Amuse Bouche

Dinner, with the queen, could be an ordeal. The simple meal - soup, fish, cold beef and the cream puddings of which Victoria was particularly fond - began at 9 and usually lasted precisely thirty minutes. The queen was served first and gobbled her food. Slow eaters, such as Gladstone, who was said to chew every mouthful thirty-three times, found their plates snatched away by the servants when they had barely begun.

from Victoria by Jane Ridley

Grey’s Lane Bistro. Sign of a Good Meal!

Grey’s Lane Bistro. 
Sign of a Good Meal!

Looking for good food in Dingle? Here are the directions. Walk up Green Street, until you spot the Little Cheese Shop on your right. Turn right into the lane and right next door you’ll see Grey’s Lane Bistro*. Your search is over. And your enjoyment is about to begin. And that enjoyment will sometimes be enhanced by a little night music.

The town was buzzing during the food festival last weekend so I took the precaution of making an early booking. Grey’s Lane is popular and soon we saw why, on our plates! They have a great value Early Bird here but, since it was festival time, we picked from the A La Carte.

We had a lovely meal and were not inclined to go for dessert. But when the board came and we saw the Tuscan Plum Tart, resistance was low. Okay, we’ll share one. But, a bite or two later, and a second tart was ordered!

Smoked mackerel is appearing regularly on menus but hard to beat the way it came in my starter: Grilled smoked mackerel fillets with orange tabbouleh and salad. The grilled fish was so well matched with the lively tabbouleh and the salad itself was just gorgeously dressed. Much the same salad appeared also in the other starter:  Beetroot goats cheese and candied walnut salad, another delightful plate.

CL picked the Char-grilled breast of corn fed chicken, with Annascaul Black Pudding, chorizo and leek velouté, potatoes and vegetables, as her main plate and she did well. The flavour of the chicken was impeccable, the pudding added to the whole and the velouté, in its own little dish, was a gem.

Baked Cod with black olive tapenade and ratatouille was my mains and I was very happy by the time I'd finished it, every little bit. The fish was so white, moist and delicate, the tapenade, not bullying the flavours of the fish, was its perfect companion, and the ratatouille too was spot on.

Starters (left) and Mains

All the while we were sipping from a Moko Black Sauvignon blanc from New Zealand, full of the freshness and flavours that are typical of the Marlborough region. The wine list is not the longest but it covers most grapes and countries and they also have a selection of craft beers along with a range of non alcoholic drinks.

Grey's Lane Bistro

+ 353 (0)66 915 2770

Grey's Lane Bistro,

Grey's Lane,

Dingle,

Co Kerry

laurence@greyslanebistro.com

http://www.greyslanebistro.com

Twitter: @greyslanebistro

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/greyslanebistro

The bistro is open all day, for breakfast, lunch and dinner, for coffee/tea and sweet things too. Check their Facebook for current opening times as they'll change during the course of the year.

*** By the way, you will still see some references to Goat’s Lane Bistro. Don’t worry. The team were in Goat’s Lane but recently they moved to the bigger and brighter premises on Grey’s Lane.

Best of Blends. More than 15 varieties in one

Best of Blends.

More than 15 varieties in one.

Blending has been a part of winemaking for many generations. Probably started by accident. But no accident in the Douro below where more than 15 grape varieties are used! Sometimes, as it in the majority here, just two grapes are used. There can be up to six in Port and sometimes more than double that in Cotes du Rhone. Blends everywhere then, including our two from South America.

Quinta do Judeu Vinho tinto 2010, Douro (DOC), 13%, Curious Wines

Colour is somewhere between violet and purple. It has a smooth silky feel, rounded flavours, some spice, some grip, quite intense yet harmonious in all aspects, not least in the long finish. Much to be said for the human touch: this has been foot trodden in granite lagares. Hope that bare-footed gang had as much fun trampling forwards and back on it as I had drinking it. Very Highly Recommended.

It is not filtered so should be decanted. I got this bottle as a present from Maurice O'Mahony (of the former Wine Alliance) and it is “made from more than 15 Douro varieties from old vineyards, with the predominance of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Roriz and Tinta Amarela”. Curious Wines are now selling the wines of Quinta do Judeu.

Chateau de Rochemorin 2009, Pessac-Leognan (France), 13%, €16.40 in Graves. Bordeaux wines are widely available in Ireland.

This “assemblage” is the classic Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with Cab Sauv supplying 60 per cent of the mix. The aim is to produce a well balanced wine that is the best possible expression of the terroir.

This left bank bottle comes from a Lurton vineyard, a family “who have strived for excellence...this family’s passion for viticulture goes back a long way”. The Lurtons, particularly André, are highly respected.

