Rural Cafe serves Europe on a Plate

Rural Cafe serves Europe on a Plate
Mozarella to Manzanilla

There is a little red shop and cafe in the countryside on the R584, a fascinating winding road  between Macroom and Bantry. Nothing special here, you might think. You’d be a long ways wrong. For in this little treasure house, you may buy Olives, Olive Oil, Sundried Tomatoes, Dried Fruit and other Mediterranean goodies.

And you will also see Mozzarella and Ricotta on sale here. More from the Med? No, because these gorgeous cheeses are made with milk from the local buffalo, introduced here a couple of years ago by Toby Simmonds (of the Real Olive Co) and local farmer Johnny Lynch.

Was on my way to Killarney last week and decided to make a detour to the shop which is just past the famous Gearagh and on the right immediately after crossing the Toon River. As it turned out, Toby and Jenny Rose were in the café. Delighted to see them.

Toby said they had been “blown away” by the reaction to the recent opening of the cafe, thrilled with the huge local support. Already there are plans for expansion and the Toons Bridge Dairy Shop/Cafe could become a must call stop on the way west. Maybe a full stop!

Jenny Rose: "We sell our buffalo milk produce (mozzarella, ricotta, butter, raw milk, aged cheese, cream cheese and yoghourt) and our Mediterranean foods (olives, oils, Iberico meats etc.). We also provide an outlet for other local artisan producers (De Roiste puddings, Coola cheese, jams etc.). Attached to the old creamery there is a pretty garden, where we grow lots of the herbs and edible flowers used on the olive stalls."

In the cafe, they serve simple food made from the abundant ingredients on site as well as good coffee, organic wine and sherry and scrumptious homemade desserts. We didn’t time it all that well. Would have loved to have had a bigger meal but settled for a small one.

But that small one was unbelievable: mozzarella (so so fresh), tomato and basil. Best ever! And CL was also thrilled with her Toasted Sandwich of Mozzarella, Tomatoes, and a basil pesto, served with a tomato relish. Top class and so too was the coffee. Sadly, we had to leave the collection of cakes and desserts behind us but I’m sure they found good homes.

Jenny Rose and Toby then took time out to show us around the adjoining dairy where the cheese is made, soft cheese and hard cheese. Sean Ferry is the cheesemaker, an experienced operator, previously involved with Gabriel cheese. 

While there is a quick turnaround for the soft cheese, the hard cheese (both buffalo and cow) has to be held for much longer, about eight months for the buffalo and maybe up to three times that for the cow. Sean then took us to the Cheese room where the big rounds mature under ideal conditions.

Back out into the yard then where the vans come and go to the English Market and to the many farmer’s markets that this little dairy serves. 

Time to say goodbye and thanks to Sean and head down a nearby side road to see the buffalo in the fields. Directions were precise and we found them without a bother, thinking all the time that the few people behind this thriving enterprise deserve fantastic credit for the way they have put it all together. And there is more to come! Watch this space.

For us though, the focus was now on the road. Toby obviously loves the countryside around here and strongly recommended we take the route. And it was well worthwhile, even if there was grass growing in the middle. Loved the autumn colours and the views as we headed up through Reenaree and then down into the back of Ballyvourney. 

Hard cheese, buffalo (on top) and cow.

Beer Tasting (and tips!) at The Kiln

Beer Tasting at The Kiln

The man in the bar had a wine glass in his hand. But that wasn't wine in the glass. He covered the opening with his hand and shook the glass. Taking away his hand, he asked me to smell. As I do so, he said “Toffee Bar”. I agreed. Then he said: “Beamish”. And it was the old Cork favourite, the toffee bar aromas enhanced by the agitation and the shape of the glass.

The man was Marc Stroobadnt, a renowned beer expert from Belgium, sometimes called a beer sommelier, sometimes a cicerone, nowadays working out of London and a regular visitor to Ireland. He was at the Kiln fronting an event called “Beer. It’s only natural”, organised by ThisisBeer.ie

Cheese and Crème Caramel. No bother to Affligem!

Part of the purpose of the entertaining evening was to show that beer can go well with food. Just a few minutes earlier he had demonstrated exactly that with Affligem, a Belgian abbey beer. First he matched it with cheese and then with a Crème Caramel. Amazing, the beer seemed to adapt and proved a match with each.

In fairness though, the food matching theme was there from the start, with regular beers such as Heineken (Holland), Tiger (Singapore), Żywiec (Poland) and Paulaner (Germany). I like my wheat beers so I enjoyed the Paulaner but I think the one most popular at our table was the Affligem and not only because it was the strongest!

There was a big emphasis too on the fact that all these beers are made from just four ingredients: barley, hops, water and yeast. Then how are they so different? Marc: “Well, you give four ingredients to a team of chefs and ask them to make soup and you’ll see many differences too, as they’ll cook them differently, using different proportions.”

True enough and fair enough. The four ingredients were all on show but Marc and his team were keeping a special eye on the yeast. Someone asked what would happen if she concealed a little to take home and start her own beer. “You wouldn’t get past the door,” said the Belgian. Don’t think he was joking.

Yours Truly with Marc (right)

So well done to the organisers. No shortage of beer and lots of info on it. Well done to the kitchens at Heineken who came up with many tasty bits for the matching. Very enjoyable overall.

