Wild Honey Inn. A special place.

Wild Honey Inn

 Any county that can hold a banquet with all the food and drink coming from within its own border, as Clare did in Ennis on October 5th, must have some good restaurants. And there are some brilliant ones in the Banner – they regularly turn up on the awards list - but the one we choose on a recent overnight stay was the Wild Honey Inn  in Lisdoonvarna. In a relaxed roadside pub just outside the town, Aidan McGrath turns out delightful dishes.

We called pretty early, just after six and, having been on the go all day, had a good appetite. First though, a drink. Spotted some craft beer on the counter and picked a bottle of the Copper Coast Red Ale made by the Dungarvan Brewing Company. Settled into our comfortable seat and, with help from the friendly waitress, we ordered.

As it turned out, our dishes were all off the Specials menu, with the exception of the exceptional dessert. My starter was the Ham Hock Terrine, celeriac remoulade, salsa verde (€8.90). Quality ingredients in a well presented dish and the same could be said about CL’s starter of Dill Cured Salmon, pickled fennel and cucumber, sauce gravadlax (8.90). Two super tasty starters and we had confirmation that all good things we had heard about the Inn were true.

 We were tempted by the Halibut Troncon with Saffron ratte potato but both went for the other special: Veal Feather Blade, pearl barley, carrot and cumin puree, young leeks (€19.90). Aidan said this was a rare cut and he sure made the best of it.

The whole dish looked well and tasted well. You could have cut the meat with your spoon and the use of the pearl barley was also a rare delight. Even the potatoes that came as a side were top notch. Quality all the way from the farm to the kitchen to the table.

The Apple and Blueberry crumble that we shared for dessert was another winner. The humble apple was the main ingredient, a beautiful example of the fruit, cut into plentiful mini chunks, so juicy. And the fruit wasn't buried under a mound of crumble, just a thin tasty sheet. A gorgeous combination to end a gorgeous meal.

With the friendliness of Aidan and his crew and the top drawer food, the Wild Honey was one of the highlights of our trip to the delightful county of Clare, a place where there is so much to see and do, not to mention so much to eat and drink!

 Also visited: Cliffs of Moher  The Burren Brewery  St Tola Goat Cheese Lahinch area Ballyvaughan Tea and Garden Rooms The Burren

The Burren Brewery

The Burren Brewery

Ireland's Smallest Micro-Brewery!

When you walk into the Roadside Tavern in Lisdoonvarna, you see the normal beer dispensers on the high counter. But then, in the middle, you see something totally different: three unusual taps labelled Gold, Red and Black.

Owner Peter Curtin has his own brewery here, “the smallest micro-brewery in Ireland”, and the taps, designed by a local artist, dispense his lager (Burren Gold), ale (Burren Red) and stout (Burren Black). And very tasty they are too, as we discovered after a tasting of the three.

The brewery, just over 12 months old, is upstairs and Peter showed us up his stairway to heaven! It is all neat and compact. He has got some very good gear here and a great love for the task as we found out. And the pub is the only place that you can get these beers.

The pub itself, just a few miles from the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher, has a very long history, in family hands since 1893. But the Curtins were also bakers and that history goes back even further, hundreds of years. Nowadays the pub is also noted for its food and, this year, was voted “Best Gastro-pub in Munster” by the Restaurants Association of Ireland.

 Timing wasn’t quite right for us to eat there but the menu is filled with delicious dishes such as traditional Irish bacon, Cabbage and Parsley sauce and a slightly less traditional rendition of Irish stew (featuring local Burren beef in place of the more typical lamb).

Pride of place is given to several dishes featuring Smoked Fish and Eel from the family's award-winning Burren Smokehouse, run by Peter and Birgitta Curtin. Try the Burren smoked fish platter which is served with organic leaves from nearby New Quay. The Burren Smokehouse  is literally a few yards down the road and well worth a visit. And they have a great shop there too with local products from other producers. You may also buy online.

And don’t skip dessert in the Tavern. Peter says they are fabulous, homemade by Fabiola's Patisserie in Doolin. Fabiola has worked in Michelin starred restaurants and you may also sample her pastry delights at the Cafe in the Doolin Crafts Centre.


Food and good beer. What more do you want? Well, you get much more in this bar as there is a fantastic music programme throughout the season. That series is drawing to a close now but not before paying a massive tribute to Micilín Conlon (who played in the pub for all of 57 years) over three nights (26th,27th,28th of October). And, on the Saturday and Sunday (4.00 to 6.00pm), there will be a tasting combining the local beers, breads and cheese. Sounds great.

If you like a laugh, you’ll never be short of one with Peter and his crew in the Roadside. His sense of humour was seen at its sharpest recently when he more or less hi-jacked the Thursday set aside for Arthur and instead designated it Peter’s Day with pints of Burren Beer selling at three euro.

The beers are very popular with tourists. They are good, really good. So why not call in if you are in the area. Worth a detour, as they say in the best guides.

