Euro-toques Day Out. From Wood to Waterfall

Euro-toques Day Out

From Wood to Waterfall

Under the waterfall at Greene's: Pam, Kate, Christine.

From foggy morning to sunny afternoon, the Munster contingent of Euro-toques enjoyed their day out last Monday. That foggy morning was spent foraging mushrooms in a North Cork wood while the afternoon saw the chefs and guests tuck into a gorgeous late lunch in Greene’s by the Waterfall. Greene's head chef Bryan McCarthy put the day’s package together with a huge input from Mark and Lucy of Ballyhoura Mushrooms and sponsorship by Wines Direct and La Rousse Foods.

In the wood

It was quite an education in the woods and we all agreed you’d need more than one outing with an expert before trusting yourself in the mushroom field. Lots to take in as Mark and Lucy shared their in-depth knowledge.

“Chanterelles can't be cultivated, they are symbiotic. They grow from May to the first frost, have a sweet seafoody flavour and an apricot aroma when fresh. They have a solid stem. The false chanterelle has a hollow one. There are also autumn chanterelles, including a black one one called the Horn of Plenty, found in areas of pine, with a lovely woody flavour, our favourite!”.

In the wood (2): Caroline takes the higher ground;
Fionnula relaxes with her bag of food.
Bottom: "This one stinks!" (right)
and Gautham searching in the fog.
Note the polypores on the tree
on the left.

“Ceps are found near mature beech trees, When they are young they are snow white with a natural umami flavour, great texture and very versatile as regards use.” But maybe not as versatile as the Birch polypore which, when dried out, can be used to sharpen your kitchen knives!

Much more to be found out as the bus load of mostly amateurs spread out among the trees, watching out for branches springing back, muddy patches, cow pats, slippery slopes, briars, even barbed wire here and there. Still, despite a few minor tumbles, it turned out to be a terrific morning in the old deciduous wood and quite a few baskets were filled.

Cured organic Deenish Island Salmon

Back to the bus then and we arrived in Greene's in mid-afternoon sun be be greeted with cool glasses of La Contesse spumante.  Fionnula Harkin of Wines Direct, introduced us to Francesca of Le Contesse who told us about the family run vineyard, how the grapes are handpicked and that quality and consistency are prime considerations. Fionnula emphasised that this is the kind of vineyard that Wines Direct deals with, “family run vineyards, nothing industrial”.

Ross Lewis from Chapter One, a senior member of Euro-toques, then spoke. “Ireland has some of the best primary produce in the world. And Euro-toques is one big food family, passionately engaged with artisans. As the artisan movement gets stronger and stronger, Ireland's food will have its day in the sun.” He reported that tourists in his own restaurant are overwhelmingly positive about their experiences of Irish food.

Seared Wild Irish Venison Haunch Fillet
wine: Luc Lapeyre Les Clots (Languedoc)

And then it was time to sample some of that food. We had some beautiful nibbles by the waterfall in the sun before moving indoors to continue enjoying the produce of Ballyhoura Mushrooms, Wines Direct, Caroline Robinson Organic Vegetables, Kilbrack Farm, La Rousse Foods, Ummera, Jack McCarthy, Waterfall Farms, and Arbutus Breads. Greene’s chefs, like their Euro-toques colleagues nationwide are, as Ross Lewis said, “passionately engaged with artisans”. And this meal brilliantly underlined it!

• If you spot your favourite chef sprouting a moustache this month and next, he’s more than likely doing it for charity, all in aid of Movember who raise awareness and funds for prostrate cancer, testicular cancer and men’s health. Don’t leave it all to the chefs!

Poached Garden Pear & Wild Foraged Blackberry
wine: Le Contesse Pinot Rose.

Chef Bryan up for Greene's Challenge

Chef Bryan up for Greene's Challenge

Wine and Waterfall

West Cork chef Bryan McCarthy is back in Cork and at the helm in Greene’s in McCurtain Street. And he is looking forward to the new challenge. You can expect to see foraged items on the menu but his aim is for “simple food from the best of ingredients, cooked in a contemporary Irish style”.

Bryan is something of a forager himself but he will rely also on Ballyhoura Mushrooms and on Michelle Walshe for sea foraging. Greene’s have long used top local suppliers such as Ummera Smokery and Ardsallagh Goat Cheese and they continue to feature on the menu. The newly installed head chef has added Jack McCarthy (pork, bacon, including the famous black pudding, of course) and is looking forward to using even more of the fantastic vegetables from Waterfall Farm.

Jack Mac certainly stood out in my starter during last weekend's visit. Here the Black Pudding and Pork Belly featured with scallops, all served with apple and cider in a flavoursome combination.

