Monday, December 6, 2010

BORDEAUX v BERGERAC

THE NEXT DOOR NEIGHBOURS: BERGERAC v BORDEAUX
Chateau Laulerie

Over the years Bergerac winemakers have been overshadowed by those of neighbour Bordeaux. When talking up an underdog, it does no harm if you have a couple of heavyweights in your corner. I have.

Hugh Johnson: Bergerac is a good value Bordeaux lookalike.
Robert Joseph: The second class status of Bergerac today owes more to the efforts of Bordeaux merchants to discriminate against it than to the quality of its wines.

Maybe then we should look at Bergerac wines more often and, in fairness, quite a few of our independent wine importers do their bit but are up against the long standing big names of Bordeaux and as we know the big names are usually the big sellers.

As you may guess, I like my Bergeracs, including local stars such as Pecharmant reds and the high class desserts wines of Monbazillac and Saussignac. But there is an opening in the ordinary entry level wines from Bergerac as often your basic Bergerac is better than the basic Bordeaux. Certainly as good.

I enjoyed a couple recently.
Chateau Laulerie, Bergerac 2006 (Merlot-Malbec-Cabernet Franc) 12.5%, 12 months in oak, including six in new oak. Deep red in colour and a promising fruity nose. On the palate it is fruity enough (plums) and reasonably well balanced; it is medium bodied with discreet tannins and a longish finish. PR: 85.
Chateau La Sabatiere Bergerac 2007 (Merlot – Cabernet) Louis Roche Collection bottled at Chateau Monbazillac, 12%. Ruby coloured with red fruit on the nose. It is juicy and slightly spicy, medium bodied and smooth with soft rich tannins and a reasonably long finish. PR: 82


A few days earlier, I tasted a 2006 Claret and a Superieur from the same year and then a 2004 Superieur (from Chateu Meaume, Reserve du Chateau), all Bordeaux. The first two were reasonable wines and the third had more to offer and was possibly on a par with the Bergerac Laulerie.


So if these entry level wines are of much the same standard, what is the incentive for the consumer to switch to Bergerac? The answer to that should be lower prices as Bergerac doesn't command the same level as Bordeaux. So watch out for Bergerac reds (and the whites also) and you should save yourself a few euro without sacrificing quality.

Got my Chateau Laulerie on Brittany Ferries on the way home from the Bergerac area where I had purchased the La Sabatiere (in the boutique at Chateau Monbazillac, a recommended visit if you are in the area). I don’t have a full list of local stockists but know that Karwig Wines and Red Nose Wines carry some Bergerac  wines.

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