Cheers #24: Blacks Distillery. Waterford's Organic Spirit.
White Hag Smash. Teeling Masterclass. Austria's Sweet Wines.
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Wednesday, October 14, 2020
Cheers #24: Blacks Distillery. Teeling Masterclass. Waterford's Organic Spirit. White Hag Smash. Austria's Sweet Wines.
Tuesday, October 13, 2020
At Home With Da Mirco On A Saturday night
At Home With Da Mirco On A Saturday night
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| MACCHERONI ALLA PUTTANESCA |
PARMIGIANA DI MELANZANE (GF)
Alternating layers of Fried Aubergine, Tomato Sauce, Pecorino Cheese served with Bruschettina
POLENTA TARAGNA AL FUNGHI PORCINI VALTELLINESI (GF)
Dark flour Polenta filled with Casera Cheese and Wild Porcini Mushrooms from Valtellina
MACCHERONI ALLA PUTTANESCA (GF on request)
Homemade Maccheroni Pasta served in da Mirco Tomato Sauce, Black Olives and Capers
FOCACCIA E OLIVE
Homemade Focaccia bread with olives.
Ichnusa non Filtrata 330ml
Unfiltered Lager 5% Vol. (Sardegna)
Menabrea Bionda 330ml
Premium Lager 4.8% Vol. (Piemonte)
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| A Hearty Taste of Valtellina |
With the restaurants closed again last weekend it was time to start looking at the various At Home menus being offered. After our successful “raid” into West Cork for Curly Stu’s pizzas the previous evening, we decided to stay on the Italian track and order from Da Mirco on Saturday. We knew we were on a good thing, having already enjoyed a take-home meal from the Bridge Street restaurant earlier in the pandemic.
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| Fried Aubergine, and more! |
And there were some encouraging signs too when we studied the menu. Mirco, like many restaurants, is using the very efficient TablePath software for both reservations and At Home. We spotted a starter from Valtellina, Mirco’s home town in the north east of Italy. In addition, the chef is from Naples and is well up on his Maccheroni alla Puttanesca. The list on top is just our selection from a much bigger menu (Wednesday to Friday 5:30 to 8:30 and Saturday 5 to 9).
We ordered Saturday morning and called to collect at the allotted time of 5.30pm. But you can order up to half an hour before collection and you may also call in and order. Mirco was in great form when we arrived despite his chairs and tables stacked up around the empty room. Soon we had our bags packed and were heading home.
We started with the Parmigiana Di Melanzane, alternating layers of Fried Aubergine, Tomato Sauce, Pecorino Cheese served with Bruschettina. From first bite until last, there was hardly a word said around the table, just a hum of satisfaction, confirmed by words of delighted agreement that we were well on the Italian way, the real thing.
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| Tiramisu |
Next up was the dark dish, the Polenta with cheese (made from semi-skimmed cows milk) and topped with wild porcini mushrooms from Valtellina with some Irish as well. Quite a starter, the cheese melting into the polenta, overall rich and delicious, full of flavour and textures and aromas. Very popular in the area in autumn/winter, according to Mirco.
After a decent pause, to open the beers, we started on the mains, a dish that could hardly be simpler, just the Maccheroni, Mirco’s own sauce, garlic, a few black olives and capers. Simple and simply delicious.
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| Beer of Sardinia |
The story of the sauce though is not so simple. While Mirco, in his introductory video to the dish, did use the Italian version but not the English. “Go check on Google,” he smiled. “Can’t say bad things here!”. Google will tell you it means the sauce of the prostitute! And a lot more besides. It is a bit spicy and if you wish, Mirco will add chilli to your order.
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| From Italy's oldest brewery |
Time for dessert then and that just had to be Tiramisu! I also ordered a couple of beers, both lagers. The Ichnusa is an unfiltered beer and regarded as the favourite in Sardinia where it is brewed. It was also our favourite of the two, had a bit more going for it compared to the Menabrea Bionda, a clear lager by Italy’s oldest brewery which is based in Piemonte.
Sunday saw us back in traditional mode, enjoying the Sunday roast after a lovely long walk in Doneraile Park, lots of people, loads of space and many a Hello and Good Morning!
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| The Glass Walkway at Great Southern |
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Monday, October 12, 2020
Nduja in Newcestown. On the West Cork Pizza Trail with The Curly Stu
Nduja in Newcestown.
On the West Cork Pizza Trail with The Curly Stu
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| Scamorza |
The Curly Stu is bringing a touch of Naples to a trio of mid and west Cork villages. We called to Newcestown last Friday evening to see what all the fuss is all about. Stuart Bowes is the man behind The Curly Stu and, we know, from his many years as Head Chef at Barnabrow House, that the Scot is a good one.
