Neven’s Cookery School. Step by Step with the Maestro

Neven’s Cookery School

Step by Step with the Maestro

One Happy Chef!

It might sound strange but Neven Maguire reminds me of Christy Ring. At least in his approach to his cookery school students. He takes it step by step, building confidence from the start and lots of discreet back-up along the way.

I remember “Ringy”, back in the day, teaching a few of us to take a sideline cut. He just didn't throw the sliotar down and order you to strike. No, he found a high sod and placed it there and, if you made a half decent connection, you hit a good sideline ball. “Hey, I can do it!” After that confidence boost, the rest came with practice.

Christy displayed the technique and dispensed good advice as did Neven in MacNean House last Saturday.

Presentation is important but getting the flavours right is even more so.

That was an early nugget from Ireland's favourite chef during our one day Christmas Cookery Course with him, in his own Cookery School in Blacklion (County Cavan). It used to be a hairdressers but there’s a different kind of style now on display here, right next door to Neven's restaurant MacNean House.

Prawn starter

The school has been open for twelve months. “It has been a great year,” said Neven. “A great year for me and a great year for my team. We are booked up every week from now until next June. But the Chef’s Table, a new venture of ours, is not too well known yet and that is not booked up.” The Chef’s Table (for 12 to 20 people) is situated here in the school and you’ll have Neven and his chefs cooking in front of you and serving you as well.

Neven always has great praise for his staff and many of them have been with him for years. His right hand people in the school are Olivia and Clare. “They keep it immaculate.”  Looking back at the year, Neven said it was a great one for him personally as he was voted Best Chef in Ireland and his new book Fast was voted best cookbook in Ireland.

As he took the varied group of students through the course, he was free with advice. He “ordered” everyone to buy a “plastic” wooden spoon, revealed that local Asian markets are “best for spices” and said that “broken walnuts are half the price of whole nuts”.  Looking for vanilla, then try Vanilla Bazaar. For Thai products look up Thai Gold in Wexford.

But Christmas Made Easy was mostly about the cooking. Everything from Mulled Wine to the Turkey was covered. The full title of the turkey lesson was: Buttermilk Brined Roast Butterfly of Turkey with Orange and Rosemary.

Cheese board

We got to make a Citrus Harissa Butter for the Turkey Crown. You can get the Harissa paste in most areas nowadays but if not available try sun-dried tomato paste instead. The Butter can also be used on grilled steak, pork chop, roast chicken and grilled fish (like hake).

We did a Pine Nut, Cranberry and Apricot Stuffing. By the way, dried cranberries are “very good in soda bread”. The other big item during the busy morning was the ham. Neven and his team were taking care of the ham itself but we got to do the Glaze and the Pineapple Salsa. Again, the glaze can also be used with Pork Chops while the Salsa goes well with grilled prawns.

Speaking of prawns, we got to make our own starter for lunch, a Prawn Cocktail with the traditional Marie Rose Sauce. To tell the truth most of it was done for us but we certainly picked up tips and hints galore. Besides, it was quite a nice starter.

But the Turkey and Ham were just fantastic, so full of flavour and the turkey so moist. Lunch was followed by a Wine and Cheese Tasting conducted by Blaithin McCabe who has been here since 2007. 

We started with La Contesse Spumante Prosecco and then a lightly oaked Potel Aviron Macon Villages 2011. The red was a Cotes du Rhone by Domaine Coste Chaude (2011) and then we enjoyed the Quinta do Noval 10 Year Old Tawny Port before sipping a MacNean Mulled Wine.

Perhaps the best match of the tasting for me was the Port and Cashel Blue cheese, made from cows milk. Also on the plate were Corleggy, a hard goats cheese from Cavan, Tipperary’s Cooleeney made from raw cows milk and Coolea (Cork) made from fresh cow milk.

Following an interesting tour of the kitchen, there were more lessons, including Chestnut, Wild Mushroom and Bacon Soup with Smoked Duck, Mulled Fruit Truffle, a Fruit Cocktail and Mulled Wine. Sadly though we had to hit the road earlier than most and missed the final session! Will have to go again in the future.

Taste of the Week. Elbow Lane Smoke House Sauce

Taste of the Week

Elbow Lane Smoke House Sauce

Got my hands on a jar of the Elbow Lane Brew & Smoke House sauce recently and it is quite a performer. In the new Oliver Street premises, a brewery cum smoke house, you can add it to your grilled meats.

