The Irish National Stud & Japanese Gardens. Among the country’s top attractions.

The Irish National Stud & Japanese Gardens.

Among the country’s top attractions.

Cards, stars and horses, all played by Colonel Walker,
founder of the National Stud.

There is a double bronze sculpture on a patio just inside the entrance to the Irish National Stud, at the point where your guided tour starts. It features a life-sized be-hatted gentleman of a previous century gazing at a combination of horses, star signs and playing cards.

The double sculpture is in honour of Colonel William Hall Walker who bought this Tully estate in 1900 and went into horses rather than the family brewery in the UK. He had a fascination for Asia (hence the Japanese gardens here) and astrology. He used the stars to determine the future course of his horses - if the star signs were bad at birth, the foal was sold, no matter what the breeding.

The Colonel. Reading the stars

 

Despite much criticism of that particular “method”, he became one of the most successful breeders of his time, winning classic after classic. More recently, Sea The Stars was another classic winner and there is a sculpture in the horse’s memory, unveiled by the Queen in 2011. It is called Sea of Stars and contains astrological symbolism.

There is a more down-to-earth souvenir of the great Arkle: his skeleton! There is much more to see here and when your guided tour is over, you are welcome to explore at your leisure. Indeed, if a guided tour doesn't suit your schedule you are welcome to walk around independently. But you will miss out as the guides are full of information, courtesy and good humour.

The current star of the stud is the much-loved stallion Invincible Spirit. Now in his old age, his services are still much sought after and indeed his fee is negotiated privately whereas the other stallions have their fees posted on a board at the stud. Mares come from all over and, on arrival, are medically tested and are also “showered” and fitted with special shoes (in case they kick out when mating).

One for the future. Just a few weeks old

Big money is mentioned a lot around here yet most of these mega-deals are included in a modest-looking single-storey house called the Stud Office. It and its immediate garden are very well kept indeed as is the whole area. 

A highlight is a millennial garden by award-winning landscape architect Professor Martin Hallinan, built on a former bog and called St. Fiachra’s Garden. St. Fiachra, the patron saint of gardeners, also made a name for himself in the Loire and, if you find yourself in the village of Saint Fiacre you’ll see it is surrounded by vines. They make some fantastic Muscadet here and do watch out for Günther Chéreau Confluentia Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie (the Irish importers are Liberty Wines). 

Invincible Spirit. In Limestone. Plenty of limestone in Kildare as there is in Kentucky another great horse breeding region.

Irish National Stud’s tribute garden is a stunning attraction seeking to capture that which inspired those involved in Ireland’s monastic movement in the 6th and 7th centuries. It does so principally by paying handsome tribute to the Irish landscape in its rawest state.

While the stallions bring in the cash, it is the lively geldings that bring in many of the visitors. Hardy Eustace is the big gentle star and the much smaller Hurricane Fly is also in the same field but you’ll need something sweet if you hope to get to pat him. Faugheen and Beef or Salmon were also hanging around the day of our recent visit.

Faugheen enjoying his role as a visitor attraction

In adjoining paddocks, you see the stars of the future as these fields are home to mothers and foals, some just a couple of weeks old. They are well taken care of with plenty of space. If for some reason, the original mother cannot look after her own foal, a surrogate is available and so you see one or two oddly coloured mares here. 

It is not only the stallions that are well looked after in Tully. The in-foal mares, many of them paying guests in their last month, are checked every twenty minutes! HSE please take note.

A young foal with its foster mum.

Some other facts from our guide:

Covering dates start on, believe it or not, Valentine’s Day;

the gestation period is 11 months;

Every single foal is officially born on January 1st;

There is no A1 in the racing industry. That would spoil all the fun, and make it all boring, according to H…., our excellent guide; 

Resident stallion Tommy The Tease checks that each mare is ready but then has to step aside for a big-name stallion. Tommy has the consolation of two covers a year (with the surrogate mothers), a poor enough return.

Most visitors will end up in the Japanese Gardens at some stage during their visit. It is not the biggest in the world, far from it but, now over a hundred years old, it is still very much worth visiting. Some 120,000 visitors soak up the peace of the gardens every year. There is a choice of two paths, one called the Easy Path, the other the more familiar Path of Life (our choice!)

Refreshments are available all day in the on-site café. Meals are based on local produce
even if the building style echoes a Japan equivalent.