Our other starter was also top drawer, featuring the Ummera Smoked Salmon served three ways, with Lemon, Beetroot, Crème Fraiche, Cucumber and Organic Leaves enhancing the superb West Cork product.

Bryan McCarthy is almost synonymous with the slow cooked Feather Blade of Hereford Beef in these parts and, served with Onion, Shiitake Mushroom and Mashed Potato, this tender tasty treat was impossible to resist and was as good as ever.

Pork Belly, Scallop and Black Pudding.

A superb dish also was the Duo of Lamb, with Beluga Lentils, Chorizo, Ballyhoura Oyster Mushroom and Ardsallagh Goat Cheese. By the way, in case you are getting worried, the menu still features a selection of fine fish dishes (after all, Bryan is from Leap). Poultry too, including Skeaghanore Duck, and Pigeon was introduced last Sunday!

No shortage of choice here. And they have a great Early Bird deal going, €27.00 for four courses up to 7.00pm at the weekend and all night earlier in the week. Service here is friendly and quite informed about the food. Helpful also. Just a small example. When we ordered herbal tea, they brought a whole box over to the table so that we could choose at our leisure.

We got a nice table by the floodlit waterfall and indeed there were two groups that got even closer, choosing to dine outside as the night was so mild. Almost forgot to tell you about the Amuse Bouche, well detailed by our helpful server. It was a Spinach Mousse with Smoked Duck. A good start to an excellent meal.

Local and Lovely at Greene’s

Local and Lovely at Greene’s

Dessert!

Great to walk into Greene’s the other night and see old friends like Ummera, Ardsallagh and Ballyhoura Mushrooms. Well, not see the people, but their excellent produce which features strongly on the new menu. So well done to new Spanish Chef Vero (Veronica) for sticking with the top local produce and for handling it and cooking it so splendidly. We had a terrific meal.

Started off with some lovely breads. The brown, with some Guinness involved, was outstanding. Then came an Amuse Bouche, a chilled Beetroot Soup. A few excellent spoonfuls and the taste-buds were wide awake and ready for the starter.

Had already enjoyed some smoked salmon at lunch-time so had to pass on the Ummera and choose the Chicken Madeira Paté, Pickled Cucumber, toasted Sourdough Baguette. Really well presented and very enjoyable indeed. CL’s Prawn and Crab cakes with orange and grapefruit segments and coriander crème fraiche and lime and ginger was on the lighter side and very tasty indeed.

Top: Amuse, Prawn & Crab cakes
Middle: Duck
Bottom: Pate and Risotto

Have come across some excellent risottos recently and Vero’s Risotto with Ballyhoura Wild Mushrooms with truffle oil and a rocket salad was well up to that high standard. Great aromas, great flavours and really good value as well. 

While I went to North Cork for my mains, CL travelled west and came up with Skeaghanore Farm Duck Breast with Ratatouille stuffed Tomato, Confit Potatoes, Red Wine and Shallot Sauce, another impressive dish. That stuffed tomato was a nice touch.

Now the line was in sight and dessert loomed. We called it a draw and shared the splendid looking and splendid tasting Millefeuilleof Pineapple Crisps with Lemon Curd and Raspberries with blueberry and Violet Sorbet. Light and lovely. Just like herself!

Oh, nearly forgot to tell you about the wine. They have quite a long list here and we compromised on a red, the Il Bucco Abruzzo Montepulciano 2011, with sweet dark fruits but well balanced and a smooth finish. So after that gorgeous dessert, two happy customers made a smooth exit, taking a long glance at the waterfall as we headed for the archway onto the street.

Champagne Dinner at Greene’s

Champagne Dinner at Greene’s

Bruno Paillard comes to town

A dinner with a difference at Greene’s of McCurtain Street this week. Not alone was champagne served with each course but it was also used as an ingredient in each.

This marriage of the wine-making skills at Bruno Paillard and the cooking skills of Green’s French chef Frederic Desormeaux meant we enjoyed a super evening.

Scallop

François Colas of Bruno Paillard, who kept us informed on the wines, was loud in his praise of Fred afterwards: “He was able to read the wines, especially with the dessert.”

Fred was much too modest to take all the praise for himself and introduced us to his sous chef Veronica and also to Nicky, the man responsible for the excellent dessert.

Turbo

The evening got off to a terrific  start with a warm greeting from Sylvia and Collette of Greene’s and a glass of bubbly poured by Searson’s Damien Archer-Good (the man who covers Waterford, Cork and Kerry for the company). Not just any bubbly, mind you. This was the Brut Premier Cuvée, full bodied, well flavoured and balanced, all elegance in the glass and on the palate.

The starter was Pan-Fried King’s Scallops on Julienne of Leeks and Carrots, “Blanc de Blancs” Beurre Nantais. Under “directions” from Francois, we had a sip of the second wine, before we took a bite and the Blanc de Blancs Réserve Privée did seem a little on the austere side.

