Friday, April 26, 2024

A Hospitality Symposium : Topic - mental health and gender challenges in commercial kitchens

 A Hospitality Symposium


 A Hospitality Symposium : Topic - mental health and gender challenges in commercial kitchens will be held in University of Galway on the 15th of May. 10am-2pm (Networking coffees from 9am and a light lunch after the event).

 

Deirdre Curran (UOG) is hosting the day and Dr Shelagh Mooney from University of Auckland who also represents Global Hospitality and Research Alliance is the keynote speaker.

 

Hopefully some interesting and thought-provoking discussions will be had on the day.

 

See link to register and there is also a QR code on the flier to register.  Register here!: Topic - mental health and gender challenges in commercial kitchens will be held in University of Galway on the 15th of May. 10am-2pm (Networking coffees from 9am and a light lunch after the event).

 

Deirdre Curran (UOG) is hosting the day and Dr Shelagh Mooney from University of Auckland who also represents Global Hospitality and Research Alliance is the keynote speaker.

 

Hopefully some interesting and thought-provoking discussions will be had on the day.

 

See link to register and there is also a QR code on the flier to register.  Register here!

The perfect lighter red if you want a smooth and not too heavy Italian. Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano



Avignonesi  Rosso di Montepulciano (DOC) 2019

€25.00 Bubble Brothers. ABV is 13.5%

The perfect lighter red if you want a smooth and not too heavy Italian.

This light ruby Rosso di Montepulciano introduces itself with red and darker berries aromas. It is well-balanced on the palate, lively and smooth, fruity with a touch of spice.  A lively acidity also features as the wine heads towards a pleasant finish. Pretty faultless from start to finalé, this vibrant and approachable red wine from Tuscany is Very Highly Recommended.


As importers and sellers Bubble Brothers say: “This is the perfect lighter red to choose if you're looking for something Italian that's smooth and a little spicy, but not too heavy.” It is one hundred per cent Sangiovese and is also organic. It pairs well with roast meats, meat pies, and strong cheeses.



The wine is aged for nine months in large oak barrels before bottling and then rested for a further three months in the bottle before release.


Avignonesi, founded in 1974, is a leading winery in the Montepulciano area of Tuscany and enjoys a prestigious reputation in the winr world. They are obviously happy with this Rosso: “With its abundant, upfront fruit and bright acidity, Avignonesi’s Rosso di Montepulciano is a typical example of Sangiovese from Tuscany.”


Avignonesi were one of the driving forces as Montepulciano began to gain momentum in the eighties, according to Vino Italiano. The family may well have made Montepulciano famous  (they are very proud of their own Sangiovese clone) but their most sought-after wine is probably their Vino Santo. This luscious sweet, and expensive, vino is also available from Bubble Brothers.  


This post is the first in a series of Italian wines produced by usually small or medium-sized wineries, are organic and made from native grapes. Taking some “guidance” here from the recently published VINO. Mightn’t always net the hat trick but hope to score two from the three each time. I have quite a few lined up but I’m happy to consider any suggestions or help. #OrganicItaly


  • Montepulciano is both a town and a grape, which naturally leads to confusion. The Montepulciano grape is used in the wines known as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. As you’ve seen above, the grape in our Tuscan Rosso is Sangiovese. Abruzzo is in the east of Italy, Tuscany in the west.

From gill-to-fin, Aishling Moore has the Whole Catch covered in her new book

Red Gurnard and, below, on the plate at Goldie.




 

A blue and white poster with a tail and white text

Description automatically generated#10 WHOLE CATCH

Aishling Moore

Blasta Books

Published 25th April, £13/€15

#10: WHOLE CATCH introduces you to pioneering young chef Aishling Moore, one of Ireland’s biggest advocates for regenerative aquaculture and a promoter of the gill-to-fin approach.

 


At 24 years old, Aishling opened Goldie, a seafood bistro in Cork. In just two years, Aishling gained the restaurant a Michelin Bib Gourmand, among many other awards - most recently Food & Wine’s Chef of the Year 2023.

Aishling in Ballycotton


The name of the restaurant is a nod to the much loved ‘Goldie’ fish-shaped weathervane that sits on top of the famous Shandon Bells at the ancient St Anne’s church in Shandon, just north of the city centre.   The weathervane symbolises the historical importance of fishing to Cork.


