Michelin Reveal. All the stars (and bibs) Ireland and UK

press release

 The MICHELIN Guide Great Britain and Ireland 2022:

a great selection to celebrate the dynamic culinary scene

 

L’Enclume is awarded Three MICHELIN Stars

 

Lighthouse view from Ballycotton's CUSH, a Bib Gourmand Winner.

5 new Two Star and 19 new One Star restaurants join the selection

 

The outstanding sustainable commitments of 9 restaurants are celebrated with a MICHELIN Green Star

 

 

Michelin is pleased to present its 2022 selection of restaurants for Great Britain and Ireland. With a total of 1285 restaurants, including 194 MICHELIN Stars and 122 Bib Gourmands, the 2022 vintage is made even more momentous by the impressive number of new Stars in this year’s selection. With 1 new Three Star, 5 new Two Stars and 19 new One Stars joining the selection, the 2022 Guide offers an impressive illustration of the vibrancy, creativity and excellence of the British and Irish culinary scenes.

 

Due to the on-going pandemic and safety considerations for chefs, restaurateurs and the MICHELIN team, this year’s launch of the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain and Ireland took place in a digital format only, via Instagram, Twitter and the MICHELIN Guide website.

 

 

Gwendal Poullennec, International Director of the MICHELIN Guides said: “Naturally we were disappointed to be unable to host this event in person. However, we wanted to celebrate the achievements of the country’s top chefs, who have fought hard not only to survive, but to excel in these challenging times. To award so many new Stars this year, including one new Three Star, is testament to the determination and resilience of those working in the hospitality industry – not just the chefs, but those involved at every level.”

 

 

1 New Three MICHELIN Star Restaurant

 

• L’Enclume, Cartmel, Cumbria – Chef Simon Rogan

Promoted from Two MICHELIN Stars. Also holds a MICHELIN Green Star.

 

It would be hard to find a restaurant more immersed in the region in which its located than L'Enclume and the Lake District. It earned its first MICHELIN Star in 2005 and its second in 2013 – and is currently celebrating its 20^th year. In that time, it has never stood still, establishing its own farm, showcasing the region's finest ingredients and following a strong sustainable ethos. An enormous amount of time and creativity goes into every superbly crafted, stimulating dish, which makes eating at this highly accomplished restaurant a truly memorable experience.

 

L’Enclume becomes the eighth Three MICHELIN Starred restaurant in the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2022.

 

 

5 New Two MICHELIN Star Restaurants

 

• Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen, Dublin – Chef Mickael Viljanen

New addition to the Guide

• The Clove Club, Shoreditch, London – Chef Isaac McHale

Promoted from One MICHELIN Star

• Ikoyi, St James’s, London – Chef Jeremy Chan

Promoted from One MICHELIN Star

• Liath, Blackrock, Dublin – Chef Damien Grey

Promoted from One MICHELIN Star

• Ynyshir, Machynlleth, Powys – Chef Gareth Ward

Promoted from One MICHELIN Star

 

It’s a great year for Dublin, which sees not just one, but two restaurants awarded Two MICHELIN Stars. Finnish-born Mickael Viljanen moved from the south to the north of the Liffey to become co-owner at Chapter One, and his restaurant goes straight into the Guide with Two Stars – a rare feat. Meanwhile Liath, an intimate restaurant located within a bohemian suburban market and run by passionate Australian chef-owner Damien Grey, is promoted from One to Two MICHELIN Stars.

 

In London there are two promotions. At The Clove Club, Isaac McHale’s flagship – which was first awarded a Star in 2014 – his high aspirations and determination to continually move forward have resulted in creative, exceptionally balanced cuisine. While at Ikoyi – which earned its first Star in 2019 – meticulous sourcing and a focus on the organic and the biodynamic comes together with Jeremy Chan’s clever approach to flavours and passion for West African spices, to create some truly original dishes.

 

In Wales, Ynyshir – which has held One MICHELIN Star since 2015 – has also been promoted. Here, the larger-than-life chef-owner Gareth Ward provides one of the most unique and immersive dining experiences in the country. Diners are all served at the same time – and are taken on an extraordinary journey of 30 exhilarating courses, where Welsh produce is enhanced by Asian influences.

