L’Atitude 51: Rivers of Wine

L’Atitude 51: Rivers of Wine

Fun on the Loire last September.
I'm on the skis, just out of pic!

L’Atitude 51 is perhaps the best known destination wine-bar in Cork City; owners Beverly and Emma have an extensive collection of wines available, some “fifty of them by the glass’.

How best to navigate them? Why not take a river trip, I think to myself. Might not get to them all but it sure will help illustrate the variety and quality available. The round trip, confined to Europe this tour, from Number One Union Quay, takes a few enjoyable hours. Why not join me? By the way, we are drinking the 75ml tasting glass, just to make sure we stay onboard and between the banks.

True colours.
The GV (left) and the 2007 Riesling

Coing St Fiacre (Chardonnay), 2012, Loire, France

First stop was the Loire Valley, familiar since last summer’s holidays. But we didn't come across this one or indeed any other local Chardonnay. This was a very pleasant surprise indeed, an excellent Chardonnay and a great alternative to Chablis.

St Fiacre was active first in Kilkenny and then in France in the 7th century. A renowned gardener, he was reputedly skilled with herbs and may have been, I’m told, one of the first Irish Wine Geese.

Villa Huesgen By The Glass Riesling, 2012, Mosel, Germany.

Over the border then to the banks of the Mosel, a tributary of the Rhine. Huesgen have been making wine for centuries but they class this as “a modern Riesling”. Certainly it had good fruit, was very well balanced and could be described as easy drinking. Both it and Chardonnay come under the Crisp with Attitude listing here.

Danube vineyards

Erbeldinger Riesling Spatlese, 2007, Rhine, Germany

Two thousand and seven was apparently a very good year for spätleses and this one certainly benefitted. This was full of flavour (not to mention colour), rich and with some sweetness but really well balanced. A superb wine, the best of the whites that we tasted.

Spätlese - Literally translated as “late picking” refers here to the Riesling grapes that are picked late during the harvest season.

Sepp (Gruner Veltliner), 2011, Kremstal, Austria

I’m a fan of the Austrian grape Gruner Veltliner and this effort did not disappoint. The maker “strives for the maximum of balance and elegance in his wines” and he got it right here. Dry and crisp, on the palate it is fresh and fruity, rich with flavour and full bodied, with a hint of spice and a good dry finish. A visit to the Danube wouldn't be complete without a glass or two. On one occasion, I was served with mugs of it (two or three glasses worth) in one of the heuriger in the Vienna Woods. It was a good night.

GV by the mug!

L’O de Domaine du Joncier (Grenache), 2011, Cotes du Rhone, France

Leaving the Danube behind, we headed west again to start our reds with a visit to the mighty Rhone. First stop is close to the town of Tavel, the rosé capital of France, but we were in search of a good Cotes du Rhone and this organically produced wine sure fits the bill. Hints of spice on the nose and on the palate, well balanced and very drinkable, nice fruit and excellent finish. Fruity with Attitude is the official L’Atitude grouping for this one.

Chateau Ste Marie (Merlot, Cabernet Franc), 2011, Bordeaux, France.

Lots of choice in the Bordeaux region and we stopped at Ste Marie, situated in Entre deux Mers, about halfway between the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers. And it was well worth the visit.

With a deep crimson color and generous fruit aromas, this blend of Merlot (mainly) and Cabernet Franc is an excellent drop. The smoothness of the Merlot and the freshness of the Cabernet, helped by 12 months in French oak barrels,  makes for a smashing combination on the palate. L’Atitude say Smooth and Intense!

First class travel on the Rhone.

Simone Joseph (Syrah), 2009, Rhone VDP, France

Our second stop on the Rhone was under the steeply sided vineyards to the south of Lyon, on the eastern side of the river, where this Syrah comes from. This is a pretty typical example of a Northern Rhone Syrah and that means its pretty good. It is quite intense, spicy for sure, but there is no shortage of juicy fruit, and a good long finish.

Barros 10 years old Tawny Port, Douro, Portugal.