He told me: "I left Barnabrow at the end of August so I’m doing the pizzas Wednesdays in Castletownkenneigh (small country pub, Cookies, near my home beside Coppeen). Friday nights I'm in Newcestown in O’Mahony's Bar car park and Sunday evenings in Cloughduv in the Spreading Chestnut pub car park, all from 5-8.'' He keeps Saturdays free for all kinds of private parties and gigs.
He has a regular menu posted up on the side of his converted horse-box and every session he has at least one special and they can indeed be very special. The regulars include Margherita and Pepperoni, both very popular with the younger generation. Also in Newcestown, his Nduja (spicy salami on a Margherita base with fresh chilli, red onion and chilli oil) and his Smoked Scamorza cheese (again on a Margherita base with roast piquillo peppers and West Cork Garlic scape pesto).
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| O'Mahony's and the horsebox |
We were early and got ourselves one of the picnic tables by the pub. A week earlier, we'd have been able to take our pizzas inside. Still the sun was out as we sat down with the Nduja. We had enjoyed one of those in Barnabrow months ago and this lived up to the memory, absolutely top class with the occasional delicious hits from the Nduja itself.
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| Nduja |
On then to the Scamorza. Another gem with the Italian cheese a star with the peppers and that garlic scape pesto also playing leading roles. Of course in all his pizzas, that base is out of this world, great for the taste buds and, as you can read below and in his social media, for the digestion.
At the end of the second pizza, the rain started to come down and as the evening was also rather cold, we decided that discretion was the better part of valour and made a run for it. But not before Stuart boxed a third, the special, for us. We were wondering how it would survive the 40 minute spin home.
But not a bother. Just a few minutes in the oven and the Ardsallagh goats cheese on a Margherita base with artichokes and caramelised onion ketchup came up tasty trumps. Another beauty from the Scotsman. That super base, the artichokes adding juice and texture and their unique modest flavour to the pie and the ketchup also pitching in.
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| Busy boys |
So three pizzas on a Friday night and all three of the highest standard, a standard that you won't find in too many places on these islands. Skill, and attention to detail pays off, quality in quality out. Some very lucky villagers in West Cork.
Stuart confessed: "I’m a man obsessed with the Neapolitan way. Since the lockdown I’ve been doing them Wednesdays, Fridays, Sundays and they were very busy! Since everywhere opened up I’ve managed to keep a lot of regulars and there’s new customers coming so it’s still going very well!"
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| Goats cheese, artichoke |
"The dough is made in the traditional Neapolitan way, so mixed the day before and is generally always kept at room temperature, normally for 24-30 hours. They have a really nice airy puffy crust, a little soft in the middle and are cooked for 60-90 seconds at 420-450 degrees c."
"I’m playing around with the actual fermentation, I was using a sourdough culture before but I’ve been using a (pre ferment) called poolish for the last few weeks and that has given great results. I’m going to try biga next, which is similar to the poolish method, but with half the amount of hydration in the pre ferment."
"I have an Italian supplier that is really passionate about his produce! The flour I’m using is Molino Spadoni PZ4. This flour mill is very well known for their quality in pasta flour, I would have used this in London. The mill is in Ravenna, northern Italy, and only uses Italian grains that are quality controlled and checked."
"The best thing is my supplier organises for me to get the flour straight from the mill now so it is super fresh. You can actually smell and see the difference when mixing the dough!!"
"I have a Sunmix mixer on order. This mixer is known for being one of the best you can buy. It can make and close the dough in 15 minutes so you are not overheating the dough with the friction. These are made to order in Italy. Fifteen long weeks I’ve been waiting so far but it is going to be well worth the wait!!"
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| The 400 year old village has some food history! |
"The Fior Di Latte mozzarella is made in the Campania region - "The mother land of mozzarella" my supplier calls it. There are no chemicals in this cheese and the difference compared with most of the other mozzarellas I’ve tried is very noticeable. The cheese melts nicely and goes stringy when cooked in the high heat and doesn’t colour and go crispy!"
"The tomatoes are certified organic from a company down south of Italy called Manfuso; they have good ethics and all tomatoes are canned on the same day as harvest with no added salt."
"I also get organic extra virgin olive oil, so straight from the first press of organic olives and with no heat."
"Nduja and smoked Scamorza are both becoming well known with the folks here in West Cork and both are really good quality products."
"And then I have Ardsallagh goats cheese, I use West Cork garlic scapes for pesto, I got a load of scapes from him at the end of the season. I have Gubbeen chorizo on the options for weddings. I used Toonsbridge Stracciatella last week for a special, I got Asparagus from Drummond House for a few weeks on special so I’m just trying to work my way around the suppliers around the general area.
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| Toonsbridge stracciatella special |
"The ovens I use are Gozney Roccbox. They are easily portable and a great product that are exceptionally good at keeping the high temperature inside the oven consistent at between 420-450c to get that Neapolitan crust. Especially when I’m busy!"