As well as taking the whole catch, Goldie operates a ‘gill to tail approach’, using as much of the fish as possible.  Some of the most notable dishes are fish spines served with house togarashi, made with hops from Elbow Lane’s brewery and Pollock collar Teryaki.  The ultimate aim is to utilise as much of the fish as possible, with an emphasis on serving parts that are usually discarded.

Catch

 

Cooking only what the boats bring in that day, Aishling’s approach to using the WHOLE CATCH has gained her a loyal customer following, taught her how to plan a well-stocked larder in the event of bad weather, and be resourceful when it comes to foraging from the seabed. Without complicated techniques, expensive equipment, or unfamiliar fish, Aishling will inspire readers to attempt recognisable dishes that make the most of the whole fish. Try Goldie’s famous fish trim nuggetsbuttermilk fried tailskaraage hakeshime-style marinated cuts and mussel escabeche to make ahead and store in the fridge.


Alongside step-by-step instructions, buying and storage tips, Aishling introduces clear ways to clean, prepare and cook commonly found flat fish, round fish, shellfish, even tinned fish (!), converting even the wariest and novice cook into a confident seafood handler.

Sardines at Goldie


ABOUT THE AUTHOR:

 

Aishling Moore is one of Ireland’s most exciting young chefs. Her fish restaurant, Goldie, has pioneered gill-to-fin cooking in Ireland. In 2019, Aishling was named Chef of the Year by John and Sally McKenna. Goldie achieved Michelin Bib Gourmand status in 2021 and in 2022 was awarded Best Casual Dining in Ireland 2022 by both Food & Wine Magazine and the Restaurant Association of Ireland. In 2023, Aishling was named Young Chef of the Year in the Food & Wine Awards and became deputy head of the Euro-Toques Ireland Food Council, an organisation that endeavours to preserve Irish culinary heritage by supporting traditional cooking methods and promoting producers of local and seasonal artisan products. 


To keep up to date with here follow @aishlingmoore

 





Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary

Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary 

Day 1

Smoked Haddock Beignets with Crab Mayonnaise and Pickled Cucumber at Nua Vista 

Beautiful ware by Ross Kenmare


We had three days or so to check out the eating and drinking scene in the Kingdom. Well, more like in Killarney and Kenmare. It would take much more than three days to sample the full county!


Headed off from Cork for Kenmare on a good enough day. The "new" driver made excellent progress, aided no end by the completed Macroom by-pass. Soon, we turned onto the Kilgravan road and arrived in Kenmare.

Killarney Brewing and Distillery in Fossa.



First stop was the Nua Vista restaurant at the Ring of Kerry Golf Club near Templenoe. The restaurant, owned and managed by the Sheen Falls Hotel, enjoys a fine view over Kenmare Bay as does the golf club. But there were very few around. A shame because the food was excellent. 


The highlight was the Thornhill Confit Duck leg with Sweetcorn, Leeks, and Oyster Mushroom, perfectly cooked and presented. The Smoked Haddock Beignets with Crab Mayonnaise and Pickled Cucumber also fell into that category while the Calamari Rings with Garlic Aioli can also be recommended.

The Ring of Kerry Golf Club is on an elevated site overlooking Kenmare Bay.
Nua Vista is on the first floor - you can spot the outdoor dining area on the balcony.


My favourite salt!
Back in the few miles to Kenmare and heading for Killarney. Had almost passed Molls Gap when I realised that the Avoca shop there is one of the very few stockists of West of Dingle Sea Salt, one of the very best, in the Killarney area. Stocked up with that and our bag of other goodies also included Lady’s Kisses by the West Cork Biscuit Company, plus chocolate from Skelligs and a couple of jars by Janet (Wicklow), one with a Red Pepper Relish, the other with a Ploughman’s Relish.


Time for pause at a busy Torc Waterfall which didn’t disappoint before going out towards Fossa and a call to the impressive Killarney Brewing and Distilling Facility. Disappointment here though! I had been hoping to get a few bottles of their superb Casey Brothers Stout. But they don’t bottle it at all! I had the consolation of getting my hands on a large bottle (75cl) of their Export  Stout and a similar-sized bottle of the well-named Spailpín Fánach Saison along with regular bottles of most of their beers.