By the way, that website is well worth a visit. It is a hub for beer enthusiasts and those who enjoy an occasional beer and will help you get the best of it. It includes video blogs, beer tasting notes, food matching tips and information on those four ingredients. Check it out here.  

Next week, they host the event in Dublin. The venue is 4 Dame Lane and the three dates are 12th, 13th and 14th November. Info and tickets here.

Blúiríní Blasta agus Tigh Bhric

Blúiríní Blasta agus Tigh Bhric. Eating and drinking on the Dingle peninsula. Check it out at my other site

Two Johann Strauss Numbers

Austria’s Grape: Grüner Veltliner

A Johann Strauss Duet.

On a coach tour through Austria some eight years ago, two things were unavoidable: one was dreaded dry pork (it featured in every dinner in the budget hotels) and the other was their “national wine” made from Grüner Veltliner.

So, I was nearly turned off pork but certainly I was turned on to GV or Gru-vee as some call it. GV may not be unique to Austria but it “belongs” to the country in the same way that Zinfandel is associated with California.

While it is a national treasure, the Austrians sometimes treat it quite nonchalantly as was the case in a wine tavern in Grinzing (close to Vienna) where they were serving it in half litre mugs at three euro a time. Quite a night. Wine, schrammelmusik and I don’t think we got pork there!

Memories of that Austrian trip came back as I recently tried two GV’s from Karwig Wines, both made by Weingut Johann Strauss in the Kremser area. This region, on the banks of the Danube and west of Vienna, is not too far east of the abbey of Melk, a famous tourist attraction that some of you may have visited.

My rainy day cruise by the Danube vineyards

Weingut Johann Strauss, 2009 Grüner Veltliner (Alte Reben, Kremser, Weinzierlberg), 13.5%, €15.70 Karwig Wines

Weingut Johann Strauss, 2009 Grüner Veltliner (Kremser, Sandgrube), 13%, €13.50 Karwig Wines

The first wine is made from the fruits of old vines (Alte Reben) in the Weinzierlberg vineyard while the second, not from old vines apparently, gets its fruit from the adjoining Sandgrube (sandpit) vineyard, both in the Kremser.

Joe Karwig says that location can be a quite important factor in Grüner Veltliner, though that didn’t seem to be the case here. Each has white fruit aromas and a colour of light gold (with green hints).

The first one has a pleasant tingly introduction, followed by fairly intense fruit flavours before a long dry finish and performed at a good level from start to finish. It is possibly a little more lush and slightly peppery than the Sandgrube but there is not much between them in my humble opinion. The Sandgrube has a very similar attack, again with nice bright fruit flavours and a similar finish.

So there you are, a pleasant alternative to the mainstream white grapes. I certainly enjoyed them and both are highly recommended, well worth a try.

Music in Grinzing wine house

Food for throught at Cork Seminar

WOMEN IN BUSINESS MAKING CONNECTIONS WITH SECAD

Annie's Roasts, a regular at markets,supported by South & East Cork Area Development (SECAD).

Deirdre Collins of Dee’s Wholefoods, who appeared on Dragon’s Den last year, will talk about building her business of vegetarian ready meals from farmers’ markets to a now national brand available in all major retailers in Ireland & UK when SECAD hosting their annual regional seminar for the Catalyst Women in Business Project on 21st November in the Radisson Blu Hotel & Spa, Little Island.  An amazing line up of successful women in business is likely to draw women interesting in starting up their own business, or those already in business.

Deidre O’Shaughnessy, Editor of Cork Independent and regular Newstalk radio and TV contributor will talk about making connections and building relationships for your profile and business across all sectors.

“This year, we decided to choose ‘Making Connections’ as the seminar theme.  Through our work in the South and East region, we know how important it is to network with other people in business who have the potential to become partners, customers or who can provide personal referrals. This is why we have decided to theme this event around making connections” said Sinéad Conroy, SECAD.

Over the past two years SECAD has co-ordinated numerous networking events, organised mentoring and organised training courses specifically for women in business to support business women and aspiring female entrepreneurs.  One of the key objectives of the Catalyst project is to provide opportunities for women in business to make connections which will help them to grow and develop their businesses.

 “We are delighted that Dee will be providing us with some “food for thought” around how to connect with potential customers” added Sinéad Conroy, SECAD. For further details on this event and to secure your place now please email Sinéad Conroy at sconroy@secad.ie or call 021.4613432.

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting

Taste of the week, available
at Bradley's, North Main St

Good Food Ireland Awards
Cork’s Farmgate Cafe are in the running for the Good Food Ireland Café of the Year. Finalists were chosen by the Good Food Ireland Quality Assurance Panel and by consumers who have voted online.

The Farmgate: “So thank you to all who voted for us! In the meantime, although it would be nice to bring a bit more good news in a few weeks when we hear the final results, we shall keep calm and carry on!”
See all the categories and the full lists of finalists here.


Wedding bells at The Castle
Many of you, like me, will have enjoyed a delicious meal in B’s Restaurant in the Castle Hotel Macroom and you’ll be able to sample the culinary delights prepared by  award winning Executive Head Chef Pat Ryan next Sunday when the Hotel holds its annual wedding fair.

There is so much more to a wedding day than food of course and the Castle will have a strong line-up of providers (including a florist and photographer) on hand from noon on Sunday. The wedding team at the friendly 4 star invites you to sample its wedding offering on Sunday, 11 November between 12pm- 4pm. Check it all out here.


