Acton’s Return

Acton’s Return

 Lots of joy in Kinsale and surrounding areas at the return of Acton’s Hotel. Now a refurbished four star establishment, it reopened on Thursday March 14th and hit the ground running. Indeed, its value to the local business and tourist interests was underlined by the sell out figure for its first Saturday night.

On Saturday at breakfast, a proud staff member told me that the breakfast room would be so much busier on Sunday: “We have one and hundred fifty booked in.” Not bad at all for the first weekend, especially considering that the hotel had been under repair since the end of 2011.

Oh yes, that proud staff member wasn't an exception. We had received the warmest of welcomes at the impressive reception desk. Later in the bar, that friendly courtesy was very obvious.  And it continued right through to the breakfast room, another impressive facility here. Just loved it all the way.

Eggs Benedict

The Sidney dining room hadn't reopened at that point but the bar area was very busy with both food and drink. Our only food there was the breakfast and that was top notch. There is a terrific selection for both the Continental type and the Irish type, lots of quality choices.

The hotel looks very well both on the outside and inside. Our room was spacious and well equipped (the Wi-Fi worked without a hitch) and the bathroom too was excellent, big and fully equipped.

And the hotel is very central for the town itself. It is on the Pier Road and a very short stroll will take you into the middle, to the restaurant area. Places you might look out for are the Lemon Leaf (for breakfast, lunch cakes) and the newly opened Finn’s Table (a classy restaurant run by John and Julie Finn, ex Dillon’s). Janey Mac and Bruno’s were others on my list but I didn't get to them this time.

Breakfast: vegetarian option

We did make a short trip to the west though. First stop was the Old Head, all closed up at the moment, even the golf course is shut. But at least there are some fine views, both left and right, by the entrance. Then down to the beach, especially to Garrettstown for a walk and also to see the many surfers in action.

Over then to nearby Ballinspittle for a snack. Quite a snack actually, in the Diva Boutique Bakery and Cafe. Completed the round trip then by calling down to beautiful Sandycove on the way back to Kinsale.

Many reasons to visit this area and Acton’s is just the latest! Highly recommended.

Two Excellent Reds from Spain's Big Top

Two Excellent Reds from Spain

El Circo (The Circus)

Grandes Vinos  have launched a series of wines under the El Circo label, all from the Cariñena DO. Sampled two of the reds recently – they are imported by Wine Alliance – and I found the Tempranillo (one of my favourite grapes) and the Cabernet Sauvignon excellent, really good examples of the respective fruits. Both by the way are very well priced at between €9.99 and 10.99.

El Circo Tempranillo 2011, Spain, 13%, RRP €9.99 to10.99, Stockists

Dark plum and cherry on the nose and the colour is a dark red indeed. The same fruits show on the palate, the flavours smooth and delicious, and the finish is long and dry.

Picked from vineyards over forty years old, there is no mention of oak here but this is a very good example of the variety. Indeed, I reckon the young wine is on a par with quite a few Rioja crianzas.  The firm Grandes Vinos will already be familiar to many of you through their popular Beso de Vino range. Highly recommended.

El Circo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011, Spain, 13%, RRP €9.99 to 10.99, Stockists, 

Colour is a dark red with dark fruits on the nose. Forthright fruit flavours, plum and blackcurrant for me, but well balanced all the way to the longish dry finish. The assertive flavours (it has spent two months in oak) should mean this young fellow matches well with red meat dishes, particularly meats from the grill.

This is a really good example of Cabernet Sauvignon at a very good price indeed. Highly recommended.

Had to make an edit here as late yesterday afternoon El Circo had some good news on their facebook page: “El Circo Contorsionista has been awarded on the gold medal in Berliner Wein Trophy.”  Contorsionista is their circus nickname for the Cabernet Sauvignon.

Fish in the City: Oysters

Fish in the City: Oysters

Swordfish...

If you like your fish, then Oysters is the place to go in Cork City. Here, you can take your pick of the fish from the nearby Atlantic, fresh as fresh can be and superbly cooked in their excellent city centre restaurant in the Clarion Hotel.