We made a quick visit to the Gap of Dunloe before heading back the road to our Aghadoe base, the Killeen House Hotel and Rozzers Restaurant. We settled in there for the evening and had an excellent dinner (including a couple of bottles of the Killarney Blond). More on that visit here.

Gap of Dunloe



Three Days in the Kingdom.  Food Diary

Day 2

Two Albarinos at the Stables.



Our second day started well with a splendid breakfast in Killeens House, highlights being their delightful Spiced Pears to start with and the “mains” of Hake with juicy cherry tomatoes.


Later that morning, we were off on that twisty road to Kenmare again, this time heading for the Sheen Falls Hotel and their new Stables Brasserie. A very impressive brasserie indeed and the food was excellent also. The lunch menu, not surprisingly, was fairly similar to that at Nua Vista. The Thornhill Confit Duck Leg was here also, this time with Savoy Cabbage, Lentils, and Smoked Bacon. Very enjoyable! 

The Stables Brasserie. Classy dining room and, below, the exterior



Quite a wine list included a non-alcoholic Albarino (7.00) by Spain’s Hollow Leg, which was enjoyed by the driver, not bad at all. The alcoholic Porto da Ria Albarino (9.50), with its crisp acidity, citrus fruits with hints of tropical fruits was lively and well-balanced and a long way ahead of its cousin.


After the short spin to see the actual Sheen Falls, we enjoyed a wee walk around the town. Shame to see the likes of Packie’s (latterly Anois) lying idle and also the Purple Heather, another once lively and well-loved venue, up for sale.


Urban Farm
Later on that evening, we enjoyed a very interesting tour of the Killarney Urban Farm, an initiative of the O’Donoghue Ring group, and then moved over to their Killarney Plaza to enjoy the produce from the farm and from their local producers. More on that enjoyable event, including the dinner in the Tan Yard here 

   

Three Days in the Kingdom. Food Diary

Day 3

An Síbín


The day started with a lovely late-ish breakfast at Killeen House and a very short trip up the road to the viewing facility for the spectacular lakes and mountains. It has its own car-park, alongside the Aghadoe Heights Hotel. It didn’t disappoint!

The Reeks, including Carrauntohill from the heights of Aghadoe.

Our next halt was at the National Park, the Muckross House area. Didn’t have that much time but we strolled over to the gardens to see an amazing display of tulips, the best I’ve seen this spring (sorry Blarney).


Tulips in gardens at Muckross House.


Lemon Meringue Pie
at An Síbín
Into Kenmare then and a shortish drive to Lauragh for a lunch stop at An Síbín, situated on the Beara Penisula at the foot of Healy Pass and about halfway between Kenmare and Castletownbere. They serve food all day in a very comfortable room (and outdoors when the sun shines) and also have a few rooms if you want to stay in the area.


It looks like a country pub, a well-maintained one, but there is no beer licence, just one for wine, though you can get a non-alcoholic beer. We fueled up for the return home with a hearty open Castletownbere Crab Sandwich and a large St Tola Goats Cheese Salad. Not to mention a large dessert as well! 


Next, and last, on our trip here was a drive to the top of the magnificent Healy Pass, between Lauragh and Adrigole. We were lucky that the weather was bright and settled and were able to fully enjoy the views.


The nearly two-hour journey back to Cork, via Glengarriffe, Keakil and Crookstown (mostly on the R585) went smoothly as did the whole experience in Kerry. We’ll be back.

Almost home!


Thursday, April 25, 2024

Nine Cork Farmhouse Cheesemakers Honoured At CÁIS 2024. Hegarty’s ‘Templegall’ Retains Title Of ‘Supreme Champion’

Nine Cork Farmhouse Cheesemakers Honoured At CÁIS 2024 Hegarty’s ‘Templegall’ Retains Title Of ‘Supreme Champion’ 

Supreme Champion again for Dan Hegarty (left) with cheese makers Jean-Baptiste Enjelvin
 and Quentin DubozPics by Finbarr O'Rourke

Nine Farmhouse Cheesemakers from across Co. Cork were honoured this week at the 2024 Irish Cheese Awards during a prestigious ceremony hosted by CÁIS, the Association of Irish Farmhouse Cheesemakers, at Kilshane House in Co. Tipperary on Wednesday April 24th. Between them they took home a total of fourteen awards - the most of any county. 