“Un Histoire D’amour a Noel” at Flemings
Flemings Restaurant http://www.flemingsrestaurant.ie/(Tivoli) presents “a unique event of French song and fine food with a seasonal Christmas theme, created by our own Michael Fleming”.

On Saturday November 24th and on Thursday December 13th, you will have the opportunity to enjoy this special event.

Rouge et Noir; Roos Deml and Olivia O'Connell will sing well known French songs (think Edith Piaf & Jacques Brel)! €55 per person for an evening of great entertainment and great food.

Waterford's Winterval

500,000 visitors are expected to visit the city of Waterford later this month for inaugural festive festival ‘Winterval’. Details were unveiled by Ireland AM’s Anna Daly in the city this week.

In keeping the with tradition established back in medieval times when end-of-year markets sprung up as social gatherings where people could enjoy a little excess before the onset of bitter weather, a festive ‘Winterval Market’ will take over the heart of the medieval city where 60 beautifully decorated log cabins offering the very best quality and range of goods in food, craft, wooden traditional toys and decorations will feature throughout the festival.

The brand new Winterval Festival offers a jam packed schedule of fun filled activities featuring many ‘firsts’ for Ireland including the free ‘Sol Luminiere Lightshow’ a spectacular 3D sound and light show designed especially for Winterval, which will light up the Deanery in Cathedral Square each evening during the festival.

There is so much more. Read all about here!

Shorts

Dish of the Day from 2012 Rising Star Chef Chris Kulis of Capische?- Kihei, HI

Hawaiian Ranchers Beef Carpaccio, Horseradish Aïoli, Watermelon Radish, Garden Greens, Preserved Meyer Lemon Oil, Croutons, Fried Capers, and Parmigiano-Reggiano

Check out Chef Kulis and more of the 2012 Hawaii Rising Star winners today!

http://www.starchefs.com/cook/chefs/rising-stars/2012/hawaii/why-they-shine

Beaujolais Nouveau Arrives in Clon next Thursday

Beaujolais Nouveau Arrives in Clon next Thursday

Celebrate one of France’s best loved traditions in The Winery (cafe/wine bar), Asna Square, Clonakilty next Thursday November 15.
They are hosting a celebration of all things French to mark the uncorking of this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau.
Known as the wine of friendship, under French law, it can only be released on 12.01am on November 15, just weeks after the wine’s grapes have been harvested
Then producers race to deliver the first vintage to celebrations in France, around the world - and now Clonakilty where everyone is invited to come along and an evening of French music, food, fun and friendship from 6pm!

Some additional info:
The Winery is celebrating with Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2012.
Georges Duboeuf is known for its popularisation and production of Beaujolais wines, leading to Duboeuf’s nickname of Le Roi du Beaujolais (The King of Beaujolais) or sometimes Pape du Beaujolais (Pope of Beaujolais).
Made from 100% Gamay grapes, which have thinner skins than most grapes, causing a lower tannin level, Beaujolais Nouveau is the most popular ‘vin de primeur’, fermented for just a few weeks and then officially released for sale. By law, Beaujolais Grapes must be harvested by hand and grown on individual, free standing vines. Beaujolais Nouveau owes its easy drinkability to a winemaking process called carbonic maceration, or whole-berry fermentation. This technique preserves the fresh, fruity quality of the wine.
Beaujolais Nouveau is known internationally as the wine of friendship and hospitality. Every year, in celebration of the harvest, Georges Duboeuf unveils another interpretation of his highly anticipated Beaujolais Nouveau. Known for its colourful presentation, Dubeouf’s 2012 Nouveau label is vibrant and avant-garde with its use of red on gold images and its distinctive Duboeuf insignia, offering definite celebratory appeal!

Enjoyable Stay at Dublin’s Ashling Hotel

Enjoyable Stay at Dublin’s Ashling Hotel

The four star Ashling Hotel  in Parkgate Street, just 200 metres from Heuston Station, was my base for a recent short stay in Dublin. With the station so close, and two Luas stops nearby, and visits to the Zoo and the Guinness Storehouse on the agenda, it was a convenient location.

And also a very good one. The staff, day and evening, were brilliant, at reception, in the restaurant and in the bar. The place was bright and smart and there was very comfortable seating in the public areas.

Anyone for Breakfast?

Chesterfield Avenue is nearby and takes you to the Zoo and the hotel restaurant has the same name. It also has lots of good Irish produce. I thoroughly enjoyed my Silver Hill Duck and Quail Salad. And that was followed by a delicious falling-off-the-bone shank of Galway lamb. The choice at breakfast, also served in Chesterfield’s, was huge, quality all the way.

Chicken and Gammon Sandwich in the bar.

 This being Guinness country, the busy spacious bar is named the Iveagh Bar. No Irish craft beer here but did enjoy a few pints of Erdinger and found the bar food excellent on the one occasion we ate there.

Restaurant dessert

 They are strict enough about check-in and check-out time but will hold your luggage for you, which is a handy facility. There are quite a few attractions in the immediate area, including the gaol and museum in Kilmainham. But it is very easy to get to the city centre. You’d walk it in about 20 minutes; the Luas is very convenient and so too is the bus.

Highly recommended.

Silver Hill Duck and Quail Salad in restaurant

Faustino’s Mythical Years. Unreal!

