RESTAURANTS AND FOOD

Wednesday, June 15, 2022

Long May Dede Reign In Baltimore

Long May Dede Reign In Baltimore

Ottoman Spiced Firik Risotto

When I was growing up (in the middle of the last century), I was aware of three grain crops: barley, oats and wheat. I knew them well, from the time they broke ground to the time they were threshed (the workers enjoyed a bottle or two of the black stuff!).

Later on, much later on, I became aware of other grains (rye, spelt) and, last weekend in Baltimore, Dede introduced us to another one or at least to another variation: Firik, an ancient grain from his Turkey.

Aged Striploin (Wagyu Dexter cross)

And there was much more from Ahmet Dede’s native country including mulberries, his spice mix, Turkish cold pressed olive oil. Indeed, he has some 50 different spices, oils, molasses, nuts, grains and more from Turkey.

Sourdough and glimpses of Stonewell Cider.

The restaurant in the local Customs House elaborates: “Our spiced based Turkish fusion cuisine is created by using raw and fresh ingredients from West Cork… An emphasis on beautiful local produce married with Chef Ahmet Dede’s Turkish heritage…”.

Turkish Delight

And then, to the premium inputs from Turkey and Ireland, he and his team add amazing technical skills, precision and attention to detail.

We start our culinary trek, no cutlery required for this first step, with a couple of amazing snacks. One is based on a biscuit made from mushrooms, a toothsome squeeze of mature Coolea, then a sliver of onion, all crowned with a spicy crisp. The other was the dolma, a top to bottom segment of poached onion stuffed with rice, topped with smoked yogurt and caviar, and decorated with chive flowers.

Red Mulberry Vacherin

What a beginning! And it just got better. As we made our delightful way through the many courses, we said “that was the best” and repeated the phrase again when the next one came along.

But this next one was truly amazing, an illustration that this Irish-Turkish fusion was giving us the most amazing food. It was the Spiced Lobster Bisque, Brown Crab Manti and Caviar. The fish of course came from the waters around the nearby islands and the cape.

Langoustine

Around this point, he introduced us to his beautiful sourdough bread along with the Turkish olive oil and the Irish butter from Gloun Dairy.

Now time for another gem: Langoustine, radish, pea, smoked Crème Fraiche, and spiced consommé. And it just got better with the Cod, Chicken, Butter, Grapefruit, Lobster, and Fermented Chili Oil. The cod is not a rare fish on Irish menus but rarely do you get it so pristine and beautiful as this, singing on the plate. Of course it had a classy chorus to accompany it.

Rice pudding tartlet

Course six was soon in front of us, the only meat of the day, a Wagyu and Dexter cross Aged Striploin, Ottoman Spiced Firik, Mint, Carrot, Kumquat and Isot. The meat, from Macroom, was excellent and yet it was that Firik that stole my taste buds, quite an amazing “risotto” with the grain looking like pearl barley but so much more flavoursome. In fairness, the grain and the meat together were quite the main course.

It was to be cheese and sweet all the way after that and so we switched from Stonewell Cider to Killahora Ice Wine, just as the Red Mulberry Vacherin (a soft cow’s cheese), pomegranate, wood sorrel, young meadowsweet, arrived on the table. It looked beautiful but, we were “ordered” to smash it with the spoon. And, having taken the photo of course, we did the vandal bit and then tucked in and enjoyed every large and little fragment.

Hazelnut Bon Bon

Next a trio of small sweets were introduced: Hazelnut Bon Bon, Blood Orange & Cardamom along with the best Turkish Delight I’ve ever tasted.

And yet one more treat before we made a leisurely farewell. As with all the previous courses, our friendly and efficient servers (and there were quite a few) gave us the details and, on this occasion, the chef showed amazing precision as he made the most flawless quinnelles to top the Sütlaç ‘Rice Pudding’ Tartlet.

Killahora Ice Wine. Delicious

And that topped our memorable 10 course lunch at the Michelin Star restaurant. Thanks to Dede and Maria and to their lovely staff. Long may they reign in Baltimore.