Colour is purple and on the nose there are berries, vanilla, even a drift of tobacco. Two thousand and nine was one of those very good years so this expression is one of the best, elegant and smooth and drinking so well now. Soft and easy drinking, fresh with ripe tannins, long, flavoursome and Very Highly Recommended.

Finca 878 Clásico Vino Tinto Malbec Merlot 2012, Argentina, 13%, €13.95 Karwig Wines (now reduced to 11.15, great value).

This blend is popular in Argentina and, according to Wine Searcher, is becoming popular in New Zealand. This 878 is designed for the younger drinker. The producers’ translator calls them junior drinkers but it went down well with this senior imbiber!

This medium red gives off aromas of ripe red fruit. Palate is pretty smooth, fruit yes but with good balance, easy drinking, finish not the longest but Highly Recommended. In Argentina, they grow over 90,000 acres of these two grapes, four times more Malbec than Merlot. Most Argentinian Merlot ends up in blends.

Something to check before you start drinking. The bottom eight on the label is upside down!

Dóna Paula Malbec Syrah 2011, Mendoza (Argentina), 14%, €10.00 O’Donovan’s Off Licence.

This is a rich dark red and aromas of plum dominate. Beautiful fruit flavours follow, sweet notes yes, yet very good acidity, a pleasant mouthfeel with a long finish. Good wine, good value and Highly Recommended.

The estate, part of the Chilean Santa Rita group, in the foothills of the Andes, has “always been managed using Sustainable Agricultural practices”. Watch out too for their Los Cardos wines which, according to Wines of South America, “are among the world’s great values”.

Spotlight on Best in County Awards at Blas in Dingle

Fish in Garvey's SuperValu, Dingle

Blas na hEireann 2015 Award Winners

Spotlight on Best in County Awards

Ger Kirwan of Goatsbridge Trout Farm

Year on year, the awarding of Best in County Awards has been growing as a part of the Blas na hEireann Awards in Dingle every October. These awards are presented by the the Local Enterprise Office from the various counties and are much appreciated by the winners.

Blas: “The winners of these awards have reported that being recognised in their own counties has been vital to their businesses where a large portion of their sales are made locally, either in stores or farmers markets.”  And it is not just the awards, important as they are, that are appreciated by the producers. They also very much appreciate the support that they receive throughout the year from their Local Enterprise Office.

Actually one of the Local Enterprise officers Joe English let slip that food producers may already have a foot in the door. He said the offices find it hard to resist when someone comes in with good things to eat. You get their attention straight away! So there you are, if you are a food producer, make a beeline for your local office.

Like the Blas awards in general, this shorter list from the Local Enterprise offices reflect the trends happening across the Irish food and drink scene. Here you see craft brewers, gin distillers, sushi makers, cider makers, all relatively new to the stage but, of course, bakers, black pudding makers and, very importantly, chocolate makers also feature.

Joe's Farm Crisps

Increasingly, the winning products, either Blas or Local Enterprise, are ending up in prominent position in supermarkets. While walking around Dingle on Saturday morning, I was urged by Walter Ryan-Purcell of Loughbeg Farm, whose Oat Loaf has been a great success in Cork and Kerry Supervalu's, to take a look in the supermarket just behind me.

Jim's Kerrs Pink in Garvey's

Garvey’s was something of a revelation. It was completely revamped last May and looks brilliant, spacious and bright, with a great layout. And, encouragingly for me, there were lots and lots of what is loosely called “artisan” food. They love their spuds in Kerry, grow some terrific ones up around Ballydavid and Ballyferriter, even have annual hotly contested tastings, and local spuds and veg were prominent.

Then I took a look at one of the cheese displays, seeing Dingle Gold, Crozier Blue (one of my favourites and a Blas winner) along with their own brand cheeses. They have a very inviting fish display, most of it fresh from the nearby seas. But right smack bang in the middle were fillets of the farmed trout from Kilkenny’s Goatsbridge, a winner at Blas this year.

Cathal of De Roiste

On a shelf nearby, I spotted Longueville cider and the local Cronin's cider, beers by Eight Degrees and Galway Bay Brewery. Lots of foreign beers too but at least the Irish were up there, battling shoulder to shoulder. And naturally enough, Dingle gin and vodka has a display case to itself!

I’m told quite a few SuperValu managers are visiting Garvey’s to see what the future looks like. Looks pretty good for Irish producers to me, even if my look-around was far from forensic. Not all producers go the Blas route but a win in Dingle (be it gold, silver or bronze, or recognition by your county) is a boost to the producer and quite possibly a boost to his or her sales figures as well.

