nose of ripe red fruit. It is rather soft and lush on the palate, flavours of dark fruits, some spice too; tannins present but nothing approaching severe.

This is a well made wine, typical of the area, and very highly recommended. Pair with red meats and cheeses. Label also recommends turkey but I'm not too sure. Depends on the sauce, I suppose. Then again, if you like red wine with your turkey, go for it.

Michel Lynch Barrel Select Sauvignon Blanc Bordeaux 2012, 12% (10.00, down from 19.99)

Bordeaux whites are generally taken as being a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon but that is not always the case and indeed the area is making some terrific wine with one hundred per cent Sauvignon, as is the case here.

In the glass it is pale gold and stunningly bright and has aromas of citrus, pineapple and blossom. On the palate it is fresh and fruity (maybe without the rush of flavour you’d get from a Marlborough SB), with an almost creamy mouthfeel and a persistent finish. In terms of Sauvignon Blanc, this is well up the rankings and highly recommended.

* Getting the correct serving temperature is quite important - I’ve had a few hiccups recently. There are some good guidelines here.

Flight of the Bee Sensations

Flight to the Top for Bee Sensations

Irish Quality Food Awards 2014.

Great to be at the table with Bee Sensations last Friday evening when one of their lovely jams won at the Irish Quality Food Awards 2014. On the Pig’s Back and Burren Salmon were also among the victors on a night which is mainly for the supermarkets and the larger producers (such as Dale Farm Dairies, ABP Cahir, Kepak, and O’Brien Fine Foods who were all on the podium).

Munster based Bee Sensations are a husband and wife company, run by Tom and Croéin Ruttle. They are quite famous for their innovative (often blended) jams, which use honey instead of sugar, and of course for their honey. As it happened it was one of their jams, the Honeyed Fig, Rhubarb and Chilli Savoury Jam, that struck gold in the Grocery Ambient - Savoury class.

But there was a moment of unnecessary drama before the win was confirmed as apparently the wrong class was called out first. Still, the busy couple were soon able to relax as their name appeared on screen. It was about the only obvious hitch in a very slick presentation, introduced by Paul Kennedy and compered by celebrity chef Catherine Fulvio (“a farmer’s daughter”).

Birgitta Curtin is one of the heroes of Irish food and she keeps innovating and winning. Her success came  in the Fish section where her Burren Smoked Irish Organic Salmon with Seaweed Marinade came out on top. This came in for high praise from the judges: “really fantastic in terms of colour, texture and flavour”. Like Bee Sensations (and unlike most of the other producers), she didn't have a supermarket partner listed.

Olivia, of An Olivia Chocolate, and, sister Emily (left)

But Cobh’s Deirdre Hilliard and her company Just Food weren't as  fortunate in the Soups section. Her HiLo Super Greens Soup was behind a Lidl Ireland soup, Newgate Tomato Soup by Princes (the international food and drink company).

The cross-border event is labelled Irish Quality Food Awards not Quality Irish Food Awards. There is a difference as we all know from small print on food packaging! Honey is one often quoted example.

Cork’s Isabelle Sheridan of On the Pig's Back certainly enjoyed her trip to the Mansion House as she was named the Supervalu Small Producer of the Year.  Based on her French family recipes, Isabelle has been making chicken liver patés and terrines in Cork since 1995. Her Chicken Liver Paté with Garlic and Brandy is the product that led to this breakthrough and the organisers say they are sure “it will be a fantastic addition to Supervalu’s product line and look forward to working with On the Pig’s Back”. Well done Isabelle.

The awards are open to all retailers, food producers, wholesalers and food service operators “across Northern and Southern Ireland” (someone should tell the PR it is the Republic of Ireland!). Awards were presented in some fifty categories and the Overall Gold Q Award went to Simply Better French Trimmed Connemara Hill Rack of Lamb (Dunnes Stores/Tendermeats).

Yours truly with Isabelle Sheridan (On The Pig's Back)

See the full list of awards here.

Blas na hEireann update on Bee Sensations July 2015 here

Aresti Stars in Red and White

Aresti Stars in Red and White
Classy Chilean Collection

Kevin, the Curico Valley, and Jon.

Jon Usabiaga, Chief Winemaker at Chile’s Aresti, was in town last week and brought a stellar line-up of the company’s wines with him. We tasted nine of the best at the SuperValu tasting in the Hayfield Manor.

Started off with a couple of the Special Release range, a Sauvignon Blanc 2013 and Chardonnay 2013, two completely different wines but both very good indeed, both Premium level wines.