You'll see those little ovens mounted on the counter, that is if you can take your eyes off the busy chef as he assembles and cooks and talks all at the one time. As we were quite early, we were kind of wondering what all the action was about. But it turned out he gets quite a few advance orders for collections.
Do watch out for those specials. I'll give you just two examples here.
1 - Braised Ham hock with smoked Scamorza cheese and portobello mushrooms and then finished with a honey mustard mayonnaise.
2 - Toonsbridge stracciatella with roccbox roasted tenderstem broccoli, gremolata and toasted almonds. "Really nice veggie pizza that packs a punch and full of flavour."
And you can check out others on his Insta page thecurlystu
And another thing to watch out for is his offer. All the pizzas are keenly priced but best of all is the standing offer of three for €22.00, terrific value for a family meal on a Friday, a Sunday, or a Wednesday!
085 196 0706
Sunday, October 11, 2020
A Quart of Ale± #16. Moving on over to craft. Stout & Porter.
A Quart of Ale± #16
Moving on over to craft.
Stout/Porter
Starting off with a couple of excellent Irish porters and finishing with a pair of equally excellent stouts. In between, I take a look at the Founders Porter though not as impressed with this as I was with their Breakfast Stout .
By the way, the terms Porter and Stout are interchangeable according to the latest World Atlas of Beer. Craft Beer for the Geeks say stout is a stronger version of porter.
Trouble Brewing “Dark Arts Porter” 4.4%, 440ml can Bradley’s of Cork
Pours black as you’d expect and you can get quite a head (coffee coloured) if the pour is more rapid than usual. Chocolate, caramel and coffee among the aromas. And they also feature in the flavours. Indeed this lighter bodied black reminds me of those well made light dry red wines that have become very popular in recent years. A very decent porter indeed (though I still retain a preference for stouts).
Trouble Brewing are very happy with the early success of this one, and why not. Their Facebook: Dark Arts is the second beer we ever brewed here in Trouble and has stood the test of time to become one of Ireland's outstanding porters.
I’m regularly amazed as to how often brewers get things right from the get-go. Howling Gale by Eight Degrees and Black’s KPA are early examples and Trouble say they’ve never touched the Dark Arts recipe since the initial production.
Kinnegar Yannaroddy Porter 4.8%, 440ml can Ardkeen Store
Where did they get the name? Sounds Australian to me. But no, they found it in their own little corner of Donegal where they get all the names for their beers. A stone’s throw from the brewery is a field with the intriguing name Yannaroddy.
Ever wondered about those mad illustrations on the Kinnegar cans under the theme “Follow the hops”. “Kinnegarland” is illustrated by the inimitable Dermot Flynn www.dermotflynn.com
They say: Yannaroddy Porter is rich in traditional dark roasted malt flavours laced with an exotic streak of coconut.
Hadn’t known about the coconut when I tried it but certainly the coffee and caramel are there in the aromas and on the flavour-packed palate. Black, of course, is the colour and the coffee coloured head is slow enough to vanish. It is velvety smooth, good acidity too on the way to a lip-smacking finish.
Not surprisingly, Yannaroddy is one of their core beers. The others are Scraggy Bay India Pale Ale, Limeburner Pale Ale, Devil’s Backbone (Amber Ale), Rustbucket Rye Ale, and Crossroads American Style IPA. By the way, they don’t filter or pasteurise, and let their industrious little friends, the yeast, carbonate the beer naturally during fermentation.
Founders “Porter” 6.5%, 355ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork
Co-Founders Mike Stevens and Dave Engbers opened the doors to the 9800 square foot Founders brewery in downtown Grand Rapids in 1997. But the years that followed were tough before the Michigan brewery’s rise to be one of the top rated in the world began in the opening years of this century.
Black is the expected colour of this “robust” porter and the head is coffee coloured. Sweet nose of malty chocolate and caramel. Silky on the palate, richly flavoured, sweetish, yet dry in the finish. Dark, Rich and Sexy, the label proclaims. Dark, Silky and Sweet, methinks. Perhaps a little too sweet for me. ABV is 6.5 while the IBU is 45.
By the way, you might like to try their Dark n’ Stormy cocktail, based on this porter. “This cocktail may look complicated, but rest-assured, even the least kitchen-savvy among us could recreate this with ease. Impress your friends and family this holiday season with this beauty.” All the details here
Heaney “Irish Stout” 4.3%, 500ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork
This stout is from the Heaney Farmhouse Brewery in Co. Derry. It is black, with a coffee coloured head that loses volume pretty quickly.
Stick your finger in the head and taste the coffee and chocolate which are more or less what you’ll get from the aromas. No oatmeal here but the palate is rich and smooth, caramel and chocolate and that roasted malt finish, a dry one also. Competition in the stout arena is quite stiff and this one is well up to the average.
