Greene’s Enchanting Cuisine. Kitchen Alchemy Behind The Red Brick

Greene’s Enchanting Cuisine.
Kitchen Alchemy Behind The Red Brick
Dessert!
Greene’s has a lot going for it - we’ll get to that later - but the food is key. And key to the great dishes is innovative Head Chef Bryan McCarthy and his insistence on the best of local produce and then his skilful handling of that produce from kitchen to plate.   


Forget the impressive red brick frontage, the often mentioned archway entrance, even the more often mentioned waterfall just outside the big window to the west, and let's start with the dessert. Why? Well it illustrates perfectly how this chef can surprise, can ambush you.


We were in from the fifty euro five course Tasting Menu. You get a list at the table:


Pre Starter
***
Starter
***
Fish Mid-Course
***
Sorbet
***
Meat Main Course
***

Dessert
Pork belly
We did get a brief run-down on request, more details promised on serving (and they did indeed do just that). But at the start we’re told dessert is panna cotta. Not overly excited about that! But, knowing the form here, I should have known better. Still, the surprise was all the better.


We had quite a picture, a masterpiece,  on the plate. The Vanilla panna cotta, with a Pistachio topping, was the feature, surrounded by a Raspberry sorbet, Strawberry Espuma, Blueberry meringue (loved these bits), and more bits and pieces including Blackberry. Great to look at and delicious to dispatch. In some places you'd be lucky to get a single raspberry on top of your jar of panna cotta!


We had started too with an espuma, lychée and lime with raspberry powder, an amuse bouche, light and amusing (yes!) to the taste buds, which is the idea of course.

The starter was quite superb: Local Rare Breed Pork Belly, with Black Pudding & Black Pudding Dumpling, with Apple purée, Cider, Crackling Popcorn and Celeriac Slaw. An excellent combination of tastes and flavours though the popcorn didn't do anything for me. On the other hand, CL had a different opinion!
Salmon
Salmon is always good here and so it was with the Fish course: Cured Salmon & Smoked Salmon Rillettes, with Orange, Fennel, Pickled Sea veg, Squid Ink Aioli and Wasabi Mayo. The pickle was well judged and added to the other elements of the dish.

Time then for a little rest and our Mango and Lime Sorbet, Vodka infused on finely cut Lemon rind. Pleased and cleansed the palate all at once.

Slow braised beef is a long standing speciality here and that was next on the agenda. The shoulder was cooked for 16 hours and served with Ballyhoura mushrooms, samphire, beetroot purée and pickled, tender stemmed broccoli, lentils and a red wine jus. A superb main course indeed. And then came that gorgeous finalé!

Greene’s also have an excellent wine choice and, on the night, we enjoyed Domaine de Bousquet, an organic Malbec,  (Argentina, at €7.50 a glass) and Conviviale Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (Italy, at €6.95).

The restaurant has quite a few menus, including a great value Early Bird / Pre-Theatre (the Everyman is just across the street) for €32.50 for three courses. There are a number of tasting menus along with Table de Hote and A La Carte and you may check them all out here.

It is a very comfortable restaurant with a warm welcome and friendly and efficient service from start to finish. And a terrific chef, of course! Let him surprise you!
Waterfall
Greene’s Restaurant
48 MacCurtain Street
Cork.
Please call 021 455 2279 (phone preferred for reservations
For bookings by email please send your enquiry to info@greenesrestaurant.com

Opening Times


Monday
Lunch - Closed
Dinner - 5.30pm - 9:00pm
Tuesday
Lunch - Closed
Dinner - 5.30pm - 9:30pm
Wednesday
Lunch - Closed
Dinner - 5.30pm - 9:30pm
Thursday
Lunch - 12.30-2.30pm
Dinner - 5.30pm - 9:30pm
Friday
Lunch - 12.30-2.30pm
Dinner - 5.30pm - 10pm
Saturday
Lunch - 12.30-2.30pm
Dinner - 5.30pm - 10pm
Sunday
Lunch - 12.30-2.30pm
Dinner - 5.30pm - 9:00pm

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