Called in there this week to try out the €35.00 set menu. There is also an A La Carte menu and that is the next target. One thing I like about Oysters is the cloakroom. Your coats are put away and you can relax and read the menu at the spacious table and in your comfortable chair or seat, the place beautifully lit.

Chowder

They had a little Amuse Bouche for us: Tomato Gazpacho, a lively little shot of it, sufficient to wake up your taste buds. By now, we had settled on our choices and there are quite a few choices even on the €35.00 euro menu. We had also picked our wine, a carafe of Zimmer Riesling 2010 (€19.00) and we were also sampling some terrific breads and butters, one a combination of Fennell Seed and Thyme, the other a magnificent mix of Blue Cheese, White Fish and Sundried Tomatoes.

Soon, we were tucking into our starter. CL’s was probably the more enticing looking of the two: Duck (Croquette, Parfait, Beetroot, Pear, Candied Walnuts, Truffled Dressing, and Brioche). Superb plateful, some great flavours there especially the Candied Walnuts.

Hake

Mine mightn’t have looked that well but it sure tasted great: Swordfish - Ceviche, Mango, Avocado, Fennel, Lime Confit, Pistachio, Frisee Lettuce, Citrus Oil. A super thinly sliced cut and my fishy night was up and running. Surprisingly, they had no oysters available on the night! It can happen, I suppose. I remember a few years back, sitting at a sunny table on the waterfront in Baltimore and they had no mussels!

Anyway, that was soon forgotten and we were onto the soup course. Mine was the Oysters Seafood Chowder- Pancetta, Samphire, Potatoes and Light Bisque. Chunky bits and pieces of fish with all the other bits combining to give a really lovely combination. And much the same could be said about CL’s choice: Turnip and Parsnip Velouté- Chestnut, Cep Dust.

A nicely judged gap followed before the mains arrived. We had both picked the same one: Hake- Cep Agnolotti, Smoked Sausage, Oyster Mushroom, Samphire, Pine Nuts. Once again a superb combination of flavours and textures and it certainly looked well also. A side dish of potatoes was also appreciated.

Desserts selection

Riesling

And now again an appropriate pause before the desserts arrived, along with a couple of glasses of a dessert wine from Jurancon: Chateau Jolys 2009. Mine was Chocolate - Tart, Salted Caramel Mousse, White Chocolate & Banana Parfait, Sherry. Excellent, no shortage of chocolate but not too heavy either. CL settled for Chef’s Selection of Small Desserts, quite a winning selection indeed, especially that Champagne Sorbet.

So that was about it. Soon we had our coats on and heading out into the cool night. The restaurant, thanks to two big groups arriving in, was reasonably busy for a midweek stuck between bank holidays but bookings were flying in for the coming weekend. Popular place by the sound of it.

Diva Boutique Bakery Cafe. Big in Ballinspittle

Diva Boutique Bakery Cafe
Big in Ballinspittle

The Diva Wrap

 No mystery about the title Diva, the name of a bakery and foodstore on one side of the main Street in Ballinspittle and, on the other side, of a village cafe. Owner and founder Shannen Keane named it after a cafe in her native Seattle.

But there is a bit more to it, methinks. After all, some of the walls and some of the tables are plastered with black and white photos of real women from the forties and fifties, maybe some from the sixties, before that decade inflicted Twiggy and a forest of lookalikes on us.

All well and handy for slipping into a mini-dress or a mini-car but hardly robust enough for the farm! Our farmers did appreciate the diva size. I always remember being in a yard one day as one of the women hauled a couple of full buckets across the square with two old fellows watching. Her skirt had been hitched up for the milking and, when she bent over to drop the buckets for a rest, even more of her legs, perhaps the pale backs of the knees (God forbid!), was exposed. “Hasn’t she a fine pair of shafts*,” exclaimed one grizzled fellow to another.

The Diva BLT

Size is important here in this little cafe in Ballinspittle. They make big cakes, big sandwiches. Called in there the other day for lunch and was surprised to see it full. But they got us room, sharing a table with a guy who was working his mobile like mad. At an nearby table, another guy was engrossed in his laptop while all around couples and trebles and groups were noisily tucking in. Welcome to village life in Ireland 2013.

Quite a selection on the blackboard, though we were told they were only operating at half power, it being so early in the season. We were too late of course for the breakfast but no shortage of lunch choices.

