Irish Malt and Brewers Best in World

Fergal of Dublin City

Irish Malt and Brewers

 Best in World

BeoirFest 20.03.2021

Lager and Red Ale

It didn’t quite show on the screen but Craft Bear’s Phil must have been blushing during the recent Online event organised by Brian of BeoirFest. Lager and Red Ale were the subjects discussed and when Phil’s Red Ale “Bimbos” came up for tasting, the other two dished out the highest possible praise.

Dublin City’s experienced Fergal and Brendan of Four Provinces combined in the gush: “ ..gorgeous.. great beer..amazing.. doesn’t taste like 8%, it’s got the body, it’s got the velvet texture”. There was a suggestion that this stunning beer could be even better with longer conditioning.

Phil, who admitted his beer names are “a bit out there”, said he created it in August. “I latched onto Cashmere.......... there is very little bittering............and the conditioning is 7 weeks.” Earlier Phil told us he started brewing properly in 2018. Before that it was just a hobby. The transition was quick and something of a roller coaster. “The hobby got out of control and before I knew it I was head over heels - in debt! But the results in the kitchen were good and getting better. I got a tap at a wedding and that was a good indicator. Did an IPA first, a West Coast style. I gave it a right go and it became very popular, so popular it tied us up for a full year.”

Just highlighting the praise for Bimbos there, as quite often Irish brewers are somewhat shy in pushing their own beers and breweries. Fergal, who has worldwide experience, said we should be proud of our brewers. “We’re as good as any market in the world, outstanding. And I have judged around the world.” And still there was some frustration in his remarks. “We can make the best beers on the planet but we can’t get in the door here because of the system.”

Funnily enough, Fergal had great praise for the brewers in James Gate. “I got great training in James Gate, the Harvard of beer.” And Brendan too acknowledged that mainstream brewers and beers have their place. “In our pub, we do our best to support all local brewers and distillers. You do need them to lure customers in and they’ll move to craft but they won’t start with craft. You also need to have a beer similar to what they are used to drinking.”  

Brendan

I myself saw much the same going on when the local pub Cotton Ball began brewing and earlier in places like Franciscan Well and Brewhaus - but you do need to have your staff trained to help customers take that first and crucial step.

Fergal said we have a supply of the greatest malt here. “You don’t have to compare yourself with Munich, Prague, or Denmark. I make two of the best lagers in the world here (and he is prepared to prove it in any head to head!). With the greatest malt here and the best brewers, make your own lager and call it Irish Lager.”

Moderator Brian O’Connell ventured that “lagers don’t get the respect they deserve” and asked why. Brendan suggested that “lagers are associated with the past, a period when there wasn’t much of a choice”.

Next session, today 3rd April 3.00pm

Dublin City’s lager, Liberator, was now being sipped. Fergal: “Liberator is a light lager, hard to do, all the things that can go wrong. But this is simply to satisfy your thirst on a summer’s day in the garden, a session drink, a sit back and relax one, refreshing with a tiny hop character to balance.”

Lagers are like that in general, have two or three and enjoy the atmosphere. “Brewing is finding out what your customers want”. And he repeated what I heard a few years back from Eoin Lynch of the Cotton Ball, that seven of ten drinks consumed are lager. Eoin took his own advice of course!

Four Provinces

Brendan of Four Provinces: “Our lager was the one that sold, nothing wrong with that (not that anyone challenged him!). To be honest, I’m more comfortable with our lager and putting out the odd IPA. People can be easily persuaded to drink our lager.”

And Fergal agreed: “You don’t have to do something extra special but you gotta have the one that delivers the money. Then, once a year, throw out a seasonal or a special.”

Moderator Brian asked about IPAs and hops and queried if there’s a little niche there that talks to itself. Can that be a bit off-putting to potential drinkers of craft? Phil did agree there was  a certain fashion in hops, that they have their season, that Cashmere for instance was all the rage in the months before Christmas. But “it’s great to see labels with fuller descriptions to encourage people to know their beers.”

Fergal urged “..be a bit cautious and careful. Exotic drinks sound great but may not sell. And Brendan emphasised that the margins on IPAs are significantly lower. Phil pointed out that lager is harder to make and takes longer while Fergal pointed out that “stout is never easy to do”. 