 

These 5 new additions to the Two MICHELIN Star category brings the total number of Two Starred restaurants in this year’s Guide  to 22.

 

19 New One MICHELIN Star Restaurants

 

• The Barn, Aughton, Lancashire – chef Nathan Cornwell
• Bastible, Dublin – Barry Fitzgerald
• Bridge Arms, Bridge, Canterbury – chef Daniel Smith

New addition to the Guide

• Dog and Gun Inn, Skelton, Cumbria – chef Ben Queen-Fryer
• Evelyn's Table, Soho, London – chef Luke Selby

New addition to the Guide. Also Winner of the Young Chef Award.

• Frog by Adam Handling, Covent Garden, London – chef Adam Handling
• The Glenturret Lalique, Crieff, Perthshire – chef Mark Donald

New addition to the Guide

• Glovers Alley, Dublin – chef Andy McFadden
• Home, Penarth, Cardiff – chef James Sommerin

New addition to the Guide

• Jamavar, Mayfair, London – chef Surender Mohan
• Kol, Marylebone, London – chef Santiago Lastra

New addition to the Guide

• Meadowsweet, Holt, Norfolk – chef Greg Anderson

New addition to the Guide

• Pine, East Wallhouses, Northumberland – chef Cal Byerley

New addition to the Guide. Also awarded a MICHELIN Green Star.

• Sollip, Southwark, London – chef Woongchul Park
• SY23, Aberystwyth, Ceredigion – chef Nathan Davies

New addition to the Guide. Also Winner of the Opening of the Year Award.

• Trivet, Southwark, London – chef Jonny Lake
• Unalome by Graeme Cheevers, Glasgow – chef Graeme Cheevers

New addition to the Guide

• Upstairs by Tom Shepherd, Lichfield, Staffordshire – chef Tom Shepherd

New addition to the Guide

• Wild Honey St James, St James’s, London – chef Anthony Demetre        

 

London sees seven restaurants awarded One MICHELIN Star. Two are new additions: Evelyn’s Table, a 12-seater restaurant in the cellar of a Georgian pub (where the three chefs are also the winners of the Young Chef Award), and Kol – with its appealing menu of contemporary Mexican dishes. Five restaurants are also promoted: Frog by Adam Handling, Adam’s flagship restaurant serving colourful, beautifully presented dishes; Jamavar, which offers skilfully prepared, authentic Indian food; Sollip, where French techniques combine with the owners’ Korean heritage; Trivet, where modern dishes exhibit real clarity and confidence; and Wild Honey St James, where Anthony Demetre’s experience shines through in accomplished cooking.

 

To the North of England, Pine, where foraging, ethical sourcing and sustainable practices are key, is added to the Guide with both a MICHELIN Star and a MICHELIN Green Star. There are also two promotions: The Barn, which uses the kitchen garden to create flavour-packed dishes; and the Dog and Gun Inn (a former Bib Gourmand), a no-nonsense pub serving bold, hearty food.

 

Elsewhere, three new additions gain MICHELIN Stars. In the Midlands, Upstairs by Tom Shepherd, where refined British dishes have subtle Asian influences. To the East, Meadowsweet, a serene experience which offers a meticulously delivered tasting menu of local ingredients. And to the South, the Bridge Arms, where well-balanced dishes have a wholesome feel.

 

In Wales, MICHELIN Stars go to two new additions to the guide: Home – run by James Sommerin and his family – where dishes showcase the Welsh larder; and SY23 (also winner of the Opening of the Year Award), where the charcoal grill is used to good effect.

 

Scotland sees the sophisticated Glenturret Lalique, set within Scotland’s oldest working whisky distillery, and Unalome by Graeme Cheevers – with its bold, classically inspired dishes – both newly added to the guide with a MICHELIN Star.

 

In the Republic of Ireland, two restaurants are promoted: relaxed neighbourhood spot Bastible, where stripped-back dishes deliver bold flavours; and Glovers Alley, which overlooks St Stephen’s Green and serves sophisticated, artfully presented dishes.