The good news is that you can also buy a jar (they also do a dry rub). At home, I used it on a steak and it absolutely enhanced it. You may also add my Taste of the Week to duck, ribs, burgers, sausages and so on. Great to see Elbow Lane making it available for sale and great to see other Cork restaurants (such as Cornstore and Electric) making up similar sauces and rubs.

www.elbowlane.ie

Ingredients: Butter, garlic, lemon, juice, tomatoes, sugar, Worcestershire sauce, chilli powder, vinegar, seasoning.

Where Santa Bags His Reds.

Where Santa Bags His Reds.

At Karwig's

André

Domaine André Brunel Sommelongue 2011, 14% abv, €17.05 at Karwig Wines

I reckon old Santa could well be calling to Karwig Wines in Carrigaline any day, not delivering, but stocking up on his reds for his many customers. Could well be picking up a few whites as well.

This is one versatile red that might top his list for Christmas dinners. You could drink it with practically anything: roast chicken, pork belly, garlicky sausages, grilled lamb - and, of course, the Christmas turkey. And also with the cheese course.

André Brunel is already well known as the producer of a top class Chateauneuf du Pape on his Les Cailloux estate. This Sommelongue may well be labeled as an ordinary Cotes du Rhone but you’ll find it better than many CdR Villages and on a par with quite a few Crus. Very Highly Recommended.

It is a blend, of Grenache (85%), Syrah and Mourvedre, grown without chemical fertilizers and harvested by hand. Aromas are of dark fruit, especially plum, and with hints of liquorice. It is rich and spicy on the palate, more red than dark fruit here. It is drinking well now; indeed, while it may age for a few years, it is intended to be drunk young. So now’s the time. Happy Christmas.

Gran Passione Rosso 2013 (Veneto IGT 2013), 14%, €13.95 Karwig Wines.

This is another very popular red wine in Karwigs. Indeed, they ran out of it a while back but got new stock in about two weeks ago. This is a great wine for roasted red meats, for game dishes and excellent too with mature hard cheeses. Read my take on it here.

Indeed, Karwig’s are quite strong on Italian reds, many of them well priced. Casale Vecchio Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2009, is another that I enjoyed earlier this month and you’ll find the details here. Just make sure you get there before Santa!

Dinner from Neven Maguire’s Kitchen

Dinner from Neven Maguire’s Kitchen

Prestige Menu at MacNean House

Thornhill duck (medium); full menu at bottom of this post.

It’s about four hours and twenty minutes from our house in Cork to Neven Maguire’s MacNean House and restaurant in Blacklion. But it’s well worth the trip as we found out when we had dinner at the famous County Cavan venue last Friday night. And, yes, Neven was in the kitchen, as he regularly is!

Neven and his wife, Amelda, took inspiration for the new décor and recipes from extensive travel and research in London, Paris, Australia, New Zealand and Thailand. The restaurant's menu reflects his continued advocacy of local and artisan producers and insistence on high quality, seasonal and traceable produce.

Crab

The dining room is bright, spacious and beautifully decorated. Colours are muted and you soon feel at ease in the comfortable chairs. Of course, the bar area is very comfortable as well and here you can have your aperitif, listen to the live music (a local trio last Friday) and study the menu. Not too much studying required though if you go for the Prestige Menu as this requires the participation of the whole table (there were six of us). And the only choice you need to make is between the beef and the local duck.

Needless to say, service was friendly and immaculate. The various dishes were well sized, the intervals between well judged and the wine pairings (optional) were excellent. These latter were chosen by Blaithin McCabe. Wouldn’t normally pick a Gamay but the one here could change that. Similarly, the Picpoul de Pinet is one of the best I’ve come across. And I was toasting Yalumba’s Jane Ferrari as I sipped the dessert wine.

Seared breast of Partridge

Don't want to bother you with too much detail about the meal. You can see the menu below for yourself. The Partridge was perhaps the highlight for me of the early dishes, perfection itself. CL was delighted with the Crab Cocktail and the Scallop.

Our hosts had very strongly recommended the Thornhill Duck Breast and it is a superb product and, after the intervention of Neven and his team in the kitchen, it becomes a superb dish. Yes indeed, very highly recommended with both of us in full and enthusiastic agreement!

Ryefield cheese

Neven’s commitment to local producers is underlined throughout his menus. Ryefield Goat Cheese, from County Cavan,  was featured on the cheese course. The highlight towards the end is, of course, the Chocolate Sensation. This has quite a visual impact as the perfect sphere of dark chocolate collapses seconds after the sauce is poured on from a wee jug! Tastes good though, very good indeed!

Truffles

Aside from the Prestige Menu (€87), MacNean’s also serve a Dinner Menu (72) and Sunday Lunch (39). A relatively new addition that you may not know about is the The Chef’s Table. This is next door in the Cookery School and will accommodate between 10 and 20 guests. Neven and his dedicated team will cook and serve your meal in full view of your guests.