Baltimore Video (short)

Buzz On Beasley Street: a new foodie paradise in the heart of Cork as Maldron Hotel South Mall invests in city’s Outdoor Dining Scheme

Buzz On Beasley Street

A new foodie paradise in the heart of Cork

Maldron Hotel South Mall invests in city’s Outdoor Dining Scheme

Donna Mannion, Corporate Sales & Marketing Manager and Robert McCarthy, General Manager, Maldron Hotel South Mall Cork City are joined by The Lord Mayor of Cork, Colm Kelleher to celebrate the four-star hotels role in helping to transform Beasley Street into a stylish al fresco dining area. Photography by Gerard Mc Carthy

Delighted to get the chance, last night, to try out Cork's latest outdoor dining area in a very comfortable set-up in Beasley Street, just outside the entrance to the Maldron Hotel, South Mall. Beasley Street and South Mall are just two of the streets bounding this large and unobtrusive hotel in the city centre and many, like me, are surprised to learn that it has added some 163 modern spacious fully air-conditioned bedrooms to the city's accommodation stock.

Aperol Spritz

Food of course is a major part of any hotel's offering and last night’s hospitality was very generous and highly appreciated. There was a warm welcome in their signature Red Bean Roastery Coffee Shop, a splendid high-ceilinged venue. Enjoyed meeting old friends from the group, Paul O'Connell and Donna Mannion.

Soon we had excellent cocktails in hand and those that we enjoyed from the list on offer were the Elderflower Spritz (Elderflower liqueur, mint, Prosecco & Soda Water) and the Aperol Spritz (Aperol, Prosecco & Soda Water).

Elderflower Spritz

Plenty of time to sip and chat as the music played and then we made our way out into the open air and our comfortable seats in Beasley Street which seems to have everything in place for outdoor dining and you can see why Paul and Donna are expecting quite a buzz in the days and nights ahead.

Roastery

And the food, from the hotel's Grain & Grill Restaurant and Bar menu, will feature as it did last evening. The kitchen were certainly put through their paces and came up trumps. Easy enough to find good produce in Ireland these days and the team here illustrated with quite a few samples that they are well up to the task of enhancing the dishes with the judicious use of spices and sauces.

Red and white wines were also available. Of course, there is a full bar so regular diners will have a great choice including some excellent non alcoholic drinks as well.

Our dining began with a trio of mini starters of which my favourite was probably the prawn (not that I left any of the three behind!). No rush at all as the relaxed evening progressed to the generous samples, three again, of the main courses: beef, chicken (in a slider) and fish, all every enjoyable indeed.

And the cheese course, led by the marvellous Cashel Blue, maintained the same impressive standard and that included the chutney!

Say cheese!

Another excellent addition to the range of outdoor dining areas in the city. Be sure and put it on your list.

Press release

Maldron Hotel South Mall invests in city’s Outdoor Dining Scheme

Cork’s most centrally located four-star hotel has played a key role in helping to transform Beasley Street into a stylish al fresco dining area and underline the city’s position as a top foodie destination.

Maldron Hotel South Mall Cork City is now officially offering the perfect outdoor dining experience daily, with its tasty Grain & Grill Restaurant and Bar menu served from early morning to dinner. The menu includes a wide range of stand-out Maldron dishes with a local twist, from delicious light bites to signature burgers and Italian stone baked pizzas.

With capacity for outdoor dining up to 180 people, this is an ideal spot just off South Mall and Oliver Plunkett Street where diners can also enjoy the full bar menu featuring delicious cocktails, wine and beer, as well as barista prepared coffee from the hotel’s very own Red Bean Roastery coffee shop.

The hotel has invested €80,000 to bring this al fresco offering to life, alongside Cork City Council who contributed €120,000 through Failte Ireland’s Outdoor Dining Scheme.

The investment has helped transform Beasley Street into a haven for outdoor diners and social butterflies, come rain or shine, with the introduction of parasols, awnings, giant umbrellas, windbreaks, heaters, festoon lighting and planters. The street has also been resurfaced with original cobblestones.