 Also visited: Cliffs of Moher   Wild Honey Inn  St Tola Goat Cheese Lahinch area Ballyvaughan Tea and Garden Rooms The Burren

Blair's Inn Wine Dinner

Blair's Inn Host Chateau-Lascaux Wine Dinner

Just heard from Conor O'Brien of James Nicholson Wines: "Blair's Inn are hosting a Wine Dinner with Meredith Hyslop from Chateau-Lascaux  on the 31st of October." Some of the most exciting wine-making in France these days is happening in the Languedoc and it is there that Chateau-Lascaux is situated, between Montpellier and Nîmes. The Dinner Menu below includes the wines that will be tasted on the night. Quality  food and quality wines, all for €55.00.

Two Jean Smullen Events - Prime Cuts & Premium Wine

In South Africa most young men learn the art of cooking over a Braai. They learn at an early age that to master the basic art of cooking meat is an important life skill. The wine culture too is strong in South Africa, everyone there knows that great glass of red wine goes hand in hand with a perfectly seasoned steak. Want to know more?

Come along to the special Prime Cuts & Premium Winenights. Learn about what to look for, how to assess quality and then how to skilfully cut and cook meat. Do you know your flank from your rump? Where do the prime cuts come from? This innovative and educational evening will reveal lots of interesting information about the art of choosing, buying and cooking meat.

Dublin:- Ely Wine Bar & Brasserie, on Wednesday 31st October, 2012. Ryan Stringer Executive Chef will be on hand to share his expertise and knowledge about meat and the art butchery.

Cork:- Barry’s of Douglas, on Wednesday 14th November, 2012. Alan Murphy, Chef at Barry’s in Douglas has many years experience as a specialist meat chef. His years of working in country houses means he has a great knowledge of meat and game. But there’s more.....

Wine & Meat .... When the fat and protein found in the beef meets the tannin found in a red wine, a chemical reaction takes place . Cooking the prefect steak is relatively easy, but the high heat creates complex, assertive flavours, ranging from sweet to savoury. These bold flavours need a wine with enough body and boldness to stand up to them, so what to choose?

South African wine sits well at any table and wine expert Jean Smullen will take you through a range of top quality wines that are a perfect match with meat. We will look at some of the best South African wines including Nederburg; Durbanville Hills; Fleur du Cap; Two Oceans; and Drostdy Hof and we’ll match them with a selection of meat dishes. The evening will start with bubbles, enjoy a glass of the very elegant Cap Classique from Pongrancz.

Tickets Priced: €25.00 per person.

TO BOOK Contact: Jean Smullen WSET Dip Tel:             (086) 816 8468       email: jean@jeansmullen.com

Cornstore Wine Dinner

On Thursday 18th October, in association with Curious Wines, The Cornstore in Cork will hold a Chateau Bauduc Wine Dinner, with each course of the five specially created to match each of the five wines from the Château, which will be presented by Gavin Quinney of the chateau.You can get your tickets (€45.00) to this unique event at The Cornstore Cork or in the Curious Wines Warehouse.

Where: The Cornstore, 40A Cornmarket Street, Cork.

When: Thursday, 18th October, 2012, 7.00pm to 10.00pm.

Click here for a fuller list of Autumn Wine Events including Kitchen Cafe (Galway) Oct 10, Hayfield Manor Oct 11, ely Bar & Brasserie Oct 11, Fallon and Byrne Oct 25, and Ballymaloe Nov 8.

Amuse Bouche

 “We had the tastiest baked goods at Barbara’s Bake Shoppe, the meatiest, most face-smearing ribs and crispiest fried chicken at a restaurant called the Country Gentleman, the best junk food at a drive-in called George the Chilli King. (And the vast farts afterwards. A George’s Chilli Burger was gone in minutes, but the farts, it was said, went on for ever.).
- From Thunderbolt Kid by Bill Bryson.

Oysters. The Clarion's New Dining Gem!

Oysters. New Dining Gem in the Clarion!

 Oysters  is a welcome addition to the Cork dining scene and not just because it specialises in fish. It has taken the place of Augustine’s in the Clarion Hotel. Service is friendly and efficient and most importantly the food, fish and otherwise, is top notch.

Made my “debut” there the other day and must I was well pleased with the €35.00 menu (see bottom) which is served from 5.30pm to 7.00pm. Started off with a Tomato and Herbs shot, an Amuse Bouche that brought the appetite to attention.

My second course was also something of a tease. The sea-bass tartare was lively and tasty and left me looking forward to more.  While CL was delighted with her Crab, we agreed that the Sea-bass was a better choice.

Crab

Then it was on to the soups. Well, they came in gorgeous soup bowls but were much more than soup. CL had the Chowder and thought it brilliant. And my Velouté struck the spot with the first sip. Both five star dishes!

Cheese

Now down to the serious stuff, the main course. We both went for the Fish of the Day, in this case cod, a beautiful well cooked wedge, quite substantial too. The Boulangere Potatoes was a tasty stack, lighter and healthier than Dauphinoise and just as impressive, while the Baby Gem stew and the delicious broad beans really demonstrated what a chef can do with a sauce without resorting to cream and butter. The whole dish was a thoughtful blend and a delight to dispatch, not that we rushed it one little bit.

Strawberries

No rush either with the dessert, just a decent pause. CL picked the Strawberries and, oh boy,  was she happy. Presentation was delightful and that fact that the berries were served at room temperature enhanced the experience.