CL went for the BLT and got quite a surprise when she found three or four big rashers tucked in between the slices of bread. Plenty of tomato as well and a big crunchy salad, no micro this or mini that here. All for less than seven euro.

I went upmarket, a bit, as my Chicken Wrap cost all of €7.95. Again it was substantial but so tasty. No shortage of tasty chicken and I too enjoyed that rustic salad. Quantity and quality. With so much to eat, we both went for the tea. Total cost €18.40 and they knocked the forty cent off. Only in Ballinspittle!

* The horse carriage or cart, once common in the Irish farmyard, was equipped with two (timber) shafts which ran along the horse's sides.  Example here.

Amuse Bouche

Ma says the plates aren’t a problem, the blue doesn’t go on the food, she gets me to rub it with my finger to see. Also the forks and knives, the metal feels weird with no white handles but it doesn’t actually hurt. There’s a syrup that’s to put on the pancakes but I don't want mine wet. I have a bit of all the foods and everything are good except the sauce on the scrambled eggs. The chocolate one, the Easter, it’s meltedy inside. It’s double more chocolatier than the chocolates we sometimes get for Sundaytreat, it’s the best thing I ever ate.
“Oh! We forgot to say thanks to Baby Jesus,” I tell Ma.
“We’ll say it now, he doesn’t mind if we’re late.”
Then I do a huge burp.
Then we go back to sleep.
From: Room by Emma Donoghue (Unique, powerful book)

Old Friends at the new Finns' Table

Old Friends at the new Finn’s Table

Great to meet up with John and Julie Finn, back in their element, having just opened up Kinsale’s newest restaurant, Finns' Table in Main Street. The talented friendly couple who made such a success of Dillon's in Timoleague are, after a few months in the wilderness, back doing what they know best. And that is good news for restaurant customers in Kinsale and the surrounding area.

Indeed, many Kinsale people used make the short drive over to Timoleague and quite a few have already been visiting the new establishment. Obviously this is a major boost for the Finns as Julie underlined: “We'd like to thank Kinsale for being so supportive to our new chapter.”

You won’t miss Finns' on the Main Street. Beautiful colours catch the eye as do those pretty white shutters that cover the lower half of the windows. It is amazingly comfortable inside, beautifully decorated. Julie tells me she loves her flowers and she has daffodils scattered all around.

Took all that in and then started to study the menu. You may take it that there will be regular changes to the menus (they do an early bird). “We have lots of new produce coming daily like local lobsters which in turn means daily changes to both menus!” 

After a very tasty Goat Cheese Amuse Bouche and gorgeous bread, we took the plunge. Great to see so many local producers listed and I picked the Ummera Smoked Salmon and Ricotta terrine with pickled cucumber (€9.50). Loved it. CL’s choice was Marinated Toons Bridge Feta, beetroot, chestnut mushroom and rocket salad (€9.00), another smashing opener.

Lots of fish on the menu. We do eat it regularly but this time, knowing that the meat came from the Finns' family butcher shop, we made a change. Grilled Irish Sirloin Steak with Tobacco onions, lightly creamed mushrooms, black pepper sauce and steak fries (€26.00) was my choice, a massive piece of the tenderest meat. Highly recommended if you get the chance sometime.

Dessert: Rosewater Yoghurt Panna Cotta with poached Rhubarb

CL’s also cost €26.00 and that was the Roast Rack of Lamb with Roast Sweet Potato, Parsnip puree and Rosemary jus, another splendid dish, delicious and tender and so well balanced.

They have quite an extensive wine list. You may buy by the glass, by the half bottle and by the bottle.


Open Thurs thro Monday from 5.30 with an early evening menu from 5.30-6.45 and a la carte running from 5.30 till late.
Phone: 021 470 9636
Email: info@finnstable.com

Super Menu for Hayfield Manor's April Wine Event

Hayfield Manor Wine Society

Connoisseurs looking to expand their knowledge of wine, or enthusiasts who simply love sampling new and exciting vintages, will relish this special event on Thursday April 18th, part of a series of Wine Society evenings held in Hayfield Manor.