 

Including the previously awarded restaurants which have maintained their distinction this year, the MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2022 lists 164 One MICHELIN Star restaurants.

 

9 New MICHELIN Green Star Restaurants

 

Introduced in 2021, the MICHELIN Green Star highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices.

 

These restaurants offer dining experiences that combine culinary excellence with outstanding eco-friendly commitments – and are a source of inspiration both for keen foodies and the hospitality industry as a whole.

 

Newly awarded for 2022 are:

 

• CHAPTERS, Hay-on-Wye, Powys (chef Mark McHugo)

New addition to the Guide

• Marle, Heckfield, Hampshire (chef Michael Chapman)
• Moor Hall, Aughton, Lancashire (chef Mark Birchall)

Also holds Two MICHELIN Stars

• Oak, Bath, Somerset (chef Pete Ellis)
• Pensons, Tenbury Wells, Worcestershire (chef Chris Simpson)

Also holds One MICHELIN Star

• Pine, East Wallhouses, Northumberland (chef Cal Byerley)

New addition to the Guide. Also awarded One MICHELIN Star.

• Terroir Tapas, Bournemouth, Dorset (chef Jesse Wells)

New addition to the Guide

• Tillingham, Peasmarsh, East Sussex (chef Tom Ryalls)

New addition to the Guide

• Wilsons, Bristol (chef Jan Ostle)

 

 

Special Award Winners

 

For 2022, five special awards were presented. These highlight exceptional people and remarkable teams who have particularly impressed the MICHELIN Inspectors over the past year.

 

• Chef Mentor, sponsored by Blancpain – Philip Howard at Elystan Street

Philip Howard held Two MICHELIN Stars for 17 years at The Square, where he established himself as one of the UK’s leading chefs. He is a “chef’s chef”, who doesn’t shout about his achievements, and the fact that he can still be found behind the stove demonstrates his passion and focus. Many great chefs have passed through his kitchens.

 

• Young Chef – Luke, Nathaniel and Theo Selby at Evelyn's Table

For the first time, this award celebrates not just one but three young chefs – the three brothers who run Evelyn’s Table. Having so far kept their working lives separate, they have now come together to form an unbeatable trio, who exude infectious enthusiasm.

 

• Welcome and Service – Dale Dewsbury at Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles

Huge smiles, a passion for their craft and a skill for anticipating guests’ needs creates an exceptional service experience here. For over 20 years Dale has not only led by example but has supported, encouraged and shared his knowledge with his wonderful team – who would make the late Andrew Fairlie proud.

 

• Sommelier – Isa Bal at Trivet

Part-owner of Trivet, Isa has had an illustrious career which has spanned over 20 years, including 12 years as Head Sommelier at The Fat Duck. He skilfully suggests wine pairings from a passionately compiled, highly original list, and is an admirable torchbearer for lesser-known regions.

 

• Opening of the Year – SY23 in Aberystwyth

Fun, contemporary SY23 brings a breath of fresh air to this quaint seaside town. There’s a buzzy bar, a vibrant soundtrack and a lively atmosphere – and the open kitchen with its charcoal grill takes centre stage. The 9-course menu of European and Asian dishes is served to everyone at the same time.

 

 

16 New MICHELIN Bib Gourmands

 

16 new Bib Gourmand restaurants were revealed on Friday 11^th February, ahead of the MICHELIN Star Revelation. Click here for more details.

 

 

Overview of The MICHELIN Guide Great Britain & Ireland 2022

 

- 8 restaurants awarded Three MICHELIN Stars o, of which 1 is new

- 22 restaurants awarded Two MICHELIN Stars n, of which 5 are new

- 164 restaurants awarded One MICHELIN Star m, of which 19 are new

-  31 restaurants awarded a MICHELIN Green Star, of which 9 are new

- 122 restaurants awarded a MICHELIN Bib Gourmand =, of which 16 are new

 

 

The full MICHELIN Guide Great Britain and Ireland 2022 was published in digital format this morning, 16 February, both on the website and app:

 

• UK Website: https://guide.michelin.com/gb/en
• Republic of Ireland Website: https://guide.michelin.com/ie/en
• iOS App:

https://apps.apple.com/gb/app/michelin-guide-worldwide/id1541129177

• Android App: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.viamichelin.android.gm21&referrer=utm_source%3Dgm%26utm_medium%3Dweb%26utm_content%3Dpopup%26utm_campaign%3Dsg

A Quart of Ale± #93. On the craft journey with The Beer Bible by Jeff Alworth

 A Quart of Ale± #93

On the craft journey with The Beer Bible.