Next port of call was in the beautiful Douro valley of Portugal. We were looking for a sweet finish to our wine voyage and certainly found it in this bottle. CL said she could smell it all night but she went straight ahead and drank it instead, declaring it the “best of the night”.

A sip could last you forever (not really) but this is sensational, sweet and warm, unforgettable. Barros has been an outstanding brand in the Port WIne history, since its foundation in 1913, and these are their more considered notes. Dense nose of dried fruit aromas, The soft and silky texture and the subtle nuances of wood are balanced by a fresh acidity and impetus tannic which culminates with a long and elegant finish.

Not exactly first class on the Rhone

Soon we were back on the banks of the Lee wishing that its northern slopes, which we could see from our L’Atitude window, were covered in vines and I was contemplating trying Chateau de Montenotte, Domaine du Tivoli, La Tour de Farther Matthew. Maybe all that after global warming!

The Dordogne, after a summer thunderstorm

In the meantime, if you want to try some really good wines, make a beeline for L'Atitude. And remember, they don't just do wines. You’ll find some great beers there as well. And food, from morning pastries to more substantial fare as the day goes on. Music also on occasions. Stay up to date by following their Facebook page here .

Talk of the Tongue. International Wine and Food Society Event

Talk of the Tongue

International Wine and Food Society Event

The Tongue (left) and more from last Thursday's Celebrating Local Tastes.

“Celebrating Local Tastes” was the title of the first outing for 2014 of the Munster Branch of the International Wine and Food Society.  Held at L'Atitude 51 (1 Union Quay), it turned into an absorbing evening with suppliers Frank Hederman, Jack McCarthy, On the Pig’s Back and Eve’s Chocolates taking the opportunity to showcase their impressive wares while the whole event was enhanced by some well chosen words, not to mention well chosen wines*, by our hostess Beverly Mathews.

First up was smoker Frank Hederman: “Our smokehouse food is made very simply using salt and smoke as natural preservatives to enhance very beautiful Irish raw materials. We are in the condiment business, simply adding flavour, creating new taste experiences and memories using age-old, natural techniques.”

Most of us are familiar with his famous smoked salmon and mackerel, maybe even with the smoked mussels. Lately he has produced smoked butter and on Thursday last introduced us to the new smoked Creme Fraiche. If you see it, buy it!

Then it was the turn of On the Pig's Back and Maria Perez concentrated on their cheeses and demonstrated a terrific variety of flavours using Ardsallagh, Ardrahan and Crozier Blue, among others, to make the point that local cheeses are absolutely first class, capable of holding their own in any company.

One man who can certainly do that is Kanturk butcher Jack McCarthy. He came laden with generous plates of his fabulous charcuterie, Irish charcuterie he emphasized, maybe even Duhallow charcuterie!

On Thursday last, he had quite a selection, including his Italian style copa. Then he introduced his Sliabh Luachra, an air dried beef for which they have been named Nationality Speciality Champions. We thought that was good but what really set us talking was his Tongue. It brought memories back for many (of a certain age!) but everyone was talking about it in a most complimentary way!

Had to finish off this excellent evening with something sweet and that was supplied by Jill from Eve’s Chocolates. “Eve’s”, she said, “is one of Cork's best kept secrets”. But that is not how they want it. So do go and visit them at Eve's Chocolate Shop, 8 College Commercial Park, Magazine Road, Cork. If you go this week, watch out as you could be falling over eggs and bunnies or they may be falling over you. Death by chocolate!

The Wine and Food Society are planning their next outing and if you would like to become a member then contact Aoife (treasurer) mccanaoife@gmail.com. Other officers are  Richie Scott (assistant treasurer), Beverley Matthews (secretary) and Greg Canty (chairman)

*The wines were:

Valdespino, Manzanilla Deliciosa  "En Rama" (unfiltered)

Pipoli Greco Fiano from Basilicata (Southern Italy) 2011

Chateau Ste. Eulalie "La Cantilene" from Minervois La Laviniere 2009  

The Winegeese. A New Generation in Cork last night.