But all that changed when we had a bite of the scallop and another sip. Now it had a different personality and we could endorse the opinion of a certain Robert Parker: “A fresh, bright sparkler, it will be found particularly successful if paired with food.”

Choucroute de la Mer

Two fish courses followed and gave us the opportunity to sample the first two wines again and, more importantly, to appreciate the different qualities of each. The Blanc de Blanc is 100% Chardonnay while the Brut is 22% Pinot Meunier, 33% Chardonnay and 22% Pinot Noir.

The first fish course was Grilled Turbot served with baby carrots, baby fennel, baby courgette, baby leeks gratinated with “Rosé Premiere Cuvée” Hollandaise. Superb.

The second, which provided a stiffer challenge for the champagne, was Choucroute de la Mer: Monkfish, Natural Smoked Haddock, Mussels, Langoustine, Sauerkraut cabbage, Baby Turned potatoes, finished with Cream “Blanc de Blancs”. Some strong flavours there, especially from the haddock and the lovely sauerkraut, but the champagne was well up to it.

Dessert

Fred and Veronica

 And then for that desert: Winter Berries and “Rose Premiere Cuvee” Jelly, topped with raspberries Sorbet, Tuile. An absolute gorgeous desert and it went so well with the Rosé Premiere Cuvée, “a very hard wine to get consistent” according to Francois.

It is produced from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay “in secret proportions” and a rather difficult technical process gives its “unique fruity flavour and gorgeous copper-gold hue”. It has inviting red fruit aromas; even if blindfolded, you’ll know you have a rosé in your hand! And the palate is fruity and fresh. It is dry of course and hence the need to avoid serving it with sweet desserts. Fred and Nicky read that info correctly to come up with the perfect match!

Bruno Gaillard, who sold his car (a big one) to start making champagne in 1989, is a “baby” in the history of the famous wine but a baby who has made a major impact. Read more of the fascinating story here 

Classy Burger at Greene’s

Classy Burger at Greene’s

Not a regular burger man but all that could change after polishing off a tremendous one at Greene’s Restaurant in McCurtain Street. Called in there one wet lunch-hour last week and got a gorgeous surprise when welcomed by Sylvia. We were there to try the bar food, which they serve from noon ‘til five. Knowing the work of Fred, the chef here, we expected it to be good. Sylvia confirmed that and then of course the meal itself was proof positive.

Our waitress soon brought us the menu which has a soup, the Burger, a Pasta dish and a number of baguette sandwich choices, not to mention one or two desserts. Enough to be going on with. We each picked the Soup of the Day (Potato and Leek) and the Burger.

Started with the soup and then came the Burger, my second of the week. The first was a mini version at the launch of Fresco Bistro. And what they had in common was top quality meat. The Greene’s one was served with a Jalapeno relish, smoked cheddar cheese and duck fat fries.

The melted cheese added to the experience as did the excellent relish, neither as red nor as sharp as some others, and the fries. Quite a lot of eating here and great value at a tenner. Oh, forgot to mention the bap. I usually leave at least half but this was so tasty in its own right that barely a crumb survived.

Quite possibly the best burger I’ve tasted and glad to have had a glass of the quality house wine, a Cabernet Sauvignon, to accompany it. Excellent service too and comfortable seats in the bar area all helped.

GREENE’S BY THE WATERFALL

GREENE’S: THE GEM BY THE WATERFALL

Loved a classic Coq au Vin @Greenescork last night! And a glass of Jumilla Monastrell. French dish, Spanish wine, local ingredients, 5 stars.

That’s the way I summed up Wednesday’s meal in Greene’s Restaurant in McCurtain Street. But Twitter’s 140 characters may have been better used had I included their Paris born chef Frederic Desormeaux.

I had noticed his expertise and innovation during a stop at the restaurant during the Cork Gourmet Trail and had promised myself a return visit. I wasn't at all disappointed.

I am amazed that queues don't form outside Greene’s on a  regular basis such is the quality of the food, the ambiance of the place with it big glass window by the waterfall, it’s comfortable restful decor and its friendly, informative and efficient service team.

It wasn't the best of nights weatherwise yet still that waterfall added a certain je ne sais quoi to the occasion as we sat at our window table. There are two menus here, an Early Bird that has four courses (with choices) for €27.00 and the A La Carte.

We picked the latter on this occasion and made our order. Our wait was shortened by the appearance of an amuse bouche: a little round fishcake on a beautiful sauce. We also had a bowl of tasty breads.

Wines were ordered: a glass of Rioja Tempranillo and one of Jumilla Monastrell, each around the six euro mark. They have a wide ranging wine list and quite a few are available by the glass, some by the half bottle.

