Taste of the Week
Black Pudding with Teeling Whiskey
by McCarthy's of Kanturk
The picture below shows most of the ingredients you need to make black pudding. Add water and blood and you have it. But if you want something extra, then add some special ingredients just like McCarthy's of Kanturk did as they made this one (left), our Taste of the Week. As well as the blood and water, cream and some of the superb Teeling's whiskey were mixed in. We had a taste in Nash 19 on Culture Night and will soon be getting more. It is soft and flavoursome, spicy but not salty, crumbly and moist, just irresistible!
Restaurant Reviews. Food. Markets. Wine. Beer. Cider. Whiskey. Gin. Producers. . Always on the look-out for tasty food and drink from quality producers! Buy local, fresh and fair. The more we pull together, the further we will go. Contact: cork.billy@gmail.com Follow on Twitter: @corkbilly Facebook: Billy Lyons
Monday, September 21, 2015
Sunday, September 20, 2015
Dunne & Crescenzi. The Friendly Italian
Dunne & Crescenzi
The Friendly ItalianTagliatelle con pancetta Tuscana |
We were in the mood for Italian, food that is, in Dublin one night last week. We had Dunne & Crescenzi on our short list and a recommendation from Joanne (@dudara on Twitter), a Cork “exile” in Dublin for the past nine years or so, sent us off to South Frederick Street and a lovely meal.
Quite a big crowd in, though the two rooms weren't full and that gave us the chance to have a look at the Italian wine (over 200 types, I think), stored in shelves on all the walls. We settled on a Valpolicella Classico Biologico La Corte Del Pozzo (8.00) and a Rosso di Montepulciano Fossolupaio DOC (8.50), both smooth, both perfect.
Just as well we weren't ordering a bottle - we could have been there all night, such was the extent of the list. As it was it took a quite a while to read through the menu, pages and pages of great choice. We had been nibbling at earlier venues so a small starter was in order and we found just the thing under the Stuzzichini heading.
The word means snacks (approximately) but still the plates were large enough, reasonably priced at six euro each. They were also very appetising. One was Porzione di salumi misti (Portion of Emilia Romagna charcuterie) and the other Porzione di Speck di Trento (Portion of smoked prosciutto). Big tasty snacks!
The "snacks" and Vinsanto |
They had a couple of specials on the board and the translation was done with a friendly gusto - service overall was excellent.
I picked one from the board: Tagliatelle con pancetta Tuscana, olive taggiasche, carciofi e pecorino (15.50), that is, if I remember rightly, Tagliatelle with Tuscan bacon, olives, artichokes and pecorino. I loved it, every little bit, loved the colours, the textures, the flavours, not least the olives that added a salty contrast.
CL went for the Salsiccia senese e fagioli borlotti, Slow cooked fragrant Tuscan fresh sausage, tomato and borlotti bean casserole (13.50). It was a cool enough night and this was a warming dish, that beautiful sausage and a small mountain of beans.
As I mentioned, we had been "grazing" elsewhere earlier, so reluctantly left the Tiramisu and the other desserts alone. Instead we settled for a delicious glass of Vinsanto Tuscany. This well balanced sweet wine was dispatched slowly, sip by sip, postponing all the sweet while our exit into the cool night. The hotel though wasn't too far away.
If you're looking for an Italian around Grafton Street or the Stephen’s Green area, then Dunne and Crescenzi is Very Highly Recommended.
Harvest Days in Waterford. Visiting the Viking City
Harvest Days in Waterford
Visiting the Viking City
Harvest Festival |
Hadn't been in Waterford in a while until we headed east for the recent Harvest Festival. Just ninety minutes after leaving Cork City we were parking in Bolton Street. It was the day before the festival started and we had decided to see some of the city, like any visitor.
First on the agenda was the much heralded Viking Triangle. It is based around Reginald's Tower, the Medieval Museum and the Bishop’s Palace and you can see them on a combined ticket. Amazing collections of exhibits, everything from a 12th century dog’s collar and Brendan Bowyer’s Hucklebuck shoes to exquisite jewelry (12th century) and the sword of a Viking warrior (broken on his death and buried with him). And don't forget to visit Christ Church Cathedral. It is all on an easy walk.