The Winegeese. A New Generation.

Languedoc winemakers at L'Atitude

Bottom (l to r): Leslie Williams (Irish Examiner),
Neasa Corish Miquel and Philip Grant.

A couple of modern winegeese were at L’Atitude in Cork lasted evening and very impressive they were too. Both Neasa Corish Miquel and Philip Grant operate in the Languedoc and, with Irish Examiner’s Leslie Williams linking and prompting the pair, we had a very entertaining evening and tasted some excellent wines.

Neasa Corish Miquel is originally from Dublin and married into the Miquel family. They have two vineyards, one near Beziers, the other south of the Narbonne to Toulouse stretch of the A61 autoroute.

The big surprise from Neasa was her 2012 Albarino, the only one in France (at least for the present!). The Miquels took a big gamble here, planting 14 hectares “all in one go”. But is looks like paying off. This is an elegant fresh white wine with a lovely fragrance. Matched with a mix of smoked and fresh salmon, one of the many excellent bites from the L’Atitude kitchen, it went down well.

Her opening wine, the 2011 Viognier, has been harvested by night and “handled gently”. Its freshness was evident and it went well with the cheese. Neasa said it keeps well for days in the open bottle and is even decanted in some restaurants.

Then Philip who, after a successful business career, bought the large Chateau Bellevue estate in November 2007 (just before the crash!), spoke about the main grape grown there. It is the little known Négrette which has “fabulous colour and fabulous fruit” but “is tricky to grow”.

Worth it though as illustrated through his wines. The first was his 2012 Rosé. Some forty per cent of his wine is rosé and this beauty went very well indeed with Jack McCarthy’s classy Pastrami. Bren Smith of Mackenway, who distribute for Grant and Miquel, said it was also a terrific match with curry.

Philip then produced his first red, his 2009, a gold medal winner and his best seller. It is fifty five per cent Négrette, with Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah also in the blend. It is fresh and fruity, soft, and matched very well with the mushrooms.

The Canal du Midi flows through the Languedoc
and was once used for carrying wine.

Then came the big hitters. Neasa’s introduced us to her Larmes des Fees (the tears of the fairies), a 100% Syrah from 2006 and under the St Chinian appellation. It has been aged for 18 months in oak and much the same in bottle, is very high quality and will age well. The tears of the fairies, Neasa told us, flowed when they heard a group of washerwomen bad-mouthing absent colleagues. Probably still flowing so.

The 2009 Optimum is powerful and fresh and age worthy and another award winner for Philip. Indeed, it has been awarded a very hard to get Coup de Coeur by Hachette. This Fronton AOC red is from low yield vines and has “an enormous concentration of flavour. “It has taken off very well, “he said, “and the biggest buyers are the Vietnamese”.

It was quite a long evening but we didn’t notice the time going by, thanks to the good company and the good wines. More of the same next Wednesday (7.00pm) when the wines of Domainela Sarabande (also from the Beziers area and owned by Australian Paul Gordon and his Irish wife Isla) will be featured. Tickets from L’Atitude at 021 2390219.

Two November Winegeese Events at L'Atitude

Two November Winegeese Events at L'Atitude

Leslie Williams, at L'Atitude on the 14th.

Winegeese arrive at L'Atitude - On the Double.

Thursday Nov 14th 7pm

L'Atitude 51 in Association with Mackenway Wines present

Bringing The Wine Geese Home November Edition (Part 1)

Presentation & Tasting with Winemaker Phillip Grant of Chateau Bellevue la Foret, Fronton AOC, South-West France, and Wine Writer Leslie Williams (Irish Examiner) 

Tickets €12 (include canapés selected to match the wines)

Booking essential. 

Contact L’Atitude 51 on 021 2390219 or info@latitude51.ie

Bellevue were one of the victims of the June hailstones this year but they responded well as you may read here.

Wednesday Nov 20th 7pm

L'Atitude 51 in Association with Tyrrell & Co present 

Bringing The Wine Geese Home November Edition (Part 2)

Presentation & Tasting with Winemakers Paul & Isla Gordon of Domaine La Sarabande
Tickets €12 (include canapés selected to match the wines) 

Booking essential. 