The Sauvignon, from the cold Casablanca Valley (close to the ocean), has had two months on its lees and is a very refreshing wine, well balanced. In answer to a question, Jon advised drinking it as soon as possible. It could last well for two years but won't improve!

The Chardonnay, or at least part of the wine, is aged in oak and also “a little bit on lees”. It is from the same valley “but completely different… more tropical fruit..more complex". But the same price! Both bottles are selling at ten euro for the next few weeks.

Perhaps the first surprise of the evening was the Trisquel Gewűrztraminer 2012. A German connection led to this wine being grown by Aresti in the Curico Valley. Gewűrz is scarce in Chile and Aresti are now one of the biggest growers of the grape.

Kevin O’Callaghan, Wine-Buyer at SuperValu, says this has much less sugar than your normal Gewűrztraminer, less than 3 grams per litre. “I see it as a food wine, with Cheese, Asian and so on. A great wine for someone who wants to experiment!”

This was followed by another Aresti ace: Trisquel Sauvignon BLanc 2013. As Jon detailed where the vines are raised - in the cool climate area of the small Leyda Valley - I was sampling and thinking it was similar in style and quality to a good Marlborough. Kevin agreed, highlighting how the fruit, the punchiness and the overall lushness was balanced “by mouth-watering acidity. Right up there with Marlborough!”

The reds started with two from the Special Release: Merlot 2012 and Cabernet Sauvignon 2012. Jon loves the Merlot from specially selected vineyards in the central Curico: “..a little colder..very special conditions to grow Merlot..a perfect fit”. The Cabernet comes from a different warmer valley and the wine produced is well balanced and great value, especially with the current discount.

And then we were on to a gem: Trisquel Assemblage 2011. And a good story from Kevin who recalled a lady who used visit the wine store where he once worked. She always checked the bottles closely. One day, she forgot her glasses and Kevin stepped in and asked how he could help. “I want to know the voltage,” she replied. Well, the ABV on this one is 14%. Kevin loves it: “...very smooth...lots of tannin but nothing too grippy...well balanced”.

It takes a bit of “assembling” too according to Jon who revealed they first make it on a small scale “until we’re happy” and what they are happy with here is Cab Sauv 44%, Syrah 42% and Petit Verdot 14%. “There are very complementary characteristics among the three grapes,” said Jon.

Yours truly with Jon.

The Trisquel Syrah 2012, from the Maipo Valley, then made its bow, to general approval. “Smoky on the nose’, said Kevin. “Very rich on the palate..bit of grip..lovely black fruits..plus vanilla from the barrells...well integrated”. Jon revealed that the grapes have come from the same block every year for the past ten. “This is really a high quality Syrah, more elegant, more on the fine wine side.”

“It is not often a wine makes you sit up and take notice”, said Kevin as he introduced the outstanding Family Collection 2009, a red blend. “The nose keeps changing...the complexity keeps coming out slowly… It is still in its infancy, perfectly balanced with potential to age… 5 to 10 years more in this.” By the way, the “voltage” is 14.50%.

The blend is Jon’s pride and joy. “With this wine, I enjoy being a winemaker - fun to mix everything!”. Here are the stats: Cab Sauv 59%, Merlot 12%, Syrah 10%, Petite Sirah 10% and Malbec 9%. John though does manage to also squeeze in one per cent Viognier to give “that little pinch of something else”.  It all adds up not to 101% but to an outstanding wine!

SuperValu has been working directly with Aresti Estate Wines, a family run Chilean winery, for almost ten years. During this time they have developed a terrific partnership resulting in Aresti Estate wines becoming Ireland’s 5th biggest imported Chilean range. The Aresti family estate supplies SuperValu exclusively as part of the Specially Sourced range. Looks like a winning combination!

My favourites

White: The Trisquel Gewurztraminer and the Trisquel Sauvignon Blanc.

Red: The Trisquel Assemblage, The Trisquel Syrah and the Family Collection.

At present, until September 24th, reductions (some quite substantial) are available on many of the wines mentioned above.

Mussel Bites make a Tasty Tuesday Lunch!

Mussel Bites make a Tasty Tuesday Lunch!

The sun was out and about last Tuesday and the garden swing beckoned. And no problem about lunch as I had just arrived in from town with a pack of frozen Mussel Bites. Frozen. Yes, but no problem as these delicious bites can be cooked from frozen.