The biennial celebration of Ireland’s farmhouse cheesemakers, now in its tenth year, named winners across seventeen distinct categories, culminating in naming one winner as this year’s ‘Supreme Champion’. This followed a rigorous judging process that was undertaken by a high calibre panel of Irish and international cheese experts at Teagasc’s Ashtown Food Research Centre last month.

Together, the thirteen judges tasted 175 different cheeses produced by forty-three businesses located across the island of Ireland; from Dart Mountain to Durrus, and Arklow to Aillwee Cave. Each cheese was individually scored on aroma, flavour, body, texture, and overall appearance in order to select this year’s worthy winners.


Cork’s Hegarty’s ‘Templegall’ Named Overall ‘Supreme Champion’:

Hegarty’s ‘Templegall Extra Mature’ raw cow’s milk cheese scooped the top award on the day, being named overall ‘Supreme Champion’. This is the second successive ‘Supreme Champion’ win for the Cork-based cheesemaker, having previously taken home the title at the CÁIS 2021 Irish Cheese Awards.

Named after the village of Whitechurch just outside Cork city where it is made - “An Teampall Geal” in Irish - Hegarty’s Templegall Extra Mature is a hard alpine style cheese which has been specially developed by farmer Dan Hegarty with the assistance of French cheesemakers, Jean-Baptiste Enjelvin and Quentin Duboz.

Templegall Extra Mature is made using raw milk from Hegarty’s pedigree Friesian herd, producing an unpasteurised cheese in 40kg wheels that has to be brushed three times a week in order to maintain the rind of the cheese in peak form. The cheese is then aged for a minimum of eighteen months to allow time for it to develop its deliciously complex flavour profile with fruity yet earthy tones, and hints of nuts and straw.

As well as being named ‘Supreme Champion’, this year’s standout cheese was also awarded a Gold in the ‘Raw Milk Cheese’ category, with Hegarty’s rounding off a hugely successful day by picking up a Bronze for their Cheddar Cheese in the ‘Mature Farmhouse Cheddar Aged Over 12 Months’ category.

Templegall Extra Mature is available to purchase online for nationwide delivery via Hegarty Cheese’s website, www.hegartycheese.ie, as well as from leading independent food stores and retailers throughout the island of Ireland.

Commenting on his pride at retaining the ‘Supreme Champion’ title, Dan Hegarty said: "We're absolutely thrilled to have retained the Supreme Champion title. A special mention should go to the 150 cows we have back home who are in for milking at the moment as without them none of this success would be possible. 

What makes our Templegall Extra Mature cheese so special is that we only make it during the summer months, when the cows are grazing outside and at their happiest, with milk produced in the morning. Having complete control over the entire process, from what the cows eat to when we make it, is what allows us to produce such an outstanding cheese.

Only a glass window separates the milking parlour from the cheesemaking room, so the morning milk goes straight from the milking parlour to the cheese vat, which is only maybe four metres away. There's zero food miles attached to what we produce and we're working with the freshest milk possible.

It's a cooked, pressed cheese that's really difficult to make because it's unpasteurised. It might only take us half a morning to make, but then there's a whole year of careful minding to ensure we achieve the quality of the cheese we're looking for."


Other Cork-based Award Winners:

Other notable Cork-based award winners, which were announced by Newstalk’s Bobby Kerr, included Dick & Helene Willems of Coolea Farmhouse Cheese part of the group of original founding members of CÁIS. The pioneering pair were presented with the ‘Lifetime Achievement Award’ by iconic Irish Food Writers, John and Sally McKenna, in recognition of their passion and long-term commitment to their craft. The couple first started making cheese from milk produced on their small farm in the beautiful mountains of Coolea in West Cork back in 1979. 

The Willems’ ‘Matured Coolea’ cheese also gained recognition, winning a Gold in the ‘Mature Hard Cheese Aged Over 6 Months’ category

In reaction to receiving their Lifetime Achievement award, Coolea Farmhouse Cheese’s Dick & Helene Willems said: "We're both extremely grateful and proud of this award, and feel incredibly honoured to have been acknowledged in this way.

As one of the founding members, we're hugely thankful for the opportunities that being a part of the Association over the last 40 years has given us to work with, and for, so many fantastic Farmhouse Cheesemakers all over Ireland. Go raibh míle maith agat, CÁIS."