First published in 2015, The Beer Bible has been fully updated by author Jeff Alworth (see his Beervana website here) and this second edition was published late last year. We take a quick look to give you some idea of what is packed into its well over 600 pages….

Jeff starts with an invite: Whoever you are in beer, newbie or expert, and whatever your reasons, thumb through and drop into the sections that interest you. This doorstopper of a book is designed to be read in pieces.

It is an updated and extensive reference book of beer and will remain so for years to come. Not just craft beer, by the way. The bible will get you familiar with the current scene but if you want to delve into the history of beer, well that’s there too. 

You’ll find articles on traditions, styles and on “beers to know” within each style, on places to visit in your quest for a good drink and knowledge or both. Interesting, sometimes quirky shorts here and there such as Pliny the Elder recommending hops, long before they were used to spice beer, for their tasty shoots which he called “Gallic Asparagus”.

Undoubtedly, there is much to know about beer but, as the author says ”you don’t need to take a college course in theory to understand…”. You don't have to be a mechanic to be able to enjoy driving. For all that, a little extra knowledge will help the beer drinker along the route of discovery.

Just a brick in the wall!
Bradleys

And the good news, Alworth declares, is that the beer drinker has never had it so good. The choice is huge! And confusing! I’m regularly bemused when I visit the legendary "wall of beer" in Bradleys - Cork city’s most famous craft beer bottle shop (which started life as a diary in 1850).

The book will help you find not necessarily the best beer in the world but more likely your favourite styles from the many available nowadays. It will certainly point you in the direction of better beer. And the best beer in the world? 

Well that would be a jug of Einbecker beer, the “best beer known to man” according to no less than Martin Luther, defending himself in front of the Assembly of the Holy Roman Empire. Einbeck, always associated with quality was, even before the 16th century,  a famous beer-exporting town and is featured in Alworth’s discussion of Bocks, Germany’s strong “sipping beers”.

Good guidance from Jeff in the 644 pages of The Beer Bible but you’ll have to do some “work” yourself, do a bit more than just read. He encourages you to experience the beer and that means slowing down a little, ignoring  what is going on around you (even if you miss Ronaldo’s latest goal), giving you the space to see, smell, sip and swallow. Not very difficult and the rewards are high!

From Baltimore, West Cork

There are six key parts (I'm calling them sections) in The Bible. The first gives you your bearings - the 12,000 year history of beer is summarised and you get to begin to understand national traditions along with how beer is made from water, grain, hops, and yeast, and how to taste it like a brewer.

And he doesn’t just skim the surface here, or in any other section. For instance, there is a detailed diagram showing the “Anatomy of a Hop” and a page on wild yeasts and bacteria. The info is relayed without any great reliance on long multi-syllable words that might turn an amateur off. Of course, necessary terms such as Brettanomyces, are included.

Section 2 concentrates on the Classic Ales, from English Bitters to European Ales, from stouts to weizens. “The world’s best bitters come from Britain…” he declares. And the British beer family, based on its long original craft traditions, on its hop growing and on its brewing skills, get a well deserved series of pages of coverage packed with terrific insight.

In the pages on stout and porter we read: “By the 1840s, more than 80 percent of Guinness’s rapidly growing capacity was comprised of stout… much was shipped to England.... Ireland’s deep thirst for porters and stouts was such that it could support three large breweries: Guinness in Dublin and Beamish and Murphys in Cork.” The modern Guinness Foreign Extra Stout gets a big thumbs up with Porterhouse Plain Porter and O’Hara’s Leann Folláin sharing the limelight.