Contact L’Atitude 51 on 021 2390219 or info@latitude51.ie

Paul and Isla were the first Australian/Irish vignerons in the Languedoc and you may read their story here.

Cork Jazz Fest and Child of Prague

Jazz Fest and Child of Prague

Overheard: Saturday.

A man opening a new bar (the old Phoenix) on Union Quay was offered two Child of Prague statues, blonde and blue eyed of course.

“Why?” he asked.

“You can't open a bar without a Child of Prague,” was the answer.

“Why two?”

“In case the first one breaks.”

The bystander did not report the conclusion but I wonder if the person with the statutes also tried to off load one or two at 6IX (not sure whether that is pronounced Six or Six Nine), another new bar that opened this weekend on the premises previously known as Boqueria. The jazz weekend proved a good time to open for Electric (Happy Birthday Denis and Ernest) some three years ago and they haven't looked back since.

The reds line up at L'Atitude!

Heard the child of Prague story in L’Atitude to where we had retreated between beats on the streets. Haven't they got a magnificent collection of wines in there many of which come in 75ml, 150ml or 250ml (pichet) size servings.. As a guitarist played in the background we, who drink mainly European,  made something of a round the world trip on their reds: Australia for Cat Among the Pigeons Cabernet Sauvignon, California for Zinfandel, Lebanon for Massaya, and Argentina for Malbec. Favourite was perhaps the Massaya.

Moved on then to what we thought was a funeral, New Orleans style and starting outside the English Market at 5.30. We were there in good time but no sign of a corpse! Indeed no sign of life until the New York Brass Band turned up to inject massive fun into the proceedings. These guys are not from New York at all but from York in England. Why don't we twin with a town like that and guys like this?

They impressed on last year’s visit and were in top form on Saturday. They immediately commandeered any street furniture with a bit of height and soon had the crowd singing along, spilling out on to the parade and almost stopping the traffic. Great session guys and well done.

Beat 'n Blow

And this is all free. Have to say that the organisers put on a fantastic in-depth programme here in the city every year, anything from learning the ropes to impromptu stuff on the streets, to the extensive music trail around the pubs, to the fringe and to the serious (some not so serious) concerts.

Beat ‘n Blow were another band that I enjoyed last season. Saw the group from Berlin walking by the Opera House and followed them up to Paul Street where they put on a typically energetic engaging display in the plaza. They couldn't believe how the weather had changed from the morning rain and really enjoyed the sun and we all enjoyed their music. Great stuff folks.

In the meantime, the jazz goes on today and indeed you are sure to see the New York Brass Band and the Beat ‘n Blow on the streets and in the venues. And, as I write this, the sun is out. Let's go down town and blow up a storm!

Beat 'n Blow

Little Beauty Comes Home

Little Beauty Comes Home

Bringing Gold

Maurice O'Mahony of Wine Alliance introduces
Little Beauty's Fleur McCree.

Little Beauty’s Fleur McCree says demand is high for her 600 cases of limited edition Riesling. She even sells it into Germany and has had a recent query from Japan where the grape is "all the rage with the young affluent Japanese woman”. It will be all the rage in other places too with yesterday’s news that her 2010 from Marlborough has won the New Zealand Regional Award (for Riesling selling at under fifteen pounds sterling) in the Decanter World Wine Awards!

The wine, made from less than 2 hectares of vines, is a “refreshing lemon lime” and “deliberately made dry”. It is the drink anytime wine, the “lager of wine” according to Fleur who loves it with roast pork.

The second wine at last week’s tasting in L’Atitude 51, who supplied some really tasty bites for each wine, was the Pinot Gris, again from less than two hectares of vines. “Pinot Gris loves the stones, the water, and the sun.” It just takes off in these conditions and that can, in the wrong hands, lead to quantity over quality.