Three straight-talking brewers shared their insights and kept us well informed throughout the hour or so. A session on cider today (3rd April) and then the next event on beorifest.com is April 10th with Lineman, Killarney Brewing and Bullhouse.

Spring at Blarney Castle Gardens

Spring at Blarney Castle Gardens

31st March 2021

The Ice-House, and wild garlic

The walled garden

Highly Recommended Wines from The Rhone and The Danube

Highly Recommended Wines from 

The Rhone and The Danube

We've got two lovely wines for you, red from the Rhone and white from the Danube. Organic wine-maker Jacques Frelin has vineyards all over France from the Languedoc (where he is headquartered) to the Loire. The Diwald vineyard is about 20 minutes from the Danube; they have been pioneers in organic wine in Austria and are well-known for their Grüner Veltliner.

Contrefort du Delta Côtes du Rhône (AOP) 2018, 14%

€15.62 - Widely available, Fields Supervalu, Skibbereen; Scally’s Supervalu, Clonakilty; Organico, Bantry; Taste, Castletownbere; Quay Co-Op, Cork; Bridge St. Kenmare; O'Donovan's Off Licence; The Grainey, Scarriff; The Connemara Hamper, Clifden, Mary Pawle Wines. 

Colour  of this C-d-R is ruby, slightly lighter towards the rim. Aromas are not shy and speak strongly of soft red fruit. And that pleasing red fruit is found in the soft and velvety mouth, a confident true expression of the grapes and the region, with round tannins and a persistent aftertaste. Highly Recommended.

The label is brief but gives quite a lot of info: No sulphites. Organic wine. Produced by Jacques Frelin. Well rounded and aromas of red fruit. Matches well with red meat, spaghetti Bolognese or cheese. Serve at 18 degrees.

Frelin, whose company is called Terroirs Vivants has, for over thirty years now, been at the forefront of the organic wine movement in France. While organic is often associated with small, this is not the case with Frelin who has vineyards all over the country, in the Languedoc (where he is headquartered), in Bordeaux, in Gascony, in the Rhone and Provence and the Loire.

Many of the wines reviewed on this blog are organic and I often take for granted that everyone knows what organic is. Just in case you don’t, here’a a pretty good definition from the producer website:

Organic wine is made from organically grown grapes in accordance with the rules of organic farming, which specifically excludes the use of artificial chemical fertilisers and pesticides.

The winemaking process must then comply to European regulations, which limit the use of SO2, ban certain physical processes and insist on the use of organically-sourced materials. All organic producers are audited each year by an independent body, which makes the European organic logo a trustworthy seal.

Diwald Grüner Veltliner Alte Weingärten Wagram 2014, 13%  

€27.00 - Organico, Bantry; Mary Pawle Wines.

Light straw, with a touch of green, is the colour of this 2014 Grüner. Spice notes in the aromas, white pepper and rocket. Vivacious on the palate where’ll you again meet the spice, also fresh flavours of apples and pears. Complex, elegant and precise and Highly Recommended.

Mary Pawle: “These vines are about 30-40 years old and the grapes are harvested in November. Would work very well with roast pork or asparagus”.

The Diwalds (Paula and Hans) are pioneers of organic wine-growing in Austria (1980), with their roots in the region of Wagram, and the younger generation is now running the show. The Alte Weingarten is Martin Diwald's top Grüner from the oldest vineyard in the village. Painstaking selection of the best grapes all the way into October pays off with this gem.

Today, the Diwald wine style follows a simple credo: the wines – whether white, red, rosé, orange or cloudy – should be lean, elegant and cheeky, but still offer depth and body. They are individual wines which speak to our – and your – taste buds…. this Gru-Vee is just one example. By the way, their other wines from this grape are also excellent and Mary Pawle has quite a few on her list.

A Quart of Ale± #43 On the craft journey. Illustrating German Lagers.

A Quart of Ale± #43

On the craft journey. Illustrating German Lagers.

Veltins Grevensteiner Naturtrübes Helles, 5.2%, 500ml bottle via Bradleys

Pale gold is the colour of this Helles, a lager associated with the Munich area.  Head is very short-lived (they claim a “stable” head but not from this bottle) and the effervescence is barely noticeable - it is unfiltered. Aromas are mild and malty. This rather lightweight Helles is fruity and fresh on the palate, well-balanced and easy-drinking, a pleasing but hardly outstanding quaffer.