Much, much more, detail in Section 2 which runs to over 200 pages and includes excellent information on quite a few countries, Britain as mentioned, and especially on Belgium’s fascinating beer history and on the equally fascinating beers themselves.

Section 3 is all about the Classic Lagers, dark to gold, well known and lesser known. Nowhere near as long as the previous section, yet it is a large chunk of pages and very comprehensive, even including a few pages on mass-market beers. Coverage on German and Czech lagers is detailed.

Insightful pages abound, like the one entitled “The Great Decoction Debate”, an interesting little read for many, including the crew at Dublin’s Whiplash no doubt!

Author Jeff takes a look at mass-market lagers, pointing out that, contrary to many craft aficionado’s opinions, there can be differences between them and he hints strongly that the Italian Peroni may be the best of the European offerings.

Having read this section, you’ll have a good idea about pale lagers, Pilsners, Helles, Dortmund Exports, amber lagers like Marzens and Viennas, and the really dark ones such as Dunkels and Schwarzbiers, and about the mid European lager tradition in general. Also the history behind it, with border changes and population expulsions all part of the story. 

And then there’s the "Budweiser Conundrum”, the long lasting story of more than a century of rancour and lawsuits. The tale of the two Budweisers is “full of drama and irony” and is briefly related here.

Through the book, some fascinating beer visits (pilgrimages!) are detailed. In this Section, you can plan a trip to Austria “on the trail of Vienna lager, or to Plzeñ (Pilsen) in Czechia, the home of the original Pilsner.

Lots of loose ends and disputes in and around lager but most agree that when you sip one “you’re largely experiencing the soft wholesome flavour of the malts and the delicate spice of the hops…” And we love it.  Remember that lager makes up “ more than 90% of the world’s beer production…” Cheers!

Lesser known styles are covered in Section 4. A highlight for me was the author’s visit to Germany’s Bamberg and his story of its Rauchbiers, starting in the Spezial Brewery. And its crosstown rival Schlenkerla is the focus of a more detailed story a few pages later.

American IPAs “brewed as a celebration of hops” have quickly encircled the globe and that is confirmed and discussed in Section 5 which is entitled American Hoppy Ales. “In a conservative estimate, 40,000 are made each year in the United States alone”.

He lists quite a few of the leading examples and it looks as if Tree House is the current champion. Their “Punch” is the one to look out for with Jeff saying “it’s hard to believe only one hop (Galaxy) was used”. Will be difficult to get your hands on this though as it seems it’s available only at the brewery.

Info too on Sake beers and also on European Farmhouse Ales (mostly from Lithuania) and even on rarely seen ales in this country where ingredients may include herbs, spices, fruits and vegetables.

Yeast is king here!

Tart and Wild Ales feature in Section 5 which is sub divided into pieces on the Lambic family, the Red-Brown Ales of Flanders, Tart German beers (Berliner Weisses and Roses) and Wild Ales.

Lambics are rare, made using a process of wild fermentation and here the author deals with “this ancient remnant, once almost extinct - this dinosaur we call clumsily “tart”, “sour” or “wild”".

Donegal's Kinnegar and their busy canning line

Jeff lists some leading lambics by reliable producers and I know quite a few may be found in Ireland. Certainly Bradley’s carry a few including Boon Geuze Marriage Parfait. They stock quite a few Belgian producers including Cantillon and that brewery gets a few pages to itself in The Bible. Coolship Ales are yet another type of Belgian ale and Land & Labour in Galway are one of a handful of Irish brewers trying this method.

The Red-Brown ales of Flanders are available here, certainly the Rodenbach Grand Cru. This is the first example on the Bible list and indeed the brewery also gets a feature. And if you can’t get a Belgian import (even if you do!) try the excellent Old Brown by Mescan Brewery (one of the partners is a Belgian) that operates in County Mayo.

Mescan's Old Brown

So now, you’ve read the book and gained your practical experience. What to do with all that knowledge and beer? Here's a Bible tip: remember when buying that brown bottles and cans are the best bet. Back now to Section Six to find out how to serve and store beer, how to pair it with food, how to enjoy it in the pub and indeed how to take a beer trip at home or abroad. He covers cellaring and the type of glass to use and much more.