Adding to the vibrancy of the area, Ardú street artist, Peter Martin has also been commissioned to complete murals on the street and these are due for completion at the end of August.

Maldron Hotel South Mall General Manager, Robert McCarthy said the new streetscape has added a new dimension to the area, with Beasley Street the perfect place to enjoy a meal outdoors on the banks of the River Lee.

He said: “The street is a really welcoming place for al fresco diners. The past few summers have really opened people’s eyes to the joys and benefits of outdoor dining. It’s fair to say the Irish weather, even in the summer, can be a little unpredictable which sometimes puts people off eating outdoors but with heaters, umbrellas and awnings we are now fully equipped to deal with anything Mother Nature throws our way.

“At Maldron Hotel South Mall, we take great pride in sourcing our food and drink from our brilliant local producers and I think being able to enjoy our menu outdoors adds an extra local dimension to the experience.

“Cork is a special place and the sights and sounds of this city are something to be savoured. Our hotel is a wonderful place to be but sometimes it’s nice to enjoy our great outdoors and now our guests can do both.

“We are proud to be able to make such a large investment in helping cement Cork’s position as a favourite foodie destination and when more people visit the city from near and far to see what the buzz is all about, we will be happy to welcome them.”

The investment from Dalata Hotel Group Plc, operators of Maldron Hotels, is an important part of a wider €1.3million investment in Cork streets by Failte Ireland and delivered by the city’s council.

Lord Mayor of Cork, Cllr Colm Kelleher said the new installations at Beasley Street will add to Cork’s reputation as a bucket list destination for foodies.

He said: “Thanks to the Maldron Hotel South Mall for really embracing this initiative. The investment in Beasley Street will not only enhance the immediate area but will also encourage more people to visit the city.

“Places like the English Market already attract food lovers from all over the world to Cork, plus we have some amazing artisans producing world class food and drink bolstered by fantastic food experiences.

“It is fantastic to see hotels like Maldron Hotel South Mall providing not only a wonderful stay but also a memorable dining experience.

The 163-bedroom Maldron Hotel South Mall is situated in the heart of Cork’s shopping and entertainment district with some of the finest eateries and attractions on its doorstep. It is the ideal base for an action packed trip to the city or a getaway with friends.

To find out more about Maldron Hotel South Mall Cork City visit www.maldronhotelsouthmall.com

Tuesday, June 14, 2022

Taste of the Week. Ayle Farm Gooseberry Jam

Taste of the Week

Ayle Farm Gooseberry Jam

I've been buying Ayle Farm products over the past few years from places as diverse as the Farm Shop at Aillwee Cave to our local Neighbourfood. And one that stands out time and again is their Gooseberry Jam.

It has an engaging light sweet taste and the colour is close to red which suggests the fruit used was on the ripe side. Still, it boasts a balancing zingy tartness, a freshness, that also engages those taste buds to make it our Taste of the Week.

Oh, you may well ask why is gooseberry jam red? I'm told by the experts that with ripe fruit the pectin and sugar react to turn a light red. If you don't want that colour, then try using gooseberries before they are fully ripe.

I'm sure there are many people making excellent gooseberry jam. After all, it is one of the easiest to make because the fruit is naturally high in pectin. The only problem nowadays for many of us is getting our hands on fruit. Your best bet is probably the local farmers market.

Ayle Farm, who oddly enough don't list this jam on their online store, are based in Oola, Tipperary and produce multi-award winning artisan Granola, Chutneys, Relishes, Cooking Sauces and Preserves in small batches. "In 2010/11 Peter completed a commercial growing course at the Nano Nagle Centre in Cork. The course was delivered by Jason Horner a well-known organic grower. We are members of The Tipperary Food Producers Network. You can follow our news on Facebook, Instagram & Twitter."

Monday, June 13, 2022

Two red wines to look out for, one from Burgundy, one from the Dolomites

Two red wines to look out for, one from Burgundy, one from the Dolomites.

Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks Park) in the Dolomites, just a couple of hours from Foradori vineyard.

******

Domaine Lacour Côtes Du Couchois Bourgogne (AOP) 2020, 13%,

€22.65 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

Côtes du Couchois is a relatively unknown area of Burgundy and is the source of authentic and very well priced wines. This is one to look out for.

It is also one of the darker coloured Pinot Noirs. The grape is loved for its red fruit and you’ll note plenty of it (cherry, raspberries) in the aromas. More of the same on the smooth palate, enlivened by a wash of sweet spice (from the oak ageing). Tannins are soft and there is a long finish. Another superb wine from Lacour and Very Highly Recommended.

This father (Fabrice) and son (Antonin) team run a 13-ha estate in the appellations Côtes du Couchois, Hautes Côtes de Beaune and Bourgogne. Antonin, in his mid-twenties (captain of the local rugby team), is now working full time at the estate. The Côtes du Couchois is a tiny appellation located South of Maranges, at altitude between 300 to 420m.

They say: “Ageing in terracotta allows the freshness of the fruit to be preserved …Unique in the Couchois, this "Cuvée Amphore" allows you to pleasantly discover the typicality of our territory.”

Pinot Noir, and this a typical example, is versatile at the table. Try it with duck, chicken, pork and mushrooms.

As you know, the grape is one of the main ones in Champagne and no surprise that France is the world’s largest producer of Pinot Noir. The USA is second and Germany third with Moldova a surprising fourth.

We have come across Domaine Lacour previously on the blog and, two years back, were absolutely delighted with their Passe-tout-grains, a sort of vineyard blend (in this case mostly Pinot Noir and Gamay) somewhat similar to the Gentil of Alsace. A short review of the Lacour version here.

*The Passe-tout-grains is also available from Le Caveau.

Foradori Teroldego Vigneti Delle Dolomiti (IGT) 2019, 12.5%

€30.95 64 Wine Dublin, Bradley’s of Cork, Greenman Dublin, Le Caveau Kilkenny

This wine from the mountainous Trentino wine region of northern Italy has a dark garnet colour. Pretty intense aromas of a dark fruit character. This juicy red wine softly bathes the palate with notes of cherries, raspberries and blackberries, and there’s a hint of sweetness. It is fresh and lively and balanced all through to the lengthy finish that also comes with pleasant light tannins.

In 2016, The Modern History of Italian Wine (my review here) honoured the producer Elisabetta Foradori as one of the leading producers in the renaissance from the 1960s onwards. She led the local change from pergolas to Guyot (lower yield, more quality), practiced the “diligent use of small oak barrels” (to tackle the international market), and then her embracing of biodynamic cultivation and her adoption of the amphora in “this land where Regina Elisabetta (Queen Elizabeth) reigns” further enhanced her wines.

In the Trentino area, a favourite at the table is a bowl of giant canederli (bread and flour dumplings, which are laden with smoked bacon chunks and served in a warm broth). Local breads and cheeses are also on the table, dispatched before you tackle the filling polenta and sausage based dish known as Smacafam. Apples will feature in the dessert course, perhaps their version of strudel. And this is the wine to pair with the local food!

Here in Ireland, you could match it with cured meats and dishes that include bacon or guanciale (O’Mahony Butchers have this in the English Market). Teroldego would do well with spaghetti carbonara, for example, because it would both cut through the richness and compliment the bacon and pepper notes.

I was in that area just once myself, on a day trip from Austria, and remember having the best ever Spaghetti Carbonara in a high altitude restaurant in or near the Naturpark Drei Zinnen (Three Peaks Park) in the Dolomites and then enjoying a stroll around a nearby lake (in pic above) under some awesome peaks.

This dark aromatic wine is indeed a gem, light in alcohol but full of flavour, a distinguished part of the Trentino gastronomy. The wine itself is pure, precise and elegant and Very Highly Recommended.