The gardens were devised by Colonel Walker and were laid out by Japanese master horticulturist Tassa Eida and his son Minoru between 1906 and 1910. Walker named one of his classic winning horses after Minoru.

After all that walking around, or maybe in between, you’ll need some sustenance and you’ll enjoy some good stuff in the Japanese Gardens Café (it also serves the National Stud - both attractions are covered by the one ticket and adjoin each other). The café building has Japanese features and has lots of seating, both indoors and out.

Ballymaloe-trained Natalie Collins and her manager take pride in offering simple, wholesome food with an emphasis on freshness and flavour. Local ingredients are used wherever possible. Current menu offers include Silver Hill Roast Duck Salad, Homemade Lasagne, 12-hour roast beef of Ciabatta, Chill Beef Nachos and much more, including dishes for children. We enjoyed a cuppa and a couple of pastries including their ever-popular Portuguese Tart.

The Tea House in the Japanese Gardens. No tea here, just for decoration

Service in the cafe was friendly, efficient and proactive. And indeed that friendliness was evident right from the reception desk here in the Stud and everywhere we went after that, including Lawlor’s Hotel, the Country Market and during our stroll along the banks of the canal where everyone smiled and said hello. Another lovely reason to return to Kildare and check out more of its attractions.

For more on the stud and gardens, please check here https://irishnationalstud.ie/ 

Also on. this visit:

You're on course for a great time when you stay at Lawlor's of Naas 

Lawlor's Naas is a great base for Kildare's many attractions 

The gardens in the stud grounds, especially St Fiacra's, are splendid.
Spotted this swan and cygnet in a pond there.

You're on course for a great time when you stay at Lawlor's of Naas

You're on course for a great time when you stay at Lawlor's of Naas 

Terrific Sea Bass dish in Vi's

Hard to know where to start when talking about the amazingly popular Lawlor’s Hotel in the heart of Naas. Hard, because a recent refurbishment has more than doubled its size to over three acres! They have 138 individually designed bedrooms, ranging from traditional style to brand-new superior bedrooms. All rooms are en-suite and are fitted with power showers, some with modern jacuzzi baths - providing ultimate luxury. 

Yet, when we knew we were heading there, our focus was immediately on Vi’s, the newly launched restaurant. Quite a spectacular place highlighted by the custom-made iconic round dining bar, an eye-catching centrepiece of the luxurious new lobby.

The bar in the round in Vi's

The frontage of the “old” hotel faces the town's main thoroughfare, while the new reception is on the other side of the complex, reached via Gleann na Greine (don't worry, very easy to find). Here you will find a spacious underground car park with a lift up to reception.

It took us a while to finish the walk as we took in the lobby and the restaurant and the magnificent decor. And then we got a warm welcome from the staff at the desk and took the lift to the 4th floor and our spacious comfortable room with all we needed for our stay. From the window, we could see down to the gardens. 

Terrine starter

It was one of the warmest days of recent weeks and the temptation factor was high. Soon, we were relaxing in the garden with a cool drink at hand. Vi's Gardens, with its ancient gates, is now open daily for dining and drinks and you may have lunch in the lobby from 12.00 pm until 4.00 pm. The Bistro is open every day for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

 

After the liquid refreshment had reached the vital spot, we decided to take a stroll along the main streets of this well-kept town. Busy too and no sign of any vacant sites that blight the centre of some of our cities and towns. Didn’t go too far though as the heat was still up and we had already walked quite a bit during our superb visit to the nearby Irish National Stud.

Lawlor's

By the way, on the way up and down to our room, we regularly passed the Courtroom. Yes, the Courtroom. It is laid out in a traditional semi-circular fashion. But the seating here is very comfortable and the facilities (AV technology and video conferencing) are bang up-to-date and excellent for corporate and training events. This restored 19th Century wood-panelled amphitheatre meeting room holds up to 50 attendees,

Soon it was time for dinner - we had a reservation - and we headed for Vi’s. Again, the welcome was warm and friendly and that vibe continued right through a very efficient service all through the meal. Vi’s is currently open Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 6 pm to 9 pm, and Sunday from 1 pm to 8 pm. Expect to pay a bit more here than in the Bistro. 

