Film of the 2019 Vintage at Villa Maria. Isolation-friendly!

Check out how the 2019 Vintage went at Villa Maria, Marlborough, New Zealand, in this 80 minute film: Vintage 

Thanks to Leslie Williams who shared the link in his weekly wine column in the Irish Examiner. Anyone with any other isolation-friendly ideas, especially food and wine links, share to cork dot billy at gmail dot com and I'll put them up here.

Amuse Bouche

As they stood there, taking their leave of each other, the cheeses seemed to stink even more. They all seemed to stink together, in a foul cacophony: from the oppressiveness of the heavy Dutch cheeses and the gruyères to the sharp alkaline note of the olivet. From the cantal, Cheshire, and goat’s milk came the sound of the bassoon, punctuated by the sudden, share notes of the neufchâtels, the troyes, and the mont-d’ors. Then the smells went wild and became completely jumbled….. The stench rose and spread… a huge sickening mixture.

from The Belly of Paris by Emile Zola (1873). Translation by Brian Nelson (2007). Very Highly Recommended.

Hands On Fun during Roe and Co Whiskey Tour in Dublin’s Liberties.

Hands On Fun during Roe and Co

 Whiskey Tour in Dublin’s Liberties.

We are sitting in a rather plush room. The lights are dim.There is a covered box on the table in front each of us. Eventually we are invited to flip the lid. In the box are three closed containers, a tube of liquid, a glass of whiskey, and two sections, one with malted barley, the other with corn (maize).

On the word, I squeeze a few drops of whiskey from the tube on to a palm and then rub my hand together, and smell the result. Now we open the three containers and use the old nostrils again. No 1 is sweet; “from the fermentation” says our guide. No 2 looks and smells like caramel and coffee; “from the distillation”. No 3 looks and smells like a piece of clove rock; “spice, from the maturation”. The barley and corn (maize) are there because this whiskey is a blend of malted and grain (aged in Bourbon casks).

We finish by tasting from the glass in the box. All the elements have now come together in harmony and we enjoy. What is a bit unusual about the new Roe and Co whiskey is that its ABV is 45 degrees, up on the usual forty.

The Roe master blender, Caroline Martin (a Scot), whose original brief was “to create a modern Irish whiskey”, went through over a multiple prototypes before eventually settling on this one. Then, she consulted widely again with the country’s bar staff. And the message that came back was that this higher alcohol mix was just the job for cocktails! So there you are.

Douglas Fir, Caroline insisting this was “essential” to the success of her process and project, was used here instead of the usual stainless steel.

You get a fair bit of fun in this new Dublin and, soon afterwards, in a different and well equipped room we each are assembling our own cocktail under the guidance of Shane. Again we did a bit of tasting, this time getting to know, by tasting of course, the five tastes: sour, sweet, bitter, umami and salt. We had all the essentials in front us including the all important jigger (20ml and 40ml) and whiskey of course. Not over impressed with my effort at first. It did seem to improve after a few minutes but by then we were heading downstairs to the bar for another drink, either a whiskey or a another professional made cocktail!

Wall of whiskey

No sails now on this old windmill tower

So who is this Roe? George Roe & Co helped build the golden era of Irish whiskey - this area of the Liberties was known as the Golden Triangle -  in the 19th century. Their distillery at Thomas Street in Dublin extended over 17 acres and they were Ireland's largest exporter of whiskey. As neighbours for hundreds of years George Roe & Co and Guinness were the two biggest names at the heart of Dublin’s historic brewing and distilling quarter. 

And now it is Guinness (through Diageo) that have opened this Roe distillery on the site of an old powerhouse. Our tour was called the Power House Tour. The original Roe distillery closed in 1926 and now all that remains is the distillery windmill tower (known as St Patrick’s and visible from the tour) and a pear tree that flowers to this day. Indeed, Shane told us the old tree is still fruiting and it and the tower are used as a marketing motif. In addition, a part of the old power house has been retained and you’ll see it on the tour.

For our twenty two euro each, we were promised a personalised experience. There were just five guests - a maximum of 16 is permitted - so we did enjoy the stories plus the sensorial tasting and cocktail workshop exploring the flavour and taste profile and that signature serve in the Power House Bar. Only over 18s are allowed.

Cocktail time

You also get to see the distillery itself, mostly from an overhead walkway. It opened last year so the whiskey used in the current offering has been distilled elsewhere on the island. The three stills are named Vision, Virtue and Valour. The middle one, Virtue, has a slightly different configuration to the others and is a gift from sister company Gordon’s Gin. All very impressive and Caroline and her crew here are all looking forward to their first whiskey which should see the light of day in 2022.