TWENTY JOBS FOR CARRIGALINE AND €320,000 INVESTMENT AS BLACK ROOSTER PERI PERI OPENS FIRST IRISH STORE

press release

TWENTY JOBS FOR CARRIGALINE AND €320,000 INVESTMENT

AS BLACK ROOSTER PERI PERI OPENS FIRST IRISH STORE
Black Rooster Peri Peri Franchise Owner Reggie Sweetnam.

First Irish store opens in Carrigaline, Cork as franchise set to expand in Ireland.

Chicken fans rejoice! Following its success across Scotland and England, Black Rooster Peri Peri has just opened its first Irish store in Carrigaline, Co. Cork with a view to opening more stores in Munster over the coming twelve months.

The new store, which has brought 20 jobs to Carrigaline and represents an investment of €320,000 is located on Main Street, Carrigaline (across from Hassett’s Bakery), and specialises in delicious Peri Peri chicken - made from its own secret recipe - that is prepared and grilled to perfection in store whilst the customer waits. 

Customers can choose from an extensive menu which includes wings, strips, burgers, pittas, quesadillas, burritos in a variety of flavours ranging from extra mild to extra hot. Black Rooster Peri Peri also offer kids meals and lighter options like salads and rice bowls, so allowing customers to get a quick lunch or a family dinner.

The franchise saw an explosion in popularity since opening its doors in Glasgow in 2017 and has expanded rapidly, with sixteen stores across Scotland and England to date, with the company expected to expand to further locations across Ireland in due course.

Owner of the Black Rooster Peri Peri Carrigaline store Reggie Sweetnam said they were excited to bring the hugely successful franchise to both Cork and Ireland: “We are thrilled to bring Black Rooster Peri Peri to Cork and be the first to open in Ireland. We have been a fan of Black Rooster Peri Peri for years and know that they have almost a cult status amongst Peri Peri lovers in Scotland, so we knew we had to bring it Leeside.”

“Carrigaline was an obvious location when the opportunity arose – it has a great community of residents and businesses, and we can’t wait to meet customers – locals and passers-by alike. Our plans don’t just stop at Carrigaline though, as the aim is to open stores in Ballincollig, Midleton, Waterford and Limerick.”

Kevin Bell, Owner and Director of Black Rooster Peri Peri, added “Our brand is much loved over in Scotland. Last year we opened our first store in England which has been a huge success, so now to be opening in Ireland is a massive milestone for our business. We’re looking forward to seeing more stores opening throughout the country and can’t wait to see what the locals think!”

Black Rooster Peri Peri Carrigaline is open from 12 noon to 10pm seven days a week, at Main Street Carrigaline, and customers can dine in, or take away the signature dishes to enjoy at home. For more information and to view the menu, customers can head to www.blackroosterperiperi.com , follow @blackrooster_ireland on Instagram, or pop into the store on Main Street Carrigaline for eat-in or take-out.

Sunday, June 12, 2022

Enjoyable Lunch at Barnabrow Tea Rooms. Afternoon Tea also available

Lovely Lunch at Barnabrow Tea Rooms

Afternoon Tea also available

It wasn’t the weather for The Fairy Hide and Seek Walk in Barnabrow House but it was certainly a day to stay close to the fire and to enjoy a light lunch in the Tea Rooms.

Covid 19 hit the East Cork venue as hard as could be but owner Geraldine Kidd pivoted as well as any of her hospitality colleagues when she opened these lovely rooms (which also contain a Poppins Shop) on a sunny day last Autumn.

And she had further plans: “We have many exciting plans to use this unique venue – from poetry readings, hen-parties and outdoor picnics including those for teddy bears!”. The development of The Fairy Hide and Seek Walk is now almost finished at The Tea Rooms. Come and see for yourself.

The facility is open from Wednesday to Sunday 12-4pm with Afternoon Tea served every Saturday and Sunday by appointment. Enjoy the elegance of a bygone age – either indoors by the open fire of the Georgian dining room or outdoors on the terrace savouring the views of East Cork’s gently rolling hills.