I choose the Cheeseboard, despite the rather stiff fiver supplement. It was good, very good, a well judged mix: Hibernian (from Fermoy), Wicklow Brie and Cashel Blue and some really nice bits and pieces on the board as well.

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting

Buy Irish Biscuits
Christmas shopping will be starting soon and you’ll be tempted by large displays of imported shortbread biscuits. I saw some yesterday while waiting in line at TKMaxx! But think before you buy. Why not buy Irish this year and pick up a few packs of Seymour’s. They are top notch, a cut above most of the tinned imports, and made in Bandon!

One of the highlights of visiting local food festivals is meeting up with the producers and that certainly proved the case at last month’s Midleton Food Festival.

One of the “new" people I met was Philip O’Connor of Seymour Fine Foods  who are based in West Cork and are quite well known for their fabulous biscuits. I had sampled the biscuits previously at Irish Foodie in Blackpool.

But they are widely available around the country and you may see the full list of stockists here. And, it is not just Ireland, as Seymours are available in 42 stores in France! Check out their online shop as well.

More and more cheese, most of it local and Irish, is appearing on the Irish table and Seymours have a range of biscuits to match. They have quite a range overall and there are still a few that I am looking forward to trying, including Cranberry and Almond and also their Raspberry bites.

‎Midleton Farmers Market‎
“October Bank Holiday Weekend is fast approaching. Very excited to announce micro brewers and local cheese producers to attend Midleton Farmers Market again this year for free beer and cheese tasting event. It was a huge success last year. So put 27th October @ Midleton Farmers Market in your diary to kick off the Jazz weekend. See you there.”

Art and Food
Many of you spend time in Museums and Galleries nowadays, whether on holidays or here at home. You usually need some sustenance and we have a great example close to us in Cork where Fresco Bistro can fill that gap when you call to the Glucksman. Not just fill that gap, mind you. Fresco, run by Brian and Chef Kash, serves up interesting food of a very high standard.

 But it didn’t make a World Top Ten list recently published in the London Evening Standard (online version, at least).

A tiny garden café attached to the little known Garden Museum in London did make it. Just room for one in the kitchen apparently, two if you count the person doing the washing up. It is the only London museum restaurant on the list which also includes at number two, Nerua, the one star Michelin restaurant at the Guggenheim in Bilbao that I visited this year. Don’t know who drew up the list but, if anyone does, let them know about Fresco!

The Dingle Food Festival is this weekend’s big event and you may see the full  programme here.

Wine
Gary Gubbins of Red Nose Wines has been in touch: “We are delighted to announce that we are finally holding our first wine course. It will be a 5 week course commencing Thursday October 11th and will cost €75 person. It will run from 7.30pm to 9pm every Thursday for 5 weeks and take place in the warehouse unless numbers demand a bigger venue. More details here.

More Autumn Wine Events

Shorts

Lots of autumnal beef recipes via Bord Bia 

The making of Toons Bridge Mozzarella, a Dan Linehan video on You tube

Market Lane Christmas menu

Recipe for Kinvara Smoked Salmon and Crab Parcel

Two of the old Reserves

Two of the old Reserves

Marques de Riscal, Rioja Reserva 2006, 14%, €12.80, Venta Gora (Navarra).
Ninety per cent Tempranillo in this Cherry red Rioja. Dark fruits and spice, balsamic hints on the nose. On the palate, it is full and fruity, rich and rounded, super tasty with a persistent finish. A classic Rioja and highly recommended.

Remelluri, Rioja Reserva 2006, 13.5%, €13.32, Venta Mugica (Irabar).

The nose is your normal Rioja, fruity with a bit of spice. Some spice also on the palate and rounded fruit flavours, maybe too rounded I thought at first! Seemed to lack any distinctive characters but I had started it off too cool and, on warming up, we re-introduced ourselves, the characters came through and we got on well together. Subtle rather than in your face, it is tasty and smooth with a warm and persistent finish.

The grapes used are Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano. It has spent 17 months in oak, 70% French and 30% US. Unusually for Rioja, all Remelluri wines are made from estate grown grapes and this dark red is a good one. Highly recommended.

I bought these at Ventas on the Spanish side of the French border. Ventas are rather ugly concentrations of purpose built large shops selling everything from shoes to wines to petrol at prices cheaper than just across the road in France. Rioja wines are fairly widely available in Ireland. Try places like O’Brien’s, Superquin, Bradley’s Off Licence, Mitchel & Son. On the net, check via http://www.wine-searcher.com

A hilltop Venta

Massive Pinot Noir Event in New Zealand

Sam Neill

Massive Pinot Noir Event
 in New Zealand


Actor and now wine-maker Sam Neill (Jurassic Park, Reilly Ace of Spies, The Piano, The Dish, Dead Calm, Hunt for Red October) will be among the speakers when Pinot Noir 2013 NZ gets underway on 28 January 2013. Emmanuel L.T. Bourguignon, Tim Atkin MW and Ned Goodwin MW are listed among the other speakers.

New Zealand wine-maker Larry McKenna, during his recent visit to Cork, told me enthusiastically about the huge wine event on the Wellington Water Front. No surprise to see Larry pushing it. After all he is better known as Larry McPinot and makes some fantastic examples himself as he showed recently in Ballymaloe.