Dining room

You know of course that Neven has quite a few cookbooks to his name, including the most recent called Fast. But you can also see some of his recipes online here.

Check Chocolate Sensation video!

Danger: You may find yourself licking the screen.

The Prestige Menu

Neven’s 9 course signature Tasting Menu.

Canopes  

Crab Cocktail (Oriental tuna, Poached oysters and Celeriac Mousse)

Partridge (Seared breast and, not in picture, Confit leg, creamed spinach and potato Rostis)

Seared Sea Scallops (Carmelised pork cheek and textures of pumpkin)

Salt and Aged Beef Fillet (Braised short rib and creamed celeriac)

or

Thornhill Duck Breast (seared Foie Gras, Wild mushroom polenta and butternut squash puree)

Ryefield Cheese (Fritter and cannelloni with textures of beetroot)

Pre-dessert

Chocolate Sensation

(chocolate sphere, brownie, caramel mousse and ice cream).

Tea or Coffee and Petit Fours

The wines

Champagne Charpentier Brut Prestige NV

Lucien Ladry Moulin-a-Vent, Vielle Vignes, Beaujolais 2012

Domaine Felines Jourdan, Picpoul de Pinet, 2013

Cannonau Costera, Argiolas, Sardina 2011.

Yalumba Botrytis Viognier, Australia

Amuse Bouche

Arthur opens another bottle of wine but spits out the first mouthful.

“Corked?” asks Blanche.

“No, just Californian,” he says, squinting at the label. “La vie est trop courte pour boire du mauvais vin.” He quotes the proverb grandly as he shoves the window up to empty the wine into the street.

From the darkness below comes a shout that could be protest or jubilation, it’s hard to tell.

from Frog Music by Emma Donoghue

Wine. Two for the Meat. One for the Sweet.

Wine: Two for the Meat. One for the Sweet

I have been dipping into SuperValu’s 12 wines for Christmas and reckon these three are ideal companions for the season. The first can match most desserts while the others will go well with your roasts, including the turkey. All are reduced from the 10th of December until the end of the month.

Vinha do Foral Moscatel de Setubal (Portugal), 17.5%, €12.00 SuperValu

The beautiful amber colour catches your eye and the aromas (orange skin, honey) are quite intense. On the palate, this sweet wine, well balanced and not at all “sticky”, is crisp and fresh, enough sweetness to pair with desserts (even the Christmas pudding), yet dry enough to shine as an aperitif, maybe even as an apres digestif. Either way there is a prolonged finish. Oh, by the way, it seems you can have it with two or three ice cubes. I haven’t tried that.

Made by the Cooperativa de Pegoes from one hundred per cent Moscatel grapes, this is a Very Highly Recommended. Do note the higher alcohol content. Like Port, this is a fortified wine.

Right bank ahead. Crossing the Garonne
at Langoiran

Chateau Sissan Grande Reserve 2011, Cadillac Cotes de Bordeaux, 13.5%, €10.00 SuperValu.

This is a relatively new (2008) denomination and covers a narrow strip on the right bank of the Garonne, more or less across the river from Barsac and Sauternes. According to the World Atlas of Wine, the area produces “toothsome reds”.

And this one certainly is toothsome! It has a lovely ruby robe and, on the nose, has lots of red fruit aromas, some spice too. A well made wine with superb ripe soft fruits on the palate and again hints of spice; it is full bodied, mellow and with a lingering finish.

Blend of Merlot (55%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Cabernet Franc (5%). Very Highly Recommended.

La Rioja

Finca Labarca Reserva 2007 (Rioja), 14%, €10.00, SuperValu

Rioja, and its Tempranillo, is a favourite here, so this was welcome when it arrived and even more so after opening. It may well be seven years old and the red may not be as deep as early on but there is no shortage of fruit on the palate and there is lively spice as well (quite a match for the local spiced beef!). The oak has been well integrated, the tannins are soft, the finish long. Another wine for the Christmas where its versatility will be a bonus. Very Highly Recommended.

Taste of the Week. Medieval. Magical.

Taste of the Week. Medieval. Magical.

Medieval loaf by Arbutus Bread

The Medieval loaf from Arbutus Bread doesn’t look all that attractive. It looks dark and ancient, something that a serf might eat but surely not his knight! But, don’t judge the book by the cover.

Arbutus say it is “for cheese lovers”, “delicious with a fresh goats cheese or other cheeses or superb on it’s own”. And it is.