The evening will be hosted by Jane Boyce, Ireland's first female Master of Wines and wine columnist for Irish Tatler.  Wines on the night will be supplied by James Nicholson Wine Merchants which will focus on classic grape varieties and showcase various regions.

This exclusive event begins at 7.00pm with an introduction to the wines over aperitifs and canapes.  Our Executive Chef, Graeme Campbell, has created a five course gourmet menu designed to perfectly complement the selection of elegant wines chosen to be showcased on the night:

Ardsallagh Goats Cheese & Garlic Textures
Soft Goats Cheese, Black Garlic, Smoked Garlic, Wild Garlic Leaf & Garlic Espuma
Dry Reisling from Germany, Mosel, Loosen Red State 2010

***

Pan Seared Sea Bass
Creamed Fennel, Pickled Mash, Asian Scented Croquette & Soy Sauce Foam
Chardonnay, Burgundy 'Cuvee des Forgets' 2010 Patrick Javillier

***

O'Connell's Spring Lamb Duo
Slow Braised Lamb & Cabbage Cannelloni
Pinot Noir, Aoc Fixin, Burgundy, Domaine Jean Tardy & Fils 2008

***

Passion Fruit Mousse
With Black Pepper Pineapple, Meringue, Chilli Puree and Lemon Sorbet
Reisling Lake Harvest, New Zealand, John Forrest 2011

***

Platter of Irish and Continental Cheeses
Carignan Syrah Grenache, Cotes du Roussillon, Segna de Cor 2011 Roc des Anges

***

Tea or Coffee and Petit Fours.

For more details on our Wine Society evenings or to make a reservation for any of our future dates please call Michelle on             +353 21-4845900       or email events@hayfieldmanor.ie

(Please note above menu is subject to change)

Ballymaloe International Literary Festival of Food and Wine

Ballymaloe International Literary Festival of Food and Wine

Welcome to Ballymaloe from Chefs Rory O'Connell, Darina Allen and Rachel Allen 

Ballymaloe House and Ballymaloe Cookery School, Shanagarry, to host
the first Ballymaloe International Literary Festival of Food and Wine
from 3-6 May.



Leading figures from the world of gastronomy will converge on East
Cork for the first Ballymaloe International Literary Festival of Food
and Wine, to be held at Ballymaloe House and Ballymaloe Cookery
School, Shanagarry, Co Cork, 3-6 May.



Hosted by celebrated cook and author Darina Allen, the festival
promises to delight lovers of food and wine with a feast of over 40
events, big and small, over a three-day period. Its densely packed
programme incorporates cookery demonstrations, wine tastings, panel
discussions, garden and foraging walks, book readings and much more,
showcasing the talents of a galaxy of gastronomic stars.



Among those flying in to participate are:

Madhur Jaffrey, world-renowned for her books and television programmes
on Indian food

Claudia Roden, acclaimed expert on Middle Eastern and Spanish food

Alice Waters, trailblazing founder of the famous Californian
restaurant Chez Panisse

David Thompson, restaurateur, author and eloquent ambassador for Thai food

Stephanie Alexander, one of Australia’s best known and best loved cooks

Claus Meyer, founder of Copenhagen’s Noma, voted No 1 restaurant in the world

David Tanis, prominent American chef and New York Times cookery writer

Joanna Blythman, leading British investigative food writer and broadcaster

Stevie Parle, dynamic head chef at London’s Dock Kitchen

Jancis Robinson MW, one of the worlds’s most respected wine writers



This glittering international cast will be matched by a strong Irish
presence including cookery queen and bestselling author Rachel Allen;
restaurateur and record-breaking television chef Neven Maguire;TV
cook, food writer and blogger Donal Skehan; virtuoso vegetarian chef
Denis Cotter; authoritative food commentator John McKenna; food and
farming expert and Ear to the Ground presenter Ella McSweeney;
broadcaster and historian John Bowman; and Irish Times wine writer
John Wilson.



‘We are thrilled that the festival should attract such an exciting
line-up,’ says Darina Allen. ‘It will give lovers of food and wine an
unrivalled opportunity to meet internationally acclaimed writers in
these fields face to face – and it is sure to result in a wonderful
fusion of ideas.’