Heaney’s always come up with food pairings and here they suggest slow-cooked meat dishes or a rich chocolate dessert.
White Gypsy “Old Smoke” 5.4%, 500ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork
Old Smoke was the nickname of John Morrissey, a boxer from Templemore (Co. Tipperary) - the home of White Gypsy - who gained fame and infamy for his exploits both in and out of the ring in the US during the 19th century.
Is there much smoke here? Not really, but you certainly notice it in the malty aromas which mostly feature coffee and chocolate. Colour is a shade or two short of a solid black; nice head (cream/coffee in colour) but doesn’t hang around. Lovely beer though with mellow roasted flavours, with malt more to the fore. Not like your usual stout but I could easily go through a session with this very distinctive one!
They say: Traditionally, beers made in the midlands would have had a slight smokiness due to the malt being dried from peat fires, this stout brings out that combination of smoke & roast while remaining light on the palate. Beer is a fantastic ingredient to use in cooking (and baking). A family favourite is an Old Smoke Stout Stew.
Wikipedia: Smoked beer (German: Rauchbier) is a type of beer with a distinctive smoke flavour imparted by using malted barley dried over an open flame. The Rauchbiers of Bamberg in Germany, Schlenkerla in particular, are the best-known of the smoked beers.
Saturday, October 10, 2020
Amuse Bouche
“I’ve read that Bras begins his day foraging for edible flowers and wild herbs,” Verlac said.
“This is what I call high dining. Who needs Beluga caviar?”
Somewhere after the sixth course, a bright-white monkfish covered in what the menu called “black olive oil,” Michel Bras appeared in the dining room. Happy applause broke out among the diners….
“I heard that he’s going to let his son run the kitchen soon,” Paulik said, setting his fork down. “He almost looks like André Prodos, doesn’t he?”
from Death in the Vines by M.L. Longworth (2013). Recommended.
Friday, October 9, 2020
Tullahay Farm brings home the Bronze!
Tullahay Farm brings home the Bronze!
In a year like no other, Blas na hÉireann announced the winners for 2020 and newcomer Tullahay Farm, Grangemockler, Co. Tipperary, took home bronze only two months after launching its range of fruity whey drinks.
For Tullahay Farm owner, Rosemary O’Shea (above), the accolade was a fantastic boost to her burgeoning company. Rosemary produces an artisan range of fruity whey drinks and savoury soft cheeses. Her Mango and Passion Fruit whey drink impressed the Blas na hEireann judges with, not only its refreshing flavour, but also its probiotic benefits in improving gut bacteria.
Rosemary was delighted to receive the award. “We have only been producing our whey drinks and cheeses for a few months, so to get bronze at our first outing of Blas na hEireann was a fantastic boost of confidence for us.”
“For some, whey is a relatively new phenomena, with attention now being paid to it for its health benefits. However, as children we used to drink whey every day, it was just part and parcel of our daily routine.”
“Then when I married a dairy farmer and had three girls, my passion for healthy eating and natural home produce returned. As a typical busy family, we recognised the benefits of whey more and more to keep us healthy. So, when I started creating a range of whey drinks that were fruity and tasty and had a noticeable health benefit, Tullahay Farm was born.”
Rosemary is also a recent graduate of the SuperValu Food Academy, an initiative which was launched in 2013, to help develop Ireland’s artisan food industry, to deliver a consistent level of food marketing knowledge created for new and early-stage food business owners and to provide small food business with a solid foundation to progress to shelves of retailers.
Tullahay Farm products which include fruity whey drinks (Mango & Passion Fruit and Raspberry) and natural soft cheeses (Chilli & Honey and Tomato, Basil and Garlic) will be available in at SuperValu in Carrick-on-Suir from Monday, October 12th and further SuperValu stores across Tipperary next month. You can also find a selection of Tullahay Farm products at The Auld Mill Grangemockler, Solero Viva Health Shop in Carrick on Suir, D-bunked and the Gourmet Butcher in Clonmel.
Anthony Fitzgerald, Head of Enterprise at Local Enterprise Office Tipperary, said, “We are delighted to have been able to support Rosemary and Tullahay Farm through from the idea stage to the finished product and we wish her every success on her journey. We have a proud tradition of quality food and drink producers in Tipperary, along with a vibrant and diverse Food Network.”
“There is now a very defined path that those with ambitions to become food entrepreneurs can follow through the Digital School of Food, through to Food Starter and Food Academy so we encourage those with a food business idea to contact us in the Local Enterprise Office to explore how we may be able to help them realise their ambitions.”
For more information about Tullahay Farm and the range of whey drinks and soft cheese products visit www.tullahayfarm.ie or keep up to date on Facebook and Instagram.