So it has to be reined in. Bunches are removed. Must be done by hand as machines can’t decide which bunches to discard. “Concentration in Pinot Gris means quality” and it is “the most pampered variety in the vineyard”. Here you have lip smacking flavour, oily, yet drier than the Riesling. Don’t over chill it and use with nuts, pork crab and so on.

Sauvignon Blanc is perhaps the typical Marlborough wine. Little Beauty’s 2010 is, I think, a little bit more restrained than the usual Marlborough and the better for it. The different blocks around the vineyard ripen at different times yet the intense fruit is preserved and there is “a build-up of layers of flavour to enhance the experience. Mango, Passion fruit at the start followed by Citrusy flavours mid-palate and then basil at the back of the tongue”. Really top notch.

The Gold medal news was the first surprise at the well attended tasting. You can’t taste gold medals but we could taste the second surprise: the Black Beauty Edition of Sauvignon Blanc. Only 200 cases were produced from a few selected rows and this was a world first for Ireland. “...quick harvested...and then put into small old barriques (French), barriques that are ten to twenty years old...no stainless steel is used..fermentation is in the barrel...no cultured yeast...just the local wild yeast”.

And that intensive management pays off. “It is a beautiful fruit wine..lots of texture..creamier...richer...use with pork chops and garlic.”

“Hello, you exotic Little Beauty”, was Fleur’s greeting to the next wine, the Gewurztraminer, as she sniffed the Turkish Delight on the nose. This comes from two different one hectare plots, from two different clones of a variety that is “lazy in the vineyard”.

Its sweet fruitiness is balanced by “a clear acidity”. “It is a food wine, very versatile.” She advised us to try it with Cheeses, Foie Gras, Terrines, spicy crab and fragrant curries.

Now it was time for the final wine, Pinot Noir, the only red in the Little Beauty team. The Marlborough sun will not ripen the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz and so Pinot Noir is the most common red variety in the area.

This, hand harvested from between six and seven hectares, has a short spell in stainless steel before aging for 12 months in oak. It is a terrific example of the variety. “Complex but in a friendly way! Soft silky and a hint of tannins. Enjoy, definitely, with Pan-fried duck breasts.”

Just another Little Beauty in a beautiful wine tasting in L’Atitude’s superbly appointed upstairs room, made for just such an occasion. May there be many more of them. 

Little Beauty wines are imported by Wine Alliance. It is widely available around the country so check out the stockists here.

Wine Geese events

Tuesday May 28th, Cafe Paradiso: Presentation & Tasting with winemaker Emma Cullen of Cullen Wines, Margaret River, Australia in Café Paradiso in association with Liberty Wines.

July 11th, Crawford Art Gallery: “A Bordeaux Evening in Cork” with Pierre Lawton, Bordeaux and Ted Murphy, author of “A Kingdom of Wine – a Celebration of Ireland’s Wine Geese”.

 (Part Two)

Little Beauty Comes Home

 (Part One)

In 1825, thirty year old John Cox welcomed his new son William into the world in Passage West, Co. Cork. William, who married in 1846, was one of the first Europeans to settle in New Zealand and died there in 1899.

William was the great, great great grandfather of Fleur McCree, co-owner of Marlborough winery Little Beauty, who was back in town last Thursday evening, her tutored wine-tasting, in Union Quay’s L’Atitude 51, part of the current Wine Geese Series.

“Marlborough is the home of Little Beauty and a very important place for me,” she said. “There we have 2,500 hours of sunshine annually and clear skies. If you go to New Zealand be sure to have your sunglasses with you when you land in Auckland, it is so bright.”

Marlborough is into farming both on land and on sea and has “a huge reputation for such a little place”. But its grape history is a very short one. The first were planted in 1972 and the hopeful farmer was told he “was bonkers”.

Fleur, who had always had a terrific affinity with nature (sleeping as a child on her trampoline under those bright bright stars),decided in the late 90s to get into wine – for keeps!