Wine vault under the Medieval Museum |
The modern Medieval Museum, incorporating the 13th century Choristers’ Hall and the 15th century Mayor’s Wine Vault, is Ireland's only such purpose built medieval museum and the first thing you are offered is an opportunity to try out as an archer! You may also mint coins here.
Impressive vestments |
The Bishop’s Palace, the city’s “exquisite Georgian jewel” starts where the Museum leaves off and brings us right up to date. It houses a lovely cafe, where we stopped, and here you can have breakfast, lunch, morning coffees and afternoon teas, even private functions.
Medieval Museum |
Here you will see old Waterford glass, including the Penrose Decanter (the oldest surviving piece), the John Redmond/Ballybricken room, stories of the First World War (read about 14 year old John Condon, the youngest soldier to die in WW1) and wars nearer home. Then peace and poverty, and sport of course. And then the better times, the nights of dance and music as you enter the Showbands Room and see those white shoes!
Oldest piece of Waterford glass |
That night, following a gorgeous dinner at La Boheme, we met Nollaig Brennan at Downes Pub, an old rambling building (even contains a squash court). Here in the snug, we sipped the local Metalman Pale Ale and were introduced to the pub’s own whiskey, Downes’ No. Nine, smooth as the darkness slipping into the narrow streets outside but much warmer!
Busy too the following day with a visit to Waterford Crystal. By Friday lunchtime, the Harvest Festival had started in earnest and there were stalls in virtually every square around the Mall and the Viking Triangle.
The threatened rain arrived later in the afternoon and we headed out the road to the Ardkeen Superstore, on the face of it a normal supermarket. But inside you'll see that a high proportion of the offering is from small artisan producers and we picked up some nice things there.
Elliot Organ in Christchurch |
The sun shone the following morning and the crowds were out in force, walking around the stalls and sampling. We followed suit of course and had a lovely conversation with Maire Power, the Sea Gardener. She has some interesting produce and after a few tastings, we bought some of her Mushroom and Olive Caponata (with seaweed), some bars (including my favourite Coconut and Lime) and a wee bag of Dillisk!
Great choice at Ardkeen Superstore |
Also had a chat with Jeni Pim, busy volunteer (husband Nigel was helping out too) in the GROWfest Demo Tent in Blackfriars. Time too for a coffee at the excellent Momo cafe.Then we took a break from the busy streets to call into Christ Church, which houses the tomb of James Rice - quite a story!
I had seen in the week previous two big organs, one at St Luke’s in Cork and the other at St Coleman’s in Cloyne. But the one here certainly caught my eye as it looked so well. This is the Elliot Organ, restored in 2003 after vandalism, at a cost of some €300,000 euro! Now it is in regular use for services and concerts. Read all about the cathedral and its history here.
Saturday's blue sky |
Our visit was now drawing to an end. But we had a lunch date before departure, guests at the EAT Waterford meal in the marquee on the Mall. After that, just time for a quick browse through the stalls on the Mall and a call to Mag of Goatsbridge to buy a few of her tasty trout products. Back to the car then and, with traffic light, we were back in Cork in an hour and a half, bags full and bags of happy memories too!
Down on the quays |
Saturday, September 19, 2015
Culture Night. Paintings and Plates
Culture Night
Paintings and Plates
Silvia of La Cocina |
The Crawford Gallery was the first stop on Culture Night (18.09.15) with particular attention paid to two paintings. The first encountered featured Hugh Lawton, a direct ancestor of current Bordeaux negociant Pierre Lawton, who was Mayor of Cork City in 1776, and his enormous portrait hangs above the main staircase in the Crawford. Hugh would have quite a few more visitors later on as the L’Atitude 51 Wine Walk had the painting marked as one of their stopping points.
My second painting of interest was another large one, the Men of the South by Sean Keating. This features a group of rather good looking IRA men who, but for the rifles and pistols, could be on their way to a match or a dance even. But you can see the tension as they patiently wait to carry out an ambush. Perhaps I gave this painting more attention than usual because of the state funeral, earlier that day, for executed 1916 rebel Thomas Kent.
