Four Fine Saisons For You in A Quart of Ale± #17

 Four Fine Saisons For You in A Quart of Ale± #17

Moving on over to craft.

Saison.

Glazen Toren “D’erpe-Mere” 6.5%, 33cl bottle Bradley’s of Cork

Jef Van Den Steen, a former professor of mathematics, is a master of saison at De Glazen Toren Brewery. Saison originated in Wallonia, in the French speaking part of Belgium, and that’s where Jef found it and fell in love with it.

Why? “Because of its drinkability - it is never sweet, always dry, refreshing and very drinkable,… a very old style, more than 200 years old.” You can find Jef talking about saison on a 2016 You Tube short.

It is a farmer’s ale, also known as a table beer, brewed in one season (winter) for drinking in another (summer) by the farm labourers. While most saisons now are mid to high abv, the beer then (in the 19th century and in the first decades of the 20th) was much lower so the workers weren’t falling about in the fields all day. 

Because it had to kept fresh for six months or so, extra hops were added to enhance shelf life. “Hops protect beer from ageing and I very much like bitterness. I don’t like sweet. Sweet is good for horses and elephants, not for humans.”

The De Glazen Toren brewery in Erpe-Mere, Belgium, was founded in 2004. Within ten years the initiative of the brew masters Jef Van den Steen and Dirk De Pauw, along with a third partner, Mark De Neef, has grown from a brewing hobby into a successful, professional company.

Colour of this one is a hazy pale gold - no shortage of little bubbles rising - with a big white head. Taste that head - stick your finger in - and you’ll note the bitterness (you may notice it again at the finalé). Aromas yield  a more modest bitterness, hints too of citrus. No extremes on the palate where it all - the aromas and the flavours- come together in a supple harmony,  a refreshing flow. And you remember that refreshment was the aim with Saison. You didn’t want your workers dozing off after lunch. If I were the farmer handing this one out, I think I’d keep it for the weekend!

As ever, the Belgians come up with food pairings:

Smoked trout fillet, salad of beetroot and Jona Gold (apples) with horseradish cream;

Sepia (cuttlefish) with green peas;

Cheese fondue;

Pasta with leek sauce, blue cheese.

They say:  Barley and wheat malts have been used to produce this beer. Liquid sugar too! The beer is brewed according to the old Saison tradition of Hainaut. The beer is not filtered and is pure natural. 

Dupont “Saison Dupont” 6.5%, 33cl bottle Bradley’s of Cork

A former drinking partner used to describe the head on a local stout as “ice cream”. I’m reminded of that remark when I pour, perhaps too quickly, my bottle of Saison Dupont. The head shrinks but slowly enough.

Beer has been brewed here in Belgium’s Hainaut for centuries though it is only in the last 20 years or so that the Dupont Brewery has become a global reference for saison. 

Farm beers of this type – light, rather dry but fruity – were traditionally brewed during the winter, ready to quench the thirst of the seasonal field workers (saisoniers) during the summer to follow.

It is a cloudy mid-amber, fountains of micro-bubbles. Aromas of citrus. Light and fruity, zesty and refreshing, yet no shortage of hearty flavour. Reckon any labourer, even a keyboard one, would be happy with this impeccable beer. Superb finish also with the bitterness now to the forefront. Nothing quirky, nothing extreme other than extremely good. As Michael Creedon of Bradley’s told me “if you don’t like this, you don’t like saison”.

They say: Saison Dupont was first brewed in 1844. This copper-blond beer yields amazingly delicate aromas paired with a pronounced hop-bitterness. The house yeast and the local hard water, drawn from a well, play an important role in the creation of this beer. An in-bottle refermentation makes a major contribution to the development of this complex and highly aromatic beer.

Third Circle “Unsocial Creatures”  Dry Hopped Saison 4.4%, 33cl can Bradley’s of Cork

Pours a golden colour washing up the curve of the glass, fluffy white head not built to last. Hops, with some sweetness, in the aromas. I like to think this is the real thing. It tastes so good. Absolutely drinkable, the hops in every drop making every drop one of hit-the-spot drinking pleasure, jackpot every time. Crisp and fruity and moreish.