Afterwards stroll the grounds and explore the many nooks and crannies of this impressive house that is otherwise normally preserved for private weddings. Greet their donkeys and Pygmy goats - they’ll certainly greet you!

My two companions each picked The Smoked Salmon Sandwich, the salmon on a bed of crushed Avocado and Egg Salad, topped with pickled Radish and Cucumber Ribbons (9.50) and both were very contented indeed.

My choice was the €10.50 Nduja Mozzarella Toasted Sandwich (spicy Nduja sausage, Mozzarella, Tomato salsa, Roasted red pepper strips, Balsamic reduction and Basil Pesto all on Toasted Focaccia). A bit different for sure and one of the better sandwiches eaten this year.

Also available on the occasion (04.06.2022) were Soup of the Day, Chicken Liver Paté, Chicken Caesar salad and Beef and Potato Rosti.

Now the focus was on the sweet side, a blackboard list of tempting cakes: Baked Vanilla Cheesecake, Vanilla Tart, Lemon Tart, Plum and Almond Tart, Lemon Drizzle, Carrot Cake, Chocolate Marquise, and Chocolate Chip Cookie.

Again I was outnumbered with the other two going for the Lemon Tart (5.50) while my pick was the Plum and Almond (5.50). But there were no regrets as each was excellent. The tea was spot on and a treat in those gorgeous china cups.

Soon we had to face the rain again. But no big deal and we waved to the sheltering donkeys as we drove away.

Stay up to date with the Tea Rooms at https://www.barnabrowhouse.ie/The-Tea-Rooms/

Date of visit: 05.06.2022

Friday, June 10, 2022

Food producers gather for the Mayo Food and Drink Showcase

Food producers gather for the Mayo

Food and Drink Showcase

Keynote Speaker Artie Clifford, founder and chair of Blás na hÉireann

The grand finale of the Mayo Food and Drink Programme takes the form of a Showcase and Meet the Buyer event which takes place on Thursday 23 June in Breaffy House Hotel, Castlebar. It marks the end of a highly successful series of training and networking events. The Showcase is a valuable opportunity for Mayo food and drink producers to meet and do business with key buyers from the hospitality, retail foodservice and food distribution sectors. Attendance is free of charge but pre-booking on www.mayofood.ie is essential.

The keynote speaker is Artie Clifford, founder and chair of Blás na hÉireann, the Irish Food Awards. He will be supported by a Chefs panel, a Distributors and Wholesalers panel, a Retail and Food Service panel and a Food Tourism panel. Food and drink businesses will have an opportunity to exhibit their products and give tastings as well as have personal meetings with buyers. It is also an important networking event for those working within the industry in Mayo. Participants include Aldi and SuperValu, Bord Bia, La Rousse Foods and Rua Deli. Chefs include Philippe Farineau from Ashford Castle and Seamus Commons from Knockranny House Hotel.

“Anyone involved in the food and drink industry in Mayo or food visitor experiences should make it their business to attend this Showcase and Meet the Buyer event”, explained Oonagh Monahan, Programme Manager, “As well as talks and workshops, it’s a rare chance for business owners to meet directly in a one-to-one situation with key buyers and decision makers who can make a positive impact on their business”.

This final event is the culmination of a 15 month programme providing relevant and focussed training to food and drink businesses within the network. The most recent event held last month was completely sold out indicating the enthusiasm for the network. It is expected that this one will be equally popular and advance booking is essential. It is a trade only event open only to businesses.

The Mayo Food and Drink Programme is a LEADER funded response to the challenges and opportunities identified in the Mayo Food & Drink Strategy 2025. It puts into action the specific priorities identified by producers and is totally food and drink focused. A training programme runs until July and consists of free training, mentoring, and networking events which are designed for and available exclusively to Mayo food and drink businesses.

Booking for these free courses is through the website www.mayofood.ie or Eventbrite and links on social media (@mayofoodanddrink).

The Mayo Food and Drink Networking and Training Programme is supported by South West Mayo Development Company and Local Enterprise Office Mayo.

press release.