Pinot Noir 2013 NZ  is going to be massive. The website tells me there are over 120 days to go and there will be almost as many New Zealand wineries there showing their examples of this grape. Some competition here for Burgundy!

All the country’s famous wine regions will be represented: Auckland, Hawkes Bay, Nelson, Wairarapa/Martinborough, Marlborough, North Canterbury/Waipara Valley, Waitaki and Central Otago. Many of the wine-makers will be unfamiliar to us but some that I know are Tim and Judy Finn’s Neudorf, Villa Maria, Cloudy Bay and McPinot's own Escarpment.

"Initiated in 2001, and now dubbed as the "fresh thinking" event, Pinot Noir NZ digs deeper into New Zealand's five Pinot producing regions, bringing the latest developments from the grass roots level. Learn of new innovations direct from the winemakers as they make available over 300 wines to be tasted and reviewed. Freestyle forums allow for uncensored opinions to be heard on the fastest growing wine story of the 21st Century.

Guest speakers offer fresh opinions on the latest international thinking about Pinot. At previous events speakers have included Jancis Robinson MW, Oz Clarke, Tim Atkin MW, Allen Meadows, Claude Bourguignon, Andrew Caillard MW and more.

Pinot Noir NZ pushes Pinot to the limit, testing whether Pinot really is one of the most versatile red grape varieties to match with food. Both the wild and the raw are explored as guests are offered the freshest cuisine from the welcome party to the final gala dinner.

The Pinot story in New Zealand is continuing to develop at pace. Pinot Noir NZ is the place to be to keep ahead of the game.”

Delegate registrations are open now and you can find all the contact information here! Bon voyage and Bon Pinot!

Saturday Afternoon in English Market

Saturday Afternoon in English Market

Saturday Afternoon in English Market

A change of dining plan for tonight meant a quick dash to the English Market this afternoon and to the Frank Hederman stall in particular. The aim here was to secure a couple of their tempting Fish pies (Smoked haddock, spinach cream, lovely mash).

That accomplished, I made a call to On the Pigs Back for some Bayonne ham and Arbutus Sourdough. Great to see the West Cork Garlic on sale there.

Made a quick dash to the chemist then to get some Senna Leaves and Wrights Coal Tar Soap. Only joking! Instead, I enjoyed a lovely reasonably priced cup of Maher’s coffee and very friendly service in the Arthur Mayne Wine Bar (which features quite a lot of old pharmacy related items).

Nearly jumped going up Bridge when a chorus of police sirens broke the peace and quiet but they were just escorting a big bunch on a Cancer Cycle. Just your typical Saturday afternoon downtown.

Superb Events in Autumn Wine Diary

Superb Events in Autumn Wine Diary

Hayfield Manor’s Wine Society offers the ultimate wine tasting experience in Cork. Each of our Society evenings feature vintages selected from among the finest domaines in the world, with a five course meal specially created by our Executive Chef, Graeme Campbell, to match the individual qualities of each wine.

The next Hayfield Manor Wine Society takes place on Thursday, 11th October 2012 at 7.00pm. The evening begins with aperitifs and an introduction to wines by Noel Tymlin from Findlater Wines followed by a 5 course menu with a different Italian wine per course.

This tasting will feature regions from northern and central Italy and wine that will be featured include:
·         Santa Cristina (Trebiano) which is light white wine

·         Montepulciano D'Abruzzo which is a light-medium red wine

·         Masi Macianco which is a dry Pinot Grigio

·         Campofiorini which is a full bodied red wine

·         Ca 'Bianca - Muscato D'Asti which is a dessert wine


Dinner is €79.00 per person and is served from 7.30pm with five different wines to match each course.

Limited spaces are available, therefore an early reservation is strongly recommended.
Further details are available on www.hayfieldmanor.ie/winesociety
To book please phone Charlotte on             021-4845909       or email events@hayfieldmanor.ie

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Wine Australia  in association with the Irish Times
Galway and Dublin Tastings

Wine Australia is delighted to be hosting another delicious wine tasting in Dublin on Thursday 11th October.

The tastings will be presented by Irish Times wine writer John Wilson and Wine Australia’s John Mc Donnell and the Dublin event will be hosted in ely Bar and Brassiere, Custom House Quay in the IFSC between 7pm and 8.30pm while the Galway venue is The Kitchen Café & Restaurant.

 The wine line up will include some of the great wine styles that Australia has become known for, as well as a few unusual offerings to challenge the perception that Australia only makes Chardonnay and Shiraz.

The cost to join the tasting is €25 per person and please use this Irish Times link to book directly. With some delicious nibbles served during the evening this should be another fun, and tasty, event. Places are limited so please book early to join us for a great night.

The Details again
DUBLIN, Date; Thursday 11th October, Time: 7pm – 8.30pm, Venue: ely Bar & Brassiere, Custom House Quay, IFSC, Dublin 1. Cost. €25 per person. Bookings: Direct with the Irish Times (link above).

GALWAY, Date; Wednesday 10th October, Time: 7pm – 8.30pm, Venue: The Kitchen Café & Restaurant at the Galway City Museum, Spanish Parade, The Latin Quarter. Cost. €25 per person. Bookings; Direct with the Irish Times (link above).