They say: We took our old house saison recipe and brought it up a notch. Hopped with Topaz and Cashmere. Expect a crisp, highly quaffable, summertime slammer with notes of white grape and melon.

Third Circle beers are made in Dublin, Ireland. “In collaboration with our friends at Stone Barrel Brewing we have founded Third Barrel Brewery which is located on Bluebell Avenue in Dublin 12, where Third Circle beers are produced. We use a pre-loved 1,100 litre brewery system which, in a previous lifetime, spent many years decocting fine Pilsners in the Czech hills.”

Heaney “Way Over Yonder” 5.7%, 440ml can Bradley’s of Cork

This hazy beer from the County Derry farmhouse brewery pours a gold colour, with a fluffy head that hangs around for a bit. Fruity and slightly spicy in the aromas. Fruity too on the palate, apricots are suggested. “A funky yeast” adds to the complexity of this fruited farmhouse ale.

The label say its a rustic ale but I find it rather elegant and smooth, though I’d better add that I’ve known some rustics who are also quite sophisticated. In any event, it is well made and balanced and an excellent beer. One for the grafters, they say. But, if they were my grafters I don’t think I’d be handing it out at lunch-time with its 5.7 abv. Perhaps keep it for the end of the day.

By the way, I had a few dried apricots (unsulphured) in the house and the pairing with this saison was perfect.

Malts: Pale Ale Malt, Crystal Malt, Wheat Malt, Chocolate Malt

Hops: Galena, Nugget, East Kent Goldings

ABV: 4.2% IBUs: 33 

They say:  We make this beer for “the grafters” and Mrs Heaney is lauded as the original grafter. “For generations our family farm has been a place of harvest and inspiration; in step with the past and striking a new future.” 

A Quart of Ale± #16. Moving on over to craft. Stout & Porter.

A Quart of Ale± #16

Moving on over to craft. 

Stout/Porter 

Starting off with a couple of excellent Irish porters and finishing with a pair of equally excellent stouts. In between, I take a look at the Founders Porter though not as impressed with this as I was with their Breakfast Stout .

By the way, the terms Porter and Stout are interchangeable according to the latest World Atlas of Beer. Craft Beer for the Geeks say stout is a stronger version of porter.

Trouble Brewing “Dark Arts Porter” 4.4%, 440ml can Bradley’s of Cork

Pours black as you’d expect and you can get quite a head (coffee coloured) if the pour is more rapid than usual. Chocolate, caramel and coffee among the aromas. And they also feature in the flavours. Indeed this lighter bodied black reminds me of those well made light dry red wines that have become very popular in recent years. A very decent porter indeed (though I still retain a preference for stouts).

Trouble Brewing are very happy with the early success of this one, and why not. Their Facebook: Dark Arts is the second beer we ever brewed here in Trouble and has stood the test of time to become one of Ireland's outstanding porters. 

I’m regularly amazed as to how often brewers get things right from the get-go. Howling Gale by Eight Degrees and Black’s KPA are early examples and Trouble say they’ve never touched the Dark Arts recipe since the initial production.

Kinnegar Yannaroddy Porter 4.8%, 440ml can Ardkeen Store

Where did they get the name? Sounds Australian to me. But no, they found it in their own little corner of Donegal where they get all the names for their beers. A stone’s throw from the brewery is a field with the intriguing name Yannaroddy.

Ever wondered about those mad illustrations on the Kinnegar cans under the theme “Follow the hops”. “Kinnegarland” is illustrated by the inimitable Dermot Flynn www.dermotflynn.com 

They say: Yannaroddy Porter is rich in traditional dark roasted malt flavours laced with an exotic streak of coconut.

Hadn’t known about the coconut when I tried it but certainly the coffee and caramel are there in the aromas and on the flavour-packed palate. Black, of course, is the colour and the coffee coloured head is slow enough to vanish. It is velvety smooth, good acidity too on the way to a lip-smacking finish.