It also has some different dishes available, as you'd expect, including Steak on a Stone - 6oz medallion of prime Irish beef fillet on the stone with portobello mushroom, caramelised red onion, overnight tomatoes, pepper sauce, chunky chip. And then there’s the exclusive Mrs Lawlor’s Sherry Trifle (left) - a classic boozy sherry trifle made using Mrs Lawlor's own recipe.

You can also break the bank on the Drinks List which is very extensive. A lot of reading there and it might be worth your while to try and get your hands on it in advance! We settled on an excellent New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and a dram of Green Spot.

One of the unusual doors, each with a story

The menu takes a fair bit of attention also. Eight starters include Sharing Platter of deep-fried calamari, chorizo, and Padron peppers. My pick was the Jane Russell Blackpudding and Ham Hock Terrine which came with black apple chutney, lamb leaf, and French dressing.

That got me off to a flier and CL, who had been tempted by the Ardsallagh Goats Cheese Tartlet,  was also delighted with her Pulled Roast Chicken Croquette with Pickled mushroom, lamb's leaf lettuce, and honey buttermilk dressing. Sat back between courses and listened to the live musician, had another look or two at the eye-catching decor above and around the bar, and enjoyed voyeuristically the craic coming from a nearby 40th birthday celebration.

Perfect steak

Time then for the main event, surf for her, turf for me! CL’s pick was the Pan-fried Sea Bass with warm potato salad, cherry tomatoes, peppers, braised fennel, and roasted red pepper reduction. Absolutely perfect, the fish hugely enhanced by the marvellous sauce. 

I ordered the 10 oz Irish Beef Striploin Steak with mushrooms, caramelised red onion, overnight tomato, pepper sauce, and chunky chips, My server suggested a port wine sauce and I went along with that. Ten out of ten here for sure, the meat was perfectly cooked and lifted by the overnight tomato and that port wine sauce.

One of the inviting gardens, seen from 4th floor window

They serve breakfast in the Bistro from 6.30 am. We were never in danger of getting there that early and it was after nine when we sat down in what is still quite a striking room. The service is again friendly and the whole operation is well organised and runs smoothly. Just take your time and check all your options.

There is a central station for juices and cereals while tea, coffee, and toast will be delivered to your table. Aside from one or two other options, everything else comes from the Hot Buffett which is regularly checked and replenished. 

Breakfast is served in this area of the Bistro
(part of the "old" hotel)

Our selections, mostly eggs, pudding, beans and mushrooms were top notch and indeed their sausages were superb, sorry I didn't take another one! But there you go. We were quite happy as we left the room to take a stroll on the tidy banks of the nearby Grand Canal and also a look at the Country Market which takes place every Friday (the Farmers Market is on Saturday).

With the sunshine coming to a temporary halt, it was time to check out (after another pleasant chat) and head down south with a promise to ourselves that we'd be back to Lawlors.

Here the "old" front of Lawlor's continues to face out on Poplar Square

Also on this trip:

More on the advantages of this hotel with an emphasis on its location, a great base for touring the Kildare area here.

And a post also on our delightful visit to the Irish National Stud here.

 

Familia Torres getting the very best from Albarino in Rías Baixas

Familia Torres getting the very best from Albarino in Rías Baixas

Pazo das Bruxas Albarino Rías Baixas (DO) 2022, 13% ABV

€19.95 Bradleys, North Main Street, Cork. 

The fresh aromas, even as the cork is released, hint that this is indeed an Albarino from the Rías Baixas,  a small winemaking region in Galicia, northwest Spain (the Green Spain). The colour is a clear light gold and there are aromas with both floral and fruit characters, all intense. And that intensity of engagement spreads onto the crisp and minerally palate, rich and flavourful, with apple and pear, and balanced by an acidity typical of the region and the grape.

Very Highly Recommended.

I first tasted this Pazo das Bruxas back in 2015. I had a distinguished guide, none other than Miguel Torres, one of the family’s fifth generation. He said it has good density and finish and added that Albarino can age well, 7 or 8 years, and can get more complex. This is excellent as it is,  with great freshness and flavour. That was the 2013 vintage and it seems the 2022 is keeping up the high standard.

That 2013 was perhaps the first Torres Albarino from this vineyard. It was only in 2012 that the fifth generation of Familia Torres launched a winegrowing project in Rías Baixas and made its first Albariño with the name of Pazo das Bruxas. This wine is made from grapes grown primarily in the subzone of the Valle de Salnés.