If you require any further information please contact Wine Australia’s John Mc Donnell on Ireland@wineaustralia.com or 065 7077264




The Many Faces of Australian Shiraz.
Winemaker Tim Adams is back in Dublin and brings us on a tour of Australia on the good ship Shiraz.
Our tasting aims to challenge the perception that there is only one version of Australian Shiraz.
We hope to show that region, sub region, winemaking, vine age and vintage all contribute to more than one style of the variety from Australia.

Date: Thursday 25th October.
Time: 7pm - 8.30pm.
Venue: Fallon and Byrne, 11 - 17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2
Cost: 20 Euro per person
Reserve your place with Wine Australia on ireland@wineaustralia.com

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Tuscan Wine and Olive Oil at Ballymaloe

8th November 2012, 7pm

The Ballymaloe Sherry event has been postponed from October until the New Year  but don't despair, they have a major event early in November.
An Italian evening - wines of Tuscany & New Season’s Olive Oil
with the owners of Fontodi, Selvapiana and Villa di Capezzana, and ‘New Seasons Tuscan Olive Oil’ launch, with the owners of some of Tuscany’s iconic Olive Oil & Wine Estates, including Bea Contini Bonacossi, from Capezzana, Carmignano; Federico Giuntini, Selvapiana, Rufina; Giovanni Manetti, Fontodi and David Gleave MW of Liberty Wines. €24 (includes new season's Olive Oil presentation & Olive Oil tasting; and Tuscan wine presentation & tasting, and nibbles). Contact details here.

Jim Crowley Butchers. Multi-award winners.

Jim Crowley Butchers, Midleton

Criostoir (2nd left) with his team at the festival

 The outstanding treat that I enjoyed at the recent Midleton Food Festival came from the Jim Crowley Butcher stall on the main street. I had met joint owner Criostoir O’Crualoai a few days previously and he had told me to watch out for their Steak Sandwich, also a hit at the previous year’s festival.

So I did keep an eye out and soon found the stall, along with Criostoir and his friendly crew. Just have to say that the steak sandwich was terrific, even at a comparative early hour of the day. So tender, we were able to gently tear it in two, the better to share. Tender, and tasty.

The shop on Mill Road

 While a well placed source in the food industry later told me that Crowley’s have a loyal following in the area, I had never heard of their shop (on the Mill Road) before meeting Criostoir. After the festival, I called up there and met another friendly bunch behind the counter. The shop was neat and sparkling with a great selection of meats on sale.

But I were after the shop’s pride and joy: their pork, chorizo and mozzarella burgers. Took them home and cooked them up and enjoyed them - just the right amount of chorizo to spice up the pork without overdoing it. Quite a chunky burger too and good value. And they are gorgeous. Don't take my word for it. It won second prize in May in the ACBI national barbeque competition!

And that is not the only award that Crowley’s, owned jointly by Criostoir and Jim Crowley, have won in recent years. You can see the list here and it includes five Bridgestone’s in a row, the most recent for 2012.

Prize-winning pork burger!

Criostoir: “Attention to detail is what makes us leaders in our field. Our product is thoroughly traceable. Crowley’s is a family business spanning two generations and has a very good reputation locally. The fact that many restaurants in the area use us as their supplier is testimony to the quality assurance that we bring to the marketplace.”

The Midleton Food Festival may come around just once a year but you can visit that sparkling welcoming shop on the town’s Mill Road all year round. Worth a detour!

Margaret River Pioneer at Ballymaloe

Margaret River Pioneer at Ballymaloe

The Margaret River visited East Cork yesterday.

After cricket and a kite surfing demo on the lawn, the action in Ballymaloe moved in to the Grain Store where Australian wine legend (and founder of New Zealand’s Cloudy bay) David Hohnen produced a team of six scintillating wines, three in white and three in red.

David, of McHenry Hohnen, is a brilliant speaker for an occasion like this, delivering solid information with wit and with sharp brevity.

He did repeat himself a bit though. Well, just one phrase. “Take a step back.” He was talking passionately here about letting the wine “work itself out” and was a bit worried that modern technology and courses were giving students both the knowledge and the means to interfere too much in the process.

He did some interfering himself though when he started off in 1966/67, when varieties were not mentioned on the bottles. In the morning, they made claret; at lunch-time, they added dye and so made Burgundy in the afternoon!

David is a firm believer in blends, believing that they can add up to more than the sum of their parts and that belief was illustrated by four of the six wines.

“I won’t buy a bottle sealed by a piece of bark,” he declared, not for the first time, one suspects. He is a firm advocate of the screw cap, going as far as to say that in forty years of making wine, the screw cap was the most significant technical innovation, both for the maker and the consumer. “Both can have great confidence in the screw cap.”

And from one timber to another. Oak has its uses, he said, but as a container. “We don’t seek to add aromas, texture or flavour via the barrel.” They import older used barrels and the oak, at that stage, has little influence on the wine.

He highly praised modern machinery in the vineyard, especially for harvesting. “It doesn’t get pissed on Fridays and gets the work done in the window of opportunity.”


The Whites

Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2011

3 Amigos, 2008

Calgardup Brook Chardonnay, 2010

All three were excellent and all three have been marked in the mid 90s by James Halliday, but it was the 3 Amigos that caught my attention. I liked this, so rich and creamy, full bodied. David said it was one of their “new direction wines, a lovely delicious style, beautiful, a pure natural wine.”