The programme for the weekend incorporates over 40 strikingly diverse
events, ranging in scale from major cookery demonstrations to intimate
tea parties. In addition to the main programme, there will be a fringe
festival in The Big Shed at Ballymaloe, offering food enthusiasts of
all ages an array of other activities. Gardeners will rub shoulders
with cooks; foragers with food historians; critics with musicians;
artisan producers with bloggers in a continuous melting pot of eating,
drinking, speaking and thinking.  It will be a place for new ideas,
inspiration, learning and fun.The Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food
and Wine is a unique event in a very special place.



 Bord Bia, Irish Distillers, Kerrygold and
Sodexo as the Premium Sponsors for this event.



For more information and tickets please visit www.litfest.ie or call
            021 4646785      . Updates are available on
www.facebook.com/BallymaloeLitfest or @BallymaloeLit .

Discover the Origin invite Food Professionals to taste the provenance of Parma ham & Parmigiano-Reggiano

***Discover the Origin invite Food Industry professionals to taste the provenance of Parma ham & Parmigiano-Reggiano***

Discover the Origin returns in 2013 with a series of masterclasses offering the delicatessen trade the chance to taste and learn more about these two historic European food products, both of which enjoy PDO status. The event is for food industry folk.

The masterclasses will include a comparative tasting of various aged Parma ham and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, along with serving and wine pairing suggestions, and will arm deli staff with the information needed to help sell these unique and fully traceable products. The event is also an opportunity for some informal industry networking, with all food professionals welcome.

Discover the Origin is financed with aid from the European Union, Italy, France and Portugal to promote five key European products: Bourgogne Wines, Parma Ham, Douro Wines, Parmigiano-Reggiano Cheese and Port.

The campaign aims to enhance knowledge of the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) scheme among consumers, distributors and food professionals across the UK and Ireland; to educate on the benefits of provenance indicator schemes and the relevant checks, controls and traceability systems that are put in place to ensure ongoing quality; and to differentiate the products and raise their profiles.

The masterclasses will be presented by food and wine writer Aoife Carrigy and will take place at a central location in the following cities:

Cork:               Monday 25th March, 7pm–8.30pm
Galway:           Monday 22nd April, 6pm–8pm
Dublin:            Monday 20th May, 6pm–8pm

Location details will be confirmed upon registration. To register for these free events, please email Aoife on carrigy@gmail.com, with the subject line ‘DTO Masterclass’, and indicate how many places you wish to reserve. Please include a daytime contact telephone number. Please note that spaces are limited.

To find out more about Discover the Origin, log onto www.discovertheorigin.co.uk or follow the campaign on Facebook and Twitter.com/DiscoverOrigin.

Euro Farmhouse Cheesemakers come to Ireland

The European Farmhouse and Artisan

 Cheesemakers Congress comes to Ireland

Pictured at the launch of Ireland’s first artisan cheese congress were Dick Willems, Coolea Cheese, Eimear O’Donnell, Bord Bia and Marion Roeleveld, Killeen Farmhouse Cheese. 

The Association of Irish Farmhouse Cheesemakers (CAIS) will host the 5th European Farmhouse and Artisan Cheesemakers Congress at University College Cork on the 26th April, where industry stakeholders from Ireland and other EU member states will come together to share knowledge and initiate collaborations across the farmhouse dairy sector.

Topics such as sustainability in farmhouse dairy and environmental impact, farmhouse production best practice, and the market opportunity for farmhouse dairy will be included on the programme. The congress is part of the Network of European Cheesemakers, an exchange of practical information among cheesemakers from France, Germany, Finland, Ireland, Italy, The Netherlands, Norway, Sweden, and Spain.

Over 60 artisan cheesemakers from these countries will visit Ireland during April to participate in the congress and experience Ireland’s unique and diverse dairy sector. For more information, visit www.irishcheese.ie.

Thank you Mr Quinney

Thank you Mr Quinney

Just have to say a major merci to Gavin Quinney and all the crew at Chateau Bauduc for making great wines and to the guys and gals at Curious Wines for stocking them. Helped myself to a couple recently and each was superb.