Food and beer pairing can vary in importance from country to country. Belgian breweries, often with their own restaurants, give it a high importance and here in Ireland too brewers, at least some, provide matching info. Hard to beat Eight Degrees in that respect though Mescan’s website features an excellent flavour matching wheel. By the way, The Beer Bible says: “… no beers are as well suited to food as Amber lagers.”

A Rodenbach cocktail at a Franciscan Well Festival in Cork

In the pub? Well, if you travel a lot, you’ll need to be able to say or shout cheers in many tongues - skål in Scandinavia, Gan Bēi in China, and Proost in Holland, along with Sláinte of course. The Bible has quite a few tips!

You'll see some very clear and informative charts throughout the book. And lots of photos. But most of these have had what looks like an old-fashioned filter applied; the results are generally dull, lacking  sparkle. That's about the only downside though.

Quite an appendix brings this massive bible to a close. It includes a glossary and very interesting Style Origin Maps. And the all-important index for all that dipping in and dipping out and dipping in again and……  You may put this book down but never for long!

One of my top beers of 2021. Pic via Whiplash

* The Beer Bible by Jeff Alworth, Workman Publishing 2021, $24.95. The first edition was published in 2015 and this second edition is fully revised and updated, so make sure you leave the bookshop with the one published in late 2021. It is available in Ireland via Eason’s and The Book Depository, among others.

•• #reviewcopy

Small Plates by Chef Pat Kiely a Big Success at Vikki's

Small Plates by Chef Pat Kiely

a Big Success at Vikki's 

With the fire gently warming the room on winter nights or the sunshine in the garden in the the longer days of the coming spring, along with Chef Pat Kiely in the kitchen, an improved menu and an improved wine list, you have all the ingredients for a lovely meal here at Vikki’s Kitchen and Garden in Sundays Well. 

“Chef Pat Kiely?”, you may well ask. “The chef that was in Les Gourmandises?.” The very man. Regarded by some of his peers as one of the best in Ireland, Pat can now be found in the kitchen of Vikki’s bringing his skills, his experience, his attention to detail, to an attractive menu of small plates.

Pork Belly. Pic via Vikki's

And the upgrade from tapas to small plates is not the only one at the pleasant venue that was once the local post office. During Friday’s visit, I learned that the wine lists has also improved (including ports and sherries) and that there are plans afoot to lift quality at the restaurant in general, not that there was much wrong with before. So positive news from a venue that, like all others of its kind, has endured close on two bumpy years.

So how did opening night go last week? Very well and full of promise for the months ahead as far as the two of us were concerned. The highlight was perhaps the Malabar Baked Cod (13.50). The flesh of the cod was pristine, firm enough yet moist and that pearly white was lifted to exquisite heights by the marinade of fragrant coconut masala plus a moderate spice from the curry leaf mayonaisse.  Umami or what?

Delicious Basque Cheesecake

There are no starters as such - well there is a soup: the classic French Onion, served with Cheddar Cheese Crouton. Another that might fit that category is the Ham Terrine that’s accompanied  by apple purée, hazelnuts and sourdough croûtes.

We ordered two dishes to start with and two to follow. One of our earlier ones was Roasted Aubergine (9.50) and this came with crispy tofu, baby onions, confit tomato and rocket salad. This expertly executed plateful may well have converted me to tofu. Certainly Mr Kiely’s cubes were rich and satisfying and the best example of the food that I’ve come across and will make me more inclined to try it in the future.   

Miso and Ginger Braised Pork Belly (12.50), served with sweet and sour apple and peanut crumbs, was a terrific pairing indeed. Quite a little riot of texture and flavour going on here and we really loved it, the soft flesh beautifully flavoured with miso and ginger, the sweet and sour of the apple slices and the gentle crunch of nuts.

Panna Cotta 

And all those dishes were sped on their way thanks to two lovely wines, one from Beaujolais and the other a Picpoul de Pinet. I can also recommended their own Blue Haven Collection Sauvignon Blanc by Better Half in Marlborough, New Zealand. Look out too for the the Abadia de Seixo Albariño and you find other by-the-glass options on the list and in their wine of the month selections, a trio of red and a trio of white. The list is quite long and deserves more time than I gave it! Would be a help if it appeared on their social media - then I could have a long leisurely look before I visit!

