Detained in a French Restaurant!

Day 5

Detained in a French Restaurant!

Knuckle (we call it shank) of lamb 

What is it about some French restaurants that they seem to want to keep you there all night? The answer, methinks, is understaffing. Our server at L’Ardoise in Chinon, a Michelin mentioned bistro and a busy place, was worked off his feet and, despite valiantly trying, could hardly be expected to keep up with the demands of about fifty persons in our downstairs section.

Delays just got longer and, while I didn’t time ours, the couple next table did and said they waited fifty minutes for dessert. We had to struggle to get dessert and the bill and then the credit card machine before escaping into the dark and a night-time temperature of 24 degrees.

On top of all that the menus were on big blackboards. Okay. But when customers came in you were trying to look through them to see what is available and besides the server has to explain the menu to each new arrival. Time wasting and crazy. What not have the regular menu on paper, the specials on the boards? Even the way the wine was handled was awkward. You had to go down to a display of bottles to pick your red and then to another display to choose white or rose. Never seen anything like it.

Yet the food, aside maybe from the desserts, was good. CL’s starter of Foie Gras Poele sur son Carpaccio de bouef and my Mille Feuille avec sentures de maquis and chèvre were quite satisfactory if not outstanding.

We each had the same mains and this was the highlight. It was Knuckle of Lamb cooked for 7 hours and served with rustic potatoes. Really gorgeous. And the wine, a Chinon Red 2012 (18 euro per bottle) wasn't bad either. 

The main visit today was to see the 16^th century Chateau d’Azay de Rideau. It seems that many French also made it their day to visit and the place was busy but far from uncomfortably so. Built between 1518 and 1527, this château is considered one of the foremost examples of early French renaissance architecture. Set on an island in the middle of the Indre river (a tributary of the Loire), this picturesque château has become one of the most popular of the châteaux of the Loire valley.

Stain glass detail from one of the windows

The huge building had to have its king’s room and that forms part of the tour and Louis XIII and Louis XIV stayed here. Quite a lot of other impressive rooms here also, including the Billiards Room! Didn’t get to stay in the King’s Room but did enjoy a lovely lunch in the nearby Creperie du Roy.

Headed off then to nearby Sache which is known as the town of Balzac, the 19^th century novelist, and we saw his chateau and also the 12^th century Auberge where he came for a drink or two. The Auberge is still going strong but today’s menus are on the expensive side. Another well known figure, the 20^th century American sculptor Alexander Calder, also called this town home and one of his large mobiles dominates the small town square.

12th century auberge in Sache

Calder's mobile

We also paid a visit to Villaines les Rochers. Since the Middle Ages, willows from the local river valleys have been made into baskets, anything from fruit holders to baby carriages and even bigger. Must say that I was fascinated by a tour of the local co-op and there are three or four other enterprises making baskets and related items in the town.

Lovely welcome and wines at 17th century Chateau du Petit Thouars

Day 4

Lovely welcome and wines at 17^th century  Chateau du Petit Thouars

In the vineyard today with Sebastien du Petit Thoaurs

 Built at the same time as Cardinal Richelieu was building his nearby model town, the 17^th century Chateau de Petit Thouars  was our destination today. We were warmly welcomed by Sebastien and Darcy and started with a walk through the vineyard, planted in 1975, and which escaped the early summer hailstones that caused havoc in other parts of the Loire this year.

Cabernet Franc is the grape here for reds, roses and a Cremant de Loire which I’m now sipping as I type. But this year, for the first time, Sebastien will harvest Chenin Blanc and he is really looking forward to the results of that.

Cabernet Franc

 In from the sun then to the cool of the cellars, mainly caves excavated in higgledy piggledy fashion but since adapted to the use of the wine-maker with a temperature almost always at an ideal 12 degrees.

Since its rebirth in 1975, the vineyard has grown to a 15 hectares (30 acres) estate. The winemaker is Michel Pinard, who built his well-deserved reputation working for more than ten years with the famous Chinon winemaker Charles Joguet. 

The Chateau's top wine

 The subsequent tasting left us in no doubt that superb wines, from the 2009 Selection to the Amiral (24 months in oak, including one change of barrel) of the same year, are being made here. No wonder they are winning awards and are being sold both in the France and Belgium and in England and the US, and China is on the horizon as well. How about Ireland?

Sipping this lovely sparkler right now.

Superb example of Cabernet Franc

Earlier we had visited the nearby Château in Montsoreau.  The remains of the 15^th century building, the setting for an Alexandre Dumas novel of murder most foul (Le Dame du Mortsoreau), provides a terrific view over the coming together of the Loire and the Vienne rivers and over the village itself, designated a village fleuri.