Other category winning cheese’s (Gold award) included ‘Durrus Cheese’ (in the ‘Washed Rind Cheese - Semi Soft’ category) and Toons Bridge Dairy’s ‘Smoked Scamorza’ (in the ‘Smoked Cheese’ category).

Cork-based 2024 Irish Cheese Award Winners:

Supreme Champion: Hegarty’s Cheese, Whitechurch, Co. Cork - ‘Templegall Extra Mature’

Food Writer, John McKenna (left), presenting the 'Lifetime Achievement' Award to Dick & Helene Willems of Coolea Farmhouse Cheese at the 2024 Irish Cheese Awards. Pics by  Finbarr O'Rourke Photography 


Lifetime Achievement Award:

Dick & Helene Willems: Coolea Farmhouse Cheese


Category Winners (Gold Awards):

Raw Milk Cheese (All Styles and Milk Types): Hegarty’s Cheese, Whitechurch, Co. Cork - ‘Templegall Extra Mature’

Washed Rind Cheese (Semi Soft, All Milk Types): Durrus Cheese, Coomkeen, Co. Cork -  ‘Durrus Cheese’

Smoked Cheese (All Milk Types): Toons Bridge Dairy, Toonsbridge, Co. Cork - ‘Smoked Scamorza’

Mature Hard Cheese Aged Over 6 Months (All Milk Types): Coolea Farmhouse Cheese, Coolea, Co. Cork - ‘Coolea Matured’


Silver Awards:

Washed Rind Cheese (Semi-Soft, All Milk Types): Durrus Cheese, Coomkeen, Co. Cork - ‘Durrus Óg’

Fresh/Soft Cheese (Buffalo, Cow, Sheep, Mixed Milk): Macroom Buffalo Cheese, Macroom, Co. Cork - ‘Macroom Bocconcini’

Soft Cheese (Flavour Added): Dottie & Dora, Donoughmore, Co. Cork - ‘Dottie and Dora Soft Goat Cheese (Peppercorn)’


Bronze Awards:

Fresh/Soft Cheese (Buffalo, Cow, Sheep, Mixed Milk): Macroom Buffalo Cheese, Macroom, Co. Cork - ‘Buffalo Mozzarella’

Soft Cheese (Flavour Added): Ardsallagh Farmhouse Cheese, Carrigtohill, Co. Cork - ‘Ardsallagh Cranberry Roulade’

Washed Rind Cheese (Semi-Soft, All Milk Types): Milleens Cheese, Beara. Co. Cork - ‘Milleens’

Hard Cheese Flavour Added): Carrigaline Farmhouse Cheese, Carrigaline. Co. Cork - ‘Dillisk Seaweed Cheese’

Mature Farmhouse Cheddar Aged Over 12 Months (All Milk Types): Hegarty’s Cheese, Whitechurch. Co. Cork - ‘Hegarty's Cheddar’


Retailer Awards

Also proudly representing Co. Cork in the Retailer’s section of the 2024 Irish Cheese Awards were Bandon Vale Farmhouse Cheese Company, whose ‘Vintage Red Cheddar’ won a Gold for SuperValu Signature Tastes in the ‘Cheddars Retail & Creamery’ category.

In the same section, another of Bandon Vale Farmhouse Cheese Company’s cheeses, ‘Extra Mature Drinagh Cheddar’, scooped a Bronze for Dunnes Stores Simply Better, with Aldi Ardagh Additions’ ‘Black Pepper Flavoured Cheddar Slices’, produced for them by Carbery Group, picking up the Silver.

Dunnes Stores Simply Better were also awarded a Silver for Coolea Farmhouse Cheese’s ‘Coolea Mature’ Cheese in the ‘Semi Hard/Hard Cheese’ category.

Gubbeen Farmhouse Cheese’s ‘Gubbeen Cheese’ secured a Silver award for SuperValu Signature Tastes in the ‘Soft/Semi-Soft Cheese’ Retailer’s category. 

And, West Cork Creamery’s cheese, ‘Bookers Vintage’, landed Sheridans Cheesemongers a Bronze in the Retailer’s ‘Exclusive Cheeses’ category.


The full list of this year’s winners covering all Gold, Silver, and Bronze Awards is available to view online via the CÁIS website, www.irishcheese.ie.