The apprenticeship took quite a while. Scouting trips to Alsace, Burgundy, the Douro, Napa Valley and Mendoza (among other places) yielded valuable knowledge before she and her partner decided to settle back home. But then they spent years in London, working to raise capital before eventually starting up in Marlborough where they now farm 41 hectares of vines, which is a tiny area, considering that there are 33,000 hectares under production in New Zealand.

They first planted in 2002/3 and then of course they had to wait for their first harvest. But two years later they were in for a big shock when a severe frost wiped out blocks of their Sauvignon Blanc. And two years later again, a once in a sixty year flood caused major damage again. Tears then but only for a brief period. “Then I realised we were essentially farmers. This was what we had to deal with.” And deal with it they did. It is not an easy life ”but rewarding”.

Labour is scare here and machines are necessary (though not used in all areas, Pinot Gris and Noir are hand harvested for example). The versatile tractor is put to good use. To preserve the freshness and flavours, they have to use the machines to make the harvest “really quick”.

Perhaps one of the most ingenious machines is what looks like a windmill and nine of these are scattered around the vineyard and used to prevent the blanket of frost settling. While New Zealand enjoys long hours of sunshine, the day’s highs (maybe late twenties) can be followed by very cold nights. But the blades on these machines oscillate and rotate and succeed in fighting off the frost.

A state of the art technology network across the site captures real time data variables from Mother Nature and, among other things, helps dictate when the wind machines (and which wind machine) comes into play. The use of stainless steel, copied from the thriving local dairy industry, is widespread, though oak barriques are also used in Little Beauty.

The fledging Little Beauty earned its early keep by selling its Sauvignon grapes to Cloudy Bay. The cash helped them develop the vineyard and then they got a huge boost when Eveline Fraser, then head wine-maker with Cloudy Bay, decided to join the rookies!

You’ve often heard of the passionate vineyard owner. Last Thursday night we saw one in action in L’Atitude. “I’m very fussy over where Little Beauty goes. Come hell or high water, you’ll never find Little Beauty in a supermarket. It goes only to good homes. Integrity is very important nowadays. A wine made with integrity or an accountant’s wine. Which would you prefer?”

I reckon William Cox would have been proud of his great great great grand daughter!

Fleur also had a couple of real surprises for us during the tasting and I’ll have that and more on the Little Beauty wines themselves in Part Two tomorrow.

Wine Geese Land at L’Atitude

Wine Geese Land at L’Atitude

Some distinguished wine landed at L’Atitude 51 last evening with Jane Boyce MW in charge of the seven strong group, aided and abetted by Conor O’Brien of James Nicholson Wines .

Jane, a superb commentator all through, kept the best ‘til last: Chateau Langoa Barton 2008 (St Julian, Bordeaux) and Chateau Phelan Segur 2005 (St Estephe, Bordeaux).

Maybe because it has three years on its younger rival and maybe because 2005 was “a fantastic year” most of the audience preferred the Phelan Segur to its “less developed” left bank rival, not that I’d have turned either of these Medoc wines.

You may see the fantastic Phelan story here. The Barton site is under repair, methinks, but there is a terrific account of the Irish family here.

We got off to a great start with a glass of one of the oldest sparkling wines in the world, this from a vineyard started “by a Dutchman and a West Cork lady”: Rives-Blanques Blanquette Limoux 2009 (Limoux, France). Top class, lots of tiny bubbles that kept coming, and half the price of champagne.

Now for an even lighter pink, this time the still rosée from Chateau Vignelaure La Source 2011 (Provence), from a vineyard restored from the ruins about 20 years back by Kathleen and David O’Brien (of the famous horse training family). The current Dutch owners value the Irish connection.

Australia’s Clare Valley is named after the Irish county and provided us with the next wine: Pikes Riesling 2012. Jane explained that, with Riesling, the moment of harvesting is critical, the wine being made more in the vineyard than in the winery. They sure got it right with this one.

There was a County Tyrone connection with the final white, the Domaine Sainte Rose Barrel fermented Roussanne 2009 (Languedoc, France), but there was quite a split in the audience here as quite a few didn’t like the oak. It certainly had the toast and honey but was really well balanced with the “backlash of a spicy hot finish”. Jane recommended matching it with char-grilled food and also smoked salmon and so on.