Château Bauduc, Les Trois Hectares, Semillon 2010 (also known as Bordeaux blanc sec), 13% abv, €14.39 (reduced from 17.99) Curious Wines

Bordeaux for sure but with a couple of noticeable differences: the Stelvin closure and the fact that the main grape, Semillon, is named on the front label.

Colour is light gold and it is bright. Nose is aromatic and on the palate it is fresh and lively (almost fizzy) and dry. A lovely dry white, excellent texture and complexity, perhaps reflecting that the grapes used come from a seven acre vineyard of gnarled, 60 year old vines. By the way the actual blend is 80% Sémillon with 20% Sauvignon Blanc.

Just about 1400 cases were produced. The wine is listed at Gordon Ramsey ad Rick Stein, one of whom is a favourite of mine! This is a super wine, great value at Curious at the moment and is Very Highly Recommended!

Chateau Bauduc Close de Quinze, Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 (Cotes de Bordeaux), 14% abv, €13.59 (reduced from 16.99), Curious Wines

This is a very dark red, almost black, with ripe red fruit on the nose. Quite a mouthful, fruity, spicy and on then on to a terrific dry finish. “Powerful yet classic red Bordeaux.” Yes indeed and at a good price. Two thousand and ten “was a magnificent ripe vintage”. This blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cab Sauv takes full advantage and is Very Highly Recommended.

Must say one thing I really like about Chateau Bauduc, aside from the wine of course, is the clarity on the label, lots of to-the-point info, no hype.

The Lemon Leaf Cafe

The Lemon Leaf Cafe

 Quite a few rooms in the Lemon leaf Cafe in Kinsale. You’ll be at home in any of them, although many costumers gravitate towards the glass roofed one, so bright and airy. Pick a seat or  a sofa and study the menu.

 It is open seven days a week. You may have your breakfast here, Scrambled Eggs on their toasted artisan bread or maybe the Bagel special (local handmade sausage and smoky bacon on toasted bagel with homemade tomato and apple chutney). And much more.

Breakfast is served until 2.00pm but in mid-morning, perhaps you’d like their coffee (Ariosa from County Meath roasters) and a scone. Oh, just to mention as I know many of you, just like me, like to support local producers, that the Lemon Leaf also makes it a priority. Here you may choose meat from Lordan’s in Ballinspittle, bread from Tom’s Artisan Bakery in Kinsale, Durrus cheese, Clonakilty Black pudding, free range eggs from Beechwood Farm and Katie’s Bandon chocolates – including the very popular sticky hot chocolate. 

If you’re in for lunch, you’ll be trying some of those tasty products. Maybe a Beef Burger with Durrus cheese on toasted ciabatta or perhaps a Feuille De Brique (baked filo parcel with daily filling, served with couscous & mixed baby leaves). Soups and sandwiches also. No shortage of choice here at any time.

And this is also a family friendly place. Not alone do the kids have their own tasty looking menu, but your small one may well get his own little table, next to yours, and when he or she is finished the meal, will have a bunch of crayons or similar supplied to pass the time.

We arrived on a sunny mid-afternoon looking for something sweet. We were in the right place. They have a good selection of cakes and an even better selection of beverages. All the delicious cakes are home baked and the selection varies according to the day.

Lemon drizzle slices (€2.20) and a Lemon Cheesecake (4.50) were our choices with a pot of excellent tea. My tea was Earl Grey, made with the biggest tea bag I’ve seen in a while, a third bigger than normal I’m told! Enjoyed the visit.

By the way, if you are in a rush and can’t linger a while, you may make a visit to their on-site store and buy quite a few of the products to take home and enjoy.

Monday to Friday 8.30AM TO 4.30PM
Saturday and Sunday 8.30AM to 5PM
Call             021 4709792    

70 Main Street,
Kinsale, Co. Cork

Loved 24 Hours in Kinsale

24 Hours in Kinsale

Arrive  2.30pm 15th March: Coffee and cake at the cool Lemon Leaf Cafe.

3.30pm Check in at Actons

4.30pm Quay side walk.

7.30pm Dinner at Finn's Table

Saturday 16th March 10.00am. Town Walk

11.00 Check out of Acton's

12noon: Garrettstown surfing

1.30pm: Lunch at the Diva (Ballinspittle)

2.30pm: Sandycove.