If you want to find out more about the various tours, read here. 

By the way, the Power House Bar is open to the public on Friday nights when they’ll be dishing out signature Roe & Co cocktails, great tunes and good vibes. 

Also on this trip: 
Kilmainham Gaol

HIKE AND HERITAGE AT CAHERNANE HOUSE HOTEL, KILLARNEY

HIKE AND HERITAGE AT CAHERNANE HOUSE HOTEL,

 KILLARNEY, CO. KERRY (IRELAND)

Window view from Cahernane House

With the hope of better weather on the horizon and longer summer evenings ahead it’s time to get those walking shoes on and explore the great outdoors!  Cahernane House Hotel in Killarney, Co. Kerry (Ireland) is the perfect destination to explore the best attractions that Co. Kerry has to offer. With its stunning surroundings, elegant and cosy drawing rooms and homely interiors, this country house hotel is a real life, Irish ‘Downton Abbey’.

The Hike and Heritage package (from €255 per person sharing) includes a 2 night / 3-day experience at Cahernane House Hotel . The package incorporates the rich and interesting history of the stunning 19^th century, Cahernane House as well as giving guests the opportunity to explore the great outdoors including the nearby Killarney National Park and lakes.

This historical package will appeal to the culturally curious and includes breakfast each morning and two evening meals along with a drinks reception on arrival, a history tour of the house and complimentary use of bicycles. A two course meal on your first evening will be served in the Cellar Bar which is located deep in the heart of the Manor House. Before dinner, guests will be given a welcome drink and brought on an historic tour of Cahernane House.

The next day you will be given a packed lunch for your walk of Killarney National Park and walking maps of the area will be provided with advice given on the best route for your fitness level. Cream tea will be served at 4pm in the Drawing Room by the fire place or in the gardens (weather permitting) before guests return to their room to freshen up before dinner. Dinner on the second evening will be served in the multi-award winning 2 AA Rosette Herbert Restaurant.  Cahernane House Hotel is the perfect location to let history come alive and explore the best of Ireland’s landscape.

On the final day guests can make use of the complimentary bicycles provided by the hotel and cycle to Torc Waterfall or Ross Castle before they depart. Ross Castle sits on the edge of Killarney’s lower lake and was built by O’Donoghue Mór in the 15th century. Legend has it that O’Donoghue still exists in a deep sleep under the waters of Lough Leane. On the first morning of May every seven years he rises from the lake on his magnificent white horse and circles the lake before going back to rest. The story goes that anyone who catches a glimpse of him is guaranteed good luck for the rest of their lives.

Cahernane House itself is reminiscent of times gone by and the charm in which it was built upon in the 1800’s has never been lost despite the changeover of owner’s numerous times throughout its history. There are six main rooms on the ground floor of the property: the Atrium, the Pembroke Suite, the Herbert Restaurant, Drawing Room, Library and Reception. Each of these rooms contain historical artefacts and original antiques including items such as the Herbert Family Crest which is depicted above the front door of the hotel.

The house was originally built in 1877 by Henry Herbert and his wife Catherine. Many of the original pieces from the house remain in Cahernane House Hotel today, including the wooden staircase, the Killarney Davenport table in the foyer and the pillar caps in the lobby, which feature the first letters of each of Henry’s first four children’s names. His fifth child, Gwendolyn, was born the same year the house was built (August 1877) and the story goes that Gwendolyn’s ghost still roams the house on occasion!

Located just outside the centre of the thriving town of Killarney, the 48-bedroom Cahernane House Hotel is still far enough away from the hustle and bustle of Kerry’s major urban centre to offer a secluded and tranquil getaway. Situated on 6.4 acres of verdant grounds and on the edge of the Killarney National Park, the property offers a peaceful retreat from a busy world. Its neighbours include the magnificent Muckross Abbey, a 15^th century monastery and Muckross House which is the sister property of Cahernane House and was once the residence of Henry Herbert’s brother.

Set on the edge of Killarney National Park and lakes, the historic country house enjoys a tranquil location yet is just a twenty-minute walk into Killarney town itself. Built in 1877 the property has been extensively renovated by the owners, PREM Group who have spent over €7.8 million on an ambitious renewal programme. There are 12 bedrooms in the original Manor House, 28 in the Garden Wing and the former Coach House, once home to the horses and carriages of the Herbert family who built the house is now the setting for 8 new luxurious bedrooms.

PREM Group, also operate 38 properties throughout Ireland, Belgium, the Netherlands, France and the UK. The group is also renovating and extending some of its other properties including The Osprey Hotel, Naas, Co. Kildare and Tulfarris Hotel & Golf Resort, Blessington, Co. Wicklow.