Alan Brady, a newspaper man from the foothills of the Mourne Mountains is credited with starting Pinot Noir cultivation in New Zealand. He was told he was mad as “this is a very difficult variety to grow”. Last night’s audience, who enjoyed some delicious canapés all through, were glad that Alan stuck with and I think everyone enjoyed the Mount Edward Pinot Noir 2008 from Central Otago in New Zealand.

And then it was on to the splendid conclusion. But as that evening ended the Bringing the Wine Geese committee stayed behind to plan ahead. Some great evenings have already been lined up and many more are in the planning stage, all under the umbrella of The Gathering.

If you have any ideas, big or small, on the Irish wine connection, then why not get in touch. Just to get an idea of what is in the pipeline, please check out the list here.

Lunchtime at L’Atitude

Lunchtime at L’Atitude

Enjoyed a light lunch with a difference at L’Atitude 51, the newish Wine Cafe opposite the City Hall (1, Union Quay). The choice, see photo of board, is not huge but the quality is excellent.

There is an even bigger board, much bigger, where you can see the huge wine list; must be over fifty choices. In many cases, you can buy by the small taster glass (75ml), a full glass (150ml) and also by the pichet (250ml).

While waiting, I decided to try one of the taster glasses and picked the 2008 Cat Amongst the Pigeons, Cabernet Sauvignon, from Australia’s McLaren Vale. Later, with the meal, I enjoyed the 2008 Massaya Classic (Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah) from the Lebanon. Both come under the Fruity with Attitude heading on the list and each was excellent.

They also have a range of beers here, including some local craft brews. Indeed, you may try 8 Degrees Brewing HowlingGale here straight from the tap and it was great to meet up with Scott from the new Mitchelstown company who was making a call.

Coffee too comes from a local Cork company, Badger and Dodo. They know their stuff and so do the servers so you’ll enjoy the best here; I did, but before I got to that stage there was some eating to be done!

Emma Lagrande, who runs the wine cafe along with Beverly Matthews, recommended I try the Haddock Chowder. Very good and excellent value at €4.50. I had seen some of the sandwiches being served and they looked tempting but I opted for the Spiced Vegetable Pie, a tasty dish at a bargain price of €6.50 and served with a well dressed salad.

Service was friendly, low key and top notch, just the way I like it. My only regret was that I was I couldn't make it back for dinner that evening. Would have liked to have tried the Frogs’ Legs on the menu! Vive la différence.

The Week in Wine

THE WEEK IN WINE

Straccali Chianti Classico DOCG 2007, 13.5%, €13.95, Karwig

 

Colour: Ruby Red

Nose: Intense, of red fruit.

On the palate, it is fresh and fruity, slight spice, tannins relatively prominent. It is well balanced, medium bodied, lively and with a persistent finish. Unfortunately, I started this off on the cool side, can happen on the colder days here, and it took a while to win me over but it certainly grew on me as it warmed up! Recommended.

It turned out to be a good week on the wine front. On a visit to the L’Atitude Wine Cafe on Union Quay, I came across two outstanding reds on their extensive list. Both come under the Fruity with Attitude heading.

First up was the 2008 Cat Amongst the Pigeons, Cabernet Sauvignon, from Australia’s McLaren Vale and then I enjoyed the 2008 Massaya Classic (Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah) from the Lebanon.

Not too bad on the home front either where I continued to work my way through the reds of Provence. The first, La Citadelle’s Les Artemes 2007 from the Luberon, is available in this country from the Wine Store.

I don’t think the second is; I bought it in the small town of Vauvert on the edge of the Camargue. It is Noble Gress 2005, Costieres de Nimes. I think there is value for Irish importers in the region.

It was a good week too for Enniskeane born Brother Kevin Crowley, founder of the Capuchin Day Centre in Bow Street in Dublin, who has been named the Santa Rita 120 Local Hero 2012  for his phenomenal work in helping homeless people.