No need to wash or “beard” these beauties, all the way from Beara, and about 20 minutes later, with some leaves from the garden and sipping from a bottle of Rebel Red Ale by Franciscan Well, we were dining al fresco. Must say that the mussels, covered with multi-grain and garlic, were absolutely delicious and they went down very well with the ale.

With better days ahead, I’ll be sticking a few packs (€4.99 each)  of these in the freezer. They are very handy for a quick lunch and would also make a lovely starter or could even be served tapas style.

Beara Seafoods is a locally-based, family run company.  Its owner Ger Lynch is a fifth generation fisherman with thirty seven years experience in the cultivation and harvesting of mussels.  The mussels used in the product are locally grown on the Kenmare Bay, in SAC approved waters (Special Area of Conservation).  They are cultivated without the use of artificial feed or treatment of any sort and are packed with Atlantic goodness.  The Lynchs have taken a trusted family recipe and combined the two to create our delicious 100% Irish Mussel Bites. 

Helen Lynch told me that the succulent mussels are rolled in multi grain (rolled oats as well as a little rice and wheat) and real garlic is also added.  ”These Mussels Bites are healthy, low in fat and delicious too.  A 100g portion contains only 152 calories and 1.5g of fat; they are also packed with essential fish oils and protein.  What's more, they are very convenient for the modern family; suitable for baking, grilling or frying.  We recommend baking as it's a simple and healthy way of cooking.” 

“Our mussels have all the goodness of slow-food without the labour intensive preparation beforehand; a delicious, filling and healthy alternative to the more processed breaded products on the market.”  

Stockists:

Mussel Bites are available in over ten SuperValu branches throughout Munster and Beara Seafoods  intend to expand that list in the coming weeks.  Local (city-based) outlets include: 

Scally's SuperValu on the Mahon Road

Ryan's SuperValu, Glanmire and Grange

Downe's SuperValu, Ballincollig

Quish's SuperValu, Ballincollig

Bradley’s, North Main Street

Keohane Seafoods, Kinsale Road

For info: Contact Helen on 086 169 2816 or Ger on 086 384 5377.

Woodside Free Range Pigs

Woodside Free Range Pigs

Bubbling Up Nicely

Taste of the Week in this house came from Woodside Farm. Actually, the Conroy’s at Woodside could provide a taste of the week every week, even if they confined it to their Free Range Pigs, pedigree Saddleback and pedigree Gloucester Old Spot pigs.

I have tried quite a bit of the range: Shoulder of Pork, Pork Loin, Pork Belly, Leg of Pork, Pork Chops, Pork Escalopes, Pork Steak, Spare Ribs, Minced Pork, Pork Sausages, Gluten Free Sausages, Cumberland Sausages, Liver, Kidneys, Caul Fat, and Pigs Tail.

That is just the pork. Here is the bacon selection: Collar Bacon, Loin of Bacon, Streaky Bacon, Ham Fillet, Dry Cure Back & Streaky Rashers, Dry Cure Gammon Steak, Lardons, Bacon Ribs, Trotters, Pigs Cheek.

Last Thursday in Mahon Point Farmers Market, I got a piece of Dried Cured Ham from Martin. He is in Mahon every Thursday and in Douglas every Saturday while Noreen is on duty in Midleton every Saturday.

We went pretty traditional with the bacon. Got lots of vegetables in Mahon but had no cabbage when Sunday came around. Up then to the local Supervalu and picked up an excellent head of Savoy, a terrific combination with the very flavoursome meat.

And all polished off with no worries about what was in the meat. Martin: “We cure our own bacon and make all our own sausages. We don't use any preservatives or stabilisers; because of this our sausages have a five day shelf life. We also make Pork and Apple Burgers which contain just Pork and Apple, these are also Gluten Free. We only sell meat from our pigs and don't buy in any meat and pass it off as our own. When you buy our products you can be sure you are getting a Truly Free Range Product.”

In recent months, I’ve been getting granola along with dried fruits (e.g., papaya, mango...) from Len’s Cereals, also in Mahon. But he has lots more, including Puy Lentils. Got a bag of those last Thursday. But what to cook with them?

Had been thinking of some lamp chops but instead decided to go with butchers sausages. So up then to the local Coolmore Meats in Montenotte. I found out that they don’t do their own sausages but the good news is that they stock O’Flynn’s Gourmet sausages.  No hesitation, bought a bunch and between them, the lentils and some sun dried tomatoes, we had quite a tasty plateful.