The Reds

Shiraz, 2010

3 Amigos, 2007

Tiger Country, Tempranillo, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006

Once again a superb set. The Shiraz was “very much Shiraz, lovely, clean and sharp, made from Autumn ripened grapes.” Important if you are looking for good Shiraz to watch out for areas where the grapes ripen in Autumn, was a tip from David.

The 3 Amigos, with a very rich mouthfeel and a long finish, was a brilliant blend of Shiraz, Grenache and Mataro (Mourvedre).

For me, the real class in the glass came with the Tiger Country blend. Tempranillo is the main grape here and it shows. It has power and elegance, is supple and silky with a persistent finish. “Tread carefully,” they say, “this Tiger’s got some savoury bite!” Well worth the risk for 24 euro.

David and yours truly

The wines, priced from €19.00 to €26.00, are available via Tindal Wine Merchants. Rounded off with a delicious Harvest Supper, it was another terrific night in Ballymaloe and well done to David, to our host Colm McCan and his colleagues and to William Tindal. 

The Ballymaloe Sherry event has been postponed until the New Year but do watch out for the An Italian Evening - wines of Tuscany & New Season’s Olive Oil – on November 8th.

Food and Drink Spotting

Marc and Darra
of Golden Bean.
Ballymaloe pic.

Food and Drink Spotting

Coffee Delights
Must say I’m enjoying some great coffee these days.

Many of you will know from recent media coverage that Robert Roberts won a 3 Gold Star Award for their widely available Java Coffee Beans but the coffees that I have at the moment from the long established Dublin firm are from Central and South America.

The Cuban Altura, an earthy smooth flavoured cupful, is now almost used up. Most of Cuba’s coffee is grown for the local market and for some limited export markets. Glad that this came our way.

The September selection from Roberts is the Bolivian Nakhaki, smooth and regarded as “very sweet”. Didn’t really notice any great sweetness, the term is relative anyhow, but found it well balanced and creamy. Up until recently, the coca bean was the main crop in Bolivia but it is now recognised that they have the rich soil and ideal conditions for growing top class coffee. This is one of them!

And the top class standard continued with a recent purchase from the Golden Bean Roastery which is based at Ballymaloe House. I bought my pack at the Mahon Point Farmers Market.

The Yirga Cheffe comes from the highlands of Ethiopia. This is a lovely coffee, bright and crisp, fragrant, with a slightly chocolaty or nutty quality and a bit stronger than you might expect for its light to medium body. Maybe use just a little less coffee when brewing up your cup!

Glenisk partners with the Marie Keating Foundation and supports local communities
As part of its 25th anniversary celebrations, Glenisk has partnered with the Marie Keating Foundation, donating €25,000 to help the charity raise awareness of breast cancer, promote screening and prevention measures, and help those families who have been adversely affected by the illness. Glenisk has created a series of Limited Edition Pink Yogurt packs to highlight the partnership across the company’s Fat Free Organic yogurts, which are available in Natural (500g), Strawberry (4x125g) and Tropical Fruits (4x125g).

In addition, Glenisk has set up a small fund on their Facebook page, inviting visitors to apply for ten community support grants of €250 each. The funds are for events or fundraisers which help to make a difference in local communities around Ireland. Community organisers and charities can apply on Facebook. Further information on all Glenisk products, partnerships and organics is available at www.glenisk.com, on Facebook and on Twitter.

Drinks

L’Atitude 51
“In association with On The Pig's Back, we are delighted to announce a Cheese & Wine Masterclass taking place on Wednesday 3rd October @7pm upstairs in our Wine Workshop. A Tasting of 6 Cheeses & 6 Wines carefully selected for each cheese to teach you about cheese and wine pairing. You can experiment with the different combinations & find the best match for yourself."

Admission €15. Spaces are limited so booking is essential. Send them a message on FB, or call 021 2390219 or email info@latitude51.ie to book your spot.
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Good news for Magnol lovers
For a couple of years (vintages of 2008 and 2009), Mother Nature put a halt to the development of the Château Magnol production. Two hail storms in a row (unheard of by Bernard, their winemaker for 40 years) had drastically shortened the yields, forcing them to put their best customers on allocations for the past 3 years. Time for celebration now though as the 2010 vintage  produced 15,000 cases “of an extraordinary quality”. More info from Barton and Guestier here

Don’t forget  the 'Margaret River comes to East Cork' event at Ballymaloe, this Thursday 27th September. Well known winemaker, David Hohnen (formerly of Cloudy Bay, which he established, and Cape Mentelle) oversees a Margaret River wine presentation, followed by a 'Fire-cooking Harvest Supper' by Wildside's Ted Berner - more details here at this link.

Shorts

Dermie's Spanish Baked Eggs with Tomato & Gubbeen Chorizo ... 

Gary O’Hanlon, recent winner of the Celtic Cook-Off in Skibbereen, goes all French for RTE. Here he shows his class with Coq au Vin:

Congrats to St Tola who won two Awards this week at the Irish Cheese Awards! Their lovely Ash log won Silver in the New Cheese Category while their classic St Tola Log won Gold in its class!