The Santa Rita 120 Local Hero Award competition is run by the premium Chilean winemakers to find local heroes who make a real difference in their local community, such as hard working volunteers, individuals who work tirelessly to make their community a safer place and inspirational heroes who always seem to put others before themselves. 

As the Santa Rita 120 Local Hero 2012, Brother Kevin wins €10,000 for The Capuchin Day Centre as well as the trip of a lifetime for two to Chile, the home of Santa Rita wine.


And John McDonnell, the face of Australian wine in Ireland, also enjoyed a great week at Pro-Wein where Penfolds chief winemaker Peter Gago was given the Winemakers’ Winemaker Award by the Institute of Masters of Wine and the drinks business. 

Little Beauty Comes To Town

Fleur (centre) with L'Atitude owners Beverley (left) and Emma

Tom (left, Fleur and Cathal

Fleur with Maurice of Wine Alliance

Little Beauty Comes To Town

In 2002, the land in Waihopai Valley, Marlborough, New Zealand, where the grapes for the Little Beauty wines  now grow, was a sheep farm. Fleur McCree and her partner spotted its potential and got to work, planting from scratch and patiently waiting three years for their first crop.

“It was exactly the kind of place we were looking for and we wanted to work it,” she told the appreciative audience as she held a tutored tasting of the wines upstairs in the newly opened L’Atitude Wine Cafe at No 1 Union Quay.


There were many hurdles to overcome, including starting to sell their first wines as the recession hit. But sell she did and sell she does, this Irish call the prelude to trips to Scandanavia and Russia and maybe a call to Pro-Wine.

She sells these wines to luxury hotels in the UK and the prices there really underscore the point that Little Beauty’s Irish Importer Maurice O’Mahony of Wine Alliance  makes frequently: these wines over perform at their price points.

Irish stockists sell the range at anything from €15.00 for the Sauvignon Blanc to 25 for the Pinot Noir. In the likes of Claridges, the Savoy and the Gleneagles you’d be paying anything from 50 pounds sterling to 70.

Prices could well rise here. The emergence of China, Hong Kong and Japan as big markets for NZ wine has pushed Ireland from 5th to 8th in the league of NZ wine importers. If that trend continues, it is possible that less and less wine from that beautiful far country will find its way here.

We started off with the 2009 dry Riesling. This was bursting with flavours, fine, balanced and refreshing. A Bronze Medal Winner at the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Challenge, this wine is currently being presented at 2* Michelin Restaurant, Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles, Scotland.

Marlborough is the home of NZ Sauvignon Blanc and when you know that the Little Beauty winemaker Eveline Fraser was “stolen” form Cloudy Bay, you know this is going to be good, and it didn’t disappoint. It is indeed “A fine example of an aromatic, intense and mouth-watering single vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc”.

The limited edition Pinot Gris was next up and by the way all the wines were accompanied by really tasty nibbles from the kitchen at L’Atitude, quite a reminder to the punters that this a venue worth visiting on a regular basis. The pale Pinot Gris had a fresh and inviting aroma and felt full and creamy on the palate, a step up for sure on some regular Pinot Grigio visitors to these parts.

Fleur and yours truly

Next tasting was the 2009 Gewürztraminer. This was strongly aromatic and pleasingly luscious but stopped well before reaching full sweetness. Goes well with Asian cuisine.

And then came the Pinot Noir, the silky star of an altogether excellent show, and Fleur recommended matching it with lamb. It is a gorgeous wine, full of plum, raspberry and red cherry flavours. It has an attractive background spice and has benefitted from 12 months in new French oak.

A Little Beauty to finish a delightful session in L’Atitude. The Wine Cafe intends holding a series of these events and the next, on the Rhone (presented by Simon Tyrrell of the Wine Store), takes places on Monday March 5th. Check with the venue for tickets.

And that isn't all. L’Atitude also holds classes for both novices and those interested in going further and indeed the next series is due to start shortly. The contact number is 021 2390219 or email: info@latitude51.ie. Also keep an eye on their Facebook page