The Helles (which means pale) is a cool, refreshing, everyday beer that pairs well with salads, shrimp, or fish. Like the Dunkel, Munich Helles usually falls in the range of 4%- to 6% ABV, making it a nice session beer for a warm day.

They say: Brothers Carl and Anton Veltins brewed an enjoyable light Grevensteiner for special occasions - mild, light to drink and, as was customary at the time, naturally cloudy. With its fruity and fresh note and a fine malt aroma, Grevensteiner Hell is harmoniously rounded off in taste.

The history of the Veltins goes back close to 200 years and quite a few Germany brewers go back further than that. Some of these breweries are quite large now. 

What of craft beer in the country? According to the latest World Atlas of Beer “the notion of craft beer has arrived and is fair buzzing in Berlin and Hamburg, but elsewhere such beers are thinner on the ground.” It seems the vast majority of German brewers, both big and small, continue to make reliable, local versions of familiar styles. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

Klosterbrau Weißenohe Glocken Hell, 5.0%, 500ml bottle via Bradleys

Poured this into a tall-ish glass (Metalman) at quite a rate and got myself a good head, three-fingers, as a result. Millions of bubbles rise rapidly through the clear amber liquid. Floral and slightly spicy notes from the aromas. Elegant and finely spicy on the palate, a touch of malty sweetness too and, of course, no shortage of refreshment.

Just the job at the end of the day! When the evening bell tolls, have a pint. Was reading the label, with the help of Google translate. 

“Then as now, the sound of the Weissenoher church tower not only announces moments of prayer and contemplation. It also determines the mundane daily rhythm. … One of the nicest moments of the day is surely the end of the day. Ring in your evening with our Glocken Hell.”

From a Benedictine cloister to a cloister brewery – that was just a small step to take for the friars of Weißenohe. The Kloster Brewery was founded around 1050. According to the Beer Handbook, it has three beers that you should look out for. One is the signature Altfränkisch Klosterbier, the second is Eucharius Märzan and the third is Bonator Dopplebock (pretty sure I have that in my queue). 

Rothaus Märzen, 5.6%, 500ml bottle via Bradley

Give this German a robust pour and you’ll get a decent white head that hangs around for a spell. The important bit comes after that, the light gold body and the zillions of micro-bubbles in the ever-rising fountains. Herbs crowd the aromas, nothing too intense. The smooth body is more malt (rich and bready) than hops with a fruit input in between and a mild tartness. Quite a balanced beer actually, easy drinking, an enjoyable companion at either lunch or dinner.

So where did Marzen come from? Beers of this type of brewing are traditionally more heavily brewed, as brewing was only allowed in the months from September to April. A beer with a longer shelf life was thus produced in March, which also survived the five months without a brewing process and was produced just in time for Octoberfest.

According to the Beer Connoisseur, the Märzen style is a malty, amber, European-style lager that can trace the roots of its modern variants all the way back to 1841, when Spaten created the first recipe for the style. Märzen become the official beer of Munich’s Oktoberfest in 1872, a tradition that lasted over 100 years when it was replaced by the lighter-bodied, golden-colored Festbier in the 1990 Oktoberfest. Yet many Oktoberfest beers are still technically Märzens.

It is a full-bodied, luscious beer with the unique barley malt from southern Germany bolstering its character. Fresh brewing water as well as the famous hops from Tettnang and the Hallertau make the taste experience more or less perfect. So well done to the Rothaus master brewers who have produced a top class beer that has been a favourite for decades.

Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Märzen, 5.1%, 500ml bottle via Bradleys

This original smoked beer, now regarded as a classic, has been Bamberg's specialty for centuries. A dark bottom fermented lager beer, brewed with 100% smoked malt from the Schlenkerla maltings.

Black is the colour with a soft cream/coffee coloured head that stays around for a spell. Must admit I’d been expecting to find the smoke in the aromas but is is much more striking in the flavours, a kind of unrelenting smoky bacon. A dark bottom-fermented lager beer, brewed with 100% smoked malt from the Schlenkerla maltings. The brewery is also a maltster.

The Story: Schlenkerla smoked malt is kilned directly over an open wood fire. The smoke from this fire penetrates the malt and gives it its unique smoky flavour. Until the invention of modern malting systems in the 17th and 18th century with heat exchangers running on coal, oil or gas, smoke kilns were THE standard. As the new industrial form of malting was much more cost efficient, the smoke kilns everywhere were closed down. Not so at Schlenkerla!