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Attention to the world around them and to detail in their winemaking is typical of the Torres family. No magic, just a lot of hard work. But you will notice witches on the front label as Pazo Das Bruxas pay homage to the folklore and landscape of Galicia (much of it with strong Celtic connections). 

It tells the tale of the Galician witches said to have gathered in the woods, which surrounded some pazos or manor houses, to conjure up spirits with their dances and spells. “Nourished by their energy, the sap or lifeblood then coursed through the vines, in the same way, the Albariño grapes give life to this wine today.”

Magic or no, this outstanding multi-award-winning wine serves as an excellent aperitif and is good with raw, cooked or grilled seafood. Pairs perfectly with mild, white fish. Its lively palate strikes a perfect balance with soft goat cheeses. A good wine for Irish cuisine then and no wonder that Albarino has become so popular here.

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Torres, always aware of climate change, says the 2022 harvest in Torre Penela was one of the earliest in recent memory, “brought forward by 12 days compared to the previous year. The winter was extremely dry and warm, followed by an equally dry spring with episodes of nighttime frost, one of which affected part of the vineyard and brought down yields. There was no rainfall in the summer, and the intense heat increased the pace of fruit maturation. After the three summer months, rainfall during the first week of September brought up yields somewhat and helped regulate both the alcohol and acidity of the wines. The grapes were in excellent condition.”

Hats off to the chefs, as Clonakilty’s culinary delights are celebrated at The Irish Yogurts Clonakilty Street Carnival 2023

Hats off to the chefs, as Clonakilty’s culinary delights are celebrated at The Irish Yogurts Clonakilty Street Carnival 2023

Spectacular. All pics by Anna Groniecka Photography.

West Cork’s renowned annual street carnival returned to Clonakilty this weekend on Saturday 17 June, for a spectacular day of food, live music and activities for all the family.

This year’s event was officially opened by award-winning chef Eunice Power. The RTE One Today Show chef celebrated the wonderful talents of all the local chefs, food producers and businesses as she opened the main food tent and sampled the very best cuisine and flavours that Clonakilty has to offer.

Dance and dine

Speaking at the event Eunice said; “I’m absolutely delighted to open The Irish Yogurts Clonakilty Street Carnival, it’s been a fantastic day here in Clonakilty and it’s a great honour to be a part of this brilliant food festival. Events like this are so important for us all to come together to enjoy and shine a light on the wonderful talents within West Cork’s renowned food community, chefs and restaurateurs. I understand the hard work, commitment and ingenuity that it takes to get a festival together. Huge congratulations to the whole community in Clonakilty for such an amazing day and to Diarmuid and Mary O’Sullivan of Irish Yogurts Clonakilty for supporting this day.”

Volunteers at the heart of it

Dishes created by Clonakilty’s finest, award-winning restaurants, bars and hotels tantalised tastebuds with fresh, seasonal and local ingredients. Clonakilty’s long-standing famous food producers Irish Yogurts Clonakilty and Clonakilty Black Pudding featured in the menu alongside Wild Atlantic seafood linguine, poached lobster tornado, curries, Castletownbere crab tacos, burritos, loaded potato nachos, barbequed steak and Clonakilty Black Pudding burgers, and many more. Food tickets included the choice of two main meal dishes with prosecco fruit punch, wine and desserts also included, as the day saw over 1,400 diners from 3pm-6pm tucking into tasty street food dishes on long dining tables, adorned with locally picked wildflowers.

The Clonakilty street carnival is a highly anticipated social event for the town which sees thousands of visitors flock to the award-winning, seaside town to enjoy this special day of food and free activities and entertainment. The entire community of Clonakilty comes together to contribute, sponsor and volunteer their time to organise, set up and promote.

The little ones are well entertained. And fed!

Tim Coffey, an organiser of the event, said; “Without our wonderful volunteers, who effortlessly set up and clear the streets all day from dawn to dusk, we wouldn’t be able to facilitate this memorable day and showcase all our top-class food and entertainment talent. We’d like to thank everyone who has given their time in making this magical day such a huge success and to Eunice Power for officially opening the event and supporting us on the day.”

Headline musical acts throughout the event had audiences dancing in the streets and
drumming groups added extra beat to the festivities. Kids enjoyed their very own carnival experience as they were entertained and dined in the Family Fun Zone, which saw plenty of free activities including face painting, stilt walkers, drumming workshops and giant games and inflatables.