Aubergine

Just a week or so after we enjoyed a gorgeous Basque Cheesecake at 51 Cornmarket, we were surprised to see another version in the trio of desserts at Vikki’s. This one though was totally different, done individually (while the 51 is part of a full cake), and served with a spiced rum caramel sauce, soaked up by a topping of raisins. Also gorgeous. Which one is the best? Hard to say but I will say it’s great to have them both! Certainly the cheesecake overshadowed the Vanilla Panna Cotta with poached pear which, in fairness, was another excellent dessert.

Quite a meal as Chef Kiely took us off piste and out of the routine. See the menu details here.  

Greenwich Café. Where New Kid On The Block Dermot Smoothly Settles In

Greenwich Café. 

Where New Kid On The Block Dermot Smoothly Settles In

There’s a mean Reuben on the menu at Greenwich these days. Chef and new owner Dermot O’Sullivan calls it “a taste of NYC on Caroline Street”. 

And his phrase also answers a question frequently put his way since he took over the former Idaho Café a few short weeks back.

The Greenwich refers to the famous “village", once offbeat now high-end, in New York, the centre of the city’s creative culture of the 1960s and where artists (Jackson Pollack for instance) and musicians (including Bob Dylan and the Clancy Brothers) did their thing. The new name has nothing to do with the Greenwich of mean time fame!

Dermot, as you may know, took over from the Jacobs (Mairéad and Richard) who had made Idaho one of the best-known and best cafés in the land. They have retained the brand and so Dermot had to find a new name and, like his predecessors here, looked west for inspiration!

And the new Greenwich is looking well. On a rare “day off” since the 25th of January takeover, Dermot took up the painting brushes and gave his Greenwich “a nice cosy warm olive green backdrop”. Some stunning @AlanHurleyArt paintings (including one of Michael D) will catch your eye as will the flowers on the curved counter and bright bunches of West Cork daffodils on the tables.

Welcome to Greenwich, a few yards from Patrick Street

Not too much change in the morning routine here as the salad leaves, freshly baked Arbutus and spiced beef are delivered to the door. And more colour with strikingly beautiful pink rhubarb (sourced from English Market) used for a topping on your porridge.

Not a porridge person? How about the Home-made Granola served with Greek yogurt and Berry Compote?

Regulars will be thrilled to see the Homemade Waffles retained on the menu. They, the waffles not the regulars, come with selection of toppings, including Chocolate sauce, Organic maple syrup and Butterscotch.

Fish Pie

You also have a couple of baps to choose from. Either a Crispy Irish Bacon and Sausage Flour Bap or a Crispy Bacon and Durrus Irish Farmhouse Cheese Melted Bap.

Lunch, if you wish, may begin with soup. Parsnip and Apple, Roasted Sweet Potato and Coconut, and Pea with Delicious Fresh Mint, have been among the early offerings and all  are served with Dermot's own wheaten bread baked that morning. We had a taste of that bread and it is excellent.

We were in for lunch and that takes me back to that Reuben. The spiced beef is from Tim Mulcahy’s Chicken Inn and is served with sauerkraut, Russian Dressing and Melted Monterey Jack, all served on Arbutus sourdough, and there’s also a small but excellent side salad. 

Thumbs up for that and also for our other main course, the Fish Pie, packed with fish from Pat O’Connell’s in the English Market. Bit of name-dropping there just to illustrate that local is high on the menu here.

The flowers on the curved counter share space with a colourful parade of tempting cakes, including Lemon and Almond, Red Velvet Cake, Coffee Cake, Caramel Squares, scones and more. 

Cake? Pic via Greenwich

We picked the Coffee and Walnut Cake, a very popular one and we could see why. Slices are generous here and we shared one along with a couple of cups of top notch coffee.

Quite a few weeks for Dermot and his friendly crew since the changeover on January 25th. Quite a lunch for we two! 

So all the best to Greenwich in the weeks and months ahead. I’m betting it just keeps getting better.