Indeed,  Slow Food® has made Schlenkerla Rauchbier a passenger in its “Ark of Taste”.

Kegworks say Rauchbier will generally have a light copper to dark brown colour with an ABV of around 5-6%. The aroma and taste will have a combination of smokey and malty flavours to it.

Bamberg is, surprisingly, one of the top brewing cities in Germany, synonymous with Rauchbier. Beer FAQ says our Rauchbier is the one with which most been enthusiasts worldwide are familiar. “The brewery..traces production back to 1405…still taps the traditional brew from wooden barrels”. Sounds like a place to visit for sure. Don’t like smoky? Don’t worry they have a brewery here for every 8,000 people and you may sample multiple beer styles.

German lager types

“Pils” may be Germany’s most well-known lager. Aromatic, crisp and moderately bitter it is refreshing and a terrific session beer.

Maibock is the spring beer (Mai = May). Hops and malts get a turn here. Quite versatile at the table with pasta dishes, salmon, or shellfish recommended.

Märzen has traditionally been brewed in March to be enjoyed at festivals starting in September. Again, there’s usually a good balance between malts and hops and you can enjoy it at Oktobertfest with the schnitzel, brockwurst and game.

Helles can be easily found in Munich, its crisp finish similar to Pils. Cool and refreshing, this everyday beer goes well with salads, shrimp, or fish, an excellent session beer.

There are quite a few other types including Rauchbier (see the Schlenkerla above). And our own Whiplash have a terrific Black lager, appearing soon in The Quart. You'll also come across Kolsch which is a hybrid, meaning that its producers employ elements and techniques of both lager and ale.

How To Pour A German Lager From A Bottle*

1. Tilt the glass or stein at a 45 degree angle.

2. Place the tip of the bottle in the glass, and pour the beer quickly down the side.

3. Start to straighten the glass as the beer reaches the top to create a nice head of foam.

* from kegworks.com 

Cheers on Beer, Spirits and Wine. With Lineman, Beoirfest, White Hag, Wines of the World, Bertha's Revenge, The Corkscrew, O'Briens Wine.

Cheers on Beer, Spirits and Wine.

With Lineman, Beoirfest, White Hag, Wines of the World, Bertha's Revenge, The Corkscrew, O'Briens Wine

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LINEMAN'S ELECTRIC AVENUE #2 IS HERE!

Sounds great.

This week sees our second beer in the Electric Avenue series available in retailers across the land. We went with a pale ale this time hopped with Talus and Hallertau Blanc. It's a deliciously crisp refreshing blast of bitter orange and green fruit with a floral vanilla finish.

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Starting on April 3 we have 3 weeks of great sessions, followed by a 2-week special event.

April 3 we're focusing on Cider and will have Stonewell, Legacy and Tempted to come and talk. Craft cider doesn't have the same market or get the same attention as beer but it's been going through a renewal as well so this should be good.

April 10 we have Lineman, Bullhouse and Killarney taking part. 3 great breweries who have different markets and experiences, this should lead to some good chat.

April 17 is something different as Dundalk/Brewmaster and Trouble (making a welcome return) will be joined by Peak Beer from Belgium. This should be the start of a number of international chats and it'll be really interesting to see the differences in markets, tastes and experiences.

And then we have our special event!

If you've been paying attention to brewing you'll have seen kviek yeast come to prominence in the last couple of years. In one way it's the biggest innovation in brewing for years, but it's using some of the oldest traditional yeast strains still around.

This came to prominence thanks to Lars Marius Garshol, a Norwegian programmer with a passion for traditional brewing methods. His blog and book brought traditional methods and yeasts to a wider world.

Lithuania is a country that Lars identified as having a unique brewing culture. One they've managed to preserve. Throughout the country you can buy traditional farmhouse beers such as Kaimiškas, Tamsusis, Šviesusis, and Keptinis. Brewed using unique yeasts, malts and techniques, these are like no beer you've ever tasted.