Boat on the Loire at Montsoreau

Meeting of the waters: the Vienne (right) is taken over by the Loire.

Château in Montsoreau

Earlier we had visited the nearby Château in Montsoreau.  The remains of the 15^th century building, the setting for an Alexandre Dumas novel of murder most foul (Le Dame du Mortsoreau) provides a terrific view over the coming together of the Loire and the Vienne rivers and over the village itself, designated a village fleuri.

Enjoying the pool in the evening sun.

Today also we sorted out one of the priorities of holidaying in France, this to find a good traiteur. These shops can give you a taste of France at a much cheaper rate than restaurants. We found one here in Chinon (it was closed yesterday). From the Aux Delices du Terroir, on rue Marceau, we bought some rabbit in a Basque sauce which just needs a little reheating in the microwave. Looking forward to that now, with a glass of Sebastian’s Selection 2009!

She was Queen of France and then Queen of England

Day 3:

She was Queen of France and then Queen of England.

Eleanor of Aquitaine, one of the richest and most powerful women ever.

Eleanor effigy

 Lovely meal this evening in the Restaurant At’Table in Chinon but the highlight of the day was the visit to the magnificent Abbey Fontevraud, described as the largest and most extraordinary in France. History is writ large here in this early 12^th century building that was run for nearly 700 years by aristocratic abbesses.

It contains the remains of one of the most remarkable women ever, Eleanor of Aquitaine. Her effigy lies next to that of her second husband Henry Plantagenet, the King of England, and their son Richard the Lionheart. Eleanor had before that been married to Louis VII and that made her Queen of France. The story is quite complicated and she endured imprisonment by Henry before being released by son Richard and then going on to live until into her 80s before dying at Fontevraud.

The abbey's cloisters

 After the French revolution, the Abbey was turned into a prison and was used as such until 1963 upon which repair and restoration began. Today, it is a hive of activity both inside and out and is a fantastic visit, not least because some of the areas are used to mount large scale art works and installations. Plans for the future include using part of it as a luxury hotel.

The abbey's chapterhouse

 We had our first stroll around Chinon this morning and very impressed with the statue to another amazing French woman, Joan of Arc, who is remembered here by a monumental statue of her on horseback with a bunch of enemies crushed underfoot.

The duck

 Chinon though is dominated by its chateau. We didn’t visit it but looked at it from down in the town and from a great viewpoint across the river, the Vienne.

After a busy day, we visited the At’Table for dinner and went for the three course menu for 22.90, really good value. The only bum note was a glass of red Chinon house wine, served very cold and probably poor enough in any case. The white, on the other hand, was excellent.

The fish dish

 Good choices for all courses and CL’s starter was a delightful Carpaccio of Melon, sorbet red port and condiments while I absolutely enjoyed my river fish terrine with a lime mousseline. Mains too were top notch, her Parmentier of Duck Confit with orange sauce superb and my Omlet-Chevalier (a sea fish, I’m told) with courgette crumble and red pepper emulsion. Very enjoyable outdoor meal at a very busy venue.

The Sabayon dessert

Dining in style on the high seas.

Loire Holiday 2013

Day 1 & 2

Fishermen in Cork Harbour

Quite a swell as we left the familiar arms of Cork Harbour on Saturday but nothing that the veteran Brittany Ferries ferry, Pont Aven, couldn't handle. So calm was the voyage to Roscoff that we enjoyed a great meal at le Flora, the ship’s main restaurant, as you can see from the pictures.

Duck ravioli with cream of lettuce sauce

The Pont Aven arrived on schedule, maybe even a little early in Roscoff, and, about 7.30 French time we hit the road. All familiar as far as Rennes and then some new roads as we headed for Chinon in the Loire Valley. Hadn’t been there before but the journey was easy, with the big cities, Rennes and Angers, easily by-passed.

Crab dressed in vegetable salad, diplomat sauce.

After lunch at a nearby village, arrived in Chinon as arranged and soon Sylvie showed us around our troglodyte gite. Well equipped, with a pool where the water temperature is in the high 20s. It is very close to the centre of the town and looks like a good base to explore the vineyards and chateaux of the famous river valley.

Chicken and asparagus with Albufera sauce

Cheese course

Kirsch and vanilla pear parfait

Lemon biscuit with tequila ice cream

Brocante market in Chinon this Sunday afternoon

Loire Lesson #5 Red all over

Loire Lesson #5
Red all over

Jean-Max Roger Sancerre 2005, Cuvée La Grange Dîmière, 12.5%, €21.35 Karwig Wines.