Not surprisingly, Yannaroddy is one of their core beers. The others are Scraggy Bay India Pale Ale, Limeburner Pale Ale, Devil’s Backbone (Amber Ale), Rustbucket Rye Ale, and Crossroads American Style IPA. By the way, they don’t filter or pasteurise, and let their industrious little friends, the yeast, carbonate the beer naturally during fermentation.

Founders “Porter” 6.5%, 355ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork

Co-Founders Mike Stevens and Dave Engbers opened the doors to the 9800 square foot Founders brewery in downtown Grand Rapids in 1997. But the years that followed were tough before the Michigan brewery’s rise to be one of the top rated in the world began in the opening years of this century.

Black is the expected colour of this “robust” porter and the head is coffee coloured. Sweet nose of malty chocolate and caramel. Silky on the palate, richly flavoured, sweetish, yet dry in the finish. Dark, Rich and Sexy, the label proclaims. Dark, Silky and Sweet, methinks. Perhaps a little too sweet for me. ABV is 6.5 while the IBU is 45.

By the way, you might like to try their Dark n’ Stormy cocktail, based on this porter. “This cocktail may look complicated, but rest-assured, even the least kitchen-savvy among us could recreate this with ease. Impress your friends and family this holiday season with this beauty.” All the details here 

Heaney “Irish Stout” 4.3%, 500ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork

This stout is from the Heaney Farmhouse Brewery in Co. Derry. It is black, with a coffee coloured head that loses volume pretty quickly. 

Stick your finger in the head and taste the coffee and chocolate which are more or less what you’ll get from the aromas. No oatmeal here but the palate is rich and smooth, caramel and chocolate and that roasted malt finish, a dry one also. Competition in the stout arena is quite stiff and this one is well up to the average.

Heaney’s always come up with food pairings and here they suggest slow-cooked meat dishes or a rich chocolate dessert.

White Gypsy “Old Smoke” 5.4%, 500ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork

Old Smoke was the nickname of John Morrissey, a boxer from Templemore (Co. Tipperary) - the home of White Gypsy - who gained fame and infamy for his exploits both in and out of the ring in the US during the 19th century. 

Is there much smoke here? Not really, but you certainly notice it in the malty aromas which mostly feature coffee and chocolate. Colour is a shade or two short of a solid black; nice head (cream/coffee in colour) but doesn’t hang around. Lovely beer though with mellow roasted flavours, with malt more to the fore. Not like your usual stout but I could easily go through a session with this very distinctive one!

They say:  Traditionally, beers made in the midlands would have had a slight smokiness due to the malt being dried from peat fires, this stout brings out that combination of smoke & roast while remaining light on the palate. Beer is a fantastic ingredient to use in cooking (and baking). A family favourite is an Old Smoke Stout Stew. 

Wikipedia: Smoked beer (German: Rauchbier) is a type of beer with a distinctive smoke flavour imparted by using malted barley dried over an open flame. The Rauchbiers of Bamberg in Germany, Schlenkerla in particular, are the best-known of the smoked beers.

Taste of the Week. Heaney Saison and Apricots

Taste of the Week

Heaney “Way Over Yonder” Saison and Apricots!

The Heaney “Way Over Yonder” Saison is a hazy beer from the County Derry farmhouse brewery. It pours a gold colour, with a fluffy head that hangs around for a bit. Fruity and slightly spicy in the aromas. Fruity too on the palate, apricots are suggested.

Apricots put me thinking. And then I realise I have a box of them in the cupboard, a box of unsulphured apricots from West Cork Olives via my Neighbourfood order. 

You hear a lot about sulphur in wine but it is commonly used also in fruits and other food items as well. The sulphured apricots are an attractive yellow while the unsulphured are a less attractive dark colour but I think they taste better.

Anyhow, I got a few to taste with the beer (sourced from Bradley's) and the pairing was absolutely perfect, a delicious Taste of the Week.

A Quart of Ale± #12. Moving on over to craft with IPAs by Thornbridge, White Hag, Heaney, and Brehon.