Best in County Awards 2015

Carlow -

Best in Carlow: Sunshine Juice

Best in Farmers Market: The Chocolate Garden of Ireland

Donegal

Best in County: Aran Ard Teo – Gallaghers

Best in Farmers Market: Mallow Mia

Galway

Best in Galway: Galway Hooker Brewery

Best in Farmers Market: Tribal Foods

Kerry

Best in Kerry: O’Donnells

Best in Farmers Market: Dingle Sushi

Kildare

Best in Kildare: Aedamar’s Lemon Curd

Best in Farmers Market: L’Art du Chocolat

Louth

Best in Louth: Dan Kelly’s Cider

Best in Farmers Market: Daisy’s Pantry

Mayo

Best in Mayo: Kelly’s of Newport

Meath

Best in Meath: Big Red Kitchen

Best in Farmers Market:  Blaste & Wilde

Roscommon

Best in Roscommon County: Waldrons

Best in Roscommon Town: Gilligans

Tipperary

Best in Tipperary: Piedmontese Beef

Best in Farmers Market:  Ayle Farm Foods

Waterford

Best in Waterford: Blackwater Distillery

Best in Farmers: Market Pure Food Company

Westmeath

Best in Westmeath:  Mr Crumb

Best in Farmers Market: An Olivia Chocolate

Wexford

Best in Wexford: Wexford Preserves

Best in Farmers Market: Naturally Cordial

Cork South

Best in Cork South: De Roiste Puddings

Best in Farmers Market: Joe’s Farm Crisps

Limerick

Best in County Moonriver Chocolates

Best in Farmers Market   Silver Darlings

You may see the full list of Blas winners for 2015 here.

Son of a Bun know their Beef. In the Pink!

Son of a Bun know their Beef.

From the Start, to the Finish in Pink!

Niall, with yours truly

Son of a Bun, the new bright and airy burger place in McCurtain Street, know their beef, their key ingredient. Niall O’Regan, who launched the venue last night, told me he is from Bandon and the beef comes from an Irish Aberdeen Angus beef herd near the West Cork town, via butcher Dan Maloney who has his own abattoir. It is minced onsite in Son of a Bun everyday.

“The Son of a Bun motto is simple: sourced locally, minced daily and cooked pink. We believe that pink is the best way to serve a burger – and we guarantee that once you taste our burgers, you will feel the same way too,” he added.

And it makes for a brilliant burger, one that is served pink (unless of course you state otherwise). It is moist and tender, full of flavour and absolutely delicious, no two ways about it.

And it is flipping big! Niall’s wife Amanda took us through the menu as the guests gathered and the music played under the ceilingless roof. There are almost a dozen burgers on offer: the Cheese, the Stack, the Chilli, the Black, the Skinny, the Veggie and so on, most at under a tenner.

The mighty Rebel

 “Everything on our menu - our sides, fries, dips and chips – even our desserts are all homemade and prepared fresh every day. We think that it is important to know that everything is carefully selected which is why our beef and chicken are sourced locally and our eggs are all free range,” she said.

CL couldn't resist the Son of a Bun Burger. This is the CV: six ounce hamburger, cheddar cheese, smoked streaky bacon, shredded iceberg, tomato, crispy fried onions and SOB sauce. Mega and fantastic, especially when you add a pot of skinny chips!

Me? Well I spotted the Burger of the Month and went for that. This power-packed Rebel is armed for the teeth with that sensational 6 ounce burger (pink, of course), American cheese, pickles, crispy fried onions, streaky bacon, jalapenos, and mayonnaise. And on the side, a dish of chunky cut chips. Mega stuff. Not a crumb of mince, of anything, left on either plate.

They have a few small things to nibble while you wait including Nachos, chips and dips, and the bowl of mixed olives (three different types) that we choose. And they have a decent selection of salads and sides as well, something for everyone.

Guilty, as charged!

 And if you’d like a pint of craft beer with your burger, then you've come to the right place. We enjoyed draft Franciscan Well, Chieftain for me, Rebel Red for her but they have even more in bottles (including Stag Ban and Black Lightning) and I also noticed bottles of Stonewell cider there.

Now for the guilty part. I'd better confess. We each ended up with a massive Knickerbocker Glory, layer after layer of cream, ice-cream, fresh fruit, fruit coulis and the cherry on top. Sweet dreams after all that!

Niall and Amanda established their first restaurant, Niall’s, in Bandon in 2002. That was followed by the opening of the Coffee Pod on Lapps Quay, Cork in 2006 and by the Coffee Pod on Winthrop Street, Cork in 2007.

Amazing how McCurtain Street has gradually emerged as a food street, established restaurant stars such as Greene’s and Isaac's and everything from coffee shops and tea shops, to subways and ethnic, and now the Son of a Bun, the new kid on the block, a beautiful noise emerging from where the famed Crowley’s Music Shop stood for decades.

Son of a Bun

29 MacCurtain Street, Cork

021 450 8738

www.sonofabun.ie

info@sonofabun.ie

Twitter: @sonofabuncork

Facebook: sonofabuncork

Open every day from 12 noon until 10pm.

Home cooking: Amanda and Niall