But now I have another way, a very delicious way indeed, my Taste of the Week. I find the loaf keeps very well but, for some reason, decided to toast a few slices the other morning. And then I added a decent slather of a city honey that a friend had given me from his own bees. Serendipity! Whatever, it is gorgeous, fantastic texture and flavours from the warmed fruits and nuts and the honey sinking in to the bread. Try it!

Ingredients: Wholemeal Flour, White Flour, Water, Sourdough Cultures, chopped Figs, dates, Almonds, Walnuts, Hazelnuts & Organic Cider Apple Syrup. It is suitable for vegetarians and vegans.

The Chicken Inn Supreme

The Chicken Inn Supreme

Tim Mulcahy

Tim Mulcahy, the merry gentleman at the Chicken Inn in ye olde English Market, is aglow with tidings of joy. “Honest to God, we’re delighted to get the McKenna Guides plaque, very enthusiastic about the whole thing. We regard it as an endorsement of what we do and of the way we do it. From our customers’ point of view, it has to be seen as a vote of confidence, that what they're buying from us is of a significant standard.”

And, singing of Christmas, well speaking of it, the good news continues: “The geese are on their way, from Robbie Fitzsimmons of East Ferry. We’ve been dealing with Robbie for the past 15 to 20 years. The goose is very popular with a regular section of our customers who know how to get the best from it. Certainly, it doesn't have as much meat compared to your turkey but every bit of the goose is beautiful, succulent!”

The Chicken Inn makes Christmas easy for you. “We’ll have have our usual cooked ham, spiced beef and turkey of course. All cooked slow and low and on the bone and all very convenient for the customer. And your turkey fillet can be ordered sliced. If a whole ham is too much for you, we also do a half a ham as well. The way it's cooked allows you put on your own rub (e.g. honey and mustard) and roast it yourself. Some add pineapple and cloves of course.”

Do you like to make your own paté? Well Tim has “a plentiful supply of fresh chicken livers” for you.  And you don’t need me to tell about their very tasty Spiced Beef.

“I’d like to wish all our customers a very Happy Christmas and all the best in the New Year. Thanks too to our staff, fully behind our efforts here, and a major factor in helping us get the McKenna’s plaque.  That plaque is also something of a present for my mother, who’ll be sixty years in the English Market in 2015.”

Amuse Bouche

The first time, she tried to spare herself, poking gingerly at the pale stippled skin with the tip of her knife until Jimmie took it from her and ripped the bird (turkey) open from the slot at its rear all the way to the breastbone, and when she tried to dislodge the organs with a knife and spoon rather than her fingers, Jimmie just reached in and tore them out. “There’s nothing to be squeamish of,” he said. “It’s just animals. Meat, that’s all it is.”

from San Miguel by T.C. Boyle

Jingle Bell Rhone. Two for the red stocking

Jingle Bell Rhone

Two for the red stocking

Fountain in memory of a local troubadour
at the entrance to Vacqueyras

Remy Ferbras Vacqueyras 2013 (Rhone, France), 13.5%, €10.00 SuperValu.

Colour is ruby red and cherries stand out in the inviting mix of aromas. There is a great balance between lively fruit and spices plus a hint of liquorice, impressive blend, full bodied and rounded and a good bottle to have on your table at this time of year. Very Highly Recommended.

Regulations governing the AOC allow the use of up to 22 grape varieties but the three main ones in Vacqueyras rouge are Grenache (at least 50%), Syrah and Mourvedre, hence the term GSM wine,often tossed about by experts to the confusion of us amateurs.

Vacqueyras is one of eight villages in the Southern Rhone that has its own name as the AOC name. The others are Rasteau, Vinsobres, Gigondas, Beaumes de Venise, Lirac, Tavel and Chateauneuf-du-Pape and all eight are regarded as Crus.

The village itself is small and tree lined. Indeed, when I called there a few years back, the canopy of leaves had the centre in deep shade in the early afternoon. Looked a bit unreal.

Vines in the Southern Rhone

Chateau Goudray, Seguret Cotes du Rhone Villages 2012, 15%, €10.00 SuperValu

This is another of the Rhone’s GSM wines (we’re learning fast!). Minimum ABV for Seguret is 12.5% so this is comfortably above that! Hillside Seguret, like Vacqueyras, is a village in the Southern Rhone but, unlike its neighbour, is not allowed to go solo on the label. It can only append its name to the more general Cotes du Rhone Village labels, a step down on going solo but a step up on the basic Cotes du Rhone.

