Thursday, May 25, 2023

A Riesling of “great purity, ethereal and dry, a gastronomic grand vin” from Meyer-Fonné

 A Riesling of “great purity, ethereal and dry, a gastronomic grand vin” from Meyer-Fonné

Meyer-Fonné Riesling Katzenthal Alsace (AC) 2019, 13% ABV 

€29.95 Le Caveau, 64 Wine, Greenman Wines, Bradleys Cork

From the granitic slopes surrounding the village of Katzenthal comes this very distinguished and racy wine. The immense potential of these granitic soils of Katzenthal is realised time and again by Meyer-Fonné.

The colour of this 2019 Riesling is a beautiful gold with tints of green. Minerality and lime feature in the flavours on the complex yet easily accessible palate while the aromatics throw citrus notes, a floral flicker and the more or less usual hint of diesel. It may be “usual” but the diesel here is not a disturbing sensation as some examples can be and soon fades into the background. Rich and ample for sure with peach joining the lime as the wine, with a balancing acidity, heads towards a long and rewarding finish.

Very Highly Recommended.


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Meyer-Fonné is fast becoming one of our favourite winemakers; in the past, we have also Very Highly Recommended his Pinot Blanc Vieilles Vignes (twice), his Meyer-Fonné Gentil thrice (going for four with another one in the queue), and his Crémant d’Alsace (AOC) Brut Extra.

The maestro is rather proud of this one: “Originating from the granitic slopes of Katzenthal, this very distinguished, concentrated long finish wine carries the emblem of its terroir magnificently. Its mineral and floral character, great purity, ethereal and dry, make it a gastronomic grand vin. Ideal with all kinds of fish.”

The man himself, Félix Meyer, has come in for high praise.

"Félix Meyer is one of the more ambitious and successful young vignerons of Alsace.” Wine Advocate.

“ ... Félix Meyer still has humility, still has a sense of wonder, and is still capable of self-criticism. He is a seeker and a perfectionist. He is a terroirist, and when he speaks of a granitic soil, the wine in your glass tastes of it.”
Kermit Lynch, US importer.

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