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White Hag's New England IPA Gets Bigger

Great news for our Atlantean lovers...  Our Atlantean New England IPA has gotten a new suit of armour, graduating to our 440ml range. In this creamy and cloudy IPA we use copious amounts of American hops to add a big, juicy fruit punch. Oats and lactose add a rich creaminess that subdues the bitterness, making this beer similar to a hopshake. Drink this beer as fresh as possible, when all the Alpha & Beta oils from the hops are the most powerful. This is available to buy online now (both full cases and mixed cases available). The first ten customer to add a case of Atlantean and an Atlantean snood to their basket and use the code 'FreeSnoodBenny' will get a free Atlantean snood.

Buy Now ********* The Fat Bastard Case Deal Is Back!!! Have you tried The Fat Bastard wine collection from France? We believe it is the best value deal with Wines Of The World,  a case with a mix of wines to suit everyone. 6 bottles of wine all of a different variety. Click here for more details. ********* Silver for Ballyvolane Spirits Bertha's Revenge Gin and Sloe Bertha Gin at the World Gin Awards 2021 We are chuffed to bits that Bertha’s Revenge Gin and Sloe Bertha both won Silver at the World Gin Awards 2021.  We are proud, delighted and we will celebrate this news.  Thank you! Bethany Whymark, editor of Gin Magazine, said: “Now is a wonderful time to be working in the world of gin, and we are proud to be able to celebrate the industry’s best through our awards – which were presented in a virtual format for the first time ever in 2021.” “Those in the gin industry have demonstrated an incredible resilience and a great deal of compassion over the past year, helping not only their own businesses but those of others to survive and flourish in challenging circumstances.  Their efforts should be commended.” https://ballyvolanespirits.ie/ ********** Organic Easter Treats Case Birthday Offers and more from  The Corkscrew ********** The O'Briens Gin Sale Now On Get the lowdown right here! *********

Enhancing The National Treasure That Is Hederman's Smoked Salmon. New Recipes. New Dishes.

Enhancing The National Treasure That Is Hederman's Smoked Salmon.

New Recipes. New Dishes.

Hot Smoked Salmon Tart

Frank Hederman’s smoked salmon is a national treasure, certainly more so than those curried chips in the advert that keeps popping up on TV these days.

Smoking fish is a relatively simple process. Put an experienced maestro (he started in 1985) in charge and the results are simply superb. It’s all about time, timing and touch. But you can’t put a timer on it. “You know when it’s done by feel,” says Frank.

And his smoked fish (and other products) are very popular indeed. But sometimes we take it for granted. Shove it on to the brown bread, mix it into the scrambled egg. Great but it can be so much better.

Frank and his wife Caroline have been showing us how for quite a while now, selling prepared dishes (which highlight the fish) at their various outlets. You may have Smoked Salmon Paté, Smoked Mackerel Crush, Smoked Butter, Smoked Chilli Flakes and more!

And now there’s even more help to get the most from this treasure. Friends and collaborators of the Hedermans have been recruited and you can find a tempting gallery of recipes featuring suggestions from Clare McQuillan, Colm O’Gorman, Darren Kennedy and William J. Cooper.

Hot Smoked Salmon, Fennel Seeds and Potato Gratin (right) with Hake

A few days back, we got a gift box from Frank and Caroline of Hot Smoked Salmon, Smoked Paprika, along with a Hot Smoked Salmon, Fennel Seeds and Potato Gratin to try. Aside from the paprika, they didn’t too last long!

We started with the Gratin which you may buy at their various outlets (also via Neighbourfood). It  consists of layers of finely sliced potatoes, cooked with poached and hot smoked organic Irish salmon, smoked chilli flakes and herb cream. 

They bill it as an indulgent main course for one “or you could share and have it as a side with a piece of grilled fish, and a dressed salad”. We took the latter course, added the salad and some hake. The result was a delight, the fish enhanced by the spicy flavours of the gratin. A lovely treat on a wet Saturday evening along with a bottle of Pinot Blanc from the Alsace.

A day or two later, we looked at the gallery of recipes and choose the Smoked Salmon Tart by Clare McQuillan. We didn’t have the sea veg handy but did have some spinach (via NeighbourFood), a few baby leaves of last year’s Kale in the garden and also a few leaves of Wild Garlic from another corner of the garden.

Other than that, the official blog chef followed the recipe and we had a terrific meal with the generous amount of smoked salmon the star. You can see the full recipe here.  

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We’ll be looking at Hederman’s produce in a different way in the period ahead, getting even more out of this treasure on our doorstep!