This too has an inviting fruity aroma and a ruby colour. Another very handy one for the Christmas, it is fruity, spicier than the Vacqueyras, well rounded, well balanced (no hint of that higher alcohol), dry, and with a decent finish. Could be an interesting match-up with that new local spiced buffalo by Eoin O'Mahony in the English Market. Again, Very Highly Recommended.

The World Atlas of Wine says that Seguet develops quickly. You've been warned!

Ballymaloe Café & Shop. Pleasant Interlude in Shanagarry

Ballymaloe Café & Shop

Pleasant Interlude in Shanagarry

Plum tart. And left, Bacon (top), smoked Mackerel

Gortnamona, Cashel Blue, Rosscarbery Bacon, Frank Hederman, Tim O’s. All these local names appeared on the board in the Ballymaloe Cafe Wednesday at lunchtime. It instils confidence in customers (including me) and underlines Ballymaloe’s ongoing support for Irish producers. It also makes for an excellent lunch as we would soon find out.

Our first call here though was to the shop, packed with foodstuffs, kitchen and dining kit, clothes, books, and craft. Here again, there is great local content, including spices by Green Saffron. Look out too for Jerpoint Glass and pottery by Nicholas Mosse.

We replaced a few items, including a battered biscuit tin and some jaded egg cups. Our eggs will now be served in miniature buckets, with handles if you please. The book selection is very local indeed, much of it by members of the Allen family but also including the new Fresh Spice by Arun of Green Saffron along with Giana Ferguson’s Gubbeen.

But the one we got this time was Rory O’Connell’s Master It. Quite a large book but with very few big words. I have been reading the opening pages and am struck by the simplicity of the language and instructions, all as clear as day. Maybe there’s hope for me yet in the kitchen. One of the advantage of having so many local authors on the shelf here is that most of the books are signed.

Bags filled and then it was time for lunch. The cafe is conveniently situated at the back of the shop. Studied that board and we each went for a sandwich. CL picked the Hederman’s Smoked Mackerel while my choice was the Rosscarbery Home Cured Bacon, each €10.50 and each accompanied by Ballymaloe’s own brown bread, salad and condiments.

We were very happy customers at this point, couldn't have asked for more. But we did! I dare you resist the line-up of cakes and pastries on the counter. We didn't and each of us picked the Plum, Blueberries and Almond Tart. Haven't come across this too often but this was superb. All in all a lovely meal, served with no fuss but with smiles and chat. A lovely interlude.

Vote for Award Winning Truly Irish

Vote for Award-Winning Truly Irish

The Twomeys from Mallow, one of the farming
families that make up Truly Irish

A couple of months back, I was seeking your vote for my dish, which included Truly Irish rashers, on the Cono Sur Bloggers Competition and we made it to the grand final in Paris. Now Truly Irish themselves are looking for your vote to get their name on the Munster Rugby jersey! And hoping, of course, that Munster make it to the grand final of the Champions Cup. Truly Irish are one of five businesses listed for the award.

Truly Irish Country Foods, based in Newcastle West,  are a cooperative of pork producers from all over Ireland. They produce award winning, natural, premium quality, breakfast products including pork and bacon which are DNA traceable back to local high welfare pig farms.

And they are giving you an incentive or two to vote. “The three Truly Irish pigs (Peppa, Porky and Percy) are delighted to announce that Truly Irish are giving away a free brand new iPad Mini to celebrate being shortlisted for the #sponsorforaday awards. If you'd like to win this amazing prize all you need to do is vote for Truly Irish Country Foods here: don't forget to tag all your friends and remember to like our Facebook page and follow us on Twitter!!!! Best of luck everyone, sharing is caring!!!” You could also win a Truly Irish Christmas Horseshoe Gammon Ham.

I used their Beechwood smoked rashers in the recipe and they were brilliant, their aromas drawing a bunch of other contestants and judges as they were fried in the final cook-off in Paris. Even top Chilean chef Christopher Carpentier borrowed a few for the lunch dish he served the contestants and afterwards praised "that wonderful Irish bacon". Now I'm looking forward to tasting the Truly Irish Gammon Ham at Christmas.

As you are well aware, the countdown has begun! Today is the 4th of December which means there are only 6 days left to order your Truly Irish Christmas Gammon Ham online at www.trulyirish.ie. “Our delicious, mouth-watering 5.5kg ham is 100% Irish, fully traceable back to local Truly Irish farms, and includes free delivery to your door in time for Christmas!!! So if you want to support local this Christmas while enjoying the premium quality and superb taste of Truly Irish then log onto our website or call us now on 069 78334 to order over the phone!!!!!”

And don’t forget to vote here; closing date is December 15th.

Percy, one the three Truly Irish pigs, sings the Truly Irish song here.