For more details or to book the Hike and Heritage package now see www.cahernane.com or call Cahernane House Hotel on +353 (064) 6631895.

Kilmainham Gaol 1796-1924. So Many Tales. So Many Tears.

Kilmainham Gaol 1796-1924.

So Many Tales. So Many Tears.

The (more modern) East Wing

I am looking at a pair of spoons in a case with a glass cover. Just two spoons, a little bit bigger than tea spoons. They look, in the dim light, as if they are made of plastic, maybe (but more unlikely) of bone.There is a caption alongside. It explains that they were once used by inmates of the gaol, that they were made with horn so that they could not be sharpened and used as weapons or tools in an escape.

I am in the museum rooms of Kilmainham Gaol (opened in 1796, two years later Henry Joy McCracken became its first political prisoner). There is quite a lot to see here (over 10,000 objects have been donated). Quite a lot to read also. We have just completed the mid-morning prison tour. I must be thinking about lunch because, instead of reading all the details, I find myself selecting items to do with food.

Here, Joseph Plunkett and Grace Gifford married

One inmate is quoted: ‘One thing that struck me in Kilmainham was the semi-starved aspect which all the convicted prisoners presented. They seemed to be utterly dejected and weak, and unable to undergo any amount of physical fatigue… I do not think that we are entitled to enfeeble the bodies of prisoners in order to reform their minds.”

The quote is from none other than Charles Stewart Parnell. He was in fact a prisoner here but a first class one. He was treated very well indeed because he was an elected politician.

In the 1916 corridor

For many years, the jailers benefitted from the extraction of fees through the sale of food and drink. It was one of the perks of the job. You read much the same about some South American prisons today. By the late 1830s, the arbitrary regime under which the rich prisoner could dine in relative style while his penniless fellow inmate starved in miserable conditions was finally eliminated. Yet, Parnell was imprisoned in 1882 and lived in some style, even able to interact with visitors.

The Great Famine (1845-49) saw an explosion in the prison population. One reason was the introduction of the Vagrancy Act in 1847. Intended to clear the streets of the unsightly poor, its effect was to swamp the prisons with those found begging in the streets. At least in prison you had the “luxury” of a meagre but life-saving prison diet but there was a downside, the chance that you’d succumb to the disease ridden overcrowded conditions.

And then there’s that box of chocolate. In March 1921, a Black and Tan officer presented death row prisoner Thomas Whelan with the treat. In the hours before his execution (14th March 1921), Whelan sent the box to a young girl Alicia Mann (8) with a message that if he were reprieved they could eat them together, if not she could eat them herself. Alicia never opened the box.

A poignant story indeed. And this is one of the saddest tours. Very popular though and, even in off season, you will need to book. Our guide was Erin and she did a great job taking a bunch of multi-national visitors through the old gaol. Men, women and babies, even young children on their own (5-year old Matthew Rossiter, for example), were imprisoned here for often trivial offences.

It was only in the latter stages of its existence as a functioning prison that Kilmainham began to hold political prisoners in large numbers, those from the rising, from the War of Independence and then from the Civil War. One of the first places you visit is the chapel, the scene of the eleventh-hour wedding of Joseph Plunkett and Grace Gifford in May 1916.  Plunkett was executed just hours later and Grace would be back in a few years as a Civil War prisoner.

Here James Connolly died

The Stonebreakers’ Yard where the leaders of 1916 were shot is visited later. A cross marks the spot where most of them fell. But the already seriously injured James Connolly could not make the walk across the yard and so he was shot by the opposite wall. Tears are never far away here.

The most bitter tears though are reserved for the deaths of the Civil War, inflicted by Irishman on Irishman, not just in Kilmainham (which closed in 1924) but throughout the country. If you visit, make sure you read Peter Cassidy’s final letter to his mother. He and three 19 year olds were the first executions of the Civil War. Many more would follow.

Grace Gifford's Cell

While it may be tough going at times, a visit is highly recommended. There are some light notes too from our excellent guide, including at the end when she tells us with some relish that we are "free to go". Also, did you know that films such as The Italian Job, In the Name of the Father, and Michael Collins, were partly filmed here, also RTÉ’s Rebellion drama series, along with a U2 video?

Just a tip, if you are walking. If you come from Heuston Station, follow the signs for the Irish Museum of Modern Art. Go through the IMMA entrance and courtyard and then walk the avenue through the grounds and, when you exit through the castellated gates, you’ll find the gaol directly across the road. Go back the same way and you’ll find the excellent Kemp Sisters café in the basement of the IMMA where I enjoyed a lovely lunch!