Faustino’s Mythical Years. Unreal!

Sergio and Rafa take the floor.

 1964. 1970. 1981. 1994. 1999. These were the “Mythical Years” in the vineyards of La Rioja and Sergio and wine-maker Rafa brought the five Faustino 1 Gran Reservas to Jacob’s on the Mall last evening, keeping the best wine ‘til last and producing this stunning line-up as the cheese plates appeared.

Amazing how the old 1964 looked so young and fresh, its deep lively crimson elegant and bright. Like its younger relations, it is made from 85% Tempranillo with Graciano (which adds “a little colour and character”) and Mazuelo also in the blend. Aromas are intense and spicy and on the palate it is ample and smooth.

Aromas and colours changed slightly over the years but all the wines, all of which have spent about 2 years in oak, are velvety and spicy, rounded and well balanced and with a long dry finish. 

During the vertical tasting, Rafa said that “1964 was the best year ever “ and that they still “have a few bottles left”. A remarkable set and great to get the chance to taste these five together.

Sergio, Anne, Kieran, Yours Truly and Rafa

With the main course of lamb, we were introduced to a more recent range, the Portia, a Ribera del Duero DO, Spain’s “second most well known appellation”. Started with the Ebeia Roble. This has spent four months in oak and is the entry level wine, made with 100 per cent Tempranillo (known as Tinta Fina del Pais in the vineyards), just like the others.

Next was the Crianza, made in much the same process as the Ebeia Roble but this has spent 12 months in American oak barrels and it shows in the aromas, taste and aftertaste.

The award winning Portia Prima is a gem, with limited production and made only in “exceptional years”. The handpicked grapes are again sorted before fermentation. The Malolactic Fermentation is in new French oak barrels;  there are 15 months of ageing in the barrels and then nine in the bottle before the release. Worth waiting for!

The evening had started with a Cava reception and some very nice bites from the kitchen that provide gorgeous food all the way through. Then we moved to the tables and a Seafood Cake starter. That required a white and, of course, Faustino had one, the fresh and light Faustino V Blanco Joven, a blend of Chardonnay and mainly Viura. A lovely start to what turned out to be a memorable wine event.

So thanks a million and Happy 150th anniversary to Faustino. Thanks too to Sergio and Rafa for bringing the best of their wines to Cork and to Gilbey's who hosted them last night!

Cork winners at Food Safety Professionals Awards

Focus on Food Allergens

 at Food Safety Professionals Conference

Midleton's Farmgate received their award from Tom Doorley.

 The dangers associated with food allergies and cross contamination of foods were the topic of discussion at the Food Safety Professionals Association (FSPA) conference held recently in Dublin.

“Food safety is of vital importance in the food manufacturing, retail, hospitality and catering sector if Ireland is to maintain its excellent reputation for food quality”, explained Lorraine Oman, Chair of the Food Safety Professionals Association (FSPA).

“Through the FSPA’s nationwide support network, we provide FETAC accredited training and expert advice on food safety and each year we acknowledge those in the industry who have been exemplary in their adoption of food safety policies”, Oman said.

The winners of this year’s prestigious Food Safety Professionals Awards were St. Patricks University Hospital (Dublin), Sodexo at Novartis (Cork), The Farm Gate Midleton (Cork), Colaiste Na Rinne (Co. Waterford) and Waterford Institute of Technology.  These organisations were recognized for their excellence in food safety across a number of criteria including structural and operational hygiene, food safety and protection, personal hygience and staff facilities as well as food safety management systems documentation.

Now in their second year, the awards encourage food businesses to reach for and maintain high standards of food safety.

“Recent outbreaks of E.Coli serve as an important reminder that food safety is not just a legal requirement but a moral obligation”, said Tom Doorley, who presented the FSPA Awards today. “As a nation of food producers, we must ensure that the excellent quality and flavor of our food is matched by equally impressive food safetystandards.  The work of the FSPA and their network of advisors and trainers in Ireland ensure that expertise and support is on hand to help our food businesses”.

Munster Eat-up at Blair’s Inn

Munster Eat-up at Blair’s Inn

Cheers to the Blairs. Duncan, Richard and their crew put in a tremendous show at the packed Cloghroe inn last evening as they hosted the latest version of the travelling show they've christened #munstertwEATup.

Most of the host restaurants so far have concentrated on the food element but the Blair boys went a step further as they added a craft brew layer with both beer and cider featured. Indeed, the evening started with a delicious Stonewell Cider Kir, sipped by the fireside.

Even the breads had a beer input: Black Rock Stout Brown Bread; Howling Gale Ale, Shandrum Cheese and Chive Bread; and a Cul Dorcha Toasted Walnut and Thyme Bread.  Dungarvan BrewCo, 8 Degrees and the West Kerry Brewery were represented on the night and there was a beer with each course.

Corned beef

 From a choice of starters, I picked the Ummera Smoked Chicken, Glenilen Farm Yoghurt, Celery and Apple Salad and the beer was Beal Ban, a pale English style bitter from West Kerry. A really tasty plateful and a good beer match. We were up and running.

The local theme continued with the next dish: Crispy Pork Belly, Seared Scallops, Stonewell Cider Foam, Apple and Celeriac Puree, McCarthy Black Pudding Crumble and Wild Ballyhoura Mushrooms. Quite a mouthful! All eased down with glass of the popular Howling Gale Ale from 8 Degrees.