A Quart of Ale± #12

Moving on over to craft. 

India Pale Ale

Thornbridge “Jaipur” IPA 5.9%, 330ml can Bradley’s of Cork

Pale straw is the colour of this modern (2005) classic. Jaipur comes with over 100 worldwide awards. This iconic American style IPA has a complexity of flavour created by a six-dimensional hop experience.

Funnily enough, this is held up as an example of the English IPA in the Brewdog book Craft Beer for the People. Hard for us amateurs to determine the style of a beer if the likes of Thornbridge and Brew Dog can't agree. Anyhow, we'll have fun trying.

It wears this complexity lightly though and you’ll have no problem sipping your way through this beauty from the UK brewery. It has a fairly cloudy pale yellow colour and hoppy aromas (faint whiff of citrus, even fainter one of pine). Smooth on the palate, hoppy, citrus notes too, and a beautiful balance all the way to lip-smacking hoppy finish. Not too much more to say except that this is more or less the perfect IPA.

Match with Thai Curry, they say.

Hops: Chinook, Centennial, Ahtanum, Simcoe, Columbus, Cascade.

Malts: Low Colour Maris Otter.

The White Hag “Bran & Sceolan” 7.2%, 330ml can Bradley’s of Cork

A very pale amber, quite hazy. High levels of dry hopping in this one yield aromas of citrus. And that same citrus, now a juicy burst, makes for a delightful flavoursome palate, little if any sign of the high alcohol in the smooth mouthfeel. Terrific balance and an excellent drink overall. The IBU figure is 45 but, like the 7.2% abv, it is not a major factor for this drinker.

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They say: Bran and Sceolan were the two wolfhounds of warrior Fionn Mac Cumhaill, born to his aunt after she was magically transferred into an Irish Wolfhound by her husband’s ex lover. The story of these strong legends is as intense and complex as the flavours in this beer. An American-style IPA brewed with 100% Irish malt.

Heaney “Big Little IPA” 4.2%, 440ml can Bradley’s of Cork

Colour is yellow, a hazy yellow. The soft head is short-lived, not that it matters a while pile, unless you like the ice-cream look! Aromas are hoppy and fruity (exotic). Quite a hoppy fruity punch considering the abv, a big hitter for sure, and a bitter wash around the gums and lips with an edgy aftertaste. Wouldn’t recommend this if you were starting out on good quality ales but by all means go for it if you have been trying a few litres.

This is a farmhouse brewery and the water comes from the Heaney farm spring. Don’t think I’ve had a Heaney before. I can tell they’re in Bellaghy, Co. Derry. The Big Little is unfiltered, unpasteurised, and they recommend pairing it with spicy dishes. I don’t have an IBU for this but I’d imagine it is fairly high.

They say:  Big Little IPA. Only a little 4.2% but plenty of big hops to satisfy your hop desires. Soft bitterness, juicy citrus hops and a dry thirst quenching finish. Perfect for summer. Summer lol. It's summer right?

Brehon Brewhouse “Stony Grey” IPA 6.0%, 550ml bottle Bradley’s of Cork

This has a close to amber colour. Nice mix in the aromas, floral notes and hints from the malt. And much the same elements combine on the palate giving a terrific balance, smooth all the way to the dry finish. A very pleasant beer indeed. A superb beer actually and probably closer to a real English IPA than the others. 

I should be paying more attention here and have some more notes for you but I’m trying to watch Analyse This on a movie channel and they aren’t talking IPA, more like KIA*. In any event, it looks like I have another brewery to add to my short list as the recently tried Brehon’s Ulster Black Oatmeal Stout is another star.

They say: Great on its own but just perfect with spicy foods like Indian, Mexican, chicken wings or mild blue cheese, lemon curd cake or key lime pie. Serve around 8 degrees. Our small brewery is housed on the farm, just a short distance from the old homestead.We are set amongst the rolling drumlins of County Monaghan, just a few miles from the birthplace of Patrick Kavanagh, the inspiration for our India Pale Ale –  Stony Grey IPA.

* KIA Killed In Action.