Delicious White Wines of Tondonia

Delicious White Wines of Tondonia

R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia, Viña Gravonia Crianza 2002, Rioja DO, 12.5%, €11.00 (at the vineyard bodega in Haro).

When I first noticed this Gravonia, 100 per cent Viura, on the shelf in Haro, I thought “this has to be a dessert wine”. I said as much but was quickly corrected: “All these whites are dry.”

So we had a taste and yes it is dry. The colour though is like rich honey and there are gorgeous floral blossoms on the nose. On the palate, there is a soft explosion of beautiful exotic flavours but, while rich, the aged wine is well crafted and well balanced, all leading to a very pleasing, lingering dry finish.
This is surely something different and very highly recommended.

Door to the tasting room!

Vineyard notes
Colour: Pale gold slightly evolved. Nose: Fresh and aromatic. Complex and developed. Bouquet with aromas of third generation. Taste: Fruity, complex, developed and fine.Issued Quantity: 29.000 bottles.

R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Tondonia, Viña Tondonia Reserva 1996 Rioja DO, 12.5% abv, €20.00 (at the vineyard bodega in Haro).

The nose is complex and the colour is even richer than the Gravonia, red/gold, like a good whiskey. I was told the extra richness in the colour comes from the ten per cent Malvasía used; the rest is Viura. Even though I had been told it was dry, I was still expecting something sweet. But, yes, it is really dry. It is also rich and elegant, shaping up like a good smooth sherry before finishing long and dry. Gorgeous. Very highly recommended.

It has spent six years in barrel and just 20,000 bottles were produced. They say it is perfect with all kinds of fish, with seafood and well seasoned white meat.

Vineyard notes: 1996 was officially a good year. There was a perfect balance in all parameters: colour flavour and taste. The white wines keep evolving in a fantastic way, showing elegance and finesse as per the best vintages.
For even more details, click here

I had been hoping to get some of their famous Viña Tondonia Rosé Gran Reserva, another aged wine, but there was none available and, because it is not made every year, none will be available for another year or two.

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Amuse Bouche

In the 1840s, a Florida physician named John Gorrie, trying to cool the rooms where patients were suffering from yellow fever, figured out how to make ice using mechanical refrigeration, paving the way for household refrigerators that appeared in American homes en masse in the 1920s and 1930s
http://www.time.com/time/nation/article/0,8599,1862562,00.html#ixzz0YKancgNq

Opening night at The Hub

Opening night at The Hub

Grainne Connolly, Caroline Buckley and Caroline Ellard from Crosshaven

Cork’s newest craft and specialty import beer house, The Hub, opened officially a week back.
Manager Lauren O’Shea was proud to show off this newly relaunched Anglesea Street house, stocked to the brim with craft, local and international beers.

I certainly enjoyed my visit to beer heaven. I’m on something of a wheat beer kick at the moment and sampled the Erdinger Weissbier and then Schneider Weise, both top class. There are 15 different specially beers on tap. Not easy to make a choice. However The Hub offers a tasting tray of three and I took this route and enjoyed Hoegaarden, Blue Moon (the one with the orange slice!) and Krombacher. Choices galore too on the bottle side with over fifty available.

Lauren O'Shea, Manager, with Mick and Margot O'Shea

Opening night guests were treated to eye popping magic from mentalist and mind reader Liam Sheehan, as he managed to stick playing cards stuck to the ceiling, find money on the inside of a kiwi fruit and magically make beer bottles disappear through tables.

In the back of the bar there is a secluded beer garden, and here a farmers market type set up was in place. Gidi made delicious Isreali kebabs from a mixture of fresh minced beef and lamb, mixed with spices and stuffed in an organic pitta with youghurt and salad.

Anita Radley, C&R Drinks, and Kieran Curtin, Carrigaline

Craft brewers and their representatives were present on the night.These included Ciara Kissane of Molson Coors, Anita Radley from world beer importers, Cremin and Radley, and Jim Kelly of C&C group.

The party continued into the night with guests from all over enjoying the atmosphere at Cork’s newest craft and import speciality beer house in the heart of the southside.

Contact: info@thehubcork.com

9 Anglesea Street, Cork, IE.
(021) 497 5774

Tom Crean Dining Experience at Annie’s

Tom Crean Dining Experience at Annie’s

Saturday night, at 18.35, we sat down to enjoy the Tom Crean Fresh Lager multi-course dinner in Annie’s Gastro-Pub. Why 18.35? Annascaul man Crean took part in 3 of the 4 Antarctic Expeditions and during the Terra Nova Expedition he undertook a superhuman 18hr 35 mile solo trek to save the life of his two companions.

The meal was also quite a voyage of discovery but a very pleasant one indeed as the kitchen team at Annie’s   came up with a string of class dishes, all incorporating the excellent lager made by the Dingle Brewing Company. The crew out front also did a marvellous job with only a couple of minutes between efficiently and courteously delivering a course to first and last client in the packed venue. It was the second night of the event and Friday went very well also.

Crean’s can be described as a fresh, clean, refreshing golden lager with a slight sweet taste. The soft flavours, slightly sweet aftertaste and rich golden colour combine to give you a thoroughly enjoyable drinking experience. I’d be very happy to see it in my local. The brewers also boast that it goes well with food and that was well and truly confirmed in Annie’s.