Hugh Lawton |
For me, there is always a food call or two during Culture Night, usually to the English Market. But the Crawford Gallery Cafe were offering an intriguing menu, with a touch of Swiss and Spanish, and here we stayed for a pleasant while.
My fondue was based on a humble cheddar from East Cork but, enhanced by the kitchen, it proved a gem. Meanwhile CL tucked into a plate of Tapas that featured Rosscarbery Black Pudding and Gubbeen chorizo among other interesting flavours.
And La Cocina proved a very sweet ending indeed, “not too much sugar” though. From quite a selection we picked and shared a wedge of No Flour Almond and Lemon and a luscious custard cake (almost like a profiterole). Believe it or not, each went well with the last of the Biohof Pratsch Riesling.
Tapas |
More art and food next at Nash 19. Indeed, both are always on the menu since Claire Nash opened the Sternview Gallery about a year ago. Rebecca Bradley’s Provisional View is the current show (until October 15th). The Irish Times critic Aidan Dunne summed it up as “Outstanding textural paintings based on landscape”. It is just that the landscape - suburbs, coastlines, fields and bogs - is never quite the same, “our sense of place not certain” as the handout says.
Time then for more food and with a goodly group of her producers on hand, there was no shortage. Got some lovely tastes of Hederman’s pate and Ardsallagh cheese from Claire. More cheese from Tipperary with Cashel Blue and Crozier Blue (my slight favourite) on hand.
Restaurant manager Mairead was handing out samples of the outstanding Longueville House cider and nearby the O'Connell’s were generous with their spiced beef, now in demand all year round.
All smiles: Champion pudding and spiced beef |
Timmy is rarely puzzled but he did have a quizzical look on his face as he spoke to three Danish visitors. They didn't know what black pudding was, saying they don't have blood puddings on Denmark, once the leading producer of bacon. Different cultures on culture night!
- If truth be told, our first stop of the evening was at a No. 208 bus stop. It turned out to be a long wait. Two scheduled bus times came and went, without a bus in sight, before we finally set out some forty minutes later, very poor service for around four o'clock on a Friday. It was no much better coming home, with two arriving together after another forty minute wait.
Friday, September 18, 2015
Amuse Bouche
Our HQ was an old, disused cow house with a leaking roof; it was cold and damp, with broken doors and windows….
We were guarded twenty-four hours a day by local Volunteers, while the Cumann na mBan women prepared our meals, and we were never short of food. The local people of Baile Mhúirne and Clondrohid brought us daily supplies of bread, milk, butter, eggs, bacon and turf. The present generation will, I am sure, find it hard to understand the generosity….. They had a humane, kind-hearted streak in their hearts for us, and I can tell you seóinins [selfish people] were few and far between during that period early in the twentieth century.
from Memoirs of an old Warrior, compiled and edited by Dónal Ó Héalaithe
The Krawczyk Family in Conversation
THE ART OF LIVING
IN CONVERSATION
WITH THE
KRAWCZYK
FAMILY
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 26
URRU CULINARY STORE
5.00PM / FREE
Schull-based Frank Krawczyk (left) is one of Ireland’s best known and most respected salami and sausage makers.
His son Robbie is an award winning chef currently at the much acclaimed Tankardstown House.
Join Frank and Robbie in an around-the-table conversation format event.
Of Russian-European ancestry, Frank will recount his family history, from gulags to re-settlement camps through London to the story of his, and his wife Anne’s, adventures into the West Cork of the ‘70’s, with us.
He will recount his battles with bureaucracy in his endeavours to establish a world class charcuterie business and, more recently, his championing of the Slow Food movement in West Cork.
The conversation will be facilitated by food writer, Dianne Curtin. Active audience participation will be encouraged. Refreshments will be served.