A place for everyone. And a plate also!

The newly opened ‘Flourish & Be’ salon on Pearse Street allowed for an autism-friendly space for families and adults, as part of Clonakilty’s continued commitment to being an autism-friendly town. A bespoke, inclusive and occupational therapy led hair salon for children, has sensory toys and activity stations to help create positive experiences.

Adrift Restaurant at Dunmore House noticed once more by the prestigious Michelin Guide

press release

Adrift Restaurant at Dunmore House noticed once more by the prestigious Michelin Guide

Added to the Michelin Guide in 2022, Adrift at Dunmore House is a jewel in the west Cork crown with foodies coming to this family-owned and managed seaside property from all corners of the country. No surprise then that Michelin has added Adrift to their latest Best of Guide celebrating The Best Seafood Restaurants in the Republic of Ireland.

Speaking about this latest release from the Michelin Guide, owner of Dunmore House, Carol Barrett said, “This is brilliant news for everyone here at Dunmore, especially our exceptional kitchen team. We celebrate this inclusion with our amazing suppliers, Glenmar Seafoods, too who bring the freshest fish to us daily! Our diners love to enjoy simple, tasty seafood while overlooking the lovely view across Clonakilty Bay. As a family we believe strongly in using what is local and available so seafood is a must. It’s fantastic to be one of just six restaurants in Ireland to make the list.”

Writing about Adrift, the Michelin editors noted, “Locally sourced fish and shellfish power the menu at this family-run restaurant, which features the likes of John Dory, scallops and West Cork mackerel. It sits inside the Dunmore House Hotel and offers stunning views across Clonakilty Bay, ensuring that a window table is always much sought after. There’s a bright and airy feel to the dining room, which fits nicely with the coastal vistas and tasty, unfussy cooking. Dishes often make use of the hotel’s organic kitchen garden; keep an eye out for the famous local black pudding too.”

Adrift is a beautiful space seating 40 guests with sweeping views across Clonakilty Bay. The menus change regularly and feature some of the best produce in the area with a focus on seafood from nearby Union Hall cooked simply– guests can expect poached lobster, John Dory, cod bouillabaisse and black sole on the bone, not to mention house black pudding, handmade ricotta and nettle ravioli. Included in the Michelin Guide UK & Ireland 2023, Adrift is open five days a week from 6.30pm – 8.30pm. 

Menus can be found here, for booking please call 023 883 3352. 

For more visit dunmorehousehotel.ie

Gentil. An engaging Alsace tradition since the 1920s

Gentil. An engaging Alsace tradition since the 1920s

Meyer-Fonné Gentil Alsace (AC) 2021, 12.5% ABV 

RRP €20.95. Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

Gentil is an Alsace tradition, made from all the white grape varieties of the estate. It is not hit-and-miss. You are not allowed to throw just any old grape in.  It is done carefully, to a very high and controlled official standard. And it is also usually very well priced. Félix Meyer has built a solid reputation in Alsace and other Gentils worth looking out for (and available in Ireland) are Hugel and Trimbach.

The Felix-Mayer winery is very happy with this 2021 assemblage of Muscat, Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Gewurztraminer. And so am I. This particular  Gentil is on my list every year, such is its high quality and consistency.

It is very aromatic, with honey hints, and draws you in. And so it continues in the mouth. Subtle notes of apricot and apple and again that slightly honeyed fruit sweetness engage your senses. A little spicy too, with a lingering finish.

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The winery promotes it as a dry and well-structured wine for enjoyment in all kinds of contexts, ranging from an aperitif to wine with a meal and friends. Amazingly versatile: “the most wonderful aperitif and can be paired with lots of Umami focused dishes, like Sushi or it lends itself to sweet and aromatic spices, from North African to Indian/Pakistani and South East Asian.”

A gem at the price and Very Highly Recommended.

The practice of producing Gentil goes back to the 1920s. This is regarded as his “entry-level wine”, leaving one very keen indeed to try the full range, right up to a highly rated Cremant, from this organic producer. Le Caveau carries quite a few, starting with this and including the Cremant D’Alsace and the top wine his Alsace Grand Cru Riesling.

See our post on his marvellous Riesling 2019 here.