I had enjoyed an opening pint of Friar Weisse from the Franciscan Well and that too featured in the Beer and Lime Sorbet. After that refreshing pause, it was on to the main course. We had a choice of three: Venison (Blair's are renowned for their game), Corned Beef or Hake.

Here, along with a glass of the well known Blarney Blonde from the Franciscan Well, I tucked into the Silverside of O’Crualaoi’s Corned Beef on a Leek Champ and cabbage served with a Parsley Sauce. Not a crumb remained!

Checking out Dungarvan Brew-Co's Project X ar Blair's

Also got a sample of the Baked Fillet of Hake on Roasted Peppers with a rustic Gubbeen Chorizo, Tomato and Chickpea Sauce but CL wasn’t as generous with her Helvick Head Blonde Ale from Dungarvan Brewco.

The beers and cider also featured in the gorgeous desert in a pot: Stonewell Cider and Blarney Blonde Ale Snake Bite Bavarois topped with a Carraig Dubh Chocolate Mousse. Smooth stuff and a very appropriate end to a lovely meal.

Busy at the Chapel Steps

 Busy at the Chapel Steps

Outside it was gloomy but inside (left) at the Chapel Steps  it was bright and busy. This is Bandon’s newest restaurant, just 8 weeks after its upgrade from cafe status. The signs are promising. It is a lovely space and a big crowd was in last night (Thursday) and great food on the table.

And no great surprise with the top notch food when you are learn that the Head Chef is Kevin O’Regan (ex Electric) and that he is concentrating hugely on the marvellous produce available in the area.

Kevin, along with the owners Sean and Siobhan (her Dad, along his brothers, ran the place as a butcher’s shop from the 1960’s), have instigated a series of speciality evenings.  Wednesday is a great night for steak lovers - choose from an 8oz Fillet, a 10oz Rib-eye or 12oz Sirloin with all the trimmings for only €20 per dish. Thursday is fish night and I took advantage!

 But back to the start and a very warm welcome as we came in from the dark and the wet. Had a chat with restaurant manager Caroline O’Flynn as we settled to the table. We had already been told about the wine special, supplied this month from the McHenry Hohnen vineyard in the Margaret River Region of Western Australia.

Having met founder David Hohnen (he also founded New Zealand’s famous Cloudy Bay and is busy now preparing his Porker legs for the Christmas trade) hardly a month back in Ballymaloe, we naturally went for his wine (Sauvignon blanc Semillon).

Quite a choice of starters and appetisers here. CL went for Pan Seared Rosscarbery Black Pudding - with crubeen croquette, chilli jam and smoked pancetta. Chef Kevin loves his crubeen and this was a great combination to get the meal underway. And so was mine: Home Smoked Duck - with beetroot, port and burnt butter vinaigrette.

Fish, collected early in the morning in Union Hall, is a regular on the menu and there is a good daily choice but an even better one on Thursday. I went for that special: Spiced Monkfish, butternut squash puree, with roast vegetables, chilli, lime and parsley emulsion. Just enough spice to liven it up without dulling the fish flavour. Just loved it, the freshness, the flavours and the combination of the various textures. All for €15.00. A special for sure.

 CL also enjoyed great value even though her €17.00 dish wasn't a special but a regular part of the menu. It was Roast Cod with roast peppers, chorizo, tomato and olive ragu. Another really lovely fish dish and another with a smashing super tasty sauce. Healthy also.

After all that good eating, we treated ourselves to dessert at a fiver each. She really loved the lively flavours of her Autumn Berry and Lemon Roulade with berry coulis and sugared almonds while I was equally happy with my well made Sticky Toffee Pudding with toffee and vanilla sauce, rum and raisin ice cream. This was a piece of real pudding, the sauce an enjoyable addition rather than a disguise.

 Then we met Siobhan who told us about the history of the place and the apprehension ahead of their big step-up from cafe to restaurant. Two months in and it seems that the big step is worthwhile. Early days yet of course but a good start is half the battle. Best wishes for the future then to Kevin, Siobhan and Sean. The Chapel Steps is just a short trip from the city and one that is well worthwhile. No penance here!

Food and Drink Spotting

Food and Drink Spotting

Kate Lawlor's Spiced Beef, Horseradish Croquette

Get Cooking

Well done to Margaret Smith and Goodall’s on publishing A Modern Irish Cookbook in double quick time. Well illustrated and uncluttered, it is packed with recipes provided by dozens of bloggers and it neatly divided into sections: Light Bites, Brunch, Dinner, Bread and Sweet Things.

Lots of us don’t like Raw Oysters but have you ever tried them grilled. Zack has just the recipe for you: Grilled Oysters with a Bacon and Blue Cheese Crumb. Many eye catching pics in the book and one features Potato Cakes with Smoked Salmon and Hollandaise by Donna.

Lots and lots of Dinner recipes including Potato and Scallion Strudel with Local Pork and Apple Velouté by Fritz, the chef proprietor of County Down’s Strudel Bistro. From Kildare’s Kenny’s Kitchen comes a tasty looking Sausages with Lentils.

Some really promising looking bread recipes including the famous one by Avril of Rosscarbery Recipes titled: Cheddar, Stout and Black Pudding Bread.