This red has red fruits, traces of vanilla, on the nose. On the palate it is light with typical Pinot Noir raspberry flavours, also hints of wild strawberry, with a good long dry finish.

Roger is one of the top Loire growers and 2005 was a very good year there. If you get your hands on one of these, why not try it with a salad featuring one the Ummera smoked products (duck, chicken, salmon). Very Highly Recommended.

Le Pensée de Pallus, Chinon 2010, 12.5%, €25.50, Ballymaloe Wines (at Brown Thomas)

I’ll be in Chinon next month, hoping to get better acquainted with the local reds, especially after sampling this one from the new Ballymaloe pop-up wine store at Brown Thomas in Patrick Street. This is a top cuvée from a top producer and worth getting to know.

“Made in the modern style”, this is light and elegant. This Cabernet Franc is fresh, savoury and juicy on the palate, well balanced though with good length. Highly recommended.

Loire Lesson #4

Loire Lesson #4

Harvest time at Gitton

Gitton Peer & Fils, Pouilly-Fumé 2008, Clos Joanne D’Orion, 12.5%, €23.75, Karwig Wines

The grape here is Sauvignon Blanc and 2008 is regarded as one of the better years. I’ve read, though where I can’t recall, that a good Pouilly-Fumé has a pungent smell often likened to gun flint, the extra smokiness coming from the local flinty soil known as silex.

Colour is straw with tints of green while the nose is aromatic, reminiscent of white fruits. It is quite a mouthful, quite a mouthfeel, smoothly viscous and full of intense flavour with good acidity; it is long lasting on the palate with a terrific long finish.

Class in a glass. No gun smoke, by the way. Very Highly Recommended.

Domaine du Haut Perron, Guy Allion, Touraine Sauvignon Vielle Vignes 2011, 12.5%, €17.40, Bubble Bros.

Touraine, around the city of Tours, is the largest AOC in the Loire area. Though not as well known as the smaller AOCs of Sancerre and Vouvray, it produces some excellent wines and can rival Sancerre for the quality of its Sauvignon.

This dry white, from the vineyard of Guy and Cédric Allion on the slopes of the Cher River, has a couple of extras going for it. It is made from the fruits of old vines and is left on its lees for a few months. The wine makers too are committed: “We do our best to respect nature every day”.

This one has intense flavours with a fresh tingly mouthfeel, excellent acidity and a lasting finish. This aromatic (white fruits) wine is well made and Highly Recommended.

* I am heading to the Loire later in the summer. Any tips on what to see, do, (even drink!) appreciated.

Loire Lesson #3. Loving Cabernet Franc.

Loire Lesson #3

Domaine de Roncée, Chinon 2007, 12.5% abv, €17.95, Karwig 

Agreeable aromas of dark fruits greet you, some spice also. This red, produced from the Cabernet Franc grape, is juicy and fruity, fresh, light and well balanced with an excellent long finish.

The official description says it is “tender and easy to drink”. Easy to drink for sure, even though it seems stronger than its 12.5%. But I would be inclined to dispute “tender” as there is a fair bit of backbone in this one. Very Highly Recommended.

By the way, the Christophe Baudry and Jean-Martin Dutour, named on the front label are mentioned among the top Chinon producers by Hugh Johnson in his 2012 handbook.

And the lesson? Well, it is easy to love Cabernet Franc. And I’m looking forward to trying it out on its home soil when I visit Chinon later in the summer. Still looking for tips for the Loire area.

Loire Lessons #1: Cuvee La Grange Dîmière

Loire Lessons #1

Jean Max Roger, Cuvee La Grange Dîmière, Sancerre 2010, 12.5%, €21.35 Karwig Wines

Pinot Noir

Will be heading off to the Loire later this year and thought I’d better get a bit of practice on the wines. Karwig’s have quite a selection, indeed a whole shelf full, and soon, with no little help from Emily, I had enough to start my Loire lessons.

This Rosé was the first and very pleasant it turned out to be. The immediate pressing of the Pinot Noir grape “gives a unique salmon colour, along with lightness, elegance and finesse”.

But, dare I suggest, it is a rosé with backbone. Maybe backbone is too strong a term. It sure has the pink colour of the salmon and I think I can safely suggest that it also some of its suppleness.

A very pleasant combination of colour, texture and flavour. A winner for me and Very Highly Recommended.

It is called "La Grange Dîmière" in reference to one of Bué’s ancient tithe barns which constitutes the oldest part of the winery. Bué is the family village.

Bird on the vine

* On the subject of the Loire, if anyone has any tips, not just on the wine, I'd be glad to hear from you!