This event is part of Engage Arts Festival 24 – 27 September at URRU.
ruthhealy@urru.ie
Thursday, September 17, 2015
La Bohème Waterford. Home Of The Celtic Chef
La Bohème Waterford
Home Of The Celtic ChefSalmon (left) and cod |
We dined at ease under the white arched ceilings of Waterford’s La Bohème last week, forgetting in the romantic lighting that we were in a basement (a rather elegant one, it must be said) of the impressive Georgian building that is the headquarters of the Port of Waterford Company.
Christine and Eric Thèze are your hosts here. Breton Eric is the chef. You are in good hands. He is the 2014 winner of the Celtic Cook-off, a huge supporter of local produce (even if France wins on the cheese plate!) as he showed in recent weeks. He played a big role in EAT Waterford’s input into the excellent Harvest Fest* in the city, Ireland’s oldest, and at the same time cooked a sell-out dinner in the West Cork Hotel in Skibbereen as part of A Taste of West Cork.
The restaurant, in George’s Street, has a wine bar (here you can also get nibbles and small plates, even platters) and offers an Early Bird (€24 for two course, 29 for three), a Market Menu (3 course for €35.00) and A La Carte. And there is also a 7 Course Surprise Tasting Menu (€70 per person) available for entire tables only. It is open Monday through Saturday from 5:30pm until late; open Friday for lunch; open Bank Holiday Sundays.
Our meal came from the A La Carte. Some great choices including a Summer Risotto, Terrine of Foie Gras, and Citrus Crab Salad on the starter list. Our picks were the Slow cooked Fenor Farm pork belly, poached pear, tomato and vanilla jam, seasonal greens (8.95) and the Carpaccio of Hereford beef filet, black peppercorn crust, white truffle oil, lemon juice, rocket leaves, parmesan cheese shavings (10.95). Quality all the way.
And the high standard continued. Both mains came from the De La Mer section and both were top notch. We were wondering a bit about the gazpacho but our confidence in the chef was well founded and the salmon turned out to be a gem. Full description: Baked Irish salmon, basil, lemon and breadcrumb crust, gazpacho and cucumber. And I was totally happy with every little bit of the Steamed filet of Dunmore East cod, leeks, garden herbs, beurre blanc.
Both dishes came in at 21.95 and both were washed down with a carafe of a Vermentino from the Languedoc. As you might expect, La Bohème has an excellent fine wine list. But did you know their Craft Beer and Cider List is an award winner? Some tempting cocktails and aperitifs there too.
When it came to dessert, we passed up on all the sweet stuff, even the Classic Crème Brulée with a Brittany Financier (sorry, Eric!), and went for the cheese plate. We had many to choose from and our picks included the creamy Bleu d’Auvergne, the Comté and the Reblochon. So it was France all the way on that plate, even if the drink was a Dows LBV.
Wednesday, September 16, 2015
A Pair of Pouilly-Fuissé. Classy Chardonnay Couple
A Pair of Pouilly-Fuissé
Classy Chardonnay
The neighbouring villages of Pouilly and Fuissé in Burgundy, surrounded by vineyards full of Chardonnay vines, give their names to the rather large Pouilly-Fuissé appellation. It is, according to Oz Clarke, “the sexiest name in the Maconnais”, and at its best produces rich dry white wine. Can be confused with Pouilly-Fumé, a white wine (Sauvignon Blanc) from the Loire. If this happens to you, if you grab one from the “wrong” shelf, don't worry. Just open the Fumé and enjoy.
According to Larousse Wines, Pouilly-Fuissé wines "have a clear character and a good range of flavours. As they get older, they develop dried fruit and honey notes".
Don't let them get too old though. Three to six years is the ageing potential.
According to Larousse Wines, Pouilly-Fuissé wines "have a clear character and a good range of flavours. As they get older, they develop dried fruit and honey notes".
Don't let them get too old though. Three to six years is the ageing potential.
Goichot Pouilly-Fuissé “Les Feuilles d’Or” 2014, 13%, €18.00 SuperValu French Wine event.
Colour is a medium gold and there are aromas of citrus and white fruits among quite a medley. In the mouth, it is smooth, close to creamy, richly fruited and soft with good acidity too plus a lingering finish. An elegant wine indeed and Very Highly Recommended. Recommended with shell fish, king prawns, lobster, crab or poultry in cream sauce as well as many goat’s cheese.