If you are intending to go, even if you are unable to go, then you will benefit hugely from visiting the excellent website here. 

Also on this trip
Hands On Fun during Roe and Co Whiskey Tour

It’s Blas na hÉireann time – entries for the 2020 all-island food awards will open on 17th March!

It’s Blas na hÉireann time – entries for the 2020 all-island food awards will open on 17th March

Blas na hÉireann - the all-island food awards that recognise the very best Irish food and drink products, and the passionate people making  them

It’s the 13^th year of Blas na hÉireann, the Irish Food Awards, the largest blind-tasted food awards on the island of Ireland, designed to recognise and celebrate the very best Irish food and drink. Entry opens to producers across all categories of food and drink on March 17^th with the early bird discounted rate for entries running until 8^th April, before entries finally close on 25^th May.

“We have been told first hand that the Blas na hÉireann awards have a significant impact on any winner’s bottom line,” says Artie Clifford, Chairperson and founder of Blas na hÉireann, “whether it’s raising the profile of a producer’s product, or getting the attention of chefs, restaurants, retailers or general food lovers. The independent endorsement of a Blas award is a recognised quality guarantee that can help get a product onto the shelves of a particular retailer or onto a restaurant menu. It’s also always a huge boost for an individual producer, an appreciation for all their hard work and allows them to savour their achievements which they don’t often have time to do. The Blas na hÉireann awards event in Dingle each year has become an unmissable event allowing the general public, media and trade to meet, discover and appreciate some of the country’s best producers but, more importantly, it has become an opportunity for the Irish food community to come together and celebrate their successes.”

Winners are always the competition’s best ambassadors, something to which over a decade’s worth of small producers, farmers, growers, bakers and artisan food makers who have won a Blas award and proudly put the winner’s sticker on their product can attest. Research has shown that the Blas accreditation has the highest recognition among Irish consumers and having the award logo on products encourages shoppers to buy – it is a recognised guarantee of a top quality Irish product.

Supreme Champion 2016

A survey of over 100 past winners showed that 81% had seen an increase in sales after displaying the Blas na hÉireann sticker with 28% of those surveyed saying that they saw an increase in sales of over 20%. In the survey many winners noted the credibility that the awards gave to their products with one saying, “Since being awarded at Blas, we have seen our sales increase significantly online and in high profile visitor locations throughout Ireland and abroad.” Another winner surveyed found that a Blas award helped to build relationships with their customers, “I have found that the Blas Award has been great for communicating with my customers in the shop. They really recognise the value of the award and have faith in it and the other products which I stock which have the award logo on their packaging.”

These are exceptionally rigorously-judged awards, as Blas na hÉireann use an innovative blind-tasting judging system developed by Blas with the Food Science Dept of UCC and the University of Copenhagen that is now recognised as an industry gold standard worldwide. Products entered are blind-tasted, meaning that all packaging and identifying features are removed from products before being presented for judging, creating a level playing field for products from both large and small producers. Judges come from a range of food backgrounds from chefs to restaurateurs, academics, journalists, authors, food champions, caterers and enthusiastic home cooks.

The founding mission of Blas – establishing quality benchmarks for Irish produce on a level playing field – is strictly adhered to and measurably applied.

“In this our 13^th year of the Blas na hÉireann awards, our sector continues to become more innovative and exciting than ever,” says Artie Clifford, Chairperson and founder of Blas na hÉireann. “We aim to assist Irish producers to tell their stories by marking them out as special, and worth exploring. Winning a Blas award has been shown to work for our previous winners in bringing them to the attention of food-lovers both at home and abroad and we are looking forward to doing it all again for Blas na hÉireann 2020.”

Entries for Blas na hÉireann 2020 received online between 17^th March and 8^th of April are at the discounted early bird fee of €60 per entry (ex VAT). The full entry fee, applicable from 9^th April to 25^thMay is €75 per entry (ex VAT).

http://www.irishfoodawards.com

Often dubbed the Oscars of Irish food, Blas na hÉireann, the Irish Food Awards, are the largest food awards on the island, open to all 32 counties, with judging taking place during June and July, finalists notified in August, and finalist judging in Dingle, the home of the awards, in October. With workshops and masterclasses in Dingle, final Blas na hÉireann 2020 awards will be presented alongside producer networking events on 2^nd & 3^rd October during the Dingle Food Festival, always an unmissable event for food lovers.