Mark’s Cheese in Mahon carries a range of Irish and European products but had no Irish sheep cheese for me last week. And indeed won’t have it from his supplier for another couple of months! So I settled for a wedge of the Spanish Manchego.

While in the Basque country last summer,  I came across the local sheeps cheese regularly in the restaurants and it was invariably served with jam (black cherry). Iain Flynn (Flynn’s Kitchen)  includes jams among his award winning products at the market and I bought a pot of his excellent Mixed Berry (livened up with black pepper and Kirsch) and that went down every well with the Manchego.

As you can see, the Manchego and the lentils were about the only non Irish ingredients in that bout of shopping but at least I bought them locally and had a lot of fun doing do. The more you go to the markets and indeed to your local shop and butcher, the more interaction you’ll have as they always have time for a chat or even a suggestion as to how to make the best of your purchase. Buy local – why not hit Mahon tomorrow? – and enjoy the craic.

Food Fest in Blackrock

Food Fest in Blackrock

Quite a big turnout for the Scally SuperValu led Food Fest that took place on Wednesday night in the Blackrock GAA club premises. I arrived quite early but already the place was buzzing; many were sampling the food available at a string of stalls and others keen on getting the best seats for the cooking demonstrations.

Tom and Mary Scally were naturally delighted with the interest and the big turnout and the chance to meet their customers in a more relaxed situation. We were greeted, like everyone else, with a glass of wine and few nibbles on the way in and then headed for the stalls, well spread out around the hall and in another room nearby.

Quite a lot of interest in the handmade cookie dough by Gookie and also in the tasty products – enjoyed their salmon pate – by Kinsale’s Blue Haven.

Headed over then for a chat with Avril from Rosscarbery Recipes but just time to say hello as she was busy with the queues for her sausages and blackpudding and also for her “secret recipe” bread!

West Cork Meats had some tasty ham there and then there I stopped at the Old Creamery Cheese stall. Must say I like their stuff, especially that marble looking porter cheese and I notice they have now added a lovely blueberry cheddar.

Dunmanway based Insanely Good were there with their range of delicious sauces, including a Classic Pasta Sauce and a Fresh and Fruity Curry Sauce. Carrigtwohill based Fresh Farm Salads  make our favourite Coleslaw and also other 100% Irish salads.

Came across two cheese stalls next. Carrigaline  has always been a favourite here and, by the way, they do cheese biscuits as well. Have tasted the Horgan’s cheese previously also. Sampled the Brie this time and liked it.

"Fresh is best" aptly sums up the situation with food and it seems to me that Supervalu do better than many. I’ve been in a few of their stores over the past few months and was very impressed with the amount of local food available in outlets in Skibbereen, Riverstown (Glanmire) and Ticknock (Cobh).

The Scallys too underlined that trend with a very impressive selection of breads displayed in the hall. And they were also serving up some tempting samples of their cooked dishes, really loved the fish cakes in the photo. These are cooked every morning and ready for the customers (in bigger sizes than the samples photographed!).

I may have missed out on a few, certainly missed the sample chowder from the Good Fish company . Overall though it turned out to be a very enjoyable evening. Well done to the Scallys and to all the producers who put their best foot forward on the night.

AVRIL: ON THE ROAD FROM ROSS

ROSSCARBERY RECIPES

On Friday morning, I drove down to Supervalu in Ticknock in Cobh to see Avril Allshire-Howe who was on duty with her samples of her Rosscarbery black and white pudding. The black is very good but the white is really amazing and is a great match with scallops. Avril is on the road regularly and will be travelling all over the county every day ‘til Christmas and still finds time to help the food movement in West Cork.

Avril is the public face of Rosscarbery Recipes and Caherbeg Free Range Pork but she will be the first to tell you that husband Willie and the rest of the family are major players on the West Cork farm. On Friday, she was also serving sample slices from her delicious Cheddar and Stout Cake which is not commercially available but which goes well with the puddings.

But don’t worry. The busy Avril also produces a newsletter and the latest edition contains the recipe for the cake and much more foodie information besides. You can read most of it, including the recipe, at the end of this post.

I hope to meet up with Avril again in the New Year and do a full post and I have also featured her here  in a Buy Local plea.


Speaking of local, there were quite a few people showing their wares in the Supervalu in Ticknock and I really enjoyed meeting them. Loved the in-house mince pies (with custard) and also the rashers from Truly Irish.  Very tasty.

Also met a few of the staff as I walked around and must say I’ve rarely met a nicer friendlier helpful bunch in any supermarket. Great atmosphere there.

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