CL chose the Gratinated Mussels with Garlic & Lemon Butter, Parsley Crust (€9.00) as her starter. Excellent and very tasty, a great change from the more usual Moules Marinieres in one version or the other.

Mine was perhaps a bit more substantial but also very very tasty, quite a mix of flavours (the tomatoes were absolutely top class) and all in all a terrific starter: Grilled Buffalo Mozzarella wrapped in Serrano Ham on Grilled Asparagus, with caramelised Cherry Tomatoes on Mini Pizza Pastry, Rocket Pesto (€10.50).

We’ve had a quite few Coq au Vin over the years, most notably in the Dordogne the summer before last, and I can honestly say that the Greene’s version is the best yet. In France, you tend to get the tougher bits of older chicken. But in Greene’s they use local free range chicken in the most fantastic sauce. Had a few doubts about the mashed potato but it proved a perfect partner, helping take up the sauce. We had a spoon as well – you didn't want to leave any of it behind!

The menu description: Classic Coq au Vin - Free Range Breast of Irish Chicken Cooked in Red Wine, Smoked Lardons, Baby Onions, Girolle Mushrooms served with Creamy Scallion Mash (€21.00).

GREENE'S (by the waterfall)

GREENE’S   

What did we ever do before butternut squash?

That question was popped in Greene’s Restaurant (by the waterfall) last evening as Dine in Cork Week continued with yet another smashing meal for €25.00.

The butternut squash came in one of the starters where it was combined with Ardsallagh Goats Cheese in a Spring roll, quite a large one, served with mixed baby leaves and a beetroot dressing. We both enjoyed one.

Then on to the main courses. The West Cork confit of duck leg was on  parmesan mash, braised red cabbage and a rosemary jus. An excellent deep plateful though the strongish aroma of the Rosemary jus permeated everything.

We also had the 8 oz ribeye steak, with a brandy pepper sauce. It was cooked to perfection and the presentation was impressive as the dauphnoise potato stack had a neat layer of onion added before being crowned with a Portobello mushroom. Enjoyed that one!

I went for the Irish Liqueur Crème Caramel. It was a lovely dessert but I must say the Crème Brule across the table was really one of the best we’ve ever come across and to top it off it was served with a few delicious homemade shortbread biscuits and ice-cream, a real five star treat.

Very happy too with our bottle of the house red (c €23.00),  a Sicilian Ca'di Ponti Nero D'Avola 2008. It was a juicy, easy-drinking treat with “ripe black cherry and plum fruit” and a hint of spice. Coffee was also included in the price and needless to say we got a friendly welcome and excellent service. Highly recommended. Got out and try that Dine in Cork menu. Most restaurants, including Greene’s have four choices per course and you won't go wrong!

www.greenesrestaurant.com/

Tel +353 21 4552279

Greenes Restaurant McCurtain Street Cork

GREENES

Had coffee and scones in Greenes by the waterfall this Saturday morning. Great coffee, great scone (not to mention jam and cream) – all well presented by a friendly waitress. Sat back in the comfortable chairs and enjoyed it very much indeed. Cost for two: €10.40.

It was one of the three best coffee and scone combinations that I've enjoyed recently around town. Nash 19 and the Hawthorn Bar on the Lough were the others.

Check out my review of Greenes Restaurant Hotle Isaacs - I am cork - on Qype

WONDERFALL

EARLY BIRD SCORES AGAIN

(but sting in the tail...)

Greene’s, the restaurant by the waterfall in McCurtain Street, is a little bit pricier. But it is also a little bit better. I sampled their early bird (€28.00) recently and felt I had struck a culinary jackpot.

Starter was the Prawns Scampi (see menu illustration). They and the wedges looked scarce enough on the plate but were quite sufficient as a starter. Not just sufficient. They were excellent.

Main course was the Salmon. Oh, so tasty. And the vegetable accompaniment was also brilliant. The Advisor opted for the Toulouse Sausage. She doesn’t go far wrong. Indeed, she wasn't wrong at all. It was absolutely splendid and the Red Wind jus was one of the best sauces of its kind that we’ve ever come across.

After all that, we said we’d settle for a simple dessert and the Crème Caramel seemed to fit the bill. Again there was surprise. The citron just made this plate. Again so tasty. Demolishable!!! But at a leisurely pace.

Service was the usual league of nations that we’ve come to expect in Ireland. But that is only half the story. The young people smiled. They were friendly and above all they were efficient.

By the way, my wine was yet another Pinot Grigio. Again this one (€22.5) was from the Venice region but was tarty and bright and came quite close to matching the bottle from the Trentino region that I found so appealing in Switzerland (see Swissroll07.blogspot.com).

Oh Oh! After that so positive review, sad to report that during that night and into the following day, each of us suffered from an upset stomach! Arret