Blas na hEireann 2020 Categories

1.    Bacon products a) Rasher b) Other bacon products 

2.    Beef (Value added) a) Fillet b) Sirloin/Striploin c) Ribeye d) Burger Style e) Roast f) Bone in g) Other

3.    Cold Meats, Cured Meat, Charcuterie a) Beef b) Ham c) Poultry d)Other

4.    Lamb (Value added) a) Lamb Prepared b) Lamb

5.    Other Meats (Value Added)

6.    Pork (Value added)                                                     

7.    Poultry (Value added) a) Chicken b) Chicken (Prepared) c) Duck & Other Poultry d) Turkey

8.    Puddings a) Black pudding b) White pudding

9.    Sausages a) Breakfast sausages b) Flavoured sausages c) Other Meat sausages

10. Dairy a) Butter b) Butter (Flavoured) c) Cream d) Cream(Fermented) e) Milk f) Milk (Other) g) Yoghurt (Flavoured) h)Yoghurt (Plain) 

11. Ice Cream & Sorbets a) IceCream b) Sorbets c) Frozen Yoghurts                     

12. Cheese a) Blue b) Goats c) Hard d) Hard (Added Flavour) e) Soft & Semi Soft

13. Seafood Products a) Cold Smoked b) Hot Smoked c) Prepared Fish d) Prepared Shellfish

14. Terrines/ Pates   a) Meat b) Seafood c) Vegetarian

15.  Savoury Pies/ Quiche

16.  Soups & Chowders a) Soups (Meat) & Chowders b) Soups – Vegetable

17.  Ready Meals & Prepared Foods (Hot) a) Fish b) Meat c) Sausage Rolls d) Stuffing e) Dough Based f) Vegetarian g) Potato

18. Ready Meals & Prepared Foods (Cold) a) Fish b) Meat c) Vegetarian    

19. Baby Food & Childrens Foods 

20. Bread a) Craft Bakers Soda Bread b) Craft Bakers Yeast Bread c) Sourdough

21. d) Packaged White Bread e) Packaged Bread (Not White)  

22. Traditional Irish Barm (Yeast) Brack

23. Sweet Dough Goods (Including Teabrack & Sweet Buns)

24. Morning Baked Goods (Including Baps, Teacakes & Scones)

25. Continental Style Breads (Including Brioche, Ciabatta, Focaccia, Bagels)

26. Pastries & Tarts a) Pastries (Inc Danish, Croissant, Pain Au Chocolate) b) Tarts

27. Dietary Specific Foods a) Dietary Specific Bread b) Dietary Specific Gluten Free Products & Ingredients c) Dietary Specific Gluten Free Baked Goods d) Dietary Specific - Other (Certification to verify product claim required)

28. Ready Mix Cakes & Breads a) Breads & Other Savoury Ready Mix b) Cakes & Other Sweet Ready Mix

29. Puddings & Desserts          

30. Cakes a) Chocolate b) Other c) Chocolate Biscuit                                            

31. Christmas Cakes & Puddings a) Christmas Cakes, Pies, Crumbles, Other b) Christmas Puddings

32. Biscuits/ Snacks Sweet a) Biscuits b) Other sweet snacks c) Popcorn Sweet

33. Chocolate a) Bars b) Collections c) Individual Chocolates

34. Confectionery

35. Breakfast Cereal  a) Granola b) Muesli c) Porridge & Cereals       

36. Savoury Sauces, Condiments & Pantry a) Chutney b) Dressings c) Hummus d) Jellies e) Mustard f) Oils g) Oils Flavoured h) Pesto i) Pickle j) Relish k) Salt l) Salt Flavoured m) Savoury Sauces & Dips (Egg Based) n) Savoury Sauces (Tomato Based) o) Savoury Sauces (Other) p) Seasonings q) Vinegars

37. Sweet Sauces, Preserves & Pantry a) Conserve b) Honey c) Marmalade d) Preserve e) Sweet Spreads f) Sweet sauces & Dips  

38. Savoury Snacks a) Crisps b) Popcorn c) Other

39. Hot Beverages a) Coffee b) Tea c) Other Hot Drinks                                                  

40. Non alcoholic Drinks a) Carbonated b) Cordials c) Fruit based d) Vegetable based

41. Spirits & Liqueurs a) Dark Spirits & Liqueurs b) White Spirits & Liqueurs                       

42. Beers a) Ale b) Beer & Lager c) Stout                                                                

43. Ciders a) Medium/Dry b) Sweet c) Special (such as sparkling)

44. Chef's Larder (Includes subcategory for Eggs) This should be an ingredients, specialist product or recipe staple which a chef would find to be a valuable part of their larder. This can include, but is not exclusive to catering/food service products