Started off with a pint and then came the first dish: Pan fried fillet of Mackerel on Crean's Brown Bread. We were up and running with this brilliant tasty match. Then came the mussels and langoustines with smoked bacon and leeks in a Crean’s Broth. Creamy and delicious.

And the standard remained very high as the Risotto was served, Wild Mushroom and Roast Chestnut with a Cream Thyme Reduction. We were being spoilt now for sure.

For me, one of the best dishes of the evening followed: Crean’s Confit Roast Pork Belly, Parsnip Puree, Kale and Crean’s Jus.  This was a brilliant combination of textures and flavours.

And the inventive chefs weren’t finished yet. Up came another star plateful: Crean’s Braised Beef Cheek, Celeriac and Potato Rosti, Roast Beetroot and Chive Emulsion. So tender, so tasty.

Then we had the sweet finish, their take on Ile Flotante with Chilled Blueberry Anglaise and Crean’s Hazelnut Caramel. Sweet and cool. A class finish to a class meal. And still time for some music and another pint of that fresh lager!

The chefs at Annie's enjoy some well deserved lager.
From left - Mark Ahern, Chris Starr and Head Chef Micheál "Tiffin" Griffin

New Cafe at Toons Bridge Dairy

New Cafe at Toons Bridge Dairy

The Real Olive Company and Toons Bridge Dairy this summer opened a little shop beside their warehouse and buffalo dairy in the old creamery,  Toons Bridge, near Macroom, West Cork.

"We sell our buffalo milk produce (mozzarella, ricotta, butter, raw milk, aged cheese, cream cheese and yoghourt) and our Mediterranean foods (olives, oils, Iberico meats etc.) We also provide an outlet for other local artisan producers (De Roiste puddings, Coolea cheese, jams etc.)."

"Attached to the old creamery there is a pretty garden, where we grow lots of the herbs and edible flowers used on the olive stalls."

 On Friday 28th Sept. We will open a cafe in the creamery garden serving simple food made from the abundant ingredients on site as well as good coffee, organic wine and sherry and scrumptious homemade desserts.

 

Using Our Own Buffalo Milk And Cream

Ricotta cake

Toons Bridge cheese board

Mozzarella salad

Ice cream

Using Real Olive Co. Stuff

Warm crispy Pane carasau with various toppings

Tapas boards

Salads

Toasted sandwiches

Please note: Both  shop and cafe will only open Fri, Sat and Sun because the stalls and vans are gone all over the country to markets, the cheese maker has finished his week and all is peaceful at the creamery.

Open Fri. Sat. Sun. 11am-6pm

India at the Farmgate

India at the Farmgate

Jaipur Restaurant Dublin came to Cork’s Farmgate for Culture Night and their team of chefs got a surprise. “We’re doing okay but no one told us about these queues,” one said. And they did more than alright as the punters flocked in last night. And so too did the Farmgate team, keeping the flow going and organising seating for everyone.

Jaipur showcased the pan-Indian way of serving a complete meal at the local market eateries – The Thaali. Food is a very communal experience in India and Jaipur applied their flair and expertise to recreate the flavours of India in Cork’s historic food market, The English Market.

And, from all around me, I heard the diners praising the essence of ‘India on a Plate’!

The Plate for a tenner:

Samosa & Chole…Punjab

Gram pearl’s Raita with Cumin & Rock Salt Simla

Old Delhi Style Railway Chicken Delhi

Yellow lentils with young garlic, tomatoes and raw mangoes Jaipur

White Cabbage, crushed peas Foogath.....Chennai

Aged Basmati rice with Tellicherry Pepper & thyme Kerala

Kachumber Calcutta

While, for me,  the Farmgate event was the main one, there was a lot more going on in the Market with lines of people building up at every stall that was serving food. Not to mention drink. Bubbles Bothers reported a mad mad night. Maybe we should do it more often!

La Rioja: Faustino 1 and V

Faustino 1 and V

Faustino V, Rioja Reserva 2005, 13.5%, €13.32 Venta Mugica (Ibardin).

This is very smooth, dry, with a decent bit of spice, medium bodied, lingering finish. The bottle, as is usual, is frosted but comes without a net. Proposed pairings for this dark aromatic red include red meats, poultry with spicy sauces and mild cheeses. Fairly widely available here from, among others, Superquin and O’Brien's. Highly recommended.

Faustino 1, Rioja Gran Reserva 1999, 13.5%, €17.00 Venta Mugica (Ibardin).

This dark red, in the net, is a blend of Tempranillo (85%), Graciano (10) and Mazuelo (5). Nose is of red fruit with balsamic notes. It is very smooth and rounded, well balanced; no big rush on the palate but rather elegant all the way to the finish. Produced only in the very good years and this is a very recent release. There was also one in 1998 and it is unusual to get two in a row. Some top pundits reckon 1996 is the best. Very highly recommended

Nine Million Bottles!
Bodegas Faustino are one of La Rioja’s most famous producers and one of the biggest also, according to that excellent book, The Fine Wines of Rioja, who say they have a permanent stock of 9,000,000 bottles! They make quite a few wines, including Cava. The Gran Reserva, aged for a long time and released a decade or more after the harvest, is your classical Gran Rioja.