Hard to resist the Sweet Things, especially the Plum, Cardamom and Almond Cake by JensKitchen and the Beetroot and Orange Blossom Fudge by Kate from Fenn’s Quay, known as FQChefess on Twitter.

I even got roped in – hard to say no to Margaret! You’ll find my Marinated Mushroom Salad on Page 9. The trick here is to skip the marination, entirely possible if you live in Cork. Just go to your local market and buy a jar of the delicious marinated mushrooms by Ballyhoura Mountain Mushrooms, remove the top and pour them out onto your salad. Top class and no bother at all!

But do take a look at the book. Check it out on the top right corner of the screen and, remember, that proceeds go to two charities, including Cork’s own Penny Dinners!

Time for Port

I’m partial to a glass of Port at any time of year but know that many prefer it during the winter season and particularly at Christmas time. Some of you will have a favourite but, if not and even if you have, why not try the Taylor’s First Estate Reserve available at €11.99 from Bradley’s in North Main Street. It comes in a full bodied traditional classic style and is an excellent introduction to the Taylor’s style.

It is blended from young red wines and then mellowed for several years in oak casks and is a lovely after meal drink. Use it on its own or as a match with a salty cheese. The Taylor Port website is a very enjoyable one, with lots of information laid out in a simple clear way – see the entertaining section on Port traditions, for example.

Panama Joe

My current coffee is the most recent offering from the Robert Roberts’ Club and is a relative rarity in that it comes from Panama.

Gareth Scully says that coffees from Panama are few and far between and are highly sought after in the US and Germany. “Rancho Gotta Coffee Estate has been producing specialty coffee since 1985 and now produces solely Arabica coffee. The harvest is all done by hand. Rancho Gotta Coffee was one of the few coffees used at the 2011 World Coffee Tasters Championship in the Netherlands. I roasted this one to a medium level which is always important to make sure all the flavours in a coffee like this come through.”

“The medium roast compliments all the unique flavours, with strawberry, peach and dark chocolate notes. Among other things, are hints of blueberries as it cools. An incredible body to this coffee with a butterly feel to it too. Poetic license I know, but another great example of what specialty coffee should taste like….. Enjoy!”


Shorts
David Hohnen, who visited Ballymaloe last month,tells us about his Margaret River Porkers

Christmas offers from Amandine Confectionery 

Blair’s Inn nominated for Good Food Ireland Award!

Amuse Bouche

We started with alligator pears, Papa’s name for avocados. He used to pick them fresh from the hill-sides of Finca Vigia, or get them in a little bodega at the foot of the hill, on his way to town in the car to the harbor. They were fat and juicy and we’d scoop out the flesh with a spoon or a fork. They’d be seasoned with vinaigrette dressing. You could practically eat a half avocado in three scoops, you’d get so hungry out there in the salt air.....
We’d eat the avocados and wash them down with cold beer. That was the first course, the salad, a side dish, if you will. For a second course, we’d have fresh fish.
- From Hemingway’s Boat by Paul Hendrikson.

Guinness Storehouse Visit

Guinness Storehouse Visit

Got a terrific welcome as we arrived in the multi-storey Guinness Storehouse in Dublin last week. The place was surprisingly busy for the time of year but there was still time for the personal touch. The staff that we met were top class, friendly, helpful and informative. Chatty too and unhurried. Take a bow folks.

The Atrium is the central focus of the building and is in the shape of a giant pint glass. Some pint! 14.3 millions pints to be exact.

Water - a key ingredient

The self guided tour has a variety of sub headings. The ingredients (the brewery buys 100,000 tonnes of Irish barley annually) and craft of brewing, cooperage and transportation, advertising and sponsorship are among the subjects covered.

Lots of info. Not just words and images. See the actual machinery as well

As you move up the floors (via a combination of stairs, lifts and escalators), you’ll come to a spot where you’ll learn to pour your own perfect pint. Too many waiting there so we moved on up and had a look at the Brewer’s Dining Hall where a visitor can sample their “world famous” Beef and Guinness stew.

Good old days. I liked this cheeky one.

The Gravity Bar takes over the top floor and there is a 360 degree view of the city to be enjoyed, if you can find a space. We were patient with our free pint and eventually found a chair and enjoyed the views.

You can check all this out before you go on a well illustrated very informative and comprehensive website. You may also book your tickets online at a discount. Having your tickets in advance will save you from joining the bigger queues on arrival.

The view from the Gravity Bar.

Australia displays many faces of Shiraz

Australia displays many faces of Shiraz

 WineAustralia’s John McDonnell showed over a dozen quality wines in Fallon and Byrne last Friday. The aim of the tasting was to demonstrate that Australian Shiraz can exhibit both power and elegance and that the country can produce much more than just the big homogenous style.

With sixty four of Australia’s wine regions producing Shiraz, it would be most unlikely that they’d all come up with the same big, rich and powerful style. But that perception is out there. Two hours in Fallon and Byrne did much to dispel that myth. No lack of variety in this line-up.

 There may have been some gentle disagreement between those present, mainly restaurateurs and writers, about the comparative merits of the individual wines but, overall, the occasion was well worthwhile. Joining John at the top table were Clare Valley producer Tim Adams  and wine writer Kevin Ecock. 