The SuperValu sale continues until September 23rd.
The SuperValu sale continues until September 23rd.
Colour is a slightly deeper gold than the Goichot and it has much the same concentrated aromas with white fruit, citron, honey hints. Smooth, close to creamy again and rich, with a slight drift of spice, soft and fruity, with lively acidity. You may well find it goes better with your shellfish than the Guichot which in turn could well be better with the crab and lobster in the creamy sauces! Take your pick. I’d have a very slight preference for the Goichot but this too, from the well regarded Noblet family, is Very Highly Recommended.
Tuesday, September 15, 2015
Taste of the Week. So Milky Milk Chocolate
Taste of the Week
So Milky Milk Chocolate
One of the bonuses of visiting Clonakilty recently for A Taste of West Cork was the chance to meet chocolatier Allison Roberts at the tasting event in Spiller’s Lane. She was one of the local producers showing their wares and I stocked up on her chocolate bars, including the So Milky Milk bar, our Taste of the Week.
This has no “artificial anything” and is “Gluten free”. Aside from Cocoa, the other main ingredient is Coconut Blossom Syrup. And the milk is not from the cow but from the goat!
Clonakilty Chocolate is a Fairtrade operation, the beans coming to Clon from the farmers of Kokoo (Ghana). Even the wrapper is bio-degradeable. Eating it, the chocolate that is, will make you feel good in more ways than one!
Other bars include: Chai Chilli, 100% Cocoa, Decadent Dark, Wild West Salty, and Seriously Minted. The Salty and the Minted are also among my favourites but do sample and take your pick from a great choice.
Monday, September 14, 2015
Bodega Waterford. Good Food & Lots of Buzz.
Bodega Waterford
Good Food & Lots of Buzz
It is the sound, the sound of happy conversation, that hits you as you walk to your table in Waterford's Bodega. The warmly painted place is long and narrow, lots of paintings on the walls and waiters moving quickly up and down the center aisle. Busy, buzzy on a Thursday night. Wet outside but warm inside.
Got some nice dips and breads as we considered the menu. Could have had the Early Bird and a Home Grown menu, even a Harvest Fest Special, but we don't come here often so went for the A La Carte.
Fish and Duck |
Also went for the local Metalman Pale Ale that they have on draught here. Not alone do they support local brews (and gins, and more) but they also support local food producers in a big way. See the long list here. Bodega is a member of EAT Waterford, a group of 25 restaurants that support local and that means your money stays in the local economy. Pull together!
Soon our starters arrived. I love my artichokes and this time I went for the Artichoke Hearts,
Stewed with White Wine, Tomatoes, Olive Oil & Fresh Herbs (7.90). Delicious. CL’s pick was the Bodega Chicken Liver Paté with Apple Relish & Ballybeg Green Leaves & Homemade Brioche (8.90). Excellent.
Lots of Tasting platters on offer, from the sea and from the land, some for singles, some for doubles. Another very popular dish - it seemed to be going out all night - was the Metalman Battered Fish and Chips. Tempted by all these, but we picked from elsewhere on the extensive menu.
My choice here was the Skeaghanore duck. This is a brilliant product and always ends up in a brilliant dish as was the case here. Fish is strongly featured across the menus and CL’s pick was the Pan-fried Sea-bass with Grantstown Tomato, chermoula and sautéed courgette, another superb dish.
We were feeling pretty full after all that but couldn't resist one of the desserts on the Specials Board, the Dennison’s Roast Plum and Greengage compote, pumpkin seed granola and buttermilk froyo. We shared that beauty and it was two happy punters that stepped out in the feckin’ rain! But there was a taxi in a line outside to ferry us to our hotel.
For review of the Waterford Harvest Fest, check here.
House of Waterford Crystal Tour - Recommended!
EAT Waterford. 5 Course Dinner de Luxe on The Mall.
For review of the Waterford Harvest Fest, check here.
House of Waterford Crystal Tour - Recommended!
EAT Waterford. 5 Course Dinner de Luxe on The Mall.
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