Kevin, Tim and John

 2008 Ferngrove Shiraz, Frankland River. This first Shiraz was the only one from Western Australia and Kevin Ecock praised it as “an extremely good wine”. Tim said it reflected the “coolness of the district, angular, lean, with age potential.” Already we were talking about different types!

2009 Innocent Bystander Syrah, Yarra Valley. The difference here, at least the one that caused some conversation, was the fact that 2% Viognier was added to this Syrah (the only label that didn’t use Shiraz!). I don’t think the room was overly bothered about whether the minimum Viognier input was noted or not on the label.

2010 Tyrrells Rufus Stone Shiraz, Heathcote. I liked this best of the opening flight. It had nice fruit and spice, an excellent mouthfeel and the best finish. Tim classed it as medium bodied with “nice bright fruit flavours”.

2010 Wakefield Estate Shiraz. This widely available Clare Valley wine from the Taylor family (who believe that great wines are made in the vineyard!) was smooth and fruity, with supple tannins and spice hints in a medium body.

2009 Tim Adams Shiraz, Clare Valley. Tim didn’t use this to fly his own flag but did enlighten us on how water costs and weather variations are mega factors in the area and that winemakers have learned to grown more sustainable crops with better quality but at a higher cost.

This one certainly had quality and the price (€16.95) is not that mighty high. Kevin described it as the “standard bearer”. I thought it was a gem with power and finesse, really rounded, approachable, loveable. Brilliant.

2008 d’Arenberg Lovegrass Shiraz, McLaren Vale. This was something different, a blend of areas and a blend of varieties. It had a very inviting bouquet but delivery on the palate wasn't quite as brilliant. Mary Dowey wasn't so keen on it, saying it “suffers in the line-up here”.

2009 Wakefield Jaraman Clare McLaren Vale Shiraz. This was a blend of Shiraz from two different regions and I liked it, the intense fruit, the hints of spice and more, all excellent. Tim though said it needs more time, maybe up to five years, to bring even more out of the fruit.

2008 Tim Adams The Aberfeldy Shiraz, Clare Valley. The good news is that this is another gem, another complete wine from Tim, another with power and elegance combined. It has spent 24 months in oak but Tim guards against the oak taking over.

The less than good news is that the 4 acre plot, planted first in 1904, is “naturally dying”. It needs to be replaced and Tim is working on it. 

2009 Gatt Hugh Eden Shiraz, Eden Valley. This 100% estate grown smooth fruity beauty was the first of the final flight and got a big reception. Tim: ..absolute cracker.. elegant..poised..a very good example. 

Kevin: ...layers of interest...gentle and elegant.

2008 Jacobs Creek Reserve Shiraz, Barossa.

2009 Schild Estate Shiraz, Barossa.

Soft and elegant on the palate, the Schild was the one I voted for when a discussion arose about the comparative merits of these two. Quite a few had their hands up for this one though there were a few serious hands, only a few, raised in favour of the Jacobs.

2008 St Hallett Blackwell Shiraz, Barossa

2008 St Hallett Old Block, Barossa.

The tasting came to a brilliant end with these two, though only the first is available in Ireland. Loaded with flavour and colour, the Blackwell is intense and excellent. "Delicious," said John.

But the Old Block was something else. Tim said it was big and bold, “a richer version than the Blackwell, multi-layered with a great balance.” He advised that both were good for long term keeping and that he keeps them himself in his own collection. 

Yours truly with Mary Dowey.

The audience certainly enjoyed the tasting and the knowledge of Tim, Kevin and John. Indeed, John was urged to mount similar events in the future and to use the same formula (the same number of samples to be tasted in a 2 hour time frame). He was delighted to hear that his hard work had been approved and indicated that a similar Chardonnay occasion is in the pipeline.

In Praise of The Phoenix Park Tea Rooms

The Phoenix Park Tea Rooms

There are many attractions in Dublin’s Phoenix Park, the Zoo the most obvious and popular and perhaps also the biggest. But if you are in the area, keep an eye out for one of the smaller ones, the Phoenix Park Tea Rooms, on Chesterfield Avenue, just across the road from the Zoo entrance.

It looked gorgeous from the footpath last week, framed by the golden foliage of the many trees. So we walked in for a quick snack and right into a delightful spot and not just because there were a few squirrels frolicking in the immediate area.

They are open all day long and include some terrific organic stuff on the menu, including the coffee and tea. All the vegetables, salads and fruits are from Kinneden Organics in Roscommon, the chicken is from Cootehill in Monaghan. And their sourdough is by Arun Bakery.

I settled on a bowl of their terrific vegetable soup, served with a lovely tasty brown mini loaf by Arun, all for a fiver. Would have loved to have eaten more there but the soup and the bread fitted the bill at the time and I didn't get a chance to go back there.

But do put it on your list if you are in the area. It is hardly 15 minutes from Heuston Station and should be even more of a delight in the summer when you can sit out on a circle of rustic tables.

Telephone:             01 677 0090    

Food & Drink Spotting. Blair’s Inn to Feed Munster!

Food and Drink Spotting
Blair’s Inn to Feed Munster!

Guess the weight - see below.

Duncan Blair has been in touch, telling us all about the monster #munstertwEATup at Blair’s Inn. “It's taking place here on Sunday 4th November. As you've probably noticed we're gone craft beer crazy the last few months. The response to our growing selection of Irish craft beers has been amazing. We want to celebrate our locally brewed beers and ciders at the tweet up.”

“The evening kicks off at 5.30pm with a Stonewell Cider Kir reception ... Daniel calls them Cork Kirs, but I reckon they're screaming out to be called Cute Cork Kirs! Then we'll sit down to a five course meal with accompanying craft beers. But these won't be any ordinary beers.”

“We’re extremely excited about the fact that Dungarvan Brewing Co are brewing up a magic potion just for the night. We will also have guest beers from the Eight Degrees Brewing Company and the Franciscan Well. We will also be highlighting the West Kerry Brewing Company. Then at 9pm ... we're only getting warmed up at this stage ... we have live music in the bar, where people can tuck into our great selection of Craft Beers.”

“So, that should be a great night. Of course, we have the wine night on the 31st October." Book your place for these events at Blair’s. Phone: 021 4381470 or Email: info@blairsinn.ie

Halloween at Nash 19

Before Halloween became the commercial event that it is nowadays, the Barmbrack, with ring and pea, stick, coin and rag (no HSA then!) was its most popular treat and a huge source of fun to see who would be married soon or who would live forever in poverty!

Must say I enjoyed those bracks from the local baker, though one had to be careful and not bite into the ring. The bracks have over the years declined in quality but you can get still get a taste of the real thing at Nash 19 where their in-house baked Barmbrack is one of the highlights of their Halloween food selection and it may be bought in the shop.

Head Chef Pam Kelly loves that brack but is also busy incorporating seasonal foods into the menu at the busy day-time restaurant. Pumpkin is being used of course in a number of guises and there is a Squash and Ginger Chutney going with the Loin of Bacon. This time of the year sees the advent of game on the menu and Pam particularly recommends their Beef and Venison Casserole.

THAT’s a PUMPKIN!!!

Halloween draws near and the mother of all pumpkins has landed in L’Atitude 51. Guess the correct weight of this oversized gourd and you could win a really nice prize.

“To enter you need to like us on Facebook  and tell us what weight you think this monster is. The winner will be announced on Halloween Night (in the meantime we better find a large scales). ……..I’ve a funny feeling pumpkin might be making a regular appearance on the specials menu in November.”

StarChefs.com

Dish of the Day from 2010 New York Rising Star Pastry Chef Alex Stupak of Empellon Cocina – New York, NY: Swordfish, Gooseberry Salsa, and Masa Chicharrónes. Stupak showed the Main Stage crowd the versatility of learned pastry skills, branching out into savoury with this creative masa glucose chicharrón dish on Day 2 of the ICC! See it all here.

Wine

Isn’t Mrs Tyrell an awful woman, trying to frighten the life out of me with tales of spooks and ghosts, even witches. No. Not really. The good lady is just trying to tip me off about some really good wines offers at The Wine Store. Check them out here.

Tea and Garden Rooms

Tea and Garden Rooms

If ever you find yourself in Ballyvaughan or anywhere near it, and there are quite a few good reasons why you should be in the area, then be sure and check out the lovely Tea and Garden Rooms  run by Jane O’Donoghue in the scenic village.

Perhaps the best reason for calling to Ballyvaughan is to visit the Burren. There are quite a few routes to take through and around the Burren but perhaps the most spectacular is the coast road, up from Doolin, via Black Head and from there to Ballyvaughan. You’ll have the Burren on your right and Galway Bay and the Aran Islands to your left. There is also a smashing walk in the area.

Whether walking or driving, you now deserve a break. Park the car by Ballyvaughan harbour. Enjoy the scenery, the grey mountains and head into the Tea and Garden Rooms. Have a look at that large table groaning with freshly made cakes and head for the conservatory or indeed take a seat in the lovely garden.

If you just want a cuppa and cake, this is the place. Maybe you want lunch. Again, this is the spot. I really enjoyed a tasty fish pie here recently and followed that with a visit to that tempting table. Needless to say, I didn’t come away empty handed. Study that garden, have a look at the fish in the pond before you depart to finish your circle of the Burren.

And they are open, at the weekends, for November. So why not take a trip to Clare and the Burren. You’ll be there in no time, thanks to that Limerick tunnel. No one could resist this line-up on that celebrated cake table.  I certainly couldn’t!

Also visited: Cliffs of Moher The Burren Brewery Wild Honey Inn  St Tola Goat Cheese The Burren

Faustino Fun - for one night only!

On Thursday 15th November, for one evening only, Faustino are hosting a fabulous pop up bar in The Crypt at Christchurch Cathedral.

To celebrate, they are offering a number of exclusive tickets to the public.Check it out here 

Soft and generous, Tanto delivers a lot!

Tanto Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2011 (Italy), 
12.5%, €9.00 - 11.00, Stockists

Colour: Deep red.
Nose: A pleasant wave of red fruit aromas.
Palate: soft and generous with sufficient refinement to belie its youth and to complement the dark fruits (mainly plum, for me). Add in a long smooth finish and this warm juicy delicious wine lives up to its name and delivers a lot. Good value. Highly recommended.

It is generally acknowledged that the generous Montepulciano grape "is hard to foul up". The Tanto producers have not messed up here. Worth keeping an eye out for that colourful label.

* In Italian, Tanto means “a lot”.
** If you head east from Rome through Lazio, cross over the Appenines, you’ll find yourself in